Tender: A Cook in His Vegetable PatchTender: A Cook in His Vegetable Patch
Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater
Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater
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by Nigel Slater","publishDate":1337646230,"status":"inherit","parent":43476,"modified":1337646230,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/Ripe-cover500.jpg","width":500,"height":698}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_43476":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43476","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43476","score":null,"sort":[1338908420000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","title":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater","publishDate":1338908420,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/Ripe-cover500.jpg\" alt=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" title=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" width=\"500\" height=\"698\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43546\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The white peaches have returned, the strawberries are perfect, and the season’s first pinky-red cherries are offering their teasing, tart promise of the darker and sweeter varieties to follow. Yes, just as our desire for winter’s citrus is waning, the new stone fruits and berries are arriving to brighten market tables and kitchen counters alike. I doubt that anyone bakes with the precious first rounds of summer fruit—the $4-a-half-pint raspberries, the $10-a-pound blueberries, the tight-fleshed, golf ball-sized nectarines. These are luxuries, eaten before they even make it to the fridge, scattered over ice cream or stirred into Greek yogurt and honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, though, we’ll have bounty to take for granted, and then Nigel Slater’s new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard\u003c/a>, will come in handy. This fat, handsome, persimmon-colored volume is a companion to Slater’s earlier cooking-and-gardening book, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">Tender: A Cook in His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a>. As you might guess from the title, \u003cem>Ripe\u003c/em> finds the British food writer and cookbook author moving from his backyard vegetable beds into the trees, vines, and canes that put a multitude of home-grown fruits and nuts onto his table. As in \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> Slater writes only about what he can grow in his particular 55-yard stretch of London soil, which means, perhaps disappointingly to Bay Area readers, no citrus, no almonds, no loquats, no pomegranates, persimmons, or avocados.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he has managed, surprisingly, to nurture both a grapevine and three fig trees, along with a host of very British treats—gooseberries, red, white, and black currants (all of which may take some sleuthing to track down even in our well-stocked farmers' markets), rhubarb, damson plums, elderberries, quinces, even the medlar, an odd, old fruit, common in Shakespeare’s day, now a rarity even in Britain. (The small, brown, apple-like fruit must be picked hard, then “bletted,” or left to soften until it has almost rotted. Slater admits to planting his “quaint, hopelessly crooked” medlar for the sheer mystery and romance of it. The tree has since rewarded him with gorgeous blossoming in spring, followed by just enough fruit to make a couple of jars of tart-sweet amber jelly, good with pork and game, in autumn.) His nuts are European ones: hazelnuts, of course, along with chestnuts and walnuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes, too, are very British: cozy plum crumbles, a myriad of baked apples, Victoria sponge, “messes” of crushed meringue, whipped cream and berries, gooseberry fool, summer pudding, even skillfully updated versions of centuries-old possets and syllabubs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a longtime food writer and former restaurant chef, Slater has a savvy savory palate that can dip into the herb-and-spice pairings of cuisines around the world and translate them, deliciously, into satisfying, boldly flavored dinners without seeming dilettantish. He pairs green salad with peaches and ham, and mackerel with gooseberry sauce. Guinea fowl is roasted with figs, a Chinese-style pork roast is glazed with plum-ginger sauce, and apples accent pheasant, duck, blood sausage, and rabbit. Turkey gets a stuffing of apricots and pistachio; pork goes with peach salsa, blackberry-and-apple sauce, pears, quinces, plums, even rhubarb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to sweets, however, he’s a home cook, still with an English schoolboy’s love of the crumbly and the comforting. Not for Slater are the more contemporary, multi-layered (and quite delectable) concoctions found in books like pastry chef David Lebovitz’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ripe-Dessert-Outstanding-Fruit-Inside-Alongside/dp/0066212464\">Ripe for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead Slater, growing preciously small backyard amounts, keeps his preparations full-flavored and unfussy. There are rough-hewn galettes, juicy deep-dish pies, and nearly two dozen easy, buttery, not-too-sweet cakes, weighted with nuts and fruits, gently spiced, equally good as a breakfast nibble, a teatime pick-me-up, or a family dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fig chapter has five variations on figs baked with wine, sugar, and spices, while berries are paired with cream in everything from tiramisu and panna cotta to a raspberry-ripple yogurt fool and a frozen ice of raspberries and cream. Of a peach melba-ish summer fruit sundae (peaches poached in vanilla syrup, served over ice cream and drenched in raspberry-red currant puree) he writes simply, “Oh, joy of joys, such greedy bliss!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However much he may enjoy summer’s peaches, he saves his most finely wrought enthusiasm for the less obvious pleasures of the autumn and winter table--its apples and quinces, pears and walnuts. I cannot think of another food writer who has penned such rhapsodies in honor of the baked apple and its sweet, buttery-topped sister, the apple crumble. While many of the cold-weather, elegantly named heirloom varieties of apple (like D’Arcy Spice, Orleans Reinette, Ribston Pippin, and Cornish Gilliflower) that Slater espouses are rarely seen in the Bay Area, his enthusiasm should encourage you, come fall, to seek beyond the easy Fuji and Galas to the more complex, older apples like Esopus Spitzenburg, Ashmead’s Kernel, or Cox’s Orange Pippin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> however, the real reason to add Ripe to your cookbook shelf is Slater’s smart, supple prose and tart observations, which are at once lyrical, deeply felt, and irresistibly irreverent. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in his introduction, as he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There is a moment, sometime around the middle of September, when this garden, this diminutive hortus conclusus I have made in an 1820s London terrace, truly becomes the garden of my dreams. The leaves are turning from green to gold, amber, and rust, the last of the fruits hang crimson and smoky blue on the trees, the pumpkin-colored dahlias and Michaelmas daisies have collapsed like drunks across the gravel path. The garden darkens to the color of ginger cake, here and there a shot of saffron, brilliant ochre, or deepest crimson. The colors, I guess, of the Vatican at prayer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last berries, apples, and plums, wet and almost rotting from the late sun and autumn rain, lend a mellow, alcoholic scent to the space, like the dregs of an abandoned glass of wine. The garden is falling asleep with an air of damp tobacco and wood smoke, but it is still abundant too, with late blackberries, damsons, and a grapevine at breaking point. Each year I race to get to those blackberries before the feast of Michaelmas, when the devil is said to piss on them.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAsk your butcher to score the skin finely for this, as the crackling is essential. The first brief roasting at the higher temperature sets the crackling on the route to crispness. These ribs are not sweet and sticky like the ones in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries,\u003c/a> but lightly crisp and lip tingling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater, copyright (c) 2010, 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\" alt=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" title=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" width=\"400\" height=\"576\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ripe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa. Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 4 hours' marinating\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time: \u003c/strong> 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPork belly – 2 to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5kg), boned, skin intact and finely scored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rub:\u003cbr>\ngarlic – 3 cloves\u003cbr>\nlight soy sauce – 2 tablespoons\u003cbr>\npeanut oil – a tablespoon\u003cbr>\nsalt – 2 teaspoons\u003cbr>\ndried chile flakes – half a teaspoon\u003cbr>\nChinese five-spice powder – a slightly heaping teaspoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the peach salsa:\u003cbr>\ngreen onions – 2\u003cbr>\na small red chile\u003cbr>\npeaches – 3\u003cbr>\ncherry tomatoes – 8\u003cbr>\ncilantro – a small bunch\u003cbr>\njuice of 2 limes\u003cbr>\nolive oil – 3 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the pork in a china or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lower the heat to 400°F (200°C) and continue cooking for a further forty to fifty minutes, until the skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Make the salsa. Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"British food writer and passionate backyard gardener Nigel Slater is back, this time on the joys of homegrown fruit and nuts, with the newly issued American edition of Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard. Recipe for Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa included.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1338924806,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1483},"headData":{"title":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater | KQED","description":"British food writer and passionate backyard gardener Nigel Slater is back, this time on the joys of homegrown fruit and nuts, with the newly issued American edition of Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard. Recipe for Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa included.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater","datePublished":"2012-06-05T15:00:20.000Z","dateModified":"2012-06-05T19:33:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"43476 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43476","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/05/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater/","disqusTitle":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater","path":"/bayareabites/43476/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/Ripe-cover500.jpg\" alt=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" title=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" width=\"500\" height=\"698\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43546\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The white peaches have returned, the strawberries are perfect, and the season’s first pinky-red cherries are offering their teasing, tart promise of the darker and sweeter varieties to follow. Yes, just as our desire for winter’s citrus is waning, the new stone fruits and berries are arriving to brighten market tables and kitchen counters alike. I doubt that anyone bakes with the precious first rounds of summer fruit—the $4-a-half-pint raspberries, the $10-a-pound blueberries, the tight-fleshed, golf ball-sized nectarines. These are luxuries, eaten before they even make it to the fridge, scattered over ice cream or stirred into Greek yogurt and honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, though, we’ll have bounty to take for granted, and then Nigel Slater’s new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard\u003c/a>, will come in handy. This fat, handsome, persimmon-colored volume is a companion to Slater’s earlier cooking-and-gardening book, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">Tender: A Cook in His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a>. As you might guess from the title, \u003cem>Ripe\u003c/em> finds the British food writer and cookbook author moving from his backyard vegetable beds into the trees, vines, and canes that put a multitude of home-grown fruits and nuts onto his table. As in \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> Slater writes only about what he can grow in his particular 55-yard stretch of London soil, which means, perhaps disappointingly to Bay Area readers, no citrus, no almonds, no loquats, no pomegranates, persimmons, or avocados.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he has managed, surprisingly, to nurture both a grapevine and three fig trees, along with a host of very British treats—gooseberries, red, white, and black currants (all of which may take some sleuthing to track down even in our well-stocked farmers' markets), rhubarb, damson plums, elderberries, quinces, even the medlar, an odd, old fruit, common in Shakespeare’s day, now a rarity even in Britain. (The small, brown, apple-like fruit must be picked hard, then “bletted,” or left to soften until it has almost rotted. Slater admits to planting his “quaint, hopelessly crooked” medlar for the sheer mystery and romance of it. The tree has since rewarded him with gorgeous blossoming in spring, followed by just enough fruit to make a couple of jars of tart-sweet amber jelly, good with pork and game, in autumn.) His nuts are European ones: hazelnuts, of course, along with chestnuts and walnuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes, too, are very British: cozy plum crumbles, a myriad of baked apples, Victoria sponge, “messes” of crushed meringue, whipped cream and berries, gooseberry fool, summer pudding, even skillfully updated versions of centuries-old possets and syllabubs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a longtime food writer and former restaurant chef, Slater has a savvy savory palate that can dip into the herb-and-spice pairings of cuisines around the world and translate them, deliciously, into satisfying, boldly flavored dinners without seeming dilettantish. He pairs green salad with peaches and ham, and mackerel with gooseberry sauce. Guinea fowl is roasted with figs, a Chinese-style pork roast is glazed with plum-ginger sauce, and apples accent pheasant, duck, blood sausage, and rabbit. Turkey gets a stuffing of apricots and pistachio; pork goes with peach salsa, blackberry-and-apple sauce, pears, quinces, plums, even rhubarb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to sweets, however, he’s a home cook, still with an English schoolboy’s love of the crumbly and the comforting. Not for Slater are the more contemporary, multi-layered (and quite delectable) concoctions found in books like pastry chef David Lebovitz’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ripe-Dessert-Outstanding-Fruit-Inside-Alongside/dp/0066212464\">Ripe for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead Slater, growing preciously small backyard amounts, keeps his preparations full-flavored and unfussy. There are rough-hewn galettes, juicy deep-dish pies, and nearly two dozen easy, buttery, not-too-sweet cakes, weighted with nuts and fruits, gently spiced, equally good as a breakfast nibble, a teatime pick-me-up, or a family dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fig chapter has five variations on figs baked with wine, sugar, and spices, while berries are paired with cream in everything from tiramisu and panna cotta to a raspberry-ripple yogurt fool and a frozen ice of raspberries and cream. Of a peach melba-ish summer fruit sundae (peaches poached in vanilla syrup, served over ice cream and drenched in raspberry-red currant puree) he writes simply, “Oh, joy of joys, such greedy bliss!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However much he may enjoy summer’s peaches, he saves his most finely wrought enthusiasm for the less obvious pleasures of the autumn and winter table--its apples and quinces, pears and walnuts. I cannot think of another food writer who has penned such rhapsodies in honor of the baked apple and its sweet, buttery-topped sister, the apple crumble. While many of the cold-weather, elegantly named heirloom varieties of apple (like D’Arcy Spice, Orleans Reinette, Ribston Pippin, and Cornish Gilliflower) that Slater espouses are rarely seen in the Bay Area, his enthusiasm should encourage you, come fall, to seek beyond the easy Fuji and Galas to the more complex, older apples like Esopus Spitzenburg, Ashmead’s Kernel, or Cox’s Orange Pippin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> however, the real reason to add Ripe to your cookbook shelf is Slater’s smart, supple prose and tart observations, which are at once lyrical, deeply felt, and irresistibly irreverent. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in his introduction, as he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There is a moment, sometime around the middle of September, when this garden, this diminutive hortus conclusus I have made in an 1820s London terrace, truly becomes the garden of my dreams. The leaves are turning from green to gold, amber, and rust, the last of the fruits hang crimson and smoky blue on the trees, the pumpkin-colored dahlias and Michaelmas daisies have collapsed like drunks across the gravel path. The garden darkens to the color of ginger cake, here and there a shot of saffron, brilliant ochre, or deepest crimson. The colors, I guess, of the Vatican at prayer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last berries, apples, and plums, wet and almost rotting from the late sun and autumn rain, lend a mellow, alcoholic scent to the space, like the dregs of an abandoned glass of wine. The garden is falling asleep with an air of damp tobacco and wood smoke, but it is still abundant too, with late blackberries, damsons, and a grapevine at breaking point. Each year I race to get to those blackberries before the feast of Michaelmas, when the devil is said to piss on them.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAsk your butcher to score the skin finely for this, as the crackling is essential. The first brief roasting at the higher temperature sets the crackling on the route to crispness. These ribs are not sweet and sticky like the ones in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries,\u003c/a> but lightly crisp and lip tingling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater, copyright (c) 2010, 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\" alt=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" title=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" width=\"400\" height=\"576\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ripe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa. Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 4 hours' marinating\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time: \u003c/strong> 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPork belly – 2 to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5kg), boned, skin intact and finely scored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rub:\u003cbr>\ngarlic – 3 cloves\u003cbr>\nlight soy sauce – 2 tablespoons\u003cbr>\npeanut oil – a tablespoon\u003cbr>\nsalt – 2 teaspoons\u003cbr>\ndried chile flakes – half a teaspoon\u003cbr>\nChinese five-spice powder – a slightly heaping teaspoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the peach salsa:\u003cbr>\ngreen onions – 2\u003cbr>\na small red chile\u003cbr>\npeaches – 3\u003cbr>\ncherry tomatoes – 8\u003cbr>\ncilantro – a small bunch\u003cbr>\njuice of 2 limes\u003cbr>\nolive oil – 3 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the pork in a china or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lower the heat to 400°F (200°C) and continue cooking for a further forty to fifty minutes, until the skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Make the salsa. Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43476/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_1448","bayareabites_244","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_343","bayareabites_9783","bayareabites_10455"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43546","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_27708":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_27708","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"27708","score":null,"sort":[1306087812000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","title":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater","publishDate":1306087812,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"British food writer Nigel Slater goes back to the garden in his new book, \u003cem>Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/em>. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1337646440,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1009},"headData":{"title":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater | KQED","description":"British food writer Nigel Slater goes back to the garden in his new book, Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater","datePublished":"2011-05-22T18:10:12.000Z","dateModified":"2012-05-22T00:27:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"27708 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=27708","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/","disqusTitle":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater","path":"/bayareabites/27708/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/27708/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_1448","bayareabites_1050","bayareabites_1601","bayareabites_201","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_9307","bayareabites_1260","bayareabites_10455","bayareabites_2055"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Fresh-Air-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Here-And-Now-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this","airtime":"SUN 7:30pm-8pm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/how-i-built-this","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/How-I-Built-This-p910896/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510313/podcast.xml"}},"inside-europe":{"id":"inside-europe","title":"Inside Europe","info":"Inside Europe, a one-hour weekly news magazine hosted by Helen Seeney and Keith Walker, explores the topical issues shaping the continent. No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Inside-Europe-Podcast-Tile-300x300-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. Download Chris’s Song of the Week plus other highlights from the broadcast. Produced by American Public Media.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-8pm, SUN 11am-1pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Live-From-Here-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.livefromhere.org/","meta":{"site":"arts","source":"american public media"},"link":"/radio/program/live-from-here-highlights","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1167173941","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Live-from-Here-Highlights-p921744/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/a-prairie-home-companion-highlights/rss/rss"}},"marketplace":{"id":"marketplace","title":"Marketplace","info":"Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.","airtime":"MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.marketplace.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"American Public Media"},"link":"/radio/program/marketplace","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=201853034&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/APM-Marketplace-p88/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"}},"mindshift":{"id":"mindshift","title":"MindShift","tagline":"A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids","info":"The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. 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