Farm Fresh? Natural? Eggs Not Always What They're Cracked Up To Be
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Photo: Christopher Paquette/Flickr ","credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/eggs.jpg","width":700,"height":411}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_bayareabites_91418":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_91418","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_91418","name":"Anders Kelto","isLoading":false},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_91418":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_91418","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"91418","score":null,"sort":[1419355910000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-theyre-cracked-up-to-be","title":"Farm Fresh? Natural? Eggs Not Always What They're Cracked Up To Be","publishDate":1419355910,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91423\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Free-range eggs from Pennypack Farm in Pennsylvania. Photo: Christopher Paquette/Flickr \" width=\"700\" height=\"411\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91423\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Free-range eggs from Pennypack Farm in Pennsylvania. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/chpaquette/3541346092\" target=\"_blank\">Christopher Paquette/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348740555/anders-kelto\" target=\"_blank\">Anders Kelto\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/23/370377902/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-they-re-cracked-up-to-be\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (12/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're in the supermarket gathering ingredients for eggnog and a Christmas Bundt cake, and you're staring at a wall of egg cartons. They're plastered with terms that all sound pretty wonderful: All-Natural, Cage-Free, Free-Range, Farm Fresh, Organic, No Hormones, Omega-3 and so on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet the longer you stare at them, the more confused you become. You are tired and hungry, so you just grab the cheapest one – or the one with the most adorable chicken illustration – and head for the checkout line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is what I've been doing ever since I moved back to U.S. five months ago after four years abroad. Then I finally cracked. It was time to figure out what all this egg jargon actually means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the result. Consider it a glossary for the wannabe informed egg buyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farm Fresh\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Your friendly local farmer rises at dawn to harvest a dozen (still warm) eggs, and puts them into this egg carton, which is rushed to your local store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>\"It literally means nothing,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.humanesociety.org/about/leadership/executive_staff/paul_shapiro.html\">Paul Shapiro\u003c/a>, vice president of the Humane Society of the U.S., and an expert on commercial egg production. He says the term is probably meant to conjure up a favorable image in the consumer's mind, but it has no substance whatsoever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Natural\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens eating a \"natural\" diet and doing what chickens, you know, naturally do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Once again, this phrase has no real meaning. Shapiro says it's an ironic term, too, \"because [conventional chickens] are raised in the least natural conditions imaginable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, let's pause for a minute. How exactly \u003cem>are\u003c/em> most eggs in the U.S. produced?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www2.sustainableeggcoalition.org/research\" target=\"_blank\">Coalition for Sustainable Egg Supply,\u003c/a> a group that includes commercial egg producers, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and several universities, 95 percent of eggs in the U.S. come from chickens raised in something called battery cages. These cages house anywhere from four to 12 birds, giving each bird roughly 67 square inches of floor space (that's about the size of an iPad).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come Jan. 1, 2015, though, eggs sold in California will have to come from chickens enjoying at least 116 square inches of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cages are stacked in long rows, inside massive barns that usually house tens of thousands of birds. They're typically fed a mixture of corn and feed made from animal byproducts. Watch a video of one such facility:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThLEXBV6HW8]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial egg producers note that this method of production is safe and economical. It's what keeps egg prices down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many animal welfare advocates believe these battery cage facilities are inhumane. \"The birds never go outside, are unable to spread their wings, and are essentially immobilized for their entire lives,\" says Shapiro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ethics aside, this is by far the most common method of egg production. So unless a label tells you otherwise, you can assume this is what you're buying – even if it's labeled \"Farm Fresh\" or \"All Natural.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cage-Free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/cage-free-eggs_enl-95148fe1292f34b31ff12caf4efab295d73d65e6-e1419355087426.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/cage-free-eggs_enl-95148fe1292f34b31ff12caf4efab295d73d65e6-e1419355087426.jpg\" alt=\"Cage-free eggs for sale in 2008 in Knoxville, Tenn. Photo: Joel Kramer/Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91419\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cage-free eggs for sale in 2008 in Knoxville, Tenn. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/75001512@N00/2480673724/in/photolist-4Md6SC-8SaHPb-5ZJuBd-5ZJvqC-5ZEhH8-5ZEhvZ-5ZEhhz-5ZJuqL-6u8XJm-a242Fq-6FPuZ-8d7f4s-5zenda-g1KQ9p-g1KZ7p-g1KHa3-5ZEgFc-8u1KXR-8d7fkN-7yBmhb\" target=\"_blank\">Joel Kramer/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens happily wandering around a big red barn, pecking at corn kernels on a hay-covered floor — like the feeding farm I used to visit with my grandma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Exactly what it sounds like: The hens don't live in cages. But they don't live in bucolic red barns, either. They usually live in aviaries: massive industrial barns that house thousands of birds. Each bird has, on average, one square foot of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shapiro and other animal welfare advocates believe cage-free birds are better off than their caged counterparts. \"They're not exactly living on Old McDonald's farm, but they're able to walk around, perch, lay their eggs in a nest and spread their wings – all important natural behaviors,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the science around the health of cage-free birds is less clear. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ans.msu.edu/people/dr_janice_swanson\" target=\"_blank\">Janice Swanson\u003c/a>, an animal scientist at Michigan State University, has been leading a three-year \u003ca href=\"http://www2.sustainableeggcoalition.org/\" target=\"_blank\">study\u003c/a> of egg production techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says cage-free birds have more feathers and stronger bones and exhibit more natural behaviors. But crowded aviaries also come with risks: reduced air quality, and twice the likelihood of dying. Over the course of their three-year study, less than 5 percent of birds in cages died, compared to more than 11 percent of cage-free birds. One of the most common causes of death was pecking by other chickens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Hormones\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What you might think it means: \u003c/em>These birds were spared injections of nasty hormones that might cause them to sprout hair in unusual places and render them unhealthy for us to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means\u003c/em>: This term is rather misleading, because it's illegal to give hormones to poultry, and no large-scale farms in the U.S. do so. It's like putting a label on a cereal box that says, \"No toxic waste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Antibiotics\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>These birds don't need antibiotics because they are healthy and clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Once again, this is a somewhat misleading term, because antibiotics are rarely used in the egg industry, says Shapiro. Chickens that are raised for their meat, on the other hand, do commonly get antibiotics to fend off disease and increase animal growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Free-Range\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Hens playfully strolling and tumbling down green hills, home on the range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Free-range means cage-free plus \"access to the outdoors.\" But as Mark Kastel of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Cornucopia Institute\u003c/a> notes, this \"access\" typically means a few small doors that lead to a screened-in porch with cement, dirt, or a modicum of grass. And often, Kastel says, industrial fans that suck ammonia out of the building create \"hurricane winds\" through the small doorways, \"and the birds don't really want to walk through that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kastel claims the vast majority of free-range birds in commercial egg facilities never actually go outside. So in most cases, he says, free-range means the same thing as cage-free. Unlike poultry production, there's also no government oversight of the term \"free range\" when it comes to eggs, so companies can more or less interpret it as they see fit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Diet\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens enjoying a salad bar of grass, herbs, Brussels sprouts and kale – you know, their natural diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>This is perhaps the most confusing claim because chickens are not vegetarian. They're omnivores that, in the wild, get most of their protein from worms, grasshoppers and other insects. Hens that are fed a \"vegetarian diet\" are probably eating corn fortified with amino acids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Omega-3\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91420\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/omega-3-7e962e8e57d19662ccebca9fb38d4fc4192b567c-e1419355358593.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/omega-3-7e962e8e57d19662ccebca9fb38d4fc4192b567c-e1419355358593.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs labeled as organic and omega-3 for sale under the Fresh & Easy store brand on Oct. 14, 2014. Photo: SITS Girls/Flickr \" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91420\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs labeled as organic and omega-3 for sale under the Fresh & Easy store brand on Oct. 14, 2014. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/sitsgirls/15516345256\" target=\"_blank\">SITS Girls/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>The hens are fed a healthier diet, which leads to eggs rich in omega-3 acids, which make me smarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>The hens are probably given a bit of flax seed mixed in with their corn feed, possibly leading to higher levels of omega-3s in their eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens with hemp bracelets and yoga pants change the sign on their coop from \"Chicken Coop\" to \"Chicken Co-op,\" then begin composting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>\"Organic\" actually means something very specific, and egg producers who use it are subject to USDA regulation. Organic eggs must come from chickens that are free-range (cage-free plus access to the outdoors), fed organic feed (no synthetic pesticides) and receive no hormones or antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as was the case with \"free-range\" eggs, Kastel says \"organic\" eggs are usually coming from birds that live in crowded, industrial aviaries. His organization has created an \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/organic-egg-scorecard/\" target=\"_blank\">egg scorecard\u003c/a> that rates organic egg farms on a much wider variety of factors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasture-Raised\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/pasture-raised.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/pasture-raised.jpg\" alt=\"Shelly's Farm Fresh of Brentwood, Calif., sells pasture-raised eggs at farmers markets. Photo: CUESA/Flickr \" width=\"700\" height=\"524\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelly's Farm Fresh of Brentwood, Calif., sells pasture-raised eggs at farmers markets. Photo: CUESA/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens dashing between the legs of friendly cows and sheep on a sprawling pasture of peace and harmony.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>In terms of replicating chickens' natural environment and way of life, pasture-raised is pretty much the gold standard. Pasture-raised birds spend most of their life outdoors, with a fair amount of space plus access to a barn. Many are able to eat a diet of worms, insects and grass, along with corn feed (which may or may not be organic).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Kastel says there is a wide range of \"pasture-raised\" farms. Some have spacious fields; others are a bit crowded (some farms list the square footage per bird on their carton.) Some farms rotate their birds through different pastures to ensure a rich, varied diet; others keep the birds on the same plot of land. Some have trees and bushes, which he says chickens prefer; others are flat, wide-open fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Certified Humane / Animal Welfare Approved\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>The animals on these farms are treated humanely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>What constitutes \"humane\" treatment is subjective – and a topic of much debate. But the third-party auditing organizations \u003ca href=\"http://certifiedhumane.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Certified Humane\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://animalwelfareapproved.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Animal Welfare Approved\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/\" target=\"_blank\">American Humane Certified\u003c/a> assess egg farms according to a robust set of animal welfare guidelines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, where can I buy eggs with these labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cage-free: Most grocery stores. Growing consumer demand has led to wider availability in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Free-range, organic and pasture-raised: Many grocery stores, local food co-ops, farmers markets and community-supported agriculture programs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Egg cartons these days are often plastered with an array of terms that can confuse and even mislead consumers. Here's a glossary of carton jargon for the wannabe informed egg buyer.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1419355910,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":58,"wordCount":1694},"headData":{"title":"Farm Fresh? Natural? Eggs Not Always What They're Cracked Up To Be | KQED","description":"Egg cartons these days are often plastered with an array of terms that can confuse and even mislead consumers. Here's a glossary of carton jargon for the wannabe informed egg buyer.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Farm Fresh? Natural? Eggs Not Always What They're Cracked Up To Be","datePublished":"2014-12-23T17:31:50.000Z","dateModified":"2014-12-23T17:31:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"91418 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=91418","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/12/23/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-theyre-cracked-up-to-be/","disqusTitle":"Farm Fresh? Natural? Eggs Not Always What They're Cracked Up To Be","nprByline":"Anders Kelto","nprStoryId":"370377902","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=370377902&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/23/370377902/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-they-re-cracked-up-to-be?ft=3&f=370377902","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 23 Dec 2014 11:17:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 23 Dec 2014 10:56:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 23 Dec 2014 11:17:35 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/91418/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-theyre-cracked-up-to-be","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91423\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Free-range eggs from Pennypack Farm in Pennsylvania. Photo: Christopher Paquette/Flickr \" width=\"700\" height=\"411\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91423\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Free-range eggs from Pennypack Farm in Pennsylvania. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/chpaquette/3541346092\" target=\"_blank\">Christopher Paquette/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348740555/anders-kelto\" target=\"_blank\">Anders Kelto\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/23/370377902/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-they-re-cracked-up-to-be\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (12/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're in the supermarket gathering ingredients for eggnog and a Christmas Bundt cake, and you're staring at a wall of egg cartons. They're plastered with terms that all sound pretty wonderful: All-Natural, Cage-Free, Free-Range, Farm Fresh, Organic, No Hormones, Omega-3 and so on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet the longer you stare at them, the more confused you become. You are tired and hungry, so you just grab the cheapest one – or the one with the most adorable chicken illustration – and head for the checkout line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is what I've been doing ever since I moved back to U.S. five months ago after four years abroad. Then I finally cracked. It was time to figure out what all this egg jargon actually means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the result. Consider it a glossary for the wannabe informed egg buyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farm Fresh\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Your friendly local farmer rises at dawn to harvest a dozen (still warm) eggs, and puts them into this egg carton, which is rushed to your local store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>\"It literally means nothing,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.humanesociety.org/about/leadership/executive_staff/paul_shapiro.html\">Paul Shapiro\u003c/a>, vice president of the Humane Society of the U.S., and an expert on commercial egg production. He says the term is probably meant to conjure up a favorable image in the consumer's mind, but it has no substance whatsoever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Natural\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens eating a \"natural\" diet and doing what chickens, you know, naturally do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Once again, this phrase has no real meaning. Shapiro says it's an ironic term, too, \"because [conventional chickens] are raised in the least natural conditions imaginable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>OK, let's pause for a minute. How exactly \u003cem>are\u003c/em> most eggs in the U.S. produced?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www2.sustainableeggcoalition.org/research\" target=\"_blank\">Coalition for Sustainable Egg Supply,\u003c/a> a group that includes commercial egg producers, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and several universities, 95 percent of eggs in the U.S. come from chickens raised in something called battery cages. These cages house anywhere from four to 12 birds, giving each bird roughly 67 square inches of floor space (that's about the size of an iPad).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come Jan. 1, 2015, though, eggs sold in California will have to come from chickens enjoying at least 116 square inches of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cages are stacked in long rows, inside massive barns that usually house tens of thousands of birds. They're typically fed a mixture of corn and feed made from animal byproducts. Watch a video of one such facility:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/ThLEXBV6HW8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/ThLEXBV6HW8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial egg producers note that this method of production is safe and economical. It's what keeps egg prices down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many animal welfare advocates believe these battery cage facilities are inhumane. \"The birds never go outside, are unable to spread their wings, and are essentially immobilized for their entire lives,\" says Shapiro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ethics aside, this is by far the most common method of egg production. So unless a label tells you otherwise, you can assume this is what you're buying – even if it's labeled \"Farm Fresh\" or \"All Natural.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cage-Free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/cage-free-eggs_enl-95148fe1292f34b31ff12caf4efab295d73d65e6-e1419355087426.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/cage-free-eggs_enl-95148fe1292f34b31ff12caf4efab295d73d65e6-e1419355087426.jpg\" alt=\"Cage-free eggs for sale in 2008 in Knoxville, Tenn. Photo: Joel Kramer/Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91419\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cage-free eggs for sale in 2008 in Knoxville, Tenn. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/75001512@N00/2480673724/in/photolist-4Md6SC-8SaHPb-5ZJuBd-5ZJvqC-5ZEhH8-5ZEhvZ-5ZEhhz-5ZJuqL-6u8XJm-a242Fq-6FPuZ-8d7f4s-5zenda-g1KQ9p-g1KZ7p-g1KHa3-5ZEgFc-8u1KXR-8d7fkN-7yBmhb\" target=\"_blank\">Joel Kramer/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens happily wandering around a big red barn, pecking at corn kernels on a hay-covered floor — like the feeding farm I used to visit with my grandma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Exactly what it sounds like: The hens don't live in cages. But they don't live in bucolic red barns, either. They usually live in aviaries: massive industrial barns that house thousands of birds. Each bird has, on average, one square foot of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shapiro and other animal welfare advocates believe cage-free birds are better off than their caged counterparts. \"They're not exactly living on Old McDonald's farm, but they're able to walk around, perch, lay their eggs in a nest and spread their wings – all important natural behaviors,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the science around the health of cage-free birds is less clear. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ans.msu.edu/people/dr_janice_swanson\" target=\"_blank\">Janice Swanson\u003c/a>, an animal scientist at Michigan State University, has been leading a three-year \u003ca href=\"http://www2.sustainableeggcoalition.org/\" target=\"_blank\">study\u003c/a> of egg production techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says cage-free birds have more feathers and stronger bones and exhibit more natural behaviors. But crowded aviaries also come with risks: reduced air quality, and twice the likelihood of dying. Over the course of their three-year study, less than 5 percent of birds in cages died, compared to more than 11 percent of cage-free birds. One of the most common causes of death was pecking by other chickens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Hormones\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What you might think it means: \u003c/em>These birds were spared injections of nasty hormones that might cause them to sprout hair in unusual places and render them unhealthy for us to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means\u003c/em>: This term is rather misleading, because it's illegal to give hormones to poultry, and no large-scale farms in the U.S. do so. It's like putting a label on a cereal box that says, \"No toxic waste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>No Antibiotics\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>These birds don't need antibiotics because they are healthy and clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Once again, this is a somewhat misleading term, because antibiotics are rarely used in the egg industry, says Shapiro. Chickens that are raised for their meat, on the other hand, do commonly get antibiotics to fend off disease and increase animal growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Free-Range\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Hens playfully strolling and tumbling down green hills, home on the range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>Free-range means cage-free plus \"access to the outdoors.\" But as Mark Kastel of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Cornucopia Institute\u003c/a> notes, this \"access\" typically means a few small doors that lead to a screened-in porch with cement, dirt, or a modicum of grass. And often, Kastel says, industrial fans that suck ammonia out of the building create \"hurricane winds\" through the small doorways, \"and the birds don't really want to walk through that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kastel claims the vast majority of free-range birds in commercial egg facilities never actually go outside. So in most cases, he says, free-range means the same thing as cage-free. Unlike poultry production, there's also no government oversight of the term \"free range\" when it comes to eggs, so companies can more or less interpret it as they see fit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Diet\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens enjoying a salad bar of grass, herbs, Brussels sprouts and kale – you know, their natural diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>This is perhaps the most confusing claim because chickens are not vegetarian. They're omnivores that, in the wild, get most of their protein from worms, grasshoppers and other insects. Hens that are fed a \"vegetarian diet\" are probably eating corn fortified with amino acids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Omega-3\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91420\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/omega-3-7e962e8e57d19662ccebca9fb38d4fc4192b567c-e1419355358593.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/omega-3-7e962e8e57d19662ccebca9fb38d4fc4192b567c-e1419355358593.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs labeled as organic and omega-3 for sale under the Fresh & Easy store brand on Oct. 14, 2014. Photo: SITS Girls/Flickr \" width=\"1000\" height=\"749\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91420\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs labeled as organic and omega-3 for sale under the Fresh & Easy store brand on Oct. 14, 2014. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/sitsgirls/15516345256\" target=\"_blank\">SITS Girls/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>The hens are fed a healthier diet, which leads to eggs rich in omega-3 acids, which make me smarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>The hens are probably given a bit of flax seed mixed in with their corn feed, possibly leading to higher levels of omega-3s in their eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens with hemp bracelets and yoga pants change the sign on their coop from \"Chicken Coop\" to \"Chicken Co-op,\" then begin composting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>\"Organic\" actually means something very specific, and egg producers who use it are subject to USDA regulation. Organic eggs must come from chickens that are free-range (cage-free plus access to the outdoors), fed organic feed (no synthetic pesticides) and receive no hormones or antibiotics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as was the case with \"free-range\" eggs, Kastel says \"organic\" eggs are usually coming from birds that live in crowded, industrial aviaries. His organization has created an \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/organic-egg-scorecard/\" target=\"_blank\">egg scorecard\u003c/a> that rates organic egg farms on a much wider variety of factors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasture-Raised\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/pasture-raised.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/pasture-raised.jpg\" alt=\"Shelly's Farm Fresh of Brentwood, Calif., sells pasture-raised eggs at farmers markets. Photo: CUESA/Flickr \" width=\"700\" height=\"524\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelly's Farm Fresh of Brentwood, Calif., sells pasture-raised eggs at farmers markets. Photo: CUESA/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>Chickens dashing between the legs of friendly cows and sheep on a sprawling pasture of peace and harmony.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>In terms of replicating chickens' natural environment and way of life, pasture-raised is pretty much the gold standard. Pasture-raised birds spend most of their life outdoors, with a fair amount of space plus access to a barn. Many are able to eat a diet of worms, insects and grass, along with corn feed (which may or may not be organic).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Kastel says there is a wide range of \"pasture-raised\" farms. Some have spacious fields; others are a bit crowded (some farms list the square footage per bird on their carton.) Some farms rotate their birds through different pastures to ensure a rich, varied diet; others keep the birds on the same plot of land. Some have trees and bushes, which he says chickens prefer; others are flat, wide-open fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Certified Humane / Animal Welfare Approved\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What You Might Think It Means: \u003c/em>The animals on these farms are treated humanely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What It Actually Means: \u003c/em>What constitutes \"humane\" treatment is subjective – and a topic of much debate. But the third-party auditing organizations \u003ca href=\"http://certifiedhumane.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Certified Humane\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://animalwelfareapproved.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Animal Welfare Approved\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/\" target=\"_blank\">American Humane Certified\u003c/a> assess egg farms according to a robust set of animal welfare guidelines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, where can I buy eggs with these labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cage-free: Most grocery stores. Growing consumer demand has led to wider availability in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Free-range, organic and pasture-raised: Many grocery stores, local food co-ops, farmers markets and community-supported agriculture programs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/91418/farm-fresh-natural-eggs-not-always-what-theyre-cracked-up-to-be","authors":["byline_bayareabites_91418"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14031","bayareabites_11915","bayareabites_33","bayareabites_14030","bayareabites_13614","bayareabites_8902","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_91423","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_26840":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_26840","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"26840","score":null,"sort":[1303650018000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"petaluma-easter-brunch-and-farm-tour","title":"Petaluma Easter Brunch and Farm Tour","publishDate":1303650018,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\" title=\"Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26978\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy Easter!\u003c/strong> And where better to spend this egg-centric holiday than Petaluma, land of butter & eggs? This pretty Sonoma town is worth a drive anytime, especially now while the surrounding hills are green and the cows contented. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start your Sunday with brunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dellafattoria.com\">Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\u003c/a>. If you shop at the Ferry Plaza or Marin County farmers' markets, you've probably ogled Della Fattoria's big brown loaves many a time as you try to choose that week's purchase: pumpkin-seed or polenta? Meyer lemon-rosemary (my favorite) or olive? A square Pullman loaf for slicing and toasting, or a crunchy-crusted epi to rip and dunk? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the heart of Della Fattoria's operation is a farm and bakery, where their breads are baked in wood-fired ovens. The farm doubles as a site for outdoor, communal \"ranch dinners\"; there's also a small cottage available for rent by the week or by the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/menu.jpg\" alt=\"Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\" title=\"Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26958\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In downtown Petaluma, Della Fattoria runs a bakery-cafe that serves breakfast and lunch 7 days a week, plus dinner on Fridays. The menu shifts a little with inspiration and the seasons, but farm eggs, local meats, and bakery products are always front and center. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/eggs-benedict.jpg\" alt=\"Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\" title=\"Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26959\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery & Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, you'll find eggs bennie (eggs Benedict), of course, made with poached ranch eggs, ham, and spring asparagus under a cloak of hollandaise sauce over husky whole-grain toast. Creamy polenta comes topped 3 ways: with braised artichokes, with Italian-style meatballs, or with asparagus, a poached ranch egg, and some rosettes of proscuitto, a lovely, luxurious way to start the day. Bigger appetites might start with fruit salad bathed in brown sugar and champagne, followed by scalloped potatoes with eggs and black-pig bacon, biscuits in gravy with maple-pecan sausage and poached eggs, or a hot pressed ham-and-Gruyere sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The room is high-ceilinged with walls the color of terra cotta and two long communal tables in the center, plus five smaller tables against the walls. Bouquets of sweet peas and ranunculus add a bright splash of color to each table, where diners share newspapers while kids gnaw on house-baked bagels. At the back is a pastry counter filled with croissants, bear claws, cookies, and tarts, plus a wall of tempting breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy yourself, sip that perfect cappuccino, but don't linger too long; it's time to take a scenic five-mile drive out of town, along meandering, bumpy but beautiful I Street, past horses, cows, and California poppy-studded green hills to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tarafirmafarms.com\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>. If you're a farmers'-market shopper, you've probably been handed a flyer advertising their pasture-raised meat CSA program and weekend farm tours. Every weekend, from 10am-3pm, owners Craig and Tara Smith do on-the-hour walks around their property, where they're raising pigs, beef cattle, and chickens for both meat and eggs. (There's also a small market garden, three very friendly pet goats, and Roland, the farm dog.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Craig and Tara started the farm in 2009, raising about 40 head of pasture-raised cattle who move around the farm daily, grazing on three to five acres a day. (Craig still has his day job as the owner of a large long-term-care insurance company; Tara left her job at the same company and now does much of the day-to-day farm management.) They gather about 500 eggs a day from some 700 hens, all of whom spend their days out in the fields, scratching, grazing, pecking, and laying fertile eggs of all sizes and colors. Staunch proponents of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polyfacefarms.com\">Joel Salatin\u003c/a> method, they practice rotational grazing for all their animals. \"Everything is always on the move,\" said Craig, noting that adopting this system made \"a huge difference\" in revitalizing what had been worn-out, heavily overgrazed land. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\" title=\"Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26977\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After meeting Olivia the sow and her 12 adorable, two-week-old pink-and-black piglets, we walked up to one of the chicken tractors, a shed on wheels kitted out with nesting boxes and secure predator-proof roosts for nighttime. The chickens are busy earning their keep: every straw-lined nesting box we peered into held a clutch of three or four still-warm eggs. It's prime egg-laying time right now, said Craig, as the days get longer and warmer after winter's molting season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/pigs.jpg\" alt=\"Olivia the sow and her piglets\" title=\"Olivia the sow and her piglets\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26979\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Olivia the sow and her piglets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pointing out the pond stocked with fish (catfish and large-mouthed bass, for catch-and-release fishing) and encouraging everyone to come back for a hike, Craig said, \"We want all our members to feel like this is their farm. We really want to help people understand where their food comes from.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 80% of the farm's production is sold through its CSA program, which offers both meat and veggie shares; members can pick up boxes at the farm or through one of its 12 drop points between Santa Rosa and San Francisco. After the tour, visitors can browse through the small farm store, where fresh eggs and a small area of produce is on display, featuring a mixture of farm vegetables and produce from County Line, a nearby organic farm. But those in the know head straight for the freezer, where the farm's beef, chicken, and pork are packaged for sale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for me, I'm happy to go home with a box of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/04/eggs-for-easter\">souffle-ready eggs\u003c/a>, perfect alongside some Della Fattoria toast. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dellafattoria.com/\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a> (The Cafe)\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Della+Fattoria+Downtown+(The+Cafe)+141+Petaluma+Boulevard+North+Petaluma,+CA+&aq=&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=37.052328,66.533203&ie=UTF8&hq=Della+Fattoria+Downtown+(The+Cafe)&hnear=141+Petaluma+Blvd+N,+Petaluma,+California+94952&ll=38.235349,-122.641025&spn=0.008983,0.016243&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n141 Petaluma Boulevard North\u003cbr>\nPetaluma, CA\u003cbr>\nPhone: (707) 763-0161\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu & Sat: 6am-3pm, Fri: 6am-9pm, Sun: 9am-3pm\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/dellafattoria\">@DellaFattoria\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/dellafattoria\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tarafirmafarms.com/\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Terra+firma+farms+3796+I+Street,+Ext+Petaluma,+CA++94952&aq=&sll=38.235349,-122.641025&sspn=0.008983,0.016243&ie=UTF8&hq=Terra+firma+farms+3796+I+Street,+Ext&hnear=Petaluma,+Sonoma,+California&ll=38.194212,-122.634201&spn=0.143816,0.259895&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3796 I Street, Ext\u003cbr>\nPetaluma, CA 94952\u003cbr>\nPhone: (707) 765-1202\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/TaraFirmaFarms\">@TaraFirmaFarms\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TaraFirmaFarms\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Take an Easter Sunday drive to Petaluma, land of butter and eggs, for brunch at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe and a chicken-petting tour of Tara Firma Farms. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1307988381,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":999},"headData":{"title":"Petaluma Easter Brunch and Farm Tour | KQED","description":"Take an Easter Sunday drive to Petaluma, land of butter and eggs, for brunch at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe and a chicken-petting tour of Tara Firma Farms. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Petaluma Easter Brunch and Farm Tour","datePublished":"2011-04-24T13:00:18.000Z","dateModified":"2011-06-13T18:06:21.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"26840 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=26840","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/04/24/petaluma-easter-brunch-and-farm-tour/","disqusTitle":"Petaluma Easter Brunch and Farm Tour","path":"/bayareabites/26840/petaluma-easter-brunch-and-farm-tour","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\" title=\"Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26978\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs from Tara Firma Farms\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy Easter!\u003c/strong> And where better to spend this egg-centric holiday than Petaluma, land of butter & eggs? This pretty Sonoma town is worth a drive anytime, especially now while the surrounding hills are green and the cows contented. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start your Sunday with brunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dellafattoria.com\">Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\u003c/a>. If you shop at the Ferry Plaza or Marin County farmers' markets, you've probably ogled Della Fattoria's big brown loaves many a time as you try to choose that week's purchase: pumpkin-seed or polenta? Meyer lemon-rosemary (my favorite) or olive? A square Pullman loaf for slicing and toasting, or a crunchy-crusted epi to rip and dunk? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the heart of Della Fattoria's operation is a farm and bakery, where their breads are baked in wood-fired ovens. The farm doubles as a site for outdoor, communal \"ranch dinners\"; there's also a small cottage available for rent by the week or by the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/menu.jpg\" alt=\"Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\" title=\"Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26958\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Easter brunch menu at Della Fattoria\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In downtown Petaluma, Della Fattoria runs a bakery-cafe that serves breakfast and lunch 7 days a week, plus dinner on Fridays. The menu shifts a little with inspiration and the seasons, but farm eggs, local meats, and bakery products are always front and center. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/eggs-benedict.jpg\" alt=\"Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\" title=\"Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery and Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26959\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Polenta, asparagus, and egg at Della Fattoria Bakery & Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Sunday, you'll find eggs bennie (eggs Benedict), of course, made with poached ranch eggs, ham, and spring asparagus under a cloak of hollandaise sauce over husky whole-grain toast. Creamy polenta comes topped 3 ways: with braised artichokes, with Italian-style meatballs, or with asparagus, a poached ranch egg, and some rosettes of proscuitto, a lovely, luxurious way to start the day. Bigger appetites might start with fruit salad bathed in brown sugar and champagne, followed by scalloped potatoes with eggs and black-pig bacon, biscuits in gravy with maple-pecan sausage and poached eggs, or a hot pressed ham-and-Gruyere sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The room is high-ceilinged with walls the color of terra cotta and two long communal tables in the center, plus five smaller tables against the walls. Bouquets of sweet peas and ranunculus add a bright splash of color to each table, where diners share newspapers while kids gnaw on house-baked bagels. At the back is a pastry counter filled with croissants, bear claws, cookies, and tarts, plus a wall of tempting breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy yourself, sip that perfect cappuccino, but don't linger too long; it's time to take a scenic five-mile drive out of town, along meandering, bumpy but beautiful I Street, past horses, cows, and California poppy-studded green hills to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tarafirmafarms.com\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>. If you're a farmers'-market shopper, you've probably been handed a flyer advertising their pasture-raised meat CSA program and weekend farm tours. Every weekend, from 10am-3pm, owners Craig and Tara Smith do on-the-hour walks around their property, where they're raising pigs, beef cattle, and chickens for both meat and eggs. (There's also a small market garden, three very friendly pet goats, and Roland, the farm dog.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Craig and Tara started the farm in 2009, raising about 40 head of pasture-raised cattle who move around the farm daily, grazing on three to five acres a day. (Craig still has his day job as the owner of a large long-term-care insurance company; Tara left her job at the same company and now does much of the day-to-day farm management.) They gather about 500 eggs a day from some 700 hens, all of whom spend their days out in the fields, scratching, grazing, pecking, and laying fertile eggs of all sizes and colors. Staunch proponents of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polyfacefarms.com\">Joel Salatin\u003c/a> method, they practice rotational grazing for all their animals. \"Everything is always on the move,\" said Craig, noting that adopting this system made \"a huge difference\" in revitalizing what had been worn-out, heavily overgrazed land. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\" title=\"Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26977\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chicken at Tara Firma Farms\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After meeting Olivia the sow and her 12 adorable, two-week-old pink-and-black piglets, we walked up to one of the chicken tractors, a shed on wheels kitted out with nesting boxes and secure predator-proof roosts for nighttime. The chickens are busy earning their keep: every straw-lined nesting box we peered into held a clutch of three or four still-warm eggs. It's prime egg-laying time right now, said Craig, as the days get longer and warmer after winter's molting season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/pigs.jpg\" alt=\"Olivia the sow and her piglets\" title=\"Olivia the sow and her piglets\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-26979\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Olivia the sow and her piglets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pointing out the pond stocked with fish (catfish and large-mouthed bass, for catch-and-release fishing) and encouraging everyone to come back for a hike, Craig said, \"We want all our members to feel like this is their farm. We really want to help people understand where their food comes from.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 80% of the farm's production is sold through its CSA program, which offers both meat and veggie shares; members can pick up boxes at the farm or through one of its 12 drop points between Santa Rosa and San Francisco. After the tour, visitors can browse through the small farm store, where fresh eggs and a small area of produce is on display, featuring a mixture of farm vegetables and produce from County Line, a nearby organic farm. But those in the know head straight for the freezer, where the farm's beef, chicken, and pork are packaged for sale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for me, I'm happy to go home with a box of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/04/eggs-for-easter\">souffle-ready eggs\u003c/a>, perfect alongside some Della Fattoria toast. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dellafattoria.com/\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a> (The Cafe)\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Della+Fattoria+Downtown+(The+Cafe)+141+Petaluma+Boulevard+North+Petaluma,+CA+&aq=&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=37.052328,66.533203&ie=UTF8&hq=Della+Fattoria+Downtown+(The+Cafe)&hnear=141+Petaluma+Blvd+N,+Petaluma,+California+94952&ll=38.235349,-122.641025&spn=0.008983,0.016243&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n141 Petaluma Boulevard North\u003cbr>\nPetaluma, CA\u003cbr>\nPhone: (707) 763-0161\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu & Sat: 6am-3pm, Fri: 6am-9pm, Sun: 9am-3pm\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/dellafattoria\">@DellaFattoria\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/dellafattoria\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tarafirmafarms.com/\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Terra+firma+farms+3796+I+Street,+Ext+Petaluma,+CA++94952&aq=&sll=38.235349,-122.641025&sspn=0.008983,0.016243&ie=UTF8&hq=Terra+firma+farms+3796+I+Street,+Ext&hnear=Petaluma,+Sonoma,+California&ll=38.194212,-122.634201&spn=0.143816,0.259895&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3796 I Street, Ext\u003cbr>\nPetaluma, CA 94952\u003cbr>\nPhone: (707) 765-1202\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/TaraFirmaFarms\">@TaraFirmaFarms\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TaraFirmaFarms\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/26840/petaluma-easter-brunch-and-farm-tour","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_9248","bayareabites_2044","bayareabites_33","bayareabites_9247","bayareabites_8902","bayareabites_3700","bayareabites_9249","bayareabites_9250"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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