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Posts Tagged ‘coconut’


New Year’s Day Sweet Potato-Coconut Soup

Sunday, January 1st, 2012

Sweet Potato-Coconut Soup

Where does inspiration come from? I don't know what Beethoven would say, but for me, inspiration pops up out of the blue when I'm writing recipes. Of course, during recipe creation, like for any creative work, the brain is always humming away, rummaging through sense memories, taste memories, old cookbooks, dishes tasted a dozen years ago and filed away under "try to reproduce," descriptions from novels, bits of poetry, mental snapshots, things learned in first-job kitchens 20 years ago.

One morning, I was gathering the ingredients to cater a lunch for a women's leadership seminar at the Oakland Center for Spiritual Living. Some of the attendees were vegetarian, others dairy-free. I'd planned some nice ladies'-lunch items--the chicken salad with curry and mango chutney I'd made by the bucketful at a fancy deli in the mid-80s, a vegan quinoa-adzuki bean salad I'd created for this column last year--when the sunny day suddenly turned chilly and overcast. Soup weather, my mother would call it, and so tomato soup, with its cozy, home-from-school associations, seemed like a natural fit. But it wasn't summer, and the fresh tomatoes available were mealy, Mexican, and overpriced. How could I make a canned-tomato soup that didn't taste like marinara sauce, or worse, have that unmistakable tinny flavor to it?

Roasting the tomatoes in plenty of olive oil concentrated their flavor, and warming, India-meets-North African spices like coriander, mustard seed, and cumin took them out of the pizza-sauce realm. Instead of cream, a rich slug of coconut milk would balance out the tomatoes' acidity, as would a drizzle of honey at the end. But what wintery thing would give the soup some heft? Some sweetness and ballast? I was driving around Lakeshore, looking for parking, when the solution suddenly turned on in my head, just like the proverbial light bulb: sweet potatoes! Perfect color, perfect earthy sweetness, and the starch, once pureed, would turn the soup to velvet.

These roadside bursts of brilliance don't always pan out, but thankfully, this one did, and the soup turned out to be the star of the luncheon. In fact, I could have skipped both salads, left behind the fruit and cookies and just ladled out big bowls of soup, breadsticks on the side, to make everyone very, very happy.

So, why this soup for New Year's Day? Well, it's a good pantry soup. Canned tomatoes, chicken stock, sweet potatoes...you probably have all these around from the holidays' cooking sprees. The spices can be rearranged depending on your taste and what's in the pantry. It's good for you, a welcome, spice-bright visitation of veggies after all those rich and indulgent holiday meals. You can easily make it vegan by using vegetable stock and leaving out the honey (or substituting agave or brown-rice syrup).

It's easy to throw together, and it doesn't take long, and the recipe's easily doubled or tripled, should you have a lot of friends and family on the couch. And it's good for sipping any time of day, whether as a warm-up after a brisk walk or while wallowing in that all-day Downton Abbey marathon. Plus, what better way to start the New Year than with a burst of inspiration?

Sweet Potato-Coconut Soup

Yield: 6-8 servings
Prep Time: 25 minutes, plus 45 minutes roasting time
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes, plus 45 minutes roasting time

Ingredients:
1 28-oz can plum tomatoes, preferably organic
5 tbsp olive oil, divided
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
pinch cayenne, or to taste
pinch cinnamon or 1 cinnamon stick
1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
grated rind and juice of 1 small orange or tangerine
2 medium sweet potatoes, chopped
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 13.5 oz can coconut milk
1 tbsp honey, or to taste (agave syrup can be substituted for a vegan version)

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Drain tomatoes, saving liquid. Halve tomatoes and spread out in a single layer in a non-reactive baking pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes, until tomatoes have shrunk slightly and begun to brown. Remove from oven and set aside.

2. In a small, heavy pan (cast iron is ideal) over medium heat, toast mustard, coriander, and cumin seeds until mustard seeds start to pop and spices smell fragrant.

3. In a deep, heavy-bottomed soup pot, heat remaining 3 tablespoon olive oil. Add onions and saute, stirring frequently, until onions are softened and translucent. Add garlic and toasted spices, and cook, stirring, for another minute.

4. Add cayenne, cinnamon, ginger, rind and juice, sweet potato chunks, and roasted tomatoes. Add reserved tomato liquid and broth. Bring to a gentle simmer, reduce heat, and partially cover. Cook for 45 minutes, or until potatoes are very soft.

5. Add coconut milk and honey to taste. Taste for seasoning; add salt if needed. Remove cinnamon stick, if using. Let cool for a few minutes, then puree until smooth using an immersion (stick) blender. If using a regular blender, let cool for another 10 minutes before pureeing.

6. Taste for seasoning, and add honey or salt as needed. Serve hot.

posted by | posted in food and drink, holidays and traditions, radio, recipes | 1 Comment
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Homemade Coconut Cream Tart

Thursday, April 8th, 2010

coconut cream tart
I haven't made a coconut cream pie or tart in years. After discovering Tartine's velvety indulgence, I figured what was the point. How could I replicate their flaky crust topped with a layer of dark chocolate and caramel (and, I think, a few flecks of fleur de sel?) and then crowned with a rich coconut pastry cream? And then something happened. I began to crave coconut cream but was too busy and lazy to drive across the bridge to purchase one from Tartine. So, with Easter only a few days away and a holiday dessert in order, I decided I would create my own coconut concoction -- something that reminded me of the sweet perfection available across the bay, but different enough that I wouldn't constantly compare my tart to it.

While deciding how to make my tart, I mentally ran through a possible list of ingredients. More than anything I knew what I DIDN'T want to use. Sweetened coconut flakes -- which are essentially coconut that has been shriveled under the weight of excess sugar and preservatives --was out. Although Americans have become used to the flavor of this ingredient in coconut desserts, I wanted my tart to have a purer coconut flavor which meant avoiding a saccharine sweetness. I also had no interest in using coconut extract. Although I couldn't live without my bottles of vanilla, orange and almond extracts, in this case, I felt this type of addition would perfume the pie with a coconut flavor while I wanted it to be imbued with the taste of real coconut.

So what did I use? I started by making a simple pastry cream, but instead of using only milk and eggs, I added in a little coconut milk for a burst of tropical flavor. I then chose unsweetened coconut flakes, which are, and therefore taste like, real coconut to add in some texture. All this helped to make a lush and thick coconut cream that tasted like the real deal. I also wanted to add a whisper of chocolate and caramel into the mix to mimic the flavors in Tartine's dessert, but wasn't sure how to go about doing this. Although melting chocolate and making homemade caramel seemed like the right path, I eventually rejected this plan as I feared creating a thick layer of candy that would detract from the tart and its flavors. So, with my microplane in hand, I simply shaved some Scharffen Berger onto my just-baked pie crust and then sprinkled on some sugar before I set the shell under the broiler for about a minute. When I removed the crust from the oven the chocolate was perfectly melted and the sugar had caramelized

After assembling my tart, I had a dessert I was proud of. The cream filling, which was rich and silky, was infused with a genuine coconut flavor that was authentic without being overbearing. The subtle additions of chocolate and caramelized sugar to the crust then added nuance and helped to balance the flavors in the tart. Was it Tartine? No. Was it worth making? Definitely.

whole coconut cream tart

Coconut Cream Tart

Makes: 1 9-inch tart

Ingredients:
1 pastry crust (see recipe below)
Coconut pastry cream (see recipe below)
1 oz good bittersweet chocolate
1-2 Tbsp sugar
1 cup heavy whipping cream whipped with 1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 tsp vanilla
1/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

Preparation:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Roll out chilled pastry dough and set in a tart pan. Line with foil and then either enough pie weights or dried beans to cover the bottom. Bake for 15 minutes.

baking tart crust

3. Remove beans or pie weights along with the foil and then poke holes along the bottom of the crust with a fork. Continue to bake for 10-15 minutes or until the tart crust is golden brown.
4. Remove crust and then set oven to broil.
5. Shave enough chocolate to cover the entire bottom of the tart and then sprinkle on enough sugar to thinly cover the chocolate. Set the tart pan under the broiler for 1-3 minutes or until the chocolate melts and the sugar caramelizes. Be careful not to burn the pastry.
6. Let crust cool for at least an hour or until room temperature. When ready to serve, spread the cooled coconut pastry cream into the prepared tart shell and then top with the whipped cream. Sprinkle the coconut flakes on top as well as some microplaned chocolate if desired. Serve.

Coconut Pastry Cream

Makes: Enough for One Tart

Ingredients:
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup light or regular coconut milk (either is fine)
3 egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
4 Tbsp flour
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

1. Heat milk and coconut milk on medium heat in a sauce pan until liquid simmers and starts to rise in the pot.
2. Beat egg yolks in a medium bowl with sugar until fully mixed and light yellow. Add in the flour until fully incorporated.
3. Temper the egg mixture with some of the warmed milk by adding about a half cup milk to the egg mixture and quickly mixing. Then add the entire egg mixture to the pot of warmed milk and mix quickly and thoroughly.
4. Add in the coconut and then heat on medium for 2-3 minutes, continually mixing and scraping the sides with a heat proof spatula or wooden spoon to prevent burning.
5. When the mixture is thick and resembles the consistency of pudding (which is basically what it is), turn heat off and add in butter and vanilla. Stir until butter melts.
6. Place custard in a medium-sized bowl and cover with plastic wrap (laying the wrap directly on the custard to prevent a skin from forming). Set in the refrigerator for two hours or up to one day.

tart crust

Tart Dough

Makes: Enough for one 9-inch tart

Ingredients:
1 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
6 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1/4+ cup ice water

Preparation:
1. To make the crust, in the bowl of a food processor, stir together the flour, and salt. Sprinkle the butter over the top and process for a few seconds, or just until the butter is slightly broken up into the flour but still in visible pieces. Sprinkle the water over the flour mixture evenly, then process until the mixture just starts to come together.
2. Dump the mixture out of the bowl onto 2 large sheets of plastic wrap. Press the dough together into a mound and then wrap with plastic and press into a flat disk. Refrigerate the dough until chilled, about 30 minutes or up to 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.

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Key Lime Coconut Cheesecake

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

key lime coconut cheesecake
Key Lime Coconut Cheesecake

I once created a dessert inspired by a body lotion I fell in love with one summer. It was a creamy Coconut Lime Verbena lotion, and as I slathered it over my body, with the seductively warm coconut scent mingling with the sweet floral citrus notes of the lime verbena, my mind wandered to dessert.

Surely, such a match made in heaven could come together in flavor as well as aroma.

And indeed it could...in what I call my Key Lime Coconut Cheesecake. This decadent treat is like the tropical love child of a refreshing, tart, key lime pie and a rich cheesecake…with a coconut cream pie floozie thrown into the mix.

The citrus cuts through the richness, giving this dessert a surprisingly light feel to it. The addition of sour cream also gives it a sense of airiness, unlike some other cheesecakes that end up feeling like a brick in your stomach. I love adding nuts to my dessert crusts whenever possible, and this is no exception. I chose cashews here for their subtle, buttery flavor. And then there is the crowning shower of toasted coconut flakes. The coconut brings out the nuttiness of the crust, and the extra texture adds interest.

It takes some forethought to make, since it's best served after chilling in the fridge overnight, but the wait is well worth it! Whip this up for your next BBQ or party and wait for the oohs and ahhs to rain down, you domestic goddess, you.

Key Lime Coconut Cheesecake

Makes: One (10 inch) cheesecake, serves 8-10

Ingredients:
Crust
1 package graham crackers (approx. 1 cup)
1 cup cashews
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

Filling
1 (12 oz.) container sour cream
2 (8 oz.) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1 ¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons grated lime zest
½ cup lime juice (if you can’t find key limes, substitute with regular limes)
¼ cup Malibu (optional)
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 large eggs, at room temperature

Topping
½ cup sweetened coconut flakes, toasted
Slices of lime for garnish

Preparation:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Butter or spray the bottom of a 10 inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray. Cover the outside of the pan in foil. Finely grind the graham crackers and cashews in a food processor. Add the melted butter and 1 tablespoon of lemon zest, and process until the crumbs are moistened. Press the crumb mixture over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake until the crust is golden, about 15 minutes. Cool completely.

3. Mix together the sour cream, cream cheese, and sugar. Blend in the lime zest, lime juice, Malibu, and vanilla. Add eggs in one at a time.

4. Pour the cheese mixture over the crust in the pan. Place the pan in a large roasting pan. Create a hot water bath by pouring enough hot water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking pan. Bake until the cheesecake is golden and the center of the cake moves slightly when the pan is gently shaken, about 1 hour.

5. Sprinkle the toasted coconut on top. I just toast the coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat. Keep stirring it so it doesn't burn; it will toast up quickly. Garnish with lime slices.

6. Transfer the cake to a rack; cool 1 hour. Refrigerate until the cheesecake is cold and firm, at least 8 hours (best overnight).

posted by | posted in baking and bakeries, dessert and chocolate, recipes | 2 Comments
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