Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.

Ruth Reichl was standing in front of a gigantic American flag hanging like a banner along the wall of the Ferry Building on Friday, January 13th. It was a backdrop worthy of any Presidential hopeful stumping for votes in the heartland, but here, the stars and stripes were evoking not just Mom and apple pie but Mom's apple pie, and maybe great-granddaddy's moonshine, and now their kids' apple-whiskey chutney and curried cauliflower pickles. It was time to welcome the room of makers and media, gathered in San Francisco for the 2nd annual Good Food Awards, a celebration of the best of artisanal food production from coast to coast.

"Most of you are too young to have grown up in the white-bread world that I did," said Reichl. Every cheese was sliced and wrapped in plastic, all strawberries were huge and tasted like cotton. This changed, slowly, through the work of pioneers like Alice Waters, sitting off to one side of the podium, as well as dozens of other food pioneers. Reichl remembered the first time she walked into The Cheeseboard, in Berkeley and was handed a taste of Laura Chenel's Sonoma-made fresh goat cheese. Reichl lived on it all that summer, and knew that she had to meet the woman making something so new (to American tastes) and so delicious. Then there was "Artists of the Earth," an article she wrote for California magazine in the early 1980s, profiling nine men and women making a difference in the food world and beyond. "They are some of California's most valuable resources," she wrote then, "...perfectionists who work very hard not because they expect to get rich but simply because they expect to get the best."

Walking through Chino Ranch with Alice a few years later, she was amazed at the quality of produce surrounding them. Corn so sweet it needed no cooking. Strawberries so intensely fragrant that every fellow traveler on the small plane she and Alice were taking from San Diego to Oakland came up and begged for a berry off the flats they were carrying in their laps. "Every person said, 'I forgot strawberries could smell like that! Please, can I just have one?'" she recounted. "And I watched Alice give away that night's dessert for Chez Panisse, because how could she say no?"

"Back then, I never could have dreamed how huge the change was going to be. We now live in a country that has the best produce in the world...We are reclaiming our edible heritage. "Thank you for giving us the America we once dreamed we could have."

After this came the awards, 99 products in eight categories (coffee, chocolate, charcuterie, pickles, preserves, cheese, beer, spirits). There were no single winners; instead, each category had a fat handful of top picks, from seven coffee roasters to 14 preserve-makers. The winners, like food-world Olympians, got medallions stamped in the shape of the tools of their trade--a cleaver, a canning jar--strung on wide red-white-and-blue ribbons to hang around their necks.

It was hard not to feel a little hometown, homestate pride at the fine showing the Bay Area, and California, made in the final running. Two local beers made the cut, at opposite ends of the brewing spectrum: from San Leandro, Drake's Brewing Company's high-alcohol, rich-as-devil's-food Drakonic Imperial Stout, and from Petaluma, the Lagunitas Brewing Company's spritzy, grapefruity ale, dubbed A Lil' Sumpin' Sumpin'. In the coffee category, Equator Coffees from San Rafael won for its fair trade/organic Ethiopian Watadera beans.

In pickles, California snagged three of the 11 winning picks, including Farmhouse Culture's Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut, Emmy's Pickles and Jams' Turmeric Cauliflower, and the Devil Sauce made by Let's Be Frank, of grass-fed hot-dog truck fame. (And we'll give a California hug to OlyKraut, which was founded by Sash Sunday, a former San Franciscan who got into the kraut biz shortly after relocating to Olympia, WA. Plus, she makes nettle kraut!)

OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Massé (not pictured: Summer Bock)

We tied with New York in the cutthroat preserves category, winning for Artisan Preserves' Orange Honey Marmalade, Chez Pim's Blueberry-Golden Raspberry Preserves, and Wine Forest Wild Foods' Wild Elderberry Shrub.

Wylie Whiskey, from left: Matt Jones, Garrett Hale, Sarah Swearington.

It's a cascade of riches from our part of the Golden State: Costa Rican chocolate bars from Dandelion Chocolate in SF; white whiskey from Wylie Howell Spirits in Petaluma; Carmody (my favorite!) and whole-milk ricotta from Bellwether Farms in West Marin; yogurt cheese from Sonoma's St. Benoit, pork, rabbit, and duck terrine from Fatted Calf in SF and Napa; speck from Oakland wine bar/salumeria Adesso.

Dandelion Chocolate: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis

Come the next morning, many of the previous night's winners were out in force at the Good Food Awards Marketplace, a tasting/selling spread of tables organized by category set up under the archways of the Ferry Building. Reichl, who now runs the specialty food (and content) site Gilt Taste, was on hand with a keen appetite, even after a late-night dinner with Alice and friends at Locanda in the Mission. Already, she's tried the chilaquiles and shrimp ceviche at the Primavera market stand, and tells me, joyfully, of the "best breakfast sandwich" she's ever had, from 4505 Meats: a soft, buttery brioche bun piled with a maple-bacon sausage patty, an oozy-centered fried egg, and a frizz of snappy peppercress. Speaking of her talk the previous night, she laughed at the thought of trying to profile just eight makers now. "At the time, it was hard to find even eight people, enough to write about. I had to include a produce distributor, a guy who was raising pigs and lambs for Chez Panisse. Now, that would be ridiculous. You'd have to write an encyclopedia!"

If anything, she thinks we're underestimating the strength and staying power of the artisan movement. Already, the food makers' landscape has changed drastically in just the past five years. In the next five, ten years, what will it look like?

Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture

There's no doubt, though, that the movement is fostering ever-closer relationships between chefs, makers and farmers. These products, from basil vodka to sea-vegetable kraut, are only as good as their raw ingredients. Recounting a cabbage blight that decimated the California crop last year, Farmhouse Culture founder Kathryn Lukas quoted Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, laughing, "It's hard when you're in business with God."

Top Row: Richard Pelletier, Pim; Bottom Row: Megan Gordon and Shing Wong

Last week I had the absolute pleasure of taking part in a food photography panel organized by the Commonwealth Club entitled Eat, Shoots and Leaves. There were three of us on the panel: Shing Wong, a professional local photographer specializing in everything from food to weddings and Pim Techamuanvivit of the popular blog, Chez Pim. The ever-gracious Richard Pelletier was the moderator, and helped make the panel much more of a casual conversation than a stuffy, scripted talk.

That evening, we covered aspects of food photography that many folks are curious about: how to start, what equipment is necessary, how to find your own style, and how to market yourself. Here's a little insight into what we had to say:

Jumping Into the World of Food Photography
You've got to begin somewhere and it seems with many people that I've spoken with, it's a bit more accidental than anything. For me, I began my blog A Sweet Spoonful because I love writing and wanted an immediate platform to reach people and talk about food. The photography came second, but has evolved into a very important part of the blog. Pim mentioned how she began blogging so long ago that she didn't really have any models--she just jumped right in. And her photography's changed through the years. These days, she doesn't lug her heavy DSLR camera around while traveling or eating out around town; she prefers a light little Lumix instead as it facilitates capturing a moment and telling a story quickly. She's less intrigued by composing and styling the perfect shot. Shing's story is not uncommon: he has more of a corporate day-job, but is passionate about photography, so he's found a way to make both work and ends up shooting and editing a great deal in the evenings and on the weekends.

Finding Your Personal Style
Richard asked all of us if we have a personal style and what that would be. I spoke about how finding your personal style is so much about finding what is not your style. For me this was huge. I attended a food photography class with a teacher who was very interested in glues, foams, and other tricks to make food look like a perfectly manicured museum object. This isn't real food. Luckily during that particular weekend, I met the lovely Lara Ferroni who has become one of my biggest inspirations. She shoots photos mainly using natural light where food is center stage. Real food. That she's usually made herself. So for beginners who are searching for their own unique style, my advice would be to begin finding who inspires you (and who really does not). And practice. A lot. On your own or with friends. Your style will evolve with time and practice.

A few of my own photos

Preparing for a Shoot
We all chatted about how we prepare to shoot food. Being the type-A personality that I am, I lay everything out (linens, utensils, any props) ahead of time and have a clear sense of what I'm going to try and achieve (or the story I'm going to try and tell) before I've even cooked/baked the dish. I also do a few test shots for lighting to determine which room/area in the house is going to be the best bet given the time of day. Not everyone's like this. Pim is a bit more spontaneous with her photos--probably helped by her travels and need to be quick with her set-up. Shing shoots food at home and has done restaurant photo shoots where you're not so lucky to have a sense of how everything will be before you arrive. Flexibility is crucial here. You'll probably find that your approach aligns nicely with your personality. That being said, be open to surprises and allow yourself to play and break out of your box every now and then. Some of my favorite shots are a direct result of me cutting into cakes and climbing on top of tables.

What About the Ethics of Shooting Food?
Richard raised an excellent point in speaking about the ethics of shooting food, especially in restaurants: do you need to ask? What about if people are in your shots--do you need a release? All of us answered similarly in that we don't get model releases and don't ask permission. Pim had a great point that the second you ask permission to take someone's photo, it becomes much less authentic as they're usually posing for you in some way. In a photography workshop this past year, the fabulous Penny de los Santos taught us to really feel out situations and be aware of people's body language. But otherwise, to just start shooting until it becomes clear that it's time to stop. As far as restaurants, we all discussed not using a flash. This impedes on others' dining experience and, frankly, creates bad photos anyway. And we discussed speed: I find that if I'm focusing on shooting my meal, I'm not really enjoying my meal or who I'm sitting next to. So if I feel inclined to take a photo, I do it quickly and settle into my evening.

How to Market Yourself and Your Photos
As an amateur photographer, marketing yourself is important. Even for Shing, marketing is critical as photography isn't his day-job and it's important for him to remain current on what's going on in the photography world and for his work to be seen. Pim and I both discussed the importance of integrating yourself into your community: if you're a food blogger, get to know other bloggers. Start a discussion with them on their blogs and on twitter. Be authentic and genuine. Be patient--people aren't going to notice your blog and your photos right away. But they will. There are also the photo sharing sites like Foodgawker and Tastespotting that help drive traffic to your blog via a particular photo. And good old-fashioned networking never hurts, either.

Answering Great Questions From the Audience

At the end of the evening, audience members had a chance to ask a few questions. And after the talk was over, folks came up to greet us individually. This was such a wonderful experience for me because I remember being on the other side of the table not all that long ago, and it was an honor to be able to share what I've learned with others. If you're curious about other food-related events the Commonwealth is putting on, check out The Bay Gourmet's Facebook page or the Commonwealth Club's online schedule for more details.

Who are your favorite food photographers right now? Where do you find inspiration?

Here are a Few of My Favorite Food Bloggers/Photographers:

• Christopher Hirsheimer of Canal House is a photo goddess. Acquaint yourself.
  
• Erik Wolfinger shot the Tartine Bread book and the Outerlands Cafe website. His photos are stunningly spare and virtually tactile.
• Katie Quinn Davies pens the blog, What Katie Ate. Her photos stand out from many food blogs in large part due to the unique magazine-style format but also because of her uncanny ability to tell a story and set a mood/feeling with each shot.
• The blog Nordlijus is just so lovely and simple. Each of Keiko's photos quite literally stir up a response or reaction--a tall order for a simple photo. And that's a testament to Keiko's talent.

Photos of the evening taken by the talented photographer, Danielle Tsi. Check out her blog, Bon Vivant to see more of her work!

You have until tomorrow, Friday December 21st, to donate to Menu for Hope, and bid on any number of priceless prizes donated by food bloggers all over the world. As you already know, Ms. Pim of Chez Pim has organized this impressive fund raising event for the past four years. This year she's picked The United Nations' World Food Programme, as she did last year, but for 2007 she's made a special request,

"With a special permission from the WFP, the funds raised by Menu for Hope 4 will be earmarked for the school lunch program in Lesotho, Africa. We chose to support the school lunch program because providing food for the children not only keeps them alive, but keeps them in school so that they learn the skills to feed themselves in the future. We chose to support the program in Lesotho because it is a model program in local procurement - buying food locally to support local farmers and the local economy. Instead of shipping surplus corn across the ocean, the WFP is buying directly from local subsistent farmers who practice conservation farming methods in Lesotho to feed the children there."

In the spirit of supporting local food economy, one of the USA West Coast prizes has been amended as of the afternoon of Wednesday December 19.

(UW17) Dinner for 8 prepared by Brett Emerson
Brett Emerson, owner of the soon to be opened Contigo, is offering dinner made for 8 people in his new Noe Valley home. Wines to be paired and picked by none other than our very own wine blogging superstar, Alder Yarrow of Vinography. And desserts will be made by yours truly, Shuna fish Lydon of Eggbeater. Triple threat, no doubt.

This all-star dinner could be yours for a mere $10!

More USA West Coast prizes can be found here at Rasa Malaysia. But if you're a jet-setting world traveler you may want to bid on a personal tour of the El Bulli kitchen {EU31}, or have lunch with your not-so-secret lover at Alain Passard's 3 Michelin star L'Arpege in Paris one lovely afternoon {EU40}, to name just 2 insanely amazing possibilities!

The prizes are varied and beyond your wildest imagination. Delicious in every regard. Please take a few minutes to head over to First Giving and help us raise a record amount this year. (Last year we raised $60,925.12)

How To?

- To donate, go to First Giving. To specify a specific prize, follow the instructions on the Chez Pim website (scroll down to the instructions and screenshots).

One of the annual highlights in the food blog community is Menu for Hope - a fundraising event that raises money for the World Food Programme, a United Nations Food Aid Agency. Annually, the event is hosted by Pim Techamuanvivit from Chez Pim. Last year, Menu for Hope raised an astonishing $60,000.

The funds this year will be going to a school lunch program in Lesotho, Africa. According to Pim, the Lesotho program is focusing on "buying food locally to support local farmers and the local economy". (Do I have to tell you how excited I am about this program?)

Food bloggers around the world offer prizes -- everything from cookbooks to fully cooked meals -- that are bid on by donors who donate $10 per virtual raffle ticket. A full list of prizes can be found on the Chez Pim site. As of this morning, over $7,000 has already been donated to this year's event.

Each year, the Bay Area boasts some prizes that can only be claimed if you live in the area or if you travel here to get your prize. Here are some of my favorites so far (along with the prize code in parenthesis):

(UW08) Custom Mixology Service
Anita and Cameron from Married with Dinner often feature amazing drinks and spirits on their blog. Win their prize and they will work with you and come to your home to create delightful cocktails for you and 12 guests.

(UW32) English Afternoon Tea
This year, Sam from Becks and Posh is offering a tiered prize. If the total amount donated to her prize is over $2,500 and you live in or can travel to the Bay Area, she and June Taylor will host an English Afternoon Tea for you and your friends.

(UW10) Dinner for 2 with wine pairing and a private tour of Manresa's biodynamic garden with chef David Kinch.
Pim is offering this prize with her partner, David Kinch and it involves dinner at one of the most lauded restaurants in the country.

(UW04) Boccalone Boar Sacchetto of artisan salumi
Boccalone is a new entrant on the local salami scene, and the Bunrabs are offering this gift courtesy of Boccalone. Prize must be picked up at the Oakland or San Francisco Salumi Society gathering.

(UW17) Dinner for 8 prepared by Brett Emerson
Brett Emerson, owner of the soon to be opened Contigo, is offering dinner made for 8 people in his new Noe Valley home.

(UW18) Bento Box and Tour of SF Japantown with Lunch in a Box.
Biggie, the blogger at Lunch in a Box, is a person who I'd like to explore Japantown with. She's fluent in Japanese and could probably explain many of unidentifiable Japanese foods to me.

You can find other gifts donated by West Coast bloggers (including our own Amy Sherman) at Rasa Malaysia.

Nuts and Bolts of participating:

- Donating started yesterday and continues through December 21.
- To donate, go to First Giving. To specify a specific prize, follow the instructions on the Chez Pim website (scroll down to the instructions and screenshots).
- Check back on January 9 to see if you've won!