If there's one thing Bay Area backyard gardeners can count on at this time of year, it's kale. Our cool, typically damp winter weather is tailor-made for hearty winter greens, ones that can thrive through hard frosts, even snow. And though winter's rains may be passing us by, with a little irrigation, the crinkly kale, dino kale, red or white Russian kale should be growing like crazy in whatever pot, plot, or raised bed you've got planted.

Shop the farmers' markets these days, and while the first, $8/lb sugar-snap peas may be starting to appear, the backbone of the veggie tables are dark-green, iron-rich greens: punchy mustard greens, mellow collards, rainbow-ribbed chard, plus green or burgundy beet tops, the gift of two-veg-in-one that comes free with every bunch of sweet roots.

So: time to love your greens. We served a lot of greens during my time cooking at the Headlands Center for the Arts, yet we were pretty content to do them the same way each time. A handful of minced shallot was flung into sizzling olive oil, chopped greens were added, then the whole was stirred and stirred until just wilted and tender. To finish, we tossed in a quick splash of sherry vinegar or a couple of lemons, sliced into eighths and crushed a little to release the juice and aromatic oils. I do mine at home much the same way, with slivered garlic instead of shallots, and a healthy shake of red pepper flakes for a little burn. Nice with rice and tofu, nice with polenta and sausage, nice leftover cold out of the pan, eaten with your fingers while doing the dishes.

Now, though, during greens' moment in the sun, dinner is not enough. Greens need to find a home at every meal. A lot of farm mornings began with eggs and kale, as we counted down the weeks until the potato harvest. I love green eggs and ham, made from emerald-green minced nettles sauteed and stirred into scrambled eggs with a bit of proscuitto draped on top. And, then, for lunch, there are kale chips, kale Caesar salad, pasta with kale, Portuguese caldo verde with kale, potatoes, and linguica sausage, kale every way.

But have you thought about a kale sandwich? I did, this past weekend, when I was making breakfast and lunch for a staff and board members' retreat, 25 people needing muffins and sandwiches to help them forget that a sunny, beautiful beach was just five minutes' walk away from where they were trapped around a darkened conference table with spreadsheets and PowerPoint. My solution? Quinoa-almond-citrus salad, lentil-beet-mint salad, chocolate-chip oatmeal cookies, apple-cherry cider, turkey sandwiches, and the veggie crowning glory, kale sandwiches. Oh, you may laugh, but they were lively, colorful stacks that turned out to be much more than the sum of their vitamin-packed parts. The elements? Sauteed greens and onions piled on whole-wheat focaccia dabbed with Dijon mustard, layered with thin slices of roasted winter squash, topped with Weirauch Farm and Creamery's Tomme Fraiche or creamy Doubloon cheese, and finished with a smear of tart-tangy plum chutney or punchy arugula pesto.

It takes a while to make a sandwich when you're making everything from bread to pesto from scratch. So, while homemade focaccia is always the best, feel free to substitute any good bread of choice, from Acme's herb slab to the sesame loaf baked by Morell's Bread (pictured here). The chutney, luckily, I'd made earlier in the summer, to rescue a batch of less-than-stellar jam. Boring, slightly-too-sweet stone-fruit jam, it turns out, can make a very successful base for chutney, once it's jazzed up and cooked down with cider vinegar, chopped onions, and plenty of aromatic spices. If you don't have a pantry full of chutney on hand, I'd recommend any of Alison McQuade's excellent, small-batch chutneys, sold under the name McQuade's Celtic Chutney. Or, you can retrieve that slightly shriveled, almost-wilted bunch of arugula from down in the vegetable drawer and buzz it together with a couple tablespoons of walnuts or pine nuts, a couple cloves of garlic, salt to taste, the juice of a lemon, a splash of water and a few tablespoons of olive oil. Puree until smooth, and taste. It will probably taste too tannic from the walnuts, too sharp from the arugula, and leave you wishing for summer's fragrant basil.

No worry, though: a solution is at hand. Crumble in a moist, creamy-mild Doubloon cheese, made by Weirauch Farm and Creamery in Petaluma. Instantly, the spread is tamed, its punch tempered with creaminess. When you're picking up your Doubloons, get another one, this one rolled in herbes de Provence, along with a wedge of their springy, buttery Tomme Fraiche.

Now, onto your squash. Butternut, kabocha, pumpkin, whatever hard-shelled winter squash you've had languishing on the counter since your last CSA box. Not acorn, though; too pasty and stringy. You want dense, sweet and nutty for this. Peel and seed your squash, and slice the flesh into thin half-moons. Oil lightly, sprinkled with salt and pepper, and roast at 400F until tender.

While the squash is roasting, slice up an onion, red or yellow. In a wide pan, saute it in olive oil until tangled and translucent. You can let it go farther and get browned here and there, halfway to caramelization. Keep some texture, though; you want recognizable loops, not onion jam. Wash but don't dry your greens, which don't have to be kale but should be some mixture of sturdy greens, rather than something weepingly delicate like spinach. I used a mixture of collards, mustard, and beet tops, but any tough-ish greens will do. Shred your greens and toss them into the hot pan full of onions. Stir and season with salt and pepper until greens are wilted and just tender. Take a bite; you shouldn't feel like you're chewing on a raincoat, but they shouldn't be boiled to mush, either. Pull off the stove and let cool.

Now, the assemblage. Slice your focaccia horizontally, if using; otherwise, slice your bread. Spread chutney or pesto on the inside of one piece. Add a few pieces of Tomme Fraiche, or crumble on a tablespoon or so of Doubloon. On the second slice of bread, spread a dab of Dijon mustard. Pile on some greens and onions. Layer on some slices of roasted squash, as if you're laying out a row of cards in solitaire. Put the halves together with a firm but gentle squish. Enjoy!

Thanksgiving works a little differently for us vegans and vegetarians. We also love to celebrate and give thanks with those closest to us. We also love to share a grand meal and reflect on the past year. We also love pie.

What we do differently is not just swap out the meat with a squash or a store-bought substitute. We also make sure to think about the hundreds of millions of birds who are slaughtered each year during this time and give thanks to the individuals at sanctuaries around the country who take in the more fortunate. We thank the restaurants who cater to our lifestyle of compassion. And we thank the animals who make our lives richer, funnier, eye-opening, and loving.

Below is a list of events happening in the area to celebrate Thanksgiving AND the turkeys, plus options on places to order a vegan meal and desserts:

1. November 12: Join Harvest Home Animal Sanctuary for Toast for the Turkeys in honor of the rescued turkeys at the sanctuary.

   
   Two of the residents at Harvest Home Animal Sanctuary, Bill and Sierra. Bill was found wandering the streets of Berkeley before being pickup by Animal Control. He is a gentle giant with the manners of a perfect gentleman. He spends his days gracing the green pasture with his buddy, Sierra. Photo Credit: Christine Morrissey

   The event, sponsored by such Bay Area establishments as Cinnaholic, Vegansaurus, D.O.V.E. Distributors, and Rainbow Grocery will also feature a “Humane Harvest” vegetarian food drive, to benefit the Emergency Food Bank of Stockton/San Joaquin.

Check out this video from last year's Toast to the Turkeys:

2. November 19: Take part in Farm Sanctuary’s annual Celebration FOR the Turkeys which features a vegan feast, musical performance, guest presentations, and the most adored of all – the Feeding of the Turkeys celebration, where the turkeys are the center of attention and dine on squash, pumpkin pie, and cranberries (on silver platters of course!).

   
   Me bonding with a turkey at the 2009 Feeding of the Turkeys. They are incredibly friendly animals and love to socialize and be petted!

   This year’s guests will include vegan writer and chef Colleen Patrick-Goudreau and Biz Stone, co-founder of Twitter and the new Biz & Livia Stone Foundation, who became vegan after visiting Farm Sanctuary. You will also be able to tour the farm and visit with all the other animals. I was taken to the Celebration FOR the Turkeys for my 30th birthday, and it was the best birthday I ever had (good job, husband!).

   
   Two turkeys enjoying their feast of pumpkin and veggies. At factory farms, turkeys' beaks and toes are clipped (without anesthesia), so these guys have a little trouble eating without getting messy. But they definitely still enjoy the feast that so many turkeys don't get to experience.

   Farm Sanctuary (who recently took in 25 baby turkeys from a factory farm that were dumped on their doorstep) truly changes your perspective on farm animals as you spend time with them, experience their different personalities, and watch them thrive in a free and loving environment. [If you can’t make it, consider sponsoring a turkey!]

3. November 24: Join Café Gratitude (who recently opened a location in LA!) for their annual vegan Free Thanksgiving Meal, where this super compassionate establishment gives back with a feast served by volunteers from the community.

   
   Cafe Gratitude's Annual Free Thanksgiving Meal. Photo Credit: Cary Mosier
   
   If you prefer to stay in, you can still experience some Gratitude on your table by ordering a pie to go. Their desserts are seriously delicious (and probably the most healthy you’ll ever eat). It's sure to please vegans and omnis alike.

4. Order your vegan holiday meal from Souley Vegan, everyone’s favorite vegan soul food restaurant! This year the offerings include Southern fried tofu, roasted garlic mashed potato with gravy, and cornbread dressing, among other delicious options. You can also order pies and cheesecakes.

   
   Photo Credit: Souley Vegan

   Check out their homepage for a link to the menu and ordering instructions (order must be received by November 21).

5. Cinnaholic is promising some exciting holiday flavors this year, including pumpkin spice and egg nog frostings, and toppings like gingersnaps, candy cane pieces, and peppermint “Oreos.”

   
   Photo Credit: Michael Lang/Cinnaholic

   They’ve also teamed up with the aforementioned Harvest Home Sanctuary to celebrate the Toast to the Turkeys by donating, for the entire month of November, 50% of all Baby Bun sales to help out with feeding, housing, and general care for the animals.

And if you are simply looking for a way to complete your holiday table with something sweet, here are a few other places to check out for ordering Thanksgiving desserts:

Wholesome Bakery: Try their Sweet Potato Pecan Baby Pies
Rainbow Grocery: They always have an assortment of vegan treats from various local bakeries.
Mission Pie: They're offering a Vegan Apple-Cranberry crumb-top pie this year for Thanksgiving.
Fat Bottom Bakery: You can special order some Pumpkin Cupcakes with vegan cream cheese frosting.
Idle Hands Baking Company: Try their Spice Cake (gluten-free option available) or Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cake.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

I came late to the quinoa love-fest. Technically, this high-protein, high-fiber, gluten-free superfood from the Andes is not a grain, although it acts like one in the kitchen. When I was a UCSC farm and garden apprentice, we made a lot of quinoa pancakes (not bad) and quinoa tabbouleh (surprisingly good). But too many times, I've had it served plain as plain and here, I must tell you: Quinoa, You're No Rice. Sad to say, you're not even couscous. To me, unadorned quinoa tastes like it came out the wrong end of the flavor-extraction machine, pleasantly fluffy but free of taste.

So, the trick with quinoa is to treat it like tofu: as a nice, neutral backdrop just aching to become a Jackson Pollack. In other words, throw a lot of big, bright stuff at it, and you'll get something worth eating. Unlike, say, pasta, which gets exponentially tastier the more cheese, sausage, and cream you toss into it, quinoa's best partners are stubbornly healthy.

Which brings us to that staple of Bay Area life, the potluck. And especially, the potluck with the vegan/vegetarians, half of whom have recently gone gluten-free. I've already given out my potato-salad tips, which could be adapted to use a vegan egg-free mayonnaise like Nayonaise, or the tofu version in Mollie Katzen's Still Life with Menu.

The tininess and cool purplish color of cooked adzuki beans work well with the colors and general small scale of everything in this salad, but you could, if pressed, use another small bean from your Mason-jar arsenal. If at all possible, soak and cook the beans yourself; canned beans are really too mushy to make a decent showing in any salad.

But who am I kidding? You're already looking at those half-dozen cans of organic black beans in your pantry and thinking, "Burn through gas and raise my blood pressure angling for a parking spot at Berkeley Bowl just to get a half cup of some weird bitty bean? Not a chance!" Okay, sister, I hear you. But at least drain and rinse those beans really, really well to get all the slimy can-muck off. (And by the way, if you've ever had a moon cake stuffed with red-bean paste, you've had adzuki beans; in Asia, where this bean originated, its nutty-sweet flavor is highly prized for use in desserts and other sweets.)

This recipe is a mash-up of inspiration from two different recipes, Tangerine Quinoa Pilaf from The Sunset Cookbook and Curried Couscous Salad in The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook. A small amount of beans and quinoa turns into a satisfyingly generous (and protein-rich) amount of salad, and it can easily be made a day or two in advance. If your favorite farmers' market vendor has carrots in groovy colors like purple and burgundy, by all means buy them instead of the usual orange ones. You'll lose a lot of the color if you peel, so just wash well and dice.

With Memorial Day just around the corner, it's time to talk about burgers (again). Yes, I know I just wrote about all-beef patties, but you don't need meat to make a tasty burger. Veggie burgers can be just as delicious as their beef counterparts, and healthier too.

Now when I say veggie burgers, I do not mean garden burgers. Just like any mass-produced food, frozen garden burgers are a quick commercially-made alternative to a true veggie burger. Making homemade vegetarian burgers is not much more difficult than preparing beef burgers (especially if you have a food processor) and you can modify the recipe for your own tastes and preferences. Plus they aren't full of sodium (unlike the frozen varieties).

There are numerous ways to make veggie burgers. Whether using mushrooms, vegetables, tofu or beans as a base, each recipe has something different to offer. I like making my burgers with beans because the texture, when pulsed in a food processor, is really perfect for shaping into patties. I also just like the flavor of beans. Other ingredients I tend to use are walnuts (which provide both substance and flavor), spinach (which helps bind the burger), carrots and onions. You'll also need to mix in a dry ingredient or the burger will disintegrate into the pan when you try to fry it (trust me on this as I've had it happen). The good news is that you can really use whatever you'd like, from bread crumbs to oatmeal, rice, bulgur or couscous (which is what I used when preparing the recipe below this week as I had some leftover from dinner the night before).

Seasonings are really whatever you want. If using black beans, try a tsp of cumin and 1/2 cup cilantro. If you want something with an Italian flavor, use cannellini beans and then add in some sun dried tomatoes and basil. Other flavorings could be chili powder, turmeric, curry powder, ginger, soy sauce or a variety of herbs. It's your burger, so mix in whatever sounds good.

Keep in mind that veggie burgers need to be cooked and prepared a little differently than meat burgers. Here are some tips and tricks to keep in mind:
• Don't over process the ingredients or else the burger will fall apart
• Cook in a nonstick pan (I use my cast-iron pans)
• Fry your burgers in a little bit of oil
• Handle your burgers carefully as veggie burgers are more fragile than meat burgers and tend to fall apart
• Chill your burgers before cooking (if time allows) as they will maintain their shape better
• Start off cooking in a hot skillet and then reduce the heat
• If you accidentally over process the beans, just add more dry ingredients
• Taste the bean mixture before adding the egg so you can determine if you have seasoned everything to your liking

Following is my bean burger recipe along with some links to other types of veggie burgers that you may find interesting. Some are vegan, some vegetarian and all worth considering.

*Apparently Worcestershire sauce contains anchovies (who knew?) so if you'd like to keep this vegetarian or vegan, you can substitute soy sauce.

Other Veggie Burgers That Look Good

Here's a list of recipes for veggie burgers that I haven't yet tried, but plan on preparing in the future.

• Moosewood's Mushroom Pecan Burgers from the venerable and reliable Moosewood Restaurant
• Summer Veggie Burger Made to Order by Mark Bittman
• The Simplest Bean Burgers from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything
• Tofu Burgers by 101 Cookbooks
• Cracked Wheat Burgers with Pickled Onions and Lime Slather from Better Homes and Gardens
• Greek Spinach Veggie Burgers from Better Homes and Gardens
• Bean Burgers from Alison Holst from Alicia Silverstone's The Kind Life
• Sweet Potato Black Bean Burger from Meatless Monday
• Mushroom Burgers With Almonds and Spinach from the New York Times Recipes for Health
• White Bean Burgers from the New York Times Recipes for Health

Wednesday we brought you a little preview of Source, the brand new vegetarian "multi-dimensional" restaurant that opened in the Design District. Today we bring you a first impression.

The Space: Clean, bright, fresh, and modern. Yes, they do have light displays, a waterfall, and music reminiscent of Blade Runner, but it's not overpowering or new-agey in feel. It's casual—you order up front and grab a table number—and pretty laid back. It is a little stark, and would benefit from some art or paint on the walls, which would bring a little warmth to the atmosphere.

House Blend Raw Yerba Mate Blueberry Lemonade

The Staff: Very friendly, welcoming, and super informed. They didn’t have everything on the menu yet (it was only the second day of their soft launch) but they were able to answer all my questions about future plans. Yes, they are trying to develop a gluten-free pizza dough. Yes, they will have vegan cheese soon, and it will be a raw cashew cheese. And yes, their pasta is all gluten-free (made of brown rice). Do you know what this means? It means gluten-free vegans have a new place to eat (that’s pretty rare)!

Jamaican Jerk Cluck Entrée

The Food: We ordered the Jamaican Jerk Cluck entrée (with vegetables, sweet mango chutney, and house wild rice), the Peking Quack Sandwich (with soy quack, cucumber, avocado, scallions, and black sesame hoisin sauce), a House Blend Raw Yerba Mate Blueberry Lemonade, a Whoopie Pie and a Twinkle (a more wholesome version of a Twinkie). Everything was fresh, flavorful, and filling—just really very tasty and satisfying. And considering we got dinner, dessert, and a drink for two people for just under $30 (and for organic food at that), it was really very affordable.

Peking Quack Sandwich

The Jamaican Jerk Cluck’s sauce was bursting with flavor with just a hint of heat and complimented nicely with a more subdued simple wild rice. The Peking Quack was sweet and chewy, and heaped into a homemade grilled flatbread topped with cripsy cucumber and creamy avocado. It was nice to have a side of real fries – simple potato strips that were not coated in seasoning or over-salted. The Raw Yerba Mate Blueberry Lemonade is probably one of my new favorite drinks—refreshing, not overly sweet with just enough tartness. As for the Whoopie Pie -- well, you can’t go wrong with what is essentially a frosting sandwich. The Twinkle was a tiny bit dry, but flavorful and not guilt-inducing like the apocalypse-defying Hostess variety.

Whoopie Pie

In summary: I will go back. I will try many more things on their menu. And I am all over their brunch that starts in two weeks.

Source
Hours: Open 7 days a week, 11am to 3pm for lunch, 5pm to 10pm for dinner (They will start serving brunch on Saturdays and Sundays two weeks from now.)
Location: 11 Division Street (at the corner of Division St & De Haro St, between King St & Berry St) -- Be careful with Google Maps; typing in "11 Division Street" sends you to an alley between Best Buy and the SPCA.
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-864-9000
Email: info@source-sf.com

Nestled between SoMa, the Mission, and Potrero (Somisspo!), Source is a vegetarian (and vegan-friendly) restaurant offering not only a varied organic menu, but also a host of mood-enhancing and body-healing atmospheric elements.

The feng shui'ed space will feature a waterfall, custom-designed music, a special lighting system, purified air, and heated patio.

The menu will be seasonal and organic offering dishes from a wide range of cuisines. The food menu is about 60% vegan, with the only non-vegan ingredients in the kitchen being honey (used in some drinks) and cheese. Many dishes do include cheese, but they are easily veganizable. And the desserts are ALL vegan! Banana Chocolate Pie anyone?

Everything on the (reasonably-priced) food menu sounds delicious, but these stick out as particularly intriguing:

Peking Quack [faux duck] sandwich w/ soy quack, cucumber, avocado, scallions, and black sesame hoisin sauce

Crisp [dairy and fish-free] Caesar Salad with tamarind caesar dressing and sliced crispy pinole strips

Country Shepherds Pie with moo [faux beef], assorted fresh vegetables, caramelized & toasted onion, and mashed potatoes

[raw and gluten-free] Pecan Date Cream Roll

When asked about the reason for choosing onomatopoeias for the faux meat names, owner Andrew Fox replied, "We are using the animal sounds to name the foods so that no one is offended. [Also], the sounds of the animals are their voices thanking us for saving their lives." The faux meats are not made in-house yet, but will be in the future.

The extensive menu also offers pizzas, burgers, and dosas and they will offer a whole elixer and smoothie menu, raw options, and filtered ionized water.

My hope is that they will venture into offering vegan cheeses for their dishes. While the option to veganize is lovely, it would be nice not to have to subtract ingredients and instead be able to replace them with something equally delicious. I know I tend to challenge restaurants with this request, but nut cheeses and creams are a delicious alternative that more and more restaurants are embracing (like Gather, Gracias Madre, and Gratitude). They do offer cashew mayo and embrace raw food, so I'm hoping cashew cheese is not far off? And since the intention in their faux meat names is to acknowledge the saving of animals, a move away from dairy would acknowledge the fact that the meat and dairy industry are inherently connected.

Source looks to be an exciting addition to the vegetarian family of restaurants in the Bay Area. With it's wide range of culinary options, unique design elements, and welcoming spirit, it's sure to fulfill you mind, belly, and soul.

Source opens for dinner today, Wednesday, March 9, at 5pm. Beginning Thursday, March 10, it will be open 11am-3pm for lunch and 5pm-10pm for dinner. They will have a happy hour at 5pm on Thursday, serving elixirs, teas, coffee, dessert and some lunch and dinner fare. They will start serving brunch on Saturdays and Sundays in two weeks. (Always excited for more vegan brunch options in the Bay Area!)

Source
Open 7 days a week, 11am to 3pm for lunch, 5pm to 10pm for dinner
11 Division Street (at the corner of Division St and De Haro St, between King St and Berry St)
San Francisco, CA
415-864-9000
info@source-sf.com

In case you haven't noticed it's pretty dreary out there. While this is a summer vacation compared to the dreaded East Coast winters I've faced in the past, I still love to curl up with blankets and soup on days like these (a warm dog sleeping next to you doesn't hurt either).

A favorite soup for everyone is ramen. Yummy broth, chewy noodles, and a medley of toppings. It doesn't get much better than that.

Unfortunately traditional ramen is not vegan; the broth contains fish (bonito), pork, and sometimes chicken, and the noodles contain eggs. So the option of going to a Japanese restaurant is out. But no need to fret! You can make easy and delicious vegan ramen at home with just a few tweaks.

I use O'Hana House noodles that are available at Rainbow and Whole Foods in the refrigerated section. The "chow mein" variety has a surprisingly similar effect as regular ramen. It may be taboo for me to make this comparison, but it's the closest thing we've got and it works really well. If anyone knows of a better alternative, I'd love to hear about it!

Vegan Shoyu Ramen

Makes: 2 servings

Ingredients:
1 package of O'Hana noodles (each inner packet is good for one bowl)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp grated ginger (tip: freeze ginger and grate on a Microplane)
1 tsp sesame oil
3 cups water
1 cup kombu dashi soup stock (You can also buy instant kombu dashi like Riken Kombu Instant Dashi at a Japanese market like Nijiya.)
1 Tbsp sake
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbsp sugar
3 Tbsp soy sauce

Topping options:
• tofu (I used Hodo Soy Beanery's braised tofu.)
• spinach (I like to blanch it, line it up, roll it in a towel to get some moisture out, and then slice it.)
• sliced green onions
• nori strips (You can cut your own, or buy a tub of pre-made strips at a Japanese market.)
• shichimi tōgarashi
• other options: shiitake mushrooms, veggie tempura, seitan, steamed or seared vegetables

Instructions:
1. Place noodles in a bowl of very hot water to loosen them up.
2. Meanwhile, heat sesame oil. Saute ginger and garlic for a few seconds.
3. Add water and kombu dashi soup stock and bring to a boil.
4. Add sugar, salt, sake, and soy sauce and simmer for a minute.
5. Pour broth through a strainer -- you want a nice clear broth with no bits floating around.

Place noodles into two bowls. Pour broth over noodles and arrange toppings. Make it pretty -- it makes a difference!

Enjoy!

Winter has always been an ideal time for making a big pot of chili. Full of spices and served hot, it's the perfect anecdote to a chilly day. It's also the ultimate dish for a large group, whether you're having a big family dinner or a Super Bowl party.

I used to think chili had to have meat in it to be interesting. I figured the slow roasted beef in my recipe provided the stew's deep and substantial flavors. So I was surprised to find that a vegetarian chili I recently made had its own robust complexity that was just as satisfying. And, unlike meat chili, the vegetarian variety only took an hour to prepare and cost less than $10 to make for a family of four.

Now I do love my meat chili, but because it uses beef chuck, it takes hours to braise, so making it is a bit of an event. Three-bean chili, on the other hand, takes little more time than preparing a standard weekday dinner if you use canned beans. And, if you want something really special you can start your preparations the night before and boil up a batch of dried beans.

Preparing vegetarian chili is a bit like planting a flower garden. You want it colorful and lush without being overbearing. Using a variety of chilies, from fresh to canned, dried and powdered, is the key to achieving something that is smoky and deep with just the right amount of heat. And while some recipes I've seen out there call for a hodgepodge of vegetables, I try to avoid making my chili look like a version of vegetables on parade. Instead I like to partner my beans and the various chilies with other ingredients that will accent their flavors, like beer, coffee, corn and Mexican chocolate. Simmered together everything coalesces into a rich and hearty whole.

So whether you're making a weeknight family dinner, or in need of a dish that will satisfy a crowd, it's a good time to enjoy a pot of chili.

Three-Bean Vegetarian Chili

Makes: Enough for 5-6 people (can easily be doubled)

Ingredients:
1 Tbsp vegetable or corn oil
3 cans or 6 cups homemade cooked beans (pinto, kidney, black or some of each)
1 large onion chopped
2 Anaheim peppers chopped
1 small or a ½ large jalapeno pepper
1 carrot diced
2 medium or one large bell pepper (I use red or orange but green is also fine)
½ can tomato paste
1 15 oz can diced tomatoes
1 cup medium-body beer (I like Negro Modelo)
½ cup brewed coffee
2 Tbsp chili powder (mild or Chipotle)
1 Tbsp ground cumin
½ tsp dried and ground coriander seed
2 Tbsp dried Mexican or regular oregano (crushed between your hands)
1 tsp salt
1-2 chilis from a can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (depending on how spicy you want your chili)
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernals
2 Tbsp masa harina or finely ground corn meal (optional)
2 tsp grated Mexican chocolate or cocoa powder (optional)

Note: you can just freeze the chipotle chilies you don't use

Possible Toppings
Sour cream
Diced white or spring onions
Grated cheese
Crumbled corn chips
Olives
Corn nuts

Preparation:

1. Heat a large heavy pot (I like to use a cast-iron Dutch oven) on medium high heat. When the pot is heated, add in 1 Tbsp oil and then add in your chopped onion, jalapeno, carrot, and Anaheim peppers. Sauté for 5-7 minutes or until onions are translucent.

2. Mix in the tomato paste along with the chili powder, cumin, ground coriander, salt and oregano. Let cook on medium heat for 2-3 minutes.

3. Add in the beer, diced tomatoes and chopped bell pepper. Stir and then mix in the beans, coffee and chipotle chili in adobo sauce.

4. Bring the chili to a soft boil and then cover and set the burner to simmer. Cook for at least 45 minutes to one hour, stirring every so often to make sure the chili doesn't burn on the bottom of the pot.

5. Once all the flavors have melded, stir in the chocolate, corn and masa harina.

6. If the chili seems too soupy, or if it's a little too spicy, add another tablespoon of masa harina. Mix in thoroughly.

7. Simmer for another 10 minutes and then serve with your favorite toppings and cornbread.

I’ve been waiting for Straw to open since the Holiday Block Party this past Christmas in Hayes Valley where they handed out samples of truffle oil popcorn and lavender lemonade. After months of waiting (including a contest for guessing their opening date with the prize of a month of free meals), this carnival-themed restaurant opened its doors and moved into the Hayes family.

Dinner menu welcomes all.

This small space near the corner of Octavia and Page is not only chock-full of carnival-themed paraphernalia, it’s also cozy, friendly, and inviting. And the attention to detail is impeccable. There’s an antique tilt-a-whirl used as a booth, old signs saying things like “winner every time” and “3 balls $1.00,” and fantastic black-and-white photos of carnival goers. There are complimentary jawbreakers on the table and tiny candy packages for the taking in the box you get your check in. The menus are covered with the bindings of old books, and the contents of those menus contain some of the most creative dishes I have ever seen.

Old book bindings are used for the menus.

Being a vegan, when I first heard about Straw, I assumed it’ll be a cool place to go with friends but that I would definitely have to pre-eat. Just to give them the benefit of the doubt, I emailed them to ask about vegan options, and to my happy surprise they replied that they actually have both a vegan and gluten-free menu available for guests, because, as the front page of their menu states “everyone should enjoy our carnival.”

Gastro Gypsy Sandwich

My husband and I were the fifth party on their opening night and we were promptly handed vegan menus upon mentioning our dietary choice. It was so nice not to do the oft-performed dance of “well… this COULD be made vegan if you take everything off the plate and leave just the lettuce.” I opted for the Gastro Gypsy sandwich made with Moroccan carrots and olive tapenade, and my husband chose the Grilled PB&J. As a side we got the sweet potato tots with blackberry BBQ sauce.

The Gastro Gyspy had sweet and spicy roasted carrots with a tangy green olive tapenade. The vegetarian version of this sandwich includes chevre and, although the vegan version was delicious, I did miss having a third (creamy) ingredient in there. Perhaps Straw can learn the surprisingly easy art of making cashew cheeses; they’re already so creative, I can totally see them taking on a challenge like that. The PB&J was warm and satisfying with the nice touch of adding apricot preserve instead of the usual berry or grape jam.

But the tots—oh the tots! I’d go back just for those. Homemade crispy, bright orange-centered sweet potato nuggets dunked in tangy blackberry BBQ sauce. I seriously could make a meal out of those.

Sweet Potato Tots with Blackberry BBQ Sauce

Unfortunately the dessert options they had that night were not vegan, but I've heard talk of orange blossom cotton candy that I plan to try as soon as the machine is up and running.

Now, I know that Straw is not a vegan restaurant (and their non-vegan fare is mad extensive, even featuring specials inspired by the New Orleans Jazz Festival), but the fact that they make the effort to have menus for people with alternative dietary ethics or health requirements, makes me have a lot of respect for them. In fact, they seem to make an effort to acknowledge their community in multiple ways, by sourcing from local farms, and giving 10% of each Monday’s proceeds to a local charity or organization (this week went to neighbor Hayes Valley Farm).

Something sweet to take with you.

I also have faith that as soon as they get in their groove, they’ll start offering some vegan entrees and desserts, in addition to the sandwiches and salads. Or even brunch options—I'm dying for a great tofu scramble at somewhere other than The Plant.

And I have faith that once their liquor license kicks in, these guys will come up with some crazy-interesting and yummy cocktails. I’m thinking a kettle corn Manhattan or a fried pickle dirty martini…

Straw
203 Octavia Street (at Page)
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-971-5653
Twitter: @sfstraw
Facebook: Straw SF

Black Bean Soup + Cilantro-Lime Yogurt Crema with Quesadillas

Well, the first week of the New Year has come and gone. Chances are, those resolutions of eating healthier are starting to feel less bright and shiny than they did on January 2nd. Hmm? Is your New Year's cleanse struggling?

I'm not one for dieting. I'm pretty bad with self-restraint, and as a general rule of thumb, I'm not a believer in hard and fast rules. But, I'll admit, I maybe had one (dozen) too many Christmas cookies this holiday season because my wardrobe has consisted of leggings and flowy tops for a few weeks running now, and my skinny jeans haven't seen the light of day in who knows how long.

My game plan for Mission Fit-into-Jeans is pretty basic: up my fruit and veggie intake, eat out less, and skimp on the dairy. To help execute this plan, I've been scouring the internet for healthy recipes (if you have any favorites, please share!). Some sound like they're recipes for various preparations of cardboard. Others, however, like this Black Bean Soup I found in Bon Appetit are quite appetizing. I adapted it to items I had in my pantry and created a flavorful Cilantro-Lime Yogurt Crema to garnish it. The result was a hearty, satisfying soup, chock-full of vegetables and not an ounce of guilt.

Black Beans

Incidentally, this soup is also a breeze to make, and cheap to boot. (There, you can give yourself a star for being more fiscally responsible in 2011 as well.) The base of the soup is of course, black beans. You can use canned beans to save time, but dried beans are super cheap, and work well as long as you give yourself time to soak them. I soaked my beans overnight.

Peppers + Onions

Sweet red and green peppers, red onion, and garlic are the aromatics of this soup. Colorful, delicious, and full of vitamins. Simply chop them all up and saute in your soup pot with some olive oil until they begin to caramelize and deepen in flavor. Cumin and chili powder add a smoky heat to the mix.

Healthy Healthy

The beans are then added, along with water and a few bay leaves. Then the whole thing just needs to simmer for an hour and a half or so, until the beans are tender. Half of the soup is removed and placed in a blender (or use an immersion blender if you have one), and then added back into the pot. The pureed beans create a lusciously creamy consistency that makes you forget this is a healthy meal.

And, finally, some lime juice is added to the soup to brighten up all the flavors. A drizzle of crema, made with plain yogurt, cilantro, lime, and a spike of cumin is the finishing touch. The Yogurt Crema is cool and tart, a great contrast to the richness of the beans, and also brings out the lime and cumin notes in the soup.

I served the Black Bean Soup with whole wheat quesadillas stuffed with sautéed spinach, mushrooms, and grilled chicken. Some salsa and more of that yogurt crema made great dipping condiments and distracted me from the fact that my quesadilla was sans cheese.

New Year's diet crash and burn averted.

Easy Black Bean Soup

Black Bean Soup + Cilantro-Lime Yogurt
Adapted from Bon Appetit.

This healthy and hearty Black Bean Soup is perfect for wintry days. Garnish with Cilantro-Lime Yogurt, and perhaps some avocado slices and sprigs of cilantro for a bright finish. This soup is even better the next day, and freezes well.

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

1 pound dried black beans (approximately 2 cups)
6 cups water
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium-size red onions, chopped
1 medium-size red bell pepper, chopped
1 medium-size green bell pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon chili powder (add more if you want it spicy)
Juice of 1 lime (reserve 1 tablespoon for yogurt topping)
2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Preparation:

1. Soak beans in water overnight. Drain and set aside.

2. Heat olive oil in a large, thick-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until the oil is hot, but not smoking. Add onions and both bell peppers and sauté until beginning to brown, about 15-20 minutes. Add garlic, cumin, chili powder, and salt; stir a few more minutes.

3. Add 6 cups water, beans, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a low simmer. Cover and let cook for about 1 hour 30 minutes, until beans are tender.

4. Transfer 4 cups of the soup (about half of it) to a blender. Purée until smooth and return to the pot of soup. (You may need to purée the soup in smaller batches -- don't fill the blender more than half way at a time and hold the lid while blending so that it doesn't splatter up and burn you.) Stir in lime juice, and salt & pepper to taste.

5. Ladle soup into bowls and top with a dollop of Cilantro-Lime Yogurt.

Cilantro-Lime Yogurt:

Ingredients:
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Zest of 1 lime
½ teaspoon cumin
Dash of salt and pepper

Preparation:
Mix together all the ingredients and let chill until soup is ready to serve.