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That’s what chef Reina Montenegro is getting after stepping away from her partnership with the popular vegan Filipino restaurant Nick’s on Grand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After opening in South San Francisco in 2016, Nick’s expanded into Daly City and San Francisco’s Mission District; all three locations closed in October. But for Montenegro, this isn’t a tragic end. It’s a good thing. She has rebranded and is focusing on a delivery and takeout model under her own name: \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefreina.com/\">Chef Reina\u003c/a> opened Oct. 20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"news_11837511,arts_13888307\" label=\"More KQED Food Content\"]“Nobody really knew who ‘Nick’ was,” says Montenegro. “I hid behind that brand for so long for so many reasons. This is basically me emerging and accepting that I am the one behind it. There are no boundaries. It’s like a breath of fresh air.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says this year gave her the opportunity to finally, fully own it. With the Nick’s Kitchen brand, her restaurant partners had decision-making power. “I couldn’t really make decisions on my own and I couldn’t really do what I wanted to do,” explains Montenegro. There came a point during the pandemic when she realized they wouldn’t be able to sustain the restaurants if they kept the model the same. Expenses compared to the ventures’ income just didn’t add up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you don’t pivot with the times, you’re going to be left behind,” says Montenegro. “I decided to evolve.” And she decided to make those changes on her own, with an eye towards the trends emerging during the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Understanding that people are looking for more delivery services and ways to cook at home, Chef Reina is an online storefront working out of a ghost kitchen. Delivery drivers around Daly City and the peninsula provide her customers with vegan Filipino takeout, delivery and care packages. In a couple of months, she plans to launch a delivery service for vegan “meats” nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was important for Montenegro to keep her menu focused on vegan Filipino food. “I think it’s a bolder approach and more honest,” she says. “I’m excited to share more of me and my food without the question ‘Who is Nick?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro’s goal has always been to reach the Filipino community in the Bay Area, which she says is super heavy on meat-eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s absolutely no dish out there that doesn’t have meat,” she says. “Filipinos have very high cholesterol. [My] people are dying of diseases, and I created all of these mock meat dishes to mimic these heavy meat dishes as we used to eat. I’m changing tradition here, and people used to get upset. I’m not afraid of that. I’m not trying to do anything but save your life; [I’m] not trying to do anything other than save the planet and animals.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139476\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro.jpg\" alt=\"Reina Montenegro in a red shirt smiling\" width=\"750\" height=\"937\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro.jpg 750w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro-160x200.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reina Montenegro \u003ccite>(Mogli Maureal / Chef Reina)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She also hopes to have her own commissary kitchen by the end of the year. “There’s freedom to do what I want finally, and not hesitate or worry about what a partner or partners will think,” says Montenegro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of her new dishes is vegan beef bulgogi. It’s one Montenegro says no one has made, and she thinks it will be one of her bestsellers. Using meat alternatives, she’s working on a “beef” torta and holiday dishes scheduled to launch this month. Also to come: a dessert menu with leche flan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro sees these alternative dishes as gateways for people who want to transition to vegetarianism and veganism. Because of the pandemic, she’s had a lot of time to play with textures and tastes while d developing the dishes for Chef Reina. “It’s almost like I turned into this crazy mad scientist during Covid,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Montenegro, the most “Reina” dish on the menu is the tocino, which is traditionally cured pork made from the belly of the pig. It was a dish she grew up eating, and it’s her absolute favorite. It’s also one that took a long time to perfect as a vegan version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro wants Chef Reina to be the place where people think the vegan version tastes as good as or better than the original. “It’s my form of culinary activism, through my food,” she says. For her, this new iteration is welcome change—a new beginning on her own terms.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Reina Montenegro is stepping out on her own and rebranding her Filipino vegan food to reflect who she is and wants to be known for.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621555336,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":812},"headData":{"title":"Chef Reina Steps Out of the Shadow Of Nick’s on Grand | KQED","description":"Reina Montenegro is stepping out on her own and rebranding her Filipino vegan food to reflect who she is and wants to be known for.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139460 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139460","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/11/05/chef-reina-steps-out-of-the-shadow-of-nicks-on-grand/","disqusTitle":"Chef Reina Steps Out of the Shadow Of Nick’s on Grand","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139460/chef-reina-steps-out-of-the-shadow-of-nicks-on-grand","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Freedom. That’s what chef Reina Montenegro is getting after stepping away from her partnership with the popular vegan Filipino restaurant Nick’s on Grand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After opening in South San Francisco in 2016, Nick’s expanded into Daly City and San Francisco’s Mission District; all three locations closed in October. But for Montenegro, this isn’t a tragic end. It’s a good thing. She has rebranded and is focusing on a delivery and takeout model under her own name: \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefreina.com/\">Chef Reina\u003c/a> opened Oct. 20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11837511,arts_13888307","label":"More KQED Food Content "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Nobody really knew who ‘Nick’ was,” says Montenegro. “I hid behind that brand for so long for so many reasons. This is basically me emerging and accepting that I am the one behind it. There are no boundaries. It’s like a breath of fresh air.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says this year gave her the opportunity to finally, fully own it. With the Nick’s Kitchen brand, her restaurant partners had decision-making power. “I couldn’t really make decisions on my own and I couldn’t really do what I wanted to do,” explains Montenegro. There came a point during the pandemic when she realized they wouldn’t be able to sustain the restaurants if they kept the model the same. Expenses compared to the ventures’ income just didn’t add up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you don’t pivot with the times, you’re going to be left behind,” says Montenegro. “I decided to evolve.” And she decided to make those changes on her own, with an eye towards the trends emerging during the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Understanding that people are looking for more delivery services and ways to cook at home, Chef Reina is an online storefront working out of a ghost kitchen. Delivery drivers around Daly City and the peninsula provide her customers with vegan Filipino takeout, delivery and care packages. In a couple of months, she plans to launch a delivery service for vegan “meats” nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was important for Montenegro to keep her menu focused on vegan Filipino food. “I think it’s a bolder approach and more honest,” she says. “I’m excited to share more of me and my food without the question ‘Who is Nick?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro’s goal has always been to reach the Filipino community in the Bay Area, which she says is super heavy on meat-eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s absolutely no dish out there that doesn’t have meat,” she says. “Filipinos have very high cholesterol. [My] people are dying of diseases, and I created all of these mock meat dishes to mimic these heavy meat dishes as we used to eat. I’m changing tradition here, and people used to get upset. I’m not afraid of that. I’m not trying to do anything but save your life; [I’m] not trying to do anything other than save the planet and animals.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139476\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro.jpg\" alt=\"Reina Montenegro in a red shirt smiling\" width=\"750\" height=\"937\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro.jpg 750w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/ReinaMontenegro-160x200.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reina Montenegro \u003ccite>(Mogli Maureal / Chef Reina)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She also hopes to have her own commissary kitchen by the end of the year. “There’s freedom to do what I want finally, and not hesitate or worry about what a partner or partners will think,” says Montenegro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of her new dishes is vegan beef bulgogi. It’s one Montenegro says no one has made, and she thinks it will be one of her bestsellers. Using meat alternatives, she’s working on a “beef” torta and holiday dishes scheduled to launch this month. Also to come: a dessert menu with leche flan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro sees these alternative dishes as gateways for people who want to transition to vegetarianism and veganism. Because of the pandemic, she’s had a lot of time to play with textures and tastes while d developing the dishes for Chef Reina. “It’s almost like I turned into this crazy mad scientist during Covid,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Montenegro, the most “Reina” dish on the menu is the tocino, which is traditionally cured pork made from the belly of the pig. It was a dish she grew up eating, and it’s her absolute favorite. It’s also one that took a long time to perfect as a vegan version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Montenegro wants Chef Reina to be the place where people think the vegan version tastes as good as or better than the original. “It’s my form of culinary activism, through my food,” she says. For her, this new iteration is welcome change—a new beginning on her own terms.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139460/chef-reina-steps-out-of-the-shadow-of-nicks-on-grand","authors":["11689"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_17027","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16601","bayareabites_16515","bayareabites_17025","bayareabites_17023","bayareabites_17021","bayareabites_17022","bayareabites_16860","bayareabites_17026","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_17024"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139475","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_138778":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138778","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138778","score":null,"sort":[1596647284000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","title":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home","publishDate":1596647284,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>After some years of looking for a permanent space, Lion Dance Cafe, the brick-and-mortar concept from C-Y Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge has finally found a home in downtown Oakland. Taking over the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/138052/covid-related-bay-area-restaurant-permanent-closures-in-june-and-july-so-far\">former Liba Falafel\u003c/a> space on 17th Street, Chia and Stanbridge have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cychia/lion-dance-cafe-by-s-m-vegan\">kicked off a fundraiser\u003c/a> for a final push toward opening their vegan Singaporean restaurant, set to open for service in September.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag=\"foodnews\" label=\"More Food News.\"]\u003cbr>\nFor the past few years, the duo has been popping up at different locations across the Bay Area as \u003ca href=\"https://smvegans.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">S+M Vegan\u003c/a>, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> including most recently at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland\u003c/span>. When the bar and eatery shut its doors after shelter-in-place orders in March, Chia and Stanbridge’s business came to a halt as well. “We realized that we were going to have to find a different solution for our income [because] at the same time, catering was getting cancelled left and right,” Chia explained adding that catering orders made up a majority of their revenue. “The pop-ups were definitely significant but they were more test menu items, [ways to] get the word out, connect with people but catering was the bread and butter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138773\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon.jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Lion Dance Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo found a temporary kitchen and outpost at Tacos Oscar, Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’ efficient storage container operation in Oakland. While Michel and Weiss sorted out their own restaurant’s future in the wake of the pandemic, S+M took it over from late March through late May for a take-out menu that customers pre-ordered for pick-up and delivery. “[The pre-order model] was out of concern for our customer's safety. We don't want lines to form in front and this way,” said Chia. Despite the pandemic, S+M found great success. “The last day, we sold out of 400 items in under 8 minutes. That's when we realized we can really keep doing this if only we had our own space with more room to safely hire people,” she added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At their new location, Chia and Stanbridge are joined by a third partner, Rachel Metcalf. The team was able to secure the lease on the restaurant space by using their savings and are turning to Kickstarter to fill the rest of the gaps. The new space, which Chia describes as turnkey and not in need of major work, is on track for a September opening though permits and statewide orders on the pandemic will play a role. Chia hopes the new space means more crowd favorites like their beloved shaobing sandwiches, laksas and new items on the menu for customers who’ve stuck with the pop-up as it hopped around town. “There's so many things we want to show people,” she said. “We're hoping to eventually apply for a beer and wine license and do sambal micheladas.” By this time next year, Chia hopes to add an ice machine to make desserts from her childhood, like ice kachang and burbur cha cha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Lion Dance Cafe is taking up the over the former Liba Falafel space on 17th Street in Oakland. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621633678,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":547},"headData":{"title":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home | KQED","description":"Lion Dance Cafe is taking up the over the former Liba Falafel space on 17th Street in Oakland. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"138778 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138778","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/08/05/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home/","disqusTitle":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home","path":"/bayareabites/138778/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>After some years of looking for a permanent space, Lion Dance Cafe, the brick-and-mortar concept from C-Y Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge has finally found a home in downtown Oakland. Taking over the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/138052/covid-related-bay-area-restaurant-permanent-closures-in-june-and-july-so-far\">former Liba Falafel\u003c/a> space on 17th Street, Chia and Stanbridge have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cychia/lion-dance-cafe-by-s-m-vegan\">kicked off a fundraiser\u003c/a> for a final push toward opening their vegan Singaporean restaurant, set to open for service in September.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"foodnews","label":"More Food News. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nFor the past few years, the duo has been popping up at different locations across the Bay Area as \u003ca href=\"https://smvegans.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">S+M Vegan\u003c/a>, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> including most recently at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland\u003c/span>. When the bar and eatery shut its doors after shelter-in-place orders in March, Chia and Stanbridge’s business came to a halt as well. “We realized that we were going to have to find a different solution for our income [because] at the same time, catering was getting cancelled left and right,” Chia explained adding that catering orders made up a majority of their revenue. “The pop-ups were definitely significant but they were more test menu items, [ways to] get the word out, connect with people but catering was the bread and butter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138773\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon.jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Lion Dance Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo found a temporary kitchen and outpost at Tacos Oscar, Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’ efficient storage container operation in Oakland. While Michel and Weiss sorted out their own restaurant’s future in the wake of the pandemic, S+M took it over from late March through late May for a take-out menu that customers pre-ordered for pick-up and delivery. “[The pre-order model] was out of concern for our customer's safety. We don't want lines to form in front and this way,” said Chia. Despite the pandemic, S+M found great success. “The last day, we sold out of 400 items in under 8 minutes. That's when we realized we can really keep doing this if only we had our own space with more room to safely hire people,” she added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At their new location, Chia and Stanbridge are joined by a third partner, Rachel Metcalf. The team was able to secure the lease on the restaurant space by using their savings and are turning to Kickstarter to fill the rest of the gaps. The new space, which Chia describes as turnkey and not in need of major work, is on track for a September opening though permits and statewide orders on the pandemic will play a role. Chia hopes the new space means more crowd favorites like their beloved shaobing sandwiches, laksas and new items on the menu for customers who’ve stuck with the pop-up as it hopped around town. “There's so many things we want to show people,” she said. “We're hoping to eventually apply for a beer and wine license and do sambal micheladas.” By this time next year, Chia hopes to add an ice machine to make desserts from her childhood, like ice kachang and burbur cha cha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138778/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16909","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_16908","bayareabites_14042","bayareabites_16907","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138772","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136299":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136299","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136299","score":null,"sort":[1582153493000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"flavors-worth-finding-potato-chips-in-sandwiches-and-korean-stews","title":"Flavors Worth Finding: Potato Chips in Sandwiches and Korean Stews","publishDate":1582153493,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136217,bayareabites_136123,bayareabites_136067' label='Some more Flavors Worth Finding']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Miss Tomato's Take on Tuna\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Your basic dorm-room stoner munchie recipe follows a simple formula: just cram together whatever you've got in the fridge, throw it in the oven or on some bread, and call it good. It rarely is. But every once in a while, some inspired accident rises to the level of “edible.” Or, even rarer still, “tasty.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such is the case with the \u003cstrong>crunchy tuna sandwich\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://misstomatos.com/\">Miss Tomato Sandwich Shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Thrown into its proverbial blender of randomness is tuna salad, potato chips, pickles, wasabi mayo, and arugula, on a soft roll. It shouldn't work. It does. I've gone back to it again and again, with each bite asking myself, “Why aren't potato chips a required addition to all sandwiches?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am not alone. On a recent afternoon, I counted 40 people crammed into the small, 250-square-foot shop on Market Street, waiting for their order. The sandwich is only six inches long, and costs $10, and takes about 15 minutes to arrive on crowded days. But on the first bite, when the arugula and wasabi come together to undergird, in grown-up fashion, the childhood comfort food of tuna fish, all is forgotten. I've tried to replicate it myself at home, to no avail. And so back to the sandwich shop I go. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gabe Meline, Senior Arts Editor\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136336\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136336\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge will soon open up a Singaporean brick and mortar restaurant in the Dimond district.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-1020x1275.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge will soon open up a Singaporean brick and mortar restaurant in the Dimond district. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of S+M Vegan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>S+M Vegan's Rhapsodic Shaobing\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I’ve been meaning to go to one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.snmvegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">S+M Vegan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s pop-ups at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland ever since I heard about their sandwiches from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-best-sandwich-in-the-Bay-Area-is-vegan-14497120.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soleil Ho\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>’s food critic. When I finally sampled last Tuesday’s \u003cstrong>shaobing sandwich No. 21\u003c/strong>, I damn near burst into tears. With my first bite, I knew I had met my new favorite sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every layer of No. 21 was so thoughtfully prepared: a golden sesame flatbread, with an airy interior and a shattering crust, sandwiching slices of meaty and salty Sichuan peppercorned seitan coated in a mellow soymilk thousand-island dressing. The crisp pickled cabbage with black bean delivered a welcome acidic kick to blast through the fatty richness. And the textural cherry-on-top (or cherry-in-middle): a layer of still-crunchy potato chips preemptively tucked in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m itching for the opening of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.liondancecafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lion Dance Café\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge’s forthcoming Singaporean brick and mortar in the Dimond district, another ecstatic addition to Oakland’s vegan culinary moment. I sincerely hope shaobing sandwich No. 21 gets a much-deserved spot on the café’s regular menu, because this rhapsodic sandwich won’t be leaving my heart anytime soon. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Olivia Won, Associate Producer Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Less Known Korean at Moo Bong Ri\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Spur-of-the-moment dinners after work with colleagues are always great. Someone picks a well-vetted restaurant everyone will love, and people talk, laugh, eat and leave with full bellies, wide smiles and lighter wallets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the kind of night I thought was in store when a friend and I left the office. After parking at our first choice proved impossible, we picked a restaurant neither of us had been to. Up the block from Jack in the Box in a strip mall-esque corner in Oakland was a Korean restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/moo-bong-ri-korean-restaurant-oakland\">Moo Bong Ri\u003c/a>, with small bursts of decor. The space was homey and cozy. We’ve had Korean food before, so we figured it’d be a safe bet for two hungry people who just want to eat something good. We were wrong. In a good way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">None of the usual Korean dishes one might expect were on the menu. Soups, stews, pig's trotters, intestines; yeah, you’re not gonna find this at the typical Korean BBQ spot. Afterward, I learned that Moo Bong Ri is known for their soondae, Korean blood sausages. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We had the \u003cstrong>spicy baby octopus\u003c/strong> and the\u003cstrong> beef short rib stew\u003c/strong>. The baby octopus was served in a red beef broth with rice cakes and flour noodles. It was spicy, sweet and savory—a nighttime carnival of flavors. The short rib stew was smooth and refreshing; filling, but not heavy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ll go back again with the memory of this meal, but the menu is special enough so that any time I revisit Moo Bong Ri, it’ll feel like the first time. —\u003ci>Chinwe Oniah, Arts Video Intern\u003c/i>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1582153493,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":848},"headData":{"title":"Flavors Worth Finding: Potato Chips in Sandwiches and Korean Stews | KQED","description":"Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly. Miss Tomato's Take on Tuna Your basic dorm-room stoner munchie recipe follows a simple formula:","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136299 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136299","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/19/flavors-worth-finding-potato-chips-in-sandwiches-and-korean-stews/","disqusTitle":"Flavors Worth Finding: Potato Chips in Sandwiches and Korean Stews","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136299/flavors-worth-finding-potato-chips-in-sandwiches-and-korean-stews","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136217,bayareabites_136123,bayareabites_136067","label":"Some more Flavors Worth Finding "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Miss Tomato's Take on Tuna\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Your basic dorm-room stoner munchie recipe follows a simple formula: just cram together whatever you've got in the fridge, throw it in the oven or on some bread, and call it good. It rarely is. But every once in a while, some inspired accident rises to the level of “edible.” Or, even rarer still, “tasty.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such is the case with the \u003cstrong>crunchy tuna sandwich\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://misstomatos.com/\">Miss Tomato Sandwich Shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco. Thrown into its proverbial blender of randomness is tuna salad, potato chips, pickles, wasabi mayo, and arugula, on a soft roll. It shouldn't work. It does. I've gone back to it again and again, with each bite asking myself, “Why aren't potato chips a required addition to all sandwiches?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am not alone. On a recent afternoon, I counted 40 people crammed into the small, 250-square-foot shop on Market Street, waiting for their order. The sandwich is only six inches long, and costs $10, and takes about 15 minutes to arrive on crowded days. But on the first bite, when the arugula and wasabi come together to undergird, in grown-up fashion, the childhood comfort food of tuna fish, all is forgotten. I've tried to replicate it myself at home, to no avail. And so back to the sandwich shop I go. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gabe Meline, Senior Arts Editor\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136336\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136336\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-800x1000.jpg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge will soon open up a Singaporean brick and mortar restaurant in the Dimond district.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/shaobingno21smveganpopuplionsdancecafeoakland-1020x1275.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge will soon open up a Singaporean brick and mortar restaurant in the Dimond district. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of S+M Vegan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>S+M Vegan's Rhapsodic Shaobing\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I’ve been meaning to go to one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.snmvegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">S+M Vegan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s pop-ups at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland ever since I heard about their sandwiches from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-best-sandwich-in-the-Bay-Area-is-vegan-14497120.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soleil Ho\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>’s food critic. When I finally sampled last Tuesday’s \u003cstrong>shaobing sandwich No. 21\u003c/strong>, I damn near burst into tears. With my first bite, I knew I had met my new favorite sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every layer of No. 21 was so thoughtfully prepared: a golden sesame flatbread, with an airy interior and a shattering crust, sandwiching slices of meaty and salty Sichuan peppercorned seitan coated in a mellow soymilk thousand-island dressing. The crisp pickled cabbage with black bean delivered a welcome acidic kick to blast through the fatty richness. And the textural cherry-on-top (or cherry-in-middle): a layer of still-crunchy potato chips preemptively tucked in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m itching for the opening of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.liondancecafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lion Dance Café\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge’s forthcoming Singaporean brick and mortar in the Dimond district, another ecstatic addition to Oakland’s vegan culinary moment. I sincerely hope shaobing sandwich No. 21 gets a much-deserved spot on the café’s regular menu, because this rhapsodic sandwich won’t be leaving my heart anytime soon. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Olivia Won, Associate Producer Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Less Known Korean at Moo Bong Ri\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Spur-of-the-moment dinners after work with colleagues are always great. Someone picks a well-vetted restaurant everyone will love, and people talk, laugh, eat and leave with full bellies, wide smiles and lighter wallets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the kind of night I thought was in store when a friend and I left the office. After parking at our first choice proved impossible, we picked a restaurant neither of us had been to. Up the block from Jack in the Box in a strip mall-esque corner in Oakland was a Korean restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/moo-bong-ri-korean-restaurant-oakland\">Moo Bong Ri\u003c/a>, with small bursts of decor. The space was homey and cozy. We’ve had Korean food before, so we figured it’d be a safe bet for two hungry people who just want to eat something good. We were wrong. In a good way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">None of the usual Korean dishes one might expect were on the menu. Soups, stews, pig's trotters, intestines; yeah, you’re not gonna find this at the typical Korean BBQ spot. Afterward, I learned that Moo Bong Ri is known for their soondae, Korean blood sausages. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We had the \u003cstrong>spicy baby octopus\u003c/strong> and the\u003cstrong> beef short rib stew\u003c/strong>. The baby octopus was served in a red beef broth with rice cakes and flour noodles. It was spicy, sweet and savory—a nighttime carnival of flavors. The short rib stew was smooth and refreshing; filling, but not heavy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ll go back again with the memory of this meal, but the menu is special enough so that any time I revisit Moo Bong Ri, it’ll feel like the first time. —\u003ci>Chinwe Oniah, Arts Video Intern\u003c/i>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136299/flavors-worth-finding-potato-chips-in-sandwiches-and-korean-stews","authors":["5083"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_12468","bayareabites_938","bayareabites_2964","bayareabites_9895","bayareabites_4158","bayareabites_1956","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_13974"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136337","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136244":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136244","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136244","score":null,"sort":[1581460218000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","title":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'","publishDate":1581460218,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136250' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg' 'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Oakland-based chef and author’s newest cookbook is an ode to the glory of vegetables.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1581467814,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":760},"headData":{"title":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom' | KQED","description":"The Oakland-based chef and author’s newest cookbook is an ode to the glory of vegetables.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136244 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136244","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/11/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom/","disqusTitle":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136250","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg","label":"'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week'"},"numeric":["'label='Cook","up","chef","Bryant","Terry's","Beans","and","Broccoli","sandwich","for","dinner","this","week'"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1931","bayareabites_9094","bayareabites_112","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_236","bayareabites_15850","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_16399"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136246","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136250":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136250","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136250","score":null,"sort":[1581460217000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bryant-terrys-big-beans-buns-and-broccoli-rabe","title":"Bryant Terry's Big Beans, Buns and Broccoli Rabe","publishDate":1581460217,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following recipe is reprinted with permission from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780399581045\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by the Bryant Terry, copyright© 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photography copyright: Ed Anderson © 2020. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136244' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Bryant-Terry-by-Celeste-Noche-1020x1040.jpg' label='The Making of Bryant Terry's Vegetable Kingdom ']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This recipe has everything I want in a good sandwich— toasted homemade bread, hearty protein, and broccoli rabe. That’s right — I declare roasted broccoli rabe florets as the new default vegetable for sandwiches, lettuce be damned. My friend Soleil Ho, restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, would likely agree — In her words, “I hate lettuce, but I really hate hot lettuce.” This recipe is inspired by bunny chow, a South African dish made by hollowing out a loaf of white bread and filling it with curry. Although the original version was vegetarian, it is more common to find bread stuffed with meaty curries these days. The first time I had bunny chow was at the now-closed South African restaurant Madiba in my old Brooklyn neighborhood. When I had it a second time, prepared by the People’s Kitchen Collective at the Museum of the African Diaspora’s first Diaspora Dinner, I was blown away. The popular vegetarian version of bunny chow uses lima beans. I need a meatier and heartier bean for this dish, so I use corona beans — huge, thick-skinned beans with a creamy interior. They work even better than I could have imagined. If you can’t find them, you can use cannellini beans instead, but do yourself a favor and order a bag of Royal Corona beans from Rancho Gordo. If you don’t have time to make the buns, toasted vegan potato buns will work just fine. Lastly, while this is a sandwich, I imagine folks digging in with a fork and knife.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136274\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg\" alt=\"Chef Bryant Terry's big beans, buns and broccoli rabe rabe packs protein and texture between a teff and flour bun.\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1536px) 100vw, 1536px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Bryant Terry's big beans, buns and broccoli rabe rabe packs protein and texture between a teff and flour bun. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson © 2020)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Big Beans, Buns and Broccoli Rabe\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Royal corona beans, tomatoes, persillade\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Makes 6 servings \u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All- purpose flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup teff flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup almond flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 tablespoons raw cane sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 teaspoons instant yeast\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¾ teaspoon fine sea salt\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup warm water\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup melted coconut oil, plus more for greasing the bowl and work surface and brushing the buns\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Broccoli rabe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 ½ pounds broccoli rabe, thick stems trimmed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Beans\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup dried corona beans, picked over and soaked in water overnight\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup finely diced yellow onion\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 garlic clove, minced\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon Berbere Spice Blend\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon tomato paste\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 (14.5-ounce) can \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">diced tomatoes, pureed \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in a blender\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1½ cups diced peeled Yukon gold potatoes(1 large or 2 small)\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">½ cup Persillade, for garnish\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flaky sea salt and freshly ground white pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Instructions\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the bread: In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, yeast, and salt. Pour in the warm water and the coconut oil. Starting with a wooden spoon and then using your hands, mix to form a shaggy dough. Transfer to a clean countertop and knead to form a soft, stretchy ball of dough, 5 to 7 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a towel, wipe the bowl clean, then lightly grease it with oil. Place the dough in the bowl, loosely cover with a clean kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm area until the dough doubles in size, about 1 hour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lightly grease a clean work surface. Turn the dough out onto the surface and gently punch it down to deflate it. Divide the dough into six equal pieces and roll each into a taut ball\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lightly grease a baking sheet and space the balls of dough evenly across the pan. Gently flatten the tops of the dough, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and set aside until the buns have doubled in size, about 1½ hours.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Preheat the oven to 350°F.Bake the risen buns until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Brush the buns with coconut oil and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Increase the oven temperature to 425°F.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the broccoli rabe: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fill a medium saucepan a little over halfway with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the salt and the broccoli rabe and simmer for 1 minute. Quickly remove from the heat and drain. Dump the broccoli rabe onto a clean kitchen towel and gently squeeze to absorb some of the moisture. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a large bowl, add the olive oil and a pinch of salt, and toss. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and roast until the florets are tender and the leaves are starting to crisp slightly at the edges, about 20 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the beans: Drain and rinse the beans. Place them in a medium saucepan and add enough water to cover by 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove the lid, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the beans are softening but still slightly firm, 1 to 1½ hours. Stir in the salt and simmer for 10 minutes more. Remove from the heat and let the beans cool in their liquid for 1 hour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid, and set both aside.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the beans are cooling, in a large skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion, season with salt, and sauté until starting to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the berbere spice blend and tomato paste and stir to thoroughly combine. Add the tomato puree, potatoes, beans, and 2 cups of the reserved bean cooking liquid. Simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 45 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To serve, slice the buns in half horizontally, then toast them to your liking. Place the bottom half of each bun on an individual plate. Pile a handful (about ¼ cup) of the broccoli rabe on the bun, spoon a heaping serving of the beans on top of the broccoli rabe, and garnish with persillade. Sprinkle with flaky salt and white pepper, then serve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch6>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Bryant Terry’s recommended song: “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” by Drake and Future from \u003cem>What a Time to Be Alive\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/h6>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A sandwich featuring homemade bread, hearty protein, and broccoli rabe from the Oakland chef and author.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1581464987,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1149},"headData":{"title":"Bryant Terry's Big Beans, Buns and Broccoli Rabe | KQED","description":"A sandwich featuring homemade bread, hearty protein, and broccoli rabe from the Oakland chef and author.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136250 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136250","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/11/bryant-terrys-big-beans-buns-and-broccoli-rabe/","disqusTitle":"Bryant Terry's Big Beans, Buns and Broccoli Rabe","path":"/bayareabites/136250/bryant-terrys-big-beans-buns-and-broccoli-rabe","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following recipe is reprinted with permission from \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780399581045\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by the Bryant Terry, copyright© 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photography copyright: Ed Anderson © 2020. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136244","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Bryant-Terry-by-Celeste-Noche-1020x1040.jpg","label":"label='The Making of Bryant Terry's Vegetable Kingdom '"},"numeric":["label='The","Making","of","Bryant","Terry's","Vegetable","Kingdom","'"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This recipe has everything I want in a good sandwich— toasted homemade bread, hearty protein, and broccoli rabe. That’s right — I declare roasted broccoli rabe florets as the new default vegetable for sandwiches, lettuce be damned. My friend Soleil Ho, restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, would likely agree — In her words, “I hate lettuce, but I really hate hot lettuce.” This recipe is inspired by bunny chow, a South African dish made by hollowing out a loaf of white bread and filling it with curry. Although the original version was vegetarian, it is more common to find bread stuffed with meaty curries these days. The first time I had bunny chow was at the now-closed South African restaurant Madiba in my old Brooklyn neighborhood. When I had it a second time, prepared by the People’s Kitchen Collective at the Museum of the African Diaspora’s first Diaspora Dinner, I was blown away. The popular vegetarian version of bunny chow uses lima beans. I need a meatier and heartier bean for this dish, so I use corona beans — huge, thick-skinned beans with a creamy interior. They work even better than I could have imagined. If you can’t find them, you can use cannellini beans instead, but do yourself a favor and order a bag of Royal Corona beans from Rancho Gordo. If you don’t have time to make the buns, toasted vegan potato buns will work just fine. Lastly, while this is a sandwich, I imagine folks digging in with a fork and knife.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136274\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg\" alt=\"Chef Bryant Terry's big beans, buns and broccoli rabe rabe packs protein and texture between a teff and flour bun.\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1536px) 100vw, 1536px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Bryant Terry's big beans, buns and broccoli rabe rabe packs protein and texture between a teff and flour bun. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson © 2020)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Big Beans, Buns and Broccoli Rabe\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Royal corona beans, tomatoes, persillade\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Makes 6 servings \u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All- purpose flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup teff flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup almond flour\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 tablespoons raw cane sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 teaspoons instant yeast\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¾ teaspoon fine sea salt\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup warm water\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">¼ cup melted coconut oil, plus more for greasing the bowl and work surface and brushing the buns\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Broccoli rabe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 ½ pounds broccoli rabe, thick stems trimmed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Beans\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup dried corona beans, picked over and soaked in water overnight\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 cup finely diced yellow onion\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 garlic clove, minced\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon Berbere Spice Blend\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 tablespoon tomato paste\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1 (14.5-ounce) can \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">diced tomatoes, pureed \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in a blender\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1½ cups diced peeled Yukon gold potatoes(1 large or 2 small)\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">½ cup Persillade, for garnish\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flaky sea salt and freshly ground white pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Instructions\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the bread: In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, yeast, and salt. Pour in the warm water and the coconut oil. Starting with a wooden spoon and then using your hands, mix to form a shaggy dough. Transfer to a clean countertop and knead to form a soft, stretchy ball of dough, 5 to 7 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a towel, wipe the bowl clean, then lightly grease it with oil. Place the dough in the bowl, loosely cover with a clean kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm area until the dough doubles in size, about 1 hour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lightly grease a clean work surface. Turn the dough out onto the surface and gently punch it down to deflate it. Divide the dough into six equal pieces and roll each into a taut ball\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lightly grease a baking sheet and space the balls of dough evenly across the pan. Gently flatten the tops of the dough, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and set aside until the buns have doubled in size, about 1½ hours.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Preheat the oven to 350°F.Bake the risen buns until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Brush the buns with coconut oil and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Increase the oven temperature to 425°F.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the broccoli rabe: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fill a medium saucepan a little over halfway with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the salt and the broccoli rabe and simmer for 1 minute. Quickly remove from the heat and drain. Dump the broccoli rabe onto a clean kitchen towel and gently squeeze to absorb some of the moisture. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a large bowl, add the olive oil and a pinch of salt, and toss. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and roast until the florets are tender and the leaves are starting to crisp slightly at the edges, about 20 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Make the beans: Drain and rinse the beans. Place them in a medium saucepan and add enough water to cover by 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove the lid, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the beans are softening but still slightly firm, 1 to 1½ hours. Stir in the salt and simmer for 10 minutes more. Remove from the heat and let the beans cool in their liquid for 1 hour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid, and set both aside.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the beans are cooling, in a large skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion, season with salt, and sauté until starting to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the berbere spice blend and tomato paste and stir to thoroughly combine. Add the tomato puree, potatoes, beans, and 2 cups of the reserved bean cooking liquid. Simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 45 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To serve, slice the buns in half horizontally, then toast them to your liking. Place the bottom half of each bun on an individual plate. Pile a handful (about ¼ cup) of the broccoli rabe on the bun, spoon a heaping serving of the beans on top of the broccoli rabe, and garnish with persillade. Sprinkle with flaky salt and white pepper, then serve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch6>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Bryant Terry’s recommended song: “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” by Drake and Future from \u003cem>What a Time to Be Alive\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/h6>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136250/bryant-terrys-big-beans-buns-and-broccoli-rabe","authors":["5083"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_1931","bayareabites_9094","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_236","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_16399"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136245","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136148","score":null,"sort":[1579745548000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","publishDate":1579745548,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7T8qdVAcOl/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6qqxF0B6xw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BECD5fbERqI/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6RD-tkgY9o/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1579915254,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades | KQED","description":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136148 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/22/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades/","disqusTitle":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B7T8qdVAcOl"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6qqxF0B6xw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BECD5fbERqI"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6RD-tkgY9o"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13931","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9714","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_1180","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_13973"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136153","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136123":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136123","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136123","score":null,"sort":[1579647633000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"flavors-worth-finding-charred-cauliflower-dungeness-crab-and-mole-for-brunch","title":"Flavors Worth Finding: Charred Cauliflower, Dungeness Crab and Mole for Brunch","publishDate":1579647633,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_24758,bayareabites_133874' label='Get a bite of Roasted Cauliflower and Dungeness crab at home']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cauliflower Delights\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I still think about the first Tacos Oscar taco I ever had. It was a charred broccoli and peanut salsa situation I devoured some years ago when the restaurant was still a pop-up that roamed around Oakland. The deliciously inventive combination is a signature of Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss, whose vegan tacos are never an afterthought or a concession to appease the Bay’s non-meat-eating diners. The duo behind the restaurant have a knack for making a star out of a vegetable some might otherwise pass up, pairing it with slaws and salsas that compliment rather than drench and hide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cauliflower taco I had the other night at Tacos Oscar is a prime example. Cauliflower takes well to direct heat—it chars beautifully, its florets acquire a satisfying crisp while the stems sweeten and soften. On top of their handmade tortillas, Michel and Weiss dress the toasted cauliflower with a red pickled cabbage slaw, cilantro and warming salsa macha whose crushed peanuts add more texture than loud, peanut flavor. A satisfying taco with every bite. The fact that it’s vegan is a parenthetical. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dungeness Crab with Garlic Butter to Spare\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ever since crab season opened up this winter, I’ve been drooling over the Instagram feed of Chef Smelly, who prepares locally sourced, sustainably caught wild Dungeness crab. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I finally made a plan to check out his pop up, Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food, inside Au Lounge Oakland in Uptown. The photocopied menu you get at the door includes all kinds of delicious-sounding combos of crab, shrimp, beef and oysters. But my family of three was all about the crab. We ordered a whole dungeness à la carte drenched in chopped garlic blooming in butter, along with a side of the Creole-spiced fries—also dipped in melted garlic butter. We got our order to go, and the crab did not disappoint. Only, once home, I regretted we didn’t get the trademark garlic noodles that come with most of Smelly’s combos. (Truth be told, I was trying to save a few bucks too.) I quickly assembled a pot of noodles at home and dumped them in the left-over butter, garlic and crab scraps. Divine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B66dxk1hhk9/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ve read reviews and heard about the long lines at Smelly’s, so I was relieved when we showed up to find only a half-filled bar and one person in line. But don’t let that fool you, we still ended up waiting more than an hour for a to-go order, not ideal when you got a hungry nine-year-old kid in tow after basketball practice. In the end, it was still worth the wait\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kelly Whalen, Senior Digital Video Producer, Arts & Culture\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='checkplease_11871' label='Catch Check Please! at Los Moles']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mole Pipián for Brunch and Memories\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On weekends, there’s nothing I want more than a breakfast I can enjoy with intention. That Saturday morning meal is to be savored slowly, and the all-you-can-eat brunch buffet at Los Moles provides tenfold. The first non-negotiable item for me is a mug of their café de olla—coffee brewed with canela, chocolate, piloncillo and orange rinds. The spicy-sweet brew cuts the grogginess of any Friday night stupor and prepares your stomach for the feast ahead. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7d8UFep50i/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And while I have fever dreams about the entire spread—the giant bubbling pots of menudo and pozole, the seven-plus varieties of mole, the handmade corn tortillas, the vats of carne machaca and carnitas—the centerpiece of this Saturday morning tradition is their mole pipián. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pale green and stewed with tender shredded chicken, Los Moles’ nutty, vibrant pipián made of roasted pepitas and seed varieties tantalizes. I recently learned that my great grandmother specialized in a mole pipián made from grinding toasted maíz, pepita, and sesame. And while the recipe was lost between generations, I hold on to that story with every bite I take of Los Moles’ pipián. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Lina Blanco, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Digital Manager of Engagement, KQED Arts & Culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1579662833,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":798},"headData":{"title":"Flavors Worth Finding: Charred Cauliflower, Dungeness Crab and Mole for Brunch | KQED","description":"Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly. Cauliflower Delights I still think about the first Tacos","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136123 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136123","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/21/flavors-worth-finding-charred-cauliflower-dungeness-crab-and-mole-for-brunch/","disqusTitle":"Flavors Worth Finding: Charred Cauliflower, Dungeness Crab and Mole for Brunch","path":"/bayareabites/136123/flavors-worth-finding-charred-cauliflower-dungeness-crab-and-mole-for-brunch","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_24758,bayareabites_133874","label":"Get a bite of Roasted Cauliflower and Dungeness crab at home "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cauliflower Delights\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I still think about the first Tacos Oscar taco I ever had. It was a charred broccoli and peanut salsa situation I devoured some years ago when the restaurant was still a pop-up that roamed around Oakland. The deliciously inventive combination is a signature of Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss, whose vegan tacos are never an afterthought or a concession to appease the Bay’s non-meat-eating diners. The duo behind the restaurant have a knack for making a star out of a vegetable some might otherwise pass up, pairing it with slaws and salsas that compliment rather than drench and hide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cauliflower taco I had the other night at Tacos Oscar is a prime example. Cauliflower takes well to direct heat—it chars beautifully, its florets acquire a satisfying crisp while the stems sweeten and soften. On top of their handmade tortillas, Michel and Weiss dress the toasted cauliflower with a red pickled cabbage slaw, cilantro and warming salsa macha whose crushed peanuts add more texture than loud, peanut flavor. A satisfying taco with every bite. The fact that it’s vegan is a parenthetical. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dungeness Crab with Garlic Butter to Spare\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ever since crab season opened up this winter, I’ve been drooling over the Instagram feed of Chef Smelly, who prepares locally sourced, sustainably caught wild Dungeness crab. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I finally made a plan to check out his pop up, Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food, inside Au Lounge Oakland in Uptown. The photocopied menu you get at the door includes all kinds of delicious-sounding combos of crab, shrimp, beef and oysters. But my family of three was all about the crab. We ordered a whole dungeness à la carte drenched in chopped garlic blooming in butter, along with a side of the Creole-spiced fries—also dipped in melted garlic butter. We got our order to go, and the crab did not disappoint. Only, once home, I regretted we didn’t get the trademark garlic noodles that come with most of Smelly’s combos. (Truth be told, I was trying to save a few bucks too.) I quickly assembled a pot of noodles at home and dumped them in the left-over butter, garlic and crab scraps. Divine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B66dxk1hhk9"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ve read reviews and heard about the long lines at Smelly’s, so I was relieved when we showed up to find only a half-filled bar and one person in line. But don’t let that fool you, we still ended up waiting more than an hour for a to-go order, not ideal when you got a hungry nine-year-old kid in tow after basketball practice. In the end, it was still worth the wait\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kelly Whalen, Senior Digital Video Producer, Arts & Culture\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"checkplease_11871","label":"Catch Check Please! at Los Moles "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mole Pipián for Brunch and Memories\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On weekends, there’s nothing I want more than a breakfast I can enjoy with intention. That Saturday morning meal is to be savored slowly, and the all-you-can-eat brunch buffet at Los Moles provides tenfold. The first non-negotiable item for me is a mug of their café de olla—coffee brewed with canela, chocolate, piloncillo and orange rinds. The spicy-sweet brew cuts the grogginess of any Friday night stupor and prepares your stomach for the feast ahead. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B7d8UFep50i"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And while I have fever dreams about the entire spread—the giant bubbling pots of menudo and pozole, the seven-plus varieties of mole, the handmade corn tortillas, the vats of carne machaca and carnitas—the centerpiece of this Saturday morning tradition is their mole pipián. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pale green and stewed with tender shredded chicken, Los Moles’ nutty, vibrant pipián made of roasted pepitas and seed varieties tantalizes. I recently learned that my great grandmother specialized in a mole pipián made from grinding toasted maíz, pepita, and sesame. And while the recipe was lost between generations, I hold on to that story with every bite I take of Los Moles’ pipián. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Lina Blanco, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Digital Manager of Engagement, KQED Arts & Culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136123/flavors-worth-finding-charred-cauliflower-dungeness-crab-and-mole-for-brunch","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_16526","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_785","bayareabites_564","bayareabites_523","bayareabites_9835","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_14412","bayareabites_16191","bayareabites_15518","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_4043","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136126","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135485":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135485","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135485","score":null,"sort":[1573777234000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u","title":"Hella Vegan Eats is Reborn in Oakland as Gay 4 U","publishDate":1573777234,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_135415,bayareabites_135040' label='More Vegan News']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fans of Hella Vegan Eats, a favorite for eaters seeking comfort food in the East Bay, will be happy to know that a new iteration of that restaurant has opened up in Oakland as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Sofi Espice, formerly known as Silvi Peligras, is running Gay 4 U at Garden House which also hosts Japanese fried chicken and izakaya restaurant Aburaya-Go for weekday lunches. In fact, it was Adachi Hiroyuki of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://aburayaoakland.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> who tipped a defeated Espice onto Garden House’s search for a new pop-up after running into them at a restaurant supply store towards the end of Hella Vegan Eats. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hella Vegan Eats’s three-year run at Classic Cars West \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/2/7/18215793/hella-vegan-eats-closing-displaced-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">came to an end\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier at the end of February when the gallery and bar’s owner, Michael Sarcona, parted ways with Espice and their former business and life partner Tiff Esquivel. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"It was such a sweet experience but it was like riding a crazy high and all of a sudden it was a downward spiral of so much grief and tragedy and sadness,” Espice tells me. Beyond closing the restaurant, Espice and Esquivel also lost a close friend to the Ghostship fire, got in a bad car wreck and later on, ended their relationship. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After a successful fundraising campaign that paid out the Hella Vegan Eats staff and continued their lease at a commercial kitchen, Espice began plotting on the next iteration of their food project while popping up at Eli’s, Analog and other spots in the East Bay. Finally in late October, Gay 4 U was born. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I'm really lucky to have the audience that followed me [from Hella Vegan Eats],” they said. “I definitely want to show my appreciation to them and keep some of the spirit from the food from before but I want to continue to push myself and evolve and keep on going with it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B41PBbVhD0L/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The menu at Gay 4 U, which is open for dinner Thursday through Monday and brunch on the weekends, will reflect some of the “fun, salty” foods that Espice associates with the Hella Vegan era but also some new healthier options. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There's an amazing salad, a whole quinoa rice bowl that's got braised kale. I'm incorporating a lot of lacto-fermented foods into everything so it's good for [digestion] and takes care of you while you're getting joy from it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Also new at Gay 4 U is Espice’s offer of a free meal for any trans folks of color. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"I identify as a trans person. I'm a person of color. I want to be there for people who are like me,” they share. “I've had plenty of help along the way but it's not an easy endeavor to be me and to be who I want to be and do art and make food and be there for my community.” Espice is also passing out any leftover food from their business to the folks living in encampments in downtown and West Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since Gay 4 U is still a new venture for Espice who’s still sorting out the financials of running this new operation as a one-person show, they’re asking folks to support on GoFundMe until they get settled in. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/gay4u-is-open-and-needs-your-help?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has raised more than half of its $5,000 goal. Through this transition, Espice is committed to their offer of giving what they can to the community around them. “If I'm going to be making dollars, let some of those dollars be keeping people in encampments and also people in the trans poc community [fed].”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With Gay 4 U, former Hella Vegan Eats co-owner Sofi Espice is serving both food and the trans POC community.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1573778154,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":650},"headData":{"title":"Hella Vegan Eats is Reborn in Oakland as Gay 4 U | KQED","description":"With Gay 4 U, former Hella Vegan Eats co-owner Sofi Espice is serving both food and the trans POC community.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135485 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135485","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/14/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u/","disqusTitle":"Hella Vegan Eats is Reborn in Oakland as Gay 4 U","path":"/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_135415,bayareabites_135040","label":"More Vegan News "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fans of Hella Vegan Eats, a favorite for eaters seeking comfort food in the East Bay, will be happy to know that a new iteration of that restaurant has opened up in Oakland as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Sofi Espice, formerly known as Silvi Peligras, is running Gay 4 U at Garden House which also hosts Japanese fried chicken and izakaya restaurant Aburaya-Go for weekday lunches. In fact, it was Adachi Hiroyuki of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://aburayaoakland.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> who tipped a defeated Espice onto Garden House’s search for a new pop-up after running into them at a restaurant supply store towards the end of Hella Vegan Eats. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hella Vegan Eats’s three-year run at Classic Cars West \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/2/7/18215793/hella-vegan-eats-closing-displaced-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">came to an end\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier at the end of February when the gallery and bar’s owner, Michael Sarcona, parted ways with Espice and their former business and life partner Tiff Esquivel. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"It was such a sweet experience but it was like riding a crazy high and all of a sudden it was a downward spiral of so much grief and tragedy and sadness,” Espice tells me. Beyond closing the restaurant, Espice and Esquivel also lost a close friend to the Ghostship fire, got in a bad car wreck and later on, ended their relationship. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After a successful fundraising campaign that paid out the Hella Vegan Eats staff and continued their lease at a commercial kitchen, Espice began plotting on the next iteration of their food project while popping up at Eli’s, Analog and other spots in the East Bay. Finally in late October, Gay 4 U was born. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I'm really lucky to have the audience that followed me [from Hella Vegan Eats],” they said. “I definitely want to show my appreciation to them and keep some of the spirit from the food from before but I want to continue to push myself and evolve and keep on going with it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B41PBbVhD0L"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The menu at Gay 4 U, which is open for dinner Thursday through Monday and brunch on the weekends, will reflect some of the “fun, salty” foods that Espice associates with the Hella Vegan era but also some new healthier options. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There's an amazing salad, a whole quinoa rice bowl that's got braised kale. I'm incorporating a lot of lacto-fermented foods into everything so it's good for [digestion] and takes care of you while you're getting joy from it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Also new at Gay 4 U is Espice’s offer of a free meal for any trans folks of color. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"I identify as a trans person. I'm a person of color. I want to be there for people who are like me,” they share. “I've had plenty of help along the way but it's not an easy endeavor to be me and to be who I want to be and do art and make food and be there for my community.” Espice is also passing out any leftover food from their business to the folks living in encampments in downtown and West Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since Gay 4 U is still a new venture for Espice who’s still sorting out the financials of running this new operation as a one-person show, they’re asking folks to support on GoFundMe until they get settled in. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/gay4u-is-open-and-needs-your-help?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The campaign\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has raised more than half of its $5,000 goal. Through this transition, Espice is committed to their offer of giving what they can to the community around them. “If I'm going to be making dollars, let some of those dollars be keeping people in encampments and also people in the trans poc community [fed].”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_669","bayareabites_16494","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135468","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135415":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135415","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135415","score":null,"sort":[1573596469000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"at-quintessence-sorbet-a-spotlight-on-californias-bounty","title":"At Quintessence Sorbet, a Spotlight on California's Bounty","publishDate":1573596469,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On any given Thursday night, nestled between the bright pink and yellow shipping containers of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacososcar/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tacos Oscar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland, you might find a gentleman selling a medley of sorbets from an old-school ice-cream cart. Shifting with the season’s harvests, Kramer Collins’s flavors are often named after their primary ingredient. His pistachio for example, is a sorbet made from Santa Barbara pistachios, water, cane sugar and sea salt. Offered with Maldon salt flakes as a topping, the sorbet tastes clean and true — the delicious pistachios have changed form but not flavor.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='jpepinheart_1269,bayareabites_118043' label='Sherbet, Ice Cream and More']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins came into sorbet making in 2008 when he was hired as a dishwasher at Oakland’s Scream Sorbet. It was his first job in the food industry and eventually, he moved into sourcing ingredients, developing flavors as the kitchen manager. “I hated so much of that job. It's yelling at people, firing people, telling people to be on-time. I was bad at all that stuff,” he confesses. “Ordering packaging. Ordering paper towels for the bathroom. It's the least romantic thing.” When I ask if there’s more romance with Quintessence, he answers assuredly, “Yeah. Because I make it that way.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After Scream shuttered in 2013, Collins returned to sorbet making in 2017 buying his own equipment and serving in Port Costa’s Honey House Cafe and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bullvalleyroadhouse.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bull Valley Road House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> but earlier this year, his plans were put on hold.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was diagnosed with leukemia in January and I got super sick and I was in the hospital. I got the chemo and all that stuff. Many, many chemos.” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the next six months, Collins couldn’t do much besides stay put, read, meditate and contemplate his future. “I just made a bunch of resolutions that when I was better and made it out of that situation, that I would take more advantage of things that make me happier and are more for my own enrichment.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In June, when he finally got well enough, Collins returned to Bull Valley Roadhouse’s kitchen with a renewed sense of direction. This August, he debuted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/quintessencesorbet/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quintessence Sorbet\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’s Tacos Oscar after meeting the two back when they popped up at the Bull Valley Roadhouse.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135327\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135327\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg\" alt=\"A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By night’s end, Collins sold out of his pistachio, strawberry and coconut lime sorbets. \u003c/span>\u003cb>“\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is all that I could really dream of especially my first time doing this. It's unbelievable people who work here, unbelievable people who come in the door. Just really adventurous people who are willing to give it a try,” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins, who grew up in Orinda and spent many weekends at a family friend’s farm in Moraga, has a special appreciation for the pinnacle taste of produce at the peak of its season. “You look forward to all that stuff coming into season,” he tells me. “It's a treat when you're finally pulling heirloom tomatoes off the bush, or your keeper squash has finally been cured and it's ready to eat in the wintertime.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the mindset that informs his sorbet venture which he runs alone out of Bull Valley Road House’s kitchen and at pop-ups in Oakland he announces on his Instagram. “[First], what's the absolute best version of a pluot that I can possibly find?” he tells me. “And then, when somebody thinks of a pluot, or they're talking to somebody about a pluot, how can I be the definition of the absolute, the ultimate version of that?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The brilliance of Quintessence Sorbet comes from Collins’s pursuit of the quintessential flavors he’s drawn towards and his technique gives his frozen treats an impossibly creamy texture — all the more impressive considering they’re all vegan. “I'm using some fat, but also naturally occurring pectin,” he explains, “A lot of the structural properties of these fruits can actually give body to a sorbet.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of the appeal in the pop-up model for Collins is the instability of his product since he doesn’t use any binders or stabilizers that can maintain the tiny ice crystals that make up his smooth sorbets. Once made, his sorbet has to stay at the right storage temperature and sold off before it melts into a more granita-like texture. “I have a refractometer, which measures Brix, which is a way of measuring dissolved sugars,” says Collins explaining that sugar is how he controls the freezing point of his desserts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While his sorbet is on the Bull Valley Roadhouse menu, he most enjoys the rewards of a pop-up experience where he’s serving customers himself. “I really like the ephemeral quality of being in this moment here. We're all here at the same time and how magical it is that?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135324\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This winter will present the challenge of making sorbet appealing in a colder climate as well as figuring out how to make a sorbet out of citrus fruits whose juices are low in pectin. “I love citrus, so I've got to figure out a way, because minneola tangelo...” he trails off. Until he solves the citrus dilemma, there’s his take on the always seasonal chocolate that leans deliciously sweet while still holding toasted, bitter notes. Or Honey Sesame Neroli Sorbet, a more complex symphony of flavors. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As customers taste his sorbet, Collins is always subtly looking out for their responses. “Who doesn't want to make someone smile? It's everything with food,” he tells me. “Imagine if you could make a plate of food and then walk out and serve it to somebody. I think, to some people, it might be a little bit scary, but if you really believe in what you're doing and you love it, who wouldn't want to see someone's reaction.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Kramer Collins’s uncomplicated sorbet flavors share his deep appreciation for the seasonal ingredients in California.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1573601986,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1076},"headData":{"title":"At Quintessence Sorbet, a Spotlight on California's Bounty | KQED","description":"Kramer Collins’s uncomplicated sorbet flavors share his deep appreciation for the seasonal ingredients in California.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135415 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135415","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/12/at-quintessence-sorbet-a-spotlight-on-californias-bounty/","disqusTitle":"At Quintessence Sorbet, a Spotlight on California's Bounty","path":"/bayareabites/135415/at-quintessence-sorbet-a-spotlight-on-californias-bounty","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On any given Thursday night, nestled between the bright pink and yellow shipping containers of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacososcar/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tacos Oscar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland, you might find a gentleman selling a medley of sorbets from an old-school ice-cream cart. Shifting with the season’s harvests, Kramer Collins’s flavors are often named after their primary ingredient. His pistachio for example, is a sorbet made from Santa Barbara pistachios, water, cane sugar and sea salt. Offered with Maldon salt flakes as a topping, the sorbet tastes clean and true — the delicious pistachios have changed form but not flavor.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"jpepinheart_1269,bayareabites_118043","label":"Sherbet, Ice Cream and More "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins came into sorbet making in 2008 when he was hired as a dishwasher at Oakland’s Scream Sorbet. It was his first job in the food industry and eventually, he moved into sourcing ingredients, developing flavors as the kitchen manager. “I hated so much of that job. It's yelling at people, firing people, telling people to be on-time. I was bad at all that stuff,” he confesses. “Ordering packaging. Ordering paper towels for the bathroom. It's the least romantic thing.” When I ask if there’s more romance with Quintessence, he answers assuredly, “Yeah. Because I make it that way.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After Scream shuttered in 2013, Collins returned to sorbet making in 2017 buying his own equipment and serving in Port Costa’s Honey House Cafe and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bullvalleyroadhouse.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bull Valley Road House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> but earlier this year, his plans were put on hold.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was diagnosed with leukemia in January and I got super sick and I was in the hospital. I got the chemo and all that stuff. Many, many chemos.” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the next six months, Collins couldn’t do much besides stay put, read, meditate and contemplate his future. “I just made a bunch of resolutions that when I was better and made it out of that situation, that I would take more advantage of things that make me happier and are more for my own enrichment.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In June, when he finally got well enough, Collins returned to Bull Valley Roadhouse’s kitchen with a renewed sense of direction. This August, he debuted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/quintessencesorbet/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quintessence Sorbet\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’s Tacos Oscar after meeting the two back when they popped up at the Bull Valley Roadhouse.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135327\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135327\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg\" alt=\"A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By night’s end, Collins sold out of his pistachio, strawberry and coconut lime sorbets. \u003c/span>\u003cb>“\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is all that I could really dream of especially my first time doing this. It's unbelievable people who work here, unbelievable people who come in the door. Just really adventurous people who are willing to give it a try,” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins, who grew up in Orinda and spent many weekends at a family friend’s farm in Moraga, has a special appreciation for the pinnacle taste of produce at the peak of its season. “You look forward to all that stuff coming into season,” he tells me. “It's a treat when you're finally pulling heirloom tomatoes off the bush, or your keeper squash has finally been cured and it's ready to eat in the wintertime.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the mindset that informs his sorbet venture which he runs alone out of Bull Valley Road House’s kitchen and at pop-ups in Oakland he announces on his Instagram. “[First], what's the absolute best version of a pluot that I can possibly find?” he tells me. “And then, when somebody thinks of a pluot, or they're talking to somebody about a pluot, how can I be the definition of the absolute, the ultimate version of that?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The brilliance of Quintessence Sorbet comes from Collins’s pursuit of the quintessential flavors he’s drawn towards and his technique gives his frozen treats an impossibly creamy texture — all the more impressive considering they’re all vegan. “I'm using some fat, but also naturally occurring pectin,” he explains, “A lot of the structural properties of these fruits can actually give body to a sorbet.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of the appeal in the pop-up model for Collins is the instability of his product since he doesn’t use any binders or stabilizers that can maintain the tiny ice crystals that make up his smooth sorbets. Once made, his sorbet has to stay at the right storage temperature and sold off before it melts into a more granita-like texture. “I have a refractometer, which measures Brix, which is a way of measuring dissolved sugars,” says Collins explaining that sugar is how he controls the freezing point of his desserts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While his sorbet is on the Bull Valley Roadhouse menu, he most enjoys the rewards of a pop-up experience where he’s serving customers himself. “I really like the ephemeral quality of being in this moment here. We're all here at the same time and how magical it is that?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135324\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This winter will present the challenge of making sorbet appealing in a colder climate as well as figuring out how to make a sorbet out of citrus fruits whose juices are low in pectin. “I love citrus, so I've got to figure out a way, because minneola tangelo...” he trails off. Until he solves the citrus dilemma, there’s his take on the always seasonal chocolate that leans deliciously sweet while still holding toasted, bitter notes. Or Honey Sesame Neroli Sorbet, a more complex symphony of flavors. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As customers taste his sorbet, Collins is always subtly looking out for their responses. “Who doesn't want to make someone smile? It's everything with food,” he tells me. “Imagine if you could make a plate of food and then walk out and serve it to somebody. I think, to some people, it might be a little bit scary, but if you really believe in what you're doing and you love it, who wouldn't want to see someone's reaction.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135415/at-quintessence-sorbet-a-spotlight-on-californias-bounty","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_16492","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135325","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. 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