“As the world shaped itself in different ways, people made their way to California, which became the safe haven of Armenians from around the world.” Western and Eastern Armenians speak different dialects, use different names for the same dishes — and make those dishes differently. What they all share in common is the challenge of keeping their language alive in America. That’s where food is at least the start of the conversation.
In keeping with another current trend, that of back alley catering and restaurant-esque entities sprouting up all over town, d.i.y. barbecue operations churning away on the edges of the local food scene actually best the likes of Baby Blues, Memphis Minnie’s, and Big Nate’s. There’s definitely something appealing about outlaw status, and barbecue wears it especially well, even here.