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Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_111599":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_111599","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"111599","score":null,"sort":[1471889452000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-south-korea-uses-kimchi-to-connect-to-the-world-and-beyond","title":"How South Korea Uses Kimchi To Connect To The World — And Beyond","publishDate":1471889452,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160822_me_how_south_korea_uses_kimchi_to_connect_to_the_world_and_beyond.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everybody eats, which is what makes food a perfect choice to resolve conflicts and foster connections among nations. The concept is called \"gastrodiplomacy,\" and South Korea is one of its strongest champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The country is one of the world's best at branding itself through food, using its cuisine as a kind of \"soft power\" to help spread South Korea's influence. And even as the government supports its citizens in opening Korean restaurants around the world, it pays special attention to promoting that most ubiquitous of Korean foods: kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Korean government studied a kind of diplomacy using Korean culture, music and especially Korean food,\" says Byung Hong Park, who is in charge of agriculture, food and rural affairs at the Korean Embassy in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kimchi is like air in Korea,\" says Hyunjoo Albrecht, a San Francisco-based chef who grew up near the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), the strip of land that serves as the border between North Korea and South Korea. \"It always has to be in the refrigerator in every house, a big batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimchi is not just cabbage salad — it is essential to the culture of the country. There are hundreds of different varieties of kimchi in Korea, and about 1.5 million tons of it is consumed each year. Even the Korean stock market reflects this obsession: The \"Kimchi Index\" tracks when Napa cabbage and the 12 other ingredients — chili, carrots, radishes and anchovies among them — are at their best prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was young, my mom used to make 200 heads of cabbage, wintertime Kimjang,\" says YouTube's Korean cooking star, Maangchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimjang, the tradition of making kimchi, brought together entire villages and neighborhoods to turn hundreds of heads of cabbages into a source of food and nutrition for people who have historically borne long eras of deprivation and starvation. The kimchi was fermented and aged in underground pots or modern refrigerators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ritual of Kimjang is so vital to the country's identity that UNESCO added the tradition to its \u003ca href=\"http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/kimjang-making-and-sharing-kimchi-in-the-republic-of-korea-00881\">representative list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.\u003c/a> But the tradition is also threatened, as modern life continues to separate families and make fast food more popular than slow, traditional home-cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was the time when the women would gather and gossip. There would be matchmaking,\" says Sunhui Chang, who grew up in Incheon, South Korea, but is now chef and owner of the restaurant FuseBox in Oakland, Calif. \"There would be some marriages that came about during the time of kimchi making.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyunjoo remembers the ritual that took place each November in her village: \"You wouldn't greet your neighbors with 'Hi, how are you?' but with 'How many heads of cabbage are you doing?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kimchi-making traveled from house to house through the village. \"One person trimming the ginger, one person cutting the cabbage, one person cutting the radish,\" Hyunjoo says. \"It's very labor intensive. You need the help of others.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though Kimjang was a way to bring the community together, Hyunjoo recalls volatile fights between her mother and a neighbor. \"They're yelling at each other,\" she says, \"and a few days later they're sitting next to each other cutting cabbage, joking together, making food together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chang says sharp gender divisions prevailed during Kimjang. \"Men weren't really allowed to be around,\" he says. \"I was always told that if the men started hanging around and touching the kimchi, it would be bad kimchi.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1.jpg\" alt=\"South Korean astronaut Soyeon Yi, seen here with Russian Federal Space Agency cosmonaut Yuri Malenchenko (middle) and NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson (right), prepared kimchi for her fellow space travelers aboard the International Space Station.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1366\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111601\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-400x273.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-768x525.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-1440x984.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-1180x806.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-960x656.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South Korean astronaut Soyeon Yi, seen here with Russian Federal Space Agency cosmonaut Yuri Malenchenko (middle) and NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson (right), prepared kimchi for her fellow space travelers aboard the International Space Station. \u003ccite>(NASA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kimchi in space\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>For decades after the Korean War of the 1950s, the nation barely had enough money to feed itself, let alone enter the space race. It wasn't until 2008 that South Korea chose Soyeon Yi, a woman who had grown up in Gwanju, to be the country's first astronaut. \"When I was a kid, I couldn't even dare to be an astronaut,\" Yi says. \"Korea doesn't even have a space agency!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The government had worked for nearly a decade to invent Korean space food. Ten essential dishes were created, two of which were kimchi (freeze-dried and canned). It is difficult for Koreans to imagine a day without kimchi, let alone an entire space expedition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Having kimchi in space, you are far from your home planet,\" Yi says. \"When you eat your own traditional food, it makes you feel emotionally supported.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kimchi, however, had to be radiated to kill all the microorganisms in the probiotic-rich dish. \"After radiation the kimchi became so saggy. [It] looked like it was 100 years old,\" says Yi. \"I cannot say it's a really tasteful kimchi, but still I like it because I can feel my home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>K-Pop/K-Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>K-Pop, the popular Korean music genre, burst onto the scene with its global hit \"Gangnam Style.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call the Korean food '\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qiwtg0zYSWo&feature=youtu.be\">K-Food,'\u003c/a> like 'K-Pop' music,\" says Park of the government-created campaign designed to popularize the country's cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The government gave financial support to Korean restaurants in the U.S.,\" says Hyunjoo, who six years ago started a line of kimchi called \"Sinto Gourmet\" in America. \"They want more people outside Korea to eat more Korean food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='Si-Hyeon Ryu, who launched the \"Kimchi Bus Project\" five years ago, has trekked to 34 countries to spread his love of the traditional dish.' width=\"640\" height=\"640\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Si-Hyeon Ryu, who launched the \"Kimchi Bus Project\" five years ago, has trekked to 34 countries to spread his love of the traditional dish. \u003ccite>(Sihyeong Yu/Courtesy of the Kimchi Bus Project)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Kimchi Bus\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/kimchibus/\">Kimchi Bus Project\u003c/a> was launched five years ago by Si-Hyeon Ryu, a chef and writer from South Korea. Ryu, whose travels are supported by the Korean government, has trekked to 32 countries — from the United States to Argentina to Italy — cooking traditional Korean food and spreading his love of kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People on the street know just about North and South Korea,\" he says, but not much about Korean cuisine. \"If I explain about kimchi, they will understand about Korea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Korean government is very conscious of food culture,\" says Johanna Mendelson Forman, a professor at American University in Washington, D.C., who specializes in gastrodiplomacy. \"The proliferation of Korean restaurants is an extension of that culture. Korea uses that 'kimchi diplomacy' as a way of branding itself.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yi describes a night of kimchi diplomacy in space: \"I had a special Korean food night. I made dinner for all other six astronauts on the space station. I still remember one of my Russian colleagues — he tried to tell me it's good. But his face told me ... 'ugh, what the hell it is?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think food is not just a thing we eat for living,\" says Yi. \"Food helps us trust each other. In Korea we have a saying: Whoever prepares for you the good meal ... you cannot betray them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Kimchi Fried Rice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes to us courtesy of Hyunjoo Albrecht of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sintogourmet.com/portfolio_page/kimchi-fried-rice/\">Sinto Gourmet\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111603\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089.jpg\" alt=\"Sinto Gourmet Kimchi Fried Rice\" width=\"600\" height=\"904\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111603\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089-400x603.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sinto Gourmet Kimchi Fried Rice \u003ccite>(Hyunjoo Albrecht/Courtesy of Sinto Gourmet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch4>Ingredients (Makes 2 portions)\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>3 strips bacon, cut into strips about 1/4-inch lengths\u003cbr>1/3 cup yellow onion, chopped\u003cbr>1 cup red Napa cabbage kimchi, drained and chopped with juice saved\u003cbr>2 cups steamed white short-grain rice, chilled in refrigerator\u003cbr>2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil\u003cbr>Salt and pepper\u003cbr>1/2 tablespoon butter\u003cbr>2 eggs cooked sunny side up (optional)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons green onion, sliced thin (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cook bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes until golden brown. Take out bacon from the pan and set aside on a paper towel but leave bacon fat in the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In the same pan with bacon fat in it, add the yellow onion and kimchi. Saute until the onion becomes translucent and kimchi is somewhat sweated out for about 3 to 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add rice in the pan and try to break the lump of rice with an up and down motion using a flat wooden spoon or spatula, then stir for about 5 minutes. If the pan gets too dry from rice soaking up the oil, add canola oil or vegetable oil about one tablespoon at a time as you stir fry the mixture of rice, yellow onion, and Kimchi. If you like a stronger kimchi flavor, add kimchi juice a tablespoon at a time as you continue to stir fry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Take pan off the heat, add bacon and butter, and mix well\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Transfer rice to a serving platter, put a cooked egg on top, and sprinkle with green onion before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IMPORTANT:\u003c/strong> Don't try to make kimchi fried rice with hot or warm rice. It will turn out incredibly mushy. Use only cold or at least slightly chilled rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The traditional dish is so essential to the nation's culture and identity that the government promotes it globally in an effort to foster understanding and peace among countries.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1471889594,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":41,"wordCount":1510},"headData":{"title":"How South Korea Uses Kimchi To Connect To The World — And Beyond | KQED","description":"The traditional dish is so essential to the nation's culture and identity that the government promotes it globally in an effort to foster understanding and peace among countries.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How South Korea Uses Kimchi To Connect To The World — And Beyond","datePublished":"2016-08-22T18:10:52.000Z","dateModified":"2016-08-22T18:13:14.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"111599 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=111599","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/08/22/how-south-korea-uses-kimchi-to-connect-to-the-world-and-beyond/","disqusTitle":"How South Korea Uses Kimchi To Connect To The World — And Beyond","source":"Asian Food and Drink","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/asian-food-and-drink/","nprImageCredit":"Ahn Young-joon","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"AP","nprStoryId":"489805398","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=489805398&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/22/489805398/how-south-korea-uses-kimchi-to-connect-to-the-world-and-beyond?ft=nprml&f=489805398","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 22 Aug 2016 09:02:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 22 Aug 2016 04:36:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 22 Aug 2016 09:02:10 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160822_me_how_south_korea_uses_kimchi_to_connect_to_the_world_and_beyond.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=423&p=3&story=489805398&t=progseg&e=490889244&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=489805398","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1490895650-800120.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=423&p=3&story=489805398&t=progseg&e=490889244&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=489805398","path":"/bayareabites/111599/how-south-korea-uses-kimchi-to-connect-to-the-world-and-beyond","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160822_me_how_south_korea_uses_kimchi_to_connect_to_the_world_and_beyond.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=423&p=3&story=489805398&t=progseg&e=490889244&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=489805398","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160822_me_how_south_korea_uses_kimchi_to_connect_to_the_world_and_beyond.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everybody eats, which is what makes food a perfect choice to resolve conflicts and foster connections among nations. The concept is called \"gastrodiplomacy,\" and South Korea is one of its strongest champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The country is one of the world's best at branding itself through food, using its cuisine as a kind of \"soft power\" to help spread South Korea's influence. And even as the government supports its citizens in opening Korean restaurants around the world, it pays special attention to promoting that most ubiquitous of Korean foods: kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Korean government studied a kind of diplomacy using Korean culture, music and especially Korean food,\" says Byung Hong Park, who is in charge of agriculture, food and rural affairs at the Korean Embassy in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kimchi is like air in Korea,\" says Hyunjoo Albrecht, a San Francisco-based chef who grew up near the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), the strip of land that serves as the border between North Korea and South Korea. \"It always has to be in the refrigerator in every house, a big batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimchi is not just cabbage salad — it is essential to the culture of the country. There are hundreds of different varieties of kimchi in Korea, and about 1.5 million tons of it is consumed each year. Even the Korean stock market reflects this obsession: The \"Kimchi Index\" tracks when Napa cabbage and the 12 other ingredients — chili, carrots, radishes and anchovies among them — are at their best prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was young, my mom used to make 200 heads of cabbage, wintertime Kimjang,\" says YouTube's Korean cooking star, Maangchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimjang, the tradition of making kimchi, brought together entire villages and neighborhoods to turn hundreds of heads of cabbages into a source of food and nutrition for people who have historically borne long eras of deprivation and starvation. The kimchi was fermented and aged in underground pots or modern refrigerators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ritual of Kimjang is so vital to the country's identity that UNESCO added the tradition to its \u003ca href=\"http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/kimjang-making-and-sharing-kimchi-in-the-republic-of-korea-00881\">representative list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.\u003c/a> But the tradition is also threatened, as modern life continues to separate families and make fast food more popular than slow, traditional home-cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was the time when the women would gather and gossip. There would be matchmaking,\" says Sunhui Chang, who grew up in Incheon, South Korea, but is now chef and owner of the restaurant FuseBox in Oakland, Calif. \"There would be some marriages that came about during the time of kimchi making.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyunjoo remembers the ritual that took place each November in her village: \"You wouldn't greet your neighbors with 'Hi, how are you?' but with 'How many heads of cabbage are you doing?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kimchi-making traveled from house to house through the village. \"One person trimming the ginger, one person cutting the cabbage, one person cutting the radish,\" Hyunjoo says. \"It's very labor intensive. You need the help of others.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though Kimjang was a way to bring the community together, Hyunjoo recalls volatile fights between her mother and a neighbor. \"They're yelling at each other,\" she says, \"and a few days later they're sitting next to each other cutting cabbage, joking together, making food together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chang says sharp gender divisions prevailed during Kimjang. \"Men weren't really allowed to be around,\" he says. \"I was always told that if the men started hanging around and touching the kimchi, it would be bad kimchi.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1.jpg\" alt=\"South Korean astronaut Soyeon Yi, seen here with Russian Federal Space Agency cosmonaut Yuri Malenchenko (middle) and NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson (right), prepared kimchi for her fellow space travelers aboard the International Space Station.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1366\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111601\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-400x273.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-768x525.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-1440x984.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-1180x806.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/nasaphotokimchi_enl-4b721b7b10470186feb988ca4d0b762ad864f7c1-960x656.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">South Korean astronaut Soyeon Yi, seen here with Russian Federal Space Agency cosmonaut Yuri Malenchenko (middle) and NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson (right), prepared kimchi for her fellow space travelers aboard the International Space Station. \u003ccite>(NASA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kimchi in space\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>For decades after the Korean War of the 1950s, the nation barely had enough money to feed itself, let alone enter the space race. It wasn't until 2008 that South Korea chose Soyeon Yi, a woman who had grown up in Gwanju, to be the country's first astronaut. \"When I was a kid, I couldn't even dare to be an astronaut,\" Yi says. \"Korea doesn't even have a space agency!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The government had worked for nearly a decade to invent Korean space food. Ten essential dishes were created, two of which were kimchi (freeze-dried and canned). It is difficult for Koreans to imagine a day without kimchi, let alone an entire space expedition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Having kimchi in space, you are far from your home planet,\" Yi says. \"When you eat your own traditional food, it makes you feel emotionally supported.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kimchi, however, had to be radiated to kill all the microorganisms in the probiotic-rich dish. \"After radiation the kimchi became so saggy. [It] looked like it was 100 years old,\" says Yi. \"I cannot say it's a really tasteful kimchi, but still I like it because I can feel my home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>K-Pop/K-Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>K-Pop, the popular Korean music genre, burst onto the scene with its global hit \"Gangnam Style.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call the Korean food '\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qiwtg0zYSWo&feature=youtu.be\">K-Food,'\u003c/a> like 'K-Pop' music,\" says Park of the government-created campaign designed to popularize the country's cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The government gave financial support to Korean restaurants in the U.S.,\" says Hyunjoo, who six years ago started a line of kimchi called \"Sinto Gourmet\" in America. \"They want more people outside Korea to eat more Korean food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='Si-Hyeon Ryu, who launched the \"Kimchi Bus Project\" five years ago, has trekked to 34 countries to spread his love of the traditional dish.' width=\"640\" height=\"640\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchibus_sq-77e4e1bfa8fdd7a324c80418181bd522ed1fa4cb-s700-c85-128x128.jpg 128w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Si-Hyeon Ryu, who launched the \"Kimchi Bus Project\" five years ago, has trekked to 34 countries to spread his love of the traditional dish. \u003ccite>(Sihyeong Yu/Courtesy of the Kimchi Bus Project)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Kimchi Bus\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/kimchibus/\">Kimchi Bus Project\u003c/a> was launched five years ago by Si-Hyeon Ryu, a chef and writer from South Korea. Ryu, whose travels are supported by the Korean government, has trekked to 32 countries — from the United States to Argentina to Italy — cooking traditional Korean food and spreading his love of kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People on the street know just about North and South Korea,\" he says, but not much about Korean cuisine. \"If I explain about kimchi, they will understand about Korea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Korean government is very conscious of food culture,\" says Johanna Mendelson Forman, a professor at American University in Washington, D.C., who specializes in gastrodiplomacy. \"The proliferation of Korean restaurants is an extension of that culture. Korea uses that 'kimchi diplomacy' as a way of branding itself.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yi describes a night of kimchi diplomacy in space: \"I had a special Korean food night. I made dinner for all other six astronauts on the space station. I still remember one of my Russian colleagues — he tried to tell me it's good. But his face told me ... 'ugh, what the hell it is?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think food is not just a thing we eat for living,\" says Yi. \"Food helps us trust each other. In Korea we have a saying: Whoever prepares for you the good meal ... you cannot betray them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Kimchi Fried Rice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes to us courtesy of Hyunjoo Albrecht of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sintogourmet.com/portfolio_page/kimchi-fried-rice/\">Sinto Gourmet\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111603\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089.jpg\" alt=\"Sinto Gourmet Kimchi Fried Rice\" width=\"600\" height=\"904\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111603\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/kimchi-fried-rice_enl-99925da70518a0bb88f40589393c288be3044089-400x603.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sinto Gourmet Kimchi Fried Rice \u003ccite>(Hyunjoo Albrecht/Courtesy of Sinto Gourmet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch4>Ingredients (Makes 2 portions)\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>3 strips bacon, cut into strips about 1/4-inch lengths\u003cbr>1/3 cup yellow onion, chopped\u003cbr>1 cup red Napa cabbage kimchi, drained and chopped with juice saved\u003cbr>2 cups steamed white short-grain rice, chilled in refrigerator\u003cbr>2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil\u003cbr>Salt and pepper\u003cbr>1/2 tablespoon butter\u003cbr>2 eggs cooked sunny side up (optional)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons green onion, sliced thin (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cook bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes until golden brown. Take out bacon from the pan and set aside on a paper towel but leave bacon fat in the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In the same pan with bacon fat in it, add the yellow onion and kimchi. Saute until the onion becomes translucent and kimchi is somewhat sweated out for about 3 to 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add rice in the pan and try to break the lump of rice with an up and down motion using a flat wooden spoon or spatula, then stir for about 5 minutes. If the pan gets too dry from rice soaking up the oil, add canola oil or vegetable oil about one tablespoon at a time as you stir fry the mixture of rice, yellow onion, and Kimchi. If you like a stronger kimchi flavor, add kimchi juice a tablespoon at a time as you continue to stir fry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Take pan off the heat, add bacon and butter, and mix well\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Transfer rice to a serving platter, put a cooked egg on top, and sprinkle with green onion before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IMPORTANT:\u003c/strong> Don't try to make kimchi fried rice with hot or warm rice. It will turn out incredibly mushy. Use only cold or at least slightly chilled rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/111599/how-south-korea-uses-kimchi-to-connect-to-the-world-and-beyond","authors":["byline_bayareabites_111599"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_13191","bayareabites_1499","bayareabites_15574","bayareabites_14233","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_111600","label":"source_bayareabites_111599"},"bayareabites_111426":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_111426","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"111426","score":null,"sort":[1471284879000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs","title":"The Gold-Hungry Forty-Niners Also Plundered Something Else: Eggs","publishDate":1471284879,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160815_me_the_gold-hungry_forty-niners_also_plundered_something_else_eggs.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You've heard of the San Francisco gold rush. But that rush spurred another, lesser-known event: the egg rush. The legions of miners who swept into the region in the 1850s hoping to strike gold all had to be fed. And they needed protein to stay strong. But when food shortages hit, wily entrepreneurs looked for eggs in an unlikely source: the Farallon Islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Completely isolated and surrounded by great white sharks and sea lions, \"the Farallon Islands are the most forbidding piece of real estate to be found within the city limits of San Francisco,\" says Gary Kamiya, a journalist and author of \u003cem>Cool Gray City of Love: 49 Views of San Francisco\u003c/em>. \"The islands are 28 miles outside the Golden Gate in extremely turbulent, dangerous seas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these rocky, skeletal islands did have one attractive quality for gold miners: They harbored the largest seabird rockery in the contiguous United States, and therefore were rife with plenty of protein-rich eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting these eggs wasn't easy. The islands \"look like a piece of the moon that fell into the sea,\" says Mary Jane Schram of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary. \"There are really no shores where you can land a small boat except with great perils.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1849 and 1854, thousands of fortune-hunters flooded into San Francisco from all over the world. Kamiya describes the city as a combination of casinos, campgrounds and brothels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2297px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1.jpg\" alt=\"The South Farallon Island\" width=\"2297\" height=\"1434\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111430\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1.jpg 2297w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-800x499.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-768x479.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-960x599.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2297px) 100vw, 2297px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The South Farallon Island \u003ccite>(The British Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Early on, some shrewd forty-niners began to realize that there was more money to be made mining the miners than there was in mining the gold fields,\" Kamiya says. Dozens of crude eating joints sprang up around the city, and hundreds of voracious miners would crowd into tents, eating in shifts. \"The egg was one of the foodstuffs that was in such short supply.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eva Chrysanthe, an artist and chronicler of the history of the Farallones, describes San Francisco at this time as a \"protein-hungry town.\" What few chickens there were had been devoured, she says, and people were foraging. \"After you wipe out all the bird nests on shore, then you go out to the Farallones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first egg entrepreneur was Doc Robinson, a pharmacist. He and his brother-in-law, Orin, would sail out to the Farallon Islands and haul back dozens of murre eggs, which they would then sell to restaurants and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The work was \"tough, dirty and dangerous,\" says Kamiya. \"The murres lay their eggs up on these towering, steep cliffs — higher than Nob Hill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though Robinson and his brother-in-law were able to poach $3,000 worth of eggs, they had \"no interest in going back. It was a hellish experience,\" says Crysanthe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the idea took hold: Robinson's egg business kicked off the \"egg rush.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1.jpg\" alt=\"The common murre (Uria aalge), which was a source of eggs for San Francisco's egg rush. Engraving by John Gould, William Hart, H. C. Richter.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1401\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111431\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-400x280.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-800x560.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-768x538.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-1440x1009.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-1180x827.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-960x672.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The common murre (Uria aalge), which was a source of eggs for San Francisco's egg rush. Engraving by John Gould, William Hart, H. C. Richter. \u003ccite>( Dea/G. Dagli Orti/Agostini/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The eggs of the common murre — a penguin-like bird — were the most sought-after, most delectable on the Farallones. Strange, beautiful, blue-speckled and pointy-tipped, they are about twice the size of chicken eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When fried, \"the white of the murre egg stays clear and gelatinous. The yolk is deep reddish, and very unappetizing to look at,\" says Keith Hanson, a bird illustrator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1851, six men formed the Pacific Egg Co., which claimed exclusive rights to the islands, says Peter White, author of \u003cem>The Farallon Islands: Sentinels of the Golden Gate.\u003c/em> In May, when the birds first began to lay, the company would land 10 to 30 men, mostly Italian and Greek, on the Farallones' talus-filled shores. They came in little rowboats — in itself a test of stamina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kamiya is amazed at the derring-do of these men: \"They'd send the men up to these sheer guano-stinking cliffs, being attacked by swirling gulls. These were rough-necked guys, waterfront types, climbing up and pushing eggs into their special egg pockets in their egg shirts.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1584px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs of the common murre collected from the Farallon Islands in the 1880s.\" width=\"1584\" height=\"1178\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111432\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1.jpg 1584w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-400x297.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-768x571.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-1440x1071.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-960x714.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1584px) 100vw, 1584px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs of the common murre collected from the Farallon Islands in the 1880s. \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Libraries/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the egg-pickers went in for the first time, they would smash every egg. \"That way they could be assured that the next day, when they returned, every egg gathered would be fresh,\" White says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The eggers starting coming out at about the same time the lighthouse was being built on the Farallones, says biologist Peter Pyle. \"They've got hundreds of these ships coming in response to the gold rush, and a lot of them crashed on the Farallones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a lighthouse keeper on the Farallones was a severe, lonely and harsh duty, says Gary Kamiya. \"And then they had to contend with these raucous, aggressive eggers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rival eggers would sail out to challenge them. \"One man in particular, David Batchelder, just kept showing up with his own bands of roughnecks,\" Kamiya says. \"The Great Egg Wars of the Farallones took place just a few weeks before the Battle of Gettysburg.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On June 3, 1863, three boatloads of heavily armed men came to the islands. They even had a cannon with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The guys at the egg company yelled out to them, 'Land at your peril!' \" Kamiya says. \"Batchelder said, 'I'll land! I'll go through hell!' Then he and his men spent the night drinking. They got themselves into an aggressive, alcohol-fueled state.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111433\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-400x503.jpg\" alt='\"Scottie the egger\" wearing a shirt typical of egg hunters. The shirts had built-in pouches to make egg collecting easier.' width=\"400\" height=\"503\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-111433\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-400x503.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-800x1005.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-768x965.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-1440x1810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-1180x1483.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-960x1206.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Scottie the egger\" wearing a shirt typical of egg hunters. The shirts had built-in pouches to make egg collecting easier. \u003ccite>(Arthur Bolton/California Academy of Sciences)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the egg company warned them, they opened fire. The first casualty was one of the egg company employees, Edwin Perkins, who died after being shot through the stomach. Five of the boatmen were shot, and eventually driven off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the federal government ruled all commercial eggers off of the islands. Any egging after that was done by the lighthouse-keepers. \"But it was black-market trading, trying to line their pockets with eggs,\" says Kamiya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plundering of eggs had caused the murre population to decline year after year, dropping from nearly 400,000 down to 6,000. In the early 1850s, about a half-million eggs were gathered per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For decades, it was said that if you ate any baked goods in San Francisco, you were probably eating murre eggs,\" Kamiya says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when chickens finally got established in Petaluma, it ended up doing in the murre egg industry. The Farallones are now used by scientists to observe bird and animal life, and to track the recovery of species on the islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a robust population now, despite the best efforts of the Farallon eggers,\" Kamiya says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"When food shortages struck San Francisco, wily entrepreneurs raided the dangerous Farallon Islands for protein-rich eggs from seabirds. In the process, they destroyed both wildlife and each other.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1471285047,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1175},"headData":{"title":"The Gold-Hungry Forty-Niners Also Plundered Something Else: Eggs | KQED","description":"When food shortages struck San Francisco, wily entrepreneurs raided the dangerous Farallon Islands for protein-rich eggs from seabirds. In the process, they destroyed both wildlife and each other.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Gold-Hungry Forty-Niners Also Plundered Something Else: Eggs","datePublished":"2016-08-15T18:14:39.000Z","dateModified":"2016-08-15T18:17:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"111426 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=111426","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/08/15/the-gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs/","disqusTitle":"The Gold-Hungry Forty-Niners Also Plundered Something Else: Eggs","source":"Food History","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/food-history-and-celebrities/","nprImageCredit":"Arthur Bolton","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"California Academy of Sciences","nprStoryId":"487644637","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=487644637&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/15/487644637/the-gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs?ft=nprml&f=487644637","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 15 Aug 2016 12:52:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 15 Aug 2016 04:35:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 15 Aug 2016 12:52:50 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160815_me_the_gold-hungry_forty-niners_also_plundered_something_else_eggs.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=422&p=3&story=487644637&t=progseg&e=490027061&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=487644637","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1490037649-d89d67.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=422&p=3&story=487644637&t=progseg&e=490027061&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=487644637","path":"/bayareabites/111426/the-gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160815_me_the_gold-hungry_forty-niners_also_plundered_something_else_eggs.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=422&p=3&story=487644637&t=progseg&e=490027061&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=487644637","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/08/20160815_me_the_gold-hungry_forty-niners_also_plundered_something_else_eggs.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You've heard of the San Francisco gold rush. But that rush spurred another, lesser-known event: the egg rush. The legions of miners who swept into the region in the 1850s hoping to strike gold all had to be fed. And they needed protein to stay strong. But when food shortages hit, wily entrepreneurs looked for eggs in an unlikely source: the Farallon Islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Completely isolated and surrounded by great white sharks and sea lions, \"the Farallon Islands are the most forbidding piece of real estate to be found within the city limits of San Francisco,\" says Gary Kamiya, a journalist and author of \u003cem>Cool Gray City of Love: 49 Views of San Francisco\u003c/em>. \"The islands are 28 miles outside the Golden Gate in extremely turbulent, dangerous seas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these rocky, skeletal islands did have one attractive quality for gold miners: They harbored the largest seabird rockery in the contiguous United States, and therefore were rife with plenty of protein-rich eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Getting these eggs wasn't easy. The islands \"look like a piece of the moon that fell into the sea,\" says Mary Jane Schram of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary. \"There are really no shores where you can land a small boat except with great perils.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1849 and 1854, thousands of fortune-hunters flooded into San Francisco from all over the world. Kamiya describes the city as a combination of casinos, campgrounds and brothels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111430\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2297px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1.jpg\" alt=\"The South Farallon Island\" width=\"2297\" height=\"1434\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111430\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1.jpg 2297w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-800x499.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-768x479.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/southfaralloneislands_enl-81439fdd758d38d946cf1466bcca17c0b2e8fdce-1-960x599.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2297px) 100vw, 2297px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The South Farallon Island \u003ccite>(The British Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Early on, some shrewd forty-niners began to realize that there was more money to be made mining the miners than there was in mining the gold fields,\" Kamiya says. Dozens of crude eating joints sprang up around the city, and hundreds of voracious miners would crowd into tents, eating in shifts. \"The egg was one of the foodstuffs that was in such short supply.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eva Chrysanthe, an artist and chronicler of the history of the Farallones, describes San Francisco at this time as a \"protein-hungry town.\" What few chickens there were had been devoured, she says, and people were foraging. \"After you wipe out all the bird nests on shore, then you go out to the Farallones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first egg entrepreneur was Doc Robinson, a pharmacist. He and his brother-in-law, Orin, would sail out to the Farallon Islands and haul back dozens of murre eggs, which they would then sell to restaurants and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The work was \"tough, dirty and dangerous,\" says Kamiya. \"The murres lay their eggs up on these towering, steep cliffs — higher than Nob Hill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And though Robinson and his brother-in-law were able to poach $3,000 worth of eggs, they had \"no interest in going back. It was a hellish experience,\" says Crysanthe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the idea took hold: Robinson's egg business kicked off the \"egg rush.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1.jpg\" alt=\"The common murre (Uria aalge), which was a source of eggs for San Francisco's egg rush. Engraving by John Gould, William Hart, H. C. Richter.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1401\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111431\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-400x280.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-800x560.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-768x538.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-1440x1009.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-1180x827.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/commonmurre_enl-1576acf3e6876d9c770ee74f17f609527252aafa-1-960x672.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The common murre (Uria aalge), which was a source of eggs for San Francisco's egg rush. Engraving by John Gould, William Hart, H. C. Richter. \u003ccite>( Dea/G. Dagli Orti/Agostini/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The eggs of the common murre — a penguin-like bird — were the most sought-after, most delectable on the Farallones. Strange, beautiful, blue-speckled and pointy-tipped, they are about twice the size of chicken eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When fried, \"the white of the murre egg stays clear and gelatinous. The yolk is deep reddish, and very unappetizing to look at,\" says Keith Hanson, a bird illustrator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1851, six men formed the Pacific Egg Co., which claimed exclusive rights to the islands, says Peter White, author of \u003cem>The Farallon Islands: Sentinels of the Golden Gate.\u003c/em> In May, when the birds first began to lay, the company would land 10 to 30 men, mostly Italian and Greek, on the Farallones' talus-filled shores. They came in little rowboats — in itself a test of stamina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kamiya is amazed at the derring-do of these men: \"They'd send the men up to these sheer guano-stinking cliffs, being attacked by swirling gulls. These were rough-necked guys, waterfront types, climbing up and pushing eggs into their special egg pockets in their egg shirts.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1584px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs of the common murre collected from the Farallon Islands in the 1880s.\" width=\"1584\" height=\"1178\" class=\"size-full wp-image-111432\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1.jpg 1584w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-400x297.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-768x571.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-1440x1071.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egging_enl-181f70d5e4ea7f3b5efe4432cc45dd78adafef46-1-960x714.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1584px) 100vw, 1584px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs of the common murre collected from the Farallon Islands in the 1880s. \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Libraries/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the egg-pickers went in for the first time, they would smash every egg. \"That way they could be assured that the next day, when they returned, every egg gathered would be fresh,\" White says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The eggers starting coming out at about the same time the lighthouse was being built on the Farallones, says biologist Peter Pyle. \"They've got hundreds of these ships coming in response to the gold rush, and a lot of them crashed on the Farallones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a lighthouse keeper on the Farallones was a severe, lonely and harsh duty, says Gary Kamiya. \"And then they had to contend with these raucous, aggressive eggers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rival eggers would sail out to challenge them. \"One man in particular, David Batchelder, just kept showing up with his own bands of roughnecks,\" Kamiya says. \"The Great Egg Wars of the Farallones took place just a few weeks before the Battle of Gettysburg.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On June 3, 1863, three boatloads of heavily armed men came to the islands. They even had a cannon with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The guys at the egg company yelled out to them, 'Land at your peril!' \" Kamiya says. \"Batchelder said, 'I'll land! I'll go through hell!' Then he and his men spent the night drinking. They got themselves into an aggressive, alcohol-fueled state.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_111433\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-400x503.jpg\" alt='\"Scottie the egger\" wearing a shirt typical of egg hunters. The shirts had built-in pouches to make egg collecting easier.' width=\"400\" height=\"503\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-111433\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-400x503.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-800x1005.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-768x965.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-1440x1810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-1180x1483.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/08/egger1_enl-d276f0d349c6b00d32a9124e1ab4e06efb678d40-1-960x1206.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Scottie the egger\" wearing a shirt typical of egg hunters. The shirts had built-in pouches to make egg collecting easier. \u003ccite>(Arthur Bolton/California Academy of Sciences)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the egg company warned them, they opened fire. The first casualty was one of the egg company employees, Edwin Perkins, who died after being shot through the stomach. Five of the boatmen were shot, and eventually driven off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the federal government ruled all commercial eggers off of the islands. Any egging after that was done by the lighthouse-keepers. \"But it was black-market trading, trying to line their pockets with eggs,\" says Kamiya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plundering of eggs had caused the murre population to decline year after year, dropping from nearly 400,000 down to 6,000. In the early 1850s, about a half-million eggs were gathered per year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For decades, it was said that if you ate any baked goods in San Francisco, you were probably eating murre eggs,\" Kamiya says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when chickens finally got established in Petaluma, it ended up doing in the murre egg industry. The Farallones are now used by scientists to observe bird and animal life, and to track the recovery of species on the islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a robust population now, despite the best efforts of the Farallon eggers,\" Kamiya says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/111426/the-gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs","authors":["byline_bayareabites_111426"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028"],"tags":["bayareabites_33","bayareabites_15567","bayareabites_15569","bayareabites_15568","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_111428","label":"source_bayareabites_111426"},"bayareabites_83862":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_83862","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"83862","score":null,"sort":[1403643507000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","title":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit ","publishDate":1403643507,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\" alt=\"Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"3252\" height=\"1826\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83863\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/24/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mexican town of Tequila in the western state of Jalisco is the heart of a region that produces the legendary spirit. Any bottle of tequila must be made from the Weber Blue species of agave, grown and distilled in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Field after field of agave gives this land a blue hue, defining an economy and its traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83864\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f-290x217.jpe\" alt=\"Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83864\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But using just one species of blue agave to make 100 percent blue agave tequila is done through cloning the plants, without pollination or flowering. After \"doing this for so many generations, the agaves are getting weaker, and the only way to protect them is by the increased use of pesticides and herbicides,\" David Suro of the Tequila Interchange Project tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That and other environmental issues have \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em>, or tequila makers, concerned about the future of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Spirit's Hidden History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guillermo Erickson Sauza, a member of one of tequila's royal families, gives us a tour of his 125-year-old tequila distillery process in the town of Tequila on the northwest slope of the Tequila volcano. His distillery and hundreds of others, both large and small, fill the hills and valleys some 60 minutes outside Guadalajara, Jalisco's capital and Mexico's second-largest city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cenobio Sauza, his great-great grandfather, got to the town of Tequila in the 1850s when he was 16. At the time, it was a boomtown, and many people were setting up tequila distilleries there. The natural spring water, the rusty red volcanic soil, the climate all made the region perfect for the growing of blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cenobio started the brand of Tequila Sauza in 1873, and was the first to export tequila into the U.S. In 1893, Tequila Sauza made a sensation when it was served at the Chicago World's Fair. At that time the drink was called \u003cem>vino mescal\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Traditionally, Guillermo tells us, \"tequila was the drink of cement workers and bricklayers.\" At weddings and celebrations in Sauza's own family, and families like his, brandy was served, not tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> In 1946, Guillermo's grandfather Javier took over Sauza, and slowly helped make tequila what it became — one of the premier products of Mexico. In a move that shocked his family, he sold the distillery in 1976 without warning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\" alt=\"Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83875\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Through the years, the family held on to one of its small, old distilleries. About a decade ago, Javier's grandson decided to come back to Tequila and started making the drink in the old traditional way, using a stone crusher, taking a long time to age the spirit. He brought out his first brand, which he called Los Abuelos, or \"the grandparents,\" in Mexico. In the U.S., Los Abuelos is sold under the name Fortaleza, which means \"fortitude.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Agave Business Is A Casino Business'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> It takes five to eight years for the blue agave, the only kind of agave that can be used to make official appellation tequila, to mature. Growing agave is risk-filled, and requires knowledge and maintenance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83865\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746-290x184.jpg\" alt=\"Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\" width=\"290\" height=\"184\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So agave growers and tequila producers must be looking far ahead at all times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Agave business is a casino business,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tequilainterchangeproject.org/members/board/\">David Suro\u003c/a>, president of the Tequila Interchange Project, a nonprofit organization and consumer advocacy group for agave distilled spirits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same way wine producers are always wrestling with climate, weather, bugs and soil conditions, the \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> and agave producers are working just as hard. But instead of one season of growth and then harvest, they have to tend their fields for five to eight years before the sugar levels are high enough for harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suro produces a tequila, too, called Siembra Azul. \"It's kosher certified,\" he says. \"There's not a Mexican institution to certify organic. So the kosher certification is the closest [to prove how] very careful we make our tequila.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Composting Tequila\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mexican video journalist Rogelio Navarro says Guadalajara is the Silicon Valley of Mexico in many ways. \"I would compare the tequila industry to the electronic industry, which is so important to us here,\" Navarro says. That means tequila is likely to play a huge part in the future of Mexico's economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally tequila was a Mexican family business passed from generation to generation. Now that is changing. \"The biggest tequila companies are not Mexican anymore; they are internationally owned,\" he says. \"Tequila produces a lot of jobs and a lot of money, and now they just the sent the first package of tequila to China, and they're expecting to sell millions of liters of tequila in China.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Navarro notes that tequila not only means alcohol — it also means culture. It's associated with folkloric dancing, with music, with film, with tourism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The Tequila Chamber of Commerce and the Tequila Regulation Council are now very focused on what is happening with tequila all over the world, says Navarro. And they make sure that tequila produced in tequila country is actually tequila because of the agave they are using and the amount in the final product. There have long been troubles with people both in and outside of Mexico producing something they label as tequila that is not true tequila, not 100 percent blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navarro has been following some of the efforts to make tequila production more organic and sustainable, as it is an industry that produces a serious amount of waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\" alt=\"Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83879\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The cellulosic waste, or bagasse, is what is left once you cook the agave plant and chop it and put it through a mill. ... What do they do with all this organic trash?\" he says. \"They were trying to compost it, and you can use it back in the agave fields as well, but in the past it's been easier to just throw away. Now, there's a guy that decided, what are people in Brazil are doing with the cane? And he bought the machines and started compressing the bagasse and making bricks, and he started to sell them as charcoal for roasting and bricks for houses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Carlos Camarena is a third-generation family master distiller and one of the most respected \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> in Mexico. Tequila, Arandas and Atotonilco are three of the major areas where agave thrives and exceptional tequila is made. We make the pilgrimage with him to his La Altena distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, where he makes the legendary Tequila Tapatio, Tequila Ocho and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside is a huge round pit made of stone, with a stone wheel on top of it. \"What we are looking at is called a \u003cem>tahona\u003c/em>,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the wheel was turned by mules. The stone crushes the agave and squeezes out the juice. Three years ago, Carlos' father pulled out the mules and replaced them with a John Deere tractor to pull the wheel. Tequila Siete Leguas, about an hour away near Atotonilco, is one of the last distilleries to crush its agave with the huge stone wheel pulled by mules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tequila For The Next Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Altena, Camarena is thinking deeply about the environmental impact of making tequila. \"We're noticing the summers are getting hotter and hotter every year, and the winters are getting colder,\" he says. \"So much hot is making the plant grow faster, but not letting it get all the nutrients from the soil and develop the sugar content and the acidity and to be as healthy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And he notes that \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> face a particular difficulty because blue agave plants being used to produce these millions of gallons of tequila are clones from the same mother. This monoculture style of agriculture over time requires more and more pesticides and herbicides to carry on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> About eight years ago, Camarena also got interested in treating all of the residues at the distillery instead of just dumping them in the garbage. With all the organic materials it's producing, it started making an organic fertilizer that it put back on the agave fields. And the distillery started recycling all the water it uses instead of just throwing it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camarena is awaiting certification as a green industry because he is focused on controlling all aspects of the \"leftovers\" the distillery creates through the tequila-making process, to make certain it has no polluting effect, including reducing emissions into the air from its boilers and stills. He tells us, \"If I want to change the world, I need to start by changing yourself, and let's see if that attracts other people to do what they have to do in order to have a better planet for people who come after us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Agave Goddess\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carmen Villareal is one of the few women in Mexico to run a tequila company. It's called Tequila San Matias, and it's now 127 years old. Villareal tells us about Mayahuel, the pre-Columbian goddess of fertility and maternity who is a sort of patron saint of tequila and is often pictured with 200 breasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our agaves have babies,\" says Villareal. \"Normally one agave can have 10 or 12 babies, so it is about being productive.\" Villareal sees Mexico through the eyes of Mayaguel, the productivity and fertility of tequila working for the growth and wellness of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is a country with great poverty,\" she says. \"Tequila is an important income for the country. For example, our distillery is located in a tiny town, and we are practically the only source of work in the area. The way I see the industry, we we can help bring wellness and opportunity to our country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some of tequila's oldest traditions are fast being erased as international spirit conglomerates take over family businesses. And tequila makers are worried about their impact on the environment.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1403643507,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":43,"wordCount":1886},"headData":{"title":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit | KQED","description":"Some of tequila's oldest traditions are fast being erased as international spirit conglomerates take over family businesses. And tequila makers are worried about their impact on the environment.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit ","datePublished":"2014-06-24T20:58:27.000Z","dateModified":"2014-06-24T20:58:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"83862 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=83862","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/06/24/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit/","disqusTitle":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit ","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"323714694","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=323714694&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit?ft=3&f=323714694","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 10:24:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 03:28:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 10:24:24 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=323714694","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1325073894-46786d.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=323714694","path":"/bayareabites/83862/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\" alt=\"Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"3252\" height=\"1826\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83863\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/24/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mexican town of Tequila in the western state of Jalisco is the heart of a region that produces the legendary spirit. Any bottle of tequila must be made from the Weber Blue species of agave, grown and distilled in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Field after field of agave gives this land a blue hue, defining an economy and its traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83864\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f-290x217.jpe\" alt=\"Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83864\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But using just one species of blue agave to make 100 percent blue agave tequila is done through cloning the plants, without pollination or flowering. After \"doing this for so many generations, the agaves are getting weaker, and the only way to protect them is by the increased use of pesticides and herbicides,\" David Suro of the Tequila Interchange Project tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That and other environmental issues have \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em>, or tequila makers, concerned about the future of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Spirit's Hidden History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guillermo Erickson Sauza, a member of one of tequila's royal families, gives us a tour of his 125-year-old tequila distillery process in the town of Tequila on the northwest slope of the Tequila volcano. His distillery and hundreds of others, both large and small, fill the hills and valleys some 60 minutes outside Guadalajara, Jalisco's capital and Mexico's second-largest city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cenobio Sauza, his great-great grandfather, got to the town of Tequila in the 1850s when he was 16. At the time, it was a boomtown, and many people were setting up tequila distilleries there. The natural spring water, the rusty red volcanic soil, the climate all made the region perfect for the growing of blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cenobio started the brand of Tequila Sauza in 1873, and was the first to export tequila into the U.S. In 1893, Tequila Sauza made a sensation when it was served at the Chicago World's Fair. At that time the drink was called \u003cem>vino mescal\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Traditionally, Guillermo tells us, \"tequila was the drink of cement workers and bricklayers.\" At weddings and celebrations in Sauza's own family, and families like his, brandy was served, not tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> In 1946, Guillermo's grandfather Javier took over Sauza, and slowly helped make tequila what it became — one of the premier products of Mexico. In a move that shocked his family, he sold the distillery in 1976 without warning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\" alt=\"Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83875\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Through the years, the family held on to one of its small, old distilleries. About a decade ago, Javier's grandson decided to come back to Tequila and started making the drink in the old traditional way, using a stone crusher, taking a long time to age the spirit. He brought out his first brand, which he called Los Abuelos, or \"the grandparents,\" in Mexico. In the U.S., Los Abuelos is sold under the name Fortaleza, which means \"fortitude.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Agave Business Is A Casino Business'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> It takes five to eight years for the blue agave, the only kind of agave that can be used to make official appellation tequila, to mature. Growing agave is risk-filled, and requires knowledge and maintenance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83865\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746-290x184.jpg\" alt=\"Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\" width=\"290\" height=\"184\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So agave growers and tequila producers must be looking far ahead at all times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Agave business is a casino business,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tequilainterchangeproject.org/members/board/\">David Suro\u003c/a>, president of the Tequila Interchange Project, a nonprofit organization and consumer advocacy group for agave distilled spirits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same way wine producers are always wrestling with climate, weather, bugs and soil conditions, the \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> and agave producers are working just as hard. But instead of one season of growth and then harvest, they have to tend their fields for five to eight years before the sugar levels are high enough for harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suro produces a tequila, too, called Siembra Azul. \"It's kosher certified,\" he says. \"There's not a Mexican institution to certify organic. So the kosher certification is the closest [to prove how] very careful we make our tequila.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Composting Tequila\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mexican video journalist Rogelio Navarro says Guadalajara is the Silicon Valley of Mexico in many ways. \"I would compare the tequila industry to the electronic industry, which is so important to us here,\" Navarro says. That means tequila is likely to play a huge part in the future of Mexico's economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally tequila was a Mexican family business passed from generation to generation. Now that is changing. \"The biggest tequila companies are not Mexican anymore; they are internationally owned,\" he says. \"Tequila produces a lot of jobs and a lot of money, and now they just the sent the first package of tequila to China, and they're expecting to sell millions of liters of tequila in China.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Navarro notes that tequila not only means alcohol — it also means culture. It's associated with folkloric dancing, with music, with film, with tourism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The Tequila Chamber of Commerce and the Tequila Regulation Council are now very focused on what is happening with tequila all over the world, says Navarro. And they make sure that tequila produced in tequila country is actually tequila because of the agave they are using and the amount in the final product. There have long been troubles with people both in and outside of Mexico producing something they label as tequila that is not true tequila, not 100 percent blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navarro has been following some of the efforts to make tequila production more organic and sustainable, as it is an industry that produces a serious amount of waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\" alt=\"Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83879\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The cellulosic waste, or bagasse, is what is left once you cook the agave plant and chop it and put it through a mill. ... What do they do with all this organic trash?\" he says. \"They were trying to compost it, and you can use it back in the agave fields as well, but in the past it's been easier to just throw away. Now, there's a guy that decided, what are people in Brazil are doing with the cane? And he bought the machines and started compressing the bagasse and making bricks, and he started to sell them as charcoal for roasting and bricks for houses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Carlos Camarena is a third-generation family master distiller and one of the most respected \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> in Mexico. Tequila, Arandas and Atotonilco are three of the major areas where agave thrives and exceptional tequila is made. We make the pilgrimage with him to his La Altena distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, where he makes the legendary Tequila Tapatio, Tequila Ocho and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside is a huge round pit made of stone, with a stone wheel on top of it. \"What we are looking at is called a \u003cem>tahona\u003c/em>,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the wheel was turned by mules. The stone crushes the agave and squeezes out the juice. Three years ago, Carlos' father pulled out the mules and replaced them with a John Deere tractor to pull the wheel. Tequila Siete Leguas, about an hour away near Atotonilco, is one of the last distilleries to crush its agave with the huge stone wheel pulled by mules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tequila For The Next Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Altena, Camarena is thinking deeply about the environmental impact of making tequila. \"We're noticing the summers are getting hotter and hotter every year, and the winters are getting colder,\" he says. \"So much hot is making the plant grow faster, but not letting it get all the nutrients from the soil and develop the sugar content and the acidity and to be as healthy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And he notes that \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> face a particular difficulty because blue agave plants being used to produce these millions of gallons of tequila are clones from the same mother. This monoculture style of agriculture over time requires more and more pesticides and herbicides to carry on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> About eight years ago, Camarena also got interested in treating all of the residues at the distillery instead of just dumping them in the garbage. With all the organic materials it's producing, it started making an organic fertilizer that it put back on the agave fields. And the distillery started recycling all the water it uses instead of just throwing it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camarena is awaiting certification as a green industry because he is focused on controlling all aspects of the \"leftovers\" the distillery creates through the tequila-making process, to make certain it has no polluting effect, including reducing emissions into the air from its boilers and stills. He tells us, \"If I want to change the world, I need to start by changing yourself, and let's see if that attracts other people to do what they have to do in order to have a better planet for people who come after us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Agave Goddess\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carmen Villareal is one of the few women in Mexico to run a tequila company. It's called Tequila San Matias, and it's now 127 years old. Villareal tells us about Mayahuel, the pre-Columbian goddess of fertility and maternity who is a sort of patron saint of tequila and is often pictured with 200 breasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our agaves have babies,\" says Villareal. \"Normally one agave can have 10 or 12 babies, so it is about being productive.\" Villareal sees Mexico through the eyes of Mayaguel, the productivity and fertility of tequila working for the growth and wellness of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is a country with great poverty,\" she says. \"Tequila is an important income for the country. For example, our distillery is located in a tiny town, and we are practically the only source of work in the area. The way I see the industry, we we can help bring wellness and opportunity to our country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/83862/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_83862"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_9268","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_83865","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_83606":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_83606","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"83606","score":null,"sort":[1403025533000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth","title":"In Yabbies And Cappuccino, A Culinary Lifeline For Aboriginal Youth","publishDate":1403025533,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/kylie-kwong-edit_enl-b9ec037027ab9b0beea688fd85f5816aee416fae.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-83607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/kylie-kwong-edit_enl-b9ec037027ab9b0beea688fd85f5816aee416fae.jpg\" alt=\"Australian celebrity chef and author Kylie Kwong (left) teaches a cooking workshop at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk aborginal youth. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Australian celebrity chef and author Kylie Kwong (left) teaches a cooking workshop at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk aborginal youth. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/17/322569875/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140617_me_in_yabbies_and_cappuccino_a_culinary_lifeline_for_aboriginal_youth.mp3\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/17/322569875/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/17/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you teach an aboriginal man (or woman) to make a cappuccino, can you feed his career for a lifetime?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the hope at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students there are learning the skills to be cooks, restaurant and hotel workers, and caterers. The school is also helping to reconnect them to their culture, disrupted when many of their grandparents were kidnapped off the land, forced into missionary schools and denied the right to vote until the 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo is an aboriginal elder who heads the school. She is from the Gamillera tribe and grew up on a reservation about 500 miles from Sydney in New South Wales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83608\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/aunty-beryl-edit-f91d5cb11bb2876ff7145d504832b843c31239d5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83608\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/aunty-beryl-edit-f91d5cb11bb2876ff7145d504832b843c31239d5-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo heads Yaama Dhiyaan, the first cooking and hospitality training college for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo heads Yaama Dhiyaan, the first cooking and hospitality training college for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They asked me to name the school,\" says Aunty Beryl, \"so I thought I might as well say 'hello' in my own Yuwaalaraay language. \u003cem>Yaama\u003c/em> means 'hello' and \u003cem>Dhiyaan \u003c/em>means 'family.' So it's 'Hello family and friends' when you come here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the skills the students learn at Yaama Dhiyaan is how to make cappuccinos and other specialty coffee drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of aboriginal people wouldn't go near a cappuccino machine,\" she laughs. \"Actually, we don't drink it. We were never brought up with coffee. ... We were tea drinkers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The school takes about 20 students per session for the eight-week cooking and hospitality course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've been cooking all my life. I'm from the bush,\" says James Wilden, a 20-year-old student who recently completed the program. \"I've cooked kangaroo, goanna [a local lizard], yabbies [crustaceans].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wilden grew up in a family with 15 brothers and eight sisters. Times got hard. He and most of his brothers have been in and out of jail all their lives. While he was in the school, Wilden was incarcerated in a jail but was allowed to leave to take daily classes at Yaama Dhiyaan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was younger I made some bad decisions,\" Wilden says. \"That's why I'm in this course: to make my life better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83609\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/james-edit-3f94b5edf9db51b8ba3a3101c41e3313986fccf8.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83609\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/james-edit-3f94b5edf9db51b8ba3a3101c41e3313986fccf8-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"When James Wilden was a student in Yaama Dhiyaan's hospitality program, he was incarcerated in jail. He has since found work cooking in restaurants in Australia's Northern Territory. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When James Wilden was a student in Yaama Dhiyaan's hospitality program, he was incarcerated in jail. He has since found work cooking in restaurants in Australia's Northern Territory. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Most of the people in our class are aboriginal — boys, girls, mothers, fathers, cousins,\" says 20-year-old Molly Meribito. Her family is from the Bundjalung tribe from the border of Queensland and New South Wales. She got pregnant at 16, and since she hasn't had much to do lately, her family recommended that she go learn with Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're lucky if we get 12 to stay\" in the program, says Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes they can't cope,\" says Aunty Beryl. \"When you're ready, you come back. And we've had that happen to one of our young lads. He went away for a year, and he came back and he said, 'Aunty Beryl, I'm ready to be a chef.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classified As Unemployable\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Australia's history of racial discrimination against the Aborigines is a long one. And young members of this minority group who have criminal records and previous drug histories, or who got pregnant as teenagers, are not who people usually want to hire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditionally, the students that we train are classified as unemployable — that's what the society has labeled them as,\" says Dani Hore, who manages the Aboriginal Employment Program that oversees Yaama Dhiyaan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Employment Program also offers a carpentry and construction course downstairs from the cooking school. Aunty Beryl's students prepare lunch each day for themselves and the students studying to be electricians, carpenters and plumbers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So many young people don't even have a home to live in,\" Hore says. \"One student, who we actually got employment for, was living in a tree. He had nowhere to live, and the tree was safe because it was up off the ground.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bush Tucker\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as many chefs and traditional cooks in Australia are interested in integrating traditional foods into modern-day cooking, the students are learning to prepare and eat Chinese stir-fry, French baguettes, Italian pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The through line is cooking fresh, local and seasonal whenever possible. That, for Aunty Beryl, leads to bush tucker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bush tucker is what we got off the land, and that is why we are introducing it again, connecting students to their culture through food,\" says Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have your fruits, nuts, yams,\" Aunty Beryl lists. \"You have your meats — kangaroo, wallaby, wild buffaloes up north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also lemon myrtle, quandongs (an indigenous peach), marigold (a native spinach), wattleseeds from the Acacia tree, and salt bush, a shrub that covers large areas of dry, inland Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have your seafood like barramundi,\" she adds. \"It's got a real bushy sort of flavor. It's got that woody, tart flavor. Wrap it in gum leaves and throw it on an open fire. Then it will cook in its own oils.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another favorite of Aunty Beryl is the finger lime. \"I call it the aboriginal caviar,\" she says. \"When you split it and open it up, it's got little lime modules inside that look like caviar. They are really great on fresh oysters.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You Can't Eat Your Totem\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students are also learning to make emu prosciutto. But Aunty Beryl doesn't eat the ostrichlike bird that some say tastes like steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My totem is an emu, so I don't eat it,\" she says. \"It's an animal that we worship.\" A totem is a being, an animal or plant, that serves as a sacred symbol to an aboriginal clan or tribe. A totem connects people, ancestors and mythic past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83610\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/logo-edit-bfff8a159727dee67298809ca526d1c05f5733b6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/logo-edit-bfff8a159727dee67298809ca526d1c05f5733b6-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The logo of Yaama Dhiyaan Hospitality Training Center in Sydney features an emu, the totem of Aunty Beryl, the aboriginal elder who heads the program. Among the indigenous tribes of Australia, it is forbidden to eat your totem. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The logo of Yaama Dhiyaan Hospitality Training Center in Sydney features an emu, the totem of Aunty Beryl, the aboriginal elder who heads the program. Among the indigenous tribes of Australia, it is forbidden to eat your totem. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Kangaroo, goanna, dolphins — whatever totem your aboriginal tribe has, you can't kill, touch or eat,\" says student James Wilden. \"I'm an emu. If I kill an emu, it's like killing my brother, my sister or my mother.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ricardo Golding's totem is a turtle. He has come to Yaama Dhiyaan just out of high school. \"I had nothing to do,\" says the 17-year-old. \"I'm not that smart, but I'm doing my work. I used to get picked on a lot at school, because of the sound of my voice. The way I act. I was very afraid to go into class. I missed out on a lot of lessons. Here, the cooking is the part I like the most.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The biggest thing our students or anybody has to deal with,\" says Aunty Beryl, \"is their self-confidence.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Stolen Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of the treatment of native cultures in Australia is a dark one. Whole generations of children were taken away from their parents, forced into missionary schools, native language forbidden, traditional foods taken away, whole clans forced off their own lands and onto reservations, cultures denied the right to vote until the 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamie Rayburch works with Aunty Beryl, helping out with the hospitality and training program. \"My grandfather was part of the 'Stolen Generation.' He was stolen away when he was 5 years old and put into a cattle ranch and then into an all-boys orphanage. He never knew his parents. My grandmother's the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm 24 years old,\" says Jamie, \"and I'm still trying to understand what that's all about and how that affected my family, my culture, myself. I think that this generation — the Stolen Generation — has kind of almost been forgotten, where our culture came from, where the food derives from as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dani Hore from the Employment Program says the aboriginal teachers and mentors at Yaama Dhiyaan are providing important role models for the youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once these young people come to Yaama Dhiyaan,\" says Dani, \"they know that they are in a caring, loving environment where they are going to be taught vocational skills. But they are also going to be taught about self-respect and self-esteem and life skills that a parent would normally teach about punctuality, cleanliness, how to talk to people, how to eat together. It's a very short period of time, but it's quite transformational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'It's James' Journey Now'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with learning to make lemon myrtle rose tarts, the perfect long black coffee and emu prosciutto, and how to card people and look for fake IDs to make sure people walking into a bar are old enough to drink — all skills required in Australia's hospitality and cooking industry — Yaama Dhiyaan is providing a vision for a future, and a sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James Wilden is preparing to graduate from his program in the next few weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just love cooking,\" James says. \"I love the smell. When I get out and get out of trouble, I want to be a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James is eager to start his work, but he tears up at the thought of leaving the deep community of this Australian hidden kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before he gets too broken up, Aunty Beryl speaks for her school. \"We're looking at James going up into the Northern Territory and becoming an apprentice chef up there. I know James will be a success because his heart is in it. At the end of the day, it's James' journey now, once he leaves here. But, we're only a phone call away, because that's what Yaama's all about that. We're always going to be there as part of his journey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Australia has a long, dark history of racial discrimination against the Aborigines. A cooking and hospitality program tries to help youth discover their culture and build confidence and competence.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552419755,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":52,"wordCount":1805},"headData":{"title":"In Yabbies And Cappuccino, A Culinary Lifeline For Aboriginal Youth | KQED","description":"Australia has a long, dark history of racial discrimination against the Aborigines. A cooking and hospitality program tries to help youth discover their culture and build confidence and competence.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"In Yabbies And Cappuccino, A Culinary Lifeline For Aboriginal Youth","datePublished":"2014-06-17T17:18:53.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-12T19:42:35.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"83606 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=83606","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/06/17/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth/","disqusTitle":"In Yabbies And Cappuccino, A Culinary Lifeline For Aboriginal Youth","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"322569875","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=322569875&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/17/322569875/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth?ft=3&f=322569875","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 17 Jun 2014 09:10:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 17 Jun 2014 04:41:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 17 Jun 2014 09:10:05 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140617_me_in_yabbies_and_cappuccino_a_culinary_lifeline_for_aboriginal_youth.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=322569875","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1322800447-e9c671.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=322569875","audioTrackLength":458,"path":"/bayareabites/83606/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140617_me_in_yabbies_and_cappuccino_a_culinary_lifeline_for_aboriginal_youth.mp3","audioDuration":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/kylie-kwong-edit_enl-b9ec037027ab9b0beea688fd85f5816aee416fae.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-83607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/kylie-kwong-edit_enl-b9ec037027ab9b0beea688fd85f5816aee416fae.jpg\" alt=\"Australian celebrity chef and author Kylie Kwong (left) teaches a cooking workshop at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk aborginal youth. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Australian celebrity chef and author Kylie Kwong (left) teaches a cooking workshop at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk aborginal youth. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/17/322569875/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140617_me_in_yabbies_and_cappuccino_a_culinary_lifeline_for_aboriginal_youth.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/17/322569875/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/17/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you teach an aboriginal man (or woman) to make a cappuccino, can you feed his career for a lifetime?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the hope at Yaama Dhiyaan, a cooking and hospitality school for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students there are learning the skills to be cooks, restaurant and hotel workers, and caterers. The school is also helping to reconnect them to their culture, disrupted when many of their grandparents were kidnapped off the land, forced into missionary schools and denied the right to vote until the 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo is an aboriginal elder who heads the school. She is from the Gamillera tribe and grew up on a reservation about 500 miles from Sydney in New South Wales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83608\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/aunty-beryl-edit-f91d5cb11bb2876ff7145d504832b843c31239d5.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83608\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/aunty-beryl-edit-f91d5cb11bb2876ff7145d504832b843c31239d5-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo heads Yaama Dhiyaan, the first cooking and hospitality training college for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo heads Yaama Dhiyaan, the first cooking and hospitality training college for at-risk indigenous young people in Australia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They asked me to name the school,\" says Aunty Beryl, \"so I thought I might as well say 'hello' in my own Yuwaalaraay language. \u003cem>Yaama\u003c/em> means 'hello' and \u003cem>Dhiyaan \u003c/em>means 'family.' So it's 'Hello family and friends' when you come here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the skills the students learn at Yaama Dhiyaan is how to make cappuccinos and other specialty coffee drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of aboriginal people wouldn't go near a cappuccino machine,\" she laughs. \"Actually, we don't drink it. We were never brought up with coffee. ... We were tea drinkers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The school takes about 20 students per session for the eight-week cooking and hospitality course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've been cooking all my life. I'm from the bush,\" says James Wilden, a 20-year-old student who recently completed the program. \"I've cooked kangaroo, goanna [a local lizard], yabbies [crustaceans].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wilden grew up in a family with 15 brothers and eight sisters. Times got hard. He and most of his brothers have been in and out of jail all their lives. While he was in the school, Wilden was incarcerated in a jail but was allowed to leave to take daily classes at Yaama Dhiyaan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was younger I made some bad decisions,\" Wilden says. \"That's why I'm in this course: to make my life better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83609\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/james-edit-3f94b5edf9db51b8ba3a3101c41e3313986fccf8.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83609\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/james-edit-3f94b5edf9db51b8ba3a3101c41e3313986fccf8-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"When James Wilden was a student in Yaama Dhiyaan's hospitality program, he was incarcerated in jail. He has since found work cooking in restaurants in Australia's Northern Territory. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When James Wilden was a student in Yaama Dhiyaan's hospitality program, he was incarcerated in jail. He has since found work cooking in restaurants in Australia's Northern Territory. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Most of the people in our class are aboriginal — boys, girls, mothers, fathers, cousins,\" says 20-year-old Molly Meribito. Her family is from the Bundjalung tribe from the border of Queensland and New South Wales. She got pregnant at 16, and since she hasn't had much to do lately, her family recommended that she go learn with Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're lucky if we get 12 to stay\" in the program, says Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes they can't cope,\" says Aunty Beryl. \"When you're ready, you come back. And we've had that happen to one of our young lads. He went away for a year, and he came back and he said, 'Aunty Beryl, I'm ready to be a chef.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classified As Unemployable\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Australia's history of racial discrimination against the Aborigines is a long one. And young members of this minority group who have criminal records and previous drug histories, or who got pregnant as teenagers, are not who people usually want to hire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditionally, the students that we train are classified as unemployable — that's what the society has labeled them as,\" says Dani Hore, who manages the Aboriginal Employment Program that oversees Yaama Dhiyaan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Employment Program also offers a carpentry and construction course downstairs from the cooking school. Aunty Beryl's students prepare lunch each day for themselves and the students studying to be electricians, carpenters and plumbers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So many young people don't even have a home to live in,\" Hore says. \"One student, who we actually got employment for, was living in a tree. He had nowhere to live, and the tree was safe because it was up off the ground.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bush Tucker\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as many chefs and traditional cooks in Australia are interested in integrating traditional foods into modern-day cooking, the students are learning to prepare and eat Chinese stir-fry, French baguettes, Italian pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The through line is cooking fresh, local and seasonal whenever possible. That, for Aunty Beryl, leads to bush tucker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bush tucker is what we got off the land, and that is why we are introducing it again, connecting students to their culture through food,\" says Aunty Beryl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have your fruits, nuts, yams,\" Aunty Beryl lists. \"You have your meats — kangaroo, wallaby, wild buffaloes up north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also lemon myrtle, quandongs (an indigenous peach), marigold (a native spinach), wattleseeds from the Acacia tree, and salt bush, a shrub that covers large areas of dry, inland Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have your seafood like barramundi,\" she adds. \"It's got a real bushy sort of flavor. It's got that woody, tart flavor. Wrap it in gum leaves and throw it on an open fire. Then it will cook in its own oils.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another favorite of Aunty Beryl is the finger lime. \"I call it the aboriginal caviar,\" she says. \"When you split it and open it up, it's got little lime modules inside that look like caviar. They are really great on fresh oysters.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You Can't Eat Your Totem\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students are also learning to make emu prosciutto. But Aunty Beryl doesn't eat the ostrichlike bird that some say tastes like steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My totem is an emu, so I don't eat it,\" she says. \"It's an animal that we worship.\" A totem is a being, an animal or plant, that serves as a sacred symbol to an aboriginal clan or tribe. A totem connects people, ancestors and mythic past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83610\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/logo-edit-bfff8a159727dee67298809ca526d1c05f5733b6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-83610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/logo-edit-bfff8a159727dee67298809ca526d1c05f5733b6-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The logo of Yaama Dhiyaan Hospitality Training Center in Sydney features an emu, the totem of Aunty Beryl, the aboriginal elder who heads the program. Among the indigenous tribes of Australia, it is forbidden to eat your totem. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The logo of Yaama Dhiyaan Hospitality Training Center in Sydney features an emu, the totem of Aunty Beryl, the aboriginal elder who heads the program. Among the indigenous tribes of Australia, it is forbidden to eat your totem. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Kangaroo, goanna, dolphins — whatever totem your aboriginal tribe has, you can't kill, touch or eat,\" says student James Wilden. \"I'm an emu. If I kill an emu, it's like killing my brother, my sister or my mother.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ricardo Golding's totem is a turtle. He has come to Yaama Dhiyaan just out of high school. \"I had nothing to do,\" says the 17-year-old. \"I'm not that smart, but I'm doing my work. I used to get picked on a lot at school, because of the sound of my voice. The way I act. I was very afraid to go into class. I missed out on a lot of lessons. Here, the cooking is the part I like the most.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The biggest thing our students or anybody has to deal with,\" says Aunty Beryl, \"is their self-confidence.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Stolen Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of the treatment of native cultures in Australia is a dark one. Whole generations of children were taken away from their parents, forced into missionary schools, native language forbidden, traditional foods taken away, whole clans forced off their own lands and onto reservations, cultures denied the right to vote until the 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamie Rayburch works with Aunty Beryl, helping out with the hospitality and training program. \"My grandfather was part of the 'Stolen Generation.' He was stolen away when he was 5 years old and put into a cattle ranch and then into an all-boys orphanage. He never knew his parents. My grandmother's the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm 24 years old,\" says Jamie, \"and I'm still trying to understand what that's all about and how that affected my family, my culture, myself. I think that this generation — the Stolen Generation — has kind of almost been forgotten, where our culture came from, where the food derives from as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dani Hore from the Employment Program says the aboriginal teachers and mentors at Yaama Dhiyaan are providing important role models for the youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once these young people come to Yaama Dhiyaan,\" says Dani, \"they know that they are in a caring, loving environment where they are going to be taught vocational skills. But they are also going to be taught about self-respect and self-esteem and life skills that a parent would normally teach about punctuality, cleanliness, how to talk to people, how to eat together. It's a very short period of time, but it's quite transformational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'It's James' Journey Now'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with learning to make lemon myrtle rose tarts, the perfect long black coffee and emu prosciutto, and how to card people and look for fake IDs to make sure people walking into a bar are old enough to drink — all skills required in Australia's hospitality and cooking industry — Yaama Dhiyaan is providing a vision for a future, and a sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James Wilden is preparing to graduate from his program in the next few weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just love cooking,\" James says. \"I love the smell. When I get out and get out of trouble, I want to be a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James is eager to start his work, but he tears up at the thought of leaving the deep community of this Australian hidden kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before he gets too broken up, Aunty Beryl speaks for her school. \"We're looking at James going up into the Northern Territory and becoming an apprentice chef up there. I know James will be a success because his heart is in it. At the end of the day, it's James' journey now, once he leaves here. But, we're only a phone call away, because that's what Yaama's all about that. We're always going to be there as part of his journey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/83606/in-yabbies-and-cappuccino-a-culinary-lifeline-for-aboriginal-youth","authors":["byline_bayareabites_83606"],"categories":["bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_16344","bayareabites_701","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_9006","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_83607","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82781":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82781","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82781","score":null,"sort":[1401811791000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-atomic-particles-helped-solve-a-wine-fraud-mystery","title":"How Atomic Particles Helped Solve A Wine Fraud Mystery","publishDate":1401811791,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/philippe_hubert_slide-f9313655df965457a08776d5cbc4b4cf156b94fa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/philippe_hubert_slide-f9313655df965457a08776d5cbc4b4cf156b94fa.jpg\" alt='French physicist Philippe Hubert uses gamma rays to detect radioactivity in wine. \"In the wine is the story of the Atomic Age,\" he says. Photo: C J Walker/Courtesy of William Koch' width=\"1200\" height=\"799\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French physicist Philippe Hubert uses gamma rays to detect radioactivity in wine. \"In the wine is the story of the Atomic Age,\" he says. Photo: C J Walker/Courtesy of William Koch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/03/318241738/how-atomic-particles-became-the-smoking-gun-in-wine-fraud-mystery\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140603_me_how_atomic_particles_became_the_smoking_gun_in_wine_fraud_mystery.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a laboratory, deep under a mile-high stretch of the Alps on the French-Italian border, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cenbg.in2p3.fr/-La-composition-du-groupe-?lang=en\">Philippe Hubert\u003c/a>, a physicist at the University of Bordeaux, is testing the authenticity of a bottle of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are looking for radioactivity in the wine,\" says Hubert. \"Most of the time the collectors send me bottles of wine because they want to know if it is fake or not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By taking the bottle in the hand and putting it close to a detector, Hubert records the gamma rays. The level of those gamma rays emitted can often tell him something about when the wine was bottled. For example, if it was bottled before about 1945, there shouldn't be any cesium 137 — radioactive evidence of exploded nuclear bombs and the Atomic Age — in the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's not the only way to do it. Maureen Downey, wine detective and founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaiconsulting.com/about-us/maureen-downey/\">Chai Consulting\u003c/a> wine appraisal and authentication in San Francisco, has a toolkit of items she uses to forensically examine bottles of wine — razor blades, magnifying glasses, jewelers loupes, flashlights, blue light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Counterfeit wines have become a much bigger problem of late,\" says Downey. \"In the last year, I myself have written reports for about $5 million worth of fakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as fraud goes up, experts are going to greater lengths than ever before to authenticate wine — the fibers of the label paper, the tiny pits in the glass, the depth of the punt in the bottom of the bottle, all hold clues. And so do the corks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Fraudsters put a lot of work into trying to make their corks look distressed,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ft.com/life-arts/jancis-robinson\">Jancis Robinson\u003c/a>, a longtime wine writer for \u003cem>The Financial Times\u003c/em>. \"It's important that the label look like it's been around the block a bit, so they might rub it with a bit of earth or coffee grounds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Uncovering The Jefferson Bottles\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are two ways to counterfeit wine,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.patrickraddenkeefe.com/bio/\">Patrick Radden Keefe\u003c/a>, a staff writer at \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/\">The New Yorker\u003c/a>. \"You're either messing with the bottle or you're messing with the wine itself.\" He wrote a story a few years ago about one of the most intriguing fakes of all: \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2007/09/03/070903fa_fact_keefe\">the Jefferson bottles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/atomic-wine-tj-wine_custom-28dba66d3b0ff140085afd025d39bf16abaca645.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/atomic-wine-tj-wine_custom-28dba66d3b0ff140085afd025d39bf16abaca645.jpg\" alt='The \"Jefferson bottles\" that Bill Koch paid some half a million dollars for and later discovered were fakes. Photo: CJ Walker/Courtesy of William Koch' width=\"1000\" height=\"808\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"Jefferson bottles\" that Bill Koch paid some half a million dollars for and later discovered were fakes. Photo: CJ Walker/Courtesy of William Koch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The saga of the Jefferson bottles begins in 1985 at a wine auction at Christie's in London where they auctioned off a bottle of 1787 Lafite, from one of the finest vineyards in France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a very old bottle inscribed in a spindly hand with 1787, Lafite, and the letters 'Th.J,' \"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says Keefe. \"Christie's said that evidence suggested that this bottle came from a collection of old French wines which had belonged to Thomas Jefferson.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bottle sold for about $157,000 to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.forbes.com/sites/deborahljacobs/2013/04/08/in-billionaires-legal-crusade-against-counterfeit-wine-money-is-the-least-of-it/\">Forbes family\u003c/a> — the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold at auction. Keefe says that when Malcolm Forbes was told he'd won the bid, he said, \"It's more fun than the opera glasses Lincoln was holding when he was shot. And we have those, too.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, wine collectors began jockeying to get hold of other Jefferson bottles as they began to emerge on the market. Bill Koch, whose brothers Charles and David of Koch Industries are often referred to as the Koch brothers, is an avid collector of art, Western Americana and wine. He purchased four of the Jefferson bottles in the late 1980s for a half-million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people came to visit and have wine in his capacious wine cellar at his home in Palm Beach,\" says Keefe, \"Bill Koch would proudly show off his Jefferson bottles.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, when the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston was preparing for an exhibit of Koch's collection, it contacted the \u003ca href=\"http://www.monticello.org/site/about/thomas-jefferson-foundation\">Thomas Jefferson Foundation\u003c/a> at Monticello to verify the provenance of the wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All of us at Monticello at that time were very skeptical\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>about any connection between Jefferson and these wine bottles,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.monticello.org/site/plantation-and-slavery/cinder-stanton-author-those-who-labor-my-happiness-slavery-thomas-jeffer\">Lucia (Cinder) Stanton\u003c/a>, a senior historian who has worked at Monticello for over 30 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jefferson was the \"leading wine connoisseur of the Republic, the presiding expert in French wine in this country,\" Stanton says. He ordered wine for George Washington, and he wrote out descriptions of the first growths and best wines in France for a number of American merchants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was also a meticulous record keeper who recorded every aspect of his life in detail. When he returned from France he had the wines he'd purchased for himself and President Washington carefully shipped to the U.S. According to his detailed books, they all arrived intact, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In his vast records of over 60,000 documents,\" says Stanton, \"there was nothing that suggested Jefferson had ever ordered any of these wines. In the so-called Jefferson bottles, there were about a dozen bottles including a 1784 and a 1787 Chateaux d'Yquem, a 1787 Lafite, a Margaux. Most of them were 1787, a vintage Jefferson never ordered in his life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Saddle Up'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bill Koch realized that he had potentially been crossed, he contacted Jim Elroy, a former FBI agent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Elroy is a kind of a genial, bloodhound of a guy,\" says Keefe, the reporter. The ringtone on his cellphone is the whistled theme to the Clint Eastwood cowboy film, \u003cem>The Good, The Bad and the Ugly\u003c/em>. \"So Koch says to Elroy: 'Saddle up.' And Elroy did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elroy put together a team of wine experts, including a former Scotland Yard inspector in England and a former MI5 agent in Germany, and launched an international investigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I identified the perpetrator as a man named Hardy Rodenstock,\" says Elroy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82791\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/lafite-kitchensisters.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/lafite-kitchensisters.jpg\" alt=\"Bottles of vintage wine dating back to the end of the 18th century are carefully labeled and stored in the cellars of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Bordeaux, France. Photo: Adam Woolfitt/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82791\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bottles of vintage wine dating back to the end of the 18th century are carefully labeled and stored in the cellars of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Bordeaux, France. Photo: Adam Woolfitt/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hardy Rodenstock was a former music publisher who managed German pop acts. He had been a fixture on the European wine scene since the 1980s. He was well-known for hosting lavish, flamboyant wine tastings inviting celebrities, dignitaries and wine critics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hardy I met quite a few times,\" says wine expert Jancis Robinson. \"Hardy supposedly found the Jefferson bottles in a bricked-up cellar in Paris, but he couldn't give anymore details. He was never specific about exactly how many bottles there were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cesium 137 Test \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jim Elroy had a hunch that the wine in the Jefferson bottles did not date back to the 18th century, but he needed a way to prove it, preferably without opening the bottle and destroying its contents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3282px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/17532707_h5983090-07318bc3d05e76ed1b922adbfb8193327b82ff77.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/17532707_h5983090-07318bc3d05e76ed1b922adbfb8193327b82ff77.jpg\" alt=\"Herve Guegan of the Nuclear Research Centre of Bordeaux runs a test on a 1944 vintage bottle of Medoc wine. Photo: Regis Duvignau/Reuters /Landov\" width=\"3282\" height=\"2463\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Herve Guegan of the Nuclear Research Centre of Bordeaux runs a test on a 1944 vintage bottle of Medoc wine. Photo: Regis Duvignau/Reuters /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I started looking in \u003cem>Scientific American\u003c/em> magazine,\" said Elroy, \"and I found an article that Philippe Hubert, a French physicist, had written about using low-level gamma ray detection for cesium 137 to date wine. Cesium 137 did not exist on this planet until we exploded the first atomic bomb.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As physicist Philippe Hubert explains: \"The cesium radioactivity we find in the wines reflects exactly the history of the Atomic Age. It is radioactive isotope, which is not natural. It's a fission product. First you had the development of the nuclear bomb: Hiroshima, Nagasaki. Then in the '50s and '60s, the Cold War between the U.S. and Soviets, and the nuclear atmospheric tests. Then in 1986 — the Chernobyl accident, which released a lot of cesium activity into the atmosphere. And then Fukushima Daiichi in Japan — we are following that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This radioactivity is everywhere on Earth — in our food, clothing, the cells of our body. \"It is in the atmosphere,\" says Hubert. \"And then with rain this radioactivity falls on the grapes. When you make the wine, this comes into the wine and stays into the wine.\"\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jim Elroy was confident that this was going to be the smoking gun that would prove Rodenstock guilty of fabricating the Jefferson bottles. He personally flew to the French-Italian border where Hubert was going to do the test, carrying the Jefferson bottles in bulletproof cases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at the level of gamma rays emitted from a bottle of wine,\" Elroy explains, Hubert could determine when the wine was bottle. Obviously, if it was bottled before about 1945, there shouldn't be any Cesium 137 in the wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment took place a mile underground to shield the test from the gamma rays in the atmosphere. \"In order to shield the detector even further,\" says Elroy, \"we had to use lead that was smelted prior to 1945. In this case, it was Roman lead smelted shortly after the birth of Christ.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hubert subjected the Jefferson bottles to the test. \"We don't need to open the bottles,\" says Hubert. \"The gamma rays can escape the wine and cross the thickness of the glass without any problem.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately,\" says Hubert, \"we could not detect any cesium inside the wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it was certain that the wine had been bottled before the Atomic Age. But there was no way this test could prove whether or not this wine was as old as Jefferson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipes And Dentistry Provide More Clues\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Counterfeiting wine is nothing new. People have been doing it for centuries. \"Louis XIV had a royal decree that all of the wine barrels coming from the Côtes du Rhône area had to be stamped with a CDR to prove that they were Côtes du Rhône,\" says wine detective Maureen Downey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In modern times, fraudster Rudy Kurniawan, who is now in jail for creating and selling counterfeit wine, built an entire laboratory in his condo in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kurniawan's kitchen was literally a factory for making counterfeit wine,\" says Downey, who went through the evidence with the FBI. \"He had recipes written on bottles in his kitchen. For example, his recipe for 1945 Mouton Rothschild said: one-half 1988 Pichon Melant; one-quarter oxidized Bordeaux; and one-quarter Napa Cab.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're not talking about plonk that is being put into these bottles,\" says Downey. \"These are careful recipes. I don't know if Kurniawan was a great chef or a chemist.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about those Jefferson bottles? Bill Koch's investigators tracked down the people in Germany who had engraved the Jefferson bottles with Th.J. They used a modern dentist tool that could not possibly have existed in the time of Thomas Jefferson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One expert likens it to Abraham Lincoln holding an iPhone,\" says Downey. \"When you've got Abraham Lincoln in a photograph holding an iPhone, we've got a problem.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"By testing for radiation, detectives showed that wine bottles purportedly from Thomas Jefferson's collection were fake. And with wine fraud rising, authentication is getting even more sophisticated.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1409350606,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":50,"wordCount":1934},"headData":{"title":"How Atomic Particles Helped Solve A Wine Fraud Mystery | KQED","description":"By testing for radiation, detectives showed that wine bottles purportedly from Thomas Jefferson's collection were fake. And with wine fraud rising, authentication is getting even more sophisticated.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Atomic Particles Helped Solve A Wine Fraud Mystery","datePublished":"2014-06-03T16:09:51.000Z","dateModified":"2014-08-29T22:16:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82781 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82781","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/06/03/how-atomic-particles-helped-solve-a-wine-fraud-mystery/","disqusTitle":"How Atomic Particles Helped Solve A Wine Fraud Mystery","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"318241738","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=318241738&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/03/318241738/how-atomic-particles-became-the-smoking-gun-in-wine-fraud-mystery?ft=3&f=318241738","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 03 Jun 2014 11:46:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 03 Jun 2014 03:31:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 03 Jun 2014 11:46:42 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140603_me_how_atomic_particles_became_the_smoking_gun_in_wine_fraud_mystery.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=318241738","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1318414924-911ed8.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=318241738","path":"/bayareabites/82781/how-atomic-particles-helped-solve-a-wine-fraud-mystery","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140603_me_how_atomic_particles_became_the_smoking_gun_in_wine_fraud_mystery.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/philippe_hubert_slide-f9313655df965457a08776d5cbc4b4cf156b94fa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/philippe_hubert_slide-f9313655df965457a08776d5cbc4b4cf156b94fa.jpg\" alt='French physicist Philippe Hubert uses gamma rays to detect radioactivity in wine. \"In the wine is the story of the Atomic Age,\" he says. Photo: C J Walker/Courtesy of William Koch' width=\"1200\" height=\"799\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">French physicist Philippe Hubert uses gamma rays to detect radioactivity in wine. \"In the wine is the story of the Atomic Age,\" he says. Photo: C J Walker/Courtesy of William Koch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/03/318241738/how-atomic-particles-became-the-smoking-gun-in-wine-fraud-mystery\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140603_me_how_atomic_particles_became_the_smoking_gun_in_wine_fraud_mystery.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a laboratory, deep under a mile-high stretch of the Alps on the French-Italian border, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cenbg.in2p3.fr/-La-composition-du-groupe-?lang=en\">Philippe Hubert\u003c/a>, a physicist at the University of Bordeaux, is testing the authenticity of a bottle of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are looking for radioactivity in the wine,\" says Hubert. \"Most of the time the collectors send me bottles of wine because they want to know if it is fake or not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By taking the bottle in the hand and putting it close to a detector, Hubert records the gamma rays. The level of those gamma rays emitted can often tell him something about when the wine was bottled. For example, if it was bottled before about 1945, there shouldn't be any cesium 137 — radioactive evidence of exploded nuclear bombs and the Atomic Age — in the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's not the only way to do it. Maureen Downey, wine detective and founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chaiconsulting.com/about-us/maureen-downey/\">Chai Consulting\u003c/a> wine appraisal and authentication in San Francisco, has a toolkit of items she uses to forensically examine bottles of wine — razor blades, magnifying glasses, jewelers loupes, flashlights, blue light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Counterfeit wines have become a much bigger problem of late,\" says Downey. \"In the last year, I myself have written reports for about $5 million worth of fakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as fraud goes up, experts are going to greater lengths than ever before to authenticate wine — the fibers of the label paper, the tiny pits in the glass, the depth of the punt in the bottom of the bottle, all hold clues. And so do the corks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Fraudsters put a lot of work into trying to make their corks look distressed,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ft.com/life-arts/jancis-robinson\">Jancis Robinson\u003c/a>, a longtime wine writer for \u003cem>The Financial Times\u003c/em>. \"It's important that the label look like it's been around the block a bit, so they might rub it with a bit of earth or coffee grounds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Uncovering The Jefferson Bottles\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are two ways to counterfeit wine,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.patrickraddenkeefe.com/bio/\">Patrick Radden Keefe\u003c/a>, a staff writer at \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/\">The New Yorker\u003c/a>. \"You're either messing with the bottle or you're messing with the wine itself.\" He wrote a story a few years ago about one of the most intriguing fakes of all: \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2007/09/03/070903fa_fact_keefe\">the Jefferson bottles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/atomic-wine-tj-wine_custom-28dba66d3b0ff140085afd025d39bf16abaca645.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/atomic-wine-tj-wine_custom-28dba66d3b0ff140085afd025d39bf16abaca645.jpg\" alt='The \"Jefferson bottles\" that Bill Koch paid some half a million dollars for and later discovered were fakes. Photo: CJ Walker/Courtesy of William Koch' width=\"1000\" height=\"808\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"Jefferson bottles\" that Bill Koch paid some half a million dollars for and later discovered were fakes. Photo: CJ Walker/Courtesy of William Koch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The saga of the Jefferson bottles begins in 1985 at a wine auction at Christie's in London where they auctioned off a bottle of 1787 Lafite, from one of the finest vineyards in France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a very old bottle inscribed in a spindly hand with 1787, Lafite, and the letters 'Th.J,' \"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says Keefe. \"Christie's said that evidence suggested that this bottle came from a collection of old French wines which had belonged to Thomas Jefferson.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bottle sold for about $157,000 to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.forbes.com/sites/deborahljacobs/2013/04/08/in-billionaires-legal-crusade-against-counterfeit-wine-money-is-the-least-of-it/\">Forbes family\u003c/a> — the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold at auction. Keefe says that when Malcolm Forbes was told he'd won the bid, he said, \"It's more fun than the opera glasses Lincoln was holding when he was shot. And we have those, too.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, wine collectors began jockeying to get hold of other Jefferson bottles as they began to emerge on the market. Bill Koch, whose brothers Charles and David of Koch Industries are often referred to as the Koch brothers, is an avid collector of art, Western Americana and wine. He purchased four of the Jefferson bottles in the late 1980s for a half-million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people came to visit and have wine in his capacious wine cellar at his home in Palm Beach,\" says Keefe, \"Bill Koch would proudly show off his Jefferson bottles.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, when the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston was preparing for an exhibit of Koch's collection, it contacted the \u003ca href=\"http://www.monticello.org/site/about/thomas-jefferson-foundation\">Thomas Jefferson Foundation\u003c/a> at Monticello to verify the provenance of the wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All of us at Monticello at that time were very skeptical\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>about any connection between Jefferson and these wine bottles,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.monticello.org/site/plantation-and-slavery/cinder-stanton-author-those-who-labor-my-happiness-slavery-thomas-jeffer\">Lucia (Cinder) Stanton\u003c/a>, a senior historian who has worked at Monticello for over 30 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jefferson was the \"leading wine connoisseur of the Republic, the presiding expert in French wine in this country,\" Stanton says. He ordered wine for George Washington, and he wrote out descriptions of the first growths and best wines in France for a number of American merchants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was also a meticulous record keeper who recorded every aspect of his life in detail. When he returned from France he had the wines he'd purchased for himself and President Washington carefully shipped to the U.S. According to his detailed books, they all arrived intact, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In his vast records of over 60,000 documents,\" says Stanton, \"there was nothing that suggested Jefferson had ever ordered any of these wines. In the so-called Jefferson bottles, there were about a dozen bottles including a 1784 and a 1787 Chateaux d'Yquem, a 1787 Lafite, a Margaux. Most of them were 1787, a vintage Jefferson never ordered in his life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Saddle Up'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bill Koch realized that he had potentially been crossed, he contacted Jim Elroy, a former FBI agent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Elroy is a kind of a genial, bloodhound of a guy,\" says Keefe, the reporter. The ringtone on his cellphone is the whistled theme to the Clint Eastwood cowboy film, \u003cem>The Good, The Bad and the Ugly\u003c/em>. \"So Koch says to Elroy: 'Saddle up.' And Elroy did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elroy put together a team of wine experts, including a former Scotland Yard inspector in England and a former MI5 agent in Germany, and launched an international investigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I identified the perpetrator as a man named Hardy Rodenstock,\" says Elroy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82791\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/lafite-kitchensisters.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/lafite-kitchensisters.jpg\" alt=\"Bottles of vintage wine dating back to the end of the 18th century are carefully labeled and stored in the cellars of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Bordeaux, France. Photo: Adam Woolfitt/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82791\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bottles of vintage wine dating back to the end of the 18th century are carefully labeled and stored in the cellars of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Bordeaux, France. Photo: Adam Woolfitt/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hardy Rodenstock was a former music publisher who managed German pop acts. He had been a fixture on the European wine scene since the 1980s. He was well-known for hosting lavish, flamboyant wine tastings inviting celebrities, dignitaries and wine critics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hardy I met quite a few times,\" says wine expert Jancis Robinson. \"Hardy supposedly found the Jefferson bottles in a bricked-up cellar in Paris, but he couldn't give anymore details. He was never specific about exactly how many bottles there were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cesium 137 Test \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jim Elroy had a hunch that the wine in the Jefferson bottles did not date back to the 18th century, but he needed a way to prove it, preferably without opening the bottle and destroying its contents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3282px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/17532707_h5983090-07318bc3d05e76ed1b922adbfb8193327b82ff77.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/17532707_h5983090-07318bc3d05e76ed1b922adbfb8193327b82ff77.jpg\" alt=\"Herve Guegan of the Nuclear Research Centre of Bordeaux runs a test on a 1944 vintage bottle of Medoc wine. Photo: Regis Duvignau/Reuters /Landov\" width=\"3282\" height=\"2463\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Herve Guegan of the Nuclear Research Centre of Bordeaux runs a test on a 1944 vintage bottle of Medoc wine. Photo: Regis Duvignau/Reuters /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I started looking in \u003cem>Scientific American\u003c/em> magazine,\" said Elroy, \"and I found an article that Philippe Hubert, a French physicist, had written about using low-level gamma ray detection for cesium 137 to date wine. Cesium 137 did not exist on this planet until we exploded the first atomic bomb.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As physicist Philippe Hubert explains: \"The cesium radioactivity we find in the wines reflects exactly the history of the Atomic Age. It is radioactive isotope, which is not natural. It's a fission product. First you had the development of the nuclear bomb: Hiroshima, Nagasaki. Then in the '50s and '60s, the Cold War between the U.S. and Soviets, and the nuclear atmospheric tests. Then in 1986 — the Chernobyl accident, which released a lot of cesium activity into the atmosphere. And then Fukushima Daiichi in Japan — we are following that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This radioactivity is everywhere on Earth — in our food, clothing, the cells of our body. \"It is in the atmosphere,\" says Hubert. \"And then with rain this radioactivity falls on the grapes. When you make the wine, this comes into the wine and stays into the wine.\"\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jim Elroy was confident that this was going to be the smoking gun that would prove Rodenstock guilty of fabricating the Jefferson bottles. He personally flew to the French-Italian border where Hubert was going to do the test, carrying the Jefferson bottles in bulletproof cases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at the level of gamma rays emitted from a bottle of wine,\" Elroy explains, Hubert could determine when the wine was bottle. Obviously, if it was bottled before about 1945, there shouldn't be any Cesium 137 in the wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment took place a mile underground to shield the test from the gamma rays in the atmosphere. \"In order to shield the detector even further,\" says Elroy, \"we had to use lead that was smelted prior to 1945. In this case, it was Roman lead smelted shortly after the birth of Christ.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hubert subjected the Jefferson bottles to the test. \"We don't need to open the bottles,\" says Hubert. \"The gamma rays can escape the wine and cross the thickness of the glass without any problem.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately,\" says Hubert, \"we could not detect any cesium inside the wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it was certain that the wine had been bottled before the Atomic Age. But there was no way this test could prove whether or not this wine was as old as Jefferson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipes And Dentistry Provide More Clues\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Counterfeiting wine is nothing new. People have been doing it for centuries. \"Louis XIV had a royal decree that all of the wine barrels coming from the Côtes du Rhône area had to be stamped with a CDR to prove that they were Côtes du Rhône,\" says wine detective Maureen Downey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In modern times, fraudster Rudy Kurniawan, who is now in jail for creating and selling counterfeit wine, built an entire laboratory in his condo in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kurniawan's kitchen was literally a factory for making counterfeit wine,\" says Downey, who went through the evidence with the FBI. \"He had recipes written on bottles in his kitchen. For example, his recipe for 1945 Mouton Rothschild said: one-half 1988 Pichon Melant; one-quarter oxidized Bordeaux; and one-quarter Napa Cab.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're not talking about plonk that is being put into these bottles,\" says Downey. \"These are careful recipes. I don't know if Kurniawan was a great chef or a chemist.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about those Jefferson bottles? Bill Koch's investigators tracked down the people in Germany who had engraved the Jefferson bottles with Th.J. They used a modern dentist tool that could not possibly have existed in the time of Thomas Jefferson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One expert likens it to Abraham Lincoln holding an iPhone,\" says Downey. \"When you've got Abraham Lincoln in a photograph holding an iPhone, we've got a problem.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82781/how-atomic-particles-helped-solve-a-wine-fraud-mystery","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82781"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_9326","bayareabites_9006","bayareabites_14748","bayareabites_13428"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82782","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82580":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82580","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82580","score":null,"sort":[1401212252000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","title":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","publishDate":1401212252,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1155px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\" alt=\"A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1155\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/27/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Nikita Khrushchev emerged as the leader of the Soviet Union after Stalin's death in 1953, one of the first things he addressed was the housing shortage and the need for more food. At the time, thousands of people were living in cramped communal apartments, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">sharing one kitchen\u003c/a> and one bathroom with sometimes up to 20 other families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People wanted to live in their own apartment,\" says Sergei Khrushchev, the son of Nikita Khrushchev. \"But in Stalin's time you cannot find this.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>When my father came to power he proclaimed that there will be mass construction of apartment buildings and in each apartment will live only one family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were called \u003cem>khrushchevkas\u003c/em> — five story buildings made of prefabricated concrete panels. \"They were horribly built; you could hear your neighbor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.crunchbase.com/person/edward-shenderovich\">Edward Shendrovich\u003c/a>, an entrepreneur and Russian poet. The apartments had small toilets, very low ceilings and very small kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \"no matter how tiny it was, it was yours,\" says journalist Masha Karp, who was born in Moscow and worked as an editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"This kitchen was the place where people could finally get together and talk at home without fearing the neighbors in the communal flat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These more private kitchens were emblematic of the completely new era of Soviet life under Khrushchev. \"It was called a thaw and for a reason,\" says Karp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Like in the winter when you have a lot of snow but spots are already green and the new grass was coming,\" says Russian writer Vladimir Voinovich. \"In Khrushchev times it was a very good time for inspiration. A little more liberal than before.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82582\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen Table Talk\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The individual kitchens in these tiny apartments, which were approximately 300 to 500 square feet, became hot spots of culture. Music was played, poetry was recited, underground tapes were exchanged, forbidden art and literature circulated, politics was debated and deep friendships were forged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the reasons why kitchen culture developed in Russia is because there were no places to meet,\" says Shendrovich. \"You couldn't have political discussions in public, at your workplace. You couldn't go to cafes – they were state-owned. The kitchen became the place where Russian culture kept living, untouched by the regime.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a country with little or no place to gather for the free expression of ideas and no place to talk politics without fear of repression, these new kitchens made it possible for friends to gather privately in one place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These \"dissident kitchens\" took the place of uncensored lecture halls, unofficial art exhibitions, clubs, bars and dating services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kitchen was for intimate circle of your close friends,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AAlexander%20Genis\">Alexander Genis\u003c/a>, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"When you came to the kitchen, you put on the table some vodka, and something from your balcony, not refrigerator, but balcony, like pickled mushrooms. Something pickled. Sour is the taste of Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furious discussions took place over pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, sardines, sprats and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kitchens became debating societies,\" remembers \u003ca href=\"https://dlcl.stanford.edu/people/gregory-grisha-freidin?q=people/gregory-grisha-freidin\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin\u003c/a>, professor of Slavic languages and literature at Stanford University. \"Even to this day political wind-baggery is referred to as 'kitchen table talk.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the kitchen, the KGB was an ever-present threat. People were wary of bugs and hidden microphones. Phones were unplugged or covered with pillows. Water was turned on so no one could hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of us had been followed,\" says Freidin. \"Sometimes there would be KGB agents stationed outside the apartments and in the stair wells. During those times we expected to be arrested any night.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Samizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the night wore on, kitchen conversations moved from politics to literature. Much literature was forbidden and could not be published or read openly in Soviet society. Kitchens became the place where people read and exchanged \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em>, or self-published books and documents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1239px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\" alt=\"A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\" width=\"1239\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People would type hundreds of pages on a typewriter, using carbon paper to create four or five copies, which were passed from one person to the next — political writings, fiction, poetry, philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> is, I think, the precursor of internet,\" says Genis. \"You put everything on it, like Facebook. And it wasn't easy to get typewriters because all typewriters must be registered by the KGB. That's how people got caught and sentenced to jail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> was the most important part of our literature life,\" says Genis. \"And literature was the most important part of our life period. Literature for us was like movies for Americans or music for young people.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Masha Karp's friend got hold of a type written copy of Boris Pasternak's \u003cem>Dr. Zhivago.\u003c/em> \"She told me, 'I'm reading it at night, I can't let it out of my hands. But you can come to my kitchen and read it here.' So I read it in four afternoons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Genis' family read \u003cem>Gulag Archipelago\u003c/em>, by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, in the kitchen. \"It's a huge book, three volumes, and all our family sat at the kitchen and we were afraid of our neighbor but she was sleeping. And my father, my mother, my brother, me and my grandma who was very old and had very little education — all sit at the table and read page, give page, the whole night. Maybe it was the best night of my life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Magnitizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened with \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em> books, happened with music, too. \u003cem>Magnitizdat\u003c/em>, are recordings made on reel to reel tape recorders. Tape recorders were expensive but permitted in the Soviet Union for home recordings of bards, poets, folksingers and songwriters, made and passed from friend to friend. People had hundreds of tapes they shared through the kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My songs were my type of reactions to the events and news,\" says songwriter Yuli Kim, one of Russia's famous bards, \u003cdel>\u003c/del>who \u003cdel>\u003c/del>was barred from giving public concerts. \"I would write a song about whatever was discussed. I would sing it during the discussion. If there would be someone with a tape recorder they would tape it and take it to another party. Songs were spread quickly like interesting stories.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most famous bard was Vladimir Vysotsky, who was like Bob Dylan of Russia,\" says Genis. \"That's what you can listen to in kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1869px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\" alt=\"During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\" width=\"1869\" height=\"2356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bone Music\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the availability of the tape recorder and during the 1950s, when vinyl was scarce, ingenious Russians began recording banned bootlegged jazz, boogie woogie, rock and roll on exposed xray film salvaged from hospital waste bins and archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it was the western music they wanted to copy,\" says Sergei Khruschev. \"Before the tape recorders they used the xray film of bones and recorded music on the bones, bone music.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would cut the x-ray into a crude circle with manicure scissors and use a cigarette to burn a hole,\" says author Anya von Bremzen. \"You'd have Elvis on the lungs, Duke Ellington on Aunt Masha's brain scan — forbidden western music captured on the interiors of Soviet citizens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio: A Window to the Freedom\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most kitchens had a radio that reached beyond the borders and censorship of the Soviet Union. People would crowd around the kitchen listening to broadcasts from the BBC, Voice of America, and Radio Liberte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was part of our life in the kitchen,\" says Vladimir Voinovich, author of \u003cem>The Life and\u003c/em> \u003cem>Extraordinary Adventures of Private Ivan Chonkin\u003c/em>. \"It was a window to the freedom.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voinovich's books were circulated in samizdat and smuggled out of the country. One of his pieces was broadcast by a foreign radio station. \"I heard some BBC voice reading my chapters. After that I was immediately summoned to KGB.\" Voinovich was expelled from the Writers Union and later forced to emigrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moscow\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Kitchens\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dissident composer Yuliy Kim wrote a cycle of songs called \"Moscow Kitchens\" telling the story of a group of people in the 1950s and the 60s called \"dissidents.\" It tells how they began to get together, how it led to protests, how they were detained and forced to leave the country. He describes the kitchen:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A tea house, a pie house, a pancake house, a study, a gambling dive, a living room, a parlor, a ballroom. A salon for a passing by drunkard. A home for a visiting bard to crash for a night. This is a Moscow kitchen, ten square meters housing 100 guests.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And, he adds: \"This is how this subversive thought grew and expanded in the Soviet Union, beginning with free discussions at the kitchens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"After Stalin's death, people in the Soviet Union could begin to debate politics again without fear of repression. This \"thawing\" took place in private kitchens, where music and art flourished, too.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1401811707,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":1673},"headData":{"title":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture | KQED","description":"After Stalin's death, people in the Soviet Union could begin to debate politics again without fear of repression. This "thawing" took place in private kitchens, where music and art flourished, too.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","datePublished":"2014-05-27T17:37:32.000Z","dateModified":"2014-06-03T16:08:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82580 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82580","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/27/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture/","disqusTitle":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"314961287","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=314961287&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture?ft=3&f=314961287","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 12:17:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 03:22:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 12:17:01 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=314961287","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1316269194-88def8.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=314961287","path":"/bayareabites/82580/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1155px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\" alt=\"A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1155\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/27/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Nikita Khrushchev emerged as the leader of the Soviet Union after Stalin's death in 1953, one of the first things he addressed was the housing shortage and the need for more food. At the time, thousands of people were living in cramped communal apartments, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">sharing one kitchen\u003c/a> and one bathroom with sometimes up to 20 other families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People wanted to live in their own apartment,\" says Sergei Khrushchev, the son of Nikita Khrushchev. \"But in Stalin's time you cannot find this.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>When my father came to power he proclaimed that there will be mass construction of apartment buildings and in each apartment will live only one family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were called \u003cem>khrushchevkas\u003c/em> — five story buildings made of prefabricated concrete panels. \"They were horribly built; you could hear your neighbor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.crunchbase.com/person/edward-shenderovich\">Edward Shendrovich\u003c/a>, an entrepreneur and Russian poet. The apartments had small toilets, very low ceilings and very small kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \"no matter how tiny it was, it was yours,\" says journalist Masha Karp, who was born in Moscow and worked as an editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"This kitchen was the place where people could finally get together and talk at home without fearing the neighbors in the communal flat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These more private kitchens were emblematic of the completely new era of Soviet life under Khrushchev. \"It was called a thaw and for a reason,\" says Karp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Like in the winter when you have a lot of snow but spots are already green and the new grass was coming,\" says Russian writer Vladimir Voinovich. \"In Khrushchev times it was a very good time for inspiration. A little more liberal than before.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82582\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen Table Talk\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The individual kitchens in these tiny apartments, which were approximately 300 to 500 square feet, became hot spots of culture. Music was played, poetry was recited, underground tapes were exchanged, forbidden art and literature circulated, politics was debated and deep friendships were forged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the reasons why kitchen culture developed in Russia is because there were no places to meet,\" says Shendrovich. \"You couldn't have political discussions in public, at your workplace. You couldn't go to cafes – they were state-owned. The kitchen became the place where Russian culture kept living, untouched by the regime.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a country with little or no place to gather for the free expression of ideas and no place to talk politics without fear of repression, these new kitchens made it possible for friends to gather privately in one place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These \"dissident kitchens\" took the place of uncensored lecture halls, unofficial art exhibitions, clubs, bars and dating services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kitchen was for intimate circle of your close friends,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AAlexander%20Genis\">Alexander Genis\u003c/a>, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"When you came to the kitchen, you put on the table some vodka, and something from your balcony, not refrigerator, but balcony, like pickled mushrooms. Something pickled. Sour is the taste of Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furious discussions took place over pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, sardines, sprats and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kitchens became debating societies,\" remembers \u003ca href=\"https://dlcl.stanford.edu/people/gregory-grisha-freidin?q=people/gregory-grisha-freidin\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin\u003c/a>, professor of Slavic languages and literature at Stanford University. \"Even to this day political wind-baggery is referred to as 'kitchen table talk.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the kitchen, the KGB was an ever-present threat. People were wary of bugs and hidden microphones. Phones were unplugged or covered with pillows. Water was turned on so no one could hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of us had been followed,\" says Freidin. \"Sometimes there would be KGB agents stationed outside the apartments and in the stair wells. During those times we expected to be arrested any night.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Samizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the night wore on, kitchen conversations moved from politics to literature. Much literature was forbidden and could not be published or read openly in Soviet society. Kitchens became the place where people read and exchanged \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em>, or self-published books and documents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1239px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\" alt=\"A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\" width=\"1239\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People would type hundreds of pages on a typewriter, using carbon paper to create four or five copies, which were passed from one person to the next — political writings, fiction, poetry, philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> is, I think, the precursor of internet,\" says Genis. \"You put everything on it, like Facebook. And it wasn't easy to get typewriters because all typewriters must be registered by the KGB. That's how people got caught and sentenced to jail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> was the most important part of our literature life,\" says Genis. \"And literature was the most important part of our life period. Literature for us was like movies for Americans or music for young people.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Masha Karp's friend got hold of a type written copy of Boris Pasternak's \u003cem>Dr. Zhivago.\u003c/em> \"She told me, 'I'm reading it at night, I can't let it out of my hands. But you can come to my kitchen and read it here.' So I read it in four afternoons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Genis' family read \u003cem>Gulag Archipelago\u003c/em>, by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, in the kitchen. \"It's a huge book, three volumes, and all our family sat at the kitchen and we were afraid of our neighbor but she was sleeping. And my father, my mother, my brother, me and my grandma who was very old and had very little education — all sit at the table and read page, give page, the whole night. Maybe it was the best night of my life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Magnitizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened with \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em> books, happened with music, too. \u003cem>Magnitizdat\u003c/em>, are recordings made on reel to reel tape recorders. Tape recorders were expensive but permitted in the Soviet Union for home recordings of bards, poets, folksingers and songwriters, made and passed from friend to friend. People had hundreds of tapes they shared through the kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My songs were my type of reactions to the events and news,\" says songwriter Yuli Kim, one of Russia's famous bards, \u003cdel>\u003c/del>who \u003cdel>\u003c/del>was barred from giving public concerts. \"I would write a song about whatever was discussed. I would sing it during the discussion. If there would be someone with a tape recorder they would tape it and take it to another party. Songs were spread quickly like interesting stories.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most famous bard was Vladimir Vysotsky, who was like Bob Dylan of Russia,\" says Genis. \"That's what you can listen to in kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1869px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\" alt=\"During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\" width=\"1869\" height=\"2356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bone Music\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the availability of the tape recorder and during the 1950s, when vinyl was scarce, ingenious Russians began recording banned bootlegged jazz, boogie woogie, rock and roll on exposed xray film salvaged from hospital waste bins and archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it was the western music they wanted to copy,\" says Sergei Khruschev. \"Before the tape recorders they used the xray film of bones and recorded music on the bones, bone music.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would cut the x-ray into a crude circle with manicure scissors and use a cigarette to burn a hole,\" says author Anya von Bremzen. \"You'd have Elvis on the lungs, Duke Ellington on Aunt Masha's brain scan — forbidden western music captured on the interiors of Soviet citizens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio: A Window to the Freedom\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most kitchens had a radio that reached beyond the borders and censorship of the Soviet Union. People would crowd around the kitchen listening to broadcasts from the BBC, Voice of America, and Radio Liberte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was part of our life in the kitchen,\" says Vladimir Voinovich, author of \u003cem>The Life and\u003c/em> \u003cem>Extraordinary Adventures of Private Ivan Chonkin\u003c/em>. \"It was a window to the freedom.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voinovich's books were circulated in samizdat and smuggled out of the country. One of his pieces was broadcast by a foreign radio station. \"I heard some BBC voice reading my chapters. After that I was immediately summoned to KGB.\" Voinovich was expelled from the Writers Union and later forced to emigrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moscow\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Kitchens\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dissident composer Yuliy Kim wrote a cycle of songs called \"Moscow Kitchens\" telling the story of a group of people in the 1950s and the 60s called \"dissidents.\" It tells how they began to get together, how it led to protests, how they were detained and forced to leave the country. He describes the kitchen:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A tea house, a pie house, a pancake house, a study, a gambling dive, a living room, a parlor, a ballroom. A salon for a passing by drunkard. A home for a visiting bard to crash for a night. This is a Moscow kitchen, ten square meters housing 100 guests.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And, he adds: \"This is how this subversive thought grew and expanded in the Soviet Union, beginning with free discussions at the kitchens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82580/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82580"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_13334","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_13408","bayareabites_13409","bayareabites_13429","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82581","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82339":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82339","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82339","score":null,"sort":[1400611114000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","title":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","publishDate":1400611114,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\" alt=\"Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1777\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the decades following the 1917 Russian Revolution, most people in Moscow lived in communal apartments; seven or more families crammed together where there had been one, sharing one kitchen and one bathroom. They were crowded; stove space and food were limited. Clotheslines were strewn across the kitchen, the laundry of one family dripping into the omelet of another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Soviet Union industrialized from the 1920s to the 1950s, and millions poured into Moscow from the countryside, one of the goals of the new government was to provide housing for the workers. It started putting people into apartments that had been occupied by the rich or by aristocrats who had been driven out by the new regime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The communal apartment was like a microcosm of Soviet society,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/authors/223091725/anya-von-bremzen\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"People from all walks of life, sometimes absolute class enemies, living next to each other. The expression was 'densed up.' The allotment was 9 square meters per person.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanford.edu/~gfreidin/\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin,\u003c/a> professor of Russian literature at Stanford University, grew up in a communal apartment of 10 families about five blocks from the Kremlin in the 1940s. \"On one side of my room was the man who washed corpses at the local morgue.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were two rooms where the mother and father served in the KGB. Then there was the woman whose husband was serving a sentence for stealing bread from the bread factory where he worked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1772px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\" alt=\"Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1772\" height=\"2362\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Freidin's kitchen, every family had a small kitchen table that housed a few pots and pans. There were two four-burner stoves. Everyone cooked their own food — cabbage soup, borscht with beets, potatoes, buckwheat groats, boiled chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchens became a source of tension and conflict. \"Five different kettles, five different pots that are all marked,\" says Edward Shenderovich, venture capital investor and Russian poet. \"When relations between the neighbors were especially fierce, you could see locks on the cabinets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Families cooked in quick, staggered shifts. \"They cooked in the kitchen but practically never ate there,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/masha-karp/23/308/509\">Masha Karp\u003c/a>, who was born in Moscow and worked as a Russian features editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"They would go with their pots along their corridor and eat in their room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crowded Kitchens By Design\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal kitchen was a war zone,\" says Alexander Genis, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"During the Stalin era [1928-1953] it was the most dangerous place to be — in the kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shenderovich agrees: \"Communal kitchens were not places where you would bring your friends. I think that was one of the ideas for creating a communal kitchen. There would be a watchful eye of society over every communal apartment. People would report on each other. You would never know who would be reporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Anya von Bremzen remembers there was camaraderie as well. \"There was always a grandmother to take care of the kids, and share a bit of \u003cem>cutletta\u003c/em> or \u003cem>salat Olivier\u003c/em>. And when they began to disband the communal apartments, the communal kitchen was an institution that many people actually began to miss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason Soviet authorities considered kitchens and private apartments dangerous to the regime was because they were places people could gather to talk about politics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important part of kitchen politics in early Soviet time was they would like to have houses without kitchens,\" says Genis. \"Because kitchen is something \u003cem>bourgeois\u003c/em>. Every family, as long as they have a kitchen, they have some part of their private life and private property.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.choices.edu/resources/scholars_Khrushchev.php\">Sergei Khrushchev\u003c/a>, retired Brown University professor and son of\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Nikita Khrushchev, the head of the Soviet Union from 1953 to 1964, explains: \"In Stalin's time, the theoretical idea of communism declared that all people have to be equal and the women have to be free from the slavery work in the kitchen. There mustn't be a kitchen in the apartment. You will go and eat in the cafeteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was part of the romantic approach of the early post-revolutionary years, says Masha Karp. \"People forget what an incredible upheaval the 1917 revolution was,\" she says. \"There was a huge movement to free the country from the czarism, bring happiness to poorer classes. People thought maybe it was a good idea to relieve a housewife from her daily chores so that she could develop as a personality. She would go and play the piano, write poetry, and she would not cook and wash up. The idea to have canteens and cafeterias was a continuation of this wonderful intention.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the cafeteria idea did not pan out. After the revolution, the civil war began and they did not build any cafeterias. Also, Anya von Bremzen tells us,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the food in the canteens was terrible, and women continued to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bolsheviks were not into food. [Vladimir] Lenin was not a foodie,\" says von Bremzen. \"They saw it as fuel; they had to feed the workers. The Bolsheviks kind of wanted to eradicate privacy. And private hearth, private stove becomes very politicized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following the \u003ca href=\"http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/russian_civil_war1.htm\">civil war,\u003c/a> the shortages\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>and\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the famine of the 1920s devastated whatever was left of the Russian kitchen. Stalin's industrialization program included the industrialization of food. Completely new, mass-produced food appeared — foods like canned and processed soup, fish, meat and mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole of the Soviet Union, all 120 different ethnic groups were suddenly being served exactly the same stuff,\" says Grisha Freidin. \"Choices for this or that food, the tastings, took place at the politburo level. The kinds of candies that were being produced was decided in a special meeting with Stalin and [Vyacheslav] Molotov.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cold War And The Kitchen Debate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the death of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin in 1953 and the ramping up of the Cold War, the Soviet Union's goal was to catch up and overtake the United States. In 1959, Nikita Khrushchev decided to have a cultural exchange of exhibitions with the United States, the first in history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Union's display in the New York Coliseum showcased progress: It featured sputnik satellites, and a model of an atomic ice-breaker and enormous statues of Soviet workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Americans' exhibit focused on lifestyle. They built a huge pavilion in Moscow's Sokolniki Park, a futuristic geodesic dome featuring\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>American jazz, basketball, rows and rows of high-heeled shoes, abstract art, long, sleek American cars. The exhibition introduced never-before seen or tasted American products to the Soviet people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Soviet visitors to the exhibit, Pepsi-Cola stole the show. \"Every visitor would pass the counter where Pepsi-Cola was given out in disposable paper cups,\" remembers Grisha Freidin, who was 13 years old at the time. A decade later, a historic deal was negotiated that brought Pepsi to Russia. \"Pepsi was the first American company, even before McDonald's, to get their foot in the door. Part of the deal between Pepsi-Cola and the Soviet Union was that Pepsi would be given the distribution rights for Stoli, Stolichnaya Vodka,\" says Freidin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the U.S. exhibit was a \"typical American home\" with a \"typical American kitchen.\" It had gleaming white refrigerators, washing machines and all the latest electric appliances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Vice President Richard Nixon arrived to open the pavilion, it was in this model Betty Crocker kitchen that he and Nikita Khrushchev made an unscheduled stop and came head to head in what is now known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.c-span.org/video/?110721-1/nixonkhrushchev-kitchen-debate\">The Kitchen Debate\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2698px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\" alt=\"Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\" width=\"2698\" height=\"2024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They go to this kitchen,\" remembers Sergei Khrushchev, \"and Nixon talks about American achievement and my father talks about Soviet achievement. They argue with each other about which system is better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there's only a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foia.cia.gov/sites/default/files/document_conversions/16/1959-07-24.pdf\">partial transcript\u003c/a> of the impromptu encounter, here's what the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> reporter who covered the event in 1959 \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/learning/general/onthisday/big/0724.html#article\">wrote\u003c/a>:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On political problems,\" the Soviet Premier said, \"we will never agree with you. For instance, [Soviet statesman Anastas] \u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/prominent-russians/politics-and-society/anastas-mikoyan/\">Mikoyan\u003c/a> likes very peppery soup. I do not. But this does not mean that we do not get along.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can learn from us, and we can learn from you,\" Mr. Nixon said. \"There must be a free exchange. Let the people choose the kind of house, the kind of soup, the kind of ideas that they want.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And so, the threat of atomic warfare, economic progress and diplomacy were all examined through the lens of the kitchen. \"Nixon and Khrushchev talked about food,\" says the Russian writer Alexander Genis, \"how people live, how people eat.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the Soviet Union's communal kitchens, many families jockeyed for one stove. Apartments were crowded, food was scarce and government informants were everywhere. Still, some found joy and connection.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400611114,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":36,"wordCount":1549},"headData":{"title":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics | KQED","description":"In the Soviet Union's communal kitchens, many families jockeyed for one stove. Apartments were crowded, food was scarce and government informants were everywhere. Still, some found joy and connection.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","datePublished":"2014-05-20T18:38:34.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-20T18:38:34.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82339 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82339","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/20/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics/","disqusTitle":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"314054405","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=314054405&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics?ft=3&f=314054405","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 11:43:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 03:30:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 09:33:00 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=314054405","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1314138915-e8ff1b.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=314054405","path":"/bayareabites/82339/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\" alt=\"Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1777\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the decades following the 1917 Russian Revolution, most people in Moscow lived in communal apartments; seven or more families crammed together where there had been one, sharing one kitchen and one bathroom. They were crowded; stove space and food were limited. Clotheslines were strewn across the kitchen, the laundry of one family dripping into the omelet of another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Soviet Union industrialized from the 1920s to the 1950s, and millions poured into Moscow from the countryside, one of the goals of the new government was to provide housing for the workers. It started putting people into apartments that had been occupied by the rich or by aristocrats who had been driven out by the new regime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The communal apartment was like a microcosm of Soviet society,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/authors/223091725/anya-von-bremzen\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"People from all walks of life, sometimes absolute class enemies, living next to each other. The expression was 'densed up.' The allotment was 9 square meters per person.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanford.edu/~gfreidin/\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin,\u003c/a> professor of Russian literature at Stanford University, grew up in a communal apartment of 10 families about five blocks from the Kremlin in the 1940s. \"On one side of my room was the man who washed corpses at the local morgue.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were two rooms where the mother and father served in the KGB. Then there was the woman whose husband was serving a sentence for stealing bread from the bread factory where he worked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1772px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\" alt=\"Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1772\" height=\"2362\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Freidin's kitchen, every family had a small kitchen table that housed a few pots and pans. There were two four-burner stoves. Everyone cooked their own food — cabbage soup, borscht with beets, potatoes, buckwheat groats, boiled chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchens became a source of tension and conflict. \"Five different kettles, five different pots that are all marked,\" says Edward Shenderovich, venture capital investor and Russian poet. \"When relations between the neighbors were especially fierce, you could see locks on the cabinets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Families cooked in quick, staggered shifts. \"They cooked in the kitchen but practically never ate there,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/masha-karp/23/308/509\">Masha Karp\u003c/a>, who was born in Moscow and worked as a Russian features editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"They would go with their pots along their corridor and eat in their room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crowded Kitchens By Design\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal kitchen was a war zone,\" says Alexander Genis, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"During the Stalin era [1928-1953] it was the most dangerous place to be — in the kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shenderovich agrees: \"Communal kitchens were not places where you would bring your friends. I think that was one of the ideas for creating a communal kitchen. There would be a watchful eye of society over every communal apartment. People would report on each other. You would never know who would be reporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Anya von Bremzen remembers there was camaraderie as well. \"There was always a grandmother to take care of the kids, and share a bit of \u003cem>cutletta\u003c/em> or \u003cem>salat Olivier\u003c/em>. And when they began to disband the communal apartments, the communal kitchen was an institution that many people actually began to miss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason Soviet authorities considered kitchens and private apartments dangerous to the regime was because they were places people could gather to talk about politics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important part of kitchen politics in early Soviet time was they would like to have houses without kitchens,\" says Genis. \"Because kitchen is something \u003cem>bourgeois\u003c/em>. Every family, as long as they have a kitchen, they have some part of their private life and private property.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.choices.edu/resources/scholars_Khrushchev.php\">Sergei Khrushchev\u003c/a>, retired Brown University professor and son of\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Nikita Khrushchev, the head of the Soviet Union from 1953 to 1964, explains: \"In Stalin's time, the theoretical idea of communism declared that all people have to be equal and the women have to be free from the slavery work in the kitchen. There mustn't be a kitchen in the apartment. You will go and eat in the cafeteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was part of the romantic approach of the early post-revolutionary years, says Masha Karp. \"People forget what an incredible upheaval the 1917 revolution was,\" she says. \"There was a huge movement to free the country from the czarism, bring happiness to poorer classes. People thought maybe it was a good idea to relieve a housewife from her daily chores so that she could develop as a personality. She would go and play the piano, write poetry, and she would not cook and wash up. The idea to have canteens and cafeterias was a continuation of this wonderful intention.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the cafeteria idea did not pan out. After the revolution, the civil war began and they did not build any cafeterias. Also, Anya von Bremzen tells us,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the food in the canteens was terrible, and women continued to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bolsheviks were not into food. [Vladimir] Lenin was not a foodie,\" says von Bremzen. \"They saw it as fuel; they had to feed the workers. The Bolsheviks kind of wanted to eradicate privacy. And private hearth, private stove becomes very politicized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following the \u003ca href=\"http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/russian_civil_war1.htm\">civil war,\u003c/a> the shortages\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>and\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the famine of the 1920s devastated whatever was left of the Russian kitchen. Stalin's industrialization program included the industrialization of food. Completely new, mass-produced food appeared — foods like canned and processed soup, fish, meat and mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole of the Soviet Union, all 120 different ethnic groups were suddenly being served exactly the same stuff,\" says Grisha Freidin. \"Choices for this or that food, the tastings, took place at the politburo level. The kinds of candies that were being produced was decided in a special meeting with Stalin and [Vyacheslav] Molotov.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cold War And The Kitchen Debate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the death of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin in 1953 and the ramping up of the Cold War, the Soviet Union's goal was to catch up and overtake the United States. In 1959, Nikita Khrushchev decided to have a cultural exchange of exhibitions with the United States, the first in history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Union's display in the New York Coliseum showcased progress: It featured sputnik satellites, and a model of an atomic ice-breaker and enormous statues of Soviet workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Americans' exhibit focused on lifestyle. They built a huge pavilion in Moscow's Sokolniki Park, a futuristic geodesic dome featuring\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>American jazz, basketball, rows and rows of high-heeled shoes, abstract art, long, sleek American cars. The exhibition introduced never-before seen or tasted American products to the Soviet people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Soviet visitors to the exhibit, Pepsi-Cola stole the show. \"Every visitor would pass the counter where Pepsi-Cola was given out in disposable paper cups,\" remembers Grisha Freidin, who was 13 years old at the time. A decade later, a historic deal was negotiated that brought Pepsi to Russia. \"Pepsi was the first American company, even before McDonald's, to get their foot in the door. Part of the deal between Pepsi-Cola and the Soviet Union was that Pepsi would be given the distribution rights for Stoli, Stolichnaya Vodka,\" says Freidin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the U.S. exhibit was a \"typical American home\" with a \"typical American kitchen.\" It had gleaming white refrigerators, washing machines and all the latest electric appliances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Vice President Richard Nixon arrived to open the pavilion, it was in this model Betty Crocker kitchen that he and Nikita Khrushchev made an unscheduled stop and came head to head in what is now known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.c-span.org/video/?110721-1/nixonkhrushchev-kitchen-debate\">The Kitchen Debate\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2698px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\" alt=\"Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\" width=\"2698\" height=\"2024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They go to this kitchen,\" remembers Sergei Khrushchev, \"and Nixon talks about American achievement and my father talks about Soviet achievement. They argue with each other about which system is better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there's only a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foia.cia.gov/sites/default/files/document_conversions/16/1959-07-24.pdf\">partial transcript\u003c/a> of the impromptu encounter, here's what the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> reporter who covered the event in 1959 \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/learning/general/onthisday/big/0724.html#article\">wrote\u003c/a>:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On political problems,\" the Soviet Premier said, \"we will never agree with you. For instance, [Soviet statesman Anastas] \u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/prominent-russians/politics-and-society/anastas-mikoyan/\">Mikoyan\u003c/a> likes very peppery soup. I do not. But this does not mean that we do not get along.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can learn from us, and we can learn from you,\" Mr. Nixon said. \"There must be a free exchange. Let the people choose the kind of house, the kind of soup, the kind of ideas that they want.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And so, the threat of atomic warfare, economic progress and diplomacy were all examined through the lens of the kitchen. \"Nixon and Khrushchev talked about food,\" says the Russian writer Alexander Genis, \"how people live, how people eat.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82339/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82339"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_13335","bayareabites_10234","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82340","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82052":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82052","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82052","score":null,"sort":[1400002059000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur","title":"Turnspit Dogs: The Rise And Fall Of The Vernepator Cur","publishDate":1400002059,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82053\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3930px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/463895653_master_slide-9cfdd4bccadc53f57b2cf5a8d5faae4ab4a7a0ff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/463895653_master_slide-9cfdd4bccadc53f57b2cf5a8d5faae4ab4a7a0ff.jpg\" alt=\"A turnspit dog at work in a wooden cooking wheel in an inn at Newcastle, Carmarthen, Wales, in 1869. Photo: Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images\" width=\"3930\" height=\"2617\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A turnspit dog at work in a wooden cooking wheel in an inn at Newcastle, Carmarthen, Wales, in 1869. Photo: Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140513_me_turnspit_dogs_the_rise_and_fall_of_the_vernepator_cur.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/13/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an old hunting lodge on the grounds of an ancient Norman castle in Abergavenny, Wales, a small, extinct dog peers out of a handmade wooden display case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Whiskey is the last surviving specimen of a turnspit dog, albeit stuffed,\" says Sally Davis, longtime custodian at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.abergavennymuseum.co.uk/\">Abergavenny Museum\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Canis vertigus\u003c/em>, or turnspit, was an essential part of every large kitchen in Britain in the 16th century. The small cooking canine was bred to run in a wheel that turned a roasting spit in cavernous kitchen fireplaces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82054\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dogs_whiskey_custom-b3394726e5db492151fdecd18f5dcc30a3c10f13.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dogs_whiskey_custom-b3394726e5db492151fdecd18f5dcc30a3c10f13-290x172.png\" alt='\"Whiskey,\" a taxidermied turnspit dog on display at the Abergavenny Museum in Wales. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters' width=\"290\" height=\"172\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82054\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Whiskey,\" a taxidermied turnspit dog on display at the Abergavenny Museum in Wales. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They were referred to as the kitchen dog, the cooking dog or the vernepator cur,\" says Caira Farrell, library and collections manager at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Kclovesdogs?rf=131976410334181\">Kennel Club\u003c/a> in London. \"The very first mention of them is in 1576 in the first book on dogs ever written.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The turnspit was bred especially to run on a wheel that turned meat so it would cook evenly. And that's how the turnspit got its other name: vernepator cur, Latin for \"the dog that turns the wheel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the 16th century, many people preferred to cook meat over an open fire. Open-fire roasting required constant attention from the cook and constant turning of the spit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Since medieval times, the British have delighted in eating roast beef, roast pork, roast turkey,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jan-Bondeson/e/B001H6V88Y\">Jan Bondeson\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Amazing Dogs, a Cabinet of Canine Curiosities, \u003c/em>the book that first led us to the turnspit dog\u003cem>. \u003c/em>\"They sneered at the idea of roasting meat in an oven. For a true Briton, the proper way was to spit roast it in front of an open fire, using a turnspit dog.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When any meat was to be roasted, one of these dogs was hoisted into a wooden wheel mounted on the wall near the fireplace. The wheel was attached to a chain, which ran down to the spit. As the dog ran, like a hamster in a cage, the spit turned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Turnspit dogs were viewed as kitchen utensils, as pieces of machinery rather than as dogs,\" says Bondeson. \"The roar of the fire. The clanking of the spit. The patter from the little dog's feet. The wheels were put up quite high on the wall, far from the fire in order for the dogs not to overheat and faint.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To train the dog to run faster, a glowing coal was thrown into the wheel, Bondeson adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 4507px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/113438731_master-1e069962cccd41fe2f5e33c25de9b9c52f398aaf.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/113438731_master-1e069962cccd41fe2f5e33c25de9b9c52f398aaf.jpg\" alt=\"In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere. By 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. Image: Universal History Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"4507\" height=\"3376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82055\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere. By 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. Image: Universal History Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Descriptions of the dogs paint a rather mutty picture: small, low-bodied, short, crooked front legs, with a heavy head and drooping ears. Some had gray and white fur; others were black or reddish brown. The dogs were strong and sturdy, capable of working for hours, and over time they evolved into a distinct breed. It was the zoologist Carl Linnaeus who named them C\u003cem>anis vertigus,\u003c/em> Latin for \"dizzy dog,\" because the dogs were turning all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the dogs, the fireplace spit was turned by the lowliest person in the kitchen staff, usually a small boy who stood behind a bale of wet hay for protection from the heat, turning the iron spit for hours and hours. The boys' hands used to blister. But in the 16th century, the boys gave way to dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shakespeare mentions them in his play \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Comedy of Errors\u003c/em>. He describes somebody as being a \"curtailed dog fit only to run in a wheel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Curtailed means they've got their tails cut off,\" Sally Davis, of the Abergavenny Museum, says. \"It was a way they used to differentiate between the dogs of the nobility and the dogs belonging to ordinary people. These little curtailed mongrels were the ones put into the wheels.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucyworsley.com/\">Lucy Worsley\u003c/a>, chief curator of the Historic Royal Palaces of London, at Hampton Court Palace, the home of Henry VIII, where a fire is roaring in the huge, old kitchen. \"Charles Darwin commented on the dogs as an example of genetic engineering,\" she tells us. \"Darwin said, 'Look at the spit dog. That's an example of how people can breed animals to suit particular needs.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82056\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_lucy-481e71690ddfb74f6c00ac627a948158b1080360.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_lucy-481e71690ddfb74f6c00ac627a948158b1080360-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Lucy Worsley, chief curator at the Historic Royal Palaces in London, attempted to roast on a spit powered by a dog in a wheel at the George Inn. Coco didn't fare too well in the wheel. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucy Worsley, chief curator at the Historic Royal Palaces in London, attempted to roast on a spit powered by a dog in a wheel at the George Inn. Coco didn't fare too well in the wheel. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On Sunday, the turnspit dog often had a day off. The dogs were allowed to go with the family to church. \"Not because of any concern for their spiritual education,\" says Bondeson, \"but because the dogs were useful as foot warmers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are actually a few records of turnspits being employed in America. Hannah Penn, the wife of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, wrote to England requesting that the dog wheel for her turnspits be sent. Elsewhere in Philadelphia, Benjamin Franklin's \u003cem>Pennsylvania Gazette\u003c/em> had advertisements for turnspit dogs and wheels for sale. And historians say a turnspit was active in the kitchen of the Statehouse Inn in Philadelphia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Statehouse Inn was where all the old political cronies hung out for their slice of beef and their ale,\" author and food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.williamwoysweaver.com/\">William Woys Weaver\u003c/a> tells us. \"In 1745, the owner of the Statehouse Inn advertised that he had turnspit dogs for sale. Evidently he was also breeding them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dogs were used in large hotel kitchens in America to turn spits. \"In the 1850s, the founder of the [Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals] was appalled by the way the turnspit dogs were treated in the hotels of Manhattan,\" says Weaver. \"This bad treatment of dogs eventually led to the founding of the SPCA.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere in Great Britain. But by 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. The availability of cheap spit-turning machines, called clock jacks, brought about the demise of the turnspit dog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It became a stigma of poverty to have a turnspit dog,\" says author Bondeson. \"They were ugly little dogs with a quite morose disposition, so nobody wanted to keep them as pets. The turnspit dogs became extinct.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 459px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_dogwheel-at-st.-briarvel-s-castle-b120831c1f737bdf8308da7362cd9441428a1d81.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_dogwheel-at-st.-briarvel-s-castle-b120831c1f737bdf8308da7362cd9441428a1d81.jpg\" alt=\"The dog wheel circa 1890, drawn in E.F. King's Ten Thousand Wonderful Things. Image: Courtesy of Jan Bondeson\" width=\"459\" height=\"344\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82057\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dog wheel circa 1890, drawn in E.F. King's Ten Thousand Wonderful Things. Image: Courtesy of Jan Bondeson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back at Abergavenny Museum, Whiskey, the last remaining turnspit, is a permanent fixture. Sally Davis thinks the blue painted background and spray of artificial flowers in the case are a sign that someone really cared for her. \"But the way she's posed,\" Sally says, \"the taxidermy ... I think possibly it was their first go at it, I don't know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What kind of dog today is the closest to a turnspit dog? Bondeson thinks possibly it's the Queen of England's favorite dog, the Welsh corgi. \"The downtrodden, lumpen, proletariat turnspit cooking dogs may well be related to the queen's pampered royal pooches.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their Hidden Kitchen Series travels the world, exploring little known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together, from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback and cool California.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The turnspit dog was once an essential part of every large kitchen in Britain. Bred to run in a wheel that turned a roasting spit, the small but strong dogs ensured that the meat cooked evenly.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400002059,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1318},"headData":{"title":"Turnspit Dogs: The Rise And Fall Of The Vernepator Cur | KQED","description":"The turnspit dog was once an essential part of every large kitchen in Britain. Bred to run in a wheel that turned a roasting spit, the small but strong dogs ensured that the meat cooked evenly.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Turnspit Dogs: The Rise And Fall Of The Vernepator Cur","datePublished":"2014-05-13T17:27:39.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-13T17:27:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82052 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82052","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/13/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur/","disqusTitle":"Turnspit Dogs: The Rise And Fall Of The Vernepator Cur","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"311127237","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=311127237&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur?ft=3&f=311127237","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 13 May 2014 12:44:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 13 May 2014 03:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 13 May 2014 12:44:01 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140513_me_turnspit_dogs_the_rise_and_fall_of_the_vernepator_cur.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=311127237","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1312046610-d78ebc.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=311127237","path":"/bayareabites/82052/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140513_me_turnspit_dogs_the_rise_and_fall_of_the_vernepator_cur.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82053\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3930px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/463895653_master_slide-9cfdd4bccadc53f57b2cf5a8d5faae4ab4a7a0ff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/463895653_master_slide-9cfdd4bccadc53f57b2cf5a8d5faae4ab4a7a0ff.jpg\" alt=\"A turnspit dog at work in a wooden cooking wheel in an inn at Newcastle, Carmarthen, Wales, in 1869. Photo: Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images\" width=\"3930\" height=\"2617\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A turnspit dog at work in a wooden cooking wheel in an inn at Newcastle, Carmarthen, Wales, in 1869. Photo: Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140513_me_turnspit_dogs_the_rise_and_fall_of_the_vernepator_cur.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/13/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an old hunting lodge on the grounds of an ancient Norman castle in Abergavenny, Wales, a small, extinct dog peers out of a handmade wooden display case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Whiskey is the last surviving specimen of a turnspit dog, albeit stuffed,\" says Sally Davis, longtime custodian at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.abergavennymuseum.co.uk/\">Abergavenny Museum\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Canis vertigus\u003c/em>, or turnspit, was an essential part of every large kitchen in Britain in the 16th century. The small cooking canine was bred to run in a wheel that turned a roasting spit in cavernous kitchen fireplaces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82054\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dogs_whiskey_custom-b3394726e5db492151fdecd18f5dcc30a3c10f13.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dogs_whiskey_custom-b3394726e5db492151fdecd18f5dcc30a3c10f13-290x172.png\" alt='\"Whiskey,\" a taxidermied turnspit dog on display at the Abergavenny Museum in Wales. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters' width=\"290\" height=\"172\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82054\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Whiskey,\" a taxidermied turnspit dog on display at the Abergavenny Museum in Wales. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They were referred to as the kitchen dog, the cooking dog or the vernepator cur,\" says Caira Farrell, library and collections manager at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Kclovesdogs?rf=131976410334181\">Kennel Club\u003c/a> in London. \"The very first mention of them is in 1576 in the first book on dogs ever written.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The turnspit was bred especially to run on a wheel that turned meat so it would cook evenly. And that's how the turnspit got its other name: vernepator cur, Latin for \"the dog that turns the wheel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the 16th century, many people preferred to cook meat over an open fire. Open-fire roasting required constant attention from the cook and constant turning of the spit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Since medieval times, the British have delighted in eating roast beef, roast pork, roast turkey,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jan-Bondeson/e/B001H6V88Y\">Jan Bondeson\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Amazing Dogs, a Cabinet of Canine Curiosities, \u003c/em>the book that first led us to the turnspit dog\u003cem>. \u003c/em>\"They sneered at the idea of roasting meat in an oven. For a true Briton, the proper way was to spit roast it in front of an open fire, using a turnspit dog.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When any meat was to be roasted, one of these dogs was hoisted into a wooden wheel mounted on the wall near the fireplace. The wheel was attached to a chain, which ran down to the spit. As the dog ran, like a hamster in a cage, the spit turned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Turnspit dogs were viewed as kitchen utensils, as pieces of machinery rather than as dogs,\" says Bondeson. \"The roar of the fire. The clanking of the spit. The patter from the little dog's feet. The wheels were put up quite high on the wall, far from the fire in order for the dogs not to overheat and faint.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To train the dog to run faster, a glowing coal was thrown into the wheel, Bondeson adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 4507px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/113438731_master-1e069962cccd41fe2f5e33c25de9b9c52f398aaf.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/113438731_master-1e069962cccd41fe2f5e33c25de9b9c52f398aaf.jpg\" alt=\"In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere. By 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. Image: Universal History Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"4507\" height=\"3376\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82055\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere. By 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. Image: Universal History Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Descriptions of the dogs paint a rather mutty picture: small, low-bodied, short, crooked front legs, with a heavy head and drooping ears. Some had gray and white fur; others were black or reddish brown. The dogs were strong and sturdy, capable of working for hours, and over time they evolved into a distinct breed. It was the zoologist Carl Linnaeus who named them C\u003cem>anis vertigus,\u003c/em> Latin for \"dizzy dog,\" because the dogs were turning all the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the dogs, the fireplace spit was turned by the lowliest person in the kitchen staff, usually a small boy who stood behind a bale of wet hay for protection from the heat, turning the iron spit for hours and hours. The boys' hands used to blister. But in the 16th century, the boys gave way to dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shakespeare mentions them in his play \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Comedy of Errors\u003c/em>. He describes somebody as being a \"curtailed dog fit only to run in a wheel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Curtailed means they've got their tails cut off,\" Sally Davis, of the Abergavenny Museum, says. \"It was a way they used to differentiate between the dogs of the nobility and the dogs belonging to ordinary people. These little curtailed mongrels were the ones put into the wheels.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucyworsley.com/\">Lucy Worsley\u003c/a>, chief curator of the Historic Royal Palaces of London, at Hampton Court Palace, the home of Henry VIII, where a fire is roaring in the huge, old kitchen. \"Charles Darwin commented on the dogs as an example of genetic engineering,\" she tells us. \"Darwin said, 'Look at the spit dog. That's an example of how people can breed animals to suit particular needs.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82056\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_lucy-481e71690ddfb74f6c00ac627a948158b1080360.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_lucy-481e71690ddfb74f6c00ac627a948158b1080360-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Lucy Worsley, chief curator at the Historic Royal Palaces in London, attempted to roast on a spit powered by a dog in a wheel at the George Inn. Coco didn't fare too well in the wheel. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucy Worsley, chief curator at the Historic Royal Palaces in London, attempted to roast on a spit powered by a dog in a wheel at the George Inn. Coco didn't fare too well in the wheel. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On Sunday, the turnspit dog often had a day off. The dogs were allowed to go with the family to church. \"Not because of any concern for their spiritual education,\" says Bondeson, \"but because the dogs were useful as foot warmers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are actually a few records of turnspits being employed in America. Hannah Penn, the wife of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, wrote to England requesting that the dog wheel for her turnspits be sent. Elsewhere in Philadelphia, Benjamin Franklin's \u003cem>Pennsylvania Gazette\u003c/em> had advertisements for turnspit dogs and wheels for sale. And historians say a turnspit was active in the kitchen of the Statehouse Inn in Philadelphia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Statehouse Inn was where all the old political cronies hung out for their slice of beef and their ale,\" author and food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.williamwoysweaver.com/\">William Woys Weaver\u003c/a> tells us. \"In 1745, the owner of the Statehouse Inn advertised that he had turnspit dogs for sale. Evidently he was also breeding them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dogs were used in large hotel kitchens in America to turn spits. \"In the 1850s, the founder of the [Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals] was appalled by the way the turnspit dogs were treated in the hotels of Manhattan,\" says Weaver. \"This bad treatment of dogs eventually led to the founding of the SPCA.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1750 there were turnspits everywhere in Great Britain. But by 1850 they had become scarce, and by 1900 they had disappeared. The availability of cheap spit-turning machines, called clock jacks, brought about the demise of the turnspit dog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It became a stigma of poverty to have a turnspit dog,\" says author Bondeson. \"They were ugly little dogs with a quite morose disposition, so nobody wanted to keep them as pets. The turnspit dogs became extinct.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 459px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_dogwheel-at-st.-briarvel-s-castle-b120831c1f737bdf8308da7362cd9441428a1d81.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/turnspit-dog_dogwheel-at-st.-briarvel-s-castle-b120831c1f737bdf8308da7362cd9441428a1d81.jpg\" alt=\"The dog wheel circa 1890, drawn in E.F. King's Ten Thousand Wonderful Things. Image: Courtesy of Jan Bondeson\" width=\"459\" height=\"344\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82057\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dog wheel circa 1890, drawn in E.F. King's Ten Thousand Wonderful Things. Image: Courtesy of Jan Bondeson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back at Abergavenny Museum, Whiskey, the last remaining turnspit, is a permanent fixture. Sally Davis thinks the blue painted background and spray of artificial flowers in the case are a sign that someone really cared for her. \"But the way she's posed,\" Sally says, \"the taxidermy ... I think possibly it was their first go at it, I don't know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What kind of dog today is the closest to a turnspit dog? Bondeson thinks possibly it's the Queen of England's favorite dog, the Welsh corgi. \"The downtrodden, lumpen, proletariat turnspit cooking dogs may well be related to the queen's pampered royal pooches.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their Hidden Kitchen Series travels the world, exploring little known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together, from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback and cool California.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82052/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82052"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_11128","bayareabites_9006","bayareabites_13370"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82053","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_23637":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_23637","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"23637","score":null,"sort":[1298327958000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"presidents-day-picks-food-facts-from-the-white-house-archives","title":"President's Day Picks: Food Facts From the White House Archives","publishDate":1298327958,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/2010/12/top-white-house-food-stories-2010.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2010year-white-house-food.jpg\" alt=\"Obama Foodorama - The Year in White House Food - 2010\" title=\"Obama Foodorama - The Year in White House Food - 2010\" width=\"500\" height=\"436\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTime will tell how history views the current President and First Lady's legacy on the food front. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it's probably fair to say that the family now calling the White House home have never had their eating habits, \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/2010/12/top-white-house-food-stories-2010.html\">food policy\u003c/a>, or culinary preferences more thoroughly documented and photographed as Barack and Michelle Obama. For that coverage we have the prolific Eddie Gehman Kohan, the voice behind the self-explanatory blog \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/\">Obama Foodorama\u003c/a>, to thank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, for \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/food/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/\">every pundit singing the praises\u003c/a> of Obama's anti-obesity Let's Move campaign, the White House garden, and Sam Kass in the kitchen, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wenonah-hauter/food-policy-we-cant-belie_b_821666.html\">a critic\u003c/a> lamenting the Administration's rulings on genetically engineered salmon and alfalfa, worrisome stance on importing processed poultry products from China, a country not know for its stellar food safety record, or its ties to big biz players like global retailer Wal-Mart over the cultivation of small, local farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And despite their healthy food stance, the Prez's favorite foods appear to be \u003ca href=\"http://my.barackobama.com/page/community/post/markwiznitzer/gGx7CL\">pizza\u003c/a>, beer, and ice cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But since President's Day is about honoring leaders from history, we'll focus on the palate preferences and food initiatives of presidents past and offer a week's worth of food facts for today's holiday:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Founding Father's Food Challenge:\u003c/strong> By the time he was president \u003cstrong>George Washington\u003c/strong> (1789-1797) had lost most of his teeth and could only manage to eat soft foods, despite wearing hand-crafted dentures made from animal and human teeth. Washington also had a slave chef, Hercules, who has been described as immaculate, impeccable and a bit of a dandy. One wonders if he made apple sauce for the chomping challenged Washington, known to be a big lover of that fall fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. The Roots of a Holiday Food Tradition: Abraham Lincoln\u003c/strong>'s (1861-1865) longest-running food legacy may well be the presidential pardon of a Thanksgiving turkey, a tradition that began when Lincoln spared a bird that had become the beloved pet of one of his sons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Obesity Problem Nothing New:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>William Taft\u003c/strong> (1909-1913), who was a little too fond of rich, fatty food, has been the U.S.'s largest president to date, weighing in at a whopping 300 to 332 pounds. He got so fat he got stuck in the White House bathtub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4. Meatless Mondays and Wheatless Wednesdays:\u003c/strong> In 1917, \u003cstrong>Woodrow Wilson\u003c/strong> (1913-1917) urged all Americans to observe Meatless Mondays and Wheatless Wednesdays to conserve food at home and help feed the troops fighting abroad during World War I. In recent years, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> campaign has been resurrected as a global health and environment initiative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfvictorygardens.org/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/victory-garden.jpg\" alt=\"Victory Garden posters\" title=\"Victory Garden posters\" width=\"466\" height=\"307\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5. Victory Gardens:\u003c/strong> A response to the Great Depression and World War II when food was scarce, \u003cstrong>Franklin Delano Roosevelt\u003c/strong> (1933-1945) and his wife Eleanor encouraged people to grow their own food and preserve excess harvest crops for the lean winter months. Since history is destined to repeat itself, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfvictorygardens.org/\">Victory Garden\u003c/a> concept has made a comeback in recent years. See a theme emerging here?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Veggie Bashing: \u003c/strong>At a news conference in 1990 \u003cstrong>George Herbert Walker Bush\u003c/strong> (1989-1997) was famously quoted saying: \"I'm President of the United States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli,\" clearly traumatized after being forced fed the nutrient dense green as a child. Needless to say, some folks in the produce lobby got a little steamed by this anti-veg outburst.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. The Pleasures of the Table:\u003c/strong> Former movie star \u003cstrong>Ronald Reagan\u003c/strong> (1981-1989), delivering his Farewell Address from the Oval Office, pronounced “all great change in America begins at the dinner table” in the daily conversations between parent and child. That's the kind of sentiment likely to garner strong bipartisan support during any administration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Resources for presidential political history buffs with a culinary interest who want to learn more:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/kitchen-sisters.jpg\" alt=\"Kitchen Sisters\" title=\"Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"500\" height=\"326\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23668\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">Hercules and Hemings: Presidents' Slave Chefs\u003c/a> (NPR) by the Bay Area's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a> focuses on some of the African-American cooks who have served in the White House, including the enslaved chefs of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Who knew that Sally Hemings, a Jefferson slave alleged to have had a relationship with the president, had a chef brother James Hemings? Also a Jefferson slave, James Hemings studied French culinary techniques and assumed the role of chef de cuisine in Jefferson's kitchen on the Champs-Elysees when he was minister to France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lincolnslunch.blogspot.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/history-chef.jpg\" alt=\"The History Chef\" title=\"The History Chef\" width=\"500\" height=\"475\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23664\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blog: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://lincolnslunch.blogspot.com/\">The History Chef!\u003c/a> by Suzy Evans, a lawyer in Newport Beach who holds a PhD from UC Berkeley and is working on a book about presidents' favorite foods. Her blog, which goes by the domain name lincolnslunch.blogspot.com, includes fascinating food factoids from the archives, like this one: Ronald Reagan asked for his favorite comfort food -- mac&cheese -- while recuperating from injuries sustained during an assassination attempt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Book:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/All-Presidents-Pastries-Twenty-Five-Memoir/dp/208030559X\">All The Presidents' Pastries: Twenty Five Years in the White House: A Memoir\u003c/a>\u003c/em> by Roland Mesnier with Christian Malard (Flammarion, $24.95) dishes up White House dirt along with over-the-top desserts from the French pastry chef who served five presidents from Jimmy Carter to Bush junior during his 25 year tenure cooking for the country's top commander-in-chiefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/obamarama.jpg\" alt=\"Obama Foodorama\" title=\"Obama Foodorama\" width=\"500\" height=\"426\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23666\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blog:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.com/\">Obama Foodorama\u003c/a>: There's no food news related to POTUS and FLOTUS (that's Barack and Michelle) to minute to report on this site, which includes policy analysis, events, speeches, videos, recipes, menus, edible ephemera, and lots of food shots too. Eddie Gehman Kohan serves up side dishes of food news from the USDA and The Hill in a blog cataloged by the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cookbook:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Capitol-Hill-Cooks-Congress-Presidents/dp/1589795504\">Capitol Hill Cooks: Recipes from the White House, Congress and All of the Past Presidents\u003c/a>\u003c/em> by Linda Bauer (Taylor, $26.95), a collection of dishes from appetizers to desserts from two centuries worth of policy wonks. Profits from the sales of the book benefit \u003ca href=\"http://www.homesforourtroops.org/\">Homes for Our Troops\u003c/a>, an organization that helps injured veterans build or adapt their homes for handicapped access.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"On President's Day a reflection on the food policies and palate preferences of past presidents, with a side on the current commander-in-chief's culinary choices.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1329772056,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1012},"headData":{"title":"President's Day Picks: Food Facts From the White House Archives | KQED","description":"On President's Day a reflection on the food policies and palate preferences of past presidents, with a side on the current commander-in-chief's culinary choices.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"President's Day Picks: Food Facts From the White House Archives","datePublished":"2011-02-21T22:39:18.000Z","dateModified":"2012-02-20T21:07:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"23637 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=23637","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/21/presidents-day-picks-food-facts-from-the-white-house-archives/","disqusTitle":"President's Day Picks: Food Facts From the White House Archives","path":"/bayareabites/23637/presidents-day-picks-food-facts-from-the-white-house-archives","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/2010/12/top-white-house-food-stories-2010.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/2010year-white-house-food.jpg\" alt=\"Obama Foodorama - The Year in White House Food - 2010\" title=\"Obama Foodorama - The Year in White House Food - 2010\" width=\"500\" height=\"436\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23675\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTime will tell how history views the current President and First Lady's legacy on the food front. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it's probably fair to say that the family now calling the White House home have never had their eating habits, \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/2010/12/top-white-house-food-stories-2010.html\">food policy\u003c/a>, or culinary preferences more thoroughly documented and photographed as Barack and Michelle Obama. For that coverage we have the prolific Eddie Gehman Kohan, the voice behind the self-explanatory blog \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/\">Obama Foodorama\u003c/a>, to thank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, for \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/food/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/\">every pundit singing the praises\u003c/a> of Obama's anti-obesity Let's Move campaign, the White House garden, and Sam Kass in the kitchen, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wenonah-hauter/food-policy-we-cant-belie_b_821666.html\">a critic\u003c/a> lamenting the Administration's rulings on genetically engineered salmon and alfalfa, worrisome stance on importing processed poultry products from China, a country not know for its stellar food safety record, or its ties to big biz players like global retailer Wal-Mart over the cultivation of small, local farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And despite their healthy food stance, the Prez's favorite foods appear to be \u003ca href=\"http://my.barackobama.com/page/community/post/markwiznitzer/gGx7CL\">pizza\u003c/a>, beer, and ice cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But since President's Day is about honoring leaders from history, we'll focus on the palate preferences and food initiatives of presidents past and offer a week's worth of food facts for today's holiday:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Founding Father's Food Challenge:\u003c/strong> By the time he was president \u003cstrong>George Washington\u003c/strong> (1789-1797) had lost most of his teeth and could only manage to eat soft foods, despite wearing hand-crafted dentures made from animal and human teeth. Washington also had a slave chef, Hercules, who has been described as immaculate, impeccable and a bit of a dandy. One wonders if he made apple sauce for the chomping challenged Washington, known to be a big lover of that fall fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. The Roots of a Holiday Food Tradition: Abraham Lincoln\u003c/strong>'s (1861-1865) longest-running food legacy may well be the presidential pardon of a Thanksgiving turkey, a tradition that began when Lincoln spared a bird that had become the beloved pet of one of his sons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Obesity Problem Nothing New:\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>William Taft\u003c/strong> (1909-1913), who was a little too fond of rich, fatty food, has been the U.S.'s largest president to date, weighing in at a whopping 300 to 332 pounds. He got so fat he got stuck in the White House bathtub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4. Meatless Mondays and Wheatless Wednesdays:\u003c/strong> In 1917, \u003cstrong>Woodrow Wilson\u003c/strong> (1913-1917) urged all Americans to observe Meatless Mondays and Wheatless Wednesdays to conserve food at home and help feed the troops fighting abroad during World War I. In recent years, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> campaign has been resurrected as a global health and environment initiative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfvictorygardens.org/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/victory-garden.jpg\" alt=\"Victory Garden posters\" title=\"Victory Garden posters\" width=\"466\" height=\"307\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5. Victory Gardens:\u003c/strong> A response to the Great Depression and World War II when food was scarce, \u003cstrong>Franklin Delano Roosevelt\u003c/strong> (1933-1945) and his wife Eleanor encouraged people to grow their own food and preserve excess harvest crops for the lean winter months. Since history is destined to repeat itself, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfvictorygardens.org/\">Victory Garden\u003c/a> concept has made a comeback in recent years. See a theme emerging here?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Veggie Bashing: \u003c/strong>At a news conference in 1990 \u003cstrong>George Herbert Walker Bush\u003c/strong> (1989-1997) was famously quoted saying: \"I'm President of the United States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli,\" clearly traumatized after being forced fed the nutrient dense green as a child. Needless to say, some folks in the produce lobby got a little steamed by this anti-veg outburst.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. The Pleasures of the Table:\u003c/strong> Former movie star \u003cstrong>Ronald Reagan\u003c/strong> (1981-1989), delivering his Farewell Address from the Oval Office, pronounced “all great change in America begins at the dinner table” in the daily conversations between parent and child. That's the kind of sentiment likely to garner strong bipartisan support during any administration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Resources for presidential political history buffs with a culinary interest who want to learn more:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/kitchen-sisters.jpg\" alt=\"Kitchen Sisters\" title=\"Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"500\" height=\"326\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23668\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">Hercules and Hemings: Presidents' Slave Chefs\u003c/a> (NPR) by the Bay Area's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=18950467\">Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a> focuses on some of the African-American cooks who have served in the White House, including the enslaved chefs of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Who knew that Sally Hemings, a Jefferson slave alleged to have had a relationship with the president, had a chef brother James Hemings? Also a Jefferson slave, James Hemings studied French culinary techniques and assumed the role of chef de cuisine in Jefferson's kitchen on the Champs-Elysees when he was minister to France.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lincolnslunch.blogspot.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/history-chef.jpg\" alt=\"The History Chef\" title=\"The History Chef\" width=\"500\" height=\"475\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23664\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blog: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://lincolnslunch.blogspot.com/\">The History Chef!\u003c/a> by Suzy Evans, a lawyer in Newport Beach who holds a PhD from UC Berkeley and is working on a book about presidents' favorite foods. Her blog, which goes by the domain name lincolnslunch.blogspot.com, includes fascinating food factoids from the archives, like this one: Ronald Reagan asked for his favorite comfort food -- mac&cheese -- while recuperating from injuries sustained during an assassination attempt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Book:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/All-Presidents-Pastries-Twenty-Five-Memoir/dp/208030559X\">All The Presidents' Pastries: Twenty Five Years in the White House: A Memoir\u003c/a>\u003c/em> by Roland Mesnier with Christian Malard (Flammarion, $24.95) dishes up White House dirt along with over-the-top desserts from the French pastry chef who served five presidents from Jimmy Carter to Bush junior during his 25 year tenure cooking for the country's top commander-in-chiefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/obamarama.jpg\" alt=\"Obama Foodorama\" title=\"Obama Foodorama\" width=\"500\" height=\"426\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23666\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blog:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://obamafoodorama.com/\">Obama Foodorama\u003c/a>: There's no food news related to POTUS and FLOTUS (that's Barack and Michelle) to minute to report on this site, which includes policy analysis, events, speeches, videos, recipes, menus, edible ephemera, and lots of food shots too. Eddie Gehman Kohan serves up side dishes of food news from the USDA and The Hill in a blog cataloged by the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cookbook:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Capitol-Hill-Cooks-Congress-Presidents/dp/1589795504\">Capitol Hill Cooks: Recipes from the White House, Congress and All of the Past Presidents\u003c/a>\u003c/em> by Linda Bauer (Taylor, $26.95), a collection of dishes from appetizers to desserts from two centuries worth of policy wonks. Profits from the sales of the book benefit \u003ca href=\"http://www.homesforourtroops.org/\">Homes for Our Troops\u003c/a>, an organization that helps injured veterans build or adapt their homes for handicapped access.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/23637/presidents-day-picks-food-facts-from-the-white-house-archives","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_895","bayareabites_9007","bayareabites_9004","bayareabites_9005","bayareabites_9008","bayareabites_9001","bayareabites_8718","bayareabites_8998","bayareabites_9000","bayareabites_9009","bayareabites_8745","bayareabites_9003","bayareabites_9006","bayareabites_8612","bayareabites_9002"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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