Bay Area Bites Guide to 5 Sustainable Restaurants in San Francisco, Berkeley, Oakland and Sausalito
Chef Gabriela Cámara's Cala Brings Coastal Mexican Food to San Francisco
Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson
Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience
One In Three Fish Sold At Restaurants And Grocery Stores Is Mislabeled
Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable?
Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar
Words on the Waves: Litquake in Sausalito
Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources
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As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"},"mariafinn":{"type":"authors","id":"5371","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5371","found":true},"name":"Maria Finn","firstName":"Maria","lastName":"Finn","slug":"mariafinn","email":"mariafinn@mac.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Maria Finn lives on a floating houseboat in Sausalito, where she grows a rooftop container garden, despite the salty winds. She’s the author of the book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780789320278\">“A Little Piece of Earth, How to Grow Your Own Food in Small Spaces\u003c/a>” (Rizzoli, 2010), and the memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9781565125179\">“Hold Me Tight and Tango Me Home”\u003c/a> (Algonquin Books, 2010) , which is in development for a television series with Fox Studios. Her novel-in-progress, “Sea Legs and Fish Nets,” loosely based on her experiences working on an all female fishing boat in Alaska, is a finalist for the Pen/Bellwether Prize, founded by Barbara Kingsolver for novels that address issues of social justice. She writes for Sunset Magazine, Afar Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, and many other publications. Visit her website at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariafinn.com/\">mariafinn.com\u003c/a> and follow her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/mariafinn\">@mariafinn\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Maria Finn | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7665bb99151400dc3a28510892795cd9?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/mariafinn"},"shelbypope":{"type":"authors","id":"5566","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5566","found":true},"name":"Shelby Pope","firstName":"Shelby","lastName":"Pope","slug":"shelbypope","email":"shelbylpope@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Shelby Pope is a freelance writer living and eating her way through the East Bay. She’s written about food, art and science for publications including the Smithsonian, Lucky Peach, and the Washington Post's pet blog. When she’s not taste testing sourdough bread to find the Bay Area’s best loaf, you can find her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/shelbylpope\">@shelbylpope\u003c/a> or at \u003ca href=\"https://shelbypope.com/\" target=\"_blank\">shelbypope.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/f0bc7c2dc7ea404f67cbf922a5393d8a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"shelbylpope","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Shelby Pope | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/f0bc7c2dc7ea404f67cbf922a5393d8a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/f0bc7c2dc7ea404f67cbf922a5393d8a?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/shelbypope"},"kimwesterman":{"type":"authors","id":"5575","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5575","found":true},"name":"Kim Westerman","firstName":"Kim","lastName":"Westerman","slug":"kimwesterman","email":"kim.westerman@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kim Westerman has been writing about food and wine for most of her adult life. Originally from North Carolina, she moved to Berkeley in 2006 to pursue the California dream, which, it turns out, is all it’s cracked up to be. She’s a farmers' market junkie, a lover of all things tomato, and Champagne-obsessed. She loves to cook with her kids, eight and three, and she makes frequent pilgrimages to International Boulevard in search of her next favorite Mexican dish. She spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about food and wine pairing, often starting with the wine and working backwards when planning menus. She is a Level I Sommelier and a Licensed Q-Grader. Her work has appeared in KQED's Bay Area Bites, Forbes.com, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Table, Fodor’s Travel Guides, and lots of other publications. You can follow Kim on Twitter and Instagram @throughtraveler.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Westerman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kimwesterman"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_120872":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_120872","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"120872","score":null,"sort":[1507060974000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-sustainable-restaurants-in-san-francisco-berkeley-oakland-and-sausalito","title":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 5 Sustainable Restaurants in San Francisco, Berkeley, Oakland and Sausalito","publishDate":1507060974,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The Bay Area’s commitment to ethical food is almost taken for granted these day, with seemingly every new restaurant touting ingredients and sourcing that would make Michael Pollan proud. But that doesn’t mean that it’s become any less important to focus on sustainable food. Most of us don’t have the power to make the kind of large-scale decisions that affect our food systems the way say, a giant food conglomerate or the government can. But we can choose to buy organic, or select a restaurant that emphasizes sustainability for our Friday night date. Here are just a few of the restaurants in the Bay Area that are trying to create a better world through the growing, selection and preparation of the food they serve. But we know this list is just a sampling of the many great environmentally-friendly restaurants in the area. Did we miss your favorite? Let us know in the comments below.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Fish\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121137\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993.png\" alt=\"The fish and chips at Fish featured local cod.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-160x103.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-800x516.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-768x495.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-1020x658.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-1180x761.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-960x619.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-240x155.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-375x242.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-520x335.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fish and chips at Fish featured local cod. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you have a craving for seafood and want to ensure you’re getting a sustainable option, head to Sausalito’s \u003cstrong>Fish.\u003c/strong> Just don’t forget your cash--or a pair of sunglasses. The cash-only restaurant features a selection of casual fish dishes like fish tacos, chowder and tuna melts similar to what you can find at any waterfront restaurant in the Bay Area with one significant difference: all the fish is sustainably sourced, much of it from local fishermen, with the higher prices that come with such conscientiousness. (The combination of casualness and high prices might not be for everyone: if you’re offended by the idea of a $36 crab roll paired with wine from a Mason jar, go elsewhere.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121136\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987.png\" alt=\"You can get the fish of the day--here, a rainbow trout--with pasta, salad or as part of a sandwich.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-160x108.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-800x540.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-768x518.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-1020x688.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-1180x796.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-960x648.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-240x162.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-375x253.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-520x351.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can get the fish of the day--here, a rainbow trout--with pasta, salad or as part of a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-121134 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945.png\" alt=\"Fish offers a several varieties types of sustainable fish. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-800x600.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-768x576.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-1020x765.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-1180x885.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-960x720.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-375x281.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-520x390.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish offers a several varieties types of sustainable fish. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For those willing to spend the money, it’s a charming experience. The restaurant overlooks Richardson Bay, so there’s a waterfront view as you enjoy winning renditions of classic dishes like fish and chips--shatteringly crispy, served with plump steak fries and an herbaceous tartar sauce. Their clam chowder is far better than the bowls of cream you get at Pier 39. It’s thinner but boasts a stronger clam flavor, with large pieces of bacon and even larger chunks of potatoes. They also feature several fish of the day, which you can get in a sandwich, with pasta or with a salad. On our visit it was squid, herring and trout. The rainbow trout, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2014/02/13/vegetarian-farmed-fish-may-be-key-to-sustainable-aquaculture/\">sustainably farmed from McFarland Springs\u003c/a>, was cooked perfectly, with a hint of char from their wood-fired grill. Atop a bed of greens and paired with a bright vinaigrette, it was an ideal lunch for a sunny Sausalito afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121138\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652.png\" alt=\"Clam chowder from Fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-800x1067.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-768x1024.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-1020x1360.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-1180x1573.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-960x1280.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-240x320.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-375x500.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-520x693.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam chowder from Fish. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">\u003cstrong>Fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n350 Harbor Dr [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ckHSKgeewGG2\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSausalito, CA 94965\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 331-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun, 11:30m-8:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Fish-Restaurant-177088469103/\">Fish Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FishinSausalito\">@FishinSausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fishrestaurantsausalito/\">@fishrestaurantsausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (Entrees $18-$24)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Vik’s Chaat & Market\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121118\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy pani puri is just one of the delicious Indian snack foods Vik's offers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy pani puri is just one of the delicious Indian snack foods Vik's offers. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every day, people flock to an unassuming part of West Berkeley for the Indian street food at \u003cstrong>Vik’s Chaat\u003c/strong>. For its fans, which range from groups of coworkers out for a birthday lunch to spandex-clad bikers debating the best post-workout meal (a peanut butter sandwich, one argued), the draw is the restaurant's mix of entrees and smaller dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121120\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121120\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636.jpg\" alt=\"If you get the lunch special at Vik's, you'll receive a tray heavy with a variety of delicious sides.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If you get the lunch special at Vik's, you'll receive a tray heavy with a variety of delicious sides. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1925px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121119\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626.jpg\" alt=\"The rapidly-deflating cholle bhature makes a perfect vehicle for scooping up chana masala.\" width=\"1925\" height=\"1444\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626.jpg 1925w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1925px) 100vw, 1925px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rapidly-deflating cholle bhature makes a perfect vehicle for scooping up chana masala. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You can get a lunch special, where you’ll be presented with heavy tray of well-seasoned lamb (or chicken or fish if that’s your preference) served with rice, chapati, dal, achar, raita and papad. Or you can get a variety of smaller dishes to share, like the crunchy pani puri--a deep fried puff filled with chickpeas, just waiting to be filled with the accompanying mint water or a dollop of tamarind chutney. And there’s the drama of the cholle bhature--labeled on the menu as “the big puffy thing”-- which comes out towering and slowly deflates so you’re able to rip a piece off and top it with chana masala. But what most people don’t know is the restaurant is also a model of sustainability. Sure, they have separate trash cans for composting, but the building itself boasts \u003ca href=\"http://vikschaat.com/green-features/\">several eco-friendly touches\u003c/a>: it relies on skylights for cooling, instead of air conditioning; the wooden benches and wainscoting are recycled from a San Francisco gym; and part of the building’s outside was made from sand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121121\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657.jpg\" alt=\"Popular Indian restaurant Vik's is housed in a building with several sustainable features, including skylights to moderate temperature instead of air conditioning.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Popular Indian restaurant Vik's is housed in a building with several sustainable features, including skylights to moderate temperature instead of air conditioning. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://vikschaat.com/\">\u003cstrong>Vik’s Chaat & Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2390 Fourth St [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/QZhbkHpF1G82\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94710\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 644-4432\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11am-6pm; Fri-Sun, 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ViksChaat/\">Vik’s Chaat\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844.jpg\" alt=\"Every ingredient at the Plant Cafe, including the condiments, are organic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-160x96.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-800x480.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-768x461.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-1020x613.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-1180x709.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-960x577.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-240x144.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-375x225.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-520x312.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Every ingredient at the Plant Cafe, including the condiments, are organic. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The inclusion of “organic” in the name is the first tip off that the Bay Area fast casual restaurant chain The \u003cstrong>Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/strong>, with six locations scattered around San Francisco and Mill Valley, is committed to sustainability. And indeed, they are, with 100% of the restaurant's ingredients coming from organic sources. Even the condiments--ketchup, mustard, hot sauce--are organic. Their menu includes lots of healthy options like grain bowls, meal-worthy salads and smoothies (on my visit, many besuited Financial District workers were happily slurping tumblers of green liquids) but there’s also less wholesome options. A fried chicken sandwich was appropriately crispy, topped with a pile of crunchy, mildly spicy slaw. The restaurant also changes seasonally. Their summer cobb had all the best parts of the original--egg, blue cheese, avocado--but with an added crunch from roasted chickpeas and green beans and a freshness from a zingy lemon flax vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121129\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862.png\" alt=\"A crispy fried chicken sandwich with the soup of the day from the Plant Cafe Organic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-160x108.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-800x540.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-768x518.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-1020x688.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-1180x796.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-960x648.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-240x162.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-375x253.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-520x351.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crispy fried chicken sandwich with the soup of the day from the Plant Cafe Organic. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at the Plant Cafe Organic changes seasonally to make room for dishes like this summer Cobb salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1422\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121188\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-800x593.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-768x569.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-1020x755.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-1180x874.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-960x711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-240x178.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-375x278.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-520x385.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at the Plant Cafe Organic changes seasonally to make room for dishes like this summer Cobb salad. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://theplantcafe.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nVarious locations in San Francisco and Mill Valley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/XKekUc\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theplantcafeorganic/\">The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theplantcafe\">@theplantcafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theplantcafeorganic/\">@theplantcafeorganic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Entrees $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752.jpg\" alt=\"The gumbo featured smoked chicken and shrimp.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The gumbo featured smoked chicken and shrimp. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong> has big plans for its future. There’s the forthcoming move from West Oakland \u003ca href=\"https://www.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/news/2017/06/07/uptown-oakland-restaurants-brown-sugar-bocanova.html\">to Uptown\u003c/a>, and new plans for a smaller spot \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/9/21/16346774/tanya-holland-brown-sugar-kitchen-ferry-building\">at the Ferry Building\u003c/a>. It’s easy to understand why they’re eager to expand. They’re so beloved that a wait for their weekend brunch--featuring their star dish, chicken and waffles--can stretch into multiple hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121139\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Kitchen reduces their waste through composting with a local farm, and using ingredients in as many dishes as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Kitchen reduces their waste through composting with a local farm, and using ingredients in as many dishes as possible. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121125\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749.jpg\" alt=\"A pork hash exemplified the restaurant's zero waste policies, featuring pork leftover from making other dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pork hash exemplified the restaurant's zero waste policies, featuring pork leftover from making other dishes. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to their exemplary food, they’re also focused on reducing the amount of waste they produce. Chef Tanya Holland has committed to a new zero waste initiative, meaning that they’re focused on composting --a nearby community garden gets their food scraps and eggshells-- as well as stretching ingredients as far as they can. That means leftover vegetables from their veggie scramble might find their way into their swamp-colored gumbo, a rich, aromatic mix of vegetables and chilies tangled around shrimp and smoked chicken. Similarly, their hash features pork smoked in house and uses up leftovers from their pulled pork sandwiches. It’s then crisped together with potatoes, peppers and onions and topped with poached eggs for a filling, spicy meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://brownsugarkitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2534 Mandela Pkwy [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/tcWQj5Rppik\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 839-7685\u003cbr>\nHours: Closed Monday; Tue-Sat 7am-3pm; Sun 8am-3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BrownSugarKitch\">@BrownSugarKitch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Perennial\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884.png\" alt=\"The Perennial has a small fish tank in the restaurant to demonstrate the aquaponic system they use to grow their lettuce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1718\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121130\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-160x143.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-800x716.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-768x687.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-1020x913.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-1180x1056.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-960x859.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-240x215.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-375x336.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-520x465.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial has a small fish tank in the restaurant to demonstrate the aquaponic system they use to grow their lettuce. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Perennial\u003c/strong> wants to “fight climate change with delicious food and drinks.” This admirable goal is achieved through a \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/projects/\">variety of creative methods\u003c/a> that go beyond the Bay Area mainstay of “local and organic produce.” They use an aquaponic greenhouse to raise their greens and fish. Their bread isn’t Acme or Tartine, but made in-house from Kernza, a perennial grain that’s better for the soil than wheat. Their meat comes from ranches that use carbon farming, a technique that produces less methane than traditional methods. They’ve received a lot of attention for their efforts--”Did you see the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/20/dining/san-francisco-chefs-climate-change.html?mcubz=0\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> article\u003c/a>?” a beaming server asked the table next to us--and on a recent weeknight, the place was filled with couples on dates and cheerful groups of coworkers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121131\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895.jpg\" alt=\"The Perennial's bread is made from Kernza, an alternative to wheat that's better for the soil.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial's bread is made from Kernza, an alternative to wheat that's better for the soil. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907.png\" alt=\"The restaurant's greens come from an aquaponic farm in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-800x598.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-768x574.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-1020x763.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-1180x883.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-960x718.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-375x280.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-520x389.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant's greens come from an aquaponic farm in West Oakland. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The menu is available as a three or four course meal, but is also available a la carte, our server said. When she found out that my friend and I wanted to order a few dishes and split an entree, she muttered something about needing to order two entrees and OpenTable points as she walked away. (I scoured my reservation email and the website, but didn’t see any such requirement.) Eventually she returned, dumping our dishes on the table. The Kernza bread was hearty and slightly nutty, similar to a levain sourdough. “If I could only eat this bread the rest of my life, I’d be ok with that,” my friend said, and I agreed. The aquaponic greens come from the restaurant's West Oakland greenhouse, and were crisp, delicately dressed in a vinaigrette atop a few dabs of a creamy, avocado based dressing. Our lamb (a note on the menu mentioned that a carbon ranching surcharge would be added to our bill “to reflect the true cost of beef and lamb”) was meltingly tender, surrounded by cauliflower prepared in a variety of methods. Some florets were pickled, others roasted, and the whole arrangement was accompanied by a slick of roasted cauliflower puree, assertively salted and almost cheesy tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121133\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924.png\" alt='The lamb and cauliflower entree included a surcharge to \"reflect the true cost of beef and lamb.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-800x600.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-768x576.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-1020x765.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-1180x885.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-960x720.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-375x281.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-520x390.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lamb and cauliflower entree included a surcharge to \"reflect the true cost of beef and lamb.\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Perennial\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n59 9th St [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/jipK63qpecB2\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 500-7788\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 5:30-9pm; Closed Sun\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ThePerennialSF/\">The Perennial\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theperennialsf\">@theperennialsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theperennialsf/\">@theperennialsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (Entrees $18-$24)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Want to help the environment? Try of one of these Bay Area restaurants known for their commitment to sustainability—and delicious food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1507303757,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1902},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 5 Sustainable Restaurants in San Francisco, Berkeley, Oakland and Sausalito | KQED","description":"Want to help the environment? Try of one of these Bay Area restaurants known for their commitment to sustainability—and delicious food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"120872 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120872","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/10/03/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-sustainable-restaurants-in-san-francisco-berkeley-oakland-and-sausalito/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 5 Sustainable Restaurants in San Francisco, Berkeley, Oakland and Sausalito","path":"/bayareabites/120872/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-sustainable-restaurants-in-san-francisco-berkeley-oakland-and-sausalito","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area’s commitment to ethical food is almost taken for granted these day, with seemingly every new restaurant touting ingredients and sourcing that would make Michael Pollan proud. But that doesn’t mean that it’s become any less important to focus on sustainable food. Most of us don’t have the power to make the kind of large-scale decisions that affect our food systems the way say, a giant food conglomerate or the government can. But we can choose to buy organic, or select a restaurant that emphasizes sustainability for our Friday night date. Here are just a few of the restaurants in the Bay Area that are trying to create a better world through the growing, selection and preparation of the food they serve. But we know this list is just a sampling of the many great environmentally-friendly restaurants in the area. Did we miss your favorite? Let us know in the comments below.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Fish\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121137\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993.png\" alt=\"The fish and chips at Fish featured local cod.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-160x103.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-800x516.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-768x495.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-1020x658.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-1180x761.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-960x619.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-240x155.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-375x242.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0993-520x335.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fish and chips at Fish featured local cod. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you have a craving for seafood and want to ensure you’re getting a sustainable option, head to Sausalito’s \u003cstrong>Fish.\u003c/strong> Just don’t forget your cash--or a pair of sunglasses. The cash-only restaurant features a selection of casual fish dishes like fish tacos, chowder and tuna melts similar to what you can find at any waterfront restaurant in the Bay Area with one significant difference: all the fish is sustainably sourced, much of it from local fishermen, with the higher prices that come with such conscientiousness. (The combination of casualness and high prices might not be for everyone: if you’re offended by the idea of a $36 crab roll paired with wine from a Mason jar, go elsewhere.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121136\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987.png\" alt=\"You can get the fish of the day--here, a rainbow trout--with pasta, salad or as part of a sandwich.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-160x108.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-800x540.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-768x518.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-1020x688.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-1180x796.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-960x648.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-240x162.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-375x253.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0987-520x351.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can get the fish of the day--here, a rainbow trout--with pasta, salad or as part of a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-121134 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945.png\" alt=\"Fish offers a several varieties types of sustainable fish. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-800x600.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-768x576.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-1020x765.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-1180x885.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-960x720.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-375x281.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0945-520x390.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish offers a several varieties types of sustainable fish. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For those willing to spend the money, it’s a charming experience. The restaurant overlooks Richardson Bay, so there’s a waterfront view as you enjoy winning renditions of classic dishes like fish and chips--shatteringly crispy, served with plump steak fries and an herbaceous tartar sauce. Their clam chowder is far better than the bowls of cream you get at Pier 39. It’s thinner but boasts a stronger clam flavor, with large pieces of bacon and even larger chunks of potatoes. They also feature several fish of the day, which you can get in a sandwich, with pasta or with a salad. On our visit it was squid, herring and trout. The rainbow trout, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2014/02/13/vegetarian-farmed-fish-may-be-key-to-sustainable-aquaculture/\">sustainably farmed from McFarland Springs\u003c/a>, was cooked perfectly, with a hint of char from their wood-fired grill. Atop a bed of greens and paired with a bright vinaigrette, it was an ideal lunch for a sunny Sausalito afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121138\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652.png\" alt=\"Clam chowder from Fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-800x1067.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-768x1024.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-1020x1360.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-1180x1573.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-960x1280.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-240x320.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-375x500.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_33652-520x693.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam chowder from Fish. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">\u003cstrong>Fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n350 Harbor Dr [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ckHSKgeewGG2\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSausalito, CA 94965\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 331-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun, 11:30m-8:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Fish-Restaurant-177088469103/\">Fish Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FishinSausalito\">@FishinSausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fishrestaurantsausalito/\">@fishrestaurantsausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (Entrees $18-$24)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Vik’s Chaat & Market\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121118\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy pani puri is just one of the delicious Indian snack foods Vik's offers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0604-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy pani puri is just one of the delicious Indian snack foods Vik's offers. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every day, people flock to an unassuming part of West Berkeley for the Indian street food at \u003cstrong>Vik’s Chaat\u003c/strong>. For its fans, which range from groups of coworkers out for a birthday lunch to spandex-clad bikers debating the best post-workout meal (a peanut butter sandwich, one argued), the draw is the restaurant's mix of entrees and smaller dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121120\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121120\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636.jpg\" alt=\"If you get the lunch special at Vik's, you'll receive a tray heavy with a variety of delicious sides.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0636-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If you get the lunch special at Vik's, you'll receive a tray heavy with a variety of delicious sides. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1925px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121119\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626.jpg\" alt=\"The rapidly-deflating cholle bhature makes a perfect vehicle for scooping up chana masala.\" width=\"1925\" height=\"1444\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626.jpg 1925w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0626-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1925px) 100vw, 1925px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rapidly-deflating cholle bhature makes a perfect vehicle for scooping up chana masala. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You can get a lunch special, where you’ll be presented with heavy tray of well-seasoned lamb (or chicken or fish if that’s your preference) served with rice, chapati, dal, achar, raita and papad. Or you can get a variety of smaller dishes to share, like the crunchy pani puri--a deep fried puff filled with chickpeas, just waiting to be filled with the accompanying mint water or a dollop of tamarind chutney. And there’s the drama of the cholle bhature--labeled on the menu as “the big puffy thing”-- which comes out towering and slowly deflates so you’re able to rip a piece off and top it with chana masala. But what most people don’t know is the restaurant is also a model of sustainability. Sure, they have separate trash cans for composting, but the building itself boasts \u003ca href=\"http://vikschaat.com/green-features/\">several eco-friendly touches\u003c/a>: it relies on skylights for cooling, instead of air conditioning; the wooden benches and wainscoting are recycled from a San Francisco gym; and part of the building’s outside was made from sand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121121\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657.jpg\" alt=\"Popular Indian restaurant Vik's is housed in a building with several sustainable features, including skylights to moderate temperature instead of air conditioning.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0657-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Popular Indian restaurant Vik's is housed in a building with several sustainable features, including skylights to moderate temperature instead of air conditioning. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://vikschaat.com/\">\u003cstrong>Vik’s Chaat & Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2390 Fourth St [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/QZhbkHpF1G82\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94710\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 644-4432\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11am-6pm; Fri-Sun, 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ViksChaat/\">Vik’s Chaat\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121127\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844.jpg\" alt=\"Every ingredient at the Plant Cafe, including the condiments, are organic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-160x96.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-800x480.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-768x461.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-1020x613.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-1180x709.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-960x577.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-240x144.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-375x225.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0844-520x312.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Every ingredient at the Plant Cafe, including the condiments, are organic. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The inclusion of “organic” in the name is the first tip off that the Bay Area fast casual restaurant chain The \u003cstrong>Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/strong>, with six locations scattered around San Francisco and Mill Valley, is committed to sustainability. And indeed, they are, with 100% of the restaurant's ingredients coming from organic sources. Even the condiments--ketchup, mustard, hot sauce--are organic. Their menu includes lots of healthy options like grain bowls, meal-worthy salads and smoothies (on my visit, many besuited Financial District workers were happily slurping tumblers of green liquids) but there’s also less wholesome options. A fried chicken sandwich was appropriately crispy, topped with a pile of crunchy, mildly spicy slaw. The restaurant also changes seasonally. Their summer cobb had all the best parts of the original--egg, blue cheese, avocado--but with an added crunch from roasted chickpeas and green beans and a freshness from a zingy lemon flax vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121129\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862.png\" alt=\"A crispy fried chicken sandwich with the soup of the day from the Plant Cafe Organic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-160x108.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-800x540.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-768x518.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-1020x688.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-1180x796.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-960x648.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-240x162.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-375x253.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0862-520x351.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crispy fried chicken sandwich with the soup of the day from the Plant Cafe Organic. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at the Plant Cafe Organic changes seasonally to make room for dishes like this summer Cobb salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1422\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121188\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-800x593.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-768x569.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-1020x755.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-1180x874.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-960x711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-240x178.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-375x278.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_0858-520x385.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at the Plant Cafe Organic changes seasonally to make room for dishes like this summer Cobb salad. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://theplantcafe.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nVarious locations in San Francisco and Mill Valley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/XKekUc\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theplantcafeorganic/\">The Plant Cafe Organic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theplantcafe\">@theplantcafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theplantcafeorganic/\">@theplantcafeorganic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$ (Entrees $11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752.jpg\" alt=\"The gumbo featured smoked chicken and shrimp.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0752-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The gumbo featured smoked chicken and shrimp. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong> has big plans for its future. There’s the forthcoming move from West Oakland \u003ca href=\"https://www.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/news/2017/06/07/uptown-oakland-restaurants-brown-sugar-bocanova.html\">to Uptown\u003c/a>, and new plans for a smaller spot \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/9/21/16346774/tanya-holland-brown-sugar-kitchen-ferry-building\">at the Ferry Building\u003c/a>. It’s easy to understand why they’re eager to expand. They’re so beloved that a wait for their weekend brunch--featuring their star dish, chicken and waffles--can stretch into multiple hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121139\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Kitchen reduces their waste through composting with a local farm, and using ingredients in as many dishes as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_07471yj-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Kitchen reduces their waste through composting with a local farm, and using ingredients in as many dishes as possible. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121125\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749.jpg\" alt=\"A pork hash exemplified the restaurant's zero waste policies, featuring pork leftover from making other dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0749-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pork hash exemplified the restaurant's zero waste policies, featuring pork leftover from making other dishes. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to their exemplary food, they’re also focused on reducing the amount of waste they produce. Chef Tanya Holland has committed to a new zero waste initiative, meaning that they’re focused on composting --a nearby community garden gets their food scraps and eggshells-- as well as stretching ingredients as far as they can. That means leftover vegetables from their veggie scramble might find their way into their swamp-colored gumbo, a rich, aromatic mix of vegetables and chilies tangled around shrimp and smoked chicken. Similarly, their hash features pork smoked in house and uses up leftovers from their pulled pork sandwiches. It’s then crisped together with potatoes, peppers and onions and topped with poached eggs for a filling, spicy meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://brownsugarkitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2534 Mandela Pkwy [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/tcWQj5Rppik\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 839-7685\u003cbr>\nHours: Closed Monday; Tue-Sat 7am-3pm; Sun 8am-3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/brownsugarkitchen/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BrownSugarKitch\">@BrownSugarKitch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ Entrees ($11-$17)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Perennial\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884.png\" alt=\"The Perennial has a small fish tank in the restaurant to demonstrate the aquaponic system they use to grow their lettuce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1718\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121130\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-160x143.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-800x716.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-768x687.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-1020x913.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-1180x1056.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-960x859.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-240x215.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-375x336.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0884-520x465.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial has a small fish tank in the restaurant to demonstrate the aquaponic system they use to grow their lettuce. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Perennial\u003c/strong> wants to “fight climate change with delicious food and drinks.” This admirable goal is achieved through a \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/projects/\">variety of creative methods\u003c/a> that go beyond the Bay Area mainstay of “local and organic produce.” They use an aquaponic greenhouse to raise their greens and fish. Their bread isn’t Acme or Tartine, but made in-house from Kernza, a perennial grain that’s better for the soil than wheat. Their meat comes from ranches that use carbon farming, a technique that produces less methane than traditional methods. They’ve received a lot of attention for their efforts--”Did you see the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/20/dining/san-francisco-chefs-climate-change.html?mcubz=0\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> article\u003c/a>?” a beaming server asked the table next to us--and on a recent weeknight, the place was filled with couples on dates and cheerful groups of coworkers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121131\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895.jpg\" alt=\"The Perennial's bread is made from Kernza, an alternative to wheat that's better for the soil.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0895-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perennial's bread is made from Kernza, an alternative to wheat that's better for the soil. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907.png\" alt=\"The restaurant's greens come from an aquaponic farm in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-800x598.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-768x574.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-1020x763.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-1180x883.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-960x718.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-375x280.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0907-520x389.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant's greens come from an aquaponic farm in West Oakland. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The menu is available as a three or four course meal, but is also available a la carte, our server said. When she found out that my friend and I wanted to order a few dishes and split an entree, she muttered something about needing to order two entrees and OpenTable points as she walked away. (I scoured my reservation email and the website, but didn’t see any such requirement.) Eventually she returned, dumping our dishes on the table. The Kernza bread was hearty and slightly nutty, similar to a levain sourdough. “If I could only eat this bread the rest of my life, I’d be ok with that,” my friend said, and I agreed. The aquaponic greens come from the restaurant's West Oakland greenhouse, and were crisp, delicately dressed in a vinaigrette atop a few dabs of a creamy, avocado based dressing. Our lamb (a note on the menu mentioned that a carbon ranching surcharge would be added to our bill “to reflect the true cost of beef and lamb”) was meltingly tender, surrounded by cauliflower prepared in a variety of methods. Some florets were pickled, others roasted, and the whole arrangement was accompanied by a slick of roasted cauliflower puree, assertively salted and almost cheesy tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121133\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924.png\" alt='The lamb and cauliflower entree included a surcharge to \"reflect the true cost of beef and lamb.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-160x120.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-800x600.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-768x576.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-1020x765.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-1180x885.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-960x720.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-240x180.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-375x281.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_0924-520x390.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lamb and cauliflower entree included a surcharge to \"reflect the true cost of beef and lamb.\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Perennial\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n59 9th St [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/jipK63qpecB2\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 500-7788\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 5:30-9pm; Closed Sun\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ThePerennialSF/\">The Perennial\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/theperennialsf\">@theperennialsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theperennialsf/\">@theperennialsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $$$ (Entrees $18-$24)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/120872/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-sustainable-restaurants-in-san-francisco-berkeley-oakland-and-sausalito","authors":["5566"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_15153","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_8924","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_15977","bayareabites_2222","bayareabites_10492","bayareabites_9491","bayareabites_15978","bayareabites_9441"],"featImg":"bayareabites_121136","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_101147":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_101147","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"101147","score":null,"sort":[1442952797000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco","title":"Chef Gabriela Cámara's Cala Brings Coastal Mexican Food to San Francisco","publishDate":1442952797,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Gabriela Cámara in her kitchen on opening night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Gabriela Cámara in her kitchen on opening night. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Gabriela Cámara is known throughout Mexico for her refined command of seafood, at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.contramar.com.mx/\" target=\"_blank\">Contramar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://merotoro.mx/\" target=\"_blank\">MeroToro\u003c/a>. The former is arguably Mexico City’s best landlocked seafood restaurant, and the latter is a deep exploration of the cooking of Baja, both surf and turf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cala\u003c/a> is Cámara’s first restaurant in the U.S., and it opened softly last night in San Francisco’s outer Hayes Valley on Fell Street at Van Ness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cámara was in the kitchen this evening the whole time I was marveling at the gorgeous space, preparing course after course of deeply satisfying food. At one point, her five-year-old son waltzed in to the dining room and began charming total strangers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is currently very small to allow the staff to get their bearings. Any confusion that arose was handled graciously and gracefully by a warm and welcoming crew. It’s clear that they are part of the mission to bring Cámara’s bold seafood recipes to the northern California coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920.jpg\" alt=\"The bar and communal dining space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar and communal dining space. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While she arrives with accolades from other luminaries, including Diana Kennedy and Alice Waters, it is \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodmexicocity.com/ladies-who-lunch-the-women-of-mexican-cuisine.html#/offtopic/\" target=\"_blank\">Nicholas Gilman\u003c/a>, Mexico City-based blogger and author of \u003cem>Good Food Mexico City\u003c/em>, who argues that Cámara is one of a handful of women who have kept the culinary traditions of Mexico alive while innovating and exploring her own style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started my meal with a margarita made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.anchordistilling.com/brand/mezcal/\" target=\"_blank\">Mezcal Amarás\u003c/a> with citrus cane syrup, lime juice and orange bitters. It’s a wonder how the simple shift from tequila to mezcal skews the classic drink in an altogether new direction, with its essentially phenolic quality. (In lay terms, it has a fresh Band-Aid aroma, but that doesn’t make it sound nearly as good as it is.) This flavor is ideal with the high-acid foods on the menu, including the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Escabeche\" target=\"_blank\">escabeche\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of vegetables that came out as a little snack at the beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920.jpg\" alt=\"Mezcal margarita and vegetable escabeche.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezcal margarita and vegetable escabeche. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then I ordered three dishes off the menu of 11 items. First up was a plate of four mini-tostadas topped with silky raw trout, a creamy chipotle sauce and fried leeks. It’s a perfect starter to share, each just a few hand-held bites and light as a feather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101159\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920.jpg\" alt=\"Trout tostadas with chipotle sauce and fried leeks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101159\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trout tostadas with chipotle sauce and fried leeks. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A colorful, glistening halibut ceviche arrived next, with sea beans and avocado, redolent of lime and served with homemade \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tostones\" target=\"_blank\">tostones\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The tomatoes are chopped more finely than is typical, giving the dish careful composure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920.jpg\" alt=\"Cala's Halibut ceviche with sea beans and avocado\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halibut ceviche with sea beans and avocado \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, the best dish of all appeared in a string of excellent dishes: Bay shrimp with habañero scooped into homemade \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicharr%C3%B3n\" target=\"_blank\">chicharrónes\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which were crisp around the sides and meltingly chewy under the shrimp mixture. What looked like minced cucumbers were, blessedly, little pieces of celery; they gave the sweet shrimp an unexpected and welcome earthiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101158\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chicharrónes and bay shrimp with habañero.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101158\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicharrónes and Bay shrimp with habañero.\u003cbr> \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While seafood is the kitchen’s focus, sustainability is its mission. Cámara has worked hard to source sustainable fish that will work for her style of cooking. Based on what I saw last evening, these local choices translate seamlessly to the Mexican flavor profiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should have ordered the cucumber sorbet and lemon granite with mezcal and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://mezcalistas.com/sal-de-gusano/\" target=\"_blank\">sal de gusano\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for dessert. It was a warm night, and it would’ve completed the agave circle, echoing back to the lovely mezcal margarita I’d started with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But alas, I was too full. But I was satiated by the aesthetic pleasure of the room: distressed white walls; a fiddlehead fig tree growing up through the center of the room; a wall of vines along the side; the city’s first restaurant with a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/05/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyer sound system\u003c/a>. I can’t wait for the full menu to be available, along with the taco truck Cámara is planning to put out back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a.jpg\" alt=\"The fiddlehead fern in the center of the dining room.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fiddlehead fern in the center of the dining room.\u003cbr> \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Cala\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n149 Fell St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/F1wVZm\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 660-7701\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily, 6-10pm\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/g_camara_b\" target=\"_blank\">@g_camara_b\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: Small plates, $-$$ ($7-$18); larger plates, $$$-$$$$ ($19-$38)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101156\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Cala on Fell Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101156\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Cala on Fell Street. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mexico culinary star Gabriela Cámara opens her first stateside restaurant in Hayes Valley.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1455746656,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":763},"headData":{"title":"Chef Gabriela Cámara's Cala Brings Coastal Mexican Food to San Francisco | KQED","description":"Mexico culinary star Gabriela Cámara opens her first stateside restaurant in Hayes Valley.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"101147 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=101147","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/22/chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco/","disqusTitle":"Chef Gabriela Cámara's Cala Brings Coastal Mexican Food to San Francisco","source":"New Restaurant ","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/restaurants-and-bars/","path":"/bayareabites/101147/chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Gabriela Cámara in her kitchen on opening night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/chef1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Gabriela Cámara in her kitchen on opening night. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Gabriela Cámara is known throughout Mexico for her refined command of seafood, at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.contramar.com.mx/\" target=\"_blank\">Contramar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://merotoro.mx/\" target=\"_blank\">MeroToro\u003c/a>. The former is arguably Mexico City’s best landlocked seafood restaurant, and the latter is a deep exploration of the cooking of Baja, both surf and turf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cala\u003c/a> is Cámara’s first restaurant in the U.S., and it opened softly last night in San Francisco’s outer Hayes Valley on Fell Street at Van Ness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cámara was in the kitchen this evening the whole time I was marveling at the gorgeous space, preparing course after course of deeply satisfying food. At one point, her five-year-old son waltzed in to the dining room and began charming total strangers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is currently very small to allow the staff to get their bearings. Any confusion that arose was handled graciously and gracefully by a warm and welcoming crew. It’s clear that they are part of the mission to bring Cámara’s bold seafood recipes to the northern California coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920.jpg\" alt=\"The bar and communal dining space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar and communal dining space. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While she arrives with accolades from other luminaries, including Diana Kennedy and Alice Waters, it is \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodmexicocity.com/ladies-who-lunch-the-women-of-mexican-cuisine.html#/offtopic/\" target=\"_blank\">Nicholas Gilman\u003c/a>, Mexico City-based blogger and author of \u003cem>Good Food Mexico City\u003c/em>, who argues that Cámara is one of a handful of women who have kept the culinary traditions of Mexico alive while innovating and exploring her own style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started my meal with a margarita made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.anchordistilling.com/brand/mezcal/\" target=\"_blank\">Mezcal Amarás\u003c/a> with citrus cane syrup, lime juice and orange bitters. It’s a wonder how the simple shift from tequila to mezcal skews the classic drink in an altogether new direction, with its essentially phenolic quality. (In lay terms, it has a fresh Band-Aid aroma, but that doesn’t make it sound nearly as good as it is.) This flavor is ideal with the high-acid foods on the menu, including the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Escabeche\" target=\"_blank\">escabeche\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of vegetables that came out as a little snack at the beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920.jpg\" alt=\"Mezcal margarita and vegetable escabeche.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/margarita1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezcal margarita and vegetable escabeche. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then I ordered three dishes off the menu of 11 items. First up was a plate of four mini-tostadas topped with silky raw trout, a creamy chipotle sauce and fried leeks. It’s a perfect starter to share, each just a few hand-held bites and light as a feather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101159\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920.jpg\" alt=\"Trout tostadas with chipotle sauce and fried leeks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101159\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/trout1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trout tostadas with chipotle sauce and fried leeks. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A colorful, glistening halibut ceviche arrived next, with sea beans and avocado, redolent of lime and served with homemade \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tostones\" target=\"_blank\">tostones\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The tomatoes are chopped more finely than is typical, giving the dish careful composure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920.jpg\" alt=\"Cala's Halibut ceviche with sea beans and avocado\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ceviche1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Halibut ceviche with sea beans and avocado \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, the best dish of all appeared in a string of excellent dishes: Bay shrimp with habañero scooped into homemade \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicharr%C3%B3n\" target=\"_blank\">chicharrónes\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which were crisp around the sides and meltingly chewy under the shrimp mixture. What looked like minced cucumbers were, blessedly, little pieces of celery; they gave the sweet shrimp an unexpected and welcome earthiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101158\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chicharrónes and bay shrimp with habañero.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101158\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/shrimp1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicharrónes and Bay shrimp with habañero.\u003cbr> \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While seafood is the kitchen’s focus, sustainability is its mission. Cámara has worked hard to source sustainable fish that will work for her style of cooking. Based on what I saw last evening, these local choices translate seamlessly to the Mexican flavor profiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should have ordered the cucumber sorbet and lemon granite with mezcal and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://mezcalistas.com/sal-de-gusano/\" target=\"_blank\">sal de gusano\u003c/a>\u003c/em> for dessert. It was a warm night, and it would’ve completed the agave circle, echoing back to the lovely mezcal margarita I’d started with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But alas, I was too full. But I was satiated by the aesthetic pleasure of the room: distressed white walls; a fiddlehead fig tree growing up through the center of the room; a wall of vines along the side; the city’s first restaurant with a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/05/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyer sound system\u003c/a>. I can’t wait for the full menu to be available, along with the taco truck Cámara is planning to put out back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a.jpg\" alt=\"The fiddlehead fern in the center of the dining room.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/bar1920a-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fiddlehead fern in the center of the dining room.\u003cbr> \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.calarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Cala\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n149 Fell St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/F1wVZm\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 660-7701\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily, 6-10pm\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/g_camara_b\" target=\"_blank\">@g_camara_b\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: Small plates, $-$$ ($7-$18); larger plates, $$$-$$$$ ($19-$38)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101156\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Cala on Fell Street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101156\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/exterior1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Cala on Fell Street. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/101147/chef-gabriela-camaras-cala-brings-coastal-mexican-food-to-san-francisco","authors":["5575"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_14872","bayareabites_14873","bayareabites_9269","bayareabites_180","bayareabites_14874","bayareabites_10597","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_9491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_101154","label":"source_bayareabites_101147"},"bayareabites_63563":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_63563","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"63563","score":null,"sort":[1371772031000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson","title":"Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson","publishDate":1371772031,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Admit it: When faced with fish, you buy fillets. But why? Is it the face? The fins? Fear of scales? Fear of bones? Well, get over it. Now that our \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/oceansalmon.asp\">local sport and commercial salmon fishing season is open\u003c/a>, you might very well find yourself tempted--or treated--to a whole fish, and when that happens, it's handy to know how to handle it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63810\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's also much more economical, and sustainable, to feed yourself nose-to-fin on a whole wild fish. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, Bay Area Bites writer, former commercial salmon fisherwoman, and author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a> recently teamed up with chef Neil Davidson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missiongastroclub.org/\">Mission Gastroclub\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/WhipOutFoodTruck\">Whip Out\u003c/a> food truck to teach a hands-on class in scaling, filleting, preserving, and smoking whole fish at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The class, presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA)\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbankitchensf.org\">Urban Kitchen SF\u003c/a>, was held from 5:30 to 7:30pm last Thursday in CUESA's outdoor kitchen, under the porticos of the Ferry Building. It's not the most comfortable place for a cooking class; it's outside, after all, and instructions can be hard to hear over traffic noise as cars, trucks, and motorcycles screech and toot their way along The Embarcadero just yards away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's hard not to be entranced by the massive, silvery whole salmon laid out in front of Davidson. This is the creme de la creme of Pacific Coast salmon: a wild king, fresh from the ocean just north of Sonoma County. Of course, as Finn points out, tasty, healthful dishes can be made from all five of our local salmon types, including pink, chum, silver, and sockeye. But for superlative texture and flavor, the king is king. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63849\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson goes over the fish, telling us what to look for when choosing a fish: eyes that look clear and full, still sitting high in the socket, not sunken into the head; no cuts or slashes on the body; fins that are still in good shape. This fish has already been gutted, so there's just a neat cavity where the guts would have been. Picking up a thin, flexible, slightly curved filleting knife, Davidson quickly scrapes off the scales using the back (dull side) of the knife. This is a job to do outside, if possible, since the small, mica-like scales will pop off and fly everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63813\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fish is scaled, Davidson crunches his knife through the spine just behind the head, then slides it across the broad flanks of the fish along the ribs and spine all way to the tail, effortlessly freeing the whole long stretch of flesh from the bones. It looks easy only because he's been doing it professionally for years, from cooking school in Portland, OR to stints at The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. But, as he points out, the knife should be doing most of the work for you; what he's doing is mainly guiding it over the bones, following the structure of the fish. Angle the knife slightly downward, so that it won't cut up and into the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filleting whole salmon side by Chef Neil Davidson.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef3g89DBBc0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along the bottom of each fillet is the belly meat, thickly streaked with white fat. As Finn points out, it's delicious (and full of beneficial omega-3 fats) but less meaty, which means it's often sliced off and discarded by fishmongers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Salmon with one side filleted. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63862\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson fillets other side of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63861\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson displays cut fillet of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63863\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he's freed up both sides, he points out the other delicious bits still left: the thick ring of flesh just behind the head, known as the collar, that makes for a delicious roast, since it's so fatty; the cheeks; the flesh you can scrape from the bones with the edge of a spoon and use for salmon patties or croquettes. The head, boiled with ginger and seaweed, makes a good broth that can be mixed with miso for a Japanese-styled soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63859\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63859\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With needle-nose pliers (or \u003ca href=\"http://www.hidatool.com/bone-tweezers-western-style\">bone tweezers\u003c/a>), Davidson quickly yanks out the pin bones studding the fillet. For smoking, he'd leave the bones in, to help preserve the shape of the fish, but for grilling or poaching, fewer bones are preferable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63867\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63867\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, we're putting the fillets through a quick cure, to pull out some of the liquid before poaching. If you've ever made bacon, the process will be familiar. The cure is equal parts (by weight) of salt and sugar. Finn notes that some native tribes in Alaska add pine tips to their cures; this being Mediterranean-minded San Francisco, Davidson adds some shreds of preserved Meyer lemon rind to his. Davidson skins the fillet before curing; without the skin, the fish will cure faster. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63873\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63874\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63870\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63871\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63872\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To skin it, he lays the side of fish skin side down, close to the edge of the counter. He cuts straight down through the flesh (but not through the skin) about half an inch from the tail, making a little tab of skin to hold onto with the hand that's not holding the knife. Holding one end of skin taut as you cut helps steady the fish and make it easier to get all the way down to that sweet spot right between the flesh and skin. Then, he slides the knife parallel to the counter, cutting the flesh free from the skin in one steady motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skinning a Whole Side of Salmon.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBMg2J4BmhQ]\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>A few tips:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>Take as few strokes with the knife as you can, and make sure they're long\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Glide your knife through, don't saw up and down\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Listen through your fingers and pay attention to what your knife is telling you\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In my experience, if it feels like you're doing it perfectly, stop and take a look: You're probably missing the skin entirely and are just blithely sliding your knife between the fish and the counter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're planning to smoke your fish, leave the skin on, to protect the fish and make it easier to move in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>We get to practice our filleting and skinning, not on salmon, but on smaller, less expensive (and more approachable) black cod, each roughly the size of a trout. Finn assures us that black cod is also a great candidate for curing, poaching, and smoking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63885\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson helps students butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63882\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Students in class working on butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63883\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cure, Davidson lines a sheet pan with plastic wrap or aluminum foil, spreads out a thick layer of the salt/sugar mixture, tops it with the skinned fillet, then covers the fish with the rest of the mixture. Then goes into the fridge, ideally for one hour for every inch of thickness. If you're planning to smoke your fish, once the fish is cured, rinse off the salt/sugar mixture, pat the fish dry, and return the fish to rest in the fridge, uncovered, overnight. The surface will dry out and feel slightly tacky; the fish will take the smoke best like this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the stove, Davidson has been heating up a wide saucepan half-filled with olive oil, bringing it up to a temperature between 160-180ºF. Once the fish is cured, it's rinsed off, patted dry, then slipped into the warm oil to poach. In five minutes, the fish has paled and gone from translucent to opaque. Once it flakes easily, it's done. Scooped out of the oil, it's packed firmly into clean canning jars, to just below the lowest \"ridge\" of the screw-top indentations. The cooking oil (no need to use extra-virgin; a decent pure olive oil is fine) is poured through a fine-mesh strainer to completely cover the fish and fill the jar. Using a skewer, poke through the jar and make sure there are no air bubbles. Cover with canning jar lids and rings. It's best to store home-canned fish in the refrigerator. As long as the fish is thoroughly covered in oil, it can last for several months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Poaching salmon in olive oil. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63890\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Canning poached cured salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63891\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The canned salmon steaming. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63889\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson packs a few jars to demonstrate, then fills a plate for us to taste. It's moist, mild, and rich, much better than any store-bought canned salmon I've ever tasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we move on smoking. Like scaling, this is best done outside, since the smoke from both the charcoal and the wood chips will smoke up any kitchen not equipped with near-professional quality vents over the stove (and plenty of windows). Using a perforated grilling tray, Davidson gets some charcoal glowing over the burner of the outdoor stove, then spreads it over the bottom of a heavy, 6-inch deep hotel pan. He tosses a handful of wood chips in another perforated tray, gets them burning, then douses them lightly with water to put out the flames, leaving them smoking. The smoking chip pan goes over the charcoal. Another perforated pan goes upside down over the chips and charcoal, and the salmon is laid out on top. A lid goes over the pan, and voila: it's a hot-smoking smoke box, which will cook and smoke the fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Stovetop preparations to poach and smoke salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63896\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson smoking the salmon on the stovetop. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The finished smoked salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63888\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two or three times, Davidson adds more smoking wood chips, slipping them onto the charcoal at the bottom of the pan. At 145-150ºF, the fish is cooked, lifting easily off the skin and with a lacquered-looking amber surface. He slides the fish onto a plate, and in moments, the heap of warm-from-the-smoker salmon is demolished, down to a smudge of oil and a few stray pin bones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63893\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cured and Olive-Oil Poached Black Cod\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Black cod, also known as sablefish, is less expensive than salmon, but has a firm, rich flesh that's well-suited to oil-poaching and canning. Recipe courtesy of Neil Davidson.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 black cod filet (1-2 lbs), skin removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Make the cure by mixing the salt and sugar together. Line a tray long enough to hold the whole filet with plastic wrap. Put a thick layer of cure on the plastic. Lay the filet on the cure and cover with remaining cure, so that filet is fully covered. Refrigerate for 30 minutes; typically, you want to cure fish one hour for every inch of thickness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>While the cod is curing, heat oil in a wide saucepan to 180ºF. Rinse cure off fish and pat dry. Add the fish to the hot oil. (It's fine to cut the filets to fit them in the oil.) Keep the oil between 160-180ºF. The fish should be cooked in no more than 2 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Pack the fish firmly into clean canning jars. Strain the hot cooking oil into the jars, making sure the fish is completely covered and that there are no air pockets. The canned fish will keep in the refrigerator for two to three months, as long as the fish is kept completely covered in oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Wild salmon season's in full swing. Through CUESA and Urban Kitchen SF, Stephanie Rosenbaum learns from chef Neil Davidson and fishing expert Maria Finn how to fillet, cure, can, and smoke whole salmon and black cod. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1428354859,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1977},"headData":{"title":"Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson | KQED","description":"Wild salmon season's in full swing. Through CUESA and Urban Kitchen SF, Stephanie Rosenbaum learns from chef Neil Davidson and fishing expert Maria Finn how to fillet, cure, can, and smoke whole salmon and black cod. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"63563 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=63563","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/","disqusTitle":"Learn How To Butcher, Smoke and Can a Whole Fish with Chef Neil Davidson","path":"/bayareabites/63563/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Admit it: When faced with fish, you buy fillets. But why? Is it the face? The fins? Fear of scales? Fear of bones? Well, get over it. Now that our \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/oceansalmon.asp\">local sport and commercial salmon fishing season is open\u003c/a>, you might very well find yourself tempted--or treated--to a whole fish, and when that happens, it's handy to know how to handle it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63810\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson filleting a whole salmon. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's also much more economical, and sustainable, to feed yourself nose-to-fin on a whole wild fish. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/mariafinn/\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, Bay Area Bites writer, former commercial salmon fisherwoman, and author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a> recently teamed up with chef Neil Davidson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missiongastroclub.org/\">Mission Gastroclub\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/WhipOutFoodTruck\">Whip Out\u003c/a> food truck to teach a hands-on class in scaling, filleting, preserving, and smoking whole fish at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishclass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Finn and Neil Davidson teaching Whole Fish Fabrication and Preservation Class. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The class, presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org\">Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA)\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.urbankitchensf.org\">Urban Kitchen SF\u003c/a>, was held from 5:30 to 7:30pm last Thursday in CUESA's outdoor kitchen, under the porticos of the Ferry Building. It's not the most comfortable place for a cooking class; it's outside, after all, and instructions can be hard to hear over traffic noise as cars, trucks, and motorcycles screech and toot their way along The Embarcadero just yards away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's hard not to be entranced by the massive, silvery whole salmon laid out in front of Davidson. This is the creme de la creme of Pacific Coast salmon: a wild king, fresh from the ocean just north of Sonoma County. Of course, as Finn points out, tasty, healthful dishes can be made from all five of our local salmon types, including pink, chum, silver, and sockeye. But for superlative texture and flavor, the king is king. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/wholesalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63849\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole King Salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Davidson goes over the fish, telling us what to look for when choosing a fish: eyes that look clear and full, still sitting high in the socket, not sunken into the head; no cuts or slashes on the body; fins that are still in good shape. This fish has already been gutted, so there's just a neat cavity where the guts would have been. Picking up a thin, flexible, slightly curved filleting knife, Davidson quickly scrapes off the scales using the back (dull side) of the knife. This is a job to do outside, if possible, since the small, mica-like scales will pop off and fly everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63813\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scalingsalmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend \" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson removing scales from a whole salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fish is scaled, Davidson crunches his knife through the spine just behind the head, then slides it across the broad flanks of the fish along the ribs and spine all way to the tail, effortlessly freeing the whole long stretch of flesh from the bones. It looks easy only because he's been doing it professionally for years, from cooking school in Portland, OR to stints at The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. But, as he points out, the knife should be doing most of the work for you; what he's doing is mainly guiding it over the bones, following the structure of the fish. Angle the knife slightly downward, so that it won't cut up and into the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting the king salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filleting whole salmon side by Chef Neil Davidson.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/ef3g89DBBc0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/ef3g89DBBc0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along the bottom of each fillet is the belly meat, thickly streaked with white fat. As Finn points out, it's delicious (and full of beneficial omega-3 fats) but less meaty, which means it's often sliced off and discarded by fishmongers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/fishhalffilleted600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Salmon with one side filleted. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63862\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/filleting-salmon600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson fillets other side of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63861\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/displayfillets600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson displays cut fillet of salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63863\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he's freed up both sides, he points out the other delicious bits still left: the thick ring of flesh just behind the head, known as the collar, that makes for a delicious roast, since it's so fatty; the cheeks; the flesh you can scrape from the bones with the edge of a spoon and use for salmon patties or croquettes. The head, boiled with ginger and seaweed, makes a good broth that can be mixed with miso for a Japanese-styled soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63859\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/scrapingsalmonspoon600.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63859\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses a spoon to scrape remains of salmon from bones to use for fish patties. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With needle-nose pliers (or \u003ca href=\"http://www.hidatool.com/bone-tweezers-western-style\">bone tweezers\u003c/a>), Davidson quickly yanks out the pin bones studding the fillet. For smoking, he'd leave the bones in, to help preserve the shape of the fish, but for grilling or poaching, fewer bones are preferable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63867\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/removingbones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63867\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson uses needle-nose pliers to remove pin bones from salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, we're putting the fillets through a quick cure, to pull out some of the liquid before poaching. If you've ever made bacon, the process will be familiar. The cure is equal parts (by weight) of salt and sugar. Finn notes that some native tribes in Alaska add pine tips to their cures; this being Mediterranean-minded San Francisco, Davidson adds some shreds of preserved Meyer lemon rind to his. Davidson skins the fillet before curing; without the skin, the fish will cure faster. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63873\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/curingfish1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to cure the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-63874\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63870\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600b-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63871\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/skinning600c-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates how to skin the fish. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63872\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To skin it, he lays the side of fish skin side down, close to the edge of the counter. He cuts straight down through the flesh (but not through the skin) about half an inch from the tail, making a little tab of skin to hold onto with the hand that's not holding the knife. Holding one end of skin taut as you cut helps steady the fish and make it easier to get all the way down to that sweet spot right between the flesh and skin. Then, he slides the knife parallel to the counter, cutting the flesh free from the skin in one steady motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Skinning a Whole Side of Salmon.\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Video by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/UBMg2J4BmhQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/UBMg2J4BmhQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003ch3>A few tips:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cli>Take as few strokes with the knife as you can, and make sure they're long\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Glide your knife through, don't saw up and down\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Listen through your fingers and pay attention to what your knife is telling you\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In my experience, if it feels like you're doing it perfectly, stop and take a look: You're probably missing the skin entirely and are just blithely sliding your knife between the fish and the counter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you're planning to smoke your fish, leave the skin on, to protect the fish and make it easier to move in one piece\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>We get to practice our filleting and skinning, not on salmon, but on smaller, less expensive (and more approachable) black cod, each roughly the size of a trout. Finn assures us that black cod is also a great candidate for curing, poaching, and smoking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/blackcod-demo1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson demonstrates filleting black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63885\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000a-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson helps students butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63882\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/classmembersfilleting1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Students in class working on butchering whole black cod. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63883\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cure, Davidson lines a sheet pan with plastic wrap or aluminum foil, spreads out a thick layer of the salt/sugar mixture, tops it with the skinned fillet, then covers the fish with the rest of the mixture. Then goes into the fridge, ideally for one hour for every inch of thickness. If you're planning to smoke your fish, once the fish is cured, rinse off the salt/sugar mixture, pat the fish dry, and return the fish to rest in the fridge, uncovered, overnight. The surface will dry out and feel slightly tacky; the fish will take the smoke best like this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the stove, Davidson has been heating up a wide saucepan half-filled with olive oil, bringing it up to a temperature between 160-180ºF. Once the fish is cured, it's rinsed off, patted dry, then slipped into the warm oil to poach. In five minutes, the fish has paled and gone from translucent to opaque. Once it flakes easily, it's done. Scooped out of the oil, it's packed firmly into clean canning jars, to just below the lowest \"ridge\" of the screw-top indentations. The cooking oil (no need to use extra-virgin; a decent pure olive oil is fine) is poured through a fine-mesh strainer to completely cover the fish and fill the jar. Using a skewer, poke through the jar and make sure there are no air bubbles. Cover with canning jar lids and rings. It's best to store home-canned fish in the refrigerator. As long as the fish is thoroughly covered in oil, it can last for several months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/poachingsalmoninoliveoil1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Poaching salmon in olive oil. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63890\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/canningsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Canning poached cured salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63891\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/cannedsalmon600-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The canned salmon steaming. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63889\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davidson packs a few jars to demonstrate, then fills a plate for us to taste. It's moist, mild, and rich, much better than any store-bought canned salmon I've ever tasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we move on smoking. Like scaling, this is best done outside, since the smoke from both the charcoal and the wood chips will smoke up any kitchen not equipped with near-professional quality vents over the stove (and plenty of windows). Using a perforated grilling tray, Davidson gets some charcoal glowing over the burner of the outdoor stove, then spreads it over the bottom of a heavy, 6-inch deep hotel pan. He tosses a handful of wood chips in another perforated tray, gets them burning, then douses them lightly with water to put out the flames, leaving them smoking. The smoking chip pan goes over the charcoal. Another perforated pan goes upside down over the chips and charcoal, and the salmon is laid out on top. A lid goes over the pan, and voila: it's a hot-smoking smoke box, which will cook and smoke the fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/stove-items1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Stovetop preparations to poach and smoke salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63896\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/smokingsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson smoking the salmon on the stovetop. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/finalsmokedsalmon1000-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"The finished smoked salmon. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-63888\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two or three times, Davidson adds more smoking wood chips, slipping them onto the charcoal at the bottom of the pan. At 145-150ºF, the fish is cooked, lifting easily off the skin and with a lacquered-looking amber surface. He slides the fish onto a plate, and in moments, the heap of warm-from-the-smoker salmon is demolished, down to a smudge of oil and a few stray pin bones. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/eatingsmokedsalmon1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63893\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Neil Davidson serves up the smoked salmon to enthusiastic students. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cured and Olive-Oil Poached Black Cod\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Black cod, also known as sablefish, is less expensive than salmon, but has a firm, rich flesh that's well-suited to oil-poaching and canning. Recipe courtesy of Neil Davidson.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 black cod filet (1-2 lbs), skin removed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Make the cure by mixing the salt and sugar together. Line a tray long enough to hold the whole filet with plastic wrap. Put a thick layer of cure on the plastic. Lay the filet on the cure and cover with remaining cure, so that filet is fully covered. Refrigerate for 30 minutes; typically, you want to cure fish one hour for every inch of thickness.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>While the cod is curing, heat oil in a wide saucepan to 180ºF. Rinse cure off fish and pat dry. Add the fish to the hot oil. (It's fine to cut the filets to fit them in the oil.) Keep the oil between 160-180ºF. The fish should be cooked in no more than 2 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Pack the fish firmly into clean canning jars. Strain the hot cooking oil into the jars, making sure the fish is completely covered and that there are no air pockets. The canned fish will keep in the refrigerator for two to three months, as long as the fish is kept completely covered in oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/63563/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson","authors":["5038","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_10851","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_11848","bayareabites_10111","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_11449","bayareabites_80","bayareabites_9491","bayareabites_431"],"featImg":"bayareabites_63912","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_61936":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_61936","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"61936","score":null,"sort":[1368796516000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"exploratorium-elevates-museum-eating-experience","title":"Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience","publishDate":1368796516,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61994\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoy stellar water views at the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61994\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Exploratorium's new digs boast stellar water views. Photo: Amy Snyder\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The museum cafe, long a place of soggy sandwiches and mediocre meals, is getting a makeover in the Bay Area. Case in point: The recently reopened \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/\">Exploratorium\u003c/a> in new digs at Pier 15 in San Francisco, which offers creative fare tied to the mission of the museum, known for its interactive exhibits and playful approach, designed to encourage curiosity and experimentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think seawater cocktails. Honeycomb with almonds and apricots. And living or fermented foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors have \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/visit/restaurant-cafe\">three eating options\u003c/a>: The 200-seat Seaglass restaurant, complete with panoramic views, a glass-topped raw bar, and open kitchen, which serves up familiar, family-friendly fare like tacos, pizza, and sandwiches -- albeit with a sustainable pedigree -- along with more adventurous eats such as marinated sardines, batter-fried green beans, and kelp salad with quinoa. There's even a local riff on \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/oct/27/how-to-cook-perfect-welsh-rarebit\">Welsh Rarebit\u003c/a> (that's gussied up grilled cheese to the uninitiated.) A full-bar serves cocktails promising a taste of the sea and in-vogue drinking vinegars known as shrubs. Near the museum's Embarcadero entrance, the Seismic Joint offers take-away chow such as a chickpea-battered fish fingers, various spins on clam chowder, salads, and sandwiches. Mobile food trikes (\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/27/a-cozy-coffee-spot-in-oaklands-temescal-alley-the-cro-cafe/\">built by Luigi Oldani and crew of CRO Cafe\u003c/a>) roam the floors, peddling espresso \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanksgivingcoffee.com/\">Thanksgiving\u003c/a> coffee, baked goods, and Strauss organic soft-serve ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The culinary duo behind the Exploratorium's restaurant menu features acclaimed chef Loretta Keller of \u003ca href=\"http://coco500.com/\">Coco500\u003c/a>, a perennial \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/collection/Premium-Top-100-22959.php\">\u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> Top 100 restaurant\u003c/a>, and her Coco500 partner, catering operations manager Clay Reynolds. The pair, who previously partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame to run \u003ca href=\"http://themossroom.com/\">The Moss Room\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.calacademy.org/\">The California Academy of Sciences\u003c/a>, have teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Company\u003c/a>, known for its emphasis on scratch cooking with sustainably sourced ingredients, for the Exploratorium's edible enterprises to form the \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiositycatering.com/\">Curiosity Catering Company\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller talked with BAB about her plans to feed people well \u003cem>and\u003c/em> offer a side of education at the Exploratorium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61993\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\" alt=\"Loretta Keller and Clay Reynolds join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61993\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clay Reynolds and Loretta Keller join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What got you excited about creating food for the Exploratorium?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What resonated with me about this project was a sense of place. The Exploratorium moved from this dark, cavernous space to a venue 800 feet over the water. Place is both a subject to explore and engage with at the Exploratorium. For me that means something in terms of food but also as a human being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The environment and human experience, that's everything to me. The importance of farming and where our food comes from is a very familiar mantra in the Bay Area. When you spend as much time as I do as a professional inside the food industry here you can get to a point where you're in your own zip code. It can become precious and you can lose sight of the fact that our work is not done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than any other reason to be involved here, the museum offers a new and incredibly creative, intelligent and organic opportunity to do work on environmental consciousness, sustainability, and awareness around food and the planet. The Exploratorium is a great way to shake things up and have people engage with an exhibit in a hands-on way. That's where the learning begins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that where the honeycomb comes in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. The honeybee is in peril so by serving the honeycomb I'm hoping to help people stop and think and connect the bee with the almonds and the apricots -- that's why those things are always going to accompany the honeycomb. We want it to be a real exhibit and educational model that people will become intrigued by and realize how endangered bees are, which means your almonds are endangered, and all your stone fruit is endangered, and a whole way of eating is at risk. Bees are struggling with so many things right now; they're overworked and experience bee jet lag. Bees want to winter in Florida, but instead almond growers in California pay exorbitant prices to have them flown or trucked here and put to work to meet demand. California is the biggest producer of almonds in the world, something like 70 percent, and people just take that for granted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61997\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How are you incorporating living and fermented foods into the menu?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are so lucky to have master chef Sachio Kojima, who had his own popular restaurant, Kabuto Sushi A&S, on Geary for more than 20 years, come on as our director of fermentation. He's making seaweed and kelp salads, with kelp gathered from Marin, Mendocino, and Monterey counties, we'll have algae on the menu too. And from our pickling program, we'll offer traditional Japanese pickles, kimchi, and sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61996\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"960\" height=\"453\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61996\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood.\u003cbr>Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where does sustainable seafood fit in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are doing an ocean bar, serving sushi, sashimi, and oysters that Sachio oversees as well. It's all West Coast, Monterey Bay Watch-sanctioned seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We missed the herring run this season but we'll be serving herring next Spring. And we'll serve anchovies in season too; these are really the last of the commercial fisheries within the bay. People have to understand that their choices are becoming so limited with regards to fish. There are very few wild fish that are sustainable. So we'll be serving what people think of as bait and also serving whole fish. That starts a conversation in the U.S. because most people here are not used to seeing a whole fish or bait on a plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\" alt=\"Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\" width=\"640\" height=\"478\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61995\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about seawater and its connection to the new space?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My partner Clay Reynolds wanted to serve filtered seawater to drink, but the technology isn't quite there. And then we wanted to run the dishwasher on seawater but it became clear that that was a whole project on its own. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/science/article/Exploratorium-sets-Net-Zero-energy-goal-4422432.php\">Exploratorium is using seawater to heat the building\u003c/a>, which is quite extraordinary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're using seawater in a cocktail. It turns out that the health department doesn't recognize seawater as a consumable, so we're not allowed to serve seawater per se. But there are kelps available that contain seawater, and there's a Monterey County kelp called sea grape, that we add to our signature martini, which tastes great with a little bit of seawater. So we're garnishing the drink with this kelp whose buds are full of seawater, when you burst them in your mouth you get a nice jolt of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're including seawater in other ways in the restaurant too. The multi-hued glass tiles are based on a museum exhibit called \"Color of Water.\" To create the piece, a fixed-position camera took time-lapse photos of the bay, the color variations are caused by sunlight, tides, and microorganisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piece in the dining room called \"Thermal Mixing\" also demonstrates the dynamics of the bay: It's a triptych of panels of colored water of different temperatures that swirl like giant mood rings on the back wall. \"Icy Bodies\" is an exhibit where fragments of dry ice are pushed into a tank and spin around like comets across a sheet of water below a glass-topped bar. All these are nods to one of the most extraordinary places on the planet for moving water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What role does food play at the museum?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By and large, with few exceptions, the food served at museums in this country is like prison food, just terrible. All this money was being spent on creating the new Exploratorium, which is a gift to residents and visitors of San Francisco, and so it's critical that the food match the museum and its surroundings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First and foremost we want to serve healthy, well-prepared fresh food to the museum goers, that's our mandate. The challenge within that framework is to build in education, implicitly and explicitly, about sustainability. I get to be creative and think outside the box. We plan to do corn education tied to an exhibit and blind wine tastings at our adult nights. At the Exploratorium it's not about looking at stuff, it's about interacting with stuff. There's an intimacy here that provides a direct way to get to people's minds. And food has always been a great platform to reach people because it is so intimate and it's a necessity; people have to eat every day. There aren't that many mediums that offer that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The restaurant is open during regular museum hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5pm; Wednesday evenings until 10pm; every Thursday evening adults only (ages 18 and up) 6pm-10pm. It caters primarily to museum guests, but the public can access the restaurant from an exterior entrance.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Loretta Keller, the force behind the Exploratorium's new culinary options, talks bee jet lag, living foods, and seawater cocktails with BAB's Sarah Henry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368836937,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1537},"headData":{"title":"Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience | KQED","description":"Chef Loretta Keller, the force behind the Exploratorium's new culinary options, talks bee jet lag, living foods, and seawater cocktails with BAB's Sarah Henry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"61936 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=61936","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/17/exploratorium-elevates-museum-eating-experience/","disqusTitle":"Exploratorium Elevates Museum Eating Experience","path":"/bayareabites/61936/exploratorium-elevates-museum-eating-experience","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61994\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/exploratorium-view1000.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoy stellar water views at the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61994\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Exploratorium's new digs boast stellar water views. Photo: Amy Snyder\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The museum cafe, long a place of soggy sandwiches and mediocre meals, is getting a makeover in the Bay Area. Case in point: The recently reopened \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/\">Exploratorium\u003c/a> in new digs at Pier 15 in San Francisco, which offers creative fare tied to the mission of the museum, known for its interactive exhibits and playful approach, designed to encourage curiosity and experimentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think seawater cocktails. Honeycomb with almonds and apricots. And living or fermented foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors have \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/visit/restaurant-cafe\">three eating options\u003c/a>: The 200-seat Seaglass restaurant, complete with panoramic views, a glass-topped raw bar, and open kitchen, which serves up familiar, family-friendly fare like tacos, pizza, and sandwiches -- albeit with a sustainable pedigree -- along with more adventurous eats such as marinated sardines, batter-fried green beans, and kelp salad with quinoa. There's even a local riff on \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/oct/27/how-to-cook-perfect-welsh-rarebit\">Welsh Rarebit\u003c/a> (that's gussied up grilled cheese to the uninitiated.) A full-bar serves cocktails promising a taste of the sea and in-vogue drinking vinegars known as shrubs. Near the museum's Embarcadero entrance, the Seismic Joint offers take-away chow such as a chickpea-battered fish fingers, various spins on clam chowder, salads, and sandwiches. Mobile food trikes (\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/27/a-cozy-coffee-spot-in-oaklands-temescal-alley-the-cro-cafe/\">built by Luigi Oldani and crew of CRO Cafe\u003c/a>) roam the floors, peddling espresso \u003ca href=\"http://www.thanksgivingcoffee.com/\">Thanksgiving\u003c/a> coffee, baked goods, and Strauss organic soft-serve ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The culinary duo behind the Exploratorium's restaurant menu features acclaimed chef Loretta Keller of \u003ca href=\"http://coco500.com/\">Coco500\u003c/a>, a perennial \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/collection/Premium-Top-100-22959.php\">\u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em> Top 100 restaurant\u003c/a>, and her Coco500 partner, catering operations manager Clay Reynolds. The pair, who previously partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://charlesphan.com/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/family\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> fame to run \u003ca href=\"http://themossroom.com/\">The Moss Room\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.calacademy.org/\">The California Academy of Sciences\u003c/a>, have teamed up with \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Company\u003c/a>, known for its emphasis on scratch cooking with sustainably sourced ingredients, for the Exploratorium's edible enterprises to form the \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiositycatering.com/\">Curiosity Catering Company\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller talked with BAB about her plans to feed people well \u003cem>and\u003c/em> offer a side of education at the Exploratorium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61993\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/Clay_Loretta1000.jpg\" alt=\"Loretta Keller and Clay Reynolds join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61993\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clay Reynolds and Loretta Keller join forces at the Exploratorium. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What got you excited about creating food for the Exploratorium?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What resonated with me about this project was a sense of place. The Exploratorium moved from this dark, cavernous space to a venue 800 feet over the water. Place is both a subject to explore and engage with at the Exploratorium. For me that means something in terms of food but also as a human being.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The environment and human experience, that's everything to me. The importance of farming and where our food comes from is a very familiar mantra in the Bay Area. When you spend as much time as I do as a professional inside the food industry here you can get to a point where you're in your own zip code. It can become precious and you can lose sight of the fact that our work is not done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than any other reason to be involved here, the museum offers a new and incredibly creative, intelligent and organic opportunity to do work on environmental consciousness, sustainability, and awareness around food and the planet. The Exploratorium is a great way to shake things up and have people engage with an exhibit in a hands-on way. That's where the learning begins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that where the honeycomb comes in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. The honeybee is in peril so by serving the honeycomb I'm hoping to help people stop and think and connect the bee with the almonds and the apricots -- that's why those things are always going to accompany the honeycomb. We want it to be a real exhibit and educational model that people will become intrigued by and realize how endangered bees are, which means your almonds are endangered, and all your stone fruit is endangered, and a whole way of eating is at risk. Bees are struggling with so many things right now; they're overworked and experience bee jet lag. Bees want to winter in Florida, but instead almond growers in California pay exorbitant prices to have them flown or trucked here and put to work to meet demand. California is the biggest producer of almonds in the world, something like 70 percent, and people just take that for granted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass1000.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61997\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese chef Sachio Kojima, who developed fervent fans for his sushi over the years, heads up Seaglass's seafood and fermentation section. Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How are you incorporating living and fermented foods into the menu?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are so lucky to have master chef Sachio Kojima, who had his own popular restaurant, Kabuto Sushi A&S, on Geary for more than 20 years, come on as our director of fermentation. He's making seaweed and kelp salads, with kelp gathered from Marin, Mendocino, and Monterey counties, we'll have algae on the menu too. And from our pickling program, we'll offer traditional Japanese pickles, kimchi, and sauerkraut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61996\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 960px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seaglass_sushiMap960x453.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood. Photo: Gayle Laird\" width=\"960\" height=\"453\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61996\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors to the Exploratorium's Seaglass restaurant can order from a raw bar full of sustainable seafood.\u003cbr>Photo: Gayle Laird\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where does sustainable seafood fit in?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are doing an ocean bar, serving sushi, sashimi, and oysters that Sachio oversees as well. It's all West Coast, Monterey Bay Watch-sanctioned seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We missed the herring run this season but we'll be serving herring next Spring. And we'll serve anchovies in season too; these are really the last of the commercial fisheries within the bay. People have to understand that their choices are becoming so limited with regards to fish. There are very few wild fish that are sustainable. So we'll be serving what people think of as bait and also serving whole fish. That starts a conversation in the U.S. because most people here are not used to seeing a whole fish or bait on a plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sea.grape_.keller.jpg\" alt=\"Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\" width=\"640\" height=\"478\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61995\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sea grapes add a salty kick to cocktails at the Exploratorium. Photo: Loretta Keller\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about seawater and its connection to the new space?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My partner Clay Reynolds wanted to serve filtered seawater to drink, but the technology isn't quite there. And then we wanted to run the dishwasher on seawater but it became clear that that was a whole project on its own. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/science/article/Exploratorium-sets-Net-Zero-energy-goal-4422432.php\">Exploratorium is using seawater to heat the building\u003c/a>, which is quite extraordinary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're using seawater in a cocktail. It turns out that the health department doesn't recognize seawater as a consumable, so we're not allowed to serve seawater per se. But there are kelps available that contain seawater, and there's a Monterey County kelp called sea grape, that we add to our signature martini, which tastes great with a little bit of seawater. So we're garnishing the drink with this kelp whose buds are full of seawater, when you burst them in your mouth you get a nice jolt of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're including seawater in other ways in the restaurant too. The multi-hued glass tiles are based on a museum exhibit called \"Color of Water.\" To create the piece, a fixed-position camera took time-lapse photos of the bay, the color variations are caused by sunlight, tides, and microorganisms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piece in the dining room called \"Thermal Mixing\" also demonstrates the dynamics of the bay: It's a triptych of panels of colored water of different temperatures that swirl like giant mood rings on the back wall. \"Icy Bodies\" is an exhibit where fragments of dry ice are pushed into a tank and spin around like comets across a sheet of water below a glass-topped bar. All these are nods to one of the most extraordinary places on the planet for moving water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What role does food play at the museum?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By and large, with few exceptions, the food served at museums in this country is like prison food, just terrible. All this money was being spent on creating the new Exploratorium, which is a gift to residents and visitors of San Francisco, and so it's critical that the food match the museum and its surroundings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First and foremost we want to serve healthy, well-prepared fresh food to the museum goers, that's our mandate. The challenge within that framework is to build in education, implicitly and explicitly, about sustainability. I get to be creative and think outside the box. We plan to do corn education tied to an exhibit and blind wine tastings at our adult nights. At the Exploratorium it's not about looking at stuff, it's about interacting with stuff. There's an intimacy here that provides a direct way to get to people's minds. And food has always been a great platform to reach people because it is so intimate and it's a necessity; people have to eat every day. There aren't that many mediums that offer that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The restaurant is open during regular museum hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5pm; Wednesday evenings until 10pm; every Thursday evening adults only (ages 18 and up) 6pm-10pm. It caters primarily to museum guests, but the public can access the restaurant from an exterior entrance.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/61936/exploratorium-elevates-museum-eating-experience","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2091","bayareabites_10964","bayareabites_11711","bayareabites_10332","bayareabites_10966","bayareabites_11712","bayareabites_11713","bayareabites_9491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_61996","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_57253":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_57253","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"57253","score":null,"sort":[1361494077000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled","title":"One In Three Fish Sold At Restaurants And Grocery Stores Is Mislabeled","publishDate":1361494077,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/21/172589997/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57265\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-fraud.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-fraud-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"Escolar, right, is often substituted for more expensive Albacore tuna (left), a report on mislabeled seafood found. Photo: Yoon S. Byun/Boston Globe via Getty Images\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57265\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Escolar, right, is often substituted for more expensive Albacore tuna (left), a report on mislabeled seafood found. Photo: Yoon S. Byun/Boston Globe via Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are so many fish in the sea. But from a diner's viewpoint, peering down at a sliver of white fish atop a bed of sushi rice, a lot of them look the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide\">report\u003c/a> from the ocean conservation group Oceana confirms that there's a pretty decent chance that fish on the plate or on ice in the seafood case is not what it's labeled to be. That means that seafood wallet cards designed by conservation groups to help steer consumers towards \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/171717418/the-meaning-of-sustainable-labeled-seafood\">sustainable\u003c/a> choices may not be doing much good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 2010 and 2012, Oceana took 1,215 seafood samples from 674 retail outlets in 21 states. When they tested the \u003ca href=\"http://barcoding.si.edu/dnabarcoding.htm\">DNA\u003c/a>, they found that 33 percent were mislabeled. Sushi vendors and grocery stores were the most likely outlets to sell mislabeled food, though Oceana says the fraud can happen before it reaches them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/12/11/166981454/seafood-sleuthing-reveals-pervasive-fish-fraud-in-new-york-city?ft=1&f=139941248\">investigations\u003c/a> by Oceana and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/2012/12/01/dnasidebar/maoPlTvCRdnKmzKdmhHxpO/story.html?p1=News_links\">Boston Globe\u003c/a> revealed that seafood mislabeling is common in cities like New York and Boston, where people eat a lot of fish. But the report out Thursday shows it's happening across the country, and is as bad or worse in places like Texas and Colorado. Some 49 percent of the retail outlets sampled in Austin and Houston sold mislabeled seafood, while 36 percent in Colorado did so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the big deal with fish sold under a pseudonym? Well, for one, it's often just a form of swindling – a cheap fish like tilapia sold as red snapper. But Oceana says the practice also can put consumers at health risk when species like king mackerel, which is high in mercury, or escolar, which contains a naturally occurring toxin than can cause gastrointestinal problems, are marketed as grouper and white tuna, respectively.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oceana's also concerned that substituting cheaper, easier-to-find fish for rarer, more valuable ones gives consumers a distorted sense of the market. Of the fish types most heavily sampled by Oceana, those sold as snapper and tuna had the highest mislabeling rates — 87 and 59 percent. Only seven of the 120 samples of red snapper purchased nationwide were actually red snapper, the report found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The majority of fraud is various fish standing in for snapper – it's used as catch-all name for all kinds of white fleshed fish,\" says Oceana senior scientist \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/en/about-us/people-partners/oceana-staff/kimberly-warner\">Kimberly Warner\u003c/a>. \"But there are real conservation concerns when you slip in things in place of the real thing. People think snapper must be doing great because it's everywhere, but it's overfished.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers using wallet cards from groups like the Monterey Bay Aquarium and NRDC could end up buying exactly the species they're trying to avoid, Warner says, because mislabeling is so prevalent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason mislabeling has gotten so rampant is that the U.S. now imports 90 percent of its seafood and less than 2 percent is inspected for fraud. That means would-be fraudsters have a lot new options for substitutions.The Food and Drug Administration regularly updates \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/GuidanceDocuments/Seafood/ucm313510.htm\">its list\u003c/a> of seafood approved for sale – in 2012 alone, 19 new species were added to the list, including cornetfish, sampa and claresse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the government or a consumer to do about all this? Oceana would like to see an international traceability system where retailers would be required to tell consumers where and when a fish was caught and what gear was used. Requirements like these would help the industry — one of the least transparent in the food system — more accountable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Fisheries Institute argues that the problem is one of enforcement — the FDA needs to do a better job of enforcing laws that are already on the books to discourage fraud. And they encourage consumers to seek out retailers through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutseafood.com/about/about-nfi/better-seafood-board\">Better Seafood Board\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Fish fraud is often just a form of swindling when a cheap fish, like tilapia, is sold as pricy red snapper. But a conservation group says it also puts consumers at risk of health issues and makes it harder to avoid buying fish that are being overfished.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1361494200,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":681},"headData":{"title":"One In Three Fish Sold At Restaurants And Grocery Stores Is Mislabeled | KQED","description":"Fish fraud is often just a form of swindling when a cheap fish, like tilapia, is sold as pricy red snapper. But a conservation group says it also puts consumers at risk of health issues and makes it harder to avoid buying fish that are being overfished.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"57253 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=57253","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/02/21/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled/","disqusTitle":"One In Three Fish Sold At Restaurants And Grocery Stores Is Mislabeled","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"172589997","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=172589997&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/21/172589997/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled?ft=3&f=172589997","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 21 Feb 2013 16:40:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 21 Feb 2013 15:05:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 21 Feb 2013 16:40:59 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/57253/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/21/172589997/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57265\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-fraud.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-fraud-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"Escolar, right, is often substituted for more expensive Albacore tuna (left), a report on mislabeled seafood found. Photo: Yoon S. Byun/Boston Globe via Getty Images\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57265\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Escolar, right, is often substituted for more expensive Albacore tuna (left), a report on mislabeled seafood found. Photo: Yoon S. Byun/Boston Globe via Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are so many fish in the sea. But from a diner's viewpoint, peering down at a sliver of white fish atop a bed of sushi rice, a lot of them look the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide\">report\u003c/a> from the ocean conservation group Oceana confirms that there's a pretty decent chance that fish on the plate or on ice in the seafood case is not what it's labeled to be. That means that seafood wallet cards designed by conservation groups to help steer consumers towards \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/171717418/the-meaning-of-sustainable-labeled-seafood\">sustainable\u003c/a> choices may not be doing much good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 2010 and 2012, Oceana took 1,215 seafood samples from 674 retail outlets in 21 states. When they tested the \u003ca href=\"http://barcoding.si.edu/dnabarcoding.htm\">DNA\u003c/a>, they found that 33 percent were mislabeled. Sushi vendors and grocery stores were the most likely outlets to sell mislabeled food, though Oceana says the fraud can happen before it reaches them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/12/11/166981454/seafood-sleuthing-reveals-pervasive-fish-fraud-in-new-york-city?ft=1&f=139941248\">investigations\u003c/a> by Oceana and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/2012/12/01/dnasidebar/maoPlTvCRdnKmzKdmhHxpO/story.html?p1=News_links\">Boston Globe\u003c/a> revealed that seafood mislabeling is common in cities like New York and Boston, where people eat a lot of fish. But the report out Thursday shows it's happening across the country, and is as bad or worse in places like Texas and Colorado. Some 49 percent of the retail outlets sampled in Austin and Houston sold mislabeled seafood, while 36 percent in Colorado did so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the big deal with fish sold under a pseudonym? Well, for one, it's often just a form of swindling – a cheap fish like tilapia sold as red snapper. But Oceana says the practice also can put consumers at health risk when species like king mackerel, which is high in mercury, or escolar, which contains a naturally occurring toxin than can cause gastrointestinal problems, are marketed as grouper and white tuna, respectively.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oceana's also concerned that substituting cheaper, easier-to-find fish for rarer, more valuable ones gives consumers a distorted sense of the market. Of the fish types most heavily sampled by Oceana, those sold as snapper and tuna had the highest mislabeling rates — 87 and 59 percent. Only seven of the 120 samples of red snapper purchased nationwide were actually red snapper, the report found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The majority of fraud is various fish standing in for snapper – it's used as catch-all name for all kinds of white fleshed fish,\" says Oceana senior scientist \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/en/about-us/people-partners/oceana-staff/kimberly-warner\">Kimberly Warner\u003c/a>. \"But there are real conservation concerns when you slip in things in place of the real thing. People think snapper must be doing great because it's everywhere, but it's overfished.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers using wallet cards from groups like the Monterey Bay Aquarium and NRDC could end up buying exactly the species they're trying to avoid, Warner says, because mislabeling is so prevalent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason mislabeling has gotten so rampant is that the U.S. now imports 90 percent of its seafood and less than 2 percent is inspected for fraud. That means would-be fraudsters have a lot new options for substitutions.The Food and Drug Administration regularly updates \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/GuidanceDocuments/Seafood/ucm313510.htm\">its list\u003c/a> of seafood approved for sale – in 2012 alone, 19 new species were added to the list, including cornetfish, sampa and claresse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's the government or a consumer to do about all this? Oceana would like to see an international traceability system where retailers would be required to tell consumers where and when a fish was caught and what gear was used. Requirements like these would help the industry — one of the least transparent in the food system — more accountable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Fisheries Institute argues that the problem is one of enforcement — the FDA needs to do a better job of enforcing laws that are already on the books to discourage fraud. And they encourage consumers to seek out retailers through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutseafood.com/about/about-nfi/better-seafood-board\">Better Seafood Board\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/57253/one-in-three-fish-sold-at-restaurants-and-grocery-stores-is-mislabeled","authors":["byline_bayareabites_57253"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2608","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_9392","bayareabites_11244","bayareabites_10443","bayareabites_11246","bayareabites_11245","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_9494","bayareabites_9491","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_57254","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_56680":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_56680","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"56680","score":null,"sort":[1360733130000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable","title":"Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable? ","publishDate":1360733130,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blue-shark.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blue-shark.jpg\" alt=\"Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark that was caught during a research trip in Nova Scotia. Scientists are studying the impact of swordfish fishing methods on the shark population. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"416\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56694\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark that was caught during a research trip in Nova Scotia. Scientists are studying the impact of swordfish fishing methods on the shark population. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to the Story on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171376509/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable\">All Things Considered:\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n[audio:http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/02/20130211_atc_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509 |titles=Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable?]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4173096/daniel-zwerdling\">Daniel Zwerdling\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/139449124/margot-williams\">Margot Williams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171376509/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable\">NPR Special Series\u003c/a> (2/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Part one of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/171717418/the-meaning-of-sustainable-labeled-seafood\">three-part series\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rebecca Weel pushes a baby stroller with her 18-month-old up to the seafood case at Whole Foods, near ground zero in New York. As she peers at shiny fillets of salmon, halibut and Chilean sea bass labeled \"certified sustainable,\" Weel believes that if she purchases this seafood, she will help protect the world's oceans from overfishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But some leading environmentalists have a different take: Consumers like Weel are being misled by a global program that amounts to \"greenwashing\" — a strategy that makes consumers think they are protecting the planet, when actually they are not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Whole Foods, the seafood counter displays blue labels from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/\">Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a> (MSC), an international, nonprofit organization. The MSC is a prime example of an economic trend: Private groups, not the government, are telling consumers what is good or bad for the environment. The MSC says its label guarantees that the wild seafood was caught using methods that do not deplete the natural supply. It also guarantees that fishing companies do not cause serious harm to other life in the sea, from coral to dolphins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is spreading fast throughout the food industry. Megachains like Target, Costco and Kroger are selling seafood with the MSC label. McDonald's says you are munching on \"certified sustainable\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=058E2W21Wl0\" target=\"_blank\">wild Alaskan pollock\u003c/a> every time you eat a Filet-O-Fish sandwich. The fast-food company has used MSC-certified fish since 2007 in the U.S., and as of February, they are putting the MSC logo on their fish sandwich boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56697\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 256px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-poll.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-poll.jpg\" alt=\"Poll results from a recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, by Truven Health Analytics. Questions were asked — in general — about sustainable seafood and labeling. Source: Truven Health Analytics-NPR Health Poll; margin of error +/- 1.8 percentage points Credit: Matt Stiles\" width=\"256\" height=\"643\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56697\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Poll results from a recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, by Truven Health Analytics. Questions were asked — in general — about sustainable seafood and labeling.\u003cbr>Source: Truven Health Analytics-NPR Health Poll; margin of error +/- 1.8 percentage points\u003cbr>Credit: Matt Stiles\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Consumers like Weel say the labels help them feel better about the products they buy. \"I want to feel that I'm doing the right thing,\" says Weel, a pediatrician, as her 4 1/2-year-old daughter bolts into the vegetable aisle in neon-colored boots. When Weel shops for seafood, she says, she wants to make choices \"that will help preserve the wild fish populations in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Executives at Whole Foods say they are helping consumers do exactly that, by pledging in recent years to sell as many MSC-certified products as possible. Seafood is the last major food that people catch in the wild, and \"we can't just go out and find more fish to catch,\" says Carrie Brownstein, global seafood quality standards coordinator for Whole Foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brownstein cites a \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/docrep/016/i2727e/i2727e00.htm\" target=\"_blank\">2012 United Nations report\u003c/a> that warned that almost 30 percent of the world's wild fisheries are \"overexploited,\" and more than 57 percent of wild fisheries are \"at or very close\" to the limit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other groups have devised ranking systems for seafood. The Monterey Bay Aquarium labels products like a traffic light — green, yellow or red — to urge shoppers to buy or avoid a particular fish. The Blue Ocean Institute has a similar system. The MSC reports it has labeled roughly 8 percent of the global seafood catch, worth more than $3 billion. That makes it the most widespread and best-known rating scheme around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, suggests that a majority of consumers want to feel good about the seafood they buy. The poll by Truven Health Analytics found that almost 80 percent of the people who eat seafood regularly said it is \"important\" or \"very important\" that their seafood is sustainably caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they buy MSC-labeled seafood, they may be paying a premium. Brownstein says Whole Foods charges more for some of its seafood labeled \"certified sustainable,\" although she wouldn't give numbers. Some fishing industry executives told NPR that they are getting roughly 10 percent more for their MSC-labeled products than for seafood that's not certified sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's one reason why many environmentalists who supported the MSC in the past say you might be troubled to know what the MSC and supermarkets like Whole Foods are not telling you:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We would prefer they didn't use the word \u003cem>sustainable\u003c/em>,\" says Gerry Leape, an oceans specialist at the Pew Environment Group, one of the major foundations working on oceans policies. Leape has supported the MSC for more than a decade as a member of its advisory Stakeholder Council.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he and other critics say that the MSC system has been certifying some fisheries despite evidence that the target fish are in trouble, or that the fishing industry is harming the environment. And critics say the MSC system has certified other fisheries as sustainable even though there is not enough evidence to know how they are affecting the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When a customer sees the MSC's sustainable label at the supermarket, \"the consumer looks at the fish and says, 'Oh, it has the label on it, it must be sustainable,' \" Leape says. \"And in some fisheries that the MSC has certified, that's not necessarily the case.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Biologist Susanna Fuller, co-director of marine programs at Canada's Ecology Action Centre, agrees. \"We know ... that blue stamp doesn't mean that you're sustainable,\" she says. When asked if consumers should choose MSC-labeled seafood, Fuller pauses. \"It's a gamble,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, even the MSC's sharpest critics say they support the broad ideas behind the organization and its stated goals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Originally I thought it was a good idea,\" says Jim Barnes, director of the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition, a network of dozens of environmental groups around the world. \"The world needed something like this to help steer consumer decisions, and so I wasn't against it at all at the beginning. And I'm not totally against it now.\" But Barnes worries that the MSC is straying from its mission and needs a dramatic overhaul. \"It can be a force for good. If it continues on the path that it's on, however, and doesn't solve a lot of these issues that have been raised,\" he says, \"I don't think it will be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Protecting The Oceans And The Bottom Line\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The MSC was born because of a crisis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Sutton, one of its founders, says that he and his colleagues dreamed up the idea after the cod industry collapsed off the Nova Scotia coast in 1992. Cod fishing had been the foundation of the region's economy and culture, worth an estimated $700 million each year. But when the cod population plunged to a fraction of previous levels, the Canadian government banned cod fishing — putting thousands of people out of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56699\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/ruperthowes-MSC.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/ruperthowes-MSC-290x217.jpg\" alt='Rupert Howes is CEO of the Marine Stewardship Council. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis,\" he tells NPR. Photo: Tim Lofthouse/Courtesy of the Marine Stewardship Council' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56699\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rupert Howes is CEO of the Marine Stewardship Council. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis,\" he tells NPR. Photo: Tim Lofthouse/Courtesy of the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It was so bad in some of these coastal communities, the government had to send in suicide-prevention teams,\" recalls Sutton, who was then vice president of the World Wildlife Fund. \"We were not only trashing our marine environment, but we were ruining the character of coastal communities that had existed on fisheries for centuries,\" Sutton says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sutton and other environmental advocates, and many scientists, warned that the cod collapse taught the world a sobering lesson: Government agencies that were supposed to monitor and regulate fishing were often doing a lousy job. Cod weren't the only fish in trouble. Studies showed that populations of major species like swordfish, marlin and tuna were plunging too. \"So we needed to do something drastic,\" Sutton says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He and colleagues decided to convince industry executives that protecting the oceans would also protect their bottom line. Sutton made a pilgrimage to the Unilever conglomerate, then one of the largest producers of frozen seafood — including fish sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My pitch to Unilever was, 'The future of their frozen fish business is at stake,' \" Sutton remembers. \"Overfishing is not only bad for the environment, but it's really bad for business, because it means that they're not going to have fish in the future the way they have them today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever and the World Wildlife Fund joined hands in 1997, and set up the MSC. Unilever eventually sold its seafood subsidiary and left the program, but the founding partner left its mark: From the day the MSC opened its doors in London, it has been a balancing act between industry and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the MSC has more than 100 employees worldwide, including about 60 at its headquarters in a renovated building down the street from St. Paul's Cathedral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"MSC has a global vision,\" says Rupert Howes, the organization's chief executive officer. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MSC's System Of Certification\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56701\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 218px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/swordfish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/swordfish-218x290.jpg\" alt=\"Swordfish from Canada are marked with a label from the Marine Stewardship Council at a Whole Foods in Washington, D.C. The MSC says its label means the fish were caught by a sustainable fishery, but critics says it's not always so clear. Photo: Margot Williams/NPR\" width=\"218\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56701\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swordfish from Canada are marked with a label from the Marine Stewardship Council at a Whole Foods in Washington, D.C. The MSC says its label means the fish were caught by a sustainable fishery, but critics says it's not always so clear. Photo: Margot Williams/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here's the MSC's basic idea: Executives of a growing number of food companies want to be \"green.\" Some genuinely want to protect the environment; others may be mainly seeking a marketing edge. But when it comes to seafood, those executives don't have the time or knowledge to figure out which fishing companies are plundering the ocean and which ones are doing a good job. So the MSC does the work for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The MSC does not certify fisheries itself. Instead, a fishery that wants the label hires one of roughly a dozen commercial auditing companies to decide whether its practices comply with the MSC's definition of \"sustainable.\" The MSC's standard for sustainability includes dozens of items, but they're designed to assess whether the population of a fishery's target species is healthy; if the fishing practices don't cause serious harm to other life in the sea — including by accidentally catching other animals, which is called bycatch; and if the fishery has good management. If the commercial auditors give the fishery a passing score, then the fishery gets the right to use the blue \"Certified Sustainable Seafood\" label. It can be a long and expensive process. Some certifications have taken years, and the fisheries have paid the auditing firms up to $150,000 or more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes says that when a store sells MSC-certified seafood, the label announces to consumers, \"We care where our fish comes from.\" He adds that as a growing number of food companies sell MSC-labeled seafood, executives of fisheries that don't have it are motivated to join the program. That catalyzes \"real and lasting change in the way the oceans are fished,\" Howe says.\u003cstrong> \u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the MSC's first decade, there wasn't much demand for sustainable seafood by the U.S. food industry, and the MSC \"almost went bankrupt,\" Sutton says. And that put the spotlight on the MSC's financial model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The way that executives structured it, MSC's budget comes partly from foundation grants. But some revenue comes from the licensing fees that MSC charges businesses for the right to sell seafood with the MSC label. So as long as many supermarket chains were not promoting it, the MSC wasn't getting much money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in 2006, everything changed. The MSC and its supporters had sent a series of delegations to Bentonville, Ark., world headquarters of Wal-Mart. The delegations helped convince Wal-Mart executives to promise that all the seafood they sell in the U.S. would be MSC-certified by 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had to get Wal-Mart,\" Sutton says. \"The significance of their commitment, of course, is that once Wal-Mart made a commitment to the Marine Stewardship Council, every other major retailer had to follow suit, because none of them wanted to be less progressive than Wal-Mart.\" Sure enough, other discount chains promised to go sustainable, too. \"Overnight, the demand far outstripped the supply,\" says Sutton, \"and so the suppliers had to catch up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Wal-Mart made its pledge in 2006, the MSC system has certified seven times as many fisheries as it did during the same period before, according to NPR's analysis. Still, the MSC system has not been able to certify enough seafood for Wal-Mart to meet its 2012 deadline, according to Bob Fields, a senior buyer for Wal-Mart and Sam's Club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The explosion in sales of MSC-labeled products at leading chain stores has transformed the organization's finances. The year that Wal-Mart pledged to promote MSC-labeled seafood, the MSC received most of its income from foundation grants — 75 percent, according to the MSC annual report. Meanwhile, it received only 7 percent of its income from label licensing fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, those licensing fees generate more than half of the MSC's revenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And since Wal-Mart executives embraced sustainable seafood, the MSC has also received millions of dollars in grant money from the Walton Family Foundation, which was created by Wal-Mart's founder and is governed by his descendants. The Walton Family Foundation has become one of the MSC's largest donors, according to financial reports. The director of the foundation's environment programs, Scott Burns, served on the MSC's board of directors before he went to Walton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56698\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fisheries-certifications.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fisheries-certifications.jpg\" alt=\" Source: Marine Stewardship Council documents, NPR research Credit: Matt Stiles, Margot Williams\" width=\"800\" height=\"352\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56698\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: Marine Stewardship Council documents, NPR research\u003cbr>Credit: Matt Stiles, Margot Williams\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Critics say that the day Wal-Mart embraced sustainable seafood, it was a blessing for the MSC system — and a curse. The critics charge that the MSC system has compromised its standards to keep up with the booming demand from Wal-Mart and other chains that followed suit. Fuller, of the Ecology Action Centre, says she has watched the MSC system \"struggling with meeting the demands of the system that they helped create ... They have ended up having to lower the bar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When ocean specialist Daniel Pauly, a fisheries professor at the University of British Columbia, talks about the MSC today, he sounds dispirited. Pauly took part in early meetings in London that helped create the MSC and now says he has lost faith in the system. \"The MSC is doing the business of the business community,\" Pauly says, not the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-bottom.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-bottom.jpg\" alt=\"Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark caught off the coast of Nova Scotia during a research outing. Studies show that 35 percent of sharks caught by swordfish boats die either on the hook or within days of release. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"416\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56695\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark caught off the coast of Nova Scotia during a research outing. Studies show that 35 percent of sharks caught by swordfish boats die either on the hook or within days of release. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Balancing 'Sustainable' Swordfish With At-Risk Sharks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Some environmentalists and scientists say if you want to understand why they're losing faith in the MSC, look at the battle over certifying Canadian swordfish. Next time you buy swordfish at a store like Whole Foods, it might come from a controversial fishery off the coast of Nova Scotia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fishermen have known for ages that when they go swordfishing in some parts of the Atlantic, they will accidentally catch sharks — lots of sharks, says Steve Campana, who runs the Canadian government's Shark Research Laboratory, near Halifax, Nova Scotia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56700\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/stevecampana-CSRL.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/stevecampana-CSRL-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Steve Campana runs the Canadian Shark Research Laboratory. He works to tag sharks with satellite transmitters to find out how long they survive after being caught and released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Campana runs the Canadian Shark Research Laboratory. He works to tag sharks with satellite transmitters to find out how long they survive after being caught and released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When NPR caught up with Campana one morning, he and his research crew were heading into the Atlantic on a 34-foot trawler, the Dig It. They were planning to attach sophisticated satellite transmitters to blue sharks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"On average, from what we've seen over the years, the swordfishermen catch about five blue sharks for every one swordfish,\" Campana said, holding onto a metal strut as the Dig It bounced through the waves. Add it up, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinebiodiversity.ca/shark/english/document/campana%20et%20al%202011%20shark%20discard%20Res%20Doc.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">studies suggest\u003c/a>, and Canada's long-line swordfish boats — so named because they typically let out 30 or 40 miles of fishing line, dangling more than 1,000 hooks — accidentally catch tens of thousands of sharks every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This touches on one of MSC's three fundamental rules, even though studies show swordfish are plentiful. The second rule says that a fishery is not sustainable if it does not maintain \"the integrity of ecosystems\" — which means, in part, that it's not sustainable if there is too much bycatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada, which is funded and appointed by the Canadian government, has warned that the main kinds of sharks that swordfishermen accidentally catch are \"threatened\" or \"endangered\" or \"of special concern.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swordfishermen generally release the sharks. But there had been few studies on what happens to those sharks after fishermen let them off the hooks — until Campana and his colleagues came along. About six years ago, they started tagging sharks with satellite transmitters before fishermen set them free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-satellite.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-satellite.jpg\" alt=\"Shark charter operator Art Gaeten (right) and recreational shark fisherman Shawn Knowles struggle to hold a blue shark in position while shark biologist Anna Dorey attaches a satellite tag to its back. Researchers say about five blue sharks are caught for every one swordfish. Scientists are trying to determine what happens to the sharks after they are released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56696\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shark charter operator Art Gaeten (right) and recreational shark fisherman Shawn Knowles struggle to hold a blue shark in position while shark biologist Anna Dorey attaches a satellite tag to its back. Researchers say about five blue sharks are caught for every one swordfish. Scientists are trying to determine what happens to the sharks after they are released.\u003cbr> Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During one outing, the crew showed how they do it: They snagged a 5-foot blue shark on a hook baited with mackerel, reeled it in, and then pinned the thrashing shark against the boat's broad, flat railing. They jabbed a satellite transmitter, which looks like a turkey baster with a barb on one end, into the shark's leathery skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then they let the shark go, the transmitter protruding like an unsightly growth. The device is equipped with a computer chip that records data every 10 seconds, including where the shark goes, how deep it goes, and how long it stays there. After about 10 months, the tube pops off the shark and floats to the surface, beaming all the information via satellite to Campana. When the transmitter shows that a shark went to the deepest part of the sea and just stayed there, Campana knows when and where the shark died.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Campana and his colleagues published some of their first findings based on these studies in July 2009, in the journal \u003cem>Marine Ecology Progress Series.\u003c/em> Their studies showed that up to 35 percent of the sharks caught by swordfish boats die, either right on the hook or within days after the fishermen set them free. The \u003ca href=\"http://dev.atlanticsharks.biology.dal.ca/papers/campana%20et%20al%202009.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">findings\u003c/a> suggested that Canadian swordfish boats accidentally kill almost two sharks for every swordfish they catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Campana says that when you put these findings in context, it is troubling. Other studies suggest that the populations of major kinds of sharks in the North Atlantic have plunged as much as 40 to 60 percent in just the past few decades. \"Any time you see consistent declines like that, and the fact that all of these large sharks seem to have declined all over the world,\" Campana says, \"it's just a worrisome pattern.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The president of Canada's swordfish industry, the Nova Scotia Swordsfishermen's Association, dismisses Campana's conclusions. Campana's report on shark deaths could not have come at a worse time for Canada's swordfish industry. Only months before the report was published, the association, which catches most of Canada's commercial swordfish, had applied to the MSC for certification. The industry sells much of its swordfish to Whole Foods and other stores in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those conclusions \"were not close to what the industry felt was reality,\" Troy Atkinson, president of the association, says while sitting in his store, crammed with giant spools of plastic fishing line and boxes of heavy metal hooks. He runs the main business that supplies equipment to Canada's swordfishing fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're sometimes portrayed as a bunch of cowboys out to harvest the last buffalo,\" he says. \"We're portrayed as some of the worst in the world. And it's just not correct.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Atkinson cites reports by other researchers that conclude that the population of blue sharks off the coast of Canada is healthy – especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.iccat.es/Documents/Meetings/Docs/SCRC2011-Report-ENG.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">reports\u003c/a> by the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT), which represents dozens of governments whose nations fish the Atlantic. So, Atkinson says, Canada's swordfishermen could catch and kill even more sharks without hurting the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other studies suggest the evidence is contradictory, and that scientists don't know for sure what is happening to sharks across the Atlantic. For example, the optimistic ICCAT researchers whom Atkinson cites acknowledge that their conclusions are \"highly uncertain\" because they're based on unproven assumptions and incomplete data. However, studies showing that blue sharks have sharply declined focus on a limited region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So scientists and environmentalists were dumbfounded in early 2012 when the MSC system decided that Canada's swordfish industry can use the label \"Certified Sustainable Seafood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That is absolutely the kind of fishery that should not be certified,\" says Leape of Pew Environment Group. \"That fishery is outrageous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Certifying Canadian swordfish \"is the worst thing they can do, says Fuller, of the Ecology Action Centre. \"That is not at all the way it should go.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Program Based On 'Science And Evidence'\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ecology Action Centre and dozens of other environmental groups denounced the MSC. The groups said in a letter to the MSC system that roughly 10 percent of Canada's swordfish are caught with harpoons — a method environmentalists support because there is hardly any bycatch. But the long-line boats that supply most of the swordfish catch a \"staggering\" number of sharks, as the environmentalists put it. \"Certifying [Canada's long-line swordfish boats] compromises the credibility of the MSC,\" the groups warned, \"and the sustainable seafood movement as a whole.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes, from the MSC, disagrees. He says the controversy over Canadian swordfish \"illustrates a key feature of the MSC program, which is the fact that the program is premised on science and evidence. That fishery has met the MSC standard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The analysts who evaluated the fishery for the MSC system agreed that the swordfish boats do kill large numbers of sharks. They acknowledged that the optimistic studies on sharks that the swordfish industry cites are uncertain, but they concluded that the weight of evidence suggests it is \"highly likely\" there are plenty of blue sharks left in the sea. The analysts also stressed that, by all accounts, other countries kill far more sharks than Canada's swordfishermen do. So, they said, Canada causes only a small part of the bycatch problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are not saying that shark bycatch doesn't matter,\" says Howes. \"What we're saying implicit within the labeling of that fishery is, the shark bycatch of that unique individual certified fishery is safe. It's within ecological limits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnes, of the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition, says the controversy over Canadian swordfish illustrates why the booming demand for sustainable seafood actually threatens to hurt the movement more than help it. \"The bottom line is that there are not enough truly sustainable fisheries on the earth to sustain the demand,\" Barnes says. \"The retailers and wholesalers all want access to this kind of label because they're trying to ... make money with their consumers. There's nothing wrong with that; that's how the world works.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Barnes charges that the MSC is labeling some fisheries as sustainable — even when they are not — partly to fill the seafood counters at Wal-Mart and other large chains. \"I'm not down on Wal-Mart at all, don't get me wrong,\" he says. \"But to get on line with big chains as your goal leads you down a path that I don't think the originators of the MSC intended.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes could hardly disagree more. \"If you really want to contribute to the transformation of our economic systems more generally, you've got to engage with the big guys. And therefore, I absolutely welcome Wal-Mart's commitment,\" he says. \"That will drive change.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes continues: \"Will that overload the MSC system? No.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He argues that there's no way the MSC could label problem fisheries sustainable just to satisfy demand, because, he says, the certifiers evaluate each fishery based only on scientific evidence. But he adds, \"We want to see oceans fished sustainably forever. We're not going to achieve that by becoming a small niche organization that engages with a handful of perfect fisheries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Researcher Barbara Van Woerkom contributed to this story.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Web Resources\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Additional studies and information on sustainable fishing and labeling.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/\">The Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://oceanrep.geomar.de/14215/\">Evaluation And Legal Assessment Of Certified Seafood\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0043765\">Reliable Information on Fish Stock Health to Seafood Consumers\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://scientiamarina.revistas.csic.es/index.php/scientiamarina/article/viewArticle/1055\">Beyond Duplicity And Ignorance In Global Fisheries\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fni.no/publ/marine.html#msc\">The Emergence and Effectiveness of the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Industry demand for the \"sustainable seafood\" label, issued by the Marine Stewardship Council, is increasing. But some environmentalists fear fisheries are being certified despite evidence showing that the fish population is in trouble — or when there's not enough information to know the impact on the oceans.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1360733130,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":79,"wordCount":4271},"headData":{"title":"Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable? | KQED","description":"Industry demand for the "sustainable seafood" label, issued by the Marine Stewardship Council, is increasing. But some environmentalists fear fisheries are being certified despite evidence showing that the fish population is in trouble — or when there's not enough information to know the impact on the oceans.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"56680 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=56680","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/02/12/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable/","disqusTitle":"Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable? ","nprByline":"Margot Williams","nprStoryId":"171376509","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=171376509&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171376509/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable?ft=3&f=171376509","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:50:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:00:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:50:16 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/02/20130211_atc_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1171737543-e7c752.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509","path":"/bayareabites/56680/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/02/20130211_atc_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blue-shark.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blue-shark.jpg\" alt=\"Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark that was caught during a research trip in Nova Scotia. Scientists are studying the impact of swordfish fishing methods on the shark population. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"416\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56694\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark that was caught during a research trip in Nova Scotia. Scientists are studying the impact of swordfish fishing methods on the shark population. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to the Story on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171376509/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable\">All Things Considered:\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"label":":http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/02/20130211_atc_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509 |titles=Is Sustainable-Labeled Seafood Really Sustainable?"},"numeric":[":http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/02/20130211_atc_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1150&aggIds=171717418&ft=3&f=171376509","|titles=Is","Sustainable-Labeled","Seafood","Really","Sustainable?"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4173096/daniel-zwerdling\">Daniel Zwerdling\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/139449124/margot-williams\">Margot Williams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/11/171376509/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable\">NPR Special Series\u003c/a> (2/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Part one of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/171717418/the-meaning-of-sustainable-labeled-seafood\">three-part series\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rebecca Weel pushes a baby stroller with her 18-month-old up to the seafood case at Whole Foods, near ground zero in New York. As she peers at shiny fillets of salmon, halibut and Chilean sea bass labeled \"certified sustainable,\" Weel believes that if she purchases this seafood, she will help protect the world's oceans from overfishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But some leading environmentalists have a different take: Consumers like Weel are being misled by a global program that amounts to \"greenwashing\" — a strategy that makes consumers think they are protecting the planet, when actually they are not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Whole Foods, the seafood counter displays blue labels from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/\">Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a> (MSC), an international, nonprofit organization. The MSC is a prime example of an economic trend: Private groups, not the government, are telling consumers what is good or bad for the environment. The MSC says its label guarantees that the wild seafood was caught using methods that do not deplete the natural supply. It also guarantees that fishing companies do not cause serious harm to other life in the sea, from coral to dolphins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is spreading fast throughout the food industry. Megachains like Target, Costco and Kroger are selling seafood with the MSC label. McDonald's says you are munching on \"certified sustainable\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=058E2W21Wl0\" target=\"_blank\">wild Alaskan pollock\u003c/a> every time you eat a Filet-O-Fish sandwich. The fast-food company has used MSC-certified fish since 2007 in the U.S., and as of February, they are putting the MSC logo on their fish sandwich boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56697\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 256px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-poll.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fish-poll.jpg\" alt=\"Poll results from a recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, by Truven Health Analytics. Questions were asked — in general — about sustainable seafood and labeling. Source: Truven Health Analytics-NPR Health Poll; margin of error +/- 1.8 percentage points Credit: Matt Stiles\" width=\"256\" height=\"643\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56697\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Poll results from a recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, by Truven Health Analytics. Questions were asked — in general — about sustainable seafood and labeling.\u003cbr>Source: Truven Health Analytics-NPR Health Poll; margin of error +/- 1.8 percentage points\u003cbr>Credit: Matt Stiles\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Consumers like Weel say the labels help them feel better about the products they buy. \"I want to feel that I'm doing the right thing,\" says Weel, a pediatrician, as her 4 1/2-year-old daughter bolts into the vegetable aisle in neon-colored boots. When Weel shops for seafood, she says, she wants to make choices \"that will help preserve the wild fish populations in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Executives at Whole Foods say they are helping consumers do exactly that, by pledging in recent years to sell as many MSC-certified products as possible. Seafood is the last major food that people catch in the wild, and \"we can't just go out and find more fish to catch,\" says Carrie Brownstein, global seafood quality standards coordinator for Whole Foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brownstein cites a \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/docrep/016/i2727e/i2727e00.htm\" target=\"_blank\">2012 United Nations report\u003c/a> that warned that almost 30 percent of the world's wild fisheries are \"overexploited,\" and more than 57 percent of wild fisheries are \"at or very close\" to the limit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other groups have devised ranking systems for seafood. The Monterey Bay Aquarium labels products like a traffic light — green, yellow or red — to urge shoppers to buy or avoid a particular fish. The Blue Ocean Institute has a similar system. The MSC reports it has labeled roughly 8 percent of the global seafood catch, worth more than $3 billion. That makes it the most widespread and best-known rating scheme around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent survey of 3,000 Americans, conducted on behalf of NPR, suggests that a majority of consumers want to feel good about the seafood they buy. The poll by Truven Health Analytics found that almost 80 percent of the people who eat seafood regularly said it is \"important\" or \"very important\" that their seafood is sustainably caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they buy MSC-labeled seafood, they may be paying a premium. Brownstein says Whole Foods charges more for some of its seafood labeled \"certified sustainable,\" although she wouldn't give numbers. Some fishing industry executives told NPR that they are getting roughly 10 percent more for their MSC-labeled products than for seafood that's not certified sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's one reason why many environmentalists who supported the MSC in the past say you might be troubled to know what the MSC and supermarkets like Whole Foods are not telling you:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We would prefer they didn't use the word \u003cem>sustainable\u003c/em>,\" says Gerry Leape, an oceans specialist at the Pew Environment Group, one of the major foundations working on oceans policies. Leape has supported the MSC for more than a decade as a member of its advisory Stakeholder Council.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he and other critics say that the MSC system has been certifying some fisheries despite evidence that the target fish are in trouble, or that the fishing industry is harming the environment. And critics say the MSC system has certified other fisheries as sustainable even though there is not enough evidence to know how they are affecting the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When a customer sees the MSC's sustainable label at the supermarket, \"the consumer looks at the fish and says, 'Oh, it has the label on it, it must be sustainable,' \" Leape says. \"And in some fisheries that the MSC has certified, that's not necessarily the case.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Biologist Susanna Fuller, co-director of marine programs at Canada's Ecology Action Centre, agrees. \"We know ... that blue stamp doesn't mean that you're sustainable,\" she says. When asked if consumers should choose MSC-labeled seafood, Fuller pauses. \"It's a gamble,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, even the MSC's sharpest critics say they support the broad ideas behind the organization and its stated goals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Originally I thought it was a good idea,\" says Jim Barnes, director of the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition, a network of dozens of environmental groups around the world. \"The world needed something like this to help steer consumer decisions, and so I wasn't against it at all at the beginning. And I'm not totally against it now.\" But Barnes worries that the MSC is straying from its mission and needs a dramatic overhaul. \"It can be a force for good. If it continues on the path that it's on, however, and doesn't solve a lot of these issues that have been raised,\" he says, \"I don't think it will be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Protecting The Oceans And The Bottom Line\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The MSC was born because of a crisis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Sutton, one of its founders, says that he and his colleagues dreamed up the idea after the cod industry collapsed off the Nova Scotia coast in 1992. Cod fishing had been the foundation of the region's economy and culture, worth an estimated $700 million each year. But when the cod population plunged to a fraction of previous levels, the Canadian government banned cod fishing — putting thousands of people out of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56699\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/ruperthowes-MSC.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/ruperthowes-MSC-290x217.jpg\" alt='Rupert Howes is CEO of the Marine Stewardship Council. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis,\" he tells NPR. Photo: Tim Lofthouse/Courtesy of the Marine Stewardship Council' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56699\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rupert Howes is CEO of the Marine Stewardship Council. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis,\" he tells NPR. Photo: Tim Lofthouse/Courtesy of the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It was so bad in some of these coastal communities, the government had to send in suicide-prevention teams,\" recalls Sutton, who was then vice president of the World Wildlife Fund. \"We were not only trashing our marine environment, but we were ruining the character of coastal communities that had existed on fisheries for centuries,\" Sutton says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sutton and other environmental advocates, and many scientists, warned that the cod collapse taught the world a sobering lesson: Government agencies that were supposed to monitor and regulate fishing were often doing a lousy job. Cod weren't the only fish in trouble. Studies showed that populations of major species like swordfish, marlin and tuna were plunging too. \"So we needed to do something drastic,\" Sutton says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He and colleagues decided to convince industry executives that protecting the oceans would also protect their bottom line. Sutton made a pilgrimage to the Unilever conglomerate, then one of the largest producers of frozen seafood — including fish sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My pitch to Unilever was, 'The future of their frozen fish business is at stake,' \" Sutton remembers. \"Overfishing is not only bad for the environment, but it's really bad for business, because it means that they're not going to have fish in the future the way they have them today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever and the World Wildlife Fund joined hands in 1997, and set up the MSC. Unilever eventually sold its seafood subsidiary and left the program, but the founding partner left its mark: From the day the MSC opened its doors in London, it has been a balancing act between industry and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the MSC has more than 100 employees worldwide, including about 60 at its headquarters in a renovated building down the street from St. Paul's Cathedral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"MSC has a global vision,\" says Rupert Howes, the organization's chief executive officer. \"We want to see the global oceans transformed onto a sustainable basis.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MSC's System Of Certification\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56701\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 218px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/swordfish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/swordfish-218x290.jpg\" alt=\"Swordfish from Canada are marked with a label from the Marine Stewardship Council at a Whole Foods in Washington, D.C. The MSC says its label means the fish were caught by a sustainable fishery, but critics says it's not always so clear. Photo: Margot Williams/NPR\" width=\"218\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56701\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swordfish from Canada are marked with a label from the Marine Stewardship Council at a Whole Foods in Washington, D.C. The MSC says its label means the fish were caught by a sustainable fishery, but critics says it's not always so clear. Photo: Margot Williams/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here's the MSC's basic idea: Executives of a growing number of food companies want to be \"green.\" Some genuinely want to protect the environment; others may be mainly seeking a marketing edge. But when it comes to seafood, those executives don't have the time or knowledge to figure out which fishing companies are plundering the ocean and which ones are doing a good job. So the MSC does the work for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The MSC does not certify fisheries itself. Instead, a fishery that wants the label hires one of roughly a dozen commercial auditing companies to decide whether its practices comply with the MSC's definition of \"sustainable.\" The MSC's standard for sustainability includes dozens of items, but they're designed to assess whether the population of a fishery's target species is healthy; if the fishing practices don't cause serious harm to other life in the sea — including by accidentally catching other animals, which is called bycatch; and if the fishery has good management. If the commercial auditors give the fishery a passing score, then the fishery gets the right to use the blue \"Certified Sustainable Seafood\" label. It can be a long and expensive process. Some certifications have taken years, and the fisheries have paid the auditing firms up to $150,000 or more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes says that when a store sells MSC-certified seafood, the label announces to consumers, \"We care where our fish comes from.\" He adds that as a growing number of food companies sell MSC-labeled seafood, executives of fisheries that don't have it are motivated to join the program. That catalyzes \"real and lasting change in the way the oceans are fished,\" Howe says.\u003cstrong> \u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the MSC's first decade, there wasn't much demand for sustainable seafood by the U.S. food industry, and the MSC \"almost went bankrupt,\" Sutton says. And that put the spotlight on the MSC's financial model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The way that executives structured it, MSC's budget comes partly from foundation grants. But some revenue comes from the licensing fees that MSC charges businesses for the right to sell seafood with the MSC label. So as long as many supermarket chains were not promoting it, the MSC wasn't getting much money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in 2006, everything changed. The MSC and its supporters had sent a series of delegations to Bentonville, Ark., world headquarters of Wal-Mart. The delegations helped convince Wal-Mart executives to promise that all the seafood they sell in the U.S. would be MSC-certified by 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had to get Wal-Mart,\" Sutton says. \"The significance of their commitment, of course, is that once Wal-Mart made a commitment to the Marine Stewardship Council, every other major retailer had to follow suit, because none of them wanted to be less progressive than Wal-Mart.\" Sure enough, other discount chains promised to go sustainable, too. \"Overnight, the demand far outstripped the supply,\" says Sutton, \"and so the suppliers had to catch up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Wal-Mart made its pledge in 2006, the MSC system has certified seven times as many fisheries as it did during the same period before, according to NPR's analysis. Still, the MSC system has not been able to certify enough seafood for Wal-Mart to meet its 2012 deadline, according to Bob Fields, a senior buyer for Wal-Mart and Sam's Club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The explosion in sales of MSC-labeled products at leading chain stores has transformed the organization's finances. The year that Wal-Mart pledged to promote MSC-labeled seafood, the MSC received most of its income from foundation grants — 75 percent, according to the MSC annual report. Meanwhile, it received only 7 percent of its income from label licensing fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, those licensing fees generate more than half of the MSC's revenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And since Wal-Mart executives embraced sustainable seafood, the MSC has also received millions of dollars in grant money from the Walton Family Foundation, which was created by Wal-Mart's founder and is governed by his descendants. The Walton Family Foundation has become one of the MSC's largest donors, according to financial reports. The director of the foundation's environment programs, Scott Burns, served on the MSC's board of directors before he went to Walton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56698\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fisheries-certifications.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/fisheries-certifications.jpg\" alt=\" Source: Marine Stewardship Council documents, NPR research Credit: Matt Stiles, Margot Williams\" width=\"800\" height=\"352\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56698\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: Marine Stewardship Council documents, NPR research\u003cbr>Credit: Matt Stiles, Margot Williams\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Critics say that the day Wal-Mart embraced sustainable seafood, it was a blessing for the MSC system — and a curse. The critics charge that the MSC system has compromised its standards to keep up with the booming demand from Wal-Mart and other chains that followed suit. Fuller, of the Ecology Action Centre, says she has watched the MSC system \"struggling with meeting the demands of the system that they helped create ... They have ended up having to lower the bar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When ocean specialist Daniel Pauly, a fisheries professor at the University of British Columbia, talks about the MSC today, he sounds dispirited. Pauly took part in early meetings in London that helped create the MSC and now says he has lost faith in the system. \"The MSC is doing the business of the business community,\" Pauly says, not the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-bottom.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-bottom.jpg\" alt=\"Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark caught off the coast of Nova Scotia during a research outing. Studies show that 35 percent of sharks caught by swordfish boats die either on the hook or within days of release. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"416\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56695\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Capt. Art Gaeten holds a blue shark caught off the coast of Nova Scotia during a research outing. Studies show that 35 percent of sharks caught by swordfish boats die either on the hook or within days of release. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Balancing 'Sustainable' Swordfish With At-Risk Sharks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Some environmentalists and scientists say if you want to understand why they're losing faith in the MSC, look at the battle over certifying Canadian swordfish. Next time you buy swordfish at a store like Whole Foods, it might come from a controversial fishery off the coast of Nova Scotia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fishermen have known for ages that when they go swordfishing in some parts of the Atlantic, they will accidentally catch sharks — lots of sharks, says Steve Campana, who runs the Canadian government's Shark Research Laboratory, near Halifax, Nova Scotia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56700\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/stevecampana-CSRL.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/stevecampana-CSRL-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Steve Campana runs the Canadian Shark Research Laboratory. He works to tag sharks with satellite transmitters to find out how long they survive after being caught and released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-56700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Campana runs the Canadian Shark Research Laboratory. He works to tag sharks with satellite transmitters to find out how long they survive after being caught and released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When NPR caught up with Campana one morning, he and his research crew were heading into the Atlantic on a 34-foot trawler, the Dig It. They were planning to attach sophisticated satellite transmitters to blue sharks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"On average, from what we've seen over the years, the swordfishermen catch about five blue sharks for every one swordfish,\" Campana said, holding onto a metal strut as the Dig It bounced through the waves. Add it up, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinebiodiversity.ca/shark/english/document/campana%20et%20al%202011%20shark%20discard%20Res%20Doc.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">studies suggest\u003c/a>, and Canada's long-line swordfish boats — so named because they typically let out 30 or 40 miles of fishing line, dangling more than 1,000 hooks — accidentally catch tens of thousands of sharks every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This touches on one of MSC's three fundamental rules, even though studies show swordfish are plentiful. The second rule says that a fishery is not sustainable if it does not maintain \"the integrity of ecosystems\" — which means, in part, that it's not sustainable if there is too much bycatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada, which is funded and appointed by the Canadian government, has warned that the main kinds of sharks that swordfishermen accidentally catch are \"threatened\" or \"endangered\" or \"of special concern.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swordfishermen generally release the sharks. But there had been few studies on what happens to those sharks after fishermen let them off the hooks — until Campana and his colleagues came along. About six years ago, they started tagging sharks with satellite transmitters before fishermen set them free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-satellite.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/blueshark-satellite.jpg\" alt=\"Shark charter operator Art Gaeten (right) and recreational shark fisherman Shawn Knowles struggle to hold a blue shark in position while shark biologist Anna Dorey attaches a satellite tag to its back. Researchers say about five blue sharks are caught for every one swordfish. Scientists are trying to determine what happens to the sharks after they are released. Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56696\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shark charter operator Art Gaeten (right) and recreational shark fisherman Shawn Knowles struggle to hold a blue shark in position while shark biologist Anna Dorey attaches a satellite tag to its back. Researchers say about five blue sharks are caught for every one swordfish. Scientists are trying to determine what happens to the sharks after they are released.\u003cbr> Photo: Dean Casavechia for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During one outing, the crew showed how they do it: They snagged a 5-foot blue shark on a hook baited with mackerel, reeled it in, and then pinned the thrashing shark against the boat's broad, flat railing. They jabbed a satellite transmitter, which looks like a turkey baster with a barb on one end, into the shark's leathery skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then they let the shark go, the transmitter protruding like an unsightly growth. The device is equipped with a computer chip that records data every 10 seconds, including where the shark goes, how deep it goes, and how long it stays there. After about 10 months, the tube pops off the shark and floats to the surface, beaming all the information via satellite to Campana. When the transmitter shows that a shark went to the deepest part of the sea and just stayed there, Campana knows when and where the shark died.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Campana and his colleagues published some of their first findings based on these studies in July 2009, in the journal \u003cem>Marine Ecology Progress Series.\u003c/em> Their studies showed that up to 35 percent of the sharks caught by swordfish boats die, either right on the hook or within days after the fishermen set them free. The \u003ca href=\"http://dev.atlanticsharks.biology.dal.ca/papers/campana%20et%20al%202009.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">findings\u003c/a> suggested that Canadian swordfish boats accidentally kill almost two sharks for every swordfish they catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Campana says that when you put these findings in context, it is troubling. Other studies suggest that the populations of major kinds of sharks in the North Atlantic have plunged as much as 40 to 60 percent in just the past few decades. \"Any time you see consistent declines like that, and the fact that all of these large sharks seem to have declined all over the world,\" Campana says, \"it's just a worrisome pattern.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The president of Canada's swordfish industry, the Nova Scotia Swordsfishermen's Association, dismisses Campana's conclusions. Campana's report on shark deaths could not have come at a worse time for Canada's swordfish industry. Only months before the report was published, the association, which catches most of Canada's commercial swordfish, had applied to the MSC for certification. The industry sells much of its swordfish to Whole Foods and other stores in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those conclusions \"were not close to what the industry felt was reality,\" Troy Atkinson, president of the association, says while sitting in his store, crammed with giant spools of plastic fishing line and boxes of heavy metal hooks. He runs the main business that supplies equipment to Canada's swordfishing fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're sometimes portrayed as a bunch of cowboys out to harvest the last buffalo,\" he says. \"We're portrayed as some of the worst in the world. And it's just not correct.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Atkinson cites reports by other researchers that conclude that the population of blue sharks off the coast of Canada is healthy – especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.iccat.es/Documents/Meetings/Docs/SCRC2011-Report-ENG.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">reports\u003c/a> by the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT), which represents dozens of governments whose nations fish the Atlantic. So, Atkinson says, Canada's swordfishermen could catch and kill even more sharks without hurting the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other studies suggest the evidence is contradictory, and that scientists don't know for sure what is happening to sharks across the Atlantic. For example, the optimistic ICCAT researchers whom Atkinson cites acknowledge that their conclusions are \"highly uncertain\" because they're based on unproven assumptions and incomplete data. However, studies showing that blue sharks have sharply declined focus on a limited region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So scientists and environmentalists were dumbfounded in early 2012 when the MSC system decided that Canada's swordfish industry can use the label \"Certified Sustainable Seafood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That is absolutely the kind of fishery that should not be certified,\" says Leape of Pew Environment Group. \"That fishery is outrageous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Certifying Canadian swordfish \"is the worst thing they can do, says Fuller, of the Ecology Action Centre. \"That is not at all the way it should go.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Program Based On 'Science And Evidence'\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ecology Action Centre and dozens of other environmental groups denounced the MSC. The groups said in a letter to the MSC system that roughly 10 percent of Canada's swordfish are caught with harpoons — a method environmentalists support because there is hardly any bycatch. But the long-line boats that supply most of the swordfish catch a \"staggering\" number of sharks, as the environmentalists put it. \"Certifying [Canada's long-line swordfish boats] compromises the credibility of the MSC,\" the groups warned, \"and the sustainable seafood movement as a whole.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes, from the MSC, disagrees. He says the controversy over Canadian swordfish \"illustrates a key feature of the MSC program, which is the fact that the program is premised on science and evidence. That fishery has met the MSC standard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The analysts who evaluated the fishery for the MSC system agreed that the swordfish boats do kill large numbers of sharks. They acknowledged that the optimistic studies on sharks that the swordfish industry cites are uncertain, but they concluded that the weight of evidence suggests it is \"highly likely\" there are plenty of blue sharks left in the sea. The analysts also stressed that, by all accounts, other countries kill far more sharks than Canada's swordfishermen do. So, they said, Canada causes only a small part of the bycatch problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We are not saying that shark bycatch doesn't matter,\" says Howes. \"What we're saying implicit within the labeling of that fishery is, the shark bycatch of that unique individual certified fishery is safe. It's within ecological limits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnes, of the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition, says the controversy over Canadian swordfish illustrates why the booming demand for sustainable seafood actually threatens to hurt the movement more than help it. \"The bottom line is that there are not enough truly sustainable fisheries on the earth to sustain the demand,\" Barnes says. \"The retailers and wholesalers all want access to this kind of label because they're trying to ... make money with their consumers. There's nothing wrong with that; that's how the world works.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Barnes charges that the MSC is labeling some fisheries as sustainable — even when they are not — partly to fill the seafood counters at Wal-Mart and other large chains. \"I'm not down on Wal-Mart at all, don't get me wrong,\" he says. \"But to get on line with big chains as your goal leads you down a path that I don't think the originators of the MSC intended.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes could hardly disagree more. \"If you really want to contribute to the transformation of our economic systems more generally, you've got to engage with the big guys. And therefore, I absolutely welcome Wal-Mart's commitment,\" he says. \"That will drive change.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howes continues: \"Will that overload the MSC system? No.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He argues that there's no way the MSC could label problem fisheries sustainable just to satisfy demand, because, he says, the certifiers evaluate each fishery based only on scientific evidence. But he adds, \"We want to see oceans fished sustainably forever. We're not going to achieve that by becoming a small niche organization that engages with a handful of perfect fisheries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Researcher Barbara Van Woerkom contributed to this story.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Web Resources\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Additional studies and information on sustainable fishing and labeling.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.msc.org/\">The Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://oceanrep.geomar.de/14215/\">Evaluation And Legal Assessment Of Certified Seafood\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0043765\">Reliable Information on Fish Stock Health to Seafood Consumers\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://scientiamarina.revistas.csic.es/index.php/scientiamarina/article/viewArticle/1055\">Beyond Duplicity And Ignorance In Global Fisheries\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fni.no/publ/marine.html#msc\">The Emergence and Effectiveness of the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/56680/is-sustainable-labeled-seafood-really-sustainable","authors":["byline_bayareabites_56680"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_11197","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_9491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_56681","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_43388":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43388","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43388","score":null,"sort":[1337297077000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"schooners-coastal-kitchen-and-bar","title":"Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar","publishDate":1337297077,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp> “Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.” So begins \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/95-9781440630361-0\">Steinbeck’s 1945 novel\u003c/a>, set in a time when sardines created a boom economy in this fishing village; though these fish were once thought to be almost wiped out, this vast, silvered biomass has been making a comeback. Sardine fishing boats sway on anchor next to vessels that troll for tuna and hook-and-line for groundfish. This town has become epicenter of the sustainable fishing movement, with the venerable \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> a main attraction, and their \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> a guide for consumers and chefs alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/1schooners560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/1schooners560.jpg\" alt=\"Monterey Plaza Hotel - Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" title=\"Monterey Plaza Hotel - Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar is located in the Monterey Plaza Hotel on Cannery Row in Monterey. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past January, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/hotel-dining.html\">Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> opened to an enthusiastic public. Located in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/\">Monterey Plaza Hotel\u003c/a>, once the site of a cannery, the dining room opens to views of the bay where sea otters drift in kelp forests and rafts of sea lions roar at one another. This restaurant used to be the Duck Club Grill, but Chef James Waller overhauled it into a no-fuss seafood restaurant with local, simple ingredients and transparency that includes an open kitchen and the menu lists where and how the seafood entrees were caught. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chef-waller1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chef-waller560.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Waller at Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" title=\"Chef James Waller at Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef James Waller at the grill. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Waller got his start in seafood at fish houses on the Jersey Coast, where fishermen brought in their hauls of bluefish, clams, and scallops to feed the hungry beach-goers. When he started working in Monterey, he thought customers would insist on salmon year round, which means farmed, or Atlantic swordfish--seafood that’s not sustainable. “But I was wrong,” he explained. “People kept showing up with Seafood Watch cards or referencing their Smartphone apps from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. They were totally onboard and appreciated the extra effort that goes into carefully sourcing seafood.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/angry_prawns1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/angry_prawns560.jpg\" alt=\"Angry Prawns\" title=\"Angry Prawns\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Angry Prawns appetizers at Schooners are a favorite. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their appetizers, like angry prawns and plank-seared scallops, make visiting this beautiful bay that much better; fresh seasonal seafood like peanut crusted mahi-mahi in orange soy butter or California swordfish with beurre rouge, romanesco and grapefruit will win over any meat-and-potato landlubber, but the buzz here is due to their chowders and stews. They have six, including two vegan options—the roasted tomato and mushroom chowders. I tried the clam chowder and it was sublime. Each chowder is made to order, and so the wine, fresh herbs, rich cream and boiled potatoes keep their separate charms; the clams are from Tomales Bay and left their shells. These elements brought together make the chowder complex, comforting and sensual all at once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chowder-stove1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chowder-stove560.jpg\" alt=\"chowder cooking\" title=\"chowder cooking\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43404\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Each chowder is made to order. Here they are preparing clam chowder. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not yet on the menu were sardines. These are slowly coming into vogue with San Francisco Bay area chefs, as eating smaller fish on the food chain helps keep the food chains in the ocean balanced. As well, they have far less mercury and other toxins than large fish and are very high in omega 3’s, and so are a healthy choice. Chef Waller said that he prepared them when he got them in, but admitted that these were a tough sell. “The great thing about sardines and mackerel,” he explained, “Is that they can stand up to spices and acidity. I might use harissa with them, or citrus or roasted tomato. You won’t lose the flavor.” Sardine season, coming up in June, seems like a great reason to return to Schooner’s Coastal Kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/schooners_view_south1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/schooners_view_south560.jpg\" alt=\"Schooners interior - south view\" title=\"Schooners interior - south view\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43407\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This restaurant used to be the Duck Club Grill, but last year went through a major renovation and reopened in January 2011 as Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May 18-20, The Monterey Bay Aquarium is having their annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">“Cooking for Solutions”\u003c/a> with over 70 chefs and 60 wineries. Chef Waller and Schooners Coastal Kitchen will be participating. You’ll find them at the Sustainable Seafood Challenge with Carla Hall and other celebrity chefs. Saturday, May 19, 5-7p.m. at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. ($150.00, available to Aquarium members only. Tax-deductible portion: $50.00) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/hotel-dining.html\">Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n400 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For reservations, call (831) 646-1706\u003cbr>\nHours Of Operation\u003cbr>\nBreakfast: 6:30am-11:00am (12:00 noon weekends)\u003cbr>\nLunch: 11:30am-5:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 5:00pm-9:30pm (10:00pm weekends)\u003cbr>\nBar service from 11:00am-11:00pm (12:00am weekends)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"May 18-20, The Monterey Bay Aquarium is having their annual “Cooking for Solutions” with over 70 chefs and 60 wineries. Chef Waller and Schooners Coastal Kitchen will be participating. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1337297188,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":806},"headData":{"title":"Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar | KQED","description":"May 18-20, The Monterey Bay Aquarium is having their annual “Cooking for Solutions” with over 70 chefs and 60 wineries. Chef Waller and Schooners Coastal Kitchen will be participating. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"43388 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43388","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/17/schooners-coastal-kitchen-and-bar/","disqusTitle":"Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar","path":"/bayareabites/43388/schooners-coastal-kitchen-and-bar","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> “Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.” So begins \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/95-9781440630361-0\">Steinbeck’s 1945 novel\u003c/a>, set in a time when sardines created a boom economy in this fishing village; though these fish were once thought to be almost wiped out, this vast, silvered biomass has been making a comeback. Sardine fishing boats sway on anchor next to vessels that troll for tuna and hook-and-line for groundfish. This town has become epicenter of the sustainable fishing movement, with the venerable \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> a main attraction, and their \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> a guide for consumers and chefs alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/1schooners560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/1schooners560.jpg\" alt=\"Monterey Plaza Hotel - Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" title=\"Monterey Plaza Hotel - Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar is located in the Monterey Plaza Hotel on Cannery Row in Monterey. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past January, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/hotel-dining.html\">Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> opened to an enthusiastic public. Located in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/\">Monterey Plaza Hotel\u003c/a>, once the site of a cannery, the dining room opens to views of the bay where sea otters drift in kelp forests and rafts of sea lions roar at one another. This restaurant used to be the Duck Club Grill, but Chef James Waller overhauled it into a no-fuss seafood restaurant with local, simple ingredients and transparency that includes an open kitchen and the menu lists where and how the seafood entrees were caught. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chef-waller1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chef-waller560.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Waller at Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" title=\"Chef James Waller at Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef James Waller at the grill. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Waller got his start in seafood at fish houses on the Jersey Coast, where fishermen brought in their hauls of bluefish, clams, and scallops to feed the hungry beach-goers. When he started working in Monterey, he thought customers would insist on salmon year round, which means farmed, or Atlantic swordfish--seafood that’s not sustainable. “But I was wrong,” he explained. “People kept showing up with Seafood Watch cards or referencing their Smartphone apps from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. They were totally onboard and appreciated the extra effort that goes into carefully sourcing seafood.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/angry_prawns1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/angry_prawns560.jpg\" alt=\"Angry Prawns\" title=\"Angry Prawns\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Angry Prawns appetizers at Schooners are a favorite. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their appetizers, like angry prawns and plank-seared scallops, make visiting this beautiful bay that much better; fresh seasonal seafood like peanut crusted mahi-mahi in orange soy butter or California swordfish with beurre rouge, romanesco and grapefruit will win over any meat-and-potato landlubber, but the buzz here is due to their chowders and stews. They have six, including two vegan options—the roasted tomato and mushroom chowders. I tried the clam chowder and it was sublime. Each chowder is made to order, and so the wine, fresh herbs, rich cream and boiled potatoes keep their separate charms; the clams are from Tomales Bay and left their shells. These elements brought together make the chowder complex, comforting and sensual all at once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chowder-stove1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/chowder-stove560.jpg\" alt=\"chowder cooking\" title=\"chowder cooking\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43404\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Each chowder is made to order. Here they are preparing clam chowder. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not yet on the menu were sardines. These are slowly coming into vogue with San Francisco Bay area chefs, as eating smaller fish on the food chain helps keep the food chains in the ocean balanced. As well, they have far less mercury and other toxins than large fish and are very high in omega 3’s, and so are a healthy choice. Chef Waller said that he prepared them when he got them in, but admitted that these were a tough sell. “The great thing about sardines and mackerel,” he explained, “Is that they can stand up to spices and acidity. I might use harissa with them, or citrus or roasted tomato. You won’t lose the flavor.” Sardine season, coming up in June, seems like a great reason to return to Schooner’s Coastal Kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/schooners_view_south1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/schooners_view_south560.jpg\" alt=\"Schooners interior - south view\" title=\"Schooners interior - south view\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43407\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This restaurant used to be the Duck Club Grill, but last year went through a major renovation and reopened in January 2011 as Schooners Coastal Kitchen and Bar. Photo: Marc Fiorito of Gamma Nine\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May 18-20, The Monterey Bay Aquarium is having their annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">“Cooking for Solutions”\u003c/a> with over 70 chefs and 60 wineries. Chef Waller and Schooners Coastal Kitchen will be participating. You’ll find them at the Sustainable Seafood Challenge with Carla Hall and other celebrity chefs. Saturday, May 19, 5-7p.m. at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. ($150.00, available to Aquarium members only. Tax-deductible portion: $50.00) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyplazahotel.com/hotel-dining.html\">Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n400 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For reservations, call (831) 646-1706\u003cbr>\nHours Of Operation\u003cbr>\nBreakfast: 6:30am-11:00am (12:00 noon weekends)\u003cbr>\nLunch: 11:30am-5:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 5:00pm-9:30pm (10:00pm weekends)\u003cbr>\nBar service from 11:00am-11:00pm (12:00am weekends)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43388/schooners-coastal-kitchen-and-bar","authors":["5371"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10445","bayareabites_10443","bayareabites_8985","bayareabites_10444","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_9491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43400","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_34055":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_34055","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"34055","score":null,"sort":[1318861463000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"words-on-the-waves-litquake-in-sausalito","title":"Words on the Waves: Litquake in Sausalito","publishDate":1318861463,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\" alt=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" title=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnonr size-full wp-image-34296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rum, chowder, and Otis Redding: could a Saturday afternoon on the waterfront get any better? It was the first of what we hope will be an annual event, Litquake's \u003ca href=\"http://www.litquake.org/calendar-of-events/event/words-on-the-waves\">Words on the Waves\u003c/a>, presenting a walkabout of eight readings presented on a cluster of Sausalito houseboats, followed by an open-air concert, cocktails, tasty eats, and tango dancing on the sunny South 40 Pier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally, said \u003ca href=\"http://www.lehmannhaupt.com/\">Rachel Lehmann-Haupt\u003c/a>, a writer and one of the event's organizers, the idea had been to feature food as well as spoken words on each of the eight houseboat sites. After all, we love books and writers here almost as much as we love our sea-salt caramels. But trying to put writers, houseboat owners, and cooks together proved a little too challenging for the event's first time out, and so food and drinks became part of the pierside party after the readings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" title=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34298\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun danced between teasing ribbons of fog and longtime musician and houseboat dweller Joe Tate strummed his guitar and spun yarns about Otis Redding (yes, \"Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay\" was written here), houseboat dwellers Amy Butcher and organizer Hillair Bell squeezed limes into plastic cups of \u003cstrong>Anchor Out\u003c/strong> cocktails, created just for the event. Like a mojito without the mint, the drinks had a strong dark-rum base (what else for a crowd of literary pirates?) sweetened with ginger and kaffir-lime syrup, tarted up with lime juice and fizzed with club soda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" title=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind me, landlubbers and pirates alike slurp down Walker Creek oysters from Washington, adroitly shucked by Martin Reed, Captain of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a>, an online fish company for chefs and consumers. A Bay Area local, Reed moved to Arizona to work as a management consultant, and realized that the rest of the country had nothing like the Bay Area's abundance of fresh-off-the-boat, sustainable seafood. So, a little over a year ago, he started I Love Blue Sea, buying his products directly from fishermen and abiding by the guidelines set forth by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>. Reed's favorite seafood items right now? Besides this batch of briny, ocean-splashed Walker Creeks, he favors Kumamoto and Kusshi oysters, plus local albacore, black cod, and halibut. And not that we're lacking places to get great fish around here, but locals who order online can skip the shipping charges and pick up their fish at \u003ca href=\"http://radiussf.com\">Radius Cafe\u003c/a> at 7th and Folsom in Soma. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\" alt=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" title=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34297\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prefer wine to rum? \u003ca href=\"www.mariafinn.com\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, houseboat dweller, author, and \u003cem>Words on the Waves\u003c/em> organizer introduced me to Emily and Jay Kell of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vergewine.com\">Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/a>, pouring their 2007 Verge Syrah, made from organic grapes sourced in the Dry Creek Valley. Why Verge? Because they look for grapes grown \"on the verge,\" with room for nature to run wild. When it turns out that the Kells hail from Arkansas, where I spent some very enjoyable months living and cooking at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/11/the-writers-colony-at-dairy-hollow/\">Writers Colony at Dairy Hollow\u003c/a> in Eureka Springs, well, we could chat all day about life in the Ozarks. Only the scent of chowder inspired by Melville can lure me away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\" alt=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" title=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34299\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's good chowder, too, cod and clam, with milk, potatoes, bacon, bay leaves, perhaps even a little chicken stock in among the seafood--altogether more complex that the simple clam-or-cod soup served up by Mrs. Hussey of the Try Pots Tavern in Melville's classic tome, \u003cem>Moby Dick. \u003c/em>This one has been made by David Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com\">Davy Jones' Deli\u003c/a>, a popular sandwich-and-more joint that operates at the back of the Bait Shop, a nearby convenience store. A little over a year ago, Jones convinced the shop's owner to ditch his microwaved hot dogs and Costco potato salad for handmade, colorful sandwiches stacked high with local, organic ingredients. \"We're known for our beef brisket, our pulled pork, and our vegan wraps, all with housemade condiments, including our secret-recipe vegan aioli,\" says Jones. Once a sea and safari cook who taught environmental science on ships, Jones spied a book about Sausalito's houseboats, and, as he puts it, \"For the first time I felt geographic envy. I said to myself, there I could be a landlubber.” He and his wife now live in one of the houseboats he once envied, running the deli and catering special events. His day to day clientele? “Gangsters, yoga moms, and the uber-rich, all rolled into one,” he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a novel right there. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Rum, chowder, and literature come to the houseboats of Sausalito as part of Litquake's Words on the Waves program.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1318868404,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":800},"headData":{"title":"Words on the Waves: Litquake in Sausalito | KQED","description":"Rum, chowder, and literature come to the houseboats of Sausalito as part of Litquake's Words on the Waves program.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"34055 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=34055","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/17/words-on-the-waves-litquake-in-sausalito/","disqusTitle":"Words on the Waves: Litquake in Sausalito","path":"/bayareabites/34055/words-on-the-waves-litquake-in-sausalito","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\" alt=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" title=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnonr size-full wp-image-34296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rum, chowder, and Otis Redding: could a Saturday afternoon on the waterfront get any better? It was the first of what we hope will be an annual event, Litquake's \u003ca href=\"http://www.litquake.org/calendar-of-events/event/words-on-the-waves\">Words on the Waves\u003c/a>, presenting a walkabout of eight readings presented on a cluster of Sausalito houseboats, followed by an open-air concert, cocktails, tasty eats, and tango dancing on the sunny South 40 Pier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally, said \u003ca href=\"http://www.lehmannhaupt.com/\">Rachel Lehmann-Haupt\u003c/a>, a writer and one of the event's organizers, the idea had been to feature food as well as spoken words on each of the eight houseboat sites. After all, we love books and writers here almost as much as we love our sea-salt caramels. But trying to put writers, houseboat owners, and cooks together proved a little too challenging for the event's first time out, and so food and drinks became part of the pierside party after the readings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" title=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34298\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun danced between teasing ribbons of fog and longtime musician and houseboat dweller Joe Tate strummed his guitar and spun yarns about Otis Redding (yes, \"Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay\" was written here), houseboat dwellers Amy Butcher and organizer Hillair Bell squeezed limes into plastic cups of \u003cstrong>Anchor Out\u003c/strong> cocktails, created just for the event. Like a mojito without the mint, the drinks had a strong dark-rum base (what else for a crowd of literary pirates?) sweetened with ginger and kaffir-lime syrup, tarted up with lime juice and fizzed with club soda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" title=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind me, landlubbers and pirates alike slurp down Walker Creek oysters from Washington, adroitly shucked by Martin Reed, Captain of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a>, an online fish company for chefs and consumers. A Bay Area local, Reed moved to Arizona to work as a management consultant, and realized that the rest of the country had nothing like the Bay Area's abundance of fresh-off-the-boat, sustainable seafood. So, a little over a year ago, he started I Love Blue Sea, buying his products directly from fishermen and abiding by the guidelines set forth by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>. Reed's favorite seafood items right now? Besides this batch of briny, ocean-splashed Walker Creeks, he favors Kumamoto and Kusshi oysters, plus local albacore, black cod, and halibut. And not that we're lacking places to get great fish around here, but locals who order online can skip the shipping charges and pick up their fish at \u003ca href=\"http://radiussf.com\">Radius Cafe\u003c/a> at 7th and Folsom in Soma. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\" alt=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" title=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34297\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prefer wine to rum? \u003ca href=\"www.mariafinn.com\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, houseboat dweller, author, and \u003cem>Words on the Waves\u003c/em> organizer introduced me to Emily and Jay Kell of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vergewine.com\">Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/a>, pouring their 2007 Verge Syrah, made from organic grapes sourced in the Dry Creek Valley. Why Verge? Because they look for grapes grown \"on the verge,\" with room for nature to run wild. When it turns out that the Kells hail from Arkansas, where I spent some very enjoyable months living and cooking at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/11/the-writers-colony-at-dairy-hollow/\">Writers Colony at Dairy Hollow\u003c/a> in Eureka Springs, well, we could chat all day about life in the Ozarks. Only the scent of chowder inspired by Melville can lure me away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\" alt=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" title=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34299\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's good chowder, too, cod and clam, with milk, potatoes, bacon, bay leaves, perhaps even a little chicken stock in among the seafood--altogether more complex that the simple clam-or-cod soup served up by Mrs. Hussey of the Try Pots Tavern in Melville's classic tome, \u003cem>Moby Dick. \u003c/em>This one has been made by David Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com\">Davy Jones' Deli\u003c/a>, a popular sandwich-and-more joint that operates at the back of the Bait Shop, a nearby convenience store. A little over a year ago, Jones convinced the shop's owner to ditch his microwaved hot dogs and Costco potato salad for handmade, colorful sandwiches stacked high with local, organic ingredients. \"We're known for our beef brisket, our pulled pork, and our vegan wraps, all with housemade condiments, including our secret-recipe vegan aioli,\" says Jones. Once a sea and safari cook who taught environmental science on ships, Jones spied a book about Sausalito's houseboats, and, as he puts it, \"For the first time I felt geographic envy. I said to myself, there I could be a landlubber.” He and his wife now live in one of the houseboats he once envied, running the deli and catering special events. His day to day clientele? “Gangsters, yoga moms, and the uber-rich, all rolled into one,” he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a novel right there. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/34055/words-on-the-waves-litquake-in-sausalito","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_1606","bayareabites_9810","bayareabites_9809","bayareabites_8407","bayareabites_8985","bayareabites_2736","bayareabites_9491","bayareabites_9808"],"featImg":"bayareabites_34296","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_30130":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_30130","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"30130","score":null,"sort":[1310408157000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sustainable-seafood-new-and-noteworthy-resources","title":"Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources","publishDate":1310408157,"format":"video","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Up until a couple of recent events, I'd almost given up consuming seafood in this country, saving my shellfish and finfish feasts for my annual visits back home to Australia, where eating sea creatures seems somehow less loaded and certainly more local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then in May I was fortunate to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a> Sustainable Foods Institute, a media powwow hosted by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_campaigns/?gclid=CI7B5YOg8qkCFRxrgwodZAM0Xw\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> (creator of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx\">Seafood Watch pocket guide\u003c/a>). At the event everyone from fired up media mogul turned bison farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereycountyweekly.com/weblogs/edible-complex/2011/may/26/more-cfs-2011-ted-turner-goes-off-on-bombs-bison-a/\">Ted Turner\u003c/a> and actor-activist \u003ca href=\"http://chefscollaborative.org/2011/05/26/what-does-isabella-rossellini-have-to-do-with-sustainable-seafood/\">Isabelle Rossellini\u003c/a> to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.cindypawlcyn.com/\">Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/a> and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/authorbio.html\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> scientists and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">sustainable fishing advocates\u003c/a> -- schooled me in the latest research and thinking on eating fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/GoodFish.jpg\" alt=\"good fish\" title=\"good fish\" width=\"240\" height=\"284\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-30197\">\u003c/a>That two-day sustainable seafood cram session was followed by a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in June to hear Seattle-based seafood chef-writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/about.asp\">Becky Selengut\u003c/a> joke about how she caught crabs on assignment for a magazine and, more seriously, dish out advice on how to buy and cook local seafood in her new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood consumers and home cooks should consider this post a companion piece to my Bay Area Bites colleague \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/17/a-consumers-guide-to-buying-sustainable-fish/\">Denise Santoro Lincoln's sustainable fish primer\u003c/a> from February, which is full of good tips and reliable resources on this very subject. Check that post out and then come back here. I'll wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, let's get the bad stuff out of the way, shall we? Buying fish is confusing and challenging because you're concerned about species extinction, pollution problems, \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/blog/2011/06/buy-catch/\">bycatch issues\u003c/a>, and health concerns, right? And you should be. While seafood is an excellent source of lean protein and heart- and brain-friendly omega-3s, it can also be laden with mercury, which can do a nasty number on the brain and nervous systems of vulnerable populations (think nursing women, children, and the unborn). Add to that persistent organic pollutants (also known as POPS) which, despite the cute acronym, are hormone-disrupting neurotoxins that can wreak havoc on humans, and it's a wonder you're not hungry for a slab of farmed salmon or wild tuna cooked quickly on the grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, for the ethical environmentalists among us, there's the sad realization that we're coming to the end of the line seafood-species wise. We've done a good job globally of depleting fish stocks to worrisomely low levels, with Atlantic cod and bluefin tuna on a fast track towards extinction. Throw in the real problems with certain farmed fish businesses (think waste-disease-pollution) and the anxiety around \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/#slide2\"> GMO-salmon\u003c/a> and the dreaded \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/06/frankenfish-milk-and-the-return-of-acid-rain/58861/\">Frankenfish\u003c/a>, and it's enough to make a seafood lover switch to some other protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough with the horror stories from the open seas. There are still ways to get a seafood fix, it just takes a little education, thought and planning. But if you've read this far you're probably willing to go the extra mile for mussels or work a bit harder for halibut. Chances are, you've likely already done that as far as fruit and vegetables are concerned (local, organic, seasonal) and meat (grass-fed, humanely-raised, thoughtfully slaughtered).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Some suggestions for making healthier, more sustainable seafood choices, gleaned from the experts above:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think small:\u003c/strong> Americans are conditioned to thinking bigger is better. Not necessarily so when it comes to fish. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/08/FDDP1GTD71.DTL\">Sardines\u003c/a> and anchovies, those little, oily bottom feeders of the sea, revered in other parts of the world, are delicious, nutritious, and affordable, and carry a lower risk for toxins than big fish like tuna.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy seasonally and diversify:\u003c/strong> Would you expect to buy great tasting, local, organic tomatoes in January? Apply the same sensibility to your seafood shopping and pick shellfish and finfish during their peak time for freshness, taste, and price. Dungeness crab is harvested in the fall and winter, for instance. When in doubt, ask. Most Americans who eat seafood choose salmon, shrimp, or tuna. Check out Arctic char or Pacific halibut for a change.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Reconsider frozen and farmed fish:\u003c/strong> A properly frozen fish (landed gently, bled, and quickly chilled preferably at sea) can be a high-quality, carbon-foot print friendly option, if handled well, says Selengut. While hook-and-line wild fish is a better bet than seafood caught by dredging or trawling, which can produce a lot of bycatch (accidentally caught species unintentionally killed in the fishing process), farmed fish are a wise choice in some circumstances, adds the cookbook author. Farmed fish may be a more sustainable choice for fish lower on the food chain that are either vegetarian or require only small amounts of fish protein to produce flesh. Find an example of a farmed fish that may be gentler on the environment in a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,2081796,00.html\">\u003cem>Time\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a> story on a western Massachusetts-based outfit farming barramundi, a fish much loved in my homeland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Find a fishmonger you trust:\u003c/strong> Local picks include the year-old San Francisco-based online sustainable seafood supplier \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>, co-founded by \u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/i-love-blue-sea/\">Martin Reed\u003c/a>, a panelist at the recent Sustainable Foods Institute. I love blue sea doesn't sell any of Seafood Watch's red-listed fish and ships via FedEx across the country. (Bay Area residents can pick up directly, avoiding the expense and guilt associated with air freight).\n\u003cp>Newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://sirenseasa.com/\">Siren SeaSA\u003c/a> founded by Anna Larsen, offers a CSA-like option for seafood lovers: For six Saturdays starting July 16, subscribers can pick up an assortment of seasonal, sustainable seafood in San Francisco or Petaluma. Catch of the day may include wild king salmon from Bodega Bay, squid from Monterey, wild-caught Pacific sardines, Miyagi oysters from Tomales Bay, and hook-and-line caught black cod. Limited to 100 members for its trial run, a six-week subscription is still available at a cost of $255 for seafood portions calculated to feed four people. Larsen plans to continue the program beyond this initial summer launch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Community Supported Fishery (CSF) program is also running this summer out of \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/site/hmbfishing/clients\">Half Moon Bay.\u003c/a> And a very new online resource \u003ca href=\"http://www.localcatch.org/\">Local Catch\u003c/a>, promises connections to CSF members via a zip code search function.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Frequent seafood restaurants with a sustainable seafood rap\u003c/strong>: Top picks from \u003cem>San Francisco's\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/the-new-school-of-fish\">\"Good Fish, Bad Fish\"\u003c/a> story by Erik Vance this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebasin.com/\">The Basin\u003c/a> in Saratoga, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooleatz.com/flea-st-cafe/index.html\">Flea St. Cafe\u003c/a> in Menlo Park, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nettiescrabshack.com/\">Nettie's Crab Shack\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\">Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar & Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and\u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\"> Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa. See how\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/scoring-the-top-menus\"> 18 other big name Bay Area restaurants fared on the sustainable seafood\u003c/a> front in the magazine's story.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about sustainable seafood:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Read\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/\">\u003cem>Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Paul Greenberg, which documents the tenuous outlook for salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Follow\u003c/strong> the reporting of sustainable seafood writers such as former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> scribe Barry Estabrook of \u003ca href=\"http://politicsoftheplate.com/\">Politics of the Plate\u003c/a> and freelance food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/clips.htm\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch\u003c/strong> Isabelle Rossellini's entertaining, educational, and amusing \u003ca href=\"http://www.sundancechannel.com/greenporno/\">Green Porno\u003c/a> series, which documents the plight of sea creatures and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See\u003c/strong> the seafood documentaries \u003ca href=\"https://theendofthelinemovie.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.redgoldfilm.com/\">Red Gold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cook\u003c/strong> Find Mark Bittman's simple recipes for serving white fish fillet a dozen ways in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/magazine/mag-03Eat-t.html\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Check out acclaimed seafood chef and National Geographic Fellow \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/press\">Barton Seaver's\u003c/a> new cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/\">\u003cem>For Cod and Country\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or Selengut's \u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>, which features fifteen types of Pacific Coast sea creatures (including clams, crabs, char, cod, salmon, scallops, squid, and sardines) in 75 recipes. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/index.asp\">instructional online videos\u003c/a> from the private chef and cooking teacher, who also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefreinvented.com/\">chefreinvented\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got a sustainable seafood resource to share? Add your voice below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.youtube.com/embed/D5zdLHWkCXw\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Can we still eat sea creatures? Yes, say sustainable fishing advocates. A guide to smart, safe, sustainable seafood choices.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1586798734,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1304},"headData":{"title":"Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources | KQED","description":"Can we still eat sea creatures? Yes, say sustainable fishing advocates. A guide to smart, safe, sustainable seafood choices.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"30130 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=30130","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/07/11/sustainable-seafood-new-and-noteworthy-resources/","disqusTitle":"Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/IsNOr_b6bwM","path":"/bayareabites/30130/sustainable-seafood-new-and-noteworthy-resources","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Up until a couple of recent events, I'd almost given up consuming seafood in this country, saving my shellfish and finfish feasts for my annual visits back home to Australia, where eating sea creatures seems somehow less loaded and certainly more local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then in May I was fortunate to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a> Sustainable Foods Institute, a media powwow hosted by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_campaigns/?gclid=CI7B5YOg8qkCFRxrgwodZAM0Xw\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> (creator of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx\">Seafood Watch pocket guide\u003c/a>). At the event everyone from fired up media mogul turned bison farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereycountyweekly.com/weblogs/edible-complex/2011/may/26/more-cfs-2011-ted-turner-goes-off-on-bombs-bison-a/\">Ted Turner\u003c/a> and actor-activist \u003ca href=\"http://chefscollaborative.org/2011/05/26/what-does-isabella-rossellini-have-to-do-with-sustainable-seafood/\">Isabelle Rossellini\u003c/a> to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.cindypawlcyn.com/\">Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/a> and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/authorbio.html\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> scientists and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">sustainable fishing advocates\u003c/a> -- schooled me in the latest research and thinking on eating fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/GoodFish.jpg\" alt=\"good fish\" title=\"good fish\" width=\"240\" height=\"284\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-30197\">\u003c/a>That two-day sustainable seafood cram session was followed by a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in June to hear Seattle-based seafood chef-writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/about.asp\">Becky Selengut\u003c/a> joke about how she caught crabs on assignment for a magazine and, more seriously, dish out advice on how to buy and cook local seafood in her new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood consumers and home cooks should consider this post a companion piece to my Bay Area Bites colleague \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/17/a-consumers-guide-to-buying-sustainable-fish/\">Denise Santoro Lincoln's sustainable fish primer\u003c/a> from February, which is full of good tips and reliable resources on this very subject. Check that post out and then come back here. I'll wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, let's get the bad stuff out of the way, shall we? Buying fish is confusing and challenging because you're concerned about species extinction, pollution problems, \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/blog/2011/06/buy-catch/\">bycatch issues\u003c/a>, and health concerns, right? And you should be. While seafood is an excellent source of lean protein and heart- and brain-friendly omega-3s, it can also be laden with mercury, which can do a nasty number on the brain and nervous systems of vulnerable populations (think nursing women, children, and the unborn). Add to that persistent organic pollutants (also known as POPS) which, despite the cute acronym, are hormone-disrupting neurotoxins that can wreak havoc on humans, and it's a wonder you're not hungry for a slab of farmed salmon or wild tuna cooked quickly on the grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, for the ethical environmentalists among us, there's the sad realization that we're coming to the end of the line seafood-species wise. We've done a good job globally of depleting fish stocks to worrisomely low levels, with Atlantic cod and bluefin tuna on a fast track towards extinction. Throw in the real problems with certain farmed fish businesses (think waste-disease-pollution) and the anxiety around \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/#slide2\"> GMO-salmon\u003c/a> and the dreaded \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/06/frankenfish-milk-and-the-return-of-acid-rain/58861/\">Frankenfish\u003c/a>, and it's enough to make a seafood lover switch to some other protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough with the horror stories from the open seas. There are still ways to get a seafood fix, it just takes a little education, thought and planning. But if you've read this far you're probably willing to go the extra mile for mussels or work a bit harder for halibut. Chances are, you've likely already done that as far as fruit and vegetables are concerned (local, organic, seasonal) and meat (grass-fed, humanely-raised, thoughtfully slaughtered).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Some suggestions for making healthier, more sustainable seafood choices, gleaned from the experts above:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think small:\u003c/strong> Americans are conditioned to thinking bigger is better. Not necessarily so when it comes to fish. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/08/FDDP1GTD71.DTL\">Sardines\u003c/a> and anchovies, those little, oily bottom feeders of the sea, revered in other parts of the world, are delicious, nutritious, and affordable, and carry a lower risk for toxins than big fish like tuna.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy seasonally and diversify:\u003c/strong> Would you expect to buy great tasting, local, organic tomatoes in January? Apply the same sensibility to your seafood shopping and pick shellfish and finfish during their peak time for freshness, taste, and price. Dungeness crab is harvested in the fall and winter, for instance. When in doubt, ask. Most Americans who eat seafood choose salmon, shrimp, or tuna. Check out Arctic char or Pacific halibut for a change.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Reconsider frozen and farmed fish:\u003c/strong> A properly frozen fish (landed gently, bled, and quickly chilled preferably at sea) can be a high-quality, carbon-foot print friendly option, if handled well, says Selengut. While hook-and-line wild fish is a better bet than seafood caught by dredging or trawling, which can produce a lot of bycatch (accidentally caught species unintentionally killed in the fishing process), farmed fish are a wise choice in some circumstances, adds the cookbook author. Farmed fish may be a more sustainable choice for fish lower on the food chain that are either vegetarian or require only small amounts of fish protein to produce flesh. Find an example of a farmed fish that may be gentler on the environment in a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,2081796,00.html\">\u003cem>Time\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a> story on a western Massachusetts-based outfit farming barramundi, a fish much loved in my homeland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Find a fishmonger you trust:\u003c/strong> Local picks include the year-old San Francisco-based online sustainable seafood supplier \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>, co-founded by \u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/i-love-blue-sea/\">Martin Reed\u003c/a>, a panelist at the recent Sustainable Foods Institute. I love blue sea doesn't sell any of Seafood Watch's red-listed fish and ships via FedEx across the country. (Bay Area residents can pick up directly, avoiding the expense and guilt associated with air freight).\n\u003cp>Newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://sirenseasa.com/\">Siren SeaSA\u003c/a> founded by Anna Larsen, offers a CSA-like option for seafood lovers: For six Saturdays starting July 16, subscribers can pick up an assortment of seasonal, sustainable seafood in San Francisco or Petaluma. Catch of the day may include wild king salmon from Bodega Bay, squid from Monterey, wild-caught Pacific sardines, Miyagi oysters from Tomales Bay, and hook-and-line caught black cod. Limited to 100 members for its trial run, a six-week subscription is still available at a cost of $255 for seafood portions calculated to feed four people. Larsen plans to continue the program beyond this initial summer launch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Community Supported Fishery (CSF) program is also running this summer out of \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/site/hmbfishing/clients\">Half Moon Bay.\u003c/a> And a very new online resource \u003ca href=\"http://www.localcatch.org/\">Local Catch\u003c/a>, promises connections to CSF members via a zip code search function.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Frequent seafood restaurants with a sustainable seafood rap\u003c/strong>: Top picks from \u003cem>San Francisco's\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/the-new-school-of-fish\">\"Good Fish, Bad Fish\"\u003c/a> story by Erik Vance this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebasin.com/\">The Basin\u003c/a> in Saratoga, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooleatz.com/flea-st-cafe/index.html\">Flea St. Cafe\u003c/a> in Menlo Park, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nettiescrabshack.com/\">Nettie's Crab Shack\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\">Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar & Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and\u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\"> Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa. See how\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/scoring-the-top-menus\"> 18 other big name Bay Area restaurants fared on the sustainable seafood\u003c/a> front in the magazine's story.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about sustainable seafood:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Read\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/\">\u003cem>Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Paul Greenberg, which documents the tenuous outlook for salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Follow\u003c/strong> the reporting of sustainable seafood writers such as former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> scribe Barry Estabrook of \u003ca href=\"http://politicsoftheplate.com/\">Politics of the Plate\u003c/a> and freelance food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/clips.htm\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch\u003c/strong> Isabelle Rossellini's entertaining, educational, and amusing \u003ca href=\"http://www.sundancechannel.com/greenporno/\">Green Porno\u003c/a> series, which documents the plight of sea creatures and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See\u003c/strong> the seafood documentaries \u003ca href=\"https://theendofthelinemovie.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.redgoldfilm.com/\">Red Gold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cook\u003c/strong> Find Mark Bittman's simple recipes for serving white fish fillet a dozen ways in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/magazine/mag-03Eat-t.html\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Check out acclaimed seafood chef and National Geographic Fellow \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/press\">Barton Seaver's\u003c/a> new cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/\">\u003cem>For Cod and Country\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or Selengut's \u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>, which features fifteen types of Pacific Coast sea creatures (including clams, crabs, char, cod, salmon, scallops, squid, and sardines) in 75 recipes. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/index.asp\">instructional online videos\u003c/a> from the private chef and cooking teacher, who also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefreinvented.com/\">chefreinvented\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got a sustainable seafood resource to share? Add your voice below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/D5zdLHWkCXw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/D5zdLHWkCXw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/30130/sustainable-seafood-new-and-noteworthy-resources","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_9497","bayareabites_9495","bayareabites_9500","bayareabites_9499","bayareabites_9496","bayareabites_9492","bayareabites_9498","bayareabites_9494","bayareabites_9493","bayareabites_9491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_30197","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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