In fact, even the less successful flavors (mushroom and spinach, goat cheese, and blueberry) were redeemed by Sacco’s tender dough.

Stuffed’s stumble is not in these weaker pierogi, but in the toppings. The sautéed onions scattered atop almost every order hadn’t yet spent enough time on the flattop to collapse into sweet, silky softness. Each fat dollop of sour cream was appropriately thick and tangy, but the sauerkraut next to it was dry and far too sour. The other options—a cup of creamy cucumber salad or vinegary slaw—were each serviceable, but no substitute for the lack of properly caramelized onions and tangy kraut.

Beer is the beverage of choice when eating Stuffed’s pierogi. They hope to soon offer a couple of Midwestern beers to round out the drinks menu. Photo: Kate Williams

Most of the beers on offer are well matched to the pierogi. Unexceptional macrobrews and a few local favorites like Drake’s and Anchor Steam make up most of the list. Soon, Sacco and Schoengrund plan on serving Midwestern brews from Yuengling and Great Lakes that aren’t currently available in the Bay. Wine seems mostly an afterthought, but it’s hard to imagine sipping on a nice glass of pinot while digging into a plateful of bacon-cheddar dumplings smeared in sour cream. Stuffed also curiously offers mimosas, perhaps in a plea to solicit brunch patrons during their slow weekend hours.

If Stuffed can find a way to draw in greater daytime crowds, they could stand out as one of the only viable alternatives to tacos and fast food on their block. Right now, the restaurant feels like a mid-Valencia street restaurant that lost its way, getting stuck on a stretch of Mission that is dominated by competitively cheap taquerias. Only a block up 24th Street, there are plenty of inferior and more expensive restaurants crammed with Stuffed’s key demographic—young foodies looking for something new with a couple of beers alongside. Only time will tell if they’ll fall for pierogi.

Information:
Stuffed
Address: Map
2788 Mission Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
Phone: (415) 642-1069
Twitter: @SfStuffed

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Stuffed: Pierogi Joint is Positioned to be a Solid Alternative to Taquerias in the Mission