Oftentimes the best, most successful businesses are those born from an understanding of a lack of something in a particular neighborhood. Such was the case with the Oaktown Spice Shop, John Beaver and Erica Perez's charming new spice shop in the Grand/Lakeshore neighborhood of Oakland. The first thing you'll notice about the space, once a men's clothing and shaving boutique, is the distinctly handsome aesthetic. The fixtures and shelving are all salvaged, and John searched high and low and pulled from his own personal collection to find the vintage scales and spice jars you'll see scattered about. It's the kind of space where each detail has been tended to, and you can sense right away that everything is in its rightful place. In that way, it feels very special. Very well-crafted. Very welcoming.

A Peek Inside Oaktown Spice Shop

During my time there, I tasted two different kinds of cinnamon, and smelled the freshest cumin and coriander I've ever come across. I also learned about Tellicherry black peppercorns, which John described as fully ripened with a more refined flavor than traditional black peppercorn. When I told him I wasn't aware there were so many kinds of peppercorns, he likened the difference to varieties of tomatoes and how drastically they can differ in taste. After talking with John for just a moment, you realize you're dealing with a man who really knows his spices and blends. From the common to the more obscure, you're in good hands here.

Star Anise and Nutmeg

When John found out I was a baker, we chatted all about different varieties of cinnamon and vanilla, and I'm so looking forward to trying them out in apple and pear pies. If you're used to buying bulk spices at Whole Foods or other upscale grocery stores you're going to notice two things right away when you walk into Oaktown Spice Shop: first the prices are far better. Second, the spices are far, far fresher. You can open up the jars and take a sniff and it's possible that you won't even recognize some familiar spices you use often. This happened to me pretty quickly. New Year's Resolution #62.

Spice Graters & Rows of Spices

As far as where they get their high-quality selection, John and Erica don't directly import any spices themselves; they work with distributors they know and trust, and have spices and herbs from all over the world including India, Africa, China, and the Mediterranean. When asked what the most popular spice has been so far, John doesn't hesitate to answer that the smoked paprikas practically sell themselves. Perhaps it's because such ingredients are being listed in more and more recipes these days or maybe because they're smartly displayed right by the register. Regardless, locals are snatching them up. Big time.

Smoked paprika shelf!

While they hold normal business hours now, they used to just be open on Saturdays while they worked out the kinks and got everything situated just right. Now that they're fully operational, John and Erica are starting to think about ways they can continue to reach out to the community and get people excited about spices. Erica and I talked about the possibility of having a booth at the farmers market, but for now they're taking things one step at a time.

Owners of the Oaktown Spice Shop helping customers: John Beaver and Erica Perez

When I asked how on earth you fall into the spice business, John mentioned how he used to work at a spice shop back in Milwaukee, where he's from, and couldn't stop thinking about opening a shop here upon moving to Oakland.

Cinnamon...and even more spices!

The neighborhood was a logical choice as the couple lives close by. But it was also a good business decision. There is strong foot traffic and being so close to the Farmers Market, Whole Foods, and Trader Joe's inserts them into a dynamic food community with interested and eager customers who enjoy cooking, baking, and expanding their horizons. It's a win-win for everyone. And after a brief visit to the Oaktown Spice Shop last week, it's going to be an ongoing win for John and Erika.

Oaktown Spice Shop
530 Grand Ave., Oakland, CA 94610
(510) 201-5400

Hours: Tuesday-Friday: 12pm-7pm
Saturday: 10am-5pm
Sunday: 12pm-4pm
Closed Mondays

Website is still under construction; like them on Facebook to keep up to date.

Ingredients for Spicy Mash

Indian food -- the aromatic spices, the color, the bold flavors. Love it. Unfortunately, I'm a bit of a wimp when it comes to heat (good thing for raita and mango lassis to soothe my burning tongue). But, when I tasted this Spicy Mash for the first time, it was so delicious I couldn't stop eating it. Tears were starting to stream down my face, but my hand just kept bringing forkful after forkful to my mouth. It hurt so good.

This brilliant recipe is all thanks to my lovely friend, Fatema. I was super excited when she offered to come over one night to teach us some Indian home-cooking. I've experimented a bit with Indian food before, but still haven't been able really nail my favorites, like Chicken Tikka Masala (the hunt continues for the perfect recipe).

As Fatema unpacked her bag of groceries, I quickly discovered why. It's in the spices! Fatema's mum had just sent her a shipment of spices from Bangladesh via London. They knocked the socks off any of the jarred spices I had in my spice rack. I might as well be storing sawdust in my pantry.

The fragrance and potency of those Indian spices transformed this very simple dish of smashed potatoes. Raw onion and cilantro also added layers of savory, fresh, flavor. (I know, I usually hate raw onions, but it works in this. The trick is to slice them as thin as possible.)

The measurements in this adapted version of Spicy Mash are based on the potent spices I received from Fatema, so this may take a little bit of trial and error the first time you make it with the store-bought stuff (assuming you don't have a little Indian spice fairy like I do). My recommendation is to make the spice butter as directed and then add it gradually to the potatoes, tasting as you go. If more flavor is needed, you can always add more spice, but remember, you can never take out. So taste, taste, taste, as you go, until you get just the right ratio to your liking.

I also made some adaptations to Fatema's original recipe. Like I mentioned before, I can't take too much heat, so I omitted the minced green chilis she used and cut down on the amount of chili powder. I also added some ginger, grated to a pulp on a microplane, for some extra umph…and a bit of milk and cream cheese, which has always been a secret ingredient in my house when it comes to creamy mashed potatoes.

Special thanks to my little spice fairy and her spice smuggling mum! Spicy Mash is definitely going to be a new staple in my repertoire.

Spicy Mash

Spicy Mash

Serves: 4-6 as a side

Ingredients:
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered
½ cup onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup chopped cilantro
1/3 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter
1 ounce cream cheese
1 tablespoon grated ginger
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons yellow curry powder
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon chili powder
Pinch of chili flakes

Preparation:
1. Boil potatoes about 20 minutes, or until you can pierce through them easily with a fork.
2. Mash the potatoes, adding the milk, cream cheese, ginger, and salt, and incorporating well.
3. In a saucepan, melt the butter until it starts to froth. Add the curry, turmeric, chili powder, and chili flakes. Cook the spices for a minute or so in the butter, toasting them up until they are fragrant. Be careful not to burn them.
4. Add this to the mashed potatoes and mix well.
5. Stir in the onions and cilantro. Serve while warm.

Note: If you love spice and need more heat, add some finely minced green chili pepper.

You know how that lovely yellow curry served up at your favorite hole-in-the-wall Indian restaurant turns your napkin, the tips of your fingers, even your plate completely yellow? Congratulations, you have had a swift, yet definitive introduction to turmeric.

Turmeric has been turning everything yellow for eons. Originally it was not used as a spice for cooking, but as a dye, primarily for coloring holy robes.

Turmeric has been mentioned in the Vedas, the ancient Hindu sacred texts. It was associated with purity and cleansing. Even today, orthodox Hindu households will use turmeric water to purify everything from themselves, to objects in the house, to the house itself before a religious event. Along the same lines, Hindu brides and bridegrooms have a ceremony called ʻhaldiʼ (the Hindi word for turmeric and also the name of the ceremony), just before their wedding day.

This yellow-orange rhizome (that is a relative of ginger) is also credited with tons of medicinal uses. It is used as an antiseptic and an anti-inflammatory agent. When a classmate in school cut her finger during a cooking class, a well-meaning friend promptly threw some turmeric on her finger. Good move as far as providing an antiseptic, but bad for the bleeding. As it turns out, turmeric is also an anti-coagulant. Studies show that curcumin, the main flavoring compound in turmeric, is also an anti-oxidant.

Turmeric imparts a rich, ochre yellow to anything it is added to. The mustard so popular on hot dogs gets its color and part of its distinctive flavor from this golden spice. Turmeric is famous for its inclusion in curry powders. Marco Polo noted the following about turmeric when he came across it in 1280: “There is also a vegetable which has all the properties of true saffron, as well the smell and the color, and yet it is not really saffron.” This isnʼt entirely true. Turmeric and saffron can both turn things yellow. The similarity ends there. Saffron is fragrant and enchanting, its flavor elevated and floral. Turmeric smells a bit acrid; Its flavor is earthy, reminiscent of ginger and mustard.

Turmeric in Indian cooking is used primarily in its dry, ground form. Just a small amount is more than enough to convey the ginger-peppery flavor. In some parts of India, turmeric leaves are used to wrap dumplings before steaming. There is a milder flavor and flowery aspect associated with the leaves that is different from the stem from which the powdered spice is derived.

Forming the base on which several dishes can be built, turmeric, along with asafoetida and mustard seeds, are featured in countless recipes from the Indian sub-continent. Lentils, vegetables, meat and fish, all do well with a seasoning of turmeric. One of the simplest dishes featuring turmeric is also the most satisfying. Called kadhi, different regions of India have their own versions; it tends to have a thinner consistency in the south as compared to the north. It can be plain or made with chickpea dumplings (pakoras).

Buttermilk Kadhi

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients:
2 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup chickpea flour (besan)
1/3 tsp asafoetida
1/4 tsp turmeric
3-4 green chillies, split lengthwise (Serrano or Thai chillies)
1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 tsp sugar
Salt to taste
Cilantro for garnish

For seasoning:
2 tbsp clarified butter (ghee) or canola oil
5-6 curry leaves
1 tsp asafoetida
1 tsp cumin

Preparation:

1. In a pot, combine the buttermilk, chickpea flour and 2 cups of water. Stir together to dissolve any lumps.

2. Add sugar, salt, turmeric and asafoetida and mix.

3. Move the pot onto the stove on medium high heat and bring the mixture slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. Add more water to thin it down if the mixture is still too thick. (The ideal consistency would be like tomato soup).

4. When the buttermilk comes to a boil, add the green chillies and ginger.

5. In a separate small pan, heat the ghee or oil to prepare the seasoning. Add mustard seeds (which should begin to splutter if the oil is hot enough) followed by cumin, asafoetida and curry leaves. Continue to heat gently for a few seconds to season the oil or ghee.

6. Pour the spiced oil into the buttermilk mixture. Stir everything to incorporate.

Garnish with some cilantro and serve.

Notes:
Keep stirring the mixture as it starts to boil to prevent the buttermilk from curdling and separating. Once it has reached a boil, the thickening of the chickpea flour keeps the ingredients emulsified. Though oil can be used here, try and use ghee. There is a voluptuousness of flavor that ghee brings to the dish. Also, if using oil, make sure it is neutral tasting like canola or peanut oil. An oil like olive oil tastes too strong and would disrupt the other flavors.

Though traditionally served on steamed rice, kadhi can also be served with chapatis or enjoyed just by itself. It is rare to find this dish in restaurants. This is home-cooking at its most basic. You could try variations by including some carrots or peas in it. Serve with rice and an Indian spiced pickle or papad, to create a simple and nutritious Indian comfort food dish.

The kitchen was always interesting to me as a child because it had a number of things I wasnʼt allowed to touch. My sisters didnʼt have these rules. That is because my mother didnʼt worry that they would kill themselves by trying to eat salt or spices straight out of their tins. My curiosity almost always overshadowed my caution. All that stopped the day I knocked loose a couple of my milk teeth; the day I tried to munch on methi (fenugreek) seeds.

When you look at the squat, rectangular and extremely hard seeds of fenugreek, you may wonder why anyone would take any trouble to work with it. But this unyielding spice is accompanied by a nutty, bitter and mellow flavor that could not be replicated by anything else. It loses some of its toughness when you gently fry or boil it, which also brings out its subtle flavor. The fragrance of the whole spice is a bit woody. But the wheaty, caramel colored seeds release a nutty aroma when cooked. In a spice blend, its flavors meld with the other spice to give the blend a deep bass note.

Due to the tough physical nature of the spice, it finds wide application in its ground form. But its seeds are also popular. A little goes a long way with this spice, as too much can make your meal overwhelmingly bitter. This is especially true if you are using whole seeds.

Fenugreek seeds also have medicinal qualities. As traditional remedies, concoctions of fenugreek are used as an appetite stimulator, in the curing of cough and congestion and prescribed to nursing mothers.

In India, the leaves of the fenugreek plant are used as a fragrant herb when dried and used as greens in their fresh state. The bitterness of the seed is reflected in the fresh leaves. They are very fragrant when they are dried. In the dry form, fenugreek leaves are used in curries and paired with vegetables like peas. They pair especially well with cream-based recipes. The seeds are like a more humble cousin. They too are used in different kinds of curries and in combination with various vegetables like okra and eggplant. The difference is that the seed will form the base of the recipe while the herblike leaves will be sprinkled on top of a dish towards the end of cooking.

Potatoes with coconut and fenugreek seeds

While several dishes use fenugreek seeds, either as part of a spice mix or on its own, the seeds are the star of this recipe along with the very versatile potato. It would be hard to define the roots of this dish. It falls under some semblance of western Indian cooking, but I think the credit lies with my mother-in-law, from whom I got the recipe. Were you to try to look for a similar vegetable recipe, you would most likely end up with several using fenugreek leaves. Like most Indian dishes, this one involves a combination of a few spices but they all come together in celebration of this unassuming seed, which is often relegated to a supporting role.

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients:
4 large yellow or red potatoes
1 cup grated coconut (fresh or frozen)
5 to 6 peppercorns
1/2 tsp tamarind paste
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1/4 tsp asafoetida
1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
4 to 5 curry leaves
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp red chilli powder
1 large tomato, diced
2 to 3 tbsp canola or vegetable oil
Salt to taste

Preparation:
1. Cut potatoes lengthwise into eighths.
2. In a food processor, grind together the coconut, peppercorns and tamarind paste.
3. Heat the oil in a deep pan. To this add the mustard seeds, asafoetida, fenugreek seeds and curry leaves.
4. When the mustard seeds and curry leaves start to splutter, add the potatoes and stir to coat.
5. Add the turmeric and chilli powders and toss the potatoes in it until evenly coated. Fry for a bit.
6. Add the coconut gravy. Stir together and cover the pan to allow the mixture to simmer for a short while.
7. Once the potatoes are just about cooked, add the diced tomato and stir. Add salt.
8. Turn up the heat to bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Then turn the heat down to simmer for five minutes before serving.

Serve with rice or bread.

Notes:
Fenugreek seeds should be lightly roasted. They are horribly bitter and hard to eat when they are subjected to a dark roast. The seeds are readily available in any store that sells spices. Certain grocery stores, like Safeway may sell it in its powdered form. Indian chilli powder is purely ground up dried chillis. That (as well as asafoetida) are available inexpensively in Indian stores. Curry leaves should be available in their freezer section. A good thing to remember is that most Indian stores will sell spices at much more reasonable rates than other stores. Since they are widely used in Indian food, the spices there should also be fresher because of the rapid turnover.

Rule #1 of being a foodie: Never turn down an invitation to a pig roast.
Rule #2 of being a foodie: When invited to said pig roast, bring foods that will complement and heighten the piggy experience.

There are very few foods that can't be made better with a little bit of spicy goodness. And I take great pride in figuring out exactly what spice will work well on each food. Red pepper flakes are great for pasta and soups, but not tacos. I love Patak's chile relish on roast beef, and The Pepper Plant's hot pepper sauce on chicken tacos. Harissa has been playing a large part in my kitchen ever since a good friend made some, and I have found it to be the perfect complement to a bowl of rice with tofu and vegetables.

When I was invited to a pig roast by some good friends this weekend, I tried to figure out the perfect spicy condiment that was going to enhance the pig without overpowering the delicious flavor. I settled on giardiniera, which is a concoction of pickled vegetables marinated with spicy peppers. It is known as sotto aceti in Italian, and features a salad-like mixture of lots of different vegetables: bell pepper, olives, celery, carrots, cauliflower and small onions to name a few. In Italy, it's common to see jars of beautifully arranged pickled vegetables available for purchase in stores. In the U.S., giardiniera is prominently featured as a condiment for Italian beef sandwiches as made in Chicago. I thought the acidity of the giardiniera would go well with the roasted pig, and I was right. Though most of our pork eating involved standing around the pig eating it with our hands, once I got to the buffet and ate the pork with the giardiniera, I thought they went together very well as did many of the guests.

I opted for a simple giardiniera with only cauliflower, carrots and peppers. The recipe can be adjusted to add in any of the aforementioned vegetables, or anything that would do well pickled in a spicy manner. You could let this marinate for as little as a couple of hours, but I think that it tastes best after being pickled for a day or two. I used small peppers that I had pickled over the summer, but you can choose any type of pickled pepper. Many recipes call for heating the vinegar along with the water, sugar and salt. But, as Deb at Smitten Kitchen says, "steamy vinegar is no friend to lungs." To avoid this, I just skipped heating the vinegar altogether and didn't notice any difference in flavor.

Giardiniera

Makes approximately 6 cups

Active preparation time: About 1 hour. Make approximately 2 days before eating.

Ingredients:
1 large head cauliflower, broken into small florets
1 bunch carrots, cut into matchsticks
1 cup pickled peppers, rinsed
1.25 cups white vinegar
.25 cups sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
.5 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

Preparation:
Bring 1.5 cups water to a low boil and add sugar and salt. Stir until sugar and salt are dissolved (about a minute or two). Remove from heat and add in vinegar, mustard seeds and red pepper flakes. Set aside and allow the pickling liquid to cool.

Blanch cauliflower by bringing a large pot of water to a boil, adding the cauliflower and cooking for approximately 3-4 minutes, then removing from boiling water into an ice-water bath. Repeat for the carrots, cooking for approximately 2-3 minutes. After cauliflower and carrots have cooled completely, remove from ice water to a 2-quart container. Add pickled peppers and mix.

Pour pickling liquid over vegetables. Use an inverted plate to weight vegetables so they are submersed in liquid. Cover and refrigerate. After a day, taste and adjust seasonings as necessary (at this point, I originally added more pepper flakes). Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

Elsewhere on the web:
Giardiniera by Smitten Kitchen
Vegetables Giardiniera on Epicurious

Related links on BAB:
Pig on a Spit

Around here, we often tell you about books that have just been published. Perusing my bookshelf yesterday, I realized that the new books are often not the ones that I turn to again and again. Sure, some of them become essential but many of them lose their luster and are never used again.

Starting today, I am going to occasionally try and let you know some of the books that are important to me that are neither new nor shiny. They're the everyday soldiers of my library that are used again and again.

A few years ago, I noticed an old, cracked book on the bookshelf of a friend's mom. As soon as I picked it up, I knew that I had to get my own copy. Herbs, Spices and Flavorings was originally published in 1982 and was written by Tom Stobart. Stobart went on to produce and direct the Master Chef series on the BBC.

Herbs, Spices and Flavorings is largely a research text in paperback form. I've used it often to satisfy my curiousity about a particular ingredient, or to learn more about the way food is flavored. It has entries for every herb and spice that you can think of, as well as interesting sections for things like Khas-Khas (an aromatic herb grown in hot climates and used to flavor sherbets), fishy flavors (a two page entry describing the importance of these flavors to some cultures), and Harvey's Sauce (an old English sauce that is similar to Worcestershire sauce, but without any heat).

This is not a book that is necessary for new chefs learning to boil water. But if you're like me and spend a lot of time thinking about food, perusing recipes just for fun, and wondering how to dissect flavors within restaurant dishes, this is a book that you would most likely enjoy.

Learning the true shape of our food sometimes comes as a surprise. The challenge of carrying ingredients across time and distance plus the reality of everyday cooking has transformed the look, feel and -- most importantly -- taste of many foods.

That dry, yellow powder known here as turmeric is certainly one of them.

Looking at a little bottle of it in the supermarket, it's hard to believe that this cousin of ginger boasts the same family's gracefully arched leaves and large, stunning blossoms. There are many varieties grown in India, from where nearly all the world's supply comes. Turmeric's fragrant bite and intensely golden hue make it a key ingredient in the cuisine and culture of Asia's southern and southeastern regions. It's applied as an effective antibacterial tonic in Ayurvedic medicine, simmered in peppery Burmese soups and infused into golden cones of nasi kuning at Indonesian weddings.

Many foods more familiar to Westerners, say ballpark mustard and certain cheeses, also gain their yellow hue from turmeric. It's often dismissed, unfairly, as a lesser substitute for saffron by those who haven't tried it in its whole, fresh form or who aren't familiar with its native, rather than derivative, uses. The Royal Botanical Kew Gardens maintains an excellent website where you can learn more about the ancient history, botany, medicinal uses and spiritual traditions of turmeric.

Selecting and Storing

Look for the slim, orange rhizomes of fresh turmeric in the produce section of Asian and Indian markets, in small bags near where the herbs are sold. Buy rhizomes with bright, smooth peels, avoiding any with soft spots, dark bruises or dried out tips. They freeze well and grate easily while still frozen. Just immerse what you need in some warm water for a few minutes, than proceed to peel and grate.

For each teaspoon of dry turmeric in a recipe, substitute about 1 inch of fresh turmeric. Peel the thin outer layer by gently scraping with the edge of a spoon's bowl, and then grate the rhizome finely with a microplane or a ginger grater. It's best to bring out the color and flavor of the fresh rhizome with a quick stir in some hot oil.

Some simple ways to enjoy turmeric:

- Use it in any curry recipe that calls for dry, ground turmeric, adding it to the pan after the dry spices have been toasted or stirring with other aromatics that are cooked in oil.

- To dress up leftover rice: Saute grated turmeric, minced garlic, salt and a generous amount of black pepper in hot oil until fragrant and golden. Stir in a few tablespoons of coconut milk. Add cooked rice and stir until evenly coated. Serve hot. For a special meal, transfer the rice to banana leaves and steam for 20 minutes.

- To make a lovely Burmese soup: Stir several crushed garlic cloves, a small amount of paprika and half a teaspoon of grated turmeric into a couple cups of chicken broth. Simmer for 10 to 20 minutes, then add thinly sliced seasonal vegetables such as daikon, chayote, spinach, mustard greens, watercress or even carrots. Season to taste with salt and a generous grinding of black pepper, then sprinkle with chopped cilantro or scallions just before serving.

- For a refreshing cucumber sauce over fried or grilled fish: Halve lengthwise 2 or 3 small, pickling cucumbers or 1/2 of a hothouse cucumber. Scoop out seeds and cut into thick slices. Stir grated turmeric and onions in hot oil until fragrant and bright golden. Add chopped garlic and finely shredded ginger, then stir in the cucumbers, 1/2 cup of stock and, optionally, a spoonful of coconut milk. Simmer just until the cucumbers are warmed through, then transfer to serving bowl or pour over cooked fish.

- The next time you're at an Indian market, look for turmeric pickles tucked in among the other mango, lime and eggplant pickles. One of my favorites!

- To brighten your own favorite salsa, chutney or pickles: Grate turmeric, then heat it in the oil or a small amount of the liquid used in the recipe or even a bit of the pickling brine from purchased pickles. Stir well with other ingredients.

- Experiment with this natural food coloring by slipping a bit into any recipe that calls for ginger. You never know, that bright, new dish might become a classic from your kitchen.