• Bay Area Bites

  • Culinary Rants & Raves from Bay Area Foodies and Professionals

Posts Tagged ‘seasonal vegetables’


Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011

Tender - Nigel SlaterWe may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.

By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even éminences grises like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? Moreish, because whatever it is, you must have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll.

Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)

And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes,

"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me."

Slater, a longtime columnist for The Observer and the author of 10 cookbooks, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, The Kitchen Diaries, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae.

Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks.

On spinach:

"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor."

On carrots:

"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it)."

On cauliflower:

"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again."

On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:

"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage."

Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.

Despite the too-many snails who "have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings," he's still a sucker for aesthetics. "I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow," he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point.

Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out." (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. "Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.")

The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like A Soup the Color of Marigolds (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds; and Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say.

posted by | posted in books, magazines, newspapers, cookbooks, gardening and urban farming, reviews | 2 Comments
tags: , , , , , , ,

Zucchini Happiness: Four Ways

Saturday, July 26th, 2008

organic squashI love this time of year. It’s often a bit warmer out, the kids are out of school, and zucchinis are in season. Although you can easily get zucchinis all year long, they just aren’t as fresh when shipped from hundreds of miles away (usually from Mexico) in the winter. As a fan of this versatile squash variety, I have been indulging in its seasonality, purchasing and eating it pretty much every week, all summer long. I prefer to buy zucchini at my local farmer’s market, where there are a range of varieties (light green, dark green, with a ribbed exterior, with yellow stripes, and the list goes on) that are usually just-picked and on the small side. They are also pretty easy to grow at home.

Zucchini is best barely cooked. Baked, fried, or simmered too long, and it looses its moisture content and becomes soggy. Al dente and raw zucchini recipes highlight the squash’s naturally subtle sweetness and crisp texture. It's unfortunate that so many people overcook their vegetables anyway, but with zucchini, it is -- as my mother would say -- a sin because you lose its innate nutty sweetness. Following are four of my favorite recipes which I think capture the summer flavor of zucchini best. I hope you like them.

zucchini flowers

The first recipe uses zucchini flowers, which are usually available at your local farmer’s market, or you can grow them yourself. Sweet and earthy, with a light texture, these are really the perfect vehicles for containing soft cheeses I recently made this dish on a few separate occasions, once using goat cheese, another time ricotta and the third time with brie. Eaten on its own, or in crusty bread as a sandwich, these little morsels epitomize summer.

raw zucchini salad

The second recipe is for a raw zucchini salad. It is simplicity incarnate. When made with just picked squash, the tenderness of the vegetable meat creates a subtle flavor that beautifully pairs with the sweetness of vine-ripened cherry tomatoes. And, with only splash of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and a sprinkling of salt, the freshness of the zucchini is the real star.

fried zucchini salad

The third recipe is my mother’s favorite. Just thinly slice zucchini and lightly sauté it in extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle on some red wine vinegar and salt and then serve room temperature or chilled. It’s a great alternative to a standard dinner salad. When I was a kid, my mom would eat so many freshly fried zucchini pieces fresh out of the pan that our salads were often on the small side, so be sure to cut up enough slices.

zucchini calzone

Finally, my daughters’ new favorite dinner: zucchini calzones. This is a take on the standard spinach pie. Accompanied with fresh ricotta cheese, mozzarella, and Parmesan and then stuffed into fresh pizza dough and baked, it’s a little pillow of happiness.

Oh, zucchini. How do I love thee. Let me count the ways…

frying zucchini flowers

Stuffed Zucchini Flowers

Serves: 4-6 as an Appetizer or Makes 2-4 Sandwiches

Ingredients:
12 Zucchini Flowers
8 oz. Goat cheese, ricotta cheese, or brie
1 Tbsp Basil chopped (optional)
1 Egg
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
1. Soak flowers in a bowl of water and thoroughly rinse the inside of each one by gently opening them. When finished, pat flowers dry and lightly salt.
2. Mix cheese with some salt and pepper to taste and add the basil (if using).
3. Fill each flower with enough cheese to cover the inside width, being sure not to overfill, and then twist the petals to close it.
4. Scramble the egg, season it with some salt and pepper, and then dip each stuffed flower in the egg.
5. In a medium to large pan, heat enough olive oil to cover the bottom about a 1/4-inch deep.
6. When pan is hot (but not scalding), add the egg-dipped flowers and sauté on each side until golden brown.
7. Drain on paper and serve either as an appetizer or in Italian bread as a sandwich.

Raw Zucchini Salad with Tomatoes

Serves: 4

Ingredients:
4 smallish or 2 large zucchinis
A half pint of cherry tomatoes
Extra virgin olive oil (the good stuff, if you have it)
About a half lemon
Kosher or sea salt

Preparation:
1. Wash zucchini and grate it using the coarse side of your cheese grater.
2. Set zucchini in a bowl and sprinkle on enough olive oil to lightly coat. Squeeze on the lemon juice and season with salt.
3. Divide zucchini onto salad plates, lay the tomatoes on top, and serve.

Fried Zucchini Salad

Serves: 2-4

Ingredients:
4 Medium zucchinis
Extra virgin olive oil
Red Wine Vinegar
Salt to taste

Preparation:
1. Cut zucchinis into 1/4-inch slices.
2. In a medium to large pan, heat enough olive oil to cover the bottom about a 1/4-inch deep.
3. When the oil is medium-high heat (but not scalding), cook the zucchini slices in batches until golden brown on each side.
4. Remove the zucchini from the pan and lay in a platter. Sprinkle on enough red wine vinegar to lightly coat the zucchini.
5. Season with salt and serve either room temperature or chilled.

making zucchini calzones

Zucchini Calzones

Makes: 6 calzones

Ingredients:
4 Medium zucchinis
Extra virgin olive oil
1 lb Fresh pizza dough, rested at room temperature
8 oz Fresh ricotta cheese
4 oz Freshly grated mozzarella
2 oz Freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Wash zucchini and grate it using the coarse side of your cheese grater.
3. Place ricotta in a bowl and season with some salt and pepper. Set grated mozzarella and grated Parmesan next to the ricotta so you have an assembly line of cheese ready to go. Oil a large baking sheet and set at the end of the assembly line.
4. In a large pan on medium to high heat, add 1 Tbsp olive oil and add zucchini when the pan is hot.
5. Salt zucchini and then sauté on high heat so it crisps a little on the ends. Cook until al dente.
6. Meanwhile, divide dough into 6 equal pieces. Spread some flour on a counter top or cutting board and then stretch each piece into a round circle, thinning (but not ripping) the dough as you gently tug it.
7. When the dough is about the size of your hand, set about a 1/8 - 1/4 cup of zucchini inside it, along with an equal measure of ricotta, about 2 Tbsp grated mozzarella and a sprinkling of Parmesan.
8. Fold the dough over the fillings and press the ends tight so there aren’t any leaks. Set each piece on the oiled pan when finished.
9. Rub olive oil on top of the calzones and then set in the preheated oven for about 20 minutes, or until golden and crispy.
10. Serve all hot and gooey.

posted by | posted in recipes | 2 Comments
tags: , ,

Subscribe to BABrss posts

BAB Archives

  • Calendar

  • February 2012
    M T W T F S S
    « Jan    
     12345
    6789101112
    13141516171819
    20212223242526
    272829  
  • Sponsored by