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Eating in Atlanta + Quality Time With a Top Chef Master

Saturday, July 9th, 2011

Pulled Pork BBQ plate from Sweet Auburn BBQ truck
Pulled Pork BBQ plate from Sweet Auburn BBQ truck

I'd never been to Atlanta, but I've always heard great things: the Southern hospitality, the quaint neighborhoods, and the fabulous food. After experiencing it for myself, I'm happy to say that all three points hold very true.

After traveling there for the BlogHer Food Conference in May, I got the opportunity during my brief downtime to hunt down a few raved about eateries. I got my barbecue fix from the Sweet Auburn BBQ food truck. After tasting their Asian Pear Coleslaw and Pulled Pork, I realized that, unfortunately, nothing in the Bay Area could possibly compare.

I visited a restaurant called, Wisteria, in the picturesque Inman Park area of town. They served classic yet modernized Southern dishes like Fried Catfish with Succotash, Crab Cakes, and some of the best Macaroni and Cheese I've ever had (with braised greens!).

Various doughnuts from Sublime Doughnuts in Atlanta
Various doughnuts from "Sublime Doughnuts" in Atlanta

I also had my morning sugar rush thanks to the folks at Sublime Doughnuts. Their sugary varieties included red velvet, chocolate coconut, white chocolate peach, s'mores and mocha cream. Dunkin' Donuts had nothin' on these guys.

But my favorite eatery had to be Empire State South. With its bocce ball court outside, casual settings and service, and playful yet sophisticated take on Southern classics, it was the best meal I’d had in Atlanta.

They start your meal with some good old housemade yeast rolls and grilled sourdough (perhaps a nod to Top Chef Master and Owner, Hugh Acheson's time as a sous chef at Gary Danko in the late 90s?). The yeast rolls were so sweet, soft, and classically Southern. They were so good it took everything in me not to ask for more. I knew we had a lot of good eats to come so I was pacing myself.

Soft Poached Egg from Empire State South. Photo courtesy of Beth Lee of OMGYummy.net
Soft Poached Egg from "Empire State South" (Photo courtesy of Beth Lee of OMGYummy.net)

We ordered a variety of appetizers and entrees for the table, including the Soft Poached Egg with wild nettles and grits; Crisp Pork Belly with kimchi grits; Wild Ramps with corned beef tongue and field peas served in a mini cast iron skillet; and the Ramp Orecchiette with carrots, peas and some beautiful fiddlehead ferns.

Everything we had was exceptional. The whole "farm to table" movement is really gaining steam there, and the freshness and imaginative use of all that wonderful produce was proof of that. The eggs and grits were rich and creamy, and the pasta was fresh, light and bright. All the combinations on each plate were inventive, classically southern (plenty of butter and bold flavors), but sophisticated. There was even a touch of Asian fusion in some of the dishes (the pork belly definitely had some soy sauce flavors going on).

But boy were we glad we ordered an extra helping of those amazing Kimchi Rice Grits. It was simply one of the most memorable dishes I've ever tasted...anywhere. The texture was like a thicker rice porridge or congee, but with more flavor and less soupy. And the kimchi gave the dish so much punch and flavor but never overpowered. I wish someone would replicate it in the Bay Area!

Cake from Empire State South. Photo courtesy of Beth Lee of OMGYummy.net
Peanuts and Coke Soft Serve w/Funnel Cake from "Empire State South" (Photo courtesy of Beth Lee of OMGYummy.net)

Before we ordered our Peanuts and Coke Soft Serve with Funnel Cake for dessert, Owner and Top Chef Master contestant, Chef Hugh Acheson came over to pay our table a visit and even sat down for a nice long chat with us. After he realized I was from the Bay Area, he talked about his time working for the now shuttered Mecca restaurant, and as opening sous-chef for Gary Danko back in the 90s. "I learned a lot while I was there, but he was a tyrant. He'd be the first to admit it, though," he said of Danko.

I also got to experience Chef Acheson's wickedly dry sense of humor, which unfortunately didn’t get enough airtime on Top Chef Master. He'll be the first to mention what he calls his "monobrow," which he's been getting known for since the show started. "Somebody on Twitter told me I should shave my monobrow. They don't even know me! Maybe they should focus on my food." But he'll be the first to laugh at himself, even mentioning what he calls "The Monobrow Preservation Society" frequently on his Twitter account.

My experience meeting Chef Acheson was indicative of my time in Atlanta. People there are ready to sit down and chat, have a good time, and take pride in all their city has to offer. I love San Francisco and it's always been home, but I miss my taste of Southern hospitality.


Sweet Auburn BBQ truck

Facebook: Sweet Auburn BBQ
Twitter: @SweetAuburnBBQ
Various hours & locations

Sublime Doughnuts
Address: 535 Tenth Street Northwest, Atlanta, GA 30318
Phone: (404) 897-1801
Facebook:Sublime Doughnuts
Twitter: @SublimeDoughnut

Wisteria
Address: 471 North Highland Ave., Atlanta, GA. 30307
Phone: (404) 525-3363
Facebook: Wisteria Restaurant
Twitter: @wisteriaatlanta

Empire State South
Address: 999 Peachtree Street, Atlanta, GA 30309
Phone: (404) 541-1105
Facebook: Empire State South
Twitter: @ESSouth

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Butternut Squash Polenta: Meat-lovers v. Vegetarians

Wednesday, February 9th, 2011

Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork
Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork

I'm a huge fan of polenta. It's rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. I almost always add a nice handful of cheese to the mix (think cheesey grits), sometime I wilt some spinach or arugula into it to boost the health quotient, or my latest favorite add-in has been roasted butternut squash. The sweet caramelized squash marries well with the wholesome sweet cornmeal.

Not only is polenta delicious, it is also very forgiving, as I learned from Joyce Goldstein, who taught me how to make a pumpkin polenta with pork and chestnut stew. As Goldstein says, unlike risotto, which you have to serve right away, polenta you can baby, and keep it on the stove until you're ready.

Another reason I love polenta so much is for its versatility. You can serve it freshly made, while it has the consistency of warm pudding. Or, you can chill it in a baking sheet, and then cut it out into shapes (squares, triangles, strips, rounds, whatever you desire) to pan fry into the best leftovers you've ever had.

For my freshly made version, I paired my butternut squash polenta with a deceptively easy pulled pork. I started with a lean and inexpensive cut of pork tenderloin, and seared it off so that a nice golden crust formed on both sides. Then, the aromatics (onion and garlic) and spices (chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne) are introduced. The cinnamon and cumin in particular add a great smoky-sweet dimension, while the chili and cayenne bring some heat. Now for the tang. Ketchup and apple cider vinegar create the acidity that really flavors the meat. The pork is shredded and then left to simmer in the sauce. The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for this tangy, saucy pulled pork.

Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread
Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread

Now, for the leftover polenta! Pan-fried polenta cakes make for the perfect hors d'oeuvres because you can top them with virtually anything. I love topping my butternut squash polenta cakes with a roasted veggie spread made with eggplant, red peppers, red onion, and tomato paste.

Best of all, you can make this dish ahead of time. The veggie spread can be whirred up the day before and kept in the fridge. And, the polenta cakes can even be cut up ahead of time and kept under plastic wrap. When you're ready to assemble, simply dust the polenta cakes with a flour/cornstarch mix to make sure they get a nice crust, and you're good to go.

If the idea of jockeying for a reservation at an expensive restaurant on 2/14 makes you cringe, why not spend Valentine's Day at home and cozy up to a romantic meal made with love. Whether it's a homey dish of Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork, or a fancy looking appetizer of Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread, polenta will be sure to earn you some big points with your honey.

*****

Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork
The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for the tangy, saucy pulled pork.

Serves: 6-8

For the Pulled Pork
Recipe adapted from the Food Network.

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound, cut into 4 pieces

Preparation:

  1. In a large pot heat the oil over medium heat. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add the pork to the pot and sear both sides, flipping only once so that a nice golden crust forms. Remove the pork and set aside.
  2. Add the onion and garlic to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook until softened and lightly browned (about 5 minutes). Add the chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until toasted (1 minute more).
  3. Stir in the broth, ketchup, vinegar, and brown sugar. Bring to a simmer and add the pork. Simmer, covered, until the pork is just cooked through and tender (about 20 minutes).
  4. Remove the pork to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes. Increase the heat on the remaining sauce in the pot to medium-high and cook until thickened (about 5 minutes). Remove from the heat.
  5. Shred the pork with two forks into large chunks and add back into the thickened sauce. Toss well to coat. Let stand 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, to let the pork absorb the sauce.

For the Polenta
Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)
7 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper

Preparation:

  1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
  2. Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.
  3. Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.
  4. Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.

Note: To make polenta cakes with leftovers, spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready cut into shapes and pan fry.

*****
Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread
If you've already refrigerated your leftover polenta, skip to Step 6.

Serves: 8-10 (as an appetizer)

For the Polenta
Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)
7 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper
1/2 cup flour + 2 tablespoons cornstarch
oil for frying

Preparation:

  1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
  2. Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.
  3. Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.
  4. Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.
  5. Spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
  6. Cut the polenta out in squares.
  7. Dust both sides with the flour/cornstarch mixture.
  8. Heat up some oil in a frying pan and fry the polenta squares, flipping once, so that a browned crust forms on each side.
  9. Cut into triangles, top with a spoonful of Roasted Veggie Spread, and sprinkle with grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.

For the Roasted Veggie Spread
Recipe adapted from Ina Garten.

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients:
1 medium eggplant
2 red bell peppers, seeded
1 red onion, peeled
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste

Preparation:

  1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
  2. Cut the eggplant, bell pepper, and onion into 1-inch cubes. Toss them in a large bowl with the garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet.
  3. Roast for 45 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned and soft, tossing once during cooking. Cool slightly.
  4. Place the vegetables in a food processor, add the tomato paste, and blend until everything is pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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Pulled Pork Sandwiches

Thursday, January 29th, 2009

Pulled Pork SandwichTangy barbecue sauce dripping over slow-cooked pork on a bun. Yum. I freely admit that I am a fan of all things pork. I love pork chops, bacon, and roast loin, not to mention all those sausages. But there's something astonishing about taking one of the least expensive cuts of pork you can buy and turning it into one of the tenderest and juiciest sandwiches you can eat. Ah -- the miracle of pork.

When you're having a large group of people over, pulled pork sandwiches are a great menu option. In addition to the dish being pretty cost effective, it takes very little prep time and even less hands-on cooking time to make. But forget the pragmatic reasons. The real rationale behind making pulled pork is its crowd appeal -- it’s just one of those dishes that people get excited about eating. Although it’s not something most of us have on a regular basis, pork sandwiches laden with tasty barbecue sauce is a treat few would turn down.

Although traditional pulled pork is often cooked in a smoker or slowly barbecued with wood chips, I like to let mine roast at a leisurely pace in a covered pan in the oven. I don’t own a smoker and am more comfortable using my oven than the barbecue, so this works well for me. I also love the way the house smells while the meat cooks. I realize this method of preparing pulled pork would be sacrilege to anyone who grew up in the South, but I’m not a Southerner, so I am a peace with my technique.

There are a few essentials to making a great pulled pork sandwich that should not be overlooked.

1. The meat should sit overnight, or for at least 3-4 hours, with a rub on it before you cook it. This both flavors and tenderizes the meat.

2. You need to make a nice cider vinegar sauce to pour over the pork. Although some recipes say you can use store-bought barbecue sauce, apple cider vinegar gives the dish its tangy signature flavor. It’s also easy and fast to make, so please whip it up yourself.

3. Serving the pork on fluffy white bread rolls is key to the final result. White hamburger buns will suffice, but anything made from whole wheat or with a crunchy crust should be avoided. The pork just tastes better when nestled into doughy white rolls soaked with sauce.

So if you're up for some porky goodness, here's a recipe you might try.

Pulled Pork

Makes enough meat for 12 -14 sandwiches

Ingredients:
3-4 lbs pork butt
1 Tbsp salt
½ cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp chili Powder
1 Tbsp paprika
1 Tbsp onion powder
1 Tbsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried celery seed
1 tsp dried ground mustard seed
1 tsp Black pepper

Note: I sometimes use 1 Tbsp chili powder and 1 Tbsp chipotle powder

Preparation:
1. Combine all ingredients except the pork butt in a bowl and mix thoroughly.
2. Set pork butt on a baking dish or plate and cover with the rub on all side. Gently massage the rub into the meat.
3. Cover the meat and set it in the refrigerator overnight or up to 3-4 hours.
4. When you're ready to start cooking, place your pork in a large Le Creuset dutch oven with the top on, or cover your baking dish tightly with foil.
5. Set the dish into the oven, which should be preheated to 350 degrees (325 if using a convection oven).
6. Bake for at least 3 hours without disturbing. Try to avoid taking the cover off the pan to check the meat as you’ll release steam each time you do this, and you need the steam to help keep the roast moist and juicy while it cooks.
7. After your three hours are up, take the meat out of the oven and set it on a dish to rest for 5-10 minutes.
8. Then, start breaking the meat up into small pieces. If your pork butt was tied with butcher string, be sure to remove the string before you start doing this step. I use two forks to break the meat up. Just place the tines into the meat and pull (yes, it really is pulled pork). The meat should easily separate.
9. Heat your buns in the already warmed oven for about five minutes.
10. Place a healthy scoop of pork on each bun and top with the sauce. Serve.

Pulled Pork Cider Vinegar Sauce

Ingredients:
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup ketchup
2/3 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup molasses
1 tsp dried yellow mustard
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper (or as much as you’d like)
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
1. Combine all ingredients in a pot and mix thoroughly.
2. Heat until the sauce starts to bubble and then simmer for at least ten minutes on low.
3. Add salt and pepper to taste. You may also wish to add more cayenne pepper.
4. Serve with pulled pork sandwiches.

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