Photo Credit: Michele Hood

Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant (@coirestaurant) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook "at least for a little while" for the Plum lunch debut. Bay Area Bites caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.

In 1994 Patterson opened Babette's, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him "Best New Chef" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of "Rising Star Chef" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened Elisabeth Daniel in San Francisco, which was nominated "Best New Restaurant" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named "Chef of the Year" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.

With natural perfumer Mandy Aftel (aftelier.com), he wrote "Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance" in 2004. His bio says that "It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context."

Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home "a lot" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. "I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns."

THE WISH LIST
Patterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's "My wish list, for when I get a day off":

• Benu
• Commis
• Flour & Water
• Commonwealth: "I've never been."
• Frances: "Unbelievably, I've never been there."

FAMILY TIME
The chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. "Most of the places we go our geared to (our son)." First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: "Usually, we get pizza from Pizzaiolo or Boot & Shoe. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific."

Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's Camino Restaurant, which "is geographically close to where we live." Patterson will generally order "whatever they have on the menu."

In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot Aziza, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: "Let (Chef) Mourad cook."

Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at Nopa and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at Nopalito. Patterson said both restaurants are "sensational."

For Southern-Italian food and wine, A16 is another San Francisco favorite. "We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore."

SWEETS
James Freeman's Blue Bottle "has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special."

Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's Jake Godby used to do pastry work at Coi.

June Taylor Preserves hit the sweet spot: "We always have some of these at home."

DRINKS
Bar Agricole "is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite."

"I love the drinks at Slanted Door. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing."

ON READING
Having a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that "I've done a lot of book events this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research."

He did cite Harold McGee's new Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it "fantastic." Daniel has written for the New York Times, Food & Wine, London Financial Times and San Francisco Magazine. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.

Where does Craig Stoll like to shop and eat in the Bay Area? Stoll cued Bay Area Bites into his top picks via a recent email interview. He is the chef-owner of Delfina and Delfina Pizzeria(s), a growing mini-empire of San Francisco based Italian restaurants. He and his wife Annie Stoll live in the Mission in San Francisco with their eight year old daughter, Lucy. Stoll said,

"(We) love to be part of the neighborhood in which we work and own a business and where most of our staff live." He added that as a family unit, the Stolls like to hang out at home "when we can find the time," and that "family dinner is the best."

Speculation on the Stolls next restaurant venture continues to fuel the chatter; and the Twitterverse went into high alert mode when Craig tweeted "Waitin here at SFO for our flight to Mexico for a little R&D...Did I say that? I meant R&R" on April 3rd. It was later revealed on various outlets that the Stolls are definitely taking over the Ramblas space on Valencia, for what may be a Roman food concept, expected to open in late spring or early this summer.

The Stolls opened Delfina together in 1998, and have attracted prime time crowds, as well as later adding two Delfina Pizzeria locations. Chances of getting a coveted sidewalk table or even parking spot in front of the 18th Street Delfina Pizzeria vary wildly, but the promise of a gourmet Napoletana (tomato, anchovies, capers, hot peppers, olives, and oregano) pizza pie with a side of greens in a Insalata Tricolore salad with Grana Padano cheese generally make it a worth the effort. If you can't afford that trip to Rome or the East Coast, this is a nice staycation meal City option. The service and Italian fare are a combined effort for the couple, with Craig running the food and kitchen operations and Annie handling everything else. This blogger does occasional catering for Bi-Rite Market, and prepped with some of Stoll's cooks for the 18th Street Block Party in 2008.

Here are Craig Stoll's picks for where to shop and eat. His main source for food may be the one with the easiest access. Stoll confessed that "I often shop out of the walk-in cooler at Delfina," which sounds like as good a FIFO (first in, first out) inventory system as any. Stoll's comments have been edited for content and brevity.

Shopping Spots: Bi-Rite & La Palma.

Bi-Rite Market
3639 18th Street (between Dolores Street and Guerrero Street) Map
(415) 241-9760
Hours: Daily 9:00 am to 9:00 pm
Closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas Days.

Stoll: "Unbelievably vibrant. Best market anywhere-across the board; meat, fish and produce. (It's) constantly evolving, improving, expanding. (I’m) always blown away."

La Palma
2884 24th Street (between Florida Street and Bryant Street) Map
(415) 647-1500
Hours: Monday - Saturday 8am to 6pm
Sunday 8am to 5pm

Stoll: "We live down the street and stop in for ingredients or prepared food."

Eating Spots: Thep Phenom, Bistro Aix, (Anonymous) Mission Taco Trucks, Swan Oyster Depot, Nopa and Nopalito, Out the Door, Sunflower, Saigon Sandwich, Limon Rotisserie, Spruce and Zuni.

Thep Phanom
400 Waller Street (at Fillmore Street) Map
(415) 431-2526
Hours: Daily 5:30pm to 10:30 pm

Stoll: "When we come back from a family trip we always go to Thep Phanom or Bistro Aix. We have a taco truck at either end of our block. (I) don't want to admit how often I eat there."

Bistro Aix
3340 Steiner Street (between Chestnut Street and Lombard Street) Map
(415) 202-0100
Hours: Monday - Thursday 6:30pm to 10pm
Friday - Saturday 5:30pm to 11pm
Sunday 5:30pm to 9:30pm

Swan Oyster Depot
1517 Polk Street (between California Street and Sacramento Street) Map
(415) 673-1101
Hours: Monday - Saturday 8am to 5:30pm

Stoll: Swan Oyster Depot is "classic and timeless, irony-free."

Nopa
560 Divisadero Street (at Hayes Street) Map
(415) 864-8643
Hours: Monday - Sunday 6pm to close

Nopalito
306 Broderick Street (between Oak Street and Fell Street) Map
(415) 437-0303
Hours: Monday - Sunday 11am to 10pm

Out the Door Ferry Building
1 Ferry Building (Stall #5) Map
(415) 321-3740
Hours: Monday – Saturday 10:30am to 6pm
Closed Sunday

Stoll: "Daughter Lucy is a pho/spring roll fanatic. (We go to) Out the Door, (or) Sunflower in a pinch."

Sunflower
3111 16th Street (at Valencia Street) Map
(415) 626-5022
Hours: Monday - Friday 11:30am to close
Saturday - Sunday 12:30pm to close

Saigon Sandwich
560 Larkin Street (between Eddy Street and Turk Street) Map
(415) 474-5698
Hours: Monday - Saturday 6am to 6pm
Sunday 7am to 5pm

Stoll: "(I go to) Saigon Sandwich whenever I can."

Limon Rotisserie
1001 S. Van Ness Street (between 21st Street and 22nd Street) Map
(415) 821-2134
Hours: Sunday - Thursday 12pm to 10pm
Friday - Saturday 12:30pm to 10:30pm

Stoll: "(We get) take out from Limon Rotisserie."

Spruce
3640 Sacramento Street (between Locust Street and Spruce Street) Map
(415) 931-5100
Hours: Monday - Friday 11:30am to 2:30 pm
Monday – Thursday & Sunday 5pm to 10 pm
Friday - Sunday 5pm to 11pm

For date night, the Stolls go to "Spruce when we want to feel coddled. Zuni's up the street. We always have a list of new places we want to try."

Zuni Café
1658 Market Street (between Franklin and Gough) Map
(415) 553-2522
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday 11:30 am to 11 pm
Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to midnight
Sunday 11:00 am to 11:00 pm | Closed Monday

Lattes at Matching Half Cafe

So I moved to the city a few weeks ago. After enduring many sweaty hours of I can't imagine anything I'd rather be doing less, I've vowed never to move out of my apartment for as long as I shall live. Yes, the size of the kitchen will take a little getting used to, and I may never have a grown-up dinner party. But moving is just no fun. Getting the couch up the four flights of stairs was an unspeakable feat. That being said, I've put it all behind me and am settling in just fine: finding my favorite grocery store, getting the bus route figured out, exploring yoga studios to find one I like and--of course--drinking lots of coffee.

Now the Internet's a pretty big part of my life since I do a lot of writing from home. And since Comcast rarely works with anyone's ideal schedule, they couldn't come out for five days after I moved in, so I set out researching some free Wi-Fi which brought me to the following neighborhood gems in the NOPA/Western Addition neighborhood. While the free Wi-Fi is what initially attracted me to these coffee shops, I love each for different reasons and still go frequently despite the fact that the wireless is up and kickin' at home.

The Matching Half

Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe

The Matching Half is one of those places I'm excited to bring people to. Yes, come and check out the new digs, and I'll take you to my new favorite coffee place. Those are words I've uttered numerous times in the last few weeks. And before telling you all about how rad it is, a quick disclaimer for the laptop crowd: there are very few outlets, so if you've got a laptop battery that's hanging on for dear life, this may not be the best choice. However, it's great for so many other reasons, and I'm almost hesitant to talk about it because I like its tucked-away, not-too-crowded, neighborhood appeal. I appreciate places that pay close attention to each detail, from the lovely ceramic cups to the metal bar, to the stark but warm industrial space. I love the menu penned on craft paper. I love the vivid, industrial painting by Mike Shankman.

When not working, settling into one of the window-side tables is prime people watching territory. There are dog walkers, young families buying treats and hanging at the outdoor tables, and runners cruising towards the Panhandle. And the coffee: this is not quick in-out-and-on-with-your-life coffee. It really is slowly and carefully prepared and it shows. The lattes are beautiful and strong, and they have numerous single-origin drip coffees brewed to order. They also have a small but nice selection of breakfast pastries (the croissants are buttery, flaky goodness), sandwiches and salads.

And while I haven't had the pleasure of having a glass of beer or wine--it's sure to happen in the coming week. They do happy hour specials from 4pm-6pm daily, and have some interesting bottles of beer available. Like Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout and PBR in a bottle. Right now they actually have a breakfast panino and PBR special. I can't say that I've ever had PBR in a bottle and I definitely haven't had PBR for breakfast...but here's to a new home and new beginnings, perhaps PBR and all.

The Matching Half
1799 McAllister (@Baker), San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 674-8699
Hours: Mon.-Thurs.: 7am-7pm; Fri. 7am-10pm; Sat. 8am-10pm; Sun. 8am-6pm.
Cash only.

Café Abir

Storefront of local favorite, Café Abir

Café Abir prides itself on roasting their own coffee daily in their micro-roasting machine. They make a rock-solid Americano and a nice, strong latte. But so do many places in the city. So what sets Café Abir apart? What I like is their varied workspace: they have a giant, communal table along with raised round tables with red velour booths that feel like little work nooks. They play good 80's music: I've been sitting here writing for the past hour and there's been some classic Heart, Bruce Springsteen and Men at Work. Good stuff. And they also have tons of individually wrapped treats, from slices of cake, to apricot bars and chocolate-dipped Rice Krispie bars. I'll admit, before I'd stocked the kitchen and actually gotten a feel for the 'hood, I had my fair share of their giant Rice Krispie treats.

Café Abir serves Numi tea, and a few different selections of beer and wine. In the evening, I've seen couples having a bottle of beer, presumably before heading out to one of the bars nearby. The red velour couches are that good--and when it's warm enough, the outdoor tables are prime for Divisadero people watching. So while there are dozens of incredible coffee joints around town, I'm thankful Abir's close by, and that they're open a bit later than most.

Café Abir
300 Fulton Street (@ Divisidero)
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 567-6503
Hours: Daily, 6am-10pm
Cash only.

Apollo Coffee

A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee

When I first moved in, Apollo had a sign on the front door that they'd be closed for the next week. I wasn’t sure if this was because of the construction on Divisadero or because post-holiday business is just darn slow, and it's a smart business move to shutter for a few days. Regardless, I'm happy they're up and running now. This is quite literally the perfect place to get work done--oftentimes I actually feel guilty talking on the phone because the atmosphere is so conducive to quiet work and reading that it tends to have more of a library vibe than a happening coffee house vibe. So while you won’t hear the hippest live music here, there's tons of comfortable individual seating, lots of outlets, and great natural light. It's uber-clean, and the owner is incredibly friendly.

The lattes are great. Their espresso has smooth, sweet notes. And the drip coffee is strong--even though I have a coffeemaker at home, the houseguests I've had prefer to cruise over to Apollo for a cup. They have a small selection of breakfast pastries and scones, panini for lunch, and a great selection of snacks like Lara Bars, Dagoba chocolate, mini brownies, and mini truffles. In fact, I noticed a lot of options for the chocolate aficionado here, from chocolate bars to dark chocolate cupcakes. They sell beer and wine as well, although I think the hours at Apollo aren’t so conducive to this. When asked about the early hours, the owner commented that it's a much quieter part of Divisadero, and maybe in the summer they'll stay open a bit later. Until then, I'm sticking to the coffee, the quiet, and the chocolate.

Apollo Coffee
1064 Divisidero St. (between Turk and Golden Gate Blvd)
San Francisco, CA 94115
Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 8am-7pm; Fri.-Sat. 8am-6pm; Sun. 9am-6pm

Zazu and Bovolo chef, John Stewart, displays his butchering diagram tattoo

The July issue of Food and Wine garnered more than usual attention and press. On it, the "Best New Chefs" of 2009 were photographed in all their glory--and with all their tattoos. In the "Letters to the Editor" for the October issue of the magazine, a reader objected, noting, "I don't recall subscribing to Sailor's Monthly." Moving on from print, as anyone who tunes in to Top Chef can tell you, tattoos are a vibrant presence in each episode. In fact, Bravo has even put together a slideshow displaying current contestant's ink. From small flowers to intricate sleeves, the aspiring Top Chefs show it all off.

Locally, the Bay Area could host a similar show. A great many chefs have tattoos, and interestingly (although not surprisingly)--many are food related. I set out to take a closer look and found that, while tattoos in general are often thought of as the ultimate form of self-expression, the following food personalities are proving that their alimentary tats are more than that. Part immortalizing a favorite dish, part business inspiration and contract, part celebrating personal success--they all prove that they're in it for the long run.

A Business Contract--With Yourself
Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe ice cream, isn't technically a chef--although he was a prominent pastry chef before deciding to open his innovative scoop shop. The inspiration behind the 31 flavors tattoo gracing his forearm was completely business related. Jake was having difficulties with PG&E as he worked to open the shop on Harrison St. Things were going slower than he would've liked and he was becoming more and more frustrated with each passing day. He knew that if he did something permanent, if he got a tattoo, it was a contract with himself that he'd stick with it: "There's no turning back now."

Jake Godby, owner of Humphry Slocombe, shows off his ice cream cone tattoos

Self-Identification and Expression
Jake's ice cream tattoo isn't his only food-related ink. He also has a Campbell's soup can, the Pillsbury doughboy, and Elsie the cow. Jake was a double major in art and art history, so the Campbell's soup can is a melding of his interest in both. And the Pillsbury doughboy? Jake laughs, "I'm a baker. It just fit." As for Elsie: he just liked her. For Jake, it was about identifying with an image that was important to him, and that spoke to how he saw himself.

Jake shows off the lesser-known tats

The necessity to express oneself in the kitchen is particularly strong for chefs. "It's a nice way for people who spend an absurd amount of time in the back of a kitchen to express themselves. It's one way to really be yourself in the kitchen without annoying anyone," Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, explains. He goes on, saying "The thing about cooking is it's an industry where you can wear your hair however you want, get tattoos...cooking's about the craft, not about your appearance." So while there is obviously a creative outlet with the food preparation and presentation, most chefs are stuck in a sweaty room for 12 hours a day with the same few folks. Tattoos are a way to stand out, make a statement, and express oneself in a profession where those things are reserved for the product rather than the individual.

Richie spoke a bit about his newest tattoo, a sleeve of the four seasons. He had fall and winter done about a month ago, spring's to come, and he just had the figs (Summer) outlined a few weeks ago. Part self-expression, part celebrating the vibrance of the seasons here in California, and a team effort with his beloved local tattoo artist whom he’s put a lot of trust in conceiving of it.

Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, and his Four Seasons Sleeve

Celebrating Forward Movement in the Kitchen
Chad LewisNewton of Fish and Farm got his first food tattoo to celebrate his moving up in the culinary world. Of it, he says "I got the Oui Chef! / Non Chef! tat after I got my first Executive Chef job. I planned it years earlier when I was a young cook/sous chef. The inspiration was about my progression as a cook in this industry. When you are a young cook, with great respect and gusto you would always answer your superior Chefs with a thundering YES CHEF!!! Now, the cooks answer me with that exclamation."

When I asked him what others may have expected him to get, he said: "A picture of tongs! I do not use tongs in the kitchen as part of my French trained background. At one point I wanted to get a picture of tongs with a red line through it, saying in script below, Frenchie Poo." In talking to each chef, I learned quickly that tongs often signify a newbie cook (whereas more seasoned chefs can use more delicate, less clumsy instruments to handle their food). Chad's comment certainly illustrates how, for some cooks, their tattoo is almost like a trophy, a sign that they've made it and are celebrating in the best, most permanent way.

Richie Nakano has a similar story, and interestingly enough, he mentions tongs as well. Regarding the spoon tattoo on his forearm, he says "It's an Oneida baguette spoon...they're everywhere, kind of your generic spoon. It was perfect for me because I was at the point in my career where my technique had developed and I was happy with it. I wasn't relying on tongs or other clumsy tools anymore." The spoon signified more skill, more finesse, a real coming into his own in the kitchen.

Richie Nakano, sous chef at NOPA, displaying his Oneida spoon tattoo

When I asked John Stewart of Zazu and Bovolo to tell me about his butcher's diagram tattoo, he said that he'd worked with Mario Batali in New York and was living in Seattle at the time. Mario's dad had a place in Seattle called Salumi (and it's still there, currently run by Mario's sister Gina). At the time, John was learning the craft and art of curing meats and began to build confidence and a skill set. "The magic part of it went away and I started doing whole cuts--prosciutto, copas--and demonstrating more of a skill level and curing consistency...at that point, I became a fanatic." It certainly didn't happen overnight. In talking to John, I learned that curing something like prosciutto can take anywhere from 14-20 months, so there was a lot of patience and persistence involved. John had the business card from Salumi laying around and thought, "I should get this on my arm!"

Making a Statement: Why I Do What I Do
As for Chad Newton's other food tattoo, a pig and octopus with the words Break Bread and Le Repretoire, he says: "Break bread is not a religious term--it's about sharing a meal with loved ones. That's why I cook: to feed people in settings where families and friends can all share time together, share food together, eat family style, share stories, catch up on their events, just break bread... As for Le Repertoire, that means a person's set of skills. For example, I am proud that I can butcher efficiently, make traditional pasta, and cook great tasting Vietnamese street food."

Chad Newton shows off his two food-related tattoos

John Stewart echoes this sentiment, appreciating the fact that he has an image that represents a timeless kind of thing: curing meats, something he truly believes in. "It's a very traditional product. There's a shifting focus from mass-produced products back towards things actually produced by people."

Reactions
Moms never like tattoos much. Chad and Richie can attest to that: "It's always Mom. I have had tattoos since I was 17, but she still cries after every single one and tells me that it is bad for my career," Chad says. Richie says his mom's never fond of his tattoos, but tends to get over them pretty quickly. The other day though, she did warn him "Just don't go tattooing your face!" John’s mother asked to see the tattoo, but wasn't shocked. "We do live in California, after all," he jokes. And Jake's family and friends seem universally accepting of the ice cream: "Even my grandparents like it," he says.

The Big, Bold, Inked Future
As for future tattoos, Richie doesn't have anything planned right away. But in talking to his tattoo artist recently while getting the figs done, the wheels started turning. And although Jake wasn't sure what his next inked move would be, there were long moments of thought and hesitation. I got the sense that there would be another addition at some point. Chad plans to get a large tasting menu down his whole back. It would look like a large hand written menu, encompassing some of his favorite things to eat and cook--in proper tasting menu order. He'd also like to get a symmetrical half sleeve of the pig/octopus, but with different game birds and some more script. And John's looking to get a rooster in a similar 50's style inspired by his trip to Kauai and the plethora of roosters there. After researching this, John discovered that sailors often had tattoos of pigs and roosters because the animals were kept in boxes, so they floated during shipwrecks--a symbol of tenacity and survival. And in these changing and uncertain times, what more could a chef--and we, their faithful diners--ask for?

This early summer heat has left me wilted and without much of an appetite for aught but cold salads and homemade fruit smoothies. However, it brought out a special request in my husband, "I want Hawaii in a cocktail," he announced the other night when the temp was still hovering above 75° after 7:00. Knowing them to be a fabulous place for cocktails -- both seasonal and inventive standbys made with the highest quality ingredients -- we betook ourselves to Nopa on Divisadero and Hayes and cooled off with their Mumbai Iced Tea. A heat-beating concoction of gin, vodka, tequila, tamarind syrup, rhum orange, the tropical cocktail is topped off with spicy ginger beer and garnished with a sprig of mint.

We paired a few of these with a some cold salads and sides -- their toasted barley and pea shoot side is served at room temp and is simply delectable -- sat back, and decided the heat wasn't so bad after all.

That brings me to my traditional summer cocktail: Pimm's Cup. Last year, Sam of Becks and Posh beat me to the posting punch, but as she's actually British and I just wish I was, I guess I'll forgive her. This time.

As Sam noted, normally a proper Pimm's Cup has to be mixed with Sprite or 7-Up to approximate what you get with British lemonade. However, I've finally managed to dig up authentic British lemonade at Andronico's. It's made by Belvoir and the same company also has an elderflower pressé and a British ginger beer so spicy it stings going down. Refreshing in Pimm's Cup, that sort of ginger beer is also wicked important when making the definitive Dark and Stormy.

What do I think Pimm's tastes like? Curry. Definitely. I've always maintained that there's an elusive curry flavor that overrides -- but doesn't overpower -- all others. For me, anyway. Some people look at me like I'm crazy when I say that, so "herbal" might be a better descriptor. Whatever you call it, there's no debating that Pimm's Cup is one of the best summer refreshers.

Pimm's Cup of Joy

3 oz. Pimm's No. 1
4 or 5 mint leaves
2 fresh strawberries, halved
1 slice of cucumber
Lime quarter
Sprite, 7-Up, British lemonade, or ginger beer

The Shake:

In a tall glass, add Pimm's and mint leaves. Use a muddler or the handle of a wooden spoon to crush the mint leaves a bit. Toss in the strawberries, cucumber, and lime quarter with some ice cubes and fill the rest of the glass with your desired mixer.