Tara Duggan Talks Root to Stalk Cooking: Recipes and Tips on The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable
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Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"sarahhenry":{"type":"authors","id":"5125","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5125","found":true},"name":"Sarah Henry","firstName":"Sarah","lastName":"Henry","slug":"sarahhenry","email":"sarahhenry0509@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"\u003ca href=\"http://www.sarahhenrywriter.com/\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a> hails from Sydney, Australia, where she grew up eating lamingtons, Vegemite, and prawns (not shrimp) on the barbie (barbecue). Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_69511":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_69511","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"69511","score":null,"sort":[1378490865000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tara-duggan-talks-root-to-stalk-cooking-recipes-and-tips-on-the-art-of-using-the-whole-vegetable","title":"Tara Duggan Talks Root to Stalk Cooking: Recipes and Tips on The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable ","publishDate":1378490865,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Dugg_Root-to-Stalk600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Dugg_Root-to-Stalk600.jpg\" alt=\"Root to Stalk Cooking by Tara Duggan\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69677\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where others see discards destined for the compost bin, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/tara-duggan-/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em> food writer Tara Duggan sees potential culinary gems destined for her dinner table. She is no zealot, despite practicing what her husband has nicknamed \"compost cookery,\" but she has been known to rescue broccoli bits from the family kitchen's green bin. \"Broccoli leaves are delicious and have this silky quality, and broccoli stalks, stripped of their fibrous outer layer, are the sweetest part of the vegetable,\" says Duggan. \"When we're not eating the whole vegetable we're missing out on all these flavors and textures.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, Duggan delights in getting the most out of her vegetables. And she shares her tips, tricks, and recipes in her latest cookbook, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Root-Stalk-Cooking-Using-Vegetable/dp/1607744120\">Root to Stalk Cooking: The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which celebrates carrot tops, fennel fronds, leek greens, and other so-called vegetable scraps often overlooked by home cooks. Hot on the heels of the nose-to-tail butchery and cookery trend, veg-centric cookbooks seem to be giving meat-focused recipe collections a run for their money right now. Witness recent tomes on the pleasures of produce by culinary heavy hitters such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Tender\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/05/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater/\">Ripe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Plenty\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Jerusalem\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://deborahmadison.com/\">Deborah Madison\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Vegetable Literacy\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/about/meet-hugh/\">Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall\u003c/a> (\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/11/spotlight-on-summer-vegetables-river-cottage-veg-cookbook/\">River Cottage Veg\u003c/a>\u003c/em>). After a period where animal cookery seemed to rule, chefs are continuing to turn their attention to the plant kingdom and finding as much inspiration and innovation in vegetable \"offal\" as a slab of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan was ahead of the curve. The James Beard award-winning writer and San Francisco California Culinary Academy graduate first wrote about root to stalk cooking in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Scrap-artistry-3251101.php\">story for the Chronicle in 2009\u003c/a>, when she discovered that Bay Area restaurant chefs were not just using Swiss chard stems and turnip greens, they were bragging about it too. Since then she's seen local chefs step up their scrap artistry and home cooks becoming increasingly curious about using the whole vegetables they find at farmers' markets, in CSA boxes, or in their own backyards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69679\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Radishes600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Radishes600.jpg\" alt=\"Tara Duggan celebrates whole vegetable cooking: Roots, leaves, stems and all. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69679\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tara Duggan celebrates whole vegetable cooking: Roots, leaves, stems and all. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It turns out, there are multiple reasons to eat more of our vegetables. Thrift, for one, of both the economic and ecological kind. Since Duggan spends time and has written about her brother and sister-in-law's off-the-grid \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Windy-Hollow-Farm-Taming-the-land-2353351.php\">Windy Hollow Farm\u003c/a>, she is acutely aware of the energy and labor that goes into growing produce in the first place. \"If we use carrot tops as an herb rather than buy a bunch of parsley, or cook beet greens rather that pick up a bunch of chard, that's one less plant that has to be watered, fertilized, harvested, transported, and refrigerated, not to mention one less thing to buy,\" she notes. And Duggan abhors \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/25/how-to-prevent-food-waste-a-primer-for-home-cooks/\">food waste\u003c/a>, a widespread problem in professional and domestic kitchens. In her book Duggan quotes from a three-decade study conducted by the Garbage Project at the University of Arizona, that found American households throw out 25 percent of their groceries overall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But her underlying motivation for writing \u003cem>Root to Stalk Cooking\u003c/em>: Finding more flavor from the foods we know. \"Finely chopped carrot tops in a salsa verde add just the right hint of bitterness,\" says Duggan. \"Beet greens have a very subtle flavor, different from the actual beet, so using the greens can elevate a dish and give a cook more depths of layers to work with.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan, 42, who lives in San Francisco's Glen Park neighborhood with her husband and two daughters, had some new edible adventures of her own recipe testing for her book. \"Before I researched the book I thought leek greens were inedible. Every recipe you read calls for cutting off leek greens and discarding them,\" she says. \"But it turns out they make a nice braising green with an onion flavor and a silky texture.\" And she had her share of flops: Duggan had little luck turning corn silk into something edible and her experiments with basil stem oil only resulted in a product that was grassy and bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She gives nods to local chefs who play with produce odds and ends in toothsome ways, some of which found their way into the pages of her book. \"\u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/about-us/\">Chris Cosentino of Incanto\u003c/a> in San Francisco is known for his nose-to-tail cooking of animals, in particular his artful use of offal,\" she says, \"but he applies that same sensibility and respect to the produce that comes into his restaurant in dishes.\" Cosentino uses fennel fronds, stems and cores, for instance, in a risotto that also makes the most of boiled Meyer lemon rind. At the Chinese restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's\u003c/a> in Noe Valley, chef-owner Tony Sung has long used the dark green parts of leeks in a pork belly dish. Chef Sharon Ardiana, of Duggan's neighborhood pizzeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.gialina.com/\">Gialina\u003c/a>, shares her Kale and Farro Salad with Avocado that uses whole kale leaves, including the stems. This writer can attest to that salad's deliciousness.) And Duggan credits \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Chez-Panisse-Vegetables-Alice-Waters/dp/0060171472\">\u003cem>Chez Panisse Vegetables\u003c/em>\u003c/a> as the place where she first learned to cook with Swiss chard stems in a gratin she dubs delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Duggan_Tara1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Duggan_Tara1000.jpg\" alt=\"Tara Duggan finds flavorful uses for kitchen scraps in her latest cookbook. Photo: Clay McClachlan\" width=\"1000\" height=\"736\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69678\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tara Duggan finds flavorful uses for kitchen scraps in her latest cookbook. Photo: Clay McClachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think the recent ramped up interest in vegetable cookery is because we're just starting to see the potential for flavor in vegetables and that there's a whole universe of unique flavors we haven't taken advantage of until now,\" says Duggan, who has a couple of new veggie cookbook favorites of her own. She enjoys the recipes found in Joe Yonan's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.joeyonan.com/p/eat-your-vegetables.html\">Eat Your Vegetables\u003c/a>\u003c/em> because they're \"immediate, fun, and accessible.\" She also likes Diane Morgan's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://dianemorgancooks.com/\">Roots\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, for its fresh approach to showcasing what Duggan calls the wallflowers of the vegetable world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, some parts of some produce are downright dangerous to eat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002876.htm\">Rhubarb leaves\u003c/a>, for one, are a definite no-no. Consuming small quantities of peach leaves is likely okay and local restaurants include them on their menus, notes Duggan. But since she ran into accounts of children dying from drinking peach leaf tea while researching her book, she decided to steer clear of them in her recipes. (Turns out peach leaves, like cherry pits and apple seeds, contain minute amounts of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanogen\">cyanogens\u003c/a>, compounds that when ingested in large quantities are toxic. If in doubt about whether or not to consume a particular produce part, contact the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aapcc.org/\">American Poison Control Centers\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan, who describes herself as a generalist, has written previous \u003ca href=\"http://www.taraduggan.com/books/\">cookbooks\u003c/a>, including \u003cem>The Blue Bottle Craft of Coffee\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Waffles\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>The Working Cook\u003c/em>. For now, though, she's planting herself firmly on the vegetable beat and sees another produce-based cookbook in her future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/chard600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/chard600.jpg\" alt=\"Chard stems work well in gratins, relishes and even a hummus-like dip. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69676\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chard stems work in gratins, relishes and hummus. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MAKING THE MOST OF EVERY PIECE OF PRODUCE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Uses for a dozen vegetable and fruit trimmings typically tossed out by home cooks that find their way into Duggan's dishes. And a tip in advance: Use leaves, fronds, and greens--the parts of a vegetable that tend to wilt quickly--as soon as possible after buying or harvesting. A beet can last for some time in the refrigerator, for instance, but beet greens are at their best when freshly picked.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apple Peels and Cores:\u003c/strong> Work wonders to infuse bourbon. Who knew?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Asparagus Stems:\u003c/strong> Snap, save, freeze, and then use to make stock for asparagus soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Broccoli Stalks:\u003c/strong> Cut off and discard the tough outer peel of the stalk and then shave the remains into paper-thin strips with a vegetable peeler, as Duggan does in her Shaved Broccoli Stalk Salad with Lime and Cotija, featured on the cover of her book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Tops:\u003c/strong> Finely chop as a parsley substitute in Italian salsa verde. Taste test for bitterness and use judiciously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cauliflower Stems and Leaves:\u003c/strong> Cut into the whole head and through the stem to make cauliflower \"steaks,\" which respond well to caramelizing. Add tender cauliflower leaves at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Leaves and Inner Stalks:\u003c/strong> Add stalks to slaw or use in asparagus soup for an added flavor dimension, mix celery leaves in salad for extra crunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chard Stalks:\u003c/strong> Bake stalks with cream, cheese and bread crumbs for a gratin. Pickle them for a crunchy, chutney-like relish or puree for hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fava Beans:\u003c/strong> Grill them whole until the beans steam through their normally tough outer shells. Toss in olive oil and salt and eat, peels and all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fennel Stalks:\u003c/strong> Candy fennel stalks, for a chewy, anise-flavored treat. Fennel stalk syrup fills in nicely for simple syrup in drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lemon Skins:\u003c/strong> Dry zest then add to vinaigrettes, fruit salads, meat braises, cakes, or anything that benefits from a little citrus boost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Potato Peels:\u003c/strong> Deep fry, season with salt and paprika. Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radish Leaves:\u003c/strong> Add to salads for a peppery end note.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EVENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sept. 21, 10:30 a.m.\u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dieselbookstore.com/event/larkspur-tara-duggan-demos-and-signs-root-stalk-cooking\">Marin Country Mart Farmers Market\u003c/a>, 2257 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sept. 28, 9 a.m. \u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesfarmersmarket.org/events/food-writer-tara-duggan-roots-to-stalk-cooking/\">Point Reyes Station Farmers Market\u003c/a>, Toby’s Feed Barn, 11250 California 1, Point Reyes Station\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nov. 10, Time TBA.\u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.18reasons.org/\">18 Reasons\u003c/a>, 3674 18th Street, San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Thai-Watermelon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Thai-Watermelon600.jpg\" alt=\"Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lemongrass syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup lemongrass, cut in 1-inch pieces, from the tops of 4 stalks\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\n3 \tpounds seedless watermelon, unpeeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n3 \ttablespoons lime juice (from 2 to 3 juicy limes)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \ttablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \ttablespoons thinly sliced shallot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \ttablespoons thinly sliced basil, preferably Thai basil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \tserrano chile, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \tto 4 cups mâche or baby spinach (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is an unexpected use for that half of a watermelon you’re not sure what to do with. With a flavor profile similar to that of Thai green papaya or banana blossom salad, this recipe takes advantage of crisp, refreshing watermelon rind, which is marinated in a mixture of lemongrass syrup, lime juice, basil, fresh chiles, and fish sauce. After the rind has absorbed all the flavors, you toss it with cubes of fresh watermelon for a juicy dish that I find difficult to stop eating, as the sweet watermelon plays against the savory, spicy, and tart flavors. If you can find mâche, a tender dark green lettuce, it adds beautiful contrasting color and even more juicy crunch to the combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Most recipes that call for lemongrass only use the bulbous bottom parts, but here you can use the leftover top part of the stalks, or use 2 whole lemongrass stalks. You will have some leftover syrup, which is delicious in cocktails, lemonade, or desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the lemongrass syrup, place the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the lemongrass stalks, return to a simmer, and cook until the lemongrass flavor is infused into the syrup, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool, then strain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the salad, remove the white rind from the watermelon. Chop the melon flesh into 3⁄4-inch cubes (you should have around 4 cups) and refrigerate until serving. Cut the rind into julienne until you have 2 cups. Place in a small bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the lemongrass syrup, 2 tablespoons of the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce, the shallot, the basil, and half of the serrano. Toss to combine, then cover and marinate, refrigerated, for 1 to 3 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, place the cold watermelon cubes in a large bowl and cover with the marinated rind and its juices. Season with the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, the remaining 1 teaspoon fish sauce, and the remaining serrano pepper (or to taste). Add the mâche and gently toss. Serve immediately while still very cold. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Broccoli-stalks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Broccoli-stalks600.jpg\" alt=\"Broccoli Stalks. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69674\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Broccoli stalks put to good use. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Broccoli Stalk Orecchiette With Anchovies & Garlic Bread Crumbs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 2 to 3\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\n3 \tcups (8 ounces) broccoli batons, leaves, and florets, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n8 \tounces orecchiette pasta\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \ttablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \tcloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \tcup fresh bread crumbs, or 1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs or panko\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄4 \tteaspoon red chile flakes, plus more to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \tto 6 anchovy fillets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nKosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you eat a lot of broccoli, you can save up the leftover stalks for use in this savory pasta, or use a combination of stalks and florets, which is also a good option if you’d like to double the recipe. Cauliflower works well here too, and chopped black olives, capers, and preserved lemon all make great additions—or substitutions for the anchovies if you want to make a vegetarian version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a large pot of well-salted water to boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blanch the broccoli batons, leaves, and florets in the boiling water until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or skimmer to a plate, then add the pasta to the water and cook to al dente according to the package directions. When done, drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add half of the garlic. When it smells garlicky, after about 30 seconds, add the bread crumbs. Sauté without stirring until the crumbs are browned on the bottom, then stir occasionally until browned and crisp all over, 3 to 5 minutes total. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the remaining garlic, and the red chile flakes to the pan. When the garlic is fragrant, add the drained broccoli and cook, stirring, until integrated with the sauce, about 2 minutes. Make room in the center of the pan for the anchovies, then add them and crush to form a paste, cooking only about 30 seconds to preserve their flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pasta to the pan and stir in enough of the pasta cooking water to form a sauce, then stir over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and more red chile flakes to taste. Stir in the toasted bread crumbs and serve immediately in pasta bowls with a drizzle of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tara Duggan, author of Root to Stalk Cooking, shares tips, recipes, and advice on making the most of produce odds and ends with BAB's Sarah Henry. Candied fennel, anyone?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1378826356,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":48,"wordCount":2459},"headData":{"title":"Tara Duggan Talks Root to Stalk Cooking: Recipes and Tips on The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable | KQED","description":"Tara Duggan, author of Root to Stalk Cooking, shares tips, recipes, and advice on making the most of produce odds and ends with BAB's Sarah Henry. Candied fennel, anyone?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"69511 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=69511","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/06/tara-duggan-talks-root-to-stalk-cooking-recipes-and-tips-on-the-art-of-using-the-whole-vegetable/","disqusTitle":"Tara Duggan Talks Root to Stalk Cooking: Recipes and Tips on The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable ","path":"/bayareabites/69511/tara-duggan-talks-root-to-stalk-cooking-recipes-and-tips-on-the-art-of-using-the-whole-vegetable","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Dugg_Root-to-Stalk600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Dugg_Root-to-Stalk600.jpg\" alt=\"Root to Stalk Cooking by Tara Duggan\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69677\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where others see discards destined for the compost bin, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/author/tara-duggan-/\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em> food writer Tara Duggan sees potential culinary gems destined for her dinner table. She is no zealot, despite practicing what her husband has nicknamed \"compost cookery,\" but she has been known to rescue broccoli bits from the family kitchen's green bin. \"Broccoli leaves are delicious and have this silky quality, and broccoli stalks, stripped of their fibrous outer layer, are the sweetest part of the vegetable,\" says Duggan. \"When we're not eating the whole vegetable we're missing out on all these flavors and textures.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, Duggan delights in getting the most out of her vegetables. And she shares her tips, tricks, and recipes in her latest cookbook, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Root-Stalk-Cooking-Using-Vegetable/dp/1607744120\">Root to Stalk Cooking: The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which celebrates carrot tops, fennel fronds, leek greens, and other so-called vegetable scraps often overlooked by home cooks. Hot on the heels of the nose-to-tail butchery and cookery trend, veg-centric cookbooks seem to be giving meat-focused recipe collections a run for their money right now. Witness recent tomes on the pleasures of produce by culinary heavy hitters such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Tender\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/05/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater/\">Ripe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Plenty\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Jerusalem\u003c/em>), \u003ca href=\"http://deborahmadison.com/\">Deborah Madison\u003c/a> (\u003cem>Vegetable Literacy\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/about/meet-hugh/\">Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall\u003c/a> (\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/11/spotlight-on-summer-vegetables-river-cottage-veg-cookbook/\">River Cottage Veg\u003c/a>\u003c/em>). After a period where animal cookery seemed to rule, chefs are continuing to turn their attention to the plant kingdom and finding as much inspiration and innovation in vegetable \"offal\" as a slab of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan was ahead of the curve. The James Beard award-winning writer and San Francisco California Culinary Academy graduate first wrote about root to stalk cooking in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Scrap-artistry-3251101.php\">story for the Chronicle in 2009\u003c/a>, when she discovered that Bay Area restaurant chefs were not just using Swiss chard stems and turnip greens, they were bragging about it too. Since then she's seen local chefs step up their scrap artistry and home cooks becoming increasingly curious about using the whole vegetables they find at farmers' markets, in CSA boxes, or in their own backyards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69679\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Radishes600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Radishes600.jpg\" alt=\"Tara Duggan celebrates whole vegetable cooking: Roots, leaves, stems and all. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69679\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tara Duggan celebrates whole vegetable cooking: Roots, leaves, stems and all. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It turns out, there are multiple reasons to eat more of our vegetables. Thrift, for one, of both the economic and ecological kind. Since Duggan spends time and has written about her brother and sister-in-law's off-the-grid \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Windy-Hollow-Farm-Taming-the-land-2353351.php\">Windy Hollow Farm\u003c/a>, she is acutely aware of the energy and labor that goes into growing produce in the first place. \"If we use carrot tops as an herb rather than buy a bunch of parsley, or cook beet greens rather that pick up a bunch of chard, that's one less plant that has to be watered, fertilized, harvested, transported, and refrigerated, not to mention one less thing to buy,\" she notes. And Duggan abhors \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/25/how-to-prevent-food-waste-a-primer-for-home-cooks/\">food waste\u003c/a>, a widespread problem in professional and domestic kitchens. In her book Duggan quotes from a three-decade study conducted by the Garbage Project at the University of Arizona, that found American households throw out 25 percent of their groceries overall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But her underlying motivation for writing \u003cem>Root to Stalk Cooking\u003c/em>: Finding more flavor from the foods we know. \"Finely chopped carrot tops in a salsa verde add just the right hint of bitterness,\" says Duggan. \"Beet greens have a very subtle flavor, different from the actual beet, so using the greens can elevate a dish and give a cook more depths of layers to work with.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan, 42, who lives in San Francisco's Glen Park neighborhood with her husband and two daughters, had some new edible adventures of her own recipe testing for her book. \"Before I researched the book I thought leek greens were inedible. Every recipe you read calls for cutting off leek greens and discarding them,\" she says. \"But it turns out they make a nice braising green with an onion flavor and a silky texture.\" And she had her share of flops: Duggan had little luck turning corn silk into something edible and her experiments with basil stem oil only resulted in a product that was grassy and bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She gives nods to local chefs who play with produce odds and ends in toothsome ways, some of which found their way into the pages of her book. \"\u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/about-us/\">Chris Cosentino of Incanto\u003c/a> in San Francisco is known for his nose-to-tail cooking of animals, in particular his artful use of offal,\" she says, \"but he applies that same sensibility and respect to the produce that comes into his restaurant in dishes.\" Cosentino uses fennel fronds, stems and cores, for instance, in a risotto that also makes the most of boiled Meyer lemon rind. At the Chinese restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's\u003c/a> in Noe Valley, chef-owner Tony Sung has long used the dark green parts of leeks in a pork belly dish. Chef Sharon Ardiana, of Duggan's neighborhood pizzeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.gialina.com/\">Gialina\u003c/a>, shares her Kale and Farro Salad with Avocado that uses whole kale leaves, including the stems. This writer can attest to that salad's deliciousness.) And Duggan credits \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Chez-Panisse-Vegetables-Alice-Waters/dp/0060171472\">\u003cem>Chez Panisse Vegetables\u003c/em>\u003c/a> as the place where she first learned to cook with Swiss chard stems in a gratin she dubs delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Duggan_Tara1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Duggan_Tara1000.jpg\" alt=\"Tara Duggan finds flavorful uses for kitchen scraps in her latest cookbook. Photo: Clay McClachlan\" width=\"1000\" height=\"736\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69678\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tara Duggan finds flavorful uses for kitchen scraps in her latest cookbook. Photo: Clay McClachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think the recent ramped up interest in vegetable cookery is because we're just starting to see the potential for flavor in vegetables and that there's a whole universe of unique flavors we haven't taken advantage of until now,\" says Duggan, who has a couple of new veggie cookbook favorites of her own. She enjoys the recipes found in Joe Yonan's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.joeyonan.com/p/eat-your-vegetables.html\">Eat Your Vegetables\u003c/a>\u003c/em> because they're \"immediate, fun, and accessible.\" She also likes Diane Morgan's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://dianemorgancooks.com/\">Roots\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, for its fresh approach to showcasing what Duggan calls the wallflowers of the vegetable world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, some parts of some produce are downright dangerous to eat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002876.htm\">Rhubarb leaves\u003c/a>, for one, are a definite no-no. Consuming small quantities of peach leaves is likely okay and local restaurants include them on their menus, notes Duggan. But since she ran into accounts of children dying from drinking peach leaf tea while researching her book, she decided to steer clear of them in her recipes. (Turns out peach leaves, like cherry pits and apple seeds, contain minute amounts of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanogen\">cyanogens\u003c/a>, compounds that when ingested in large quantities are toxic. If in doubt about whether or not to consume a particular produce part, contact the \u003ca href=\"http://www.aapcc.org/\">American Poison Control Centers\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duggan, who describes herself as a generalist, has written previous \u003ca href=\"http://www.taraduggan.com/books/\">cookbooks\u003c/a>, including \u003cem>The Blue Bottle Craft of Coffee\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Waffles\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>The Working Cook\u003c/em>. For now, though, she's planting herself firmly on the vegetable beat and sees another produce-based cookbook in her future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/chard600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/chard600.jpg\" alt=\"Chard stems work well in gratins, relishes and even a hummus-like dip. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69676\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chard stems work in gratins, relishes and hummus. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MAKING THE MOST OF EVERY PIECE OF PRODUCE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Uses for a dozen vegetable and fruit trimmings typically tossed out by home cooks that find their way into Duggan's dishes. And a tip in advance: Use leaves, fronds, and greens--the parts of a vegetable that tend to wilt quickly--as soon as possible after buying or harvesting. A beet can last for some time in the refrigerator, for instance, but beet greens are at their best when freshly picked.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apple Peels and Cores:\u003c/strong> Work wonders to infuse bourbon. Who knew?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Asparagus Stems:\u003c/strong> Snap, save, freeze, and then use to make stock for asparagus soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Broccoli Stalks:\u003c/strong> Cut off and discard the tough outer peel of the stalk and then shave the remains into paper-thin strips with a vegetable peeler, as Duggan does in her Shaved Broccoli Stalk Salad with Lime and Cotija, featured on the cover of her book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Tops:\u003c/strong> Finely chop as a parsley substitute in Italian salsa verde. Taste test for bitterness and use judiciously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cauliflower Stems and Leaves:\u003c/strong> Cut into the whole head and through the stem to make cauliflower \"steaks,\" which respond well to caramelizing. Add tender cauliflower leaves at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Leaves and Inner Stalks:\u003c/strong> Add stalks to slaw or use in asparagus soup for an added flavor dimension, mix celery leaves in salad for extra crunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chard Stalks:\u003c/strong> Bake stalks with cream, cheese and bread crumbs for a gratin. Pickle them for a crunchy, chutney-like relish or puree for hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fava Beans:\u003c/strong> Grill them whole until the beans steam through their normally tough outer shells. Toss in olive oil and salt and eat, peels and all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fennel Stalks:\u003c/strong> Candy fennel stalks, for a chewy, anise-flavored treat. Fennel stalk syrup fills in nicely for simple syrup in drinks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lemon Skins:\u003c/strong> Dry zest then add to vinaigrettes, fruit salads, meat braises, cakes, or anything that benefits from a little citrus boost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Potato Peels:\u003c/strong> Deep fry, season with salt and paprika. Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radish Leaves:\u003c/strong> Add to salads for a peppery end note.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EVENTS:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sept. 21, 10:30 a.m.\u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.dieselbookstore.com/event/larkspur-tara-duggan-demos-and-signs-root-stalk-cooking\">Marin Country Mart Farmers Market\u003c/a>, 2257 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sept. 28, 9 a.m. \u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesfarmersmarket.org/events/food-writer-tara-duggan-roots-to-stalk-cooking/\">Point Reyes Station Farmers Market\u003c/a>, Toby’s Feed Barn, 11250 California 1, Point Reyes Station\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nov. 10, Time TBA.\u003cbr>\nCooking demo and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.18reasons.org/\">18 Reasons\u003c/a>, 3674 18th Street, San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Thai-Watermelon600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Thai-Watermelon600.jpg\" alt=\"Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Thai Watermelon Salad With Crunchy Watermelon Rind\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lemongrass syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄2 \tcup lemongrass, cut in 1-inch pieces, from the tops of 4 stalks\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\n3 \tpounds seedless watermelon, unpeeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n3 \ttablespoons lime juice (from 2 to 3 juicy limes)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \ttablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \ttablespoons thinly sliced shallot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \ttablespoons thinly sliced basil, preferably Thai basil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \tserrano chile, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n2 \tto 4 cups mâche or baby spinach (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is an unexpected use for that half of a watermelon you’re not sure what to do with. With a flavor profile similar to that of Thai green papaya or banana blossom salad, this recipe takes advantage of crisp, refreshing watermelon rind, which is marinated in a mixture of lemongrass syrup, lime juice, basil, fresh chiles, and fish sauce. After the rind has absorbed all the flavors, you toss it with cubes of fresh watermelon for a juicy dish that I find difficult to stop eating, as the sweet watermelon plays against the savory, spicy, and tart flavors. If you can find mâche, a tender dark green lettuce, it adds beautiful contrasting color and even more juicy crunch to the combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Most recipes that call for lemongrass only use the bulbous bottom parts, but here you can use the leftover top part of the stalks, or use 2 whole lemongrass stalks. You will have some leftover syrup, which is delicious in cocktails, lemonade, or desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the lemongrass syrup, place the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the lemongrass stalks, return to a simmer, and cook until the lemongrass flavor is infused into the syrup, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool, then strain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the salad, remove the white rind from the watermelon. Chop the melon flesh into 3⁄4-inch cubes (you should have around 4 cups) and refrigerate until serving. Cut the rind into julienne until you have 2 cups. Place in a small bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the lemongrass syrup, 2 tablespoons of the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce, the shallot, the basil, and half of the serrano. Toss to combine, then cover and marinate, refrigerated, for 1 to 3 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, place the cold watermelon cubes in a large bowl and cover with the marinated rind and its juices. Season with the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, the remaining 1 teaspoon fish sauce, and the remaining serrano pepper (or to taste). Add the mâche and gently toss. Serve immediately while still very cold. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Broccoli-stalks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Broccoli-stalks600.jpg\" alt=\"Broccoli Stalks. Photo: Clay McLachlan\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69674\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Broccoli stalks put to good use. Photo: Clay McLachlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Broccoli Stalk Orecchiette With Anchovies & Garlic Bread Crumbs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 2 to 3\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\n3 \tcups (8 ounces) broccoli batons, leaves, and florets, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n8 \tounces orecchiette pasta\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \ttablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \tcloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1 \tcup fresh bread crumbs, or 1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs or panko\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n1⁄4 \tteaspoon red chile flakes, plus more to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n4 \tto 6 anchovy fillets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nKosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you eat a lot of broccoli, you can save up the leftover stalks for use in this savory pasta, or use a combination of stalks and florets, which is also a good option if you’d like to double the recipe. Cauliflower works well here too, and chopped black olives, capers, and preserved lemon all make great additions—or substitutions for the anchovies if you want to make a vegetarian version.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a large pot of well-salted water to boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blanch the broccoli batons, leaves, and florets in the boiling water until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or skimmer to a plate, then add the pasta to the water and cook to al dente according to the package directions. When done, drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add half of the garlic. When it smells garlicky, after about 30 seconds, add the bread crumbs. Sauté without stirring until the crumbs are browned on the bottom, then stir occasionally until browned and crisp all over, 3 to 5 minutes total. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the remaining garlic, and the red chile flakes to the pan. When the garlic is fragrant, add the drained broccoli and cook, stirring, until integrated with the sauce, about 2 minutes. Make room in the center of the pan for the anchovies, then add them and crush to form a paste, cooking only about 30 seconds to preserve their flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pasta to the pan and stir in enough of the pasta cooking water to form a sauce, then stir over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and more red chile flakes to taste. Stir in the toasted bread crumbs and serve immediately in pasta bowls with a drizzle of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/69511/tara-duggan-talks-root-to-stalk-cooking-recipes-and-tips-on-the-art-of-using-the-whole-vegetable","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_12318","bayareabites_12314","bayareabites_12317","bayareabites_3707","bayareabites_12321","bayareabites_9740","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_12313","bayareabites_12312","bayareabites_12315"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69675","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_43476":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43476","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43476","score":null,"sort":[1338908420000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","title":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater","publishDate":1338908420,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/Ripe-cover500.jpg\" alt=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" title=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" width=\"500\" height=\"698\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43546\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The white peaches have returned, the strawberries are perfect, and the season’s first pinky-red cherries are offering their teasing, tart promise of the darker and sweeter varieties to follow. Yes, just as our desire for winter’s citrus is waning, the new stone fruits and berries are arriving to brighten market tables and kitchen counters alike. I doubt that anyone bakes with the precious first rounds of summer fruit—the $4-a-half-pint raspberries, the $10-a-pound blueberries, the tight-fleshed, golf ball-sized nectarines. These are luxuries, eaten before they even make it to the fridge, scattered over ice cream or stirred into Greek yogurt and honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, though, we’ll have bounty to take for granted, and then Nigel Slater’s new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard\u003c/a>, will come in handy. This fat, handsome, persimmon-colored volume is a companion to Slater’s earlier cooking-and-gardening book, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">Tender: A Cook in His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a>. As you might guess from the title, \u003cem>Ripe\u003c/em> finds the British food writer and cookbook author moving from his backyard vegetable beds into the trees, vines, and canes that put a multitude of home-grown fruits and nuts onto his table. As in \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> Slater writes only about what he can grow in his particular 55-yard stretch of London soil, which means, perhaps disappointingly to Bay Area readers, no citrus, no almonds, no loquats, no pomegranates, persimmons, or avocados.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he has managed, surprisingly, to nurture both a grapevine and three fig trees, along with a host of very British treats—gooseberries, red, white, and black currants (all of which may take some sleuthing to track down even in our well-stocked farmers' markets), rhubarb, damson plums, elderberries, quinces, even the medlar, an odd, old fruit, common in Shakespeare’s day, now a rarity even in Britain. (The small, brown, apple-like fruit must be picked hard, then “bletted,” or left to soften until it has almost rotted. Slater admits to planting his “quaint, hopelessly crooked” medlar for the sheer mystery and romance of it. The tree has since rewarded him with gorgeous blossoming in spring, followed by just enough fruit to make a couple of jars of tart-sweet amber jelly, good with pork and game, in autumn.) His nuts are European ones: hazelnuts, of course, along with chestnuts and walnuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes, too, are very British: cozy plum crumbles, a myriad of baked apples, Victoria sponge, “messes” of crushed meringue, whipped cream and berries, gooseberry fool, summer pudding, even skillfully updated versions of centuries-old possets and syllabubs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a longtime food writer and former restaurant chef, Slater has a savvy savory palate that can dip into the herb-and-spice pairings of cuisines around the world and translate them, deliciously, into satisfying, boldly flavored dinners without seeming dilettantish. He pairs green salad with peaches and ham, and mackerel with gooseberry sauce. Guinea fowl is roasted with figs, a Chinese-style pork roast is glazed with plum-ginger sauce, and apples accent pheasant, duck, blood sausage, and rabbit. Turkey gets a stuffing of apricots and pistachio; pork goes with peach salsa, blackberry-and-apple sauce, pears, quinces, plums, even rhubarb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to sweets, however, he’s a home cook, still with an English schoolboy’s love of the crumbly and the comforting. Not for Slater are the more contemporary, multi-layered (and quite delectable) concoctions found in books like pastry chef David Lebovitz’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ripe-Dessert-Outstanding-Fruit-Inside-Alongside/dp/0066212464\">Ripe for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead Slater, growing preciously small backyard amounts, keeps his preparations full-flavored and unfussy. There are rough-hewn galettes, juicy deep-dish pies, and nearly two dozen easy, buttery, not-too-sweet cakes, weighted with nuts and fruits, gently spiced, equally good as a breakfast nibble, a teatime pick-me-up, or a family dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fig chapter has five variations on figs baked with wine, sugar, and spices, while berries are paired with cream in everything from tiramisu and panna cotta to a raspberry-ripple yogurt fool and a frozen ice of raspberries and cream. Of a peach melba-ish summer fruit sundae (peaches poached in vanilla syrup, served over ice cream and drenched in raspberry-red currant puree) he writes simply, “Oh, joy of joys, such greedy bliss!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However much he may enjoy summer’s peaches, he saves his most finely wrought enthusiasm for the less obvious pleasures of the autumn and winter table--its apples and quinces, pears and walnuts. I cannot think of another food writer who has penned such rhapsodies in honor of the baked apple and its sweet, buttery-topped sister, the apple crumble. While many of the cold-weather, elegantly named heirloom varieties of apple (like D’Arcy Spice, Orleans Reinette, Ribston Pippin, and Cornish Gilliflower) that Slater espouses are rarely seen in the Bay Area, his enthusiasm should encourage you, come fall, to seek beyond the easy Fuji and Galas to the more complex, older apples like Esopus Spitzenburg, Ashmead’s Kernel, or Cox’s Orange Pippin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> however, the real reason to add Ripe to your cookbook shelf is Slater’s smart, supple prose and tart observations, which are at once lyrical, deeply felt, and irresistibly irreverent. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in his introduction, as he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There is a moment, sometime around the middle of September, when this garden, this diminutive hortus conclusus I have made in an 1820s London terrace, truly becomes the garden of my dreams. The leaves are turning from green to gold, amber, and rust, the last of the fruits hang crimson and smoky blue on the trees, the pumpkin-colored dahlias and Michaelmas daisies have collapsed like drunks across the gravel path. The garden darkens to the color of ginger cake, here and there a shot of saffron, brilliant ochre, or deepest crimson. The colors, I guess, of the Vatican at prayer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last berries, apples, and plums, wet and almost rotting from the late sun and autumn rain, lend a mellow, alcoholic scent to the space, like the dregs of an abandoned glass of wine. The garden is falling asleep with an air of damp tobacco and wood smoke, but it is still abundant too, with late blackberries, damsons, and a grapevine at breaking point. Each year I race to get to those blackberries before the feast of Michaelmas, when the devil is said to piss on them.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAsk your butcher to score the skin finely for this, as the crackling is essential. The first brief roasting at the higher temperature sets the crackling on the route to crispness. These ribs are not sweet and sticky like the ones in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries,\u003c/a> but lightly crisp and lip tingling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater, copyright (c) 2010, 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\" alt=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" title=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" width=\"400\" height=\"576\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ripe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa. Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 4 hours' marinating\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time: \u003c/strong> 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPork belly – 2 to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5kg), boned, skin intact and finely scored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rub:\u003cbr>\ngarlic – 3 cloves\u003cbr>\nlight soy sauce – 2 tablespoons\u003cbr>\npeanut oil – a tablespoon\u003cbr>\nsalt – 2 teaspoons\u003cbr>\ndried chile flakes – half a teaspoon\u003cbr>\nChinese five-spice powder – a slightly heaping teaspoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the peach salsa:\u003cbr>\ngreen onions – 2\u003cbr>\na small red chile\u003cbr>\npeaches – 3\u003cbr>\ncherry tomatoes – 8\u003cbr>\ncilantro – a small bunch\u003cbr>\njuice of 2 limes\u003cbr>\nolive oil – 3 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the pork in a china or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lower the heat to 400°F (200°C) and continue cooking for a further forty to fifty minutes, until the skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Make the salsa. Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"British food writer and passionate backyard gardener Nigel Slater is back, this time on the joys of homegrown fruit and nuts, with the newly issued American edition of Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard. Recipe for Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa included.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1338924806,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1483},"headData":{"title":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater | KQED","description":"British food writer and passionate backyard gardener Nigel Slater is back, this time on the joys of homegrown fruit and nuts, with the newly issued American edition of Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard. Recipe for Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa included.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"43476 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43476","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/05/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater/","disqusTitle":"Cookbook Review: Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater","path":"/bayareabites/43476/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/Ripe-cover500.jpg\" alt=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" title=\"Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater\" width=\"500\" height=\"698\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43546\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The white peaches have returned, the strawberries are perfect, and the season’s first pinky-red cherries are offering their teasing, tart promise of the darker and sweeter varieties to follow. Yes, just as our desire for winter’s citrus is waning, the new stone fruits and berries are arriving to brighten market tables and kitchen counters alike. I doubt that anyone bakes with the precious first rounds of summer fruit—the $4-a-half-pint raspberries, the $10-a-pound blueberries, the tight-fleshed, golf ball-sized nectarines. These are luxuries, eaten before they even make it to the fridge, scattered over ice cream or stirred into Greek yogurt and honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, though, we’ll have bounty to take for granted, and then Nigel Slater’s new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743329/kqedorg-20\">Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard\u003c/a>, will come in handy. This fat, handsome, persimmon-colored volume is a companion to Slater’s earlier cooking-and-gardening book, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">Tender: A Cook in His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a>. As you might guess from the title, \u003cem>Ripe\u003c/em> finds the British food writer and cookbook author moving from his backyard vegetable beds into the trees, vines, and canes that put a multitude of home-grown fruits and nuts onto his table. As in \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> Slater writes only about what he can grow in his particular 55-yard stretch of London soil, which means, perhaps disappointingly to Bay Area readers, no citrus, no almonds, no loquats, no pomegranates, persimmons, or avocados.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he has managed, surprisingly, to nurture both a grapevine and three fig trees, along with a host of very British treats—gooseberries, red, white, and black currants (all of which may take some sleuthing to track down even in our well-stocked farmers' markets), rhubarb, damson plums, elderberries, quinces, even the medlar, an odd, old fruit, common in Shakespeare’s day, now a rarity even in Britain. (The small, brown, apple-like fruit must be picked hard, then “bletted,” or left to soften until it has almost rotted. Slater admits to planting his “quaint, hopelessly crooked” medlar for the sheer mystery and romance of it. The tree has since rewarded him with gorgeous blossoming in spring, followed by just enough fruit to make a couple of jars of tart-sweet amber jelly, good with pork and game, in autumn.) His nuts are European ones: hazelnuts, of course, along with chestnuts and walnuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes, too, are very British: cozy plum crumbles, a myriad of baked apples, Victoria sponge, “messes” of crushed meringue, whipped cream and berries, gooseberry fool, summer pudding, even skillfully updated versions of centuries-old possets and syllabubs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a longtime food writer and former restaurant chef, Slater has a savvy savory palate that can dip into the herb-and-spice pairings of cuisines around the world and translate them, deliciously, into satisfying, boldly flavored dinners without seeming dilettantish. He pairs green salad with peaches and ham, and mackerel with gooseberry sauce. Guinea fowl is roasted with figs, a Chinese-style pork roast is glazed with plum-ginger sauce, and apples accent pheasant, duck, blood sausage, and rabbit. Turkey gets a stuffing of apricots and pistachio; pork goes with peach salsa, blackberry-and-apple sauce, pears, quinces, plums, even rhubarb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to sweets, however, he’s a home cook, still with an English schoolboy’s love of the crumbly and the comforting. Not for Slater are the more contemporary, multi-layered (and quite delectable) concoctions found in books like pastry chef David Lebovitz’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ripe-Dessert-Outstanding-Fruit-Inside-Alongside/dp/0066212464\">Ripe for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead Slater, growing preciously small backyard amounts, keeps his preparations full-flavored and unfussy. There are rough-hewn galettes, juicy deep-dish pies, and nearly two dozen easy, buttery, not-too-sweet cakes, weighted with nuts and fruits, gently spiced, equally good as a breakfast nibble, a teatime pick-me-up, or a family dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fig chapter has five variations on figs baked with wine, sugar, and spices, while berries are paired with cream in everything from tiramisu and panna cotta to a raspberry-ripple yogurt fool and a frozen ice of raspberries and cream. Of a peach melba-ish summer fruit sundae (peaches poached in vanilla syrup, served over ice cream and drenched in raspberry-red currant puree) he writes simply, “Oh, joy of joys, such greedy bliss!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However much he may enjoy summer’s peaches, he saves his most finely wrought enthusiasm for the less obvious pleasures of the autumn and winter table--its apples and quinces, pears and walnuts. I cannot think of another food writer who has penned such rhapsodies in honor of the baked apple and its sweet, buttery-topped sister, the apple crumble. While many of the cold-weather, elegantly named heirloom varieties of apple (like D’Arcy Spice, Orleans Reinette, Ribston Pippin, and Cornish Gilliflower) that Slater espouses are rarely seen in the Bay Area, his enthusiasm should encourage you, come fall, to seek beyond the easy Fuji and Galas to the more complex, older apples like Esopus Spitzenburg, Ashmead’s Kernel, or Cox’s Orange Pippin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with \u003cem>Tender,\u003c/em> however, the real reason to add Ripe to your cookbook shelf is Slater’s smart, supple prose and tart observations, which are at once lyrical, deeply felt, and irresistibly irreverent. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in his introduction, as he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>There is a moment, sometime around the middle of September, when this garden, this diminutive hortus conclusus I have made in an 1820s London terrace, truly becomes the garden of my dreams. The leaves are turning from green to gold, amber, and rust, the last of the fruits hang crimson and smoky blue on the trees, the pumpkin-colored dahlias and Michaelmas daisies have collapsed like drunks across the gravel path. The garden darkens to the color of ginger cake, here and there a shot of saffron, brilliant ochre, or deepest crimson. The colors, I guess, of the Vatican at prayer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last berries, apples, and plums, wet and almost rotting from the late sun and autumn rain, lend a mellow, alcoholic scent to the space, like the dregs of an abandoned glass of wine. The garden is falling asleep with an air of damp tobacco and wood smoke, but it is still abundant too, with late blackberries, damsons, and a grapevine at breaking point. Each year I race to get to those blackberries before the feast of Michaelmas, when the devil is said to piss on them.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAsk your butcher to score the skin finely for this, as the crackling is essential. The first brief roasting at the higher temperature sets the crackling on the route to crispness. These ribs are not sweet and sticky like the ones in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries,\u003c/a> but lightly crisp and lip tingling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater, copyright (c) 2010, 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Crisp-pork-belly400.jpg\" alt=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" title=\"Crisp Pork Belly - Ripe - Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\" width=\"400\" height=\"576\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ripe: Crisp pork belly, sweet peach salsa. Photo: Jonathan Lovekin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 4 servings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong> 30 minutes, plus 4 hours' marinating\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time: \u003c/strong> 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPork belly – 2 to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5kg), boned, skin intact and finely scored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the rub:\u003cbr>\ngarlic – 3 cloves\u003cbr>\nlight soy sauce – 2 tablespoons\u003cbr>\npeanut oil – a tablespoon\u003cbr>\nsalt – 2 teaspoons\u003cbr>\ndried chile flakes – half a teaspoon\u003cbr>\nChinese five-spice powder – a slightly heaping teaspoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the peach salsa:\u003cbr>\ngreen onions – 2\u003cbr>\na small red chile\u003cbr>\npeaches – 3\u003cbr>\ncherry tomatoes – 8\u003cbr>\ncilantro – a small bunch\u003cbr>\njuice of 2 limes\u003cbr>\nolive oil – 3 tablespoons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Put the pork in a china or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lower the heat to 400°F (200°C) and continue cooking for a further forty to fifty minutes, until the skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Make the salsa. Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43476/cookbook-review-ripe-a-cook-in-the-orchard-by-nigel-slater","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_1448","bayareabites_244","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_343","bayareabites_9783","bayareabites_10455"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43546","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_33992":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_33992","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"33992","score":null,"sort":[1318276377000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"toast-a-slice-of-nigel-slaters-life-comes-to-the-silver-screen","title":"Toast: A Slice of Nigel Slater's Life Comes to the Silver Screen","publishDate":1318276377,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\" alt=\"Toast poster\" title=\"Toast poster\" width=\"300\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-34043\">\u003c/a>Gosh the Brits know how to do misery, don't they? Miserable weather, miserable class distinctions, miserable food, circa 1960s at least. (The Anglophiles among us need not get their knickers in a twist: Word that there's now fab fare to be found in Britain has leaked out.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the grim, gray food of an earlier generation is on full display in the autobiographical film \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1658851/\">\"Toast,\"\u003c/a> based on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1318267645&sr=8-1\">memoir\u003c/a> of the same name by popular English cookbook author, food writer, and TV show host \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/home.asp\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a>. (Regular readers may recall a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">review of his latest tome, \u003cem>Tender\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an homage to the humble veg, in a delightful Stephanie Rosenbaum post.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no sugar coating it: Slater's early years were incredibly sad and lonely. The untimely death of his beloved mother, a simply awful cook who adored her boy and he her. Her only culinary saving grace: Toast with lashings of butter served up for dinner after another canned-food failure. Slater had a difficult relationship with his father, who made cheese sandwiches for days on end after the death of his wife. Something of a bully, the father also made it clear his son was a huge disappointment to him. Add to this equation the evil stepmother, played with trollopy gusto by Helena Bonham Carter, who wormed her way into their lives, first as an obsessive cleaner and then with her culinary (and, we're given ample evidence to believe, sexual) prowess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman may have been cheap as chips but she knew how to cook -- and bake. Oh my, that lemon meringue pie!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the film, with screenplay by Lee Hall who wrote \"Billy Elliott,\" the adolescent Slater (Freddie Highmore) is locked in a culinary clash with his despised stepmother for the attention and affection of his father. He loses, of course, and blames his stepmother for the early death of his father. Moviegoers will get the sense she literally fed him to death; the cakes, pies, and roasts just keep coming out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" title=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34088\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Victoria Hamilton as Nigel's mother and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The role of food in families -- as both a comfort and a weapon -- is at the heart of this movie, which makes great use of the anguished music of Dusty Springfield for its soundtrack. Dinner time in the Slater household was a desperately unhappy affair. Still, the young Slater finds refuge in food, sneaking cookbooks under the covers to read up on recipes, excelling in his Home Economics class, and triumphing over his stepmom by perfecting his own lemon meringue pie, which pops off the screen as a bright yellow gelatinous mass with a mound of white peaks expertly browned on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As in many children's fairy tales, his stepmom also provides his liberation: Following his father's death he simply walks out of her life and flees to London, where a future in food is his for the taking, and he never sees her again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sweet end note, Slater appears in a cameo as himself, reassuring his younger self, who is desperate to find a kitchen job (at the Savoy Hotel, no less) that everything will be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for the food world, it is. Slater is the author of ten books, many bestsellers, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Real-Fast-Food-Ready-Eat/dp/1590201159/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_3\">\u003cem>Real Fast Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Appetite-Nigel-Slater/dp/0609610783/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_8\">\u003cem>Appetite\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Diaries-Year-Nigel-Slater/dp/B002BWQ5EA/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_5\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. A food columnist for \u003cem>The Observer\u003c/em> for almost two decades, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619\">Toast\u003c/a>\u003c/em> the memoir, which won several major awards, including British Biography of the Year, began marinating as a column.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" title=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" width=\"560\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34045\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ken Stott as Nigel's father and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps unsurprisingly, the adult Slater is not fond of fussy food, he prefers simple suppers made with care and thought, using quality ingredients. And despite his upbringing, he believes that making something good to eat for yourself or for others can lift the spirits in the way little else can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In an interesting twist, the daughters of Slater's now deceased stepmother denounced his portrayal of her in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1345405/Nigel-Slaters-stepsisters-accuse-food-writer-cruel-lies-mother-seeing-BBCs-Toast.html\">the British press\u003c/a> earlier this year. The very different accounts of their childhood years serves to remind us that every person's version of the truth can vary wildly. On this much, though, all parties seem to agree: Slater's early years were full of rejection and loss. Indeed the subtitle of his book \"A Boy and His Hunger\" is both a nod to his need for real, nourishing food and genuine, nourishing love.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked what's missing from the movie, Slater responds without missing a beat: The sex. \"\u003cem>Toast\u003c/em> is a sexy little book, there's a lot of adolescent sex in those pages and they form an integral part of the story,\" he said in an interview yesterday. \"It doesn't really matter in the movie but honestly I would have liked to have seen a bit more of it. \"Toast\" was made for prime-time viewing in Britain at Christmas, and I think they wanted a film that the whole family could watch, not something adolescent boys might squirm at.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movie only hints at the teenage Slater's emerging sexuality; it reveals his crush on a family gardener and a first kiss in the woods with a local boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the food writer's memoir should not hold their breath for \u003cem>Toast: The Second Slice\u003c/em>. Here's why: \"I'm a very private person and tend to keep to myself, in part because I don't think I'm that interesting,\" Slater said. \"That memoir was the most intimate of memoirs and to this day I don't really know why I did it. But I was writing as a little boy and I was somehow able to differentiate it from my adult self. I stopped at 18 and I've protected myself ever since, I went back into my shell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's more. \"In practical terms, if I were to do a second book, it would be more a conventional memoir,\" he said, adding, \"and I'd have to write about other people's lives, people who are still alive, and I don't want to intrude on their privacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when many of us wax on about the pleasures of the table (this writer included), \"Toast\" reminds us that food can cause major misery in many people's lives. Audience goers will likely find themselves reflecting on their own childhood food memories while watching the film. Thankfully, this being a decidedly British film, there's a lot of black humor amid the sorrow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as well, too, because this writer, who wanted to rush home and bake her teenage son a cake after seeing the film, found herself wincing at the pain of it all at times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Toast\" opens in Bay Area cinemas this Friday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/EBGMJ2XpBI8\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Nigel Slater's new film, \"Toast,\" based on his best-selling memoir of the same name, reveals a boy, his hunger, and the power of food in an unhappy family.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1318277701,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.youtube.com/embed/EBGMJ2XpBI8"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1140},"headData":{"title":"Toast: A Slice of Nigel Slater's Life Comes to the Silver Screen | KQED","description":"Nigel Slater's new film, "Toast," based on his best-selling memoir of the same name, reveals a boy, his hunger, and the power of food in an unhappy family.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"33992 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=33992","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/10/toast-a-slice-of-nigel-slaters-life-comes-to-the-silver-screen/","disqusTitle":"Toast: A Slice of Nigel Slater's Life Comes to the Silver Screen","path":"/bayareabites/33992/toast-a-slice-of-nigel-slaters-life-comes-to-the-silver-screen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\" alt=\"Toast poster\" title=\"Toast poster\" width=\"300\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-34043\">\u003c/a>Gosh the Brits know how to do misery, don't they? Miserable weather, miserable class distinctions, miserable food, circa 1960s at least. (The Anglophiles among us need not get their knickers in a twist: Word that there's now fab fare to be found in Britain has leaked out.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the grim, gray food of an earlier generation is on full display in the autobiographical film \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1658851/\">\"Toast,\"\u003c/a> based on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1318267645&sr=8-1\">memoir\u003c/a> of the same name by popular English cookbook author, food writer, and TV show host \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/home.asp\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a>. (Regular readers may recall a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">review of his latest tome, \u003cem>Tender\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an homage to the humble veg, in a delightful Stephanie Rosenbaum post.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no sugar coating it: Slater's early years were incredibly sad and lonely. The untimely death of his beloved mother, a simply awful cook who adored her boy and he her. Her only culinary saving grace: Toast with lashings of butter served up for dinner after another canned-food failure. Slater had a difficult relationship with his father, who made cheese sandwiches for days on end after the death of his wife. Something of a bully, the father also made it clear his son was a huge disappointment to him. Add to this equation the evil stepmother, played with trollopy gusto by Helena Bonham Carter, who wormed her way into their lives, first as an obsessive cleaner and then with her culinary (and, we're given ample evidence to believe, sexual) prowess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman may have been cheap as chips but she knew how to cook -- and bake. Oh my, that lemon meringue pie!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the film, with screenplay by Lee Hall who wrote \"Billy Elliott,\" the adolescent Slater (Freddie Highmore) is locked in a culinary clash with his despised stepmother for the attention and affection of his father. He loses, of course, and blames his stepmother for the early death of his father. Moviegoers will get the sense she literally fed him to death; the cakes, pies, and roasts just keep coming out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" title=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34088\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Victoria Hamilton as Nigel's mother and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The role of food in families -- as both a comfort and a weapon -- is at the heart of this movie, which makes great use of the anguished music of Dusty Springfield for its soundtrack. Dinner time in the Slater household was a desperately unhappy affair. Still, the young Slater finds refuge in food, sneaking cookbooks under the covers to read up on recipes, excelling in his Home Economics class, and triumphing over his stepmom by perfecting his own lemon meringue pie, which pops off the screen as a bright yellow gelatinous mass with a mound of white peaks expertly browned on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As in many children's fairy tales, his stepmom also provides his liberation: Following his father's death he simply walks out of her life and flees to London, where a future in food is his for the taking, and he never sees her again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sweet end note, Slater appears in a cameo as himself, reassuring his younger self, who is desperate to find a kitchen job (at the Savoy Hotel, no less) that everything will be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for the food world, it is. Slater is the author of ten books, many bestsellers, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Real-Fast-Food-Ready-Eat/dp/1590201159/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_3\">\u003cem>Real Fast Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Appetite-Nigel-Slater/dp/0609610783/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_8\">\u003cem>Appetite\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Diaries-Year-Nigel-Slater/dp/B002BWQ5EA/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_5\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. A food columnist for \u003cem>The Observer\u003c/em> for almost two decades, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619\">Toast\u003c/a>\u003c/em> the memoir, which won several major awards, including British Biography of the Year, began marinating as a column.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" title=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" width=\"560\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34045\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ken Stott as Nigel's father and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps unsurprisingly, the adult Slater is not fond of fussy food, he prefers simple suppers made with care and thought, using quality ingredients. And despite his upbringing, he believes that making something good to eat for yourself or for others can lift the spirits in the way little else can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In an interesting twist, the daughters of Slater's now deceased stepmother denounced his portrayal of her in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1345405/Nigel-Slaters-stepsisters-accuse-food-writer-cruel-lies-mother-seeing-BBCs-Toast.html\">the British press\u003c/a> earlier this year. The very different accounts of their childhood years serves to remind us that every person's version of the truth can vary wildly. On this much, though, all parties seem to agree: Slater's early years were full of rejection and loss. Indeed the subtitle of his book \"A Boy and His Hunger\" is both a nod to his need for real, nourishing food and genuine, nourishing love.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked what's missing from the movie, Slater responds without missing a beat: The sex. \"\u003cem>Toast\u003c/em> is a sexy little book, there's a lot of adolescent sex in those pages and they form an integral part of the story,\" he said in an interview yesterday. \"It doesn't really matter in the movie but honestly I would have liked to have seen a bit more of it. \"Toast\" was made for prime-time viewing in Britain at Christmas, and I think they wanted a film that the whole family could watch, not something adolescent boys might squirm at.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movie only hints at the teenage Slater's emerging sexuality; it reveals his crush on a family gardener and a first kiss in the woods with a local boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the food writer's memoir should not hold their breath for \u003cem>Toast: The Second Slice\u003c/em>. Here's why: \"I'm a very private person and tend to keep to myself, in part because I don't think I'm that interesting,\" Slater said. \"That memoir was the most intimate of memoirs and to this day I don't really know why I did it. But I was writing as a little boy and I was somehow able to differentiate it from my adult self. I stopped at 18 and I've protected myself ever since, I went back into my shell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's more. \"In practical terms, if I were to do a second book, it would be more a conventional memoir,\" he said, adding, \"and I'd have to write about other people's lives, people who are still alive, and I don't want to intrude on their privacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when many of us wax on about the pleasures of the table (this writer included), \"Toast\" reminds us that food can cause major misery in many people's lives. Audience goers will likely find themselves reflecting on their own childhood food memories while watching the film. Thankfully, this being a decidedly British film, there's a lot of black humor amid the sorrow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as well, too, because this writer, who wanted to rush home and bake her teenage son a cake after seeing the film, found herself wincing at the pain of it all at times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Toast\" opens in Bay Area cinemas this Friday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/EBGMJ2XpBI8\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/33992/toast-a-slice-of-nigel-slaters-life-comes-to-the-silver-screen","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_9784","bayareabites_9785","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_9783","bayareabites_9782"],"featImg":"bayareabites_34043","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_27708":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_27708","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"27708","score":null,"sort":[1306087812000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","title":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater","publishDate":1306087812,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"British food writer Nigel Slater goes back to the garden in his new book, \u003cem>Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/em>. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1337646440,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1009},"headData":{"title":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater | KQED","description":"British food writer Nigel Slater goes back to the garden in his new book, Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"27708 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=27708","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/","disqusTitle":"Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater","path":"/bayareabites/27708/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/27708/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_1448","bayareabites_1050","bayareabites_1601","bayareabites_201","bayareabites_9306","bayareabites_9307","bayareabites_1260","bayareabites_10455","bayareabites_2055"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/insideEurope.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. 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Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.","airtime":"MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/Marketplace_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.marketplace.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"American Public Media"},"link":"/radio/program/marketplace","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=201853034&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/APM-Marketplace-p88/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"}},"mindshift":{"id":"mindshift","title":"MindShift","tagline":"A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids","info":"The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/mindshift2021-tile-3000x3000-1-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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