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The order also suspends admissions of new refugees for 120 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"und\" dir=\"ltr\">\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bodegastrike?src=hash\">#bodegastrike\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/rYrYeXK1XN\">pic.twitter.com/rYrYeXK1XN\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— katie ???? (@katieraffa) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/katieraffa/status/827247655042572294\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/yemeni-businesses-shut-their-doors-protest-trump-policies\">Sulaiman Al-Audi\u003c/a>, who works at the Best and Tasty Grocery on 143rd Street, the travel ban sends the message that he is not welcome here. Audi was born in Yemen but has been in the U.S. since 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've been here over a decade, and we've never posed any threat to anybody. We're just here to make a living,\" he told Annmarie Fertoli of NPR member station WNYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Audi says he has started the application process to bring his wife and baby to the U.S. But he doesn't know what happens next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Debbie Almontaser, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1792162054368070/?active_tab=about\">organized\u003c/a> Thursday's bodega protests, says about 1,000 shops are participating. She says that restaurants and other stores have also closed in solidarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The message that the merchants are sending is that they are part of the American fabric and the Muslim ban has devastated them and their families,\" says Almontaser, who is of Yemeni descent. She too, is personally affected by the new travel restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Follow \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> to get news about ~1,000 \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/NYC?src=hash\">#NYC\u003c/a> bodegas partaking in a strike today from noon to 8 pm to stand against the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/MuslimBan?src=hash\">#MuslimBan\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/1jKVjgJVf6\">pic.twitter.com/1jKVjgJVf6\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Mai El-Sadany (@maitelsadany) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/maitelsadany/status/827227875736690688\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My brother-in-law's wife is still stuck in Jordan,\" she told me. \"She was awaiting her visa and now because of the ban she won't be able to join him and her children.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Best and Tasty Grocery, a sign greeted customers. It read: \"In support of our family, friends and loved ones who are stranded at U.S. airports and overseas, we are closing our business today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alina Babar, a hospital worker and regular customer, expressed sympathy for the strike. \"I think it's brave of them to take a stand,\" she told WNYC, \"and I think they have every right to do it, and I think that they feel like they're being treated poorly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many bodega workers and their supporters have gathered for a rally at in Brooklyn Borough Hall in solidarity with the Yemeni-American community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">In tears at the amazing turn out for \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> by Yemenis and it's only 3pm. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/JbFbPHwZLJ\">pic.twitter.com/JbFbPHwZLJ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Dr.Debbie Almontaser (@DebbiAlmontaser) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DebbiAlmontaser/status/827246299468722177\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Yemeni-owned shops shut their doors for eight hours across the five boroughs. Organizers say many owners were personally affected by the ban on travelers from seven Muslim-majority nations.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1486089316,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":466},"headData":{"title":"New York City Bodegas Strike To Protest Trump's Travel Ban | KQED","description":"Yemeni-owned shops shut their doors for eight hours across the five boroughs. 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The order also suspends admissions of new refugees for 120 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"und\" dir=\"ltr\">\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bodegastrike?src=hash\">#bodegastrike\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/rYrYeXK1XN\">pic.twitter.com/rYrYeXK1XN\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— katie ???? (@katieraffa) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/katieraffa/status/827247655042572294\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/yemeni-businesses-shut-their-doors-protest-trump-policies\">Sulaiman Al-Audi\u003c/a>, who works at the Best and Tasty Grocery on 143rd Street, the travel ban sends the message that he is not welcome here. Audi was born in Yemen but has been in the U.S. since 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've been here over a decade, and we've never posed any threat to anybody. We're just here to make a living,\" he told Annmarie Fertoli of NPR member station WNYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Audi says he has started the application process to bring his wife and baby to the U.S. But he doesn't know what happens next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Debbie Almontaser, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1792162054368070/?active_tab=about\">organized\u003c/a> Thursday's bodega protests, says about 1,000 shops are participating. She says that restaurants and other stores have also closed in solidarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The message that the merchants are sending is that they are part of the American fabric and the Muslim ban has devastated them and their families,\" says Almontaser, who is of Yemeni descent. She too, is personally affected by the new travel restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Follow \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> to get news about ~1,000 \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/NYC?src=hash\">#NYC\u003c/a> bodegas partaking in a strike today from noon to 8 pm to stand against the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/MuslimBan?src=hash\">#MuslimBan\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/1jKVjgJVf6\">pic.twitter.com/1jKVjgJVf6\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Mai El-Sadany (@maitelsadany) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/maitelsadany/status/827227875736690688\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My brother-in-law's wife is still stuck in Jordan,\" she told me. \"She was awaiting her visa and now because of the ban she won't be able to join him and her children.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Best and Tasty Grocery, a sign greeted customers. It read: \"In support of our family, friends and loved ones who are stranded at U.S. airports and overseas, we are closing our business today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alina Babar, a hospital worker and regular customer, expressed sympathy for the strike. \"I think it's brave of them to take a stand,\" she told WNYC, \"and I think they have every right to do it, and I think that they feel like they're being treated poorly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many bodega workers and their supporters have gathered for a rally at in Brooklyn Borough Hall in solidarity with the Yemeni-American community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">In tears at the amazing turn out for \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> by Yemenis and it's only 3pm. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/JbFbPHwZLJ\">pic.twitter.com/JbFbPHwZLJ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Dr.Debbie Almontaser (@DebbiAlmontaser) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DebbiAlmontaser/status/827246299468722177\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115023/new-york-city-bodegas-strike-to-protest-trumps-travel-ban","authors":["byline_bayareabites_115023"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_1111","bayareabites_14177","bayareabites_13254","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_15735"],"featImg":"bayareabites_115024","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102199":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102199","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102199","score":null,"sort":[1444929492000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"danny-meyer-to-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-n-y-restaurants","title":"Danny Meyer To Banish Tipping And Raise Prices At His N.Y. Restaurants","publishDate":1444929492,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151014_atc_danny_meyer_will_banish_tipping_and_raise_prices_at_his_restaurants.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In mid-November, diners at the New York restaurants Gramercy Tavern and The Modern may notice something new on their menus: higher prices, across the board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? Because the man in charge of those and 11 other celebrated eateries is doing away with tipping. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6162737\">Danny Meyer\u003c/a>, the CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ushgnyc.com/\">Union Square Hospitality Group\u003c/a> (he also founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/30/382658859/shake-shack-sizzles-with-ipo-as-mcdonald-s-fizzles\">Shake Shack\u003c/a>), says tipping is actually a big problem for his industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that restaurant patrons have unwittingly believed that they could, if they wanted to, use their tip to punish bad service, and/or to praise great service,\" Meyer tells \u003cem>All Things Considered's\u003c/em> Kelly McEvers. \"What that's done over the years has actually been quite the opposite, because the average American restaurant-goer leaves the exact same tip, irrespective of the service they receive. And unfortunately, none of those tips that you leave in a restaurant may be shared with the full team, i.e. the cooks, the dishwashers, the prep cooks, the butchers, etc.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it might not be easy to bridge that gap between what the servers make and what the dishwashers make. Meyer says that since he started in the restaurant business 30 years ago, he's seen \"something fascinating and completely unfair: Waiters' income in a fine-dining restaurant has gone up well over 200 percent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's happened for two reasons: \"Menu prices have gone up, and the average tip that people leave has actually gone up from around 15 percent in 1985 to about 21 percent today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Meyer says, workers at the back of the house who don't get tipped have seen their hourly wage go up only 22 to 25 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/6636125613_bcd787e11c_o-1-_wide-6f2940f020eed16ac92afeff6eba488ba5deff7a-e1444929274490.jpg\" alt=\"Gramercy Tavern, in New York City, one of Danny Meyer's restaurants. Meyer says he will try to keep the new prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102201\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gramercy Tavern, in New York City, one of Danny Meyer's restaurants. Meyer says he will try to keep the new prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/16497759@N07/6636125613/\" target=\"_blank\">London Road/Flickr\u003c/a> )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"So by incorporating everything in the menu prices, and therefore having it be the restaurant's responsibility to pay everybody a fair wage, we think we have the opportunity to make a great place to work for everybody — not just servers, but also for our cooks,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer says he hopes it'll also solve the problem of servers having to take a pay cut of about 25 percent if they want to move up and become managers. \"We're going to change that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, this sea change in how his restaurants are run will result in higher menu prices. How much? Meyer says, \"When you get your bill, it should look just about exactly as it would have if you had left your gratuity in the old days.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That means he will try to keep prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This strategy could also help fine-dining restaurants in expensive cities like New York City hold on to cooks who now might find even better opportunities at fast-food restaurants, Meyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've never faced a labor shortage the way we have right now,\" he says. \"The fast-food industry is by law going to be raising its minimum wage to $15 an hour. So why would you tell your parents, 'Gee, please help me pay the bills for a culinary education so I can make less than that in a white-tablecloth restaurant.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Will other restaurants follow?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a huge number of colleagues in our industry who will be watching very, very closely,\" says Meyer. \"We felt a responsibility to go first, and we're proud to do it because it's the right thing to do. And I really think you're going to see this happen all over the country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Meyer says \"something fascinating and completely unfair\" plagues the restaurant industry: Waiters' incomes have risen far faster than other staff. To balance salaries out, he'll charge more for food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1444929492,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":660},"headData":{"title":"Danny Meyer To Banish Tipping And Raise Prices At His N.Y. Restaurants | KQED","description":"Meyer says "something fascinating and completely unfair" plagues the restaurant industry: Waiters' incomes have risen far faster than other staff. To balance salaries out, he'll charge more for food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Danny Meyer To Banish Tipping And Raise Prices At His N.Y. Restaurants","datePublished":"2015-10-15T17:18:12.000Z","dateModified":"2015-10-15T17:18:12.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"102199 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102199","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/15/danny-meyer-to-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-n-y-restaurants/","disqusTitle":"Danny Meyer To Banish Tipping And Raise Prices At His N.Y. Restaurants","nprStoryId":"448678237","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=448678237&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants?ft=nprml&f=448678237","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 15 Oct 2015 12:09:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 14 Oct 2015 17:23:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 15 Oct 2015 12:09:11 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151014_atc_danny_meyer_will_banish_tipping_and_raise_prices_at_his_restaurants.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=245&p=2&story=448678237&t=progseg&e=448563347&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=448678237","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1448697195-5ab831.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=245&p=2&story=448678237&t=progseg&e=448563347&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=448678237","path":"/bayareabites/102199/danny-meyer-to-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-n-y-restaurants","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151014_atc_danny_meyer_will_banish_tipping_and_raise_prices_at_his_restaurants.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=245&p=2&story=448678237&t=progseg&e=448563347&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=448678237","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151014_atc_danny_meyer_will_banish_tipping_and_raise_prices_at_his_restaurants.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In mid-November, diners at the New York restaurants Gramercy Tavern and The Modern may notice something new on their menus: higher prices, across the board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? Because the man in charge of those and 11 other celebrated eateries is doing away with tipping. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6162737\">Danny Meyer\u003c/a>, the CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ushgnyc.com/\">Union Square Hospitality Group\u003c/a> (he also founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/30/382658859/shake-shack-sizzles-with-ipo-as-mcdonald-s-fizzles\">Shake Shack\u003c/a>), says tipping is actually a big problem for his industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that restaurant patrons have unwittingly believed that they could, if they wanted to, use their tip to punish bad service, and/or to praise great service,\" Meyer tells \u003cem>All Things Considered's\u003c/em> Kelly McEvers. \"What that's done over the years has actually been quite the opposite, because the average American restaurant-goer leaves the exact same tip, irrespective of the service they receive. And unfortunately, none of those tips that you leave in a restaurant may be shared with the full team, i.e. the cooks, the dishwashers, the prep cooks, the butchers, etc.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it might not be easy to bridge that gap between what the servers make and what the dishwashers make. Meyer says that since he started in the restaurant business 30 years ago, he's seen \"something fascinating and completely unfair: Waiters' income in a fine-dining restaurant has gone up well over 200 percent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's happened for two reasons: \"Menu prices have gone up, and the average tip that people leave has actually gone up from around 15 percent in 1985 to about 21 percent today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Meyer says, workers at the back of the house who don't get tipped have seen their hourly wage go up only 22 to 25 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/6636125613_bcd787e11c_o-1-_wide-6f2940f020eed16ac92afeff6eba488ba5deff7a-e1444929274490.jpg\" alt=\"Gramercy Tavern, in New York City, one of Danny Meyer's restaurants. Meyer says he will try to keep the new prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102201\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gramercy Tavern, in New York City, one of Danny Meyer's restaurants. Meyer says he will try to keep the new prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/16497759@N07/6636125613/\" target=\"_blank\">London Road/Flickr\u003c/a> )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"So by incorporating everything in the menu prices, and therefore having it be the restaurant's responsibility to pay everybody a fair wage, we think we have the opportunity to make a great place to work for everybody — not just servers, but also for our cooks,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer says he hopes it'll also solve the problem of servers having to take a pay cut of about 25 percent if they want to move up and become managers. \"We're going to change that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, this sea change in how his restaurants are run will result in higher menu prices. How much? Meyer says, \"When you get your bill, it should look just about exactly as it would have if you had left your gratuity in the old days.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That means he will try to keep prices on par with a 21 percent tip — what diners have been adding on average lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This strategy could also help fine-dining restaurants in expensive cities like New York City hold on to cooks who now might find even better opportunities at fast-food restaurants, Meyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've never faced a labor shortage the way we have right now,\" he says. \"The fast-food industry is by law going to be raising its minimum wage to $15 an hour. So why would you tell your parents, 'Gee, please help me pay the bills for a culinary education so I can make less than that in a white-tablecloth restaurant.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Will other restaurants follow?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a huge number of colleagues in our industry who will be watching very, very closely,\" says Meyer. \"We felt a responsibility to go first, and we're proud to do it because it's the right thing to do. And I really think you're going to see this happen all over the country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102199/danny-meyer-to-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-n-y-restaurants","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_9174","bayareabites_14976","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_11429","bayareabites_14977","bayareabites_1147"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102200","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_98389":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_98389","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"98389","score":null,"sort":[1437669234000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"fast-food-workers-cheer-as-15-minimum-wage-advances-in-new-york-state","title":"Fast-Food Workers Cheer As $15 Minimum Wage Advances In New York State","publishDate":1437669234,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/07/20150723_me_fast-food_workers_cheer_as_15_minimum_wage_advances_in_new_york_state.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There aren't a lot of obscure government board meetings that warrant a watch party, let alone one with a marching band.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's how fast-food restaurant workers and their supporters celebrated Wednesday on a blocked-off street in Manhattan, as they watched a state panel recommend a $6.25 increase in their hourly wage, to $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a victory! We have been fighting, and today we have made history,\" said Alvin Major, a 49-year-old cook at a KFC restaurant in Brooklyn. He said a $15 minimum wage would mean that he could stop relying on food stamps to feed his family of six.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This will help me to take care of my kids, send them to the right school and put food on the table,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bump to $15 an hour in New York, which would affect workers at chains with 30 or more stores nationally, would match recent increases in San Francisco, Seattle and Los Angeles. It would take effect over the next three years for New York City, and over the next six years for the entire state, if the state's labor commissioner approves the proposal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gov. Andrew Cuomo, who appointed the wage board that recommended the wage hike, called its proposal an important first step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will not stop until we reach true economic justice and we raise the minimum wage for every worker in every job in this state,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fast-food industry is one of New York's biggest employers of low-wage workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Randy Mastro, an attorney for fast-food franchise holders, says his clients are being unfairly targeted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are many other similarly situated restaurants, diners, food counters, not included in this proposal,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also could affect business growth, hiring and competition in the state, says Carolyn Richmond, who represents restaurant owners in the New York City Hospitality Alliance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the proposed wage hike would mean that some of her clients won't be able to hire more workers, and that smaller fast-food chains that want to expand might think twice before opening in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The increase, which boosts the minimum wage for many fast-food workers from $8.75 to $15 over several years, needs the labor commissioner's OK. Franchise holders say they're being targeted unfairly.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1437669364,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":384},"headData":{"title":"Fast-Food Workers Cheer As $15 Minimum Wage Advances In New York State | KQED","description":"The increase, which boosts the minimum wage for many fast-food workers from $8.75 to $15 over several years, needs the labor commissioner's OK. Franchise holders say they're being targeted unfairly.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Fast-Food Workers Cheer As $15 Minimum Wage Advances In New York State","datePublished":"2015-07-23T16:33:54.000Z","dateModified":"2015-07-23T16:36:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"98389 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=98389","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/23/fast-food-workers-cheer-as-15-minimum-wage-advances-in-new-york-state/","disqusTitle":"Fast-Food Workers Cheer As $15 Minimum Wage Advances In New York State","nprByline":"Hansi Lo Wang, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"425460095","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=425460095&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/23/425460095/fast-food-workers-cheer-as-15-minimum-wage-advances-in-new-york-state?ft=nprml&f=425460095","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 23 Jul 2015 09:40:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 23 Jul 2015 04:30:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 23 Jul 2015 09:15:31 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/07/20150723_me_fast-food_workers_cheer_as_15_minimum_wage_advances_in_new_york_state.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1017&d=152&p=3&story=425460095&t=progseg&e=425507632&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=425460095","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1425512002-77d167.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1017&d=152&p=3&story=425460095&t=progseg&e=425507632&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=425460095","path":"/bayareabites/98389/fast-food-workers-cheer-as-15-minimum-wage-advances-in-new-york-state","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/07/20150723_me_fast-food_workers_cheer_as_15_minimum_wage_advances_in_new_york_state.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1017&d=152&p=3&story=425460095&t=progseg&e=425507632&seg=7&ft=nprml&f=425460095","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2015/07/20150723_me_fast-food_workers_cheer_as_15_minimum_wage_advances_in_new_york_state.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There aren't a lot of obscure government board meetings that warrant a watch party, let alone one with a marching band.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's how fast-food restaurant workers and their supporters celebrated Wednesday on a blocked-off street in Manhattan, as they watched a state panel recommend a $6.25 increase in their hourly wage, to $15.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a victory! We have been fighting, and today we have made history,\" said Alvin Major, a 49-year-old cook at a KFC restaurant in Brooklyn. He said a $15 minimum wage would mean that he could stop relying on food stamps to feed his family of six.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This will help me to take care of my kids, send them to the right school and put food on the table,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bump to $15 an hour in New York, which would affect workers at chains with 30 or more stores nationally, would match recent increases in San Francisco, Seattle and Los Angeles. It would take effect over the next three years for New York City, and over the next six years for the entire state, if the state's labor commissioner approves the proposal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gov. Andrew Cuomo, who appointed the wage board that recommended the wage hike, called its proposal an important first step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will not stop until we reach true economic justice and we raise the minimum wage for every worker in every job in this state,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fast-food industry is one of New York's biggest employers of low-wage workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Randy Mastro, an attorney for fast-food franchise holders, says his clients are being unfairly targeted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are many other similarly situated restaurants, diners, food counters, not included in this proposal,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also could affect business growth, hiring and competition in the state, says Carolyn Richmond, who represents restaurant owners in the New York City Hospitality Alliance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the proposed wage hike would mean that some of her clients won't be able to hire more workers, and that smaller fast-food chains that want to expand might think twice before opening in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/98389/fast-food-workers-cheer-as-15-minimum-wage-advances-in-new-york-state","authors":["byline_bayareabites_98389"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_12104","bayareabites_11502","bayareabites_11505","bayareabites_2569","bayareabites_72"],"featImg":"bayareabites_98390","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82424":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82424","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82424","score":null,"sort":[1400853672000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning","title":"How Yelp Can Help Disease Detectives Track Food Poisoning","publishDate":1400853672,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82425\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/yelp-1_wide-c07e41ca11053d2d7c30aafa94556b2ea5e53f5f.jpg\" alt=\"The Yelp app maps out restaurant locations in Manhattan. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82425\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Yelp app maps out restaurant locations in Manhattan. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Richard Knox, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/22/314933875/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost 50 million Americans get food poisoning every year, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates. But only a tiny fraction of those cases get reported, making it tough to figure out where they came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But health officials recently discovered a trove of data that may help them discover outbreaks of foodborne illness and as well as the restaurants responsible for them, they \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6320a1.htm?s_cid=mm6320a1_w\">write\u003c/a> in the CDC's \u003cem>Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York City health authorities decided to see if the online restaurant review site Yelp could help direct them to unreported outbreaks. They looked through 294,000 Yelp restaurant reviews over a nine month period from 2012 to 2013 and found 900 of them that mentioned vomiting or diarrhea after eating at a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of those, nearly 500 people had described an episode consistent with foodborne illness, but only 3 percent of these incidents had been reported to New York City's non-emergency 311 services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One in seven warranted further investigation. Health workers interviewed reviewers and discovered three previously unreported outbreaks. Inspections of those restaurants revealed problems with food handling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In one of those outbreaks, which sickened three people who'd eaten shrimp and lobster cannelloni at a restaurant in January 2013, health inspectors found improper cold food storage, mouse and roaches and problems with utensil storage at the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CDC says New York is tweaking the method to make it more efficient. Meanwhile, Chicago\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/foodbornechi\"> is using Twitter\u003c/a> to contact people who tweet about getting sick after eating at a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Health officials say online restaurant reviews can turn up unreported foodborne illness outbreaks. In New York City, Yelp reviews led officials to three restaurants with food handling problems.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400821303,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":288},"headData":{"title":"How Yelp Can Help Disease Detectives Track Food Poisoning | KQED","description":"Health officials say online restaurant reviews can turn up unreported foodborne illness outbreaks. In New York City, Yelp reviews led officials to three restaurants with food handling problems.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Yelp Can Help Disease Detectives Track Food Poisoning","datePublished":"2014-05-23T14:01:12.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-23T05:01:43.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82424 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82424","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/23/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning/","disqusTitle":"How Yelp Can Help Disease Detectives Track Food Poisoning","nprByline":"Richard Knox","nprStoryId":"314933875","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=314933875&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/22/314933875/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning?ft=3&f=314933875","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 22 May 2014 18:01:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 22 May 2014 17:58:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 22 May 2014 18:01:29 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/82424/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82425\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/yelp-1_wide-c07e41ca11053d2d7c30aafa94556b2ea5e53f5f.jpg\" alt=\"The Yelp app maps out restaurant locations in Manhattan. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82425\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Yelp app maps out restaurant locations in Manhattan. Photo: Meredith Rizzo/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Richard Knox, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/22/314933875/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost 50 million Americans get food poisoning every year, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates. But only a tiny fraction of those cases get reported, making it tough to figure out where they came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But health officials recently discovered a trove of data that may help them discover outbreaks of foodborne illness and as well as the restaurants responsible for them, they \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6320a1.htm?s_cid=mm6320a1_w\">write\u003c/a> in the CDC's \u003cem>Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York City health authorities decided to see if the online restaurant review site Yelp could help direct them to unreported outbreaks. They looked through 294,000 Yelp restaurant reviews over a nine month period from 2012 to 2013 and found 900 of them that mentioned vomiting or diarrhea after eating at a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of those, nearly 500 people had described an episode consistent with foodborne illness, but only 3 percent of these incidents had been reported to New York City's non-emergency 311 services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One in seven warranted further investigation. Health workers interviewed reviewers and discovered three previously unreported outbreaks. Inspections of those restaurants revealed problems with food handling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In one of those outbreaks, which sickened three people who'd eaten shrimp and lobster cannelloni at a restaurant in January 2013, health inspectors found improper cold food storage, mouse and roaches and problems with utensil storage at the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CDC says New York is tweaking the method to make it more efficient. Meanwhile, Chicago\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/foodbornechi\"> is using Twitter\u003c/a> to contact people who tweet about getting sick after eating at a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82424/how-yelp-can-help-disease-detectives-track-food-poisoning","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82424"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_1927","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_10994","bayareabites_13078","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_939"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82425","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82272":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82272","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82272","score":null,"sort":[1400614501000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"delicious-a-novel-by-ruth-reichl-too-sweet-for-the-gourmet-editor","title":"Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor","publishDate":1400614501,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 6:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Ruth Reichl, best-selling memoirist and longtime food writer, pens her first novel, loosely based on her time as the editor in chief at the now-defunct Gourmet. Is it this summer's perfect foodie beach read, or too fluffy even for cupcake lovers? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen tastes-tests the treat. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1401729030,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1445},"headData":{"title":"Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor | KQED","description":"Ruth Reichl, best-selling memoirist and longtime food writer, pens her first novel, loosely based on her time as the editor in chief at the now-defunct Gourmet. Is it this summer's perfect foodie beach read, or too fluffy even for cupcake lovers? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen tastes-tests the treat. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor","datePublished":"2014-05-20T19:35:01.000Z","dateModified":"2014-06-02T17:10:30.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82272 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82272","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/20/delicious-a-novel-by-ruth-reichl-too-sweet-for-the-gourmet-editor/","disqusTitle":"Delicious!: A Novel, by Ruth Reichl -- Marshmallow Fiction from Gourmet's Former Editor","path":"/bayareabites/82272/delicious-a-novel-by-ruth-reichl-too-sweet-for-the-gourmet-editor","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82351\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 296px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Delicious-JPG-Cover-image.jpeg\" alt=\"Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\" width=\"296\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82351\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Delicious! A Novel Photo: Courtesy of Ruth Reichl\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It couldn't have been easy for editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl when \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>, the magazine she had run since 1999, was abruptly shuttered by parent company Conde Nast in 2009. The elegant monthly magazine had been in business since 1941, and Reichl had worked tirelessly for ten years to make it relevant in a rapidly changing gastronomic climate. As talented an editor and writer as Reichl was, however, she couldn't save \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> from the publishing world's pessimistic number-crunchers. Conde Nast axed the once-glamorous \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> in favor of its other food magazine, the bright, ad-generating, family-friendly \u003cem>\u003ca>Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all her insider knowledge of New York's wildly competitive, ambition-driven, gossip-riddled restaurant and food world, one would expect to see Reichl tapping out her own tell-all of that heady time. After all, she has already written three best-selling, well-received and unflinchingly truthful memoirs, starting with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981111/kqedorg-20\">Tender at the Bone\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, which described her childhood with a mentally disturbed, food-hording mother, followed by her freewheeling life as a hippie chef turned restaurant critic in 1970s California. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812981626/kqedorg-20\">Comfort Me with Apples\u003c/a>\u003c/em> had her touring Europe with \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em> editor Colman Andrews, getting a sentimental and culinary education at his side. \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143036610/kqedorg-20\">Garlic and Sapphires\u003c/a>\u003c/em> detailed her wig-wearing, persona-creating experiments as the all-powerful restaurant reviewer at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. Clearly, Reichl can write, and write well, on a variety of topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Ruth-Reichl-Photo300.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Reichl. Photo: Fiona Aboud\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But while good novelists usually have the chops to be good memoirists, the reverse is not often true. Despite being based around a \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine stand-in named \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em>, Reichl's first foray into fiction, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069629/kqedorg-20\">Delicious!\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, is less \u003cem>roman à clef\u003c/em> than Nancy Drew-ishly-plotted novel about an ugly duckling coming into her own in the big city. Fluffy, sweet, and wholly unbelievable, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> isn't being marketed as a young-adult book, but it might as well be, except that it's too sugary for a genre now dominated by dark, dystopian fantasies and sexed-up vampires. There's no devil wearing Prada here. Instead, everyone's gorgeous, everyone's charming, and (most unbelievable of all) everyone's friendly, eager to get instantly helpfully chummy with Reichl's frumpy little nobody of a heroine, Billie Breslin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because isn't that \u003cem>exactly\u003c/em> what life is like in the New York media world? Billie shows up, a badly dressed college dropout with dorky glasses and baggy khakis, who suffers panic attacks when asked to cook, and suddenly the editor of the city's top food magazine wants her as his assistant. On her very first day, the glad-handing owner of the best Italian deli in the city hires her on the spot for a second job that turns into a second family. Within days, she's hanging out with her new magazine pals, drinking endless glasses of wine and scarfing up plates of duck hearts at their cool chef friends' new restaurants. Oh, and at the two-month point, that silver-fox editor takes her out for expensive sushi and assigns her a long feature story about the deli where she's working. Without asking permission from her deli-owner boss, she writes it, brilliantly, in a single all-nighter. And why worry about negligible publishing salaries when dad's paying the rent on that sweet walk-up on hipster-ridden Rivington Street? Even the character's name manages to evoke both \u003ca href=\"http://thebreslin.com/\">The Breslin\u003c/a>, a hot restaurant hangout helmed by Brit-chef April Bloomfield (fictionalized here as Thursday Brown, owner of The Pig, a hardly-disguised version of \u003ca href=\"http://thespottedpig.com/\">The Spotted Pig\u003c/a>, another of Bloomfield's popular restaurants) and the Pulitzer-Prize-winning, longtime NYC journalist Jimmy Breslin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hired to answer the phone and fetch coffee, suddenly Billie's swimming in feature assignments involving cute farmers and voluble fishermen and fun travel all around the country, because that's just how brand-new careers go in the kooky New York magazine world. See, Billie has that one-in-a-million skill, the pitch-perfect palate. She can pick out a whisper of curry leaf in a spinach-saffron-Parmesan gnocchi that Thursday pops into her mouth the minute she walks into The Pig's crowded kitchen. Oh, how she regrets that in a \"chocolate that tastes like rain,\" she can pick out only \"hyssop and maybe myrtle, and a bit of cassia\" before \"the flavors get away from\" her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone treats Billie's palate like it's Barry Zito's throwing arm in its prime, but, in fact, it's not exactly a novel talent. Anyone who tastes for a living learns to cultivate sense memories and build a mental database of flavors and scents, so that faced with a dish you can say this is cardamom, this is coriander, this is fenugreek, and that is turmeric. Hardly rocket science. For any food writer or recipe developer or (presumably) chef, identifying, remembering, and recalling flavors is a basic part of the necessary skill set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that's the first 80 pages or so, until, as in life, \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is abruptly shuttered, leaving Billie adrift but, weirdly, still employed as a lone phone voice kept on to honor the \"Delicious! Guarantee,\" a longtime marketing gimmick that promised readers satisfaction with all the magazine's recipes or the cost of their ingredients back. The remaining two-thirds of the book becomes Scooby Doo with cell phones, as intrepid girl reporter Billie discovers, in a secret room in the magazine's long-locked library, a hidden! cache! of! nifty! letters! written by a perkily precocious girl named Lulu to none other but James Beard, who, as a gay soldier during World War II, had nothing better to do than share wartime-rationing cooking tips and canned life lessons with a chatty teenage pen pal from Akron, Ohio. One of the magazine's last librarians, obviously with too much time on his hands, has created an elaborate, yet essentially pointless, treasure hunt for the letters through the library's idiosyncratic card file, which Billie follows with breathless, Velma-worthy excitement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only, as readers, we could care about annoyingly chipper little Lulu, persecuted by mean teachers for her milkweed-foraging habits and fondness for pasta (enemy food, in that Axis-fearing era). Or about little Billie, who turns out to have a size-six killer bod AND fabulous fashion sense AND a trust fund on tap from The Cake Sisters, the wildly successful baking business she and her sister started as pre-teens and ran until college, when her absolutely, positively flawless older sister was run down by a speeding Jaguar as she carried the toppers for a $30,000 wedding-cupcake extravaganza across the street. (This is the perfectly perfect dead sister in whose shadow Billie has been willingly standing throughout the whole book, until Big Sis is revealed to have been snorting all her cake-baking profits up her nose, a habit proven after her death thanks to the meticulous written records kept by her coke dealer about all his clients. Because, of course, drug dealers: just like accountants that way.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, there are moments when Reichl's extensive knowledge of the actual New York food world peeks through. But the howlers outnumber the real world moments by the dozens. Like Billie's devoted boyfriend, Mitch, a well-regarded architectural historian and professor who is surely a little old to be dating a woman of barely legal drinking age. Mitch comes straight from the sensitive urban-hunk division of rom-com casting as he reaches beneath his platform bed, promising \"and now for the major attraction.\" Handcuffs? Sex toys? Nope--just the ultimate foodie fantasy: an under-the-bed freezer drawer stocked with post-coital coffee ice cream, enough to make him worth at least a Ben & Jerry's-fueled booty call or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews shortly after \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> closed, Reichl implied that another memoir, this time about her life at the magazine, was on its way. If you want the full Reichl-style meal, better wait for that one. \u003cem>Delicious!\u003c/em> is all frosting and no filling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ruth Reichl is discussing Delicious! A Novel at the following Bay Area venues this week:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/20, 7 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.paloaltojcc.org/events/2014/05/20/cultural-arts/book-signing-ruth-reichl-em-delicious-em/\" target=\"_blank\">Commonwealth Club/JCC\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3921 Fabian Way, Palo Alto\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/events/2014-05-20/ruth-reichl\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 12:15 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://bookpassage.com/event/literary-lunch-ruth-reichl-delicious\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5/21, 6:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">More information about the event\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82272/delicious-a-novel-by-ruth-reichl-too-sweet-for-the-gourmet-editor","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_2154","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_13396","bayareabites_2153"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82353","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79901":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79901","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79901","score":null,"sort":[1396635767000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-i-survived-my-one-night-as-a-prep-cook-in-chef-david-changs-momofuku-noodle-bar","title":"How I Survived My One Night as a Prep Cook in Chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar","publishDate":1396635767,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/momofuku.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-79913\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/momofuku.jpg\" alt=\"momofuku\" width=\"1642\" height=\"957\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Illustrations by Jenny Oh\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the early aughts, when I still lived in New York City before moving to the Bay Area, an early mid-life crisis propelled me to temporarily jettison my career in television production. While most of my professional life had been devoted to working on stories for public media and documentaries about the arts, several regrettable stints (but necessary for my paycheck) in the encroaching blight of reality television programming left a sour taste in my mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scanning Craigslist jobs listings one day, as I pondered what to do next in between freelance gigs, I decided to click on the “food/beverage/hospitality” section. I had a deep love for food – cooking it, eating it, obsessing over it – so perhaps my future would lead me down a different path of storytelling: through culinary creations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79925\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/porkbun-290x177.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/porkbun-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Momofuku's steamed pork belly bun\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-79925\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Momofuku's steamed pork belly bun\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A post seeking a prep cook for a relatively new “noodle bar” in the East Village called \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/new-york/noodle-bar/\" target=\"_blank\">Momofuku\u003c/a> caught my eye. I can’t recall most of the details listed in the ad, but I do remember it said they’d be willing to train someone with little to no experience in a restaurant kitchen – which would definitely be me. So I wrote up a short cover letter explaining my desire for a possible career change, emailed my resume and crossed my fingers I'd hear back them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that week, I was happily surprised when I was called in for a morning interview before the restaurant opened for service later that day. I briefly chatted with Joaquin Baca*, one of Momofuku’s chefs, who said that Chef Chang would be in shortly to meet with me. Not too long after, a tall, beefy guy strode in the door, with a swagger in his step and iPod earbuds jammed into his ears; he looked more like a guitarist in an indie rock band recovering from a long night of drinking rather than a reputable chef. He promptly plugged his device into Momofuku’s sound system and his heavy metal playlist began blaring in the background from the speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79911\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 224px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/davidchang.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/davidchang-224x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chef & Entrepreneur David Chang\" width=\"224\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79911\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef & Entrepreneur David Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our chat was brief. He didn’t mince words and spoke with a no-bullsh** demeanor. While he sat back in his chair with a casual informality, his face conveyed a serious intensity about his work. Chef Chang gave me an overview of Momofuku, its menu, his love for ramen and their signature pork buns that were growing in popularity. I basically reiterated my sentiments in my cover letter, adding that I loved Japanese food and would love to be given the opportunity to learn as much as possible there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well, to be honest, “ I recall him pausing for a a moment while looking down at my resume in his hand. “I’ve got my doubts. You’re pretty old and have no experience with cooking professionally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bit of blunt honesty stung for a moment, as I didn’t consider myself quite “old” yet in my early 30’s, but true -- I was certainly no fresh-faced kid, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“But I’ll give you a shot. You’ll be working long hours for $400 a week. Can you start today?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today? I figured I’d better say yes before he changed his mind and enthusiastically agreed to get started right away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He introduced me to the various staff we encountered during a short tour of the restaurant -- dishwashers, servers, other cooks – then led me down into the basement to meet the prep cook who he was looking to replace. (I can’t remember his name, so I’ll call him Prep.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Chang was pretty pissed at Prep; “I TRAINED this guy, I INVESTED in this guy for four solid months and now he’s f’ing leaving me.” Prep, a quiet, unassuming guy in his early-20’s, definitely looked ready to be on his way out. He greeted me with a tired smile and later on, confided to me that he was leaving this occupation for good as he found it far too grueling. “But I’m sure you’ll do fine,” he said, with a half-hearted note of encouragement in his voice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rest of the night was a blur of instructions. I followed Prep around the kitchen like a crazed puppy dog, trying to memorize where everything was and what to do and what not to do. As I ran up and down the stairs from the basement to the dining room, Joaquin warned me, “Always let people know where you are,\" after I nearly crashed into another cook. There was only a minimal prep space upstairs behind the narrow counter for customers, so there was a lot of shouting of, “Behind you,” when cooks rushed through carrying pots of hot of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79912\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/greenonions.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/greenonions-290x202.jpg\" alt=\"scallions\" width=\"290\" height=\"202\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79912\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many scallions to chop...\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My first formidable task was given directly to me by Chef Chang; he set down a large crate of scallions on the table and said, “Chop up this entire box, please.” A wave of panic silently passed over me but I nodded and said, “Yes, Chef.” Prep lent me a knife from his roll (not realizing everyone had their own personal stash of knives which they treated like royalty, I sheepishly had to borrow knives from Prep throughout my shift.) I got to work, methodically trying to produce a perfect pile of thinly sliced scallions that were used as garnish for many of their dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Chang came back about 10 minutes later to inspect my of handiwork – the miniscule amount that was available for him to critique -- and he admonished, “NO, NO – you’re going too slowly. Do it like THIS.” Chef Chang took the knife away from me, blazed through a pile in scallions in one smooth, tat-tat-tat gesture, then said, “Now it’s your turn.” I anxiously began hacking away at the scallions as quickly as possible, hoping it wasn’t too much of a butcher job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later on, Chef Chang assigned me my second daunting task of the night: making the “family meal” for the staff. Now the pressure was really on, as I didn’t want to screw up the one meal all of the staff would eat before embarking on their long shift. He told me there were some chicken legs, rice and some leftover ingredients I could use for the early dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to braise them and set to work browning the chicken legs on the stove. As they were frying up, he’d come down periodically, glancing suspiciously over at my sluggish progress. I was now sweating profusely from the relentless heat of the oil in that small, cramped space and my increasing stress. Chef Chang finally marched over to me, loomed over my shoulder and shouted, “What the f--- ARE you doing?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79931\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chicken-290x161.jpg\" alt=\"roast chicken\" width=\"290\" height=\"161\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79931\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasting chicken legs for the family meal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Uhhhhh….I’m braising chicken, Chef.” He gave me an incredulous look that basically said, “What in the actual f---“ and said, “That’s going to take WAY too long. Prep, help her broil this chicken and get this family meal finished NOW.” We hurriedly loaded the chicken legs onto sheet pans, stuck them in the oven, then busied ourselves with getting everything else ready for the meal. (I vaguely recall it being edible and we even received a compliment or two.) Chef Chang informed his staff he’d put up a list of food critics to watch out for on the wall, so, \"PLEASE be on the lookout for these VIP’s.\" Service began shortly thereafter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the evening, after the last customer had left, the doors were shut and we had finished cleaning up the prep kitchen, I went over to talk to Chef Chang privately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want to thank you for giving me a chance today, but you were absolutely right. I’m not cut out for this,” with a slight quaver in my voice. He gave me a sympathetic look, a solemn nod and shook my hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Good luck with whatever you do,” he replied. I said my goodbyes to the rest of the staff and returned home to Brooklyn, feeling demoralized and even more adrift than before. Years later, after several other attempts of working in the food industry, I left New York City, relocated to San Francisco and returned to producing stories for public media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my friends, a professional chef who spent over a decade honing his craft in many high-end New York City restaurants within the fine dining world, advised me: “Chances are you’ll be on your feet for 14+ hours a day with low pay for many years. There’s no reason to do it unless you really, really love it.” I knew that I didn’t have the kind of commitment, drive or talent it takes to survive in the business; my unrealistic, overly romanticized notions of food and paltry amateur skills weren’t going to translate into a successful career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been great watching Chef David Chang’s star rise over time as his \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\" target=\"_blank\">burgeoning empire\u003c/a> (and sometimes, even his \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/8322/san-francisco-to-david-chang-go-momofuku-yourself/\" target=\"_blank\">notoriety\u003c/a>) continues to expand internationally. I’ve got his Momofuku cookbook and several issues of \u003ca href=\"http://lky.ph/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> on my bookshelf and consider myself honored that I was able to spend one night in his kitchen, toiling away over a box of scallions. While I’m sure my knife skills haven’t improved much since then, at the very least, I came away with some valuable insights about myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>I learned later on that he was one of his co-chefs and partners; he’s since gone on to open up the acclaimed restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://thebrooklynstar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Brooklyn Star\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sweat, stress and slow progress -- those words basically sum up my sole stint as a prep cook at Momofuku Noodle Bar, the first establishment of Chef David Chang's renowned restaurant group. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1396891148,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1724},"headData":{"title":"How I Survived My One Night as a Prep Cook in Chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar | KQED","description":"Sweat, stress and slow progress -- those words basically sum up my sole stint as a prep cook at Momofuku Noodle Bar, the first establishment of Chef David Chang's renowned restaurant group. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How I Survived My One Night as a Prep Cook in Chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar","datePublished":"2014-04-04T18:22:47.000Z","dateModified":"2014-04-07T17:19:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79901 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79901","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/04/how-i-survived-my-one-night-as-a-prep-cook-in-chef-david-changs-momofuku-noodle-bar/","disqusTitle":"How I Survived My One Night as a Prep Cook in Chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar","path":"/bayareabites/79901/how-i-survived-my-one-night-as-a-prep-cook-in-chef-david-changs-momofuku-noodle-bar","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/momofuku.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-79913\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/momofuku.jpg\" alt=\"momofuku\" width=\"1642\" height=\"957\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Illustrations by Jenny Oh\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the early aughts, when I still lived in New York City before moving to the Bay Area, an early mid-life crisis propelled me to temporarily jettison my career in television production. While most of my professional life had been devoted to working on stories for public media and documentaries about the arts, several regrettable stints (but necessary for my paycheck) in the encroaching blight of reality television programming left a sour taste in my mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scanning Craigslist jobs listings one day, as I pondered what to do next in between freelance gigs, I decided to click on the “food/beverage/hospitality” section. I had a deep love for food – cooking it, eating it, obsessing over it – so perhaps my future would lead me down a different path of storytelling: through culinary creations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79925\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/porkbun-290x177.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/porkbun-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Momofuku's steamed pork belly bun\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-79925\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Momofuku's steamed pork belly bun\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A post seeking a prep cook for a relatively new “noodle bar” in the East Village called \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/new-york/noodle-bar/\" target=\"_blank\">Momofuku\u003c/a> caught my eye. I can’t recall most of the details listed in the ad, but I do remember it said they’d be willing to train someone with little to no experience in a restaurant kitchen – which would definitely be me. So I wrote up a short cover letter explaining my desire for a possible career change, emailed my resume and crossed my fingers I'd hear back them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that week, I was happily surprised when I was called in for a morning interview before the restaurant opened for service later that day. I briefly chatted with Joaquin Baca*, one of Momofuku’s chefs, who said that Chef Chang would be in shortly to meet with me. Not too long after, a tall, beefy guy strode in the door, with a swagger in his step and iPod earbuds jammed into his ears; he looked more like a guitarist in an indie rock band recovering from a long night of drinking rather than a reputable chef. He promptly plugged his device into Momofuku’s sound system and his heavy metal playlist began blaring in the background from the speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79911\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 224px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/davidchang.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/davidchang-224x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chef & Entrepreneur David Chang\" width=\"224\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79911\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef & Entrepreneur David Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our chat was brief. He didn’t mince words and spoke with a no-bullsh** demeanor. While he sat back in his chair with a casual informality, his face conveyed a serious intensity about his work. Chef Chang gave me an overview of Momofuku, its menu, his love for ramen and their signature pork buns that were growing in popularity. I basically reiterated my sentiments in my cover letter, adding that I loved Japanese food and would love to be given the opportunity to learn as much as possible there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well, to be honest, “ I recall him pausing for a a moment while looking down at my resume in his hand. “I’ve got my doubts. You’re pretty old and have no experience with cooking professionally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This bit of blunt honesty stung for a moment, as I didn’t consider myself quite “old” yet in my early 30’s, but true -- I was certainly no fresh-faced kid, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“But I’ll give you a shot. You’ll be working long hours for $400 a week. Can you start today?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today? I figured I’d better say yes before he changed his mind and enthusiastically agreed to get started right away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He introduced me to the various staff we encountered during a short tour of the restaurant -- dishwashers, servers, other cooks – then led me down into the basement to meet the prep cook who he was looking to replace. (I can’t remember his name, so I’ll call him Prep.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Chang was pretty pissed at Prep; “I TRAINED this guy, I INVESTED in this guy for four solid months and now he’s f’ing leaving me.” Prep, a quiet, unassuming guy in his early-20’s, definitely looked ready to be on his way out. He greeted me with a tired smile and later on, confided to me that he was leaving this occupation for good as he found it far too grueling. “But I’m sure you’ll do fine,” he said, with a half-hearted note of encouragement in his voice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rest of the night was a blur of instructions. I followed Prep around the kitchen like a crazed puppy dog, trying to memorize where everything was and what to do and what not to do. As I ran up and down the stairs from the basement to the dining room, Joaquin warned me, “Always let people know where you are,\" after I nearly crashed into another cook. There was only a minimal prep space upstairs behind the narrow counter for customers, so there was a lot of shouting of, “Behind you,” when cooks rushed through carrying pots of hot of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79912\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/greenonions.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/greenonions-290x202.jpg\" alt=\"scallions\" width=\"290\" height=\"202\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79912\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many scallions to chop...\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My first formidable task was given directly to me by Chef Chang; he set down a large crate of scallions on the table and said, “Chop up this entire box, please.” A wave of panic silently passed over me but I nodded and said, “Yes, Chef.” Prep lent me a knife from his roll (not realizing everyone had their own personal stash of knives which they treated like royalty, I sheepishly had to borrow knives from Prep throughout my shift.) I got to work, methodically trying to produce a perfect pile of thinly sliced scallions that were used as garnish for many of their dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Chang came back about 10 minutes later to inspect my of handiwork – the miniscule amount that was available for him to critique -- and he admonished, “NO, NO – you’re going too slowly. Do it like THIS.” Chef Chang took the knife away from me, blazed through a pile in scallions in one smooth, tat-tat-tat gesture, then said, “Now it’s your turn.” I anxiously began hacking away at the scallions as quickly as possible, hoping it wasn’t too much of a butcher job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later on, Chef Chang assigned me my second daunting task of the night: making the “family meal” for the staff. Now the pressure was really on, as I didn’t want to screw up the one meal all of the staff would eat before embarking on their long shift. He told me there were some chicken legs, rice and some leftover ingredients I could use for the early dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to braise them and set to work browning the chicken legs on the stove. As they were frying up, he’d come down periodically, glancing suspiciously over at my sluggish progress. I was now sweating profusely from the relentless heat of the oil in that small, cramped space and my increasing stress. Chef Chang finally marched over to me, loomed over my shoulder and shouted, “What the f--- ARE you doing?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79931\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/chicken-290x161.jpg\" alt=\"roast chicken\" width=\"290\" height=\"161\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-79931\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasting chicken legs for the family meal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Uhhhhh….I’m braising chicken, Chef.” He gave me an incredulous look that basically said, “What in the actual f---“ and said, “That’s going to take WAY too long. Prep, help her broil this chicken and get this family meal finished NOW.” We hurriedly loaded the chicken legs onto sheet pans, stuck them in the oven, then busied ourselves with getting everything else ready for the meal. (I vaguely recall it being edible and we even received a compliment or two.) Chef Chang informed his staff he’d put up a list of food critics to watch out for on the wall, so, \"PLEASE be on the lookout for these VIP’s.\" Service began shortly thereafter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the evening, after the last customer had left, the doors were shut and we had finished cleaning up the prep kitchen, I went over to talk to Chef Chang privately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want to thank you for giving me a chance today, but you were absolutely right. I’m not cut out for this,” with a slight quaver in my voice. He gave me a sympathetic look, a solemn nod and shook my hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Good luck with whatever you do,” he replied. I said my goodbyes to the rest of the staff and returned home to Brooklyn, feeling demoralized and even more adrift than before. Years later, after several other attempts of working in the food industry, I left New York City, relocated to San Francisco and returned to producing stories for public media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my friends, a professional chef who spent over a decade honing his craft in many high-end New York City restaurants within the fine dining world, advised me: “Chances are you’ll be on your feet for 14+ hours a day with low pay for many years. There’s no reason to do it unless you really, really love it.” I knew that I didn’t have the kind of commitment, drive or talent it takes to survive in the business; my unrealistic, overly romanticized notions of food and paltry amateur skills weren’t going to translate into a successful career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been great watching Chef David Chang’s star rise over time as his \u003ca href=\"http://momofuku.com/\" target=\"_blank\">burgeoning empire\u003c/a> (and sometimes, even his \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/8322/san-francisco-to-david-chang-go-momofuku-yourself/\" target=\"_blank\">notoriety\u003c/a>) continues to expand internationally. I’ve got his Momofuku cookbook and several issues of \u003ca href=\"http://lky.ph/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a> on my bookshelf and consider myself honored that I was able to spend one night in his kitchen, toiling away over a box of scallions. While I’m sure my knife skills haven’t improved much since then, at the very least, I came away with some valuable insights about myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>I learned later on that he was one of his co-chefs and partners; he’s since gone on to open up the acclaimed restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://thebrooklynstar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Brooklyn Star\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79901/how-i-survived-my-one-night-as-a-prep-cook-in-chef-david-changs-momofuku-noodle-bar","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_334"],"tags":["bayareabites_14744","bayareabites_569","bayareabites_9087","bayareabites_13235","bayareabites_72"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79929","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78986","score":null,"sort":[1394553878000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria","title":"Turning Food Waste Into Fuel Takes Gumption and Trillions of Bacteria ","publishDate":1394553878,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78987\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek_31_wide-39dddd70ecb3cf18b6083f7a788e64f33f486425.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek_31_wide-39dddd70ecb3cf18b6083f7a788e64f33f486425-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"The digester eggs at Newtown Creek Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn contain millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78987\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The digester eggs at Newtown Creek Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn contain millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/159989569/joel-rose\" target=\"_blank\">Joel Rose\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/11/287310897/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/11/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/11/287310897/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140311_me_turning_food_waste_into_fuel_takes_gumption_and_trillions_of_bacteria_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Americans send millions of tons of food to the landfill. What if you could use all of those pizza crusts and rotten vegetables to heat your home? That's already happening in one unlikely laboratory: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/html/environmental_education/newtown_wwtp.shtml\">Newtown Creek\u003c/a> Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plant's longtime superintendent, Jimmy Pynn, shows off the plant's crown jewels: eight huge, shiny, oval-shaped steel tanks known as digester eggs. Each one contains millions of gallons of black sludge that's roughly the consistency of pea soup. Pynn calls it \"black gold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It has a pungent odor to it,\" Pynn says. \"To most people it's like ugly, yucky stuff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where others see foul and potentially hazardous sludge, Pynn sees a source of renewable energy, thanks to trillions of helpful bacteria inside the digester eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The digesters like to be fed like us: three times a day,\" he says. \"They like to be kept warm, 98 degrees. And whether we want to admit it or not, we all make gas. And that's what we have these guys for: to make gas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek-wwtp-501141b1289965fd7504edd1806a1cf1e26015c0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek-wwtp-501141b1289965fd7504edd1806a1cf1e26015c0-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"There are eight digester eggs. They're made of steel, and each contains millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78988\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are eight digester eggs. They're made of steel, and each contains millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In this case, that gas is methane, which can be used to heat homes or make electricity. Right now, what these bacteria are digesting is mostly sewage sludge. But they're being introduced to a new diet: food scraps. The hope is that this plant will soon take in hundreds of tons of organic waste from houses and apartments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We could be taking all of Brooklyn's organics,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyc.gov/html/dsny/html/about/org_dc_bwprr.shtml\">Ron Gonen\u003c/a>, New York's deputy commissioner for recycling, \"and rather than paying millions of dollars to send it to landfill, right here in Brooklyn, converting it into clean, renewable energy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is similar to what happens in your backyard compost heap — but here, the bacteria do their work without oxygen. It's called anaerobic digestion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anaerobic digestion isn't a brand new idea. What is new is the idea of adding food waste into the mix, at least in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's already being done in Europe, and a handful of cities in California and Canada are experimenting, as well as a famous theme park that creates a lot of food-related trash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpower.com/about/board-of-directors/\">Paul Sellew\u003c/a> heads Harvest Power in Waltham, Mass. It recently built a digester to handle the waste from the Walt Disney World Resort in Florida and the local community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cardboard packaging, past-prime produce, rotten tomatoes, fats, oils, greases from fryers, past-prime dairy products and loaves of bread — those are all great food-stuffs for an anaerobic digester,\" says Sellew. \"My microorganisms love that. That's their five-course meal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the operation at Disney has nothing on the complexity of implementing a food waste system in New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything in New York City is like big scale when you're talking about quantities of waste,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.baruch.cuny.edu/spa/facultystaff/facultydirectory/bio_macBride.php\">Samantha MacBride\u003c/a>, a former New York sanitation official who's now a professor at the City University of New York's Baruch College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now, it's all in its infancy,\" says MacBride. \"And it's a huge question mark about whether it can grow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One challenge is how to separate the organic material from the rest of the trash in a city as dense as New York. \"When you're in an apartment building, to separate out food scraps — it requires a lot of dedication and attention,\" says MacBride. \"It doesn't have to stink, and it doesn't have to be inconvenient. But it takes extra work.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York restaurants are about to find out just \u003cem>how much\u003c/em> extra work next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2015, they will be required to stop sending their organic waste to landfills. And it is not yet clear where all that organic waste will go. For example, the digester eggs at Newtown Creek are just starting to take food waste. And they can only handle a small fraction of what's coming.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the first, what I'll call the baby step,\" says Paul Sellew at Harvest Power. \"Because ultimately in New York City, just the restaurants alone, you're talking well over a million tons a year,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This fledgling industry is trying to build more compost plants and digesters to handle all of that waste, says Sellew. The costliest part may be finding good locations in or around the nation's biggest cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the trillions of bacteria? They'll work for free — as long as you feed them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A Brooklyn waste treatment plant has become an unlikely lab for an ambitious effort to turn millions of tons of food scraps from New York City's apartments and restaurants into renewable energy.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394553878,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":846},"headData":{"title":"Turning Food Waste Into Fuel Takes Gumption and Trillions of Bacteria | KQED","description":"A Brooklyn waste treatment plant has become an unlikely lab for an ambitious effort to turn millions of tons of food scraps from New York City's apartments and restaurants into renewable energy.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Turning Food Waste Into Fuel Takes Gumption and Trillions of Bacteria ","datePublished":"2014-03-11T16:04:38.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-11T16:04:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/11/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria/","disqusTitle":"Turning Food Waste Into Fuel Takes Gumption and Trillions of Bacteria ","nprByline":"Joel Rose","nprStoryId":"287310897","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=287310897&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/11/287310897/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria?ft=3&f=287310897","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 11 Mar 2014 10:28:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 11 Mar 2014 03:06:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 11 Mar 2014 09:07:01 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140311_me_turning_food_waste_into_fuel_takes_gumption_and_trillions_of_bacteria_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=287310897","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1288883527-92f18e.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=287310897","path":"/bayareabites/78986/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140311_me_turning_food_waste_into_fuel_takes_gumption_and_trillions_of_bacteria_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=287310897","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78987\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek_31_wide-39dddd70ecb3cf18b6083f7a788e64f33f486425.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek_31_wide-39dddd70ecb3cf18b6083f7a788e64f33f486425-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"The digester eggs at Newtown Creek Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn contain millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78987\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The digester eggs at Newtown Creek Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn contain millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/159989569/joel-rose\" target=\"_blank\">Joel Rose\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/11/287310897/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/11/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/11/287310897/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140311_me_turning_food_waste_into_fuel_takes_gumption_and_trillions_of_bacteria_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Americans send millions of tons of food to the landfill. What if you could use all of those pizza crusts and rotten vegetables to heat your home? That's already happening in one unlikely laboratory: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/html/environmental_education/newtown_wwtp.shtml\">Newtown Creek\u003c/a> Wastewater Treatment Plant in Brooklyn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plant's longtime superintendent, Jimmy Pynn, shows off the plant's crown jewels: eight huge, shiny, oval-shaped steel tanks known as digester eggs. Each one contains millions of gallons of black sludge that's roughly the consistency of pea soup. Pynn calls it \"black gold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It has a pungent odor to it,\" Pynn says. \"To most people it's like ugly, yucky stuff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where others see foul and potentially hazardous sludge, Pynn sees a source of renewable energy, thanks to trillions of helpful bacteria inside the digester eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The digesters like to be fed like us: three times a day,\" he says. \"They like to be kept warm, 98 degrees. And whether we want to admit it or not, we all make gas. And that's what we have these guys for: to make gas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek-wwtp-501141b1289965fd7504edd1806a1cf1e26015c0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/newtown-creek-wwtp-501141b1289965fd7504edd1806a1cf1e26015c0-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"There are eight digester eggs. They're made of steel, and each contains millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78988\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are eight digester eggs. They're made of steel, and each contains millions of gallons of black sludge. Photo: Courtesy of New York City Department of Environmental Protection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In this case, that gas is methane, which can be used to heat homes or make electricity. Right now, what these bacteria are digesting is mostly sewage sludge. But they're being introduced to a new diet: food scraps. The hope is that this plant will soon take in hundreds of tons of organic waste from houses and apartments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We could be taking all of Brooklyn's organics,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyc.gov/html/dsny/html/about/org_dc_bwprr.shtml\">Ron Gonen\u003c/a>, New York's deputy commissioner for recycling, \"and rather than paying millions of dollars to send it to landfill, right here in Brooklyn, converting it into clean, renewable energy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is similar to what happens in your backyard compost heap — but here, the bacteria do their work without oxygen. It's called anaerobic digestion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anaerobic digestion isn't a brand new idea. What is new is the idea of adding food waste into the mix, at least in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's already being done in Europe, and a handful of cities in California and Canada are experimenting, as well as a famous theme park that creates a lot of food-related trash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpower.com/about/board-of-directors/\">Paul Sellew\u003c/a> heads Harvest Power in Waltham, Mass. It recently built a digester to handle the waste from the Walt Disney World Resort in Florida and the local community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cardboard packaging, past-prime produce, rotten tomatoes, fats, oils, greases from fryers, past-prime dairy products and loaves of bread — those are all great food-stuffs for an anaerobic digester,\" says Sellew. \"My microorganisms love that. That's their five-course meal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the operation at Disney has nothing on the complexity of implementing a food waste system in New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything in New York City is like big scale when you're talking about quantities of waste,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.baruch.cuny.edu/spa/facultystaff/facultydirectory/bio_macBride.php\">Samantha MacBride\u003c/a>, a former New York sanitation official who's now a professor at the City University of New York's Baruch College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now, it's all in its infancy,\" says MacBride. \"And it's a huge question mark about whether it can grow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One challenge is how to separate the organic material from the rest of the trash in a city as dense as New York. \"When you're in an apartment building, to separate out food scraps — it requires a lot of dedication and attention,\" says MacBride. \"It doesn't have to stink, and it doesn't have to be inconvenient. But it takes extra work.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York restaurants are about to find out just \u003cem>how much\u003c/em> extra work next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2015, they will be required to stop sending their organic waste to landfills. And it is not yet clear where all that organic waste will go. For example, the digester eggs at Newtown Creek are just starting to take food waste. And they can only handle a small fraction of what's coming.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the first, what I'll call the baby step,\" says Paul Sellew at Harvest Power. \"Because ultimately in New York City, just the restaurants alone, you're talking well over a million tons a year,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This fledgling industry is trying to build more compost plants and digesters to handle all of that waste, says Sellew. The costliest part may be finding good locations in or around the nation's biggest cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the trillions of bacteria? They'll work for free — as long as you feed them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78986/turning-food-waste-into-fuel-takes-gumption-and-trillions-of-bacteria","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78986"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2524","bayareabites_3707","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78991","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_64907":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64907","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64907","score":null,"sort":[1373401584000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-there-are-too-few-cooks-for-new-york-citys-elite-kitchens","title":"Why There Are Too Few Cooks For New York City's Elite Kitchens ","publishDate":1373401584,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64912\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/backfortywest-nyc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/backfortywest-nyc-1024x763.jpg\" alt=\"A view inside the kitchen at chef Peter Hoffman's farm-to-table restaurant, Back Forty West, in New York's Soho neighborhood. Photo: Simon Doggett/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"763\" class=\"size-large wp-image-64912\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view inside the kitchen at chef Peter Hoffman's farm-to-table restaurant, Back Forty West, in New York's Soho neighborhood. Photo: Simon Doggett/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/199102553/Too-Few-Cooks-For-New-York-Citys-Elite-Kitchens\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/07/20130709_me_10.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Jane Black, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/199102553/Too-Few-Cooks-For-New-York-Citys-Elite-Kitchens\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/9/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York City has long been considered the nation's epicenter for all things culinary. The borough of Manhattan had more than 6,000 restaurants at last count. And the city has the most three-star Michelin-starred restaurants in the country — closing in on Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lately, some cooks have begun to go elsewhere to make names for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the reasons for the culinary exodus: Chefs' obsession with local ingredients is making smaller communities a lot more appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the good old days, which weren't actually all that long ago, it was easy for people like chef Peter Hoffman to hire experienced cooks. Lately, though, the chef shortage has turned his recruiting process into something of an extreme sport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I began to ask myself the questions: 'What is going on?' \" Hoffman says. \"'Where has everybody gone?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoffman used to post an ad on Craig's List for his farm-to-table restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://backfortynyc.com/locations/back-forty-west-soho/\">Back Forty West\u003c/a>, in New York's Soho neighborhood, and then watch the resumes roll in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days? It's either bupkis or a slew of applicants with just a few months of experience — at restaurants like McDonald's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I sat down in certain desperate moments and sent an email to every single cook that I knew,\" he says, \"and said, 'We're looking, we need people.' And what I got back for the most part were, 'Sorry, dude, wish I could help you, I'm in the same boat.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No cooks in Manhattan? Careers in food have never been more fashionable. It feels like you can't turn on the TV without seeing a pack of \"cheftestants\" battling for a chance at stardom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who don't make it, New York is no picnic. The going rate for cooks in Manhattan is $10 an hour — $12 if you are lucky. And the commute to a place you can actually afford to live on that kind of money can be long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shanna Pacifico, the head chef at Back Forty West, has lived in the city for 14 years. Over that time, she has shared apartments in cheaper neighborhoods. Now, she finally has her own one-bedroom — though she's about to be kicked out and is struggling to find a studio for less than $1,700 a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacifico still thinks it's worth it to be in New York. But she does dream of greener pastures — \"a new York City with cheaper rent and an easier lifestyle,\" Pacifico says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, Utopia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for other chefs, Utopia doesn't look like New York. It's a smaller, more affordable city with its own vibrant food culture — like Austin, Texas, Madison, Wis., or Chapel Hill, N.C. Those places have the added advantage of being more connected to the farms they buy from — something that is a badge of honor in today's restaurant world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Clark Wolf, a restaurant consultant based in New York and Sonoma County, Calif., puts it: \"I used to say, 'If it grows in Manhattan, scrape it off. Alright?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Levi is a native New Yorker who cooked most recently at a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://www.perrystrestaurant.com/\">Perry Street\u003c/a> in Manhattan's West Village. He has now moved to Portland, Maine, where later this year, he plans to open his own restaurant. His new eatery will forgo kitchen staples such as lemon and even sugar, offering exclusively local foods. To build it will cost him, he says, just one-tenth of what it would in Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Because rent is just so much lower, it just gives you a lot more freedom to not drive yourself completely crazy and take a few more risks,\" Levi says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, chefs like Levi will miss New York — a little. It's why he says he's keeping his New York-cell phone number: \"It's the only part of New York that's affordable.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"New York is famous for its food scene, but lately, the once-overflowing pool of potential chef applicants has begun to run dry. The reason? It's a pricey town to live in, and for chefs obsessed with local ingredients, smaller towns with vibrant food cultures are looking way more appealing.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373401584,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":724},"headData":{"title":"Why There Are Too Few Cooks For New York City's Elite Kitchens | KQED","description":"New York is famous for its food scene, but lately, the once-overflowing pool of potential chef applicants has begun to run dry. The reason? It's a pricey town to live in, and for chefs obsessed with local ingredients, smaller towns with vibrant food cultures are looking way more appealing.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Why There Are Too Few Cooks For New York City's Elite Kitchens ","datePublished":"2013-07-09T20:26:24.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-09T20:26:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"64907 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64907","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/09/why-there-are-too-few-cooks-for-new-york-citys-elite-kitchens/","disqusTitle":"Why There Are Too Few Cooks For New York City's Elite Kitchens ","nprByline":"Jane Black","nprStoryId":"199102553","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=199102553&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/199102553/Too-Few-Cooks-For-New-York-Citys-Elite-Kitchens?ft=3&f=199102553","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 09 Jul 2013 11:17:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 09 Jul 2013 04:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 09 Jul 2013 11:17:32 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/07/20130709_me_10.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=199102553","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1200285723-b0e7b6.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=199102553","path":"/bayareabites/64907/why-there-are-too-few-cooks-for-new-york-citys-elite-kitchens","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/07/20130709_me_10.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=199102553","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64912\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/backfortywest-nyc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/backfortywest-nyc-1024x763.jpg\" alt=\"A view inside the kitchen at chef Peter Hoffman's farm-to-table restaurant, Back Forty West, in New York's Soho neighborhood. Photo: Simon Doggett/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"763\" class=\"size-large wp-image-64912\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view inside the kitchen at chef Peter Hoffman's farm-to-table restaurant, Back Forty West, in New York's Soho neighborhood. Photo: Simon Doggett/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/199102553/Too-Few-Cooks-For-New-York-Citys-Elite-Kitchens\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/07/20130709_me_10.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Jane Black, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/199102553/Too-Few-Cooks-For-New-York-Citys-Elite-Kitchens\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/9/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New York City has long been considered the nation's epicenter for all things culinary. The borough of Manhattan had more than 6,000 restaurants at last count. And the city has the most three-star Michelin-starred restaurants in the country — closing in on Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lately, some cooks have begun to go elsewhere to make names for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the reasons for the culinary exodus: Chefs' obsession with local ingredients is making smaller communities a lot more appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the good old days, which weren't actually all that long ago, it was easy for people like chef Peter Hoffman to hire experienced cooks. Lately, though, the chef shortage has turned his recruiting process into something of an extreme sport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I began to ask myself the questions: 'What is going on?' \" Hoffman says. \"'Where has everybody gone?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoffman used to post an ad on Craig's List for his farm-to-table restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://backfortynyc.com/locations/back-forty-west-soho/\">Back Forty West\u003c/a>, in New York's Soho neighborhood, and then watch the resumes roll in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days? It's either bupkis or a slew of applicants with just a few months of experience — at restaurants like McDonald's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I sat down in certain desperate moments and sent an email to every single cook that I knew,\" he says, \"and said, 'We're looking, we need people.' And what I got back for the most part were, 'Sorry, dude, wish I could help you, I'm in the same boat.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No cooks in Manhattan? Careers in food have never been more fashionable. It feels like you can't turn on the TV without seeing a pack of \"cheftestants\" battling for a chance at stardom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who don't make it, New York is no picnic. The going rate for cooks in Manhattan is $10 an hour — $12 if you are lucky. And the commute to a place you can actually afford to live on that kind of money can be long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shanna Pacifico, the head chef at Back Forty West, has lived in the city for 14 years. Over that time, she has shared apartments in cheaper neighborhoods. Now, she finally has her own one-bedroom — though she's about to be kicked out and is struggling to find a studio for less than $1,700 a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacifico still thinks it's worth it to be in New York. But she does dream of greener pastures — \"a new York City with cheaper rent and an easier lifestyle,\" Pacifico says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, Utopia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for other chefs, Utopia doesn't look like New York. It's a smaller, more affordable city with its own vibrant food culture — like Austin, Texas, Madison, Wis., or Chapel Hill, N.C. Those places have the added advantage of being more connected to the farms they buy from — something that is a badge of honor in today's restaurant world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Clark Wolf, a restaurant consultant based in New York and Sonoma County, Calif., puts it: \"I used to say, 'If it grows in Manhattan, scrape it off. Alright?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Levi is a native New Yorker who cooked most recently at a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://www.perrystrestaurant.com/\">Perry Street\u003c/a> in Manhattan's West Village. He has now moved to Portland, Maine, where later this year, he plans to open his own restaurant. His new eatery will forgo kitchen staples such as lemon and even sugar, offering exclusively local foods. To build it will cost him, he says, just one-tenth of what it would in Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Because rent is just so much lower, it just gives you a lot more freedom to not drive yourself completely crazy and take a few more risks,\" Levi says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, chefs like Levi will miss New York — a little. It's why he says he's keeping his New York-cell phone number: \"It's the only part of New York that's affordable.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64907/why-there-are-too-few-cooks-for-new-york-citys-elite-kitchens","authors":["byline_bayareabites_64907"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_14744","bayareabites_613","bayareabites_11968","bayareabites_11970","bayareabites_1397","bayareabites_11969","bayareabites_72"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64912","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_62191":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_62191","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"62191","score":null,"sort":[1368998016000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york","title":"Giant Renaissance Food People Descend Upon New York","publishDate":1368998016,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart1.jpg\" alt=\"<em>Vertumnus</em>, Arcimboldo's portrait of Emperor Rudolph II. Photo: Wikimedia Commons \" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Vertumnus\u003c/em>, Arcimboldo's portrait of Emperor Rudolph II. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Arcimboldovertemnus.jpeg\">Wikimedia Commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/19/184844448/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/19/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It takes a lot of chutzpah to reduce one of the most powerful men on Earth to a pile of fruits and vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily for art lovers, Giuseppe Arcimboldo had nerve to spare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arcimboldo created this unorthodox produce portrait of Holy Roman Emperor Rudolph II back in 1590. By that time, the Italian artist had been painting for the emperor and his powerful Habsburg family for more than 25 years, so presumably, they'd grown used to his visual jokes. (The emperor has \"peachy\" cheeks and \"ears\" of corn, get it?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though he also dabbled in the angels and saints that were the standard stuff of art in his day, Arcimboldo is best known for his \"scherzi\" or \"capricci\" — \"meaning jokes or games,\" as David Brown, a curator at the National Gallery of Art, explains in \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/multimedia/videos/Arcimboldo-More-Than-Meets-the-Eye.html\">this video\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003cscript src=\"http://player.ooyala.com/player.js?video_pcode=VmM2U6ccX_RqI0rIzEgAxHoRsgRL&width=512&deepLinkEmbedCode=03eDd3MTq7IDOMlsJPcgxoQ25YS10ChJ&height=288&embedCode=03eDd3MTq7IDOMlsJPcgxoQ25YS10ChJ\">\u003c/script>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\"It's very clear that's how they were meant to be seen,\" Brown says. \"They were a source of amusement or entertainment, because there was this element of surprise.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That they also often feature an element of fruits, berries or other foods is partly a reflection of the Renaissance blossoming of natural sciences, like botany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At a distance, they just look like heads in profile or three-quarter view,\" Brown says. \"Up close, they look like an incredible variety of nature's wonders.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That talent for upending the viewer's expectations helps explain why Arcimboldo — whose work, Brown says, fell into \"virtual oblivion\" after his death — found new champions among 20th-century modernists. (Picasso and Salvador Dali were among his fans).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest to pay homage to this Renaissance man is American Philip Haas, an Oscar-nominated filmmaker (for\u003cem> Angels and Insects\u003c/em>) and contemporary artist. This weekend, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybg.org/\">New York Botanical Garden\u003c/a> opened a new exhibit featuring Haas' giant, 15-foot-high fiberglass sculptures based on Arcimboldo's \"Four Seasons\" — winter, spring, summer and fall personified as people, crafted of foods, trees and other natural elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 632px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart2.jpg\" alt=\"Winter, on display in downtown Milan, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Luca Bruno/AP\" width=\"632\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62200\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winter, on display in downtown Milan, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Luca Bruno/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As in the originals, Haas' sculptures contain clues to the foods of the 16th century, when Arcimboldo painted. Winter is a craggy-faced old man, and his \"cravat\" is made of oranges and lemons — imported from the warmer south, they were one of the few fruits that could be seen in Renaissance Italy during the colder months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 716px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart3-716x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Summer. Photo: Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\" width=\"716\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-62201\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Summer. Photo: Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Summer's bounty — in the shape of a young man, naturally — includes eggplant in his skull and corn ears, two crops introduced to Europe from Asia and the New World.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart5-677x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Autumn. Photo: AP/Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\" width=\"677\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-62203\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autumn. Photo: AP/Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A fall-ripening gourd caps Autumn's head. Figs dangle from his ears. The grapes that tumble from his head like hair and fill his wooden barrel chest both nod to Italy's fall wine-making season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Arcimboldo, Haas says he was attracted by the idea of playing with context and viewer's expectations. \"Arcimboldo was making a painting from the natural world, and then he turned it into a painting and [others] stuck it in a museum,\" Haas tells The Salt. \"I took it out of the museum and put it back into the natural world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sculptures have been on a tour of Europe and the U.S., where they were most recently on display at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.dbg.org/events-exhibitions/philip-haas-the-four-seasons\">Desert Botanical Garden\u003c/a> in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By transforming Arcimboldo's seasons into colossal 3-D sculptures, Haas says he aims to change how the viewer experiences not just the art but the natural world that surrounds them, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Summer's head has a cucumber for a nose,\" he notes. \"When that head was in Phoenix, suddenly it looks like a cactus. The works are quite elastic — they respond to the environment.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Giuseppe Arcimboldo was a 16th-century artist who liked to play with his food, transforming it into the building blocks of many of his fantastical portraits. Artist Philip Haas has taken those portraits out of museums, reinterpreting them as colossal statues that interact with the natural environment.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368998016,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":666},"headData":{"title":"Giant Renaissance Food People Descend Upon New York | KQED","description":"Giuseppe Arcimboldo was a 16th-century artist who liked to play with his food, transforming it into the building blocks of many of his fantastical portraits. Artist Philip Haas has taken those portraits out of museums, reinterpreting them as colossal statues that interact with the natural environment.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Giant Renaissance Food People Descend Upon New York","datePublished":"2013-05-19T21:13:36.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-19T21:13:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"62191 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=62191","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/19/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york/","disqusTitle":"Giant Renaissance Food People Descend Upon New York","nprByline":"Maria Godoy","nprStoryId":"184844448","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=184844448&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/19/184844448/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york?ft=3&f=184844448","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 19 May 2013 11:46:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 19 May 2013 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 19 May 2013 11:46:25 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/62191/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart1.jpg\" alt=\"<em>Vertumnus</em>, Arcimboldo's portrait of Emperor Rudolph II. Photo: Wikimedia Commons \" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Vertumnus\u003c/em>, Arcimboldo's portrait of Emperor Rudolph II. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Arcimboldovertemnus.jpeg\">Wikimedia Commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/19/184844448/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/19/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It takes a lot of chutzpah to reduce one of the most powerful men on Earth to a pile of fruits and vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily for art lovers, Giuseppe Arcimboldo had nerve to spare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arcimboldo created this unorthodox produce portrait of Holy Roman Emperor Rudolph II back in 1590. By that time, the Italian artist had been painting for the emperor and his powerful Habsburg family for more than 25 years, so presumably, they'd grown used to his visual jokes. (The emperor has \"peachy\" cheeks and \"ears\" of corn, get it?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though he also dabbled in the angels and saints that were the standard stuff of art in his day, Arcimboldo is best known for his \"scherzi\" or \"capricci\" — \"meaning jokes or games,\" as David Brown, a curator at the National Gallery of Art, explains in \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/multimedia/videos/Arcimboldo-More-Than-Meets-the-Eye.html\">this video\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003cscript src=\"http://player.ooyala.com/player.js?video_pcode=VmM2U6ccX_RqI0rIzEgAxHoRsgRL&width=512&deepLinkEmbedCode=03eDd3MTq7IDOMlsJPcgxoQ25YS10ChJ&height=288&embedCode=03eDd3MTq7IDOMlsJPcgxoQ25YS10ChJ\">\u003c/script>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\"It's very clear that's how they were meant to be seen,\" Brown says. \"They were a source of amusement or entertainment, because there was this element of surprise.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That they also often feature an element of fruits, berries or other foods is partly a reflection of the Renaissance blossoming of natural sciences, like botany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At a distance, they just look like heads in profile or three-quarter view,\" Brown says. \"Up close, they look like an incredible variety of nature's wonders.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That talent for upending the viewer's expectations helps explain why Arcimboldo — whose work, Brown says, fell into \"virtual oblivion\" after his death — found new champions among 20th-century modernists. (Picasso and Salvador Dali were among his fans).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest to pay homage to this Renaissance man is American Philip Haas, an Oscar-nominated filmmaker (for\u003cem> Angels and Insects\u003c/em>) and contemporary artist. This weekend, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybg.org/\">New York Botanical Garden\u003c/a> opened a new exhibit featuring Haas' giant, 15-foot-high fiberglass sculptures based on Arcimboldo's \"Four Seasons\" — winter, spring, summer and fall personified as people, crafted of foods, trees and other natural elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 632px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart2.jpg\" alt=\"Winter, on display in downtown Milan, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Luca Bruno/AP\" width=\"632\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62200\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winter, on display in downtown Milan, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Luca Bruno/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As in the originals, Haas' sculptures contain clues to the foods of the 16th century, when Arcimboldo painted. Winter is a craggy-faced old man, and his \"cravat\" is made of oranges and lemons — imported from the warmer south, they were one of the few fruits that could be seen in Renaissance Italy during the colder months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 716px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart3-716x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Summer. Photo: Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\" width=\"716\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-62201\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Summer. Photo: Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Summer's bounty — in the shape of a young man, naturally — includes eggplant in his skull and corn ears, two crops introduced to Europe from Asia and the New World.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62203\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 677px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/foodart5-677x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Autumn. Photo: AP/Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\" width=\"677\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-62203\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autumn. Photo: AP/Courtesy New York Botanical Garden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A fall-ripening gourd caps Autumn's head. Figs dangle from his ears. The grapes that tumble from his head like hair and fill his wooden barrel chest both nod to Italy's fall wine-making season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Arcimboldo, Haas says he was attracted by the idea of playing with context and viewer's expectations. \"Arcimboldo was making a painting from the natural world, and then he turned it into a painting and [others] stuck it in a museum,\" Haas tells The Salt. \"I took it out of the museum and put it back into the natural world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sculptures have been on a tour of Europe and the U.S., where they were most recently on display at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.dbg.org/events-exhibitions/philip-haas-the-four-seasons\">Desert Botanical Garden\u003c/a> in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By transforming Arcimboldo's seasons into colossal 3-D sculptures, Haas says he aims to change how the viewer experiences not just the art but the natural world that surrounds them, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Summer's head has a cucumber for a nose,\" he notes. \"When that head was in Phoenix, suddenly it looks like a cactus. The works are quite elastic — they respond to the environment.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/62191/giant-renaissance-food-people-descend-upon-new-york","authors":["byline_bayareabites_62191"],"categories":["bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14780","bayareabites_11734","bayareabites_11735","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_11736","bayareabites_10921"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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