Korean, Swedish and Persian Dishes for Winter Solstice
From Candy To Juleps, Persians Left Imprint On Many Edible Delights
'Eating On The Wild Side:' A Field Guide To Nutritious Food
Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal
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Lee/Birgitta Holma Durell/Azita Mehran","altTag":"Winter Solstice traditions around the world include (L–R) patjuk bean soup, lussekatt buns and ash soup.","description":"Winter Solstice traditions around the world include (L–R) patjuk bean soup, lussekatt buns and ash soup.\n","imgSizes":{"medium":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-800x450.jpg","width":800,"height":450,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-1020x574.jpg","width":1020,"height":574,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-160x90.jpg","width":160,"height":90,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"medium_large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-768x432.jpg","width":768,"height":432,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"1536x1536":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-1536x864.jpg","width":1536,"height":864,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-672x372.jpg","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_-1038x576.jpg","width":1038,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Solstice.MAIN_.jpg","width":1920,"height":1080}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_106372":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_106372","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"106372","found":true},"title":"Persian men kneel on the floor to enjoy breakfast in an illustration by James Morier, published in 1818. Because of Iran's strategic position on the ancient Silk Road, Persian culture was disseminated far and wide. There's no better evidence of this than the imprimatur of the Persian language on the nomenclature of food.","publishDate":1454004753,"status":"inherit","parent":106371,"modified":1454005068,"caption":"Persian men kneel on the floor to enjoy breakfast in an illustration by James Morier, published in 1818. Because of Iran's strategic position on the ancient Silk Road, Persian culture was disseminated far and wide. There's no better evidence of this than the imprimatur of the Persian language on the nomenclature of food.","credit":"Henry Guttmann/Getty Images","description":"Persian men kneel on the floor to enjoy breakfast in an illustration by James Morier, published in 1818. Because of Iran's strategic position on the ancient Silk Road, Persian culture was disseminated far and wide. 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Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science","credit":null,"description":"An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran.","imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg","width":1120,"height":1142}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_bayareabites_106371":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_106371","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_106371","name":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a> ","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_64674":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_64674","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_64674","name":"Rhitu Chatterjee","isLoading":false},"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"},"nprfood":{"type":"authors","id":"5403","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5403","found":true},"name":"NPR Food","firstName":"NPR Food","lastName":null,"slug":"nprfood","email":"nprfood@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Food and Health-related stories from NPR including NPR Radio; NPR's food blog, \"The Salt\"; NPR's Health News blog, \"Shots\"; NPR's Breaking News blog \"The Two-Way\"; NPR's global stories blog \"Goats and Soda,\" NPR's economy explainer \"Planet Money\"; food-related technology news from NPR's \"All Tech Considered\"; and food series \"Kitchen Window.\"","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"nprfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"NPR Food | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/nprfood"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139639":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139639","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139639","score":null,"sort":[1607388701000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"korean-swedish-and-persian-dishes-for-winter-solstice","title":"Korean, Swedish and Persian Dishes for Winter Solstice","publishDate":1607388701,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Winter Solstice festivities to celebrate the longest night of the year are an ancient ritual that can be traced back to the Stone Age. The auspicious day falls between the 20–23 of December (or June, in the Southern Hemisphere). Cultures including the Ancient Romans, the Incas and the Hopi Indians have employed dancing and fires to chase away any malevolent spirits lurking around during the long, cold dark night—and special foods are an essential element of every revelry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are three different traditions, complete with recipes, celebrated around the world during the Winter Solstice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Jump to:\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#patjuk\">Patjuk, from Korea\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#lussekatt\">Lussekatt Buns, from Sweden\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#ash\">Ash Reshteh, from Iran\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg.jpg\" alt=\"Patjuk.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139649\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Patjuk. \u003ccite>(Selina S. Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"patjuk\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Patjuk\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dongji (Korean Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deep red hue of the Korean bean soup, patjuk, that is eaten on Dongji (the winter solstice) is believed to have the power to ward off evil spirits and, traditionally, was sprinkled around the house to chase them away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having grown up in Seoul, \u003ca href=\"https://selinaslee.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Selina S. Lee\u003c/a>, an Oakland restaurant consultant for new Korean restaurants, doesn’t remember her mother making a big deal out of Dongji, but she always made patjuk. Lee contrasts life in modern Seoul to the surrounding villages, where she suspects that Dongji is celebrated more widely, especially among the older generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom made the red bean soup every year,” says Lee, “but I had no idea it was for the winter solstice. She didn’t tell me we are eating it for the beginning of winter. Now I know. I don’t really celebrate Dongji, but I want my kids to know it.” Lee now has two boys, age 14 and 12, and makes patjuk every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have figured out an easier way,” says the recipe developer, “because the traditional method takes a lot of time. First you have to wash, soak the beans, make sure there are no bad ones, then you are supposed to boil them several times and strain it by hand so that all the skin gets separated. I love that kind of cooking, slow rather than fast and easy. But a couple of years ago, looking online for different recipes, I found that people were just blending the beans in the food processor and eating the skin as well. There was something nutritional about the skin. Actually, it turns out smoother and silkier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My kids aren’t the biggest fans,” Lee admits, “but it reminds me when I was little, and my mother gave me patjuk with just some salt and I didn’t like it much. Then I realized you could make it with sugar, more like a dessert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides red beans, an essential ingredient of patjuk are little rice balls, which symbolize birds’ eggs and new life. “You are supposed to eat the number of rice balls that equals your age. But you really can’t after you reach a certain age,” says Lee, laughing. “You can’t eat 40 rice balls.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adds Lee: “I would love to make this into my own tradition now and share stories with my followers, especially Korean-Americans, if they were born here, I’m sure they have had no exposure to it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/NxyJ_xk4BXI\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Bean Porridge (동지팥죽, Dongji Patjuk)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMakes 4-6 servings\u003cbr>\nBy Selina S. Lee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups red beans (a.k.a. azuki beans)\u003cbr>\n½ cup sweet rice flour (a.k.a. mochiko rice flour)\u003cbr>\nPine nuts - optional\u003cbr>\nSugar\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\nWater\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tWash your beans in cold water and soak them for about 30 minutes. You can pick out broken beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tIn a large pot, add clean beans to 3 cups of water and bring it to a boil on medium-high heat. Drain the water out after the first boil, and put the beans back in the pot with 4 cups of new water. Boil on medium-low heat for 1 hour with the lid on. Stir the beans a few times to make sure they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Lower the heat if necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tWhile the beans are cooking, you can make your sweet rice balls (called ‘sae al shim’) by making a dough with ½ cup sweet rice flour, 2 tsp sugar, ¼ tsp salt and ¼ cup of hot boiling water. Add the hot water a little bit at a time and mix and fold/knead gently with your fingers (when it’s not piping hot!) into a long 1-inch-thick dough log. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it sit for at least 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tRoll out your dough with your hand until it becomes 8-10 inches long, then cut it evenly into pieces to mold into small round balls using the palm of your hand. I like to keep them at about ½ inch size. Cover your rice balls so they don’t get dried out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAfter about 1 hour of boiling, the beans should be soft and mashable. Drain, wait until they cool down a little, then add the beans to the blender with about ¼ cup of water until it’s a smooth, silky texture. I do this in 2 batches. You can add more water if needed. It will be a little grainy at first because of the skin, but will smooth out when you cook it. You can store this mixture in your freezer for later use. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd blended red beans and sweet rice balls to your pot and bring them to a boil by adding a little bit more water (about ¼ cup), sugar (1 tsp) and salt (pinch). Keep stirring for about 10-15 minutes until achieving desired consistency. I like mine a little bit more runny than a thick porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tServe with some pine nuts, salt or sugar on the side. I prefer to eat it with salt first, then eat a second bowl with some sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns.jpg\" alt=\"Lussekatt buns.\" width=\"800\" height=\"435\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139651\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns-160x87.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns-768x418.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lussekatt buns. \u003ccite>(Birgitta Holma Durell)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"lussekatt\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lussekatt Buns\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>St. Lucia’s Day (Swedish Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of soup, Swedes hunger for warm, saffron-scented buns on the cold, dark morning of St. Lucia’s Day. The Swedish holiday features a procession of singing children dressed in white gowns, led by the appointed “St. Lucia,” who wears a crown of lit candles (or nowadays, a safer battery-powered version).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley resident Birgitta Holma Durell, who grew up in a small city in Southern Sweden, remembers the ritual fondly. “My sister and brother and I would get up early in the morning. My mother had already baked the Lucia rolls, which we warmed up in the oven. Then we made coffee for my parents. We would put on our white gowns, and my brother would wear the cone shaped hat with stars on it. Because I had blond hair, I got to wear the crown and we walked upstairs to my parents’ bedroom, singing the Lucia songs and bringing them coffee and Lucia rolls. I liked that we kids did something for our parents.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The co-founder of Berkeley-based \u003ca href=\"https://www.cultcrackers.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Cult Crackers\u003c/a> (which are inspired by Swedish crispbread) explains that after the morning ritual, another procession commenced at school, and often one at church. The choir would sing away the gloom and darkness and hasten rosy skies. “One girl was picked to be Lucia with candles on her head and a red band around her waist,” says Durell. “The rest of us would have glitter in our hair and around our waist. Then everybody would eat Lucia rolls and gingerbread cookies with tea or cocoa.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell.jpg\" alt=\"Little girls celebrate St. Lucia's Day.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139648\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Little girls celebrate St. Lucia's Day. \u003ccite>(Birgitta Holma Durrell)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although St. Lucia’s Day celebrates the return of the light, Swedes celebrate it on Dec. 13 (not the 21st) because when Sweden followed the old Julian calendar, that was the date of the winter solstice. In the early 18th century, the country switched to the Gregorian calendar, but kept their traditional celebration on the 13th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Santa Lucia was a Sicilian saint. Her name means “carrier of light.” Legend has it that Lucia secretly brought food to persecuted Christians who hid in catacombs beneath Rome. She wore candles on her head in order to keep her hands free to carry more food. She died a martyr in 304, and her Saint day is Dec. 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The traditional Swedish rolls, called Lussekatt (Lucia cat), are only eaten in December. Their curled-up shape represents a sleeping cat (an animal believed to be the devil in disguise). To keep the devil away, the sweet buns are colored a cheery yellow with the precious spice saffron, and adorned with two raisins to represent the cat’s eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lussekatt (Lucia’s cat) Buns\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy Birgitta Holma Durell\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons dry active yeast\u003cbr>\n¾ cup butter\u003cbr>\n2 cups of milk\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon saffron threads\u003cbr>\n½ cup natural cane sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n6½ cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 egg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To finish:\u003cbr>\n1 egg, beaten\u003cbr>\n¼ cup of raisins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPut the saffron threads in a mortar with a spoonful of the sugar, and crush the saffron with the sugar.\u003cbr>\n· \tMelt the butter in a saucepan and add the saffron/sugar mixture.\u003cbr>\n· \tAdd the milk to the butter and saffron/sugar. Heat until about 110° F.\u003cbr>\n· \tIn a small bowl, dissolve the yeast in 4 tbsps of the warm milk mixture and set aside for a few minutes until small bubbles form.\u003cbr>\n· \tIn a large bowl, whisk 1 egg and blend in the rest of the sugar, the salt, and then the saffron/milk mixture. Stir until well blended.\u003cbr>\n· \tSlowly add the flour to the liquid. Mix with a wooden spoon until you can make a ball out of the dough.\u003cbr>\n· \tKnead the dough until smooth. If the dough sticks to your fingers and bowl, add a little more flour.\u003cbr>\n· \tCover the bowl with a tea towel and place it in a warm and draft-free place until doubled in size (about 1 hour).\u003cbr>\n· \tLine baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk an egg for the wash.\u003cbr>\n· \tRemove the dough from the bowl and knead it a little more.\u003cbr>\n· \tCut the dough into 35 equally sized pieces. Roll them into balls, and then into snake shapes.\u003cbr>\n· \tCurl the top of the snake one direction and the bottom in the other direction (so it resembles the letter “S”).\u003cbr>\n· \tAfter your 35 “lussekatter” are rolled up and put onto sheet pans, cover them with a tea towel and put them back in the same warm spot. Let them rise another 40 minutes.\u003cbr>\n· \tMeanwhile, preheat the oven to 400° F.\u003cbr>\n· \tBrush the rolls with the egg, and add two raisin eyes to each “lussekatter,” one in the center of each spiral\u003cbr>\n· \tBake for 15-20 minutes until golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran.jpg\" alt=\"Ash Reshteh.\" width=\"800\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran-768x766.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ash Reshteh. \u003ccite>(Azita Mehran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"ash\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ash Reshteh\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yalda Night (Persian Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A hearty soup is also common fare for Yalda Night, an ancient Zoroastrian celebration of the winter solstice, observed in Iran and the Persian diaspora. But the essential elements of Yalda are watermelons (traditionally saved from the summer in cellars) and pomegranates. These are traditionally set, along with dried fruit, nuts and candles, on a low table with a heater underneath, where the family gathers round. To protect against evil forces on the longest night, guests keep the festive mood going until past midnight, drinking wine, telling stories and reading poetry. The red colors of the fruit symbolize the crimson dawn and life; the word “yalda” means “birth” or “rebirth.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yalda Modabber is the co-founder and executive director of \u003ca href=\"https://golestankids.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Golestan\u003c/a>, the first Persian language immersion school in the United States, located in El Cerrito. She happens to share her name with the holiday. “It was unusual when my parents named me, like calling your kid Easter. But now it’s become more popular as a name.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139646\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon and pomegranate.\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139646\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School-768x515.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon and pomegranate. \u003ccite>(Golestan School)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I didn’t celebrate Yalda as a child, because it was past my bedtime,” says Modabber. “But, at Golestan, this has traditionally been our biggest event of the year, when we recognize Yalda and all the holidays celebrating light that are rooted in the solstice. That month, the children make lanterns and learn about the ways different cultures celebrate their festivals of light. One evening we have a big bonfire with hundreds of people gathering outside, where we all stand around the fire and sing songs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, because of the pandemic, the school families will not be able to gather as a community, but the classroom teachers will continue the tradition of having each child peel their own pomegranate. At Golestan, food is recognized as an important vehicle of culture, and the school chef always makes Ash (pronounced “osh”), a thick, hearty soup that includes a medley of beans, lots of herbs, turmeric, onions and special noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ash Reshteh - Bean and Noodle Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003cbr>\nBy \u003ca href=\"https://turmericsaffron.blogspot.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Azita Mehran\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup red kidney beans, soaked overnight, drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup lentils\u003cbr>\n1 bunch parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch cilantro, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch spinach, fresh, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch scallion or chives, chopped\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003cbr>\n6 ounces dried noodles for ash; you may find reshteh (noodles) in Persian/Iranian grocery stores.\u003cbr>\nWater\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Garnish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large onion, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n5 cloves of garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dried mint\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil or olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 cup kashk (liquid whey)\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons liquid saffron, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPlace the chickpeas, beans and lentils in a large pot with 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for 1 1/2–2 hours or until beans are tender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the chopped vegetables, noodles, salt and pepper. Stir well, cover and cook for another 30-40 minutes on medium-low heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd more water if needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tIn medium pan, heat 3-4 tbsps olive oil over medium-high heat. Add sliced onions and cook until golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the garlic and sauté for another 3-5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the turmeric powder, stir well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the dried mint and sauté for 2-3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPour the soup in a large serving bowl, top with fried onion, garlic and mint mixture, drizzle with liquid saffron and a generous amount of liquid kash. Serve hot with warm bread and extra kashk on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Festivities for longest night of the year are an ancient ritual—and special foods are an essential element.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621555223,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":57,"wordCount":2497},"headData":{"title":"Korean, Swedish and Persian Dishes for Winter Solstice | KQED","description":"Festivities for longest night of the year are an ancient ritual—and special foods are an essential element.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139639 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139639","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/12/07/korean-swedish-and-persian-dishes-for-winter-solstice/","disqusTitle":"Korean, Swedish and Persian Dishes for Winter Solstice","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139639/korean-swedish-and-persian-dishes-for-winter-solstice","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Winter Solstice festivities to celebrate the longest night of the year are an ancient ritual that can be traced back to the Stone Age. The auspicious day falls between the 20–23 of December (or June, in the Southern Hemisphere). Cultures including the Ancient Romans, the Incas and the Hopi Indians have employed dancing and fires to chase away any malevolent spirits lurking around during the long, cold dark night—and special foods are an essential element of every revelry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are three different traditions, complete with recipes, celebrated around the world during the Winter Solstice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Jump to:\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#patjuk\">Patjuk, from Korea\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#lussekatt\">Lussekatt Buns, from Sweden\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#ash\">Ash Reshteh, from Iran\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg.jpg\" alt=\"Patjuk.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139649\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/2.-Red_Bean_Porridge-photo-credit-Selina-S.-Lee.-jpg-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Patjuk. \u003ccite>(Selina S. Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"patjuk\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Patjuk\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dongji (Korean Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deep red hue of the Korean bean soup, patjuk, that is eaten on Dongji (the winter solstice) is believed to have the power to ward off evil spirits and, traditionally, was sprinkled around the house to chase them away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having grown up in Seoul, \u003ca href=\"https://selinaslee.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Selina S. Lee\u003c/a>, an Oakland restaurant consultant for new Korean restaurants, doesn’t remember her mother making a big deal out of Dongji, but she always made patjuk. Lee contrasts life in modern Seoul to the surrounding villages, where she suspects that Dongji is celebrated more widely, especially among the older generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom made the red bean soup every year,” says Lee, “but I had no idea it was for the winter solstice. She didn’t tell me we are eating it for the beginning of winter. Now I know. I don’t really celebrate Dongji, but I want my kids to know it.” Lee now has two boys, age 14 and 12, and makes patjuk every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have figured out an easier way,” says the recipe developer, “because the traditional method takes a lot of time. First you have to wash, soak the beans, make sure there are no bad ones, then you are supposed to boil them several times and strain it by hand so that all the skin gets separated. I love that kind of cooking, slow rather than fast and easy. But a couple of years ago, looking online for different recipes, I found that people were just blending the beans in the food processor and eating the skin as well. There was something nutritional about the skin. Actually, it turns out smoother and silkier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My kids aren’t the biggest fans,” Lee admits, “but it reminds me when I was little, and my mother gave me patjuk with just some salt and I didn’t like it much. Then I realized you could make it with sugar, more like a dessert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides red beans, an essential ingredient of patjuk are little rice balls, which symbolize birds’ eggs and new life. “You are supposed to eat the number of rice balls that equals your age. But you really can’t after you reach a certain age,” says Lee, laughing. “You can’t eat 40 rice balls.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adds Lee: “I would love to make this into my own tradition now and share stories with my followers, especially Korean-Americans, if they were born here, I’m sure they have had no exposure to it.”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/NxyJ_xk4BXI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/NxyJ_xk4BXI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Bean Porridge (동지팥죽, Dongji Patjuk)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMakes 4-6 servings\u003cbr>\nBy Selina S. Lee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups red beans (a.k.a. azuki beans)\u003cbr>\n½ cup sweet rice flour (a.k.a. mochiko rice flour)\u003cbr>\nPine nuts - optional\u003cbr>\nSugar\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\nWater\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tWash your beans in cold water and soak them for about 30 minutes. You can pick out broken beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tIn a large pot, add clean beans to 3 cups of water and bring it to a boil on medium-high heat. Drain the water out after the first boil, and put the beans back in the pot with 4 cups of new water. Boil on medium-low heat for 1 hour with the lid on. Stir the beans a few times to make sure they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Lower the heat if necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tWhile the beans are cooking, you can make your sweet rice balls (called ‘sae al shim’) by making a dough with ½ cup sweet rice flour, 2 tsp sugar, ¼ tsp salt and ¼ cup of hot boiling water. Add the hot water a little bit at a time and mix and fold/knead gently with your fingers (when it’s not piping hot!) into a long 1-inch-thick dough log. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it sit for at least 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tRoll out your dough with your hand until it becomes 8-10 inches long, then cut it evenly into pieces to mold into small round balls using the palm of your hand. I like to keep them at about ½ inch size. Cover your rice balls so they don’t get dried out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAfter about 1 hour of boiling, the beans should be soft and mashable. Drain, wait until they cool down a little, then add the beans to the blender with about ¼ cup of water until it’s a smooth, silky texture. I do this in 2 batches. You can add more water if needed. It will be a little grainy at first because of the skin, but will smooth out when you cook it. You can store this mixture in your freezer for later use. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd blended red beans and sweet rice balls to your pot and bring them to a boil by adding a little bit more water (about ¼ cup), sugar (1 tsp) and salt (pinch). Keep stirring for about 10-15 minutes until achieving desired consistency. I like mine a little bit more runny than a thick porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tServe with some pine nuts, salt or sugar on the side. I prefer to eat it with salt first, then eat a second bowl with some sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns.jpg\" alt=\"Lussekatt buns.\" width=\"800\" height=\"435\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139651\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns-160x87.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/buns-768x418.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lussekatt buns. \u003ccite>(Birgitta Holma Durell)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"lussekatt\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lussekatt Buns\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>St. Lucia’s Day (Swedish Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of soup, Swedes hunger for warm, saffron-scented buns on the cold, dark morning of St. Lucia’s Day. The Swedish holiday features a procession of singing children dressed in white gowns, led by the appointed “St. Lucia,” who wears a crown of lit candles (or nowadays, a safer battery-powered version).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley resident Birgitta Holma Durell, who grew up in a small city in Southern Sweden, remembers the ritual fondly. “My sister and brother and I would get up early in the morning. My mother had already baked the Lucia rolls, which we warmed up in the oven. Then we made coffee for my parents. We would put on our white gowns, and my brother would wear the cone shaped hat with stars on it. Because I had blond hair, I got to wear the crown and we walked upstairs to my parents’ bedroom, singing the Lucia songs and bringing them coffee and Lucia rolls. I liked that we kids did something for our parents.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The co-founder of Berkeley-based \u003ca href=\"https://www.cultcrackers.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Cult Crackers\u003c/a> (which are inspired by Swedish crispbread) explains that after the morning ritual, another procession commenced at school, and often one at church. The choir would sing away the gloom and darkness and hasten rosy skies. “One girl was picked to be Lucia with candles on her head and a red band around her waist,” says Durell. “The rest of us would have glitter in our hair and around our waist. Then everybody would eat Lucia rolls and gingerbread cookies with tea or cocoa.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139648\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell.jpg\" alt=\"Little girls celebrate St. Lucia's Day.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139648\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/5.-Little-girls-celebrate-St.-Lucia_s-day-photo-credit-Birgitta-Holma-Durrell-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Little girls celebrate St. Lucia's Day. \u003ccite>(Birgitta Holma Durrell)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although St. Lucia’s Day celebrates the return of the light, Swedes celebrate it on Dec. 13 (not the 21st) because when Sweden followed the old Julian calendar, that was the date of the winter solstice. In the early 18th century, the country switched to the Gregorian calendar, but kept their traditional celebration on the 13th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Santa Lucia was a Sicilian saint. Her name means “carrier of light.” Legend has it that Lucia secretly brought food to persecuted Christians who hid in catacombs beneath Rome. She wore candles on her head in order to keep her hands free to carry more food. She died a martyr in 304, and her Saint day is Dec. 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The traditional Swedish rolls, called Lussekatt (Lucia cat), are only eaten in December. Their curled-up shape represents a sleeping cat (an animal believed to be the devil in disguise). To keep the devil away, the sweet buns are colored a cheery yellow with the precious spice saffron, and adorned with two raisins to represent the cat’s eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lussekatt (Lucia’s cat) Buns\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy Birgitta Holma Durell\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons dry active yeast\u003cbr>\n¾ cup butter\u003cbr>\n2 cups of milk\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon saffron threads\u003cbr>\n½ cup natural cane sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n6½ cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 egg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To finish:\u003cbr>\n1 egg, beaten\u003cbr>\n¼ cup of raisins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPut the saffron threads in a mortar with a spoonful of the sugar, and crush the saffron with the sugar.\u003cbr>\n· \tMelt the butter in a saucepan and add the saffron/sugar mixture.\u003cbr>\n· \tAdd the milk to the butter and saffron/sugar. Heat until about 110° F.\u003cbr>\n· \tIn a small bowl, dissolve the yeast in 4 tbsps of the warm milk mixture and set aside for a few minutes until small bubbles form.\u003cbr>\n· \tIn a large bowl, whisk 1 egg and blend in the rest of the sugar, the salt, and then the saffron/milk mixture. Stir until well blended.\u003cbr>\n· \tSlowly add the flour to the liquid. Mix with a wooden spoon until you can make a ball out of the dough.\u003cbr>\n· \tKnead the dough until smooth. If the dough sticks to your fingers and bowl, add a little more flour.\u003cbr>\n· \tCover the bowl with a tea towel and place it in a warm and draft-free place until doubled in size (about 1 hour).\u003cbr>\n· \tLine baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk an egg for the wash.\u003cbr>\n· \tRemove the dough from the bowl and knead it a little more.\u003cbr>\n· \tCut the dough into 35 equally sized pieces. Roll them into balls, and then into snake shapes.\u003cbr>\n· \tCurl the top of the snake one direction and the bottom in the other direction (so it resembles the letter “S”).\u003cbr>\n· \tAfter your 35 “lussekatter” are rolled up and put onto sheet pans, cover them with a tea towel and put them back in the same warm spot. Let them rise another 40 minutes.\u003cbr>\n· \tMeanwhile, preheat the oven to 400° F.\u003cbr>\n· \tBrush the rolls with the egg, and add two raisin eyes to each “lussekatter,” one in the center of each spiral\u003cbr>\n· \tBake for 15-20 minutes until golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran.jpg\" alt=\"Ash Reshteh.\" width=\"800\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/7.-Ash-Reshteh-photo-credit-Azita-Mehran-768x766.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ash Reshteh. \u003ccite>(Azita Mehran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca id=\"ash\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ash Reshteh\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yalda Night (Persian Culture)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A hearty soup is also common fare for Yalda Night, an ancient Zoroastrian celebration of the winter solstice, observed in Iran and the Persian diaspora. But the essential elements of Yalda are watermelons (traditionally saved from the summer in cellars) and pomegranates. These are traditionally set, along with dried fruit, nuts and candles, on a low table with a heater underneath, where the family gathers round. To protect against evil forces on the longest night, guests keep the festive mood going until past midnight, drinking wine, telling stories and reading poetry. The red colors of the fruit symbolize the crimson dawn and life; the word “yalda” means “birth” or “rebirth.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yalda Modabber is the co-founder and executive director of \u003ca href=\"https://golestankids.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Golestan\u003c/a>, the first Persian language immersion school in the United States, located in El Cerrito. She happens to share her name with the holiday. “It was unusual when my parents named me, like calling your kid Easter. But now it’s become more popular as a name.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139646\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon and pomegranate.\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139646\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/6.-watermelon-and-pomegranate-credit-Golestan-School-768x515.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon and pomegranate. \u003ccite>(Golestan School)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I didn’t celebrate Yalda as a child, because it was past my bedtime,” says Modabber. “But, at Golestan, this has traditionally been our biggest event of the year, when we recognize Yalda and all the holidays celebrating light that are rooted in the solstice. That month, the children make lanterns and learn about the ways different cultures celebrate their festivals of light. One evening we have a big bonfire with hundreds of people gathering outside, where we all stand around the fire and sing songs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, because of the pandemic, the school families will not be able to gather as a community, but the classroom teachers will continue the tradition of having each child peel their own pomegranate. At Golestan, food is recognized as an important vehicle of culture, and the school chef always makes Ash (pronounced “osh”), a thick, hearty soup that includes a medley of beans, lots of herbs, turmeric, onions and special noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ash Reshteh - Bean and Noodle Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003cbr>\nBy \u003ca href=\"https://turmericsaffron.blogspot.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Azita Mehran\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup red kidney beans, soaked overnight, drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup lentils\u003cbr>\n1 bunch parsley, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch cilantro, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch spinach, fresh, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 bunch scallion or chives, chopped\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003cbr>\n6 ounces dried noodles for ash; you may find reshteh (noodles) in Persian/Iranian grocery stores.\u003cbr>\nWater\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Garnish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large onion, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n5 cloves of garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dried mint\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon turmeric\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil or olive oil\u003cbr>\n1 cup kashk (liquid whey)\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons liquid saffron, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPlace the chickpeas, beans and lentils in a large pot with 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for 1 1/2–2 hours or until beans are tender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the chopped vegetables, noodles, salt and pepper. Stir well, cover and cook for another 30-40 minutes on medium-low heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd more water if needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tIn medium pan, heat 3-4 tbsps olive oil over medium-high heat. Add sliced onions and cook until golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the garlic and sauté for another 3-5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the turmeric powder, stir well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tAdd the dried mint and sauté for 2-3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>· \tPour the soup in a large serving bowl, top with fried onion, garlic and mint mixture, drizzle with liquid saffron and a generous amount of liquid kash. Serve hot with warm bread and extra kashk on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139639/korean-swedish-and-persian-dishes-for-winter-solstice","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_16818","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_16837"],"tags":["bayareabites_17057","bayareabites_17059","bayareabites_11945","bayareabites_15574","bayareabites_17056","bayareabites_17055","bayareabites_16742","bayareabites_17053","bayareabites_439","bayareabites_17058","bayareabites_17054"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139644","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_106371":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_106371","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"106371","score":null,"sort":[1454005502000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"from-candy-to-juleps-persians-left-imprint-on-many-edible-delights","title":"From Candy To Juleps, Persians Left Imprint On Many Edible Delights","publishDate":1454005502,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>With the historic nuclear deal finally taking effect, a sanctions-free Iran can now get back to doing what it has excelled at for centuries: trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of Iran's strategic position on the Silk Road, that ancient highway that snaked from China to Europe, the caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through it also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past decade, the rhetoric around Iran has been so dominated by the enrichment of uranium that it has all but eclipsed the numerous ways in which Persia — the name Iran was known by before 1935 — has enriched the world and been enriched by it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no better evidence of this than the imprimatur of Persian on the nomenclature of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not just food with an obviously Eastern pedigree, like saffron, naan, tandoori chicken, samosa, kebab and pilaf, but everyday, Western-sounding food names such as lemon, tamarind, pistachio and jujube — all names with Persian roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fascinating though these etymologies are, they lie buried deep inside dictionaries. One woman who has worked hard to unearth them is the chef and cookbook writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.najmieh.com/\">Najmieh Batmanglij\u003c/a>, known as the Julia Child of Persian cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The reason I wrote five cookbooks over the past 35 years was to bring about awareness among Americans and make second-generation Iranian-Americans proud of their ancient heritage,\" Batmanglij tells us. She grew up in Tehran but has lived in Washington for the past three decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Persian kings had royal kitchens with butlers, sommeliers and pastry chefs,\" she says. \"Iran was the first home of many commonly used herbs, from basil to cilantro, and to scores of familiar preparations, including sweet and sour sauces and almond pastries. We know that quinces, pomegranates, almonds, fenugreek (despite its name), cumin, coriander and mustard seeds went from Iran to the West. I want to tell my readers — you know more about Persian food than you might think.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Batmanglij's assertion is validated by this quick question: How are Halloween, Popeye and the Kentucky Derby connected to Iran?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short answer is that \"candy\" is derived from the Persian \u003cem>qand,\u003c/em> meaning sugar cube. The Sailor Man's muscle-enhancing biofuel, spinach, is from the Persian \u003cem>aspanakh\u003c/em>. And as for the Kentucky Derby, can one even imagine it without mint julep? And thereby hangs a rosy tale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106376\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='The words \"sherbet\" and \"sorbet\" derive from the Persian sharbat; biryani comes from biryān; and julep started as the Persian gul-āb (rose water), then entered Arabic as julāb, and from there entered a number of European languages, with the \"b\" softened into a \"p.\"' width=\"700\" height=\"309\" class=\"size-full wp-image-106376\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85-400x177.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The words \"sherbet\" and \"sorbet\" derive from the Persian sharbat; biryani comes from biryān; and julep started as the Persian gul-āb (rose water), then entered Arabic as julāb, and from there entered a number of European languages, with the \"b\" softened into a \"p.\" \u003ccite>(my_amii/Flickr, Jay Galvin/Flickr, Justin van Dyke/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Julep is a classic example,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ames.cam.ac.uk/directory/dudneyarthur/\">Arthur Dudney\u003c/a>, a researcher in Asian and Middle Eastern studies at Cambridge University. \"It started as Persian \u003cem>gul-āb\u003c/em> (rose water), then entered Arabic as \u003cem>julāb\u003c/em> ... and from there entered a number of European languages (Latin, Provençal, Spanish, Portuguese, and French) with the 'b' softened into a 'p' (e.g.,\u003cem> julapium\u003c/em> in Latin). And from French it entered English in the 15th century. The bourbon-spiked Kentucky Derby mint julep tastes nothing like the Persian rose-water drink, but the name is from Persia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another word that has been through a complex series of linguistic hops is sherbet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For American kids, sherbet is a frozen desert, while in England it's a fizzy drink. Fans of the English children's author Enid Blyton might remember that exquisite confection called the Google bun — yes, Google — stuffed with very large currant, which features in her Faraway Tree series. When you bit into the bun, \"sherbet frothed out and filled your mouth with fine bubbles that tasted delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sherbet or sorbet is from \u003cem>sharbat,\u003c/em> a sweet iced juice drink,\" says Dudney. \"It likely came through Turkey, even though it was known in Persian-speaking India and Iran. In any case, the name in Persian and Turkish comes from \u003cem>shariba,\u003c/em> the Arabic verb to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Sharbat\u003c/em>'s basis was the ice and snow that ancient Iranians had learned to preserve during the hot summer months in spectacular domed ice wells on the edges of towns and along caravan routes,\" writes Batmanglij in \u003cem>Silk Road Cooking: A Vegetarian Journey.\u003c/em> \"The flavorings were syrups, made by combining fruit or vegetable juice with honey, sugar or date or grape molasses and boiling the mixture down to intensify the flavor. Sipped through a mound of crushed ice or snow, the syrup became a delightful drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even foods that didn't originate in Persia got Persian names, since Persia was responsible for their spread westward. Batmanglij makes this point in her best-selling book \u003cem>Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peaches, for instance, originated in China, but as they were taken from Iran to the West, they became known as the Persian apple,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orange, adds Dudney, comes to English via Spanish from the Persian \u003cem>nārang,\u003c/em> which comes from a Sanskrit word that probably had a Dravidian origin. Aubergine (eggplant), too, has a Sanskrit root, but gets its name from the Persian \u003cem>b\u003c/em>\u003cem>ā\u003c/em>\u003cem>dinj\u003c/em>\u003cem>ā\u003c/em>\u003cem>n.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-800x535.jpg\" alt=\"An illustrated map depicts the journey of the Venetian merchant Marco Polo (1254-1324) along the Silk Road to China. The caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture.\" width=\"800\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-106373\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An illustrated map depicts the journey of the Venetian merchant Marco Polo (1254-1324) along the Silk Road to China. The caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture. \u003ccite>(MPI/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Apart from trade, Persian words traveled in other ways as well. Conquerors proved to be excellent couriers. Alexander the Great, the Crusaders, the Mongols, and especially the British — who colonized India, where Persian was the court language of the Mughal emperors — all had a role to play.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The British picked up Persian words that were common in India, and these words became popular in the West,\" says Dudney, who explores this transference in his book \u003cem>Delhi: Pages From A Forgotten History.\u003c/em> \"A lot of foods traditionally associated with India have a Persian connection. Biryani comes from Persian \u003cem>biryān,\u003c/em> which means fried or roasted. And though garam masala is a spice mixture inescapably identified with Indian cooking, its name comes from Persian \u003cem>garm\u003c/em> (hot) + \u003cem>masālih\u003c/em> (spices, medicines).\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But culinary and linguistic influence is a two-way street, and Iran, too, has absorbed influences from other countries, such as rice from China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruits and vegetables imported into Iran several centuries ago are still tagged with the word \u003cem>farangi\u003c/em> (foreign) as a marker of their exotic provenance, points out Sina Negahban, a first-generation Iranian-American who blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://theunmanlychef.com/\">The Unmanly Chef\u003c/a>. So in Farsi \"the tomato is still called \u003cem>gojeh farangi,\u003c/em> meaning European plum; strawberries are \u003cem>tut farangi\u003c/em> (European berry), and green peas are \u003cem>nukhud farangi\u003c/em> (European pea).\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But more modern food imports, he says, are simply known by their original names, albeit with a Persianized twang. \"So cutlet is \u003cem>kotlet,\u003c/em> schnitzel \u003cem>shennycell,\u003c/em> and macaroni is \u003cem>mākāruni.\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russia, Iran's almost-neighbor and on-off ally, has had a distinctive influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Iran the word for sausage is \u003cem>kalbas\u003c/em> from the Russian \u003cem>kolbasa,\u003c/em>\" says Negahban, \"and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/12/14/459239436/from-russia-with-mayonnaise-cookbook-revisits-soviet-classics\">traditional mayonnaise Russian Olivier Salad\u003c/a> is a national favorite in Iran and is called Salad Olivieh.\" Interestingly, it was a Belgian chef, Lucien Olivier, who made this salad at a Moscow restaurant — another example of the layered origins of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the kiwi fruit is plain old kiwi. \"This is a good thing,\" Negahban says with a grin. \"Because when it first appeared in the bazaars, it was called \u003cem>tukhm-e-goril,\u003c/em> or gorilla testicles. Luckily, as far as I know, no one calls it that anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the decades-old ban on U.S. food chains and hard-line sloganeering against the \"Great Satan,\" American fast foods are enormously popular in Iran.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All you need to do is ask for a '\u003cem>sundivich'\u003c/em>, a \u003cem>'peetZah'\u003c/em> or \u003cem>'hambaregare,'\u003c/em> \" says Negahban. \"And if you want Kentucky Fried Chicken, look for Kabooki Fried Chicken. In 1973, Colonel Sanders and his wife came to Iran to open the first KFC. After the Islamic Revolution in 1979, the franchise ended, so the name was quickly changed to Kabooki Fried Chicken.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also find Mash Donald's, Burger House, and Pizza Hat: names that are a legacy of a bitter economic detente between the U.S. and Iran, but also a cheeky testimony to the borderless appeal of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\"> \u003c/a>is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With sanctions lifting, Iran is open for trade again. You might not realize we've been consuming the fruits of trade with Persians for centuries — in the names used for many common foods.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1454006028,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1438},"headData":{"title":"From Candy To Juleps, Persians Left Imprint On Many Edible Delights | KQED","description":"With sanctions lifting, Iran is open for trade again. You might not realize we've been consuming the fruits of trade with Persians for centuries — in the names used for many common foods.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"106371 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=106371","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/01/28/from-candy-to-juleps-persians-left-imprint-on-many-edible-delights/","disqusTitle":"From Candy To Juleps, Persians Left Imprint On Many Edible Delights","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a> ","nprImageAgency":"Henry Guttmann/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"463583428","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=463583428&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/01/19/463583428/from-candy-to-juleps-persians-left-imprint-on-many-edible-delights?ft=nprml&f=463583428","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 22 Jan 2016 09:29:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 19 Jan 2016 16:07:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 22 Jan 2016 09:29:36 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/106371/from-candy-to-juleps-persians-left-imprint-on-many-edible-delights","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>With the historic nuclear deal finally taking effect, a sanctions-free Iran can now get back to doing what it has excelled at for centuries: trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of Iran's strategic position on the Silk Road, that ancient highway that snaked from China to Europe, the caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through it also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past decade, the rhetoric around Iran has been so dominated by the enrichment of uranium that it has all but eclipsed the numerous ways in which Persia — the name Iran was known by before 1935 — has enriched the world and been enriched by it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no better evidence of this than the imprimatur of Persian on the nomenclature of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not just food with an obviously Eastern pedigree, like saffron, naan, tandoori chicken, samosa, kebab and pilaf, but everyday, Western-sounding food names such as lemon, tamarind, pistachio and jujube — all names with Persian roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fascinating though these etymologies are, they lie buried deep inside dictionaries. One woman who has worked hard to unearth them is the chef and cookbook writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.najmieh.com/\">Najmieh Batmanglij\u003c/a>, known as the Julia Child of Persian cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The reason I wrote five cookbooks over the past 35 years was to bring about awareness among Americans and make second-generation Iranian-Americans proud of their ancient heritage,\" Batmanglij tells us. She grew up in Tehran but has lived in Washington for the past three decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Persian kings had royal kitchens with butlers, sommeliers and pastry chefs,\" she says. \"Iran was the first home of many commonly used herbs, from basil to cilantro, and to scores of familiar preparations, including sweet and sour sauces and almond pastries. We know that quinces, pomegranates, almonds, fenugreek (despite its name), cumin, coriander and mustard seeds went from Iran to the West. I want to tell my readers — you know more about Persian food than you might think.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Batmanglij's assertion is validated by this quick question: How are Halloween, Popeye and the Kentucky Derby connected to Iran?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short answer is that \"candy\" is derived from the Persian \u003cem>qand,\u003c/em> meaning sugar cube. The Sailor Man's muscle-enhancing biofuel, spinach, is from the Persian \u003cem>aspanakh\u003c/em>. And as for the Kentucky Derby, can one even imagine it without mint julep? And thereby hangs a rosy tale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106376\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85.jpg\" alt='The words \"sherbet\" and \"sorbet\" derive from the Persian sharbat; biryani comes from biryān; and julep started as the Persian gul-āb (rose water), then entered Arabic as julāb, and from there entered a number of European languages, with the \"b\" softened into a \"p.\"' width=\"700\" height=\"309\" class=\"size-full wp-image-106376\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/iranian-foods_custom-60293502ea846953522f91d0e680370196bdd537-s700-c85-400x177.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The words \"sherbet\" and \"sorbet\" derive from the Persian sharbat; biryani comes from biryān; and julep started as the Persian gul-āb (rose water), then entered Arabic as julāb, and from there entered a number of European languages, with the \"b\" softened into a \"p.\" \u003ccite>(my_amii/Flickr, Jay Galvin/Flickr, Justin van Dyke/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Julep is a classic example,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ames.cam.ac.uk/directory/dudneyarthur/\">Arthur Dudney\u003c/a>, a researcher in Asian and Middle Eastern studies at Cambridge University. \"It started as Persian \u003cem>gul-āb\u003c/em> (rose water), then entered Arabic as \u003cem>julāb\u003c/em> ... and from there entered a number of European languages (Latin, Provençal, Spanish, Portuguese, and French) with the 'b' softened into a 'p' (e.g.,\u003cem> julapium\u003c/em> in Latin). And from French it entered English in the 15th century. The bourbon-spiked Kentucky Derby mint julep tastes nothing like the Persian rose-water drink, but the name is from Persia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another word that has been through a complex series of linguistic hops is sherbet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For American kids, sherbet is a frozen desert, while in England it's a fizzy drink. Fans of the English children's author Enid Blyton might remember that exquisite confection called the Google bun — yes, Google — stuffed with very large currant, which features in her Faraway Tree series. When you bit into the bun, \"sherbet frothed out and filled your mouth with fine bubbles that tasted delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sherbet or sorbet is from \u003cem>sharbat,\u003c/em> a sweet iced juice drink,\" says Dudney. \"It likely came through Turkey, even though it was known in Persian-speaking India and Iran. In any case, the name in Persian and Turkish comes from \u003cem>shariba,\u003c/em> the Arabic verb to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Sharbat\u003c/em>'s basis was the ice and snow that ancient Iranians had learned to preserve during the hot summer months in spectacular domed ice wells on the edges of towns and along caravan routes,\" writes Batmanglij in \u003cem>Silk Road Cooking: A Vegetarian Journey.\u003c/em> \"The flavorings were syrups, made by combining fruit or vegetable juice with honey, sugar or date or grape molasses and boiling the mixture down to intensify the flavor. Sipped through a mound of crushed ice or snow, the syrup became a delightful drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even foods that didn't originate in Persia got Persian names, since Persia was responsible for their spread westward. Batmanglij makes this point in her best-selling book \u003cem>Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peaches, for instance, originated in China, but as they were taken from Iran to the West, they became known as the Persian apple,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orange, adds Dudney, comes to English via Spanish from the Persian \u003cem>nārang,\u003c/em> which comes from a Sanskrit word that probably had a Dravidian origin. Aubergine (eggplant), too, has a Sanskrit root, but gets its name from the Persian \u003cem>b\u003c/em>\u003cem>ā\u003c/em>\u003cem>dinj\u003c/em>\u003cem>ā\u003c/em>\u003cem>n.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_106373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-800x535.jpg\" alt=\"An illustrated map depicts the journey of the Venetian merchant Marco Polo (1254-1324) along the Silk Road to China. The caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture.\" width=\"800\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-106373\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/01/silkroad_enl-f5bc92248701961a1cfdbfbd9fb78feb452ae8b7-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An illustrated map depicts the journey of the Venetian merchant Marco Polo (1254-1324) along the Silk Road to China. The caravans of tea, spice and silk passing through also carried a weightless but imperishable cargo to foreign shores: Persian culture. \u003ccite>(MPI/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Apart from trade, Persian words traveled in other ways as well. Conquerors proved to be excellent couriers. Alexander the Great, the Crusaders, the Mongols, and especially the British — who colonized India, where Persian was the court language of the Mughal emperors — all had a role to play.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The British picked up Persian words that were common in India, and these words became popular in the West,\" says Dudney, who explores this transference in his book \u003cem>Delhi: Pages From A Forgotten History.\u003c/em> \"A lot of foods traditionally associated with India have a Persian connection. Biryani comes from Persian \u003cem>biryān,\u003c/em> which means fried or roasted. And though garam masala is a spice mixture inescapably identified with Indian cooking, its name comes from Persian \u003cem>garm\u003c/em> (hot) + \u003cem>masālih\u003c/em> (spices, medicines).\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But culinary and linguistic influence is a two-way street, and Iran, too, has absorbed influences from other countries, such as rice from China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruits and vegetables imported into Iran several centuries ago are still tagged with the word \u003cem>farangi\u003c/em> (foreign) as a marker of their exotic provenance, points out Sina Negahban, a first-generation Iranian-American who blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://theunmanlychef.com/\">The Unmanly Chef\u003c/a>. So in Farsi \"the tomato is still called \u003cem>gojeh farangi,\u003c/em> meaning European plum; strawberries are \u003cem>tut farangi\u003c/em> (European berry), and green peas are \u003cem>nukhud farangi\u003c/em> (European pea).\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But more modern food imports, he says, are simply known by their original names, albeit with a Persianized twang. \"So cutlet is \u003cem>kotlet,\u003c/em> schnitzel \u003cem>shennycell,\u003c/em> and macaroni is \u003cem>mākāruni.\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russia, Iran's almost-neighbor and on-off ally, has had a distinctive influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Iran the word for sausage is \u003cem>kalbas\u003c/em> from the Russian \u003cem>kolbasa,\u003c/em>\" says Negahban, \"and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/12/14/459239436/from-russia-with-mayonnaise-cookbook-revisits-soviet-classics\">traditional mayonnaise Russian Olivier Salad\u003c/a> is a national favorite in Iran and is called Salad Olivieh.\" Interestingly, it was a Belgian chef, Lucien Olivier, who made this salad at a Moscow restaurant — another example of the layered origins of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the kiwi fruit is plain old kiwi. \"This is a good thing,\" Negahban says with a grin. \"Because when it first appeared in the bazaars, it was called \u003cem>tukhm-e-goril,\u003c/em> or gorilla testicles. Luckily, as far as I know, no one calls it that anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the decades-old ban on U.S. food chains and hard-line sloganeering against the \"Great Satan,\" American fast foods are enormously popular in Iran.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All you need to do is ask for a '\u003cem>sundivich'\u003c/em>, a \u003cem>'peetZah'\u003c/em> or \u003cem>'hambaregare,'\u003c/em> \" says Negahban. \"And if you want Kentucky Fried Chicken, look for Kabooki Fried Chicken. In 1973, Colonel Sanders and his wife came to Iran to open the first KFC. After the Islamic Revolution in 1979, the franchise ended, so the name was quickly changed to Kabooki Fried Chicken.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also find Mash Donald's, Burger House, and Pizza Hat: names that are a legacy of a bitter economic detente between the U.S. and Iran, but also a cheeky testimony to the borderless appeal of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\"> \u003c/a>is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/106371/from-candy-to-juleps-persians-left-imprint-on-many-edible-delights","authors":["byline_bayareabites_106371"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_11945","bayareabites_15246","bayareabites_11896","bayareabites_15245","bayareabites_15244"],"featImg":"bayareabites_106372","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_65054":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_65054","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"65054","score":null,"sort":[1373504539000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"eating-on-the-wild-side-a-field-guide-to-nutritious-food","title":"'Eating On The Wild Side:' A Field Guide To Nutritious Food","publishDate":1373504539,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/10/195592468/Eating-On-The-Wild-Side-A-Field-Guide-To-Nutritious-Food?ft=1&f=13\">Fresh Air WHYY\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/07/20130710_fa_02.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/195582692/eating-on-the-wild-side-the-missing-link-to-optimum-health\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/eating-wild-side.jpg\" alt=\"Eating on the Wild Side\" width=\"300\" height=\"465\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-65064\">\u003c/a>We like to think that if we eat our recommended daily allowance of fruits and vegetables, we're doing right by our bodies. Think again, says health writer Jo Robinson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Eating-Wild-Side-Missing-Optimum/dp/0316227943\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Eating on the Wild Side\u003c/em>, Robinson argues that our prehistoric ancestors picked and gathered wild plants that were in many ways far healthier than the stuff we buy today at farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this change, she says, isn't the result of the much-bemoaned modern, industrial food system. It has been thousands of years in the making — ever since humans first took up farming (some \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/05/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal/\">12,000 years ago\u003c/a>, more or less) and decided to \"cultivate the wild plants that were the most pleasurable to eat,\" she writes. More pleasurable generally meant less bitter and higher in sugar, starch or oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Basically,\" Robinson tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies, \"we looked around at all this wild food that we had been eating for millennia, forever, and we kind of said to each other, 'We're getting tired of eating this bitter, chewy, fibrous, low-sugar food, and we can do better than that!'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the centuries, Robinson says, those choices in human agriculture led to a dramatic loss in the nutrient value of the plants we eat most commonly — something she says we had no way of knowing until recently, when modern technology made it possible to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Robinson isn't arguing that we should all go back to foraging for our dinner. Rather, she calls her book \"a field guide to nutritious food.\" Drawing on hundreds of scientific studies, she uses her book to lay out which commonly available foods offer the best nutritional bang for the bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We learn, for example, that longer cooking can boost tomatoes' health benefits. And that broccoli begins to lose cancer-fighting compounds within 24 hours of harvest — that's why it's one of the foods that Robinson suggests people eat \"as fresh as possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65067\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/robinson-author.jpg\" alt=\"For 15 years, author and journalist Jo Robinson has been researching the foods we eat and the nutritional losses they've undergone over thousands of years. Photo: Frances Robinson /Little Brown and Co.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65067\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For 15 years, author and journalist Jo Robinson has been researching the foods we eat and the nutritional losses they've undergone over thousands of years. Photo: Frances Robinson /Little Brown and Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On prehistoric bananas\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"To peel them you had to get a machete or something similar to that to take off the skins, so we looked around and one of our remote ancestors came upon a mutant banana. This was nature's mutant — nature is making mutations all the time — and that's how we get all of the varieties that we have in our fruits and vegetables. Well, this particular mutation did away with the seeds, so that the seeds had been diminished to tiny black dots, and if you look at the bananas in our supermarket, that's what you'll see: no viable seeds but just these little dots.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On her focus on 'phytonutrients'\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"These are molecular nutrients; they're not macronutrients, and the reason that I'm focusing on them is that we're just beginning to realize that these plant compounds — the technical name for them is 'polyphenols' [but] I call them 'phytonutrients' — they play a role in every cell and system of our bodies, and every month, new information is published showing these phytonutrients are really essential for optimum health. ... [T]hese are the things we've reduced more than any of the other nutrients.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On why we should eat dandelions\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"[G]o out and find a dandelion leaf, rinse it well, and take a bite, and pay attention to your senses. For the first 10 seconds you won't sense much at all, except you'll notice that the leaf is hairy, and quite dense, quite chewy. Then, this bloom of bitterness [will] come at the roof of your mouth and go down your throat, and it's going to stay there for about 10 minutes. And many of the wild plants that we used to eat had levels of bitterness similar to that dandelion. ... Compared to spinach, which we consider a superfood, [a dandelion] has twice as much calcium, and three times as much vitamin A, five times more vitamins K and E, and eight times more antioxidants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On maximizing the nutrients in lettuce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"If you take your lettuce right from the store and rinse it and dry it and then, if you rip it into bite-sized pieces before you store it, you're going to increase the antioxidant activity ... fourfold. The next time you eat it, it's going to have four times as many antioxidants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On which produce you should eat as fresh as possible\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"There [are] fruits and vegetables that also burn up their antioxidants and their sugar at a really rapid rate, and they happen to be those superstars of nutrition that we're all encouraged to eat. So I'm just going to give you a list of things you should get as fresh as possible, perhaps from a farmers' market, which ... is going to be probably fresher than from the supermarket, and eat as soon as possible. So it would be artichokes, arugula, asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, parsley, mushrooms and spinach. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think you should have an 'Eat Me First' list on your refrigerator of those [foods] that you should eat the day you bring them home, or the next day. It could [make] a measurable difference in your health.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/195582692/eating-on-the-wild-side-the-missing-link-to-optimum-health#excerpt\">Read an Excerpt from \u003cem>Eating On The Wild Side\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (NPR.org)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Our modern fruits, grains and vegetables aren't nearly as nutrition-packed as their wild counterparts were thousands of years ago, says health writer Jo Robinson. Her new book offers advice on how to shop the produce aisle to select for foods that offer the best nutritional bang for the bite.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373504540,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":948},"headData":{"title":"'Eating On The Wild Side:' A Field Guide To Nutritious Food | KQED","description":"Our modern fruits, grains and vegetables aren't nearly as nutrition-packed as their wild counterparts were thousands of years ago, says health writer Jo Robinson. Her new book offers advice on how to shop the produce aisle to select for foods that offer the best nutritional bang for the bite.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"65054 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=65054","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/10/eating-on-the-wild-side-a-field-guide-to-nutritious-food/","disqusTitle":"'Eating On The Wild Side:' A Field Guide To Nutritious Food","nprStoryId":"195592468","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=195592468&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/10/195592468/Eating-On-The-Wild-Side-A-Field-Guide-To-Nutritious-Food?ft=3&f=195592468","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:36:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2013 11:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:36:41 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/07/20130710_fa_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1032&ft=3&f=195592468","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1200762909-ff5ea4.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1032&ft=3&f=195592468","path":"/bayareabites/65054/eating-on-the-wild-side-a-field-guide-to-nutritious-food","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/07/20130710_fa_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1032&ft=3&f=195592468","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/10/195592468/Eating-On-The-Wild-Side-A-Field-Guide-To-Nutritious-Food?ft=1&f=13\">Fresh Air WHYY\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/07/20130710_fa_02.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/195582692/eating-on-the-wild-side-the-missing-link-to-optimum-health\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/eating-wild-side.jpg\" alt=\"Eating on the Wild Side\" width=\"300\" height=\"465\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-65064\">\u003c/a>We like to think that if we eat our recommended daily allowance of fruits and vegetables, we're doing right by our bodies. Think again, says health writer Jo Robinson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Eating-Wild-Side-Missing-Optimum/dp/0316227943\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Eating on the Wild Side\u003c/em>, Robinson argues that our prehistoric ancestors picked and gathered wild plants that were in many ways far healthier than the stuff we buy today at farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this change, she says, isn't the result of the much-bemoaned modern, industrial food system. It has been thousands of years in the making — ever since humans first took up farming (some \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/05/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal/\">12,000 years ago\u003c/a>, more or less) and decided to \"cultivate the wild plants that were the most pleasurable to eat,\" she writes. More pleasurable generally meant less bitter and higher in sugar, starch or oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Basically,\" Robinson tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies, \"we looked around at all this wild food that we had been eating for millennia, forever, and we kind of said to each other, 'We're getting tired of eating this bitter, chewy, fibrous, low-sugar food, and we can do better than that!'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the centuries, Robinson says, those choices in human agriculture led to a dramatic loss in the nutrient value of the plants we eat most commonly — something she says we had no way of knowing until recently, when modern technology made it possible to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Robinson isn't arguing that we should all go back to foraging for our dinner. Rather, she calls her book \"a field guide to nutritious food.\" Drawing on hundreds of scientific studies, she uses her book to lay out which commonly available foods offer the best nutritional bang for the bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We learn, for example, that longer cooking can boost tomatoes' health benefits. And that broccoli begins to lose cancer-fighting compounds within 24 hours of harvest — that's why it's one of the foods that Robinson suggests people eat \"as fresh as possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65067\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/robinson-author.jpg\" alt=\"For 15 years, author and journalist Jo Robinson has been researching the foods we eat and the nutritional losses they've undergone over thousands of years. Photo: Frances Robinson /Little Brown and Co.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65067\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For 15 years, author and journalist Jo Robinson has been researching the foods we eat and the nutritional losses they've undergone over thousands of years. Photo: Frances Robinson /Little Brown and Co.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On prehistoric bananas\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"To peel them you had to get a machete or something similar to that to take off the skins, so we looked around and one of our remote ancestors came upon a mutant banana. This was nature's mutant — nature is making mutations all the time — and that's how we get all of the varieties that we have in our fruits and vegetables. Well, this particular mutation did away with the seeds, so that the seeds had been diminished to tiny black dots, and if you look at the bananas in our supermarket, that's what you'll see: no viable seeds but just these little dots.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On her focus on 'phytonutrients'\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"These are molecular nutrients; they're not macronutrients, and the reason that I'm focusing on them is that we're just beginning to realize that these plant compounds — the technical name for them is 'polyphenols' [but] I call them 'phytonutrients' — they play a role in every cell and system of our bodies, and every month, new information is published showing these phytonutrients are really essential for optimum health. ... [T]hese are the things we've reduced more than any of the other nutrients.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On why we should eat dandelions\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"[G]o out and find a dandelion leaf, rinse it well, and take a bite, and pay attention to your senses. For the first 10 seconds you won't sense much at all, except you'll notice that the leaf is hairy, and quite dense, quite chewy. Then, this bloom of bitterness [will] come at the roof of your mouth and go down your throat, and it's going to stay there for about 10 minutes. And many of the wild plants that we used to eat had levels of bitterness similar to that dandelion. ... Compared to spinach, which we consider a superfood, [a dandelion] has twice as much calcium, and three times as much vitamin A, five times more vitamins K and E, and eight times more antioxidants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> On maximizing the nutrients in lettuce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"If you take your lettuce right from the store and rinse it and dry it and then, if you rip it into bite-sized pieces before you store it, you're going to increase the antioxidant activity ... fourfold. The next time you eat it, it's going to have four times as many antioxidants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On which produce you should eat as fresh as possible\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"There [are] fruits and vegetables that also burn up their antioxidants and their sugar at a really rapid rate, and they happen to be those superstars of nutrition that we're all encouraged to eat. So I'm just going to give you a list of things you should get as fresh as possible, perhaps from a farmers' market, which ... is going to be probably fresher than from the supermarket, and eat as soon as possible. So it would be artichokes, arugula, asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, parsley, mushrooms and spinach. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think you should have an 'Eat Me First' list on your refrigerator of those [foods] that you should eat the day you bring them home, or the next day. It could [make] a measurable difference in your health.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/195582692/eating-on-the-wild-side-the-missing-link-to-optimum-health#excerpt\">Read an Excerpt from \u003cem>Eating On The Wild Side\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (NPR.org)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/65054/eating-on-the-wild-side-a-field-guide-to-nutritious-food","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_11981","bayareabites_11979","bayareabites_472","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_11945","bayareabites_11980","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_11279"],"featImg":"bayareabites_65064","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_64674":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64674","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64674","score":null,"sort":[1373062112000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","title":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal","publishDate":1373062112,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\" alt=\"An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Rhitu Chatterjee, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/5/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Archaeologists digging in the foothills of Iran's Zagros Mountains have discovered the remains of a Stone Age farming community. It turns out that people living there were growing plants like barley, peas and lentils as early as 12,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The findings offer a rare snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming. They also show that Iran was an important player in the origin of agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, archaeologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/prof-nicholas-j-conard-phd.html\">Nicholas Conard\u003c/a> of the University of Tubingen led an excavation in the foothills of the Zagros, a mountain range that runs along the Iran-Iraq border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on the suggestion of an Iranian colleague, he'd picked an area close to the border with Iraq and began excavating a mound about eight meters high. Before long, they hit pay dirt: The sediments were rich with artifacts. \"Sculpted clay objects, clay cones, depictions of animals and humans,\" says Conard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\" alt=\"The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were stone tools, too: things that looked like sickles, and mortar and pestles, some clearly used for grinding food. And then there were the grains and seeds — hundreds of them, charred but otherwise intact and well preserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Conard is no botanist. He's an expert on stone tools. But even his untrained eye recognized some of the grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They look like lentils you might buy at the store, or pieces of wheat or barley you might have encountered in other aspects of life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He suspected he was looking at an \"agricultural village,\" but he sent the grains to his colleague \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/riehl.html\">Simone Riehl\u003c/a> to double check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bingo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a fantastic feeling, when I first get these plant remains under the microscope,\" says Riehl, an archaeobotanist at the University of Tubingen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She confirmed that the grains were indeed varieties of lentils, barley and peas. She also identified a range of nuts and grasses, and a kind of wheat called Emmer, known to be a commonly grown crop in later centuries throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most of the grains Riehl looked at were pre-agricultural. \"They were cultivating what we consider wild progenitors of modern crops,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, 12,000 years ago, people were simply taking wild plants and growing them in fields. They hadn't started breeding crops yet, selecting varieties for yield and other desirable qualities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were probably just trying to secure their everyday needs,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Riehl's samples spanned a period of two thousand years. And in the younger samples, those about 10,000 years old, she did detect the first signs of domestication: The Emmer wheat from this period had tougher ears. \"That's because of human selection,\" she says. Those tough ears, she explains, helped keep the grains from falling to the ground when they were ripe. It made harvesting a lot easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts in prehistoric agriculture have welcomed the study, which is published in the latest issue of the journal \u003cem>Science\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's allowing us to push back our picture of early agriculture to these very, very initial stages, when people are beginning to play around with plants and their environment,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/archaeobio/zeder.html\">Melinda Zeder\u003c/a>, curator of old world archaeology at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also changes our understanding about the geographic origins of agriculture, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, she says scientists had thought agriculture arose in the western parts of the Fertile Crescent — a region that includes Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Israel — because that's where all previous evidences of early agriculture came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iran, on the other hand, is on the eastern edges of the Crescent, and was thought to be \"a non-player in the history of agriculture,\" says Zeder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new study proves otherwise, she says. It shows that communities across the entire Fertile Crescent started experimenting with farming around the same time. And that, says Zeder, is exciting.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Archaeologists had considered Iran unimportant in the history of farming – until now. Ancient seeds and farming tools uncovered in Iran reveal Stone Age people there were growing lentils, barley and other crops. The findings offer a snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373062112,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":713},"headData":{"title":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal | KQED","description":"Archaeologists had considered Iran unimportant in the history of farming – until now. Ancient seeds and farming tools uncovered in Iran reveal Stone Age people there were growing lentils, barley and other crops. The findings offer a snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"64674 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64674","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/05/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal/","disqusTitle":"Farming Got Hip In Iran Some 12,000 Years Ago, Ancient Seeds Reveal","nprByline":"Rhitu Chatterjee","nprStoryId":"198453031","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=198453031&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal?ft=3&f=198453031","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:42:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 11:15:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:42:36 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/64674/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-barley.jpg\" alt=\"An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64680\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ancient wild barley sample recovered from Chogha Golan, Iran. Photo: Courtesy of TISARP/Science\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Rhitu Chatterjee, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/05/198453031/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12-000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/5/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Archaeologists digging in the foothills of Iran's Zagros Mountains have discovered the remains of a Stone Age farming community. It turns out that people living there were growing plants like barley, peas and lentils as early as 12,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The findings offer a rare snapshot of a time when humans first started experimenting with farming. They also show that Iran was an important player in the origin of agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, archaeologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/prof-nicholas-j-conard-phd.html\">Nicholas Conard\u003c/a> of the University of Tubingen led an excavation in the foothills of the Zagros, a mountain range that runs along the Iran-Iraq border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on the suggestion of an Iranian colleague, he'd picked an area close to the border with Iraq and began excavating a mound about eight meters high. Before long, they hit pay dirt: The sediments were rich with artifacts. \"Sculpted clay objects, clay cones, depictions of animals and humans,\" says Conard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64681\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/iran-stoneagefarming.jpg\" alt=\"The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64681\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The seeds and other evidence of Stone Age farming, including tools that looked like sickles, were uncovered at a dig site in the foothills of Iran's Zagros mountains. Photo: Courtesy TISARP/University of Tubingen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were stone tools, too: things that looked like sickles, and mortar and pestles, some clearly used for grinding food. And then there were the grains and seeds — hundreds of them, charred but otherwise intact and well preserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Conard is no botanist. He's an expert on stone tools. But even his untrained eye recognized some of the grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They look like lentils you might buy at the store, or pieces of wheat or barley you might have encountered in other aspects of life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He suspected he was looking at an \"agricultural village,\" but he sent the grains to his colleague \u003ca href=\"http://www.geo.uni-tuebingen.de/arbeitsgruppen/urgeschichte-und-naturwissenschaftliche-archaeologie/aeltere-urgeschichte-quartaeroekologie/mitarbeiter/riehl.html\">Simone Riehl\u003c/a> to double check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bingo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a fantastic feeling, when I first get these plant remains under the microscope,\" says Riehl, an archaeobotanist at the University of Tubingen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She confirmed that the grains were indeed varieties of lentils, barley and peas. She also identified a range of nuts and grasses, and a kind of wheat called Emmer, known to be a commonly grown crop in later centuries throughout the Middle East.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most of the grains Riehl looked at were pre-agricultural. \"They were cultivating what we consider wild progenitors of modern crops,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, 12,000 years ago, people were simply taking wild plants and growing them in fields. They hadn't started breeding crops yet, selecting varieties for yield and other desirable qualities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were probably just trying to secure their everyday needs,\" says Riehl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Riehl's samples spanned a period of two thousand years. And in the younger samples, those about 10,000 years old, she did detect the first signs of domestication: The Emmer wheat from this period had tougher ears. \"That's because of human selection,\" she says. Those tough ears, she explains, helped keep the grains from falling to the ground when they were ripe. It made harvesting a lot easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Experts in prehistoric agriculture have welcomed the study, which is published in the latest issue of the journal \u003cem>Science\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's allowing us to push back our picture of early agriculture to these very, very initial stages, when people are beginning to play around with plants and their environment,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/archaeobio/zeder.html\">Melinda Zeder\u003c/a>, curator of old world archaeology at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also changes our understanding about the geographic origins of agriculture, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, she says scientists had thought agriculture arose in the western parts of the Fertile Crescent — a region that includes Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Israel — because that's where all previous evidences of early agriculture came from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iran, on the other hand, is on the eastern edges of the Crescent, and was thought to be \"a non-player in the history of agriculture,\" says Zeder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new study proves otherwise, she says. It shows that communities across the entire Fertile Crescent started experimenting with farming around the same time. And that, says Zeder, is exciting.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64674/farming-got-hip-in-iran-some-12000-years-ago-ancient-seeds-reveal","authors":["byline_bayareabites_64674"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_129","bayareabites_11948","bayareabites_9910","bayareabites_11946","bayareabites_2143","bayareabites_1057","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_11945","bayareabites_11286","bayareabites_2141","bayareabites_11947","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64680","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. 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Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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