Herring Headache: The Big Obstacles To Eating Small Fish In California
Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread
Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating
Eat Fish And Prosper?
Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built
San Francisco Oil Spill & Our Local Fishing Industry
Sponsored
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Photography is a passion, and I have had photos printed in \u003cem>National Geographic Traveler\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>.\r\n\r\nI contributed to a Williams-Sonoma cookbook: \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/cooking-from-the-farmers-market-cookbook/\">Cooking from the Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, which was released in February 2010.\r\n\r\nI live in San Francisco, California and can often be found at local farmers markets seeking out the best of what's in season and chatting with farmers.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Jennifer Maiser | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/jennifer-maiser"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_107267":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107267","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107267","score":null,"sort":[1456780010000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"herring-headache-the-big-obstacles-to-eating-small-fish-in-california","title":"Herring Headache: The Big Obstacles To Eating Small Fish In California","publishDate":1456780010,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Every winter, a small fleet of commercial fishing boats sets gillnets in the San Francisco Bay. Their target: Pacific herring, which enter the estuary in huge numbers to spawn and are easily caught by the millions. The fishermen fill their holds with herring just yards from the waterfront of downtown San Francisco, where many restaurants serve fresh, locally caught seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But they rarely serve herring. Rather, nearly all the herring caught by commercial fishermen in the bay are ultimately fed to animals, including farm-reared fish. The most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted,cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy \u003cem>kazunoko.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a few sustainable seafood proponents and commercial fishermen are striving to change this – to divert the stream of herring that enters obscure export markets and turn this little fish into a local culinary star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Success, however, has been limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We haven't done nearly a good enough job yet of promoting herring as a local, sustainable food source,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/about-oceana/people-partners/oceana-staff/geoff-shester\">Geoff Shester\u003c/a>, California campaign director for the marine protection group Oceana. \"We live in one of the most progressive, conservation-oriented cities in the country, and virtually no one is utilizing this healthy, sustainable resource that's right in their backyard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herring are delicious, with flaky, mild meat and oil that sizzles on their skin when grilled over a flame. The fish may also be pickled, smoked and fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Americans generally aren't interested in eating small, oily fish with numerous bones – even though, in the case of herring, their oil content is part of what makes them tasty and healthy, and many of their bones are small enough that they can be eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mainstream American palate for seafood is really disappointing,\" says commercial fisherman Kirk Lombard, who has a commercially registered kayak and sells hook-and-line-caught fish through his company, \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/#!sustainable---information/cz0r\" target=\"_blank\">Sea Forager\u003c/a>. \"People want to eat fish that doesn't have any flavor, and they don't want to deal with bones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs and seafood advocates around the world are trying to change this. Last March, 20 star chefs \u003ca href=\"http://perfectprotein.oceana.org/meet-the-chefs/\">gathered in Spain\u003c/a> to discuss the environmental virtues of eating what many still call \"bait fish\" and ways to promote these species – including anchovies, sardines, mackerel and herring – as culinary attractions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the case of California's herring exemplifies some of the challenges of spreading this message. For one thing, many seafood fans here – and chefs, for that matter – don't know much about herring, says Kenny Belov, owner of Fish Restaurant in Sausalito, Calif.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you don't know something is coming into season, you're less excited to use it,\" Belov says. \"Everyone knows when Dungeness crab is supposed to start, and everyone knows when king salmon is supposed to start. How many people can tell you when it's herring season?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Belov has been trying to get people interested in herring for more than a decade, mainly by featuring it at his restaurant. He also sells herring through his seafood company, \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">TwoXSea\u003c/a>, and has been a sponsor of the annual Sausalito Herring Festival, which just saw its fourth go-around in January. While a few dozen other Bay Area restaurants also serve herring, Belov guesses more than 99 percent of the San Francisco Bay herring catch is processed for roe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This processing happens in British Columbia, home to a large commercial herring industry of its own. Whereas the San Francisco Bay fleet captures, at most, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildlife.ca.gov/Fishing/Commercial/Landings#26004609-2014\">2,000 or 3,000\u003c/a> tons of herring in a season – and often much less – the Canadian fishery lands \u003ca href=\"http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/science/species-especes/pelagic-pelagique/herring-hareng/herspawn/hcatch1b-eng.html\">15,000 to 30,000\u003c/a> tons a season. The fish processed for their roe are split open and the large, finger-sized egg sacks of the females extracted and reserved for curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107274\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe.jpg\" alt=\"For commercial fishermen in the San Francisco Bay, the most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted, cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy <em>kazunoko</em>.\" width=\"700\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107274\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For commercial fishermen in the San Francisco Bay, the most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted, cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em>. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland for NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.canfisco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Canadian Fishing Company\u003c/a>, based in Vancouver, all carcasses of herring processed for roe are reduced into fishmeal and sold to farms and aquaculture facilities, including coastal salmon-rearing operations, according to Rob Morley, the company's vice-president of production and corporate development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feeding these fish to humans would be a better use of all that protein, argues Geoff Shester of Oceana. He says small schooling fish like herring are especially healthy to eat, since they contain low mercury levels compared to predatory species like swordfish, shark and tuna. Small forage fish species are also lower on the food chain, which means it takes less energy for the ocean to produce them, Shester says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feeding these small fish to bigger, farmed\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>fish, like salmon or tuna, is relatively wasteful, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're actually helping save herring by eating them directly, because if you eat a pound of farmed salmon, it took four pounds of herring to create that salmon,\" Shester says. \"So, you could just eat the one pound of herring directly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lombard \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYz6mO5vAWA\" target=\"_blank\">has delivered a TEDx talk\u003c/a> about the importance of eating smaller fishes lower on the food chain and says it makes every bit of sense to eat herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The marine food web is based on eating little fish,\" he tells me. \"They're designed by nature to come back, to resist predation and overfishing. They're the rabbits, the field mice, of the sea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just consumer tastes that have impeded efforts to develop a Bay Area market for whole, fresh herring: There are also regulatory hurdles. As things are now, only commercial fishermen with boats and gillnets may sell herring. For these fishermen, who catch herring by the ton, the most profitable way to move the fish onshore and return to the water to catch more is to sell the herring into the roe market, which relies on huge quantities of fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The handlers who buy seafood at San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, says Lombard, are happy to sell handfuls to restaurants and retailers now and then. But the herring, he says, are often in bad shape, and not particularly appetizing for chef shoppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're choked, beaten, sometimes even walked on, stacked 20 tons deep, and then vacuumed into a giant plastic bin,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, Lombard attempted to create a small-scale, artisanal fishery specifically to provide herring to local restaurants and retailers. He proposed that state fishery regulators adjust the law to allow fishermen using hand-thrown cast nets to catch small quantities of herring to sell directly to markets and restaurants. The proposal, says Lombard, was quickly rejected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some locals who want herring catch the fish themselves, mainly with small cast nets thrown from the shore. Mike Chin, a Bay Area resident and recreational fisherman, catches several bucketfuls – about 100 pounds – of herring by this method each winter. At home, he smokes, pickles and pan fries his catch. He cooks many whole, and the backbones, pushed to the side of the plate during dinner, can be fried later for a crunchy, delicious snack. The innards and gills are used as garden fertilizer. Virtually nothing is wasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really think it's great to get the word out about this, that you don't need a big piece of white fillet,\" Chin says. \"You can eat these small fish, and the bones won't kill you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and environmentalists have been promoting the benefits of eating fish lower down the food chain. But San Francisco's herring fishery shows some of the challenges to spreading that message.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1456780010,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1272},"headData":{"title":"Herring Headache: The Big Obstacles To Eating Small Fish In California | KQED","description":"Chefs and environmentalists have been promoting the benefits of eating fish lower down the food chain. But San Francisco's herring fishery shows some of the challenges to spreading that message.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"107267 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107267","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/29/herring-headache-the-big-obstacles-to-eating-small-fish-in-california/","disqusTitle":"Herring Headache: The Big Obstacles To Eating Small Fish In California","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Alastair Bland for NPR","nprStoryId":"467954091","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=467954091&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/29/467954091/herring-headache-the-big-obstacles-to-eating-small-fish-in-california?ft=nprml&f=467954091","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 29 Feb 2016 07:00:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 29 Feb 2016 07:00:09 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 29 Feb 2016 07:00:09 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/107267/herring-headache-the-big-obstacles-to-eating-small-fish-in-california","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Every winter, a small fleet of commercial fishing boats sets gillnets in the San Francisco Bay. Their target: Pacific herring, which enter the estuary in huge numbers to spawn and are easily caught by the millions. The fishermen fill their holds with herring just yards from the waterfront of downtown San Francisco, where many restaurants serve fresh, locally caught seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But they rarely serve herring. Rather, nearly all the herring caught by commercial fishermen in the bay are ultimately fed to animals, including farm-reared fish. The most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted,cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy \u003cem>kazunoko.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a few sustainable seafood proponents and commercial fishermen are striving to change this – to divert the stream of herring that enters obscure export markets and turn this little fish into a local culinary star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Success, however, has been limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We haven't done nearly a good enough job yet of promoting herring as a local, sustainable food source,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://oceana.org/about-oceana/people-partners/oceana-staff/geoff-shester\">Geoff Shester\u003c/a>, California campaign director for the marine protection group Oceana. \"We live in one of the most progressive, conservation-oriented cities in the country, and virtually no one is utilizing this healthy, sustainable resource that's right in their backyard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herring are delicious, with flaky, mild meat and oil that sizzles on their skin when grilled over a flame. The fish may also be pickled, smoked and fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Americans generally aren't interested in eating small, oily fish with numerous bones – even though, in the case of herring, their oil content is part of what makes them tasty and healthy, and many of their bones are small enough that they can be eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mainstream American palate for seafood is really disappointing,\" says commercial fisherman Kirk Lombard, who has a commercially registered kayak and sells hook-and-line-caught fish through his company, \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/#!sustainable---information/cz0r\" target=\"_blank\">Sea Forager\u003c/a>. \"People want to eat fish that doesn't have any flavor, and they don't want to deal with bones.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs and seafood advocates around the world are trying to change this. Last March, 20 star chefs \u003ca href=\"http://perfectprotein.oceana.org/meet-the-chefs/\">gathered in Spain\u003c/a> to discuss the environmental virtues of eating what many still call \"bait fish\" and ways to promote these species – including anchovies, sardines, mackerel and herring – as culinary attractions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the case of California's herring exemplifies some of the challenges of spreading this message. For one thing, many seafood fans here – and chefs, for that matter – don't know much about herring, says Kenny Belov, owner of Fish Restaurant in Sausalito, Calif.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you don't know something is coming into season, you're less excited to use it,\" Belov says. \"Everyone knows when Dungeness crab is supposed to start, and everyone knows when king salmon is supposed to start. How many people can tell you when it's herring season?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Belov has been trying to get people interested in herring for more than a decade, mainly by featuring it at his restaurant. He also sells herring through his seafood company, \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">TwoXSea\u003c/a>, and has been a sponsor of the annual Sausalito Herring Festival, which just saw its fourth go-around in January. While a few dozen other Bay Area restaurants also serve herring, Belov guesses more than 99 percent of the San Francisco Bay herring catch is processed for roe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This processing happens in British Columbia, home to a large commercial herring industry of its own. Whereas the San Francisco Bay fleet captures, at most, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildlife.ca.gov/Fishing/Commercial/Landings#26004609-2014\">2,000 or 3,000\u003c/a> tons of herring in a season – and often much less – the Canadian fishery lands \u003ca href=\"http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/science/species-especes/pelagic-pelagique/herring-hareng/herspawn/hcatch1b-eng.html\">15,000 to 30,000\u003c/a> tons a season. The fish processed for their roe are split open and the large, finger-sized egg sacks of the females extracted and reserved for curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107274\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe.jpg\" alt=\"For commercial fishermen in the San Francisco Bay, the most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted, cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy <em>kazunoko</em>.\" width=\"700\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-107274\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/herringroe-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For commercial fishermen in the San Francisco Bay, the most valuable part of the herring is the females' roe, which is extracted, cured and eaten in Japan as the delicacy \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em>. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland for NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.canfisco.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Canadian Fishing Company\u003c/a>, based in Vancouver, all carcasses of herring processed for roe are reduced into fishmeal and sold to farms and aquaculture facilities, including coastal salmon-rearing operations, according to Rob Morley, the company's vice-president of production and corporate development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feeding these fish to humans would be a better use of all that protein, argues Geoff Shester of Oceana. He says small schooling fish like herring are especially healthy to eat, since they contain low mercury levels compared to predatory species like swordfish, shark and tuna. Small forage fish species are also lower on the food chain, which means it takes less energy for the ocean to produce them, Shester says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feeding these small fish to bigger, farmed\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>fish, like salmon or tuna, is relatively wasteful, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're actually helping save herring by eating them directly, because if you eat a pound of farmed salmon, it took four pounds of herring to create that salmon,\" Shester says. \"So, you could just eat the one pound of herring directly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lombard \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYz6mO5vAWA\" target=\"_blank\">has delivered a TEDx talk\u003c/a> about the importance of eating smaller fishes lower on the food chain and says it makes every bit of sense to eat herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The marine food web is based on eating little fish,\" he tells me. \"They're designed by nature to come back, to resist predation and overfishing. They're the rabbits, the field mice, of the sea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just consumer tastes that have impeded efforts to develop a Bay Area market for whole, fresh herring: There are also regulatory hurdles. As things are now, only commercial fishermen with boats and gillnets may sell herring. For these fishermen, who catch herring by the ton, the most profitable way to move the fish onshore and return to the water to catch more is to sell the herring into the roe market, which relies on huge quantities of fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The handlers who buy seafood at San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, says Lombard, are happy to sell handfuls to restaurants and retailers now and then. But the herring, he says, are often in bad shape, and not particularly appetizing for chef shoppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're choked, beaten, sometimes even walked on, stacked 20 tons deep, and then vacuumed into a giant plastic bin,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, Lombard attempted to create a small-scale, artisanal fishery specifically to provide herring to local restaurants and retailers. He proposed that state fishery regulators adjust the law to allow fishermen using hand-thrown cast nets to catch small quantities of herring to sell directly to markets and restaurants. The proposal, says Lombard, was quickly rejected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some locals who want herring catch the fish themselves, mainly with small cast nets thrown from the shore. Mike Chin, a Bay Area resident and recreational fisherman, catches several bucketfuls – about 100 pounds – of herring by this method each winter. At home, he smokes, pickles and pan fries his catch. He cooks many whole, and the backbones, pushed to the side of the plate during dinner, can be fried later for a crunchy, delicious snack. The innards and gills are used as garden fertilizer. Virtually nothing is wasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really think it's great to get the word out about this, that you don't need a big piece of white fillet,\" Chin says. \"You can eat these small fish, and the bones won't kill you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in San Francisco who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107267/herring-headache-the-big-obstacles-to-eating-small-fish-in-california","authors":["byline_bayareabites_107267"],"categories":["bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_250","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_529"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107268","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78315":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78315","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78315","score":null,"sort":[1392598899000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","title":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread","publishDate":1392598899,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you gather with friends to watch the Olympics this weekend, why not prepare what they might serve in Sochi? Try, say, herring instead of chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're really presenting food the Russian way, you'll need to make more than one snack. And get your libations in order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Zakuski\u003c/em> are often described as Russia's answer to tapas — a little bite to have with your drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>Zakuski \u003c/em>are like Russian tapas. More than a delicious snack, these dishes also tell the story of Russia. From \"Herring Under a Fur Coat\" to pickled everything, \u003cem>zakuski \u003c/em>teach us about harsh winters and state-sponsored products in the Soviet era.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1392598899,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":799},"headData":{"title":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread | KQED","description":"Zakuski are like Russian tapas. More than a delicious snack, these dishes also tell the story of Russia. From "Herring Under a Fur Coat" to pickled everything, zakuski teach us about harsh winters and state-sponsored products in the Soviet era.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"78315 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78315","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/16/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread/","disqusTitle":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread","nprByline":"Deena Prichep","nprStoryId":"277043707","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=277043707&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread?ft=3&f=277043707","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:43:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Sat, 15 Feb 2014 05:15:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:43:39 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1277385123-b6181f.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","path":"/bayareabites/78315/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you gather with friends to watch the Olympics this weekend, why not prepare what they might serve in Sochi? Try, say, herring instead of chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're really presenting food the Russian way, you'll need to make more than one snack. And get your libations in order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Zakuski\u003c/em> are often described as Russia's answer to tapas — a little bite to have with your drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78315/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78315"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_529","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_13079","bayareabites_13083","bayareabites_13082"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78319","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_77307":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_77307","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"77307","score":null,"sort":[1391809727000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-areas-herring-run-is-on-go-hyperlocal-in-your-seafood-eating","title":"Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating","publishDate":1391809727,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77807\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77807\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quick: what's the last commercial fish species still caught in San Francisco Bay?\u003c/strong> Nope, not oysters, not Dungeness crab. It's herring, and right now, our herrings' winter spawning run is in full swing. If you've ever wanted to go hyperlocal in your seafood eating, now's your chance to get these healthy, delicious, and very sustainable fish onto your table. Fresh herring is popping up on restaurant menus and fish markets around the Bay Area. (The second annual \u003ca href=\"http://cassgidley.org/news-and-events/sausalito-herring-festival/\">Sausalito Herring Festival\u003c/a> was planned for Sunday, Feb. 9, but has unfortunately been cancelled due to the weekend's storm.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have Scandinavian, German, Eastern European or Jewish roots, you've probably eaten herring before--probably pickled, maybe smoked, often doused in sour cream sauce with sliced onions. Sometimes fat chunks of pickled herring were wrapped around olives, onions, or pickles, in a preparation typically known as rollmops. As a Jewish kid in New Jersey, I grew up with a perpetual jar of herring in the fridge, and that's where I thought herring came from: out of the fridge, from a jar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so. The Pacific herring's spawning run from the open ocean into San Francisco Bay typically happens between mid-January and mid-March, to the delight of both commercial and sport fishermen. Many thousands of sea gulls, cormorants, pelicans, murres, ducks, sea lions, and more go into a squawking, barking feeding frenzy when the fat, roe-filled herring arrive. So far, the herring population this year looks quite robust, good news after the near-collapse of the population in 2009, when the state closed down the commercial herring fishery completely in hopes of letting the spawning fish rebuild their numbers. As a \"forage fish\" for dozens of predators, herring is a valuable food source for a wide range of bird and marine life in the area, supporting many migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway, as well as sea lions, salmon, even whales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The golden roe, or egg sacs, of the female herring are treasured in Japan, where they are known as \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em> and are especially prized as a delicacy for \u003cem>Shogatsu,\u003c/em> or Japanese New Year. Until quite recently, most of the local herring catch focused on the roe, which were salted and sent to Japan. The rest of the fish were often used for fishmeal, pet food, or even discarded. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, local awareness of this tasty, seasonal fish has grown, and more and more restaurants and fish markets are featuring it during its short winter season. Herring is rich in omega-3 fats and vitamin D, and since it eats low on the food chain, feeding on drifting phytoplankton (tiny plants) and zooplankton (mostly tiny crustaceans and larvae), it typically contains very low levels of mercury and other heavy metals that large fish like tuna and swordfish can accumulate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/herring/\">California Department of Fish and Wildlife\u003c/a> has set a yearly fishing quota of no more than 5% of the total estimated herring population in the Bay, in order to protect the stocks for future runs, with this year's quota set at about 3,700 tons. The department surveys the population every year, since the recruitment (spawning survival) rates vary greatly from year to year, depending on climate, ocean temperature, habitat, and many other factors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, who's got herring on the menu?\u003c/strong> Typically, herring is served pickled or marinated, which gives a firm, succulent texture to the raw fish, much like ceviche. At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.healdsburgshed.com\">Shed\u003c/a> in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, pickled herring comes Scandinavian style with creamed onions and sprouted rye bread. Marinated herring with bok choy and winter squash is on the appetizer menu at \u003ca href=\"http://richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, while \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com\">Waterbar\u003c/a> along the Embarcadero is roasting their herring in the wood oven, then serving it with warm fingerling potatoes, whole grain mustard, and sherry-roasted onions. For true nose-to-tail types, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a> is offering a three-course herring menu: pickled with beet, radish, carrot, ancho cress and creme fraiche; milt and roe on toast with vadouvan aioli; and smoked with potato, apple, cabbage, and whole-grain mustard. They're sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">Two X Sea\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water2Table\u003c/a>. This weekend, you can also look for fresh herring on the menus at \u003ca href=\"http://walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a> in San Francisco and \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish.\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelinorestaurant.com/\">Angelino\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://osteriadivino.com/home.html\">Osteria Divino\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://sushiran.com/\">Sushi Ran\u003c/a> in Sausalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77808\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\" alt=\"At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's Spanish-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.duendeoakland.com\">Duende\u003c/a>, the tapas menu includes a \u003cem>tosta de pescado\u003c/em> of pickled herring and steelhead mousse. \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatpekopeko.com\">Peko Peko\u003c/a>, a Japanese catering company and pop-up izakaya restaurant in Temescal, featured herring nanban-zuke--a Japanese preparation similar to escabeche--at a recent dinner. Nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagels\u003c/a> is hoping to get more herring in the house by this weekend; if they do, says chef-owner Blake Joffe, they'll pickle it in white wine with onion, garlic, allspice, mustard seed, dill, and bay leaf. Once pickled, it will be served over arugula dressed with the pickling liquid, with a bagel and cream cheese on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to source your own, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/retail.html\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> in Berkeley \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockridgemarkethall.com/hapuku-fish\"> Hapuku Fish\u003c/a> in Rockridge's Market Hall both have fresh local herring in stock. Kirk Lombard, who runs frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/\">Sea Forager tours\u003c/a> around the Bay, does a \"herring alert\" for interested subscribers on his email list to let them know when the fish are running. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77805\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77805\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about catching and cooking your own?\u003c/strong> Bay Area Bites spoke with Maria Finn, author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. Finn, who lives on a houseboat in Sausalito's Richardson Bay, has a front-row seat on the season's herring feeding frenzy, as sea lions, sea birds gather in the water just outside her windows when the herring show up. She shared her tips for preparing every part of the fish, below. (For tips and how-to videos on scaling, filleting, and smoking whole fish, check out this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">post\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Last week, I went out on a small boat in Richardson Bay in Sausalito with a neighbor and used a hand-tossed net. However, some people were wading out a few feet and catching them with five-gallon buckets near the Tiburon Ferry landing, so you don't need a boat or net. Just look for the critical mass of sea lions, sea birds, and/or commercial fishing boats. You do need a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/licensing/fishing/\"> sport fishing license\u003c/a> to catch herring; there are one- and two-day licenses available, as well as full-season ones. Also, as I tossed the net amid lots of frolicking sea lions and seals, some seaweed with herring eggs came up, so I save some of that as well. I took about half of a five-gallon bucket of herring, and trust me, that's a lot of fish to clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\" alt=\"Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77812\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Okay, you've got your fish and your seaweed with roe. Now what? Do you treat the male and female fish differently?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn: \u003c/strong>First, I gutted them. I slit up their bellies very delicately so as to not cut open the egg sacs or milt sacs. The egg sacs I set aside for bottarga. For this, I keep the sacs intact, coat them with a little olive oil, and then salt and put them in the fridge overnight. The next day, I take them out and layer them between salt for a week. After they are stiff, I take out an egg sac, rinse it and grate it over pasta (I like pappardelle by \u003ca href=\"http://communitygrains.com/products/dried-pasta\">Community Grains\u003c/a>) and add some greens like kale and then a poached egg on top. Ridiculously good. With the roe-on-kelp, I mixed them with thinly sliced cucumbers and put a sesame oil-rice vinegar dressing on them. The male \"milt\" or sperm, I dredged in flour, pan-fried in butter, and then spread on toast. (I learned this from Douglas Bernstein at \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> restaurant in Sausalito). For the fish itself, after gutting, I scaled them, tossed them in olive oil and salt and grilled them. I made a preserved lemon and anchovy sauce to drizzle on them. They were really good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You mentioned earlier that you shared some of your herring with chef friends. What did they do with them? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Andrea Blum, the former chef at \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Art Center\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipper\">kippered\u003c/a> some. David Johnson, my next door neighbor, who runs the \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> nearby, is smoking them for herring salad sandwiches. For the now-cancelled Sausalito herring festival, he had planned to make a herring paella. My neighbor Maude Bradley is also a chef. She took a bag home and made herring in ginger miso and poached herring with garlic, leeks, and olives. Her favorite was Super Bowl snacks of crispy fried salt-and-pepper herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What about your cats? Did they get any herring treats? Can you use the scraps to catch other fish? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> My fat little cats like unhealthy, junk-cat food. So I keep the herring raw (heads, guts, blood lines, etc), grind it up, and slip it into their wet food. Over time, I want to incorporate more and more until they are eating raw, local seafood scraps and not the junk food they love so much now. I also save heads and other parts I don't eat to use for bait when I'm out fishing for stripers or ling cod, or to use to bait my crab pot. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The herring run is on in San Francisco. Bay Area Bites talks to local sustainable-seafood expert Maria Finn for tips on sourcing and cooking every part of this healthy, affordable, and very local fish during its brief appearance in our waters. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1391886608,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1687},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating | KQED","description":"The herring run is on in San Francisco. Bay Area Bites talks to local sustainable-seafood expert Maria Finn for tips on sourcing and cooking every part of this healthy, affordable, and very local fish during its brief appearance in our waters. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"77307 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=77307","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/07/bay-areas-herring-run-is-on-go-hyperlocal-in-your-seafood-eating/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating","path":"/bayareabites/77307/bay-areas-herring-run-is-on-go-hyperlocal-in-your-seafood-eating","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77807\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77807\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quick: what's the last commercial fish species still caught in San Francisco Bay?\u003c/strong> Nope, not oysters, not Dungeness crab. It's herring, and right now, our herrings' winter spawning run is in full swing. If you've ever wanted to go hyperlocal in your seafood eating, now's your chance to get these healthy, delicious, and very sustainable fish onto your table. Fresh herring is popping up on restaurant menus and fish markets around the Bay Area. (The second annual \u003ca href=\"http://cassgidley.org/news-and-events/sausalito-herring-festival/\">Sausalito Herring Festival\u003c/a> was planned for Sunday, Feb. 9, but has unfortunately been cancelled due to the weekend's storm.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have Scandinavian, German, Eastern European or Jewish roots, you've probably eaten herring before--probably pickled, maybe smoked, often doused in sour cream sauce with sliced onions. Sometimes fat chunks of pickled herring were wrapped around olives, onions, or pickles, in a preparation typically known as rollmops. As a Jewish kid in New Jersey, I grew up with a perpetual jar of herring in the fridge, and that's where I thought herring came from: out of the fridge, from a jar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so. The Pacific herring's spawning run from the open ocean into San Francisco Bay typically happens between mid-January and mid-March, to the delight of both commercial and sport fishermen. Many thousands of sea gulls, cormorants, pelicans, murres, ducks, sea lions, and more go into a squawking, barking feeding frenzy when the fat, roe-filled herring arrive. So far, the herring population this year looks quite robust, good news after the near-collapse of the population in 2009, when the state closed down the commercial herring fishery completely in hopes of letting the spawning fish rebuild their numbers. As a \"forage fish\" for dozens of predators, herring is a valuable food source for a wide range of bird and marine life in the area, supporting many migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway, as well as sea lions, salmon, even whales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The golden roe, or egg sacs, of the female herring are treasured in Japan, where they are known as \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em> and are especially prized as a delicacy for \u003cem>Shogatsu,\u003c/em> or Japanese New Year. Until quite recently, most of the local herring catch focused on the roe, which were salted and sent to Japan. The rest of the fish were often used for fishmeal, pet food, or even discarded. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, local awareness of this tasty, seasonal fish has grown, and more and more restaurants and fish markets are featuring it during its short winter season. Herring is rich in omega-3 fats and vitamin D, and since it eats low on the food chain, feeding on drifting phytoplankton (tiny plants) and zooplankton (mostly tiny crustaceans and larvae), it typically contains very low levels of mercury and other heavy metals that large fish like tuna and swordfish can accumulate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/herring/\">California Department of Fish and Wildlife\u003c/a> has set a yearly fishing quota of no more than 5% of the total estimated herring population in the Bay, in order to protect the stocks for future runs, with this year's quota set at about 3,700 tons. The department surveys the population every year, since the recruitment (spawning survival) rates vary greatly from year to year, depending on climate, ocean temperature, habitat, and many other factors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, who's got herring on the menu?\u003c/strong> Typically, herring is served pickled or marinated, which gives a firm, succulent texture to the raw fish, much like ceviche. At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.healdsburgshed.com\">Shed\u003c/a> in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, pickled herring comes Scandinavian style with creamed onions and sprouted rye bread. Marinated herring with bok choy and winter squash is on the appetizer menu at \u003ca href=\"http://richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, while \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com\">Waterbar\u003c/a> along the Embarcadero is roasting their herring in the wood oven, then serving it with warm fingerling potatoes, whole grain mustard, and sherry-roasted onions. For true nose-to-tail types, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a> is offering a three-course herring menu: pickled with beet, radish, carrot, ancho cress and creme fraiche; milt and roe on toast with vadouvan aioli; and smoked with potato, apple, cabbage, and whole-grain mustard. They're sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">Two X Sea\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water2Table\u003c/a>. This weekend, you can also look for fresh herring on the menus at \u003ca href=\"http://walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a> in San Francisco and \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish.\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelinorestaurant.com/\">Angelino\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://osteriadivino.com/home.html\">Osteria Divino\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://sushiran.com/\">Sushi Ran\u003c/a> in Sausalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77808\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\" alt=\"At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's Spanish-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.duendeoakland.com\">Duende\u003c/a>, the tapas menu includes a \u003cem>tosta de pescado\u003c/em> of pickled herring and steelhead mousse. \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatpekopeko.com\">Peko Peko\u003c/a>, a Japanese catering company and pop-up izakaya restaurant in Temescal, featured herring nanban-zuke--a Japanese preparation similar to escabeche--at a recent dinner. Nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagels\u003c/a> is hoping to get more herring in the house by this weekend; if they do, says chef-owner Blake Joffe, they'll pickle it in white wine with onion, garlic, allspice, mustard seed, dill, and bay leaf. Once pickled, it will be served over arugula dressed with the pickling liquid, with a bagel and cream cheese on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to source your own, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/retail.html\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> in Berkeley \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockridgemarkethall.com/hapuku-fish\"> Hapuku Fish\u003c/a> in Rockridge's Market Hall both have fresh local herring in stock. Kirk Lombard, who runs frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/\">Sea Forager tours\u003c/a> around the Bay, does a \"herring alert\" for interested subscribers on his email list to let them know when the fish are running. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77805\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77805\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about catching and cooking your own?\u003c/strong> Bay Area Bites spoke with Maria Finn, author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. Finn, who lives on a houseboat in Sausalito's Richardson Bay, has a front-row seat on the season's herring feeding frenzy, as sea lions, sea birds gather in the water just outside her windows when the herring show up. She shared her tips for preparing every part of the fish, below. (For tips and how-to videos on scaling, filleting, and smoking whole fish, check out this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">post\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Last week, I went out on a small boat in Richardson Bay in Sausalito with a neighbor and used a hand-tossed net. However, some people were wading out a few feet and catching them with five-gallon buckets near the Tiburon Ferry landing, so you don't need a boat or net. Just look for the critical mass of sea lions, sea birds, and/or commercial fishing boats. You do need a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/licensing/fishing/\"> sport fishing license\u003c/a> to catch herring; there are one- and two-day licenses available, as well as full-season ones. Also, as I tossed the net amid lots of frolicking sea lions and seals, some seaweed with herring eggs came up, so I save some of that as well. I took about half of a five-gallon bucket of herring, and trust me, that's a lot of fish to clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\" alt=\"Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77812\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Okay, you've got your fish and your seaweed with roe. Now what? Do you treat the male and female fish differently?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn: \u003c/strong>First, I gutted them. I slit up their bellies very delicately so as to not cut open the egg sacs or milt sacs. The egg sacs I set aside for bottarga. For this, I keep the sacs intact, coat them with a little olive oil, and then salt and put them in the fridge overnight. The next day, I take them out and layer them between salt for a week. After they are stiff, I take out an egg sac, rinse it and grate it over pasta (I like pappardelle by \u003ca href=\"http://communitygrains.com/products/dried-pasta\">Community Grains\u003c/a>) and add some greens like kale and then a poached egg on top. Ridiculously good. With the roe-on-kelp, I mixed them with thinly sliced cucumbers and put a sesame oil-rice vinegar dressing on them. The male \"milt\" or sperm, I dredged in flour, pan-fried in butter, and then spread on toast. (I learned this from Douglas Bernstein at \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> restaurant in Sausalito). For the fish itself, after gutting, I scaled them, tossed them in olive oil and salt and grilled them. I made a preserved lemon and anchovy sauce to drizzle on them. They were really good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You mentioned earlier that you shared some of your herring with chef friends. What did they do with them? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Andrea Blum, the former chef at \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Art Center\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipper\">kippered\u003c/a> some. David Johnson, my next door neighbor, who runs the \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> nearby, is smoking them for herring salad sandwiches. For the now-cancelled Sausalito herring festival, he had planned to make a herring paella. My neighbor Maude Bradley is also a chef. She took a bag home and made herring in ginger miso and poached herring with garlic, leeks, and olives. Her favorite was Super Bowl snacks of crispy fried salt-and-pepper herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What about your cats? Did they get any herring treats? Can you use the scraps to catch other fish? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> My fat little cats like unhealthy, junk-cat food. So I keep the herring raw (heads, guts, blood lines, etc), grind it up, and slip it into their wet food. Over time, I want to incorporate more and more until they are eating raw, local seafood scraps and not the junk food they love so much now. I also save heads and other parts I don't eat to use for bait when I'm out fishing for stripers or ling cod, or to use to bait my crab pot. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/77307/bay-areas-herring-run-is-on-go-hyperlocal-in-your-seafood-eating","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_376","bayareabites_10488","bayareabites_529","bayareabites_13045","bayareabites_10840"],"featImg":"bayareabites_77810","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_59301":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_59301","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"59301","score":null,"sort":[1364857569000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"eat-fish-and-prosper","title":"Eat Fish And Prosper?","publishDate":1364857569,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/sablefish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/sablefish-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Sablefish, anyone? This fish is rich in omega-3s, which have been tied to lots of health benefits. Photo: Artizone/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59305\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sablefish, anyone? This fish is rich in omega-3s, which have been tied to lots of health benefits. Photo: Artizone/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Audrey Carlsen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/01/175721083/eat-fish-and-prosper\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all heard that eating fish is good for us. Regularly eating fish has been linked to a host of health benefits – for our \u003ca href=\"http://www.heart.org/HEARTORG/GettingHealthy/NutritionCenter/Fish-101_UCM_305986_Article.jsp\">hearts\u003c/a>, our \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2011/03/16/134561890/heres-fish-oil-in-your-eye\">eyes\u003c/a>, and our \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/12/28/144387007/is-there-really-such-a-thing-as-brain-food\">brains\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now here's some more good news: A study published Monday in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em> suggests that eating oily fish once or twice a week could maybe – just maybe — add a few years to your life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oily fish like salmon, trout and herring are, of course, a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential to numerous bodily functions. Researchers at Harvard School of Public Health and the University of Washington wanted to know how eating fish high in omega-3s affected health. So over the course of 16 years, they monitored a group of almost 2,700 healthy adults aged 65 years or older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But unlike most studies that have looked at the question, the researchers didn't want to rely on study subjects to accurately recall what they ate, so they measured blood levels of omega-3s instead. And since they were interested in dietary intake only, they excluded participants who took fish oil supplements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After controlling for factors like age, sex and lifestyle, the researchers found that, on average, adults with the highest blood levels of omega-3 fatty acids lived 2.2 years longer. In particular, these adults had a 35 percent lower risk of dying from cardiovascular disease – which is in line with other studies that have tied omega-3s to cardiovascular benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Higher levels of fatty acids were most strongly associated with decreased risk of coronary heart disease and stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Omega-3 fatty acids are very unique in that, at very small levels in the diet, they have pretty powerful effects on a range of body functions,\" says Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/dariush-mozaffarian/\">Dariush Mozaffarian\u003c/a>, lead author of the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Mozaffarian, the main reason why omega-3s are important is because of their role in building cell membranes. \"Our cell membranes are 95 percent fat,\" he explains. \"If we didn't have fatty acids, we wouldn't have cells.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omega-3s can stabilize the function of heart cells, says Mozaffarian. They can also alter the way that cells interact with each other and even affect gene function.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the study was not a randomized trial, the findings don't actually prove that higher levels of omega-3s are responsible for the observed health benefits. \"There still could be ... some mysterious factor that is unknown,\" Mozaffarian acknowledges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Mozaffarian recommends that people, especially those over 65, make an effort to include fish in their diets. \"You get the most bang for your buck\" by eating one to two servings of fatty fish per week, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, consuming more than two servings of fish per week doesn't appear to increase blood levels of omega-3s much further. This means that, as long as you eat fish regularly, it's probably unnecessary to take additional fish oil supplements, says Mozaffarian. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In a 16-year study, adults age 65 and older who ate fish regularly were observed to live longer and were less likely to die of cardiovascular disease. It's the latest finding to bolster doctors' recommendations that people should eat one to two servings of fatty fish per week.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1364857569,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":540},"headData":{"title":"Eat Fish And Prosper? | KQED","description":"In a 16-year study, adults age 65 and older who ate fish regularly were observed to live longer and were less likely to die of cardiovascular disease. It's the latest finding to bolster doctors' recommendations that people should eat one to two servings of fatty fish per week.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"59301 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=59301","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/01/eat-fish-and-prosper/","disqusTitle":"Eat Fish And Prosper?","nprByline":"Audrey Carlsen","nprStoryId":"175721083","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=175721083&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/01/175721083/eat-fish-and-prosper?ft=3&f=175721083","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 01 Apr 2013 17:28:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 01 Apr 2013 17:28:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 01 Apr 2013 17:28:36 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/59301/eat-fish-and-prosper","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/sablefish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/sablefish-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Sablefish, anyone? This fish is rich in omega-3s, which have been tied to lots of health benefits. Photo: Artizone/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59305\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sablefish, anyone? This fish is rich in omega-3s, which have been tied to lots of health benefits. Photo: Artizone/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Audrey Carlsen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/01/175721083/eat-fish-and-prosper\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all heard that eating fish is good for us. Regularly eating fish has been linked to a host of health benefits – for our \u003ca href=\"http://www.heart.org/HEARTORG/GettingHealthy/NutritionCenter/Fish-101_UCM_305986_Article.jsp\">hearts\u003c/a>, our \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2011/03/16/134561890/heres-fish-oil-in-your-eye\">eyes\u003c/a>, and our \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/12/28/144387007/is-there-really-such-a-thing-as-brain-food\">brains\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now here's some more good news: A study published Monday in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em> suggests that eating oily fish once or twice a week could maybe – just maybe — add a few years to your life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oily fish like salmon, trout and herring are, of course, a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential to numerous bodily functions. Researchers at Harvard School of Public Health and the University of Washington wanted to know how eating fish high in omega-3s affected health. So over the course of 16 years, they monitored a group of almost 2,700 healthy adults aged 65 years or older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But unlike most studies that have looked at the question, the researchers didn't want to rely on study subjects to accurately recall what they ate, so they measured blood levels of omega-3s instead. And since they were interested in dietary intake only, they excluded participants who took fish oil supplements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After controlling for factors like age, sex and lifestyle, the researchers found that, on average, adults with the highest blood levels of omega-3 fatty acids lived 2.2 years longer. In particular, these adults had a 35 percent lower risk of dying from cardiovascular disease – which is in line with other studies that have tied omega-3s to cardiovascular benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Higher levels of fatty acids were most strongly associated with decreased risk of coronary heart disease and stroke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Omega-3 fatty acids are very unique in that, at very small levels in the diet, they have pretty powerful effects on a range of body functions,\" says Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/dariush-mozaffarian/\">Dariush Mozaffarian\u003c/a>, lead author of the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Mozaffarian, the main reason why omega-3s are important is because of their role in building cell membranes. \"Our cell membranes are 95 percent fat,\" he explains. \"If we didn't have fatty acids, we wouldn't have cells.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omega-3s can stabilize the function of heart cells, says Mozaffarian. They can also alter the way that cells interact with each other and even affect gene function.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the study was not a randomized trial, the findings don't actually prove that higher levels of omega-3s are responsible for the observed health benefits. \"There still could be ... some mysterious factor that is unknown,\" Mozaffarian acknowledges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, Mozaffarian recommends that people, especially those over 65, make an effort to include fish in their diets. \"You get the most bang for your buck\" by eating one to two servings of fatty fish per week, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, consuming more than two servings of fish per week doesn't appear to increase blood levels of omega-3s much further. This means that, as long as you eat fish regularly, it's probably unnecessary to take additional fish oil supplements, says Mozaffarian. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/59301/eat-fish-and-prosper","authors":["byline_bayareabites_59301"],"categories":["bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_11476","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_11477","bayareabites_529","bayareabites_11103","bayareabites_80","bayareabites_11475"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_57860":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_57860","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"57860","score":null,"sort":[1362840859000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"russ-daughters-reflections-and-recipes-from-the-house-that-herring-built","title":"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built","publishDate":1362840859,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1363918471,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":41,"wordCount":2214},"headData":{"title":"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built | KQED","description":"What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"57860 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=57860","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/09/russ-daughters-reflections-and-recipes-from-the-house-that-herring-built/","disqusTitle":"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built","path":"/bayareabites/57860/russ-daughters-reflections-and-recipes-from-the-house-that-herring-built","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/57860/russ-daughters-reflections-and-recipes-from-the-house-that-herring-built","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_10831","bayareabites_1958","bayareabites_11355","bayareabites_8553","bayareabites_529","bayareabites_11372","bayareabites_10171","bayareabites_3662","bayareabites_11356","bayareabites_11357","bayareabites_11358"],"featImg":"bayareabites_58236","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_781":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_781","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"781","score":null,"sort":[1194916920000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"san-francisco-oil-spill-our-local-fishing-industry","title":"San Francisco Oil Spill & Our Local Fishing Industry","publishDate":1194916920,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/91132404@N00/sets/72157603027462407/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/OilSpillCautionTape-744582.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Stephanie reported on Sunday, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/11/no-crab-for-christmas.jsp\">the largest casualty to our food chain due to the November 7 San Francisco Oil Spill seems to be the Dungeness Crab season\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As each day passes, more information is learned about the effects of the oil spill. While the focus of the fishing disaster has been on the Dungeness crab -- one of the Bay Area's most well known harvests of the year -- the Bay Area also depends on local waters for many other seafood crops. Most notably during this time of year the Bay Area also harvests:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mackerel\u003cbr> Salmon\u003cbr> Sardines\u003cbr> Oysters\u003cbr> Herring\u003cbr> Squid\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters were one of the early victims of this oil spill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once oil drifted to the Pt. Reyes National Seashore, it arrived at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://drakesbayfamilyfarms.com/products/oysters.html\">Drake's Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, an oyster farm that provides oysters to many Bay Area customers. Oysters, along with other types of shellfish, eat by filtering water. When that water is contaminated, the shellfish goes bad and is not fit for human consumption. \"If we lose that part of the food chain, we'll lose the next in line,\" says Kathy Fosmark, the Co-Chairman of the Alliance of Communities for Sustainable Fisheries, referring to bait fish and krill. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/news/ci_7442737?nclick_check=1\">According to the San Jose Mercury-News, Drake's Bay Oyster Company has temporarily closed due to oil contamination\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I spoke to Ms. Fosmark and her husband, Steve Fosmark -- an owner/operator and fisherman from Monterey County, on Monday afternoon. \"From what I am hearing, this is going to be catastrophic,\" stated Mr. Fosmark.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Fishermen are coming down on the lean side of a salmon year. A lot of the people who salmon fish then do crab,\" said Ms. Fosmark, \"This is the last thing that they need.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herring is the San Francisco Bay's only commercially fished species. According to one source, a \"possible recommendation to not open in December is being considered.\" Typically, herring season would be open by December and any delay in that season will mean a hit to the pockets of the fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the fishermen don't even know any more than we do at this point. Mr. and Mrs. Fosmark were watching the same news that we have all been watching for the past few days, waiting to hear their fates from press conferences and the Associated Press and local news stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The frustration among fishermen is palpable. While news reports are of successful beach clean-ups and oil wrangling, the fishermen are frustrated that the real story of the effect on the environment and the fishing industry is not being told. \"Excuse me but I must go puke my guts out,\" stated one anonymous email from a fisherman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances that the average Bay Area consumer will notice a difference in their fish counter are slim. \"We get oysters from all up and down the coast,\" said Brian from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fodors.com/world/north%20america/usa/california/san%20francisco/entity_141489.html\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> on Monday. He went on to say that they had to change their source from Drake's Bay to other oyster companies from farther afield this week. \"But we're always going to have oysters.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I selfishly asked about the local anchovies and sardines, as they are my most common purchase from Swan Oyster Depot. Brian told me, \"the anchovies and sardines come from the Monterey area, and as far as I know that hasn't been affected.\" Swan's buyers will purchase Dungeness crab from Oregon until the local harvest starts to come in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main lesson of the day is that more will be revealed. At this point, we know very little, but the chances that this oil spill could prove catastrophic for local fishermen are high. The main thing that we can do is to keep on top of the story, and support local fishermen with our dollars when they are able to bring healthy, abundant fish to our fish counters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Updated, 11/13, 3:00 pm: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Governor has suspended fishing and crabbing until December 1 at the earliest. From the \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/11/13/BAK7TBM6O.DTL&tsp=1\">Chronicle article:\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger issued an executive order late this morning suspending all fishing and crabbing for human consumption in areas affected by the Cosco Busan fuel spill until at least Dec. 1. The ban includes all of San Francisco Bay, along with affected shorelines, coastlines and waters of San Francisco, Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, San Mateo, Solano and Sonoma counties.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1194916920,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":737},"headData":{"title":"San Francisco Oil Spill & Our Local Fishing Industry | KQED","description":"As Stephanie reported on Sunday, the largest casualty to our food chain due to the November 7 San Francisco Oil Spill seems to be the Dungeness Crab season. As each day passes, more information is learned about the effects of the oil spill. While the focus of the fishing disaster has been on the Dungeness","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"781 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/11/12/san-francisco-oil-spill-our-local-fishing-industry/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/11/12/san-francisco-oil-spill-our-local-fishing-industry/","disqusTitle":"San Francisco Oil Spill & Our Local Fishing Industry","path":"/bayareabites/781/san-francisco-oil-spill-our-local-fishing-industry","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/91132404@N00/sets/72157603027462407/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/OilSpillCautionTape-744582.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Stephanie reported on Sunday, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/11/no-crab-for-christmas.jsp\">the largest casualty to our food chain due to the November 7 San Francisco Oil Spill seems to be the Dungeness Crab season\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As each day passes, more information is learned about the effects of the oil spill. While the focus of the fishing disaster has been on the Dungeness crab -- one of the Bay Area's most well known harvests of the year -- the Bay Area also depends on local waters for many other seafood crops. Most notably during this time of year the Bay Area also harvests:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mackerel\u003cbr> Salmon\u003cbr> Sardines\u003cbr> Oysters\u003cbr> Herring\u003cbr> Squid\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters were one of the early victims of this oil spill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once oil drifted to the Pt. Reyes National Seashore, it arrived at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://drakesbayfamilyfarms.com/products/oysters.html\">Drake's Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, an oyster farm that provides oysters to many Bay Area customers. Oysters, along with other types of shellfish, eat by filtering water. When that water is contaminated, the shellfish goes bad and is not fit for human consumption. \"If we lose that part of the food chain, we'll lose the next in line,\" says Kathy Fosmark, the Co-Chairman of the Alliance of Communities for Sustainable Fisheries, referring to bait fish and krill. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/news/ci_7442737?nclick_check=1\">According to the San Jose Mercury-News, Drake's Bay Oyster Company has temporarily closed due to oil contamination\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I spoke to Ms. Fosmark and her husband, Steve Fosmark -- an owner/operator and fisherman from Monterey County, on Monday afternoon. \"From what I am hearing, this is going to be catastrophic,\" stated Mr. Fosmark.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Fishermen are coming down on the lean side of a salmon year. A lot of the people who salmon fish then do crab,\" said Ms. Fosmark, \"This is the last thing that they need.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herring is the San Francisco Bay's only commercially fished species. According to one source, a \"possible recommendation to not open in December is being considered.\" Typically, herring season would be open by December and any delay in that season will mean a hit to the pockets of the fishermen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the fishermen don't even know any more than we do at this point. Mr. and Mrs. Fosmark were watching the same news that we have all been watching for the past few days, waiting to hear their fates from press conferences and the Associated Press and local news stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The frustration among fishermen is palpable. While news reports are of successful beach clean-ups and oil wrangling, the fishermen are frustrated that the real story of the effect on the environment and the fishing industry is not being told. \"Excuse me but I must go puke my guts out,\" stated one anonymous email from a fisherman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances that the average Bay Area consumer will notice a difference in their fish counter are slim. \"We get oysters from all up and down the coast,\" said Brian from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fodors.com/world/north%20america/usa/california/san%20francisco/entity_141489.html\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> on Monday. He went on to say that they had to change their source from Drake's Bay to other oyster companies from farther afield this week. \"But we're always going to have oysters.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I selfishly asked about the local anchovies and sardines, as they are my most common purchase from Swan Oyster Depot. Brian told me, \"the anchovies and sardines come from the Monterey area, and as far as I know that hasn't been affected.\" Swan's buyers will purchase Dungeness crab from Oregon until the local harvest starts to come in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main lesson of the day is that more will be revealed. At this point, we know very little, but the chances that this oil spill could prove catastrophic for local fishermen are high. The main thing that we can do is to keep on top of the story, and support local fishermen with our dollars when they are able to bring healthy, abundant fish to our fish counters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Updated, 11/13, 3:00 pm: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Governor has suspended fishing and crabbing until December 1 at the earliest. From the \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/11/13/BAK7TBM6O.DTL&tsp=1\">Chronicle article:\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger issued an executive order late this morning suspending all fishing and crabbing for human consumption in areas affected by the Cosco Busan fuel spill until at least Dec. 1. The ban includes all of San Francisco Bay, along with affected shorelines, coastlines and waters of San Francisco, Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, San Mateo, Solano and Sonoma counties.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/781/san-francisco-oil-spill-our-local-fishing-industry","authors":["5019"],"tags":["bayareabites_528","bayareabites_526","bayareabites_525","bayareabites_523","bayareabites_529","bayareabites_78","bayareabites_524","bayareabites_80","bayareabites_527"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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