I have a love/hate relationship with eating in Kauai, Maui and Hawaii (the Big Island). I'm leaving Oahu and the smaller islands out of this culinary conundrum as I hear Oahu has a pretty great food scene and I've never been to Molokai, Lanai or the other smaller isles (although I'd love to go). As a mom, I'm always disappointed with the quality of food in family restaurants on the islands. They're full of fried foods and overpriced entrées. I am always left wondering why, in a state full of farms and surrounded by fresh fish, are most of the restaurants so lacking. And then I remember, Hawaiian restaurants are for tourists.

First let's talk about the love: I ADORE all the fresh and ripe tropical fruits that are so hard to come by on the mainland. Pineapple sweetened in the field is a completely different fruit than what you find in your local grocery here. And the papayas! Sweet and fragrant, ripened on the tree as they should be, they are the ultimate tropical treat as far as I'm concerned. Oh wait! I forgot about the apple bananas, which are tied with the papayas on my love list. If you've never had one, they’re worth a trip to Hawaii all by themselves. I am also always impressed with how much better the fish tastes in Hawaii. Restaurants and fish markets on the mainland may officially tell you that their catch of the day was just flown in and is fantastically fresh, but when compared to the local fish you find in Hawaii -- fish that really was caught that day -- you can see, smell and taste the difference. The only problem is going someplace that knows how to prepare that fish. Which leads me to my hate list…

I DETEST the abundance of mediocre restaurants serving overpriced and poorly cooked food. As Hawaii's main industry is tourism, most restaurants seem to cater to a clientele that will come only once or twice, so they focus on island ambiance and big Mai Tai's instead of quality food. As a mom, these places have no appeal, even if they have great views. First of all, the prices are outrageous. $30 for an overcooked fish entrée slathered in butter is bad enough when you’re paying for just you and maybe your partner, but throw in a couple of children and you start eyeing the kids menu, which is usually just the standard fare of chicken fingers, burgers and pasta with butter. Now normally I try to avoid kid menus, but the idea of paying $60 for my kids to pick at their meal brings out the devil on my shoulder -- there he sits, smugly convincing me that French fries served with mac and cheese is a perfectly acceptable and nutritious meal for my growing girls. After all, they can get their vitamins from the pineapple slice in their POG (passion fruit, orange juice, and guava juice cocktail), right? Of course there are a few high-quality restaurants serving fresh seasonal foods, but these are far and few between and a dinner for four can often reach $300.

So last week, when my family and I were in Kauai, I tried to seek out some food love on the Garden Island, Yelping, Chowhounding and asking around to find some alternate food opportunities that would allow me to feed my kids (and myself) a variety of local and fresh food that didn't break the bank. Following is a list of my top picks. After finding an abundance of $39-an-entrée establishments that served food similar to what you'd get at Fisherman’s Wharf, I am hoping to steer you to some better locations for your own island getaway. Unfortunately, those expensive restaurants with overcooked fish covered in macadamia-nut butter often have the best views, so you may find yourself in one or two of them anyway. I admit we spent an evening in a restaurant that was overpriced and barely passable, but only because my daughters wanted to spend their birthday eating Japanese food and the only other sushi restaurant was in a strip mall 20 minutes away. Plus this place made virgin Mai Tais with umbrellas, which really made my daughters smile from ear to ear.

The following list highlights restaurants, markets and one farm that are focused on serving the best fresh local food the Island of Kauai has to offer. If you know of a place not listed, I'd love to hear about it in the comments section.

Koloa Fish Market
5482 Koloa Road, Koloa, HI

The Koloa Fish Market is everything a fresh fish place should be. With a case full of Ahi, Ono and Mahi Mahi, this is an old school market that only sells locally caught fish. I also love that you can purchase their products a few ways.

Raw: When you buy raw fish to cook at home, you will be asked how thick you want the slices, how many people are eating, and how you plan to cook your fish. The fish mongers (is that still a current-day term?) will cut your fish the way you want it. Be sure to get some sides of teriyaki and wasabi cream sauces to go with your fish as they are fantastic.

Poke: There are a variety of pokes available in the refrigerated case (poke is a Hawaiian dish of cubed raw fish, usually Ahi, that has been flavored with various herbs or spices). I tried the Ahi with Sweet Maui Onion, Korean Poke, and Tako Poke (made with octopus). All were great, but the Korean Poke was my favorite as it was slightly spicy yet still mild and perfectly suited for that fresh tuna taste.

Cooked: Each day the market features a couple of cooked fish plates that you can top with their teriyaki, wasabi cream or butter and garlic sauces. You can't go wrong with any of these. The plates are served with cooked rice, macaroni salad (which is pretty good) and a random lettuce salad. And if fish isn't your thing, you can get pork or beef dishes as well.

When you go to the Koloa Fish Market, be sure to avoid the lunch hour if possible as the store is full of hungry locals and the employees try to rush everyone through quickly. They can also get a little testy if you take too long to decide what to order. Also, be sure to grab a bag of cooked edamame and a container of seaweed salad to go with your meal. Both are fresh and cheap.

Hanalei Coffee Roasters / Java Kai
55183-c Kuhio hwy, Hanalei, HI‎

After my various coffee adventures this summer, I was excited to stumble upon a local roaster in Hanalei. The Hanalei Roasting Company does small-batch roasts of locally-grown Kauai coffee (yes, the beans are grown right on the island) and also Kona coffee. Mild and slightly sweet with a rich coffee taste, their beans were really amazing. They also make a variety of lattes and cappuccinos from their home-roasted espresso and have a wide array of teas as well.

The restaurant is also run under the name Java Kai, which is a small breakfast and coffee chain, so if you're in Hanalei, look for the Java Kai sign. This seems to be the go-to breakfast spot for the North shore of Kauai. I can vouch for their banana macadamia nut waffles, which were nutty and fluffy, while their smoothies -- made with apple bananas, fresh papayas, and a hint of ginger -- are sublime. My kids loved the freshly baked bagels and muffins, and the patio was a beautiful and relaxing spot to spend a morning before we hit the beach.

Kauai Coffee
1 Numila Rd, Kalaheo, HI

I am very sad to say I didn't actually go to the island's coffee plantation, but I did try (sort of). My kids and husband weren't all that interested in going -- "Mom, that's boooooorrrrriiiing" was the response I got when I suggested we head over to see it. I also have to admit that once I was sitting in my beach chair, it was almost impossible to get me out of it, especially as I already had locally-grown and roasted coffee sitting in my cupboard from Hanalei Coffee Roasters. That said, I am sorry I missed seeing how coffee is grown and have vowed to get my arse off the beach and to the coffee farm next time I'm there. Also, if you are interested in buying Hawaiian coffee, there's no need to make sure it's fair trade as coffee farms in Hawaii adhere to all US labor laws (it is the United States, after all) and many are unionized, so you can rest assured you're drinking coffee where everyone is getting paid at least minimum wage.

Postcards Café
5-5075 Kuhio Hwy # A, Hanalei, HI‎

Postcards is a very cute organic restaurant in Hanalei. I ate there during our last visit to Kauai, but as we were staying on the south shore this time (and they're located at the north), I wasn't in the area for dinner this visit. When I was there previously, however, their menu was full of locally-raised vegetables and fruits, locally caught fish and Kauai-raised meats. I asked a few locals about it and they all said it was still great. This is also a wonderful place to eat if you are vegetarian or vegan.

Savage Shrimp
Truck on corner of Lawai Road and Poipu Road
Koloa, HI 96756

Sitting on the side of a lonely little road in Poipu Beach is Savage Shrimp. Susan -- the owner, chef and server of this food truck -- offers shrimp three ways. You can go with the Garlic Scampi, the Bahia Scampi (which uses a Brazilian coconut and tomato sauce sauce), or the GrassHoppa Scampi (a spicy concoction). We tried he first two and devoured each and every shrimpy morsel on our very full plates within five minutes flat. Maybe I was really hungry, but at the time I was thinking this may be the best shrimp I've ever had. Served with rice and a salad, the dishes of fresh local shrimp are filling and more than worth the $12.50 price tag.

Monster Tacos
Koloa Rd
Koloa, HI 96756

This food truck is widely admired by many, so I wanted to mention it here. I need to come clean and tell you, however, that I didn't actually get to eat a taco here. When we stopped by for lunch, the very nice lady who cooks for Monster tacos informed us that she only serves her fish with Cajun blackened spices. Although I'm not a big blackened fish fan (and neither are my kids), I wanted to give the tacos a try. I figured I'd quickly order one little taco and then go someplace else to get something for my hungry kids, but after being told it would take 15 - 20 minutes for my one taco, even though only one guy was sitting on a bench ahead of us, we left. That said, people rave about this place, so if you like blackened fish tacos and are on the south shore of Kauai, this is your place.

Sunshine Farmers' Markets
Located in a different town Monday - Saturday of each week

The state of Hawaii runs a series of local farmers' markets on Kauai Monday through Saturday. These are a bit of a scene as they're run almost like tourist attractions where some guy with a bullhorn opens the market at noon to a crowd of people and then let's everyone loose. But don’t be turned off by the management as the fruit and vegetables awaiting you are worth the septuagenarians elbowing each other out at the gate. Full of fresh local fare, you can find exotic fruits that just aren’t available anywhere else at these markets. We purchased some star fruit and dragon fruit, along with fresh and ripe guavas, wing beans, the cherished apple bananas and papayas, along with regular cucumbers, lettuce, spinach and bok choy. As we were staying in a condo, it was fun to bring home our bags and explore the variety of produce available from local Hawaiian farmers.

Lappert's
Various locations throughout Hawaii

What visit to Hawaii would be complete without an enormous scoop of ice cream, and what better place to get it than Lapperts? With frozen yogurt, gelato, sorbet, and ice cream on hand, you can pretty much get whatever frozen treat you’d like -- oh, and they serve coffee too. My favorite flavor was the caramel macadamia nut, although my husband had a few servings of the triple summer berry, which was also mighty nice. Whichever flavor you choose, this is a great way to cool off in that tropical sun.

There are many reasons I love living in the Bay Area. The climate, the food, the people…the proximity to Hawaii. Which brings me to the many reasons I've fallen so hard for Maui. The climate, the food, the people…

I had the good fortune to attend the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival not too long ago, and while I was in town, decided to treat myself to a few extra days of blue skies, ocean breeze, and of course, good eats. The food we discovered on Maui was an interesting mix of hearty no-frills home-cooking, and high-end fine dining.

Without further ado, here's my guide to eating your way through paradise:

1. Da Kitchen ($$)

This bustling local hot spot is hardly a well-kept secret. Locals and tourists alike head to Da Kitchen for heaping portions of solid home-cooking, Hawaiian style. Conveniently located near the Kahului airport (OGG), it is an awesome way to kick off (and cap off) your Maui eatfest -- yes, it was so good, it was not only my first meal on the island, I made sure it was my last as well.

I boarded the plane back to SFO with an order of the Kalbi Ribs to go, and boy, were the folks in the next row jealous. They kept making eyes at my dinner: five big slabs of tender charbroiled short ribs, marinated in a house teriyaki sauce.

Da Kitchen is notorious for their "big boy"-sized servings. The plate lunches are their specialty, all served with two scoops of steamed rice and a side of potato mac salad or green salad. If delicious, savory short ribs aren’t your style, try Da "Lau Lau" Plate (two steamed pieces of cured fatty pork wrapped in taro leaves with a side of lomi salmon), Loco Moco (homemade burger patty topped with two eggs, onions, mushrooms and gravy), or Chicken Katsu (chicken breaded in panko batter, served with a Japanese BBQ sauce).

Da Kitchen
425 Koloa St, Ste 104
Kahului, HI 96732
(808) 871-7782
Open Mon-Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Sat 11 am – 4 pm (call ahead of time, they sometimes close later if it's busy)

2. Ululani's Shave Ice ($)

You can't go to Hawaii without getting a taste of Shave Ice. Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice puts snow cones to shame. Shoot, it even puts most other shave ice places to shame. You may be asking yourself, what's the big deal? It's just ice and syrup, right? Wrong. It is powdery soft, creamy, icy magic, flavored with joy.

There's a reason this spot boasts a perfect 5 star score with 130 reviews and counting on Yelp. The stuff is amazing. The ice is shaved so fine that it actually produces a creamy texture. 95% of Ululani's flavors are made with premium purees, concentrates and/or extracts. These homemade syrups are what set Ululani's shave ice apart from all the rest.

I tried their most popular flavor combo, the Haleakala, and fell in love. ½ coconut and ½ leche (a milky flavor with soft hints of cinnamon and nutmeg), topped with their signature "snow cap" (a sweet condensed milk and cream mixture). To. Die. For.

Read more about David and Ululani Yamashiro's sweet story.

Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice
819 Front St
Lahaina, HI 96761
(360) 609-5678
Open every day, 11 am – 10 pm

3. Lahaina Grill ($$$$)

Lahaina Grill was our favorite splurge meal of the trip. The setting was comfortable and unassuming, the service was on point and friendly, and the food was phenomenal.

Our picks: The Seared Ahi and Hudson Valley Foie Gras appetizer blew us away. It was the best dish of our entire vacation. Who would've thought that this combo could work so well? The richness of the foie melded seamlessly with the luxurious ahi tuna, resulting in the most heavenly bite. The dish was served with a Dalmatia fig compote, sautéed Kula spinach, and finished in a sweet Maui onion duck demi-glace. Perfection.

Also of note was the signature Triple Berry Pie. A tall stack of luscious raspberries, blueberries, and black currants, nestled in a light flaky crust sparkling with turbinado sugar. No room for dessert? A word to the wise, take this home and have it for breakfast! I can't wait to try the recipe.

Lahaina Grill
127 Lahainaluna Road
Lahaina, HI 96761
(808) 667-5117

4. Komoda Bakery ($)

One of the famous sights on Maui is the majestic Haleakala volcano summit. Sunrise at Haleakala is surreal. If you're staying in West Maui like we were, you need to hit the road by 3 am in order to make the trek up 10,000 feet up above sea level where it is actually cold. After watching the sun come up, sitting on top of the clouds, being on top of the world, you feel pretty darn good.

And then, when you realize that T. Komoda Store & Bakery is conveniently located in Makawao, at the base of the mountain, you are truly convinced that all is good in the world. This place is a total gem. Walking in is like entering a time capsule.

People rave about the Cream Puffs. The pastry shell is light and fluffy, and the cream filling is more like a vanilla custard rather than whipped cream or pastry cream. My favorite though, was the guava jam-filled Malasada Donut, sparkling with sugar. And the Stick Donut. Yeah, you heard me.

T. Komoda Store & Bakery
3674 Baldwin Avenue
Makawao, HI 96768
(808) 572-7261
Closed Sun & Wed, Open M-T-TH-F, 7 am - 5 pm
Beware, the bakery is closed on Sundays and Wednesdays. We learned this the hard way…all was not lost however, because we subsequently discovered…

5. Rodeo General Store ($)

Located across the street from Komoda Bakery, is this hidden gem. The Rodeo General Store is stocked full of house-made goodies, both savory: Smoked Marlin Dip (so so good), Kalamata Olive Hummus, Carrot Cashew Pate; and sweet: Lilikoi Tapioca, Raw Chia Vanilla "Custed", Gogi Brown Rice Pudding, Maclava (macadamia nuts + baklava = swoon).

The flavor combos are creative, fresh, and slant on the hippie-healthy side. Grab some pita chips and some of their awesome dips, and you've got yourself a beach picnic.

Rodeo General Store
3661 Baldwin Ave
Makawao, HI 96768
(808) 572-1868

6. Merriman's Kapalua ($$$$)

Speaking of beaches, nothing beats the view at Merriman's, and they know it. This classy waterfront establishment is beautifully designed to bring the outside in. Essentially, it is a restaurant without walls, with floor to ceiling windows on all sides. On pleasant evenings, enjoy a postcard perfect sunset outside on the patio, with one of the best pina coladas on the island.

Chef Peter Merriman has been at the forefront of Hawaii's local sustainability movement for over 20 years now, and his menu features an impressive array of Hawaii regional cuisine sourced from local farmers, producers, and ranchers.

Our favorite dish was the Pan Roasted Diver Sea Scallops with applewood-smoked bacon, creamed Kula corn, Anuhea asparagus, and tarragon. Actually the Creamed Kula Corn by itself was the show-stopper of the evening.

Did you know that Maui produces some of the sweetest corn on Earth? This is actually a neat fact…there are a number of widely varying microclimates on the island, ranging from the hot and sunny coasts, to humid jungle, to the cool, dry climates of what is called "upcountry." This range of climates allows for a wide range of produce to be farmed.

The region called Kula, full of soil blessed with nutrient-rich volcanic ash, is prime land for growing corn. Hence, acres upon acres of corn fields, far as the eye can see, stretching along the highway -- completely unexpected and disorienting.

Merriman's sources a lot of Kula corn. Mmmm…the stuff is so good, you want to bathe in it.

Merriman's Kapalua
1 Bay Club Place
Lahaina, HI 96761
(808) 669-6400

7. The Banyan Tree ($$$$)

From the interesting conversations I had with local chefs and food fiends, it seems as if Hawaii has just started to ride the wave of the local/sustainable movement that we know so well here in San Francisco. Because it’s just starting to gain popularity, it still has a shiny, new, feel to it all. It was great to see people so jazzed about hydroponics, and excited about planting home gardens -- even "resort" gardens, like the ones Chef Ryan Urig, of The Banyan Tree, built right on the grounds of The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua.

The Banyan Tree is located inside the resort grounds, and just a stone-throw away from its front steps, next to the stunning hotel pool, is a legitimate herb garden, flourishing with things like grapefruit mint and Thai basil, free for guests to walk through and admire (and pluck a garnish for their cocktail if they so wished). Further behind the scenes is an impressive hydroponic farming system in the works, as well as a large composting operation. Cool stuff.

The chefs not only farm, they cook pretty darn well too. Favorite tastes included an appetizer duo of Abalone, served with crispy Brussels sprouts, lamb bacon and dates, and Watermelon Salad, with fresh horseradish and a jelly-like orb filled with watermelon juice that bursts in your mouth when you eat it. Also loved the Crispy Moi (a traditional Hawaiian fish that used to be served to royalty) with English Pea Risotto, and the Grilled Lamb Loin with Lentil Dahl and Raita was perfectly cooked and seasoned well.

The Banyan Tree
1 Ritz-Carlton Dr
The Ritz-Carlton Hotel
Kapalua, HI 96767
(808) 669-6200
Open Tue-Sat 5:30 pm - 9:30 pm

8. Spam Masubi

A Maui Top Eats list wouldn't be complete without mention of this classic Hawaiian snack. Spam Masubi is fried spam over sushi rice, wrapped with seaweed into a neat little, hand-held burst of carb and fatty meat energy. It's what you see moms feeding their kiddies at the airport to tide them over (a bit more substantial than Cheerios, no?); it's what you see construction workers eating in the morning for an on-the-go breakfast; it's what you see my fiancé grabbing from the shelves of delis and general stores every chance he gets because he knows I won't let him eat Spam so freely back on mainland.

9. Old Lahaina Luau ($$$$)

When in Rome, right? I couldn't leave Hawaii without experiencing a real luau! Every single travel guide, concierge, and local pointed to one place as the best: The Old Lahaina Luau.

Tickets are pricey, and sure, you feel like every tourist on the island is there with you, but man oh man, is it worth it. What a party. Unlimited tropical cocktails, an endless buffet of traditional luau fare like Polynesian Baked Mahi Mahi, Pulehu Steak, Lomi Lomi Salmon, Ahi Poke, Poi Rolls made with mashed purple taro, and guava butter, and…drumroll please…Kalua Pua'a, pork roasted underground in a traditional imu. Pork. So good.

The staff are total pros as well, and even with nightly sold-out shows for 500 guests, the evening runs smooth as cocoa butter. You get the royal Hawaiian treatment, watch the sun set dreamily into the ocean, sit under the stars, and enjoy a first class show of beautiful dancers, shakin' what their momma gave 'em.

If there is one touristy thing you do, make this it.

Old Lahaina Luau
1251 Front St
Lahaina, HI 96761
(808) 667-1998

10. Pineapple Express ($$)

Juicy, nectar-sweet, Maui Gold Pineapples. If your entire trip to Maui was embodied into one single flavor, this would be it.

Wandering around Lahaina on our last day, we stumbled upon Take Home Maui, Inc., a shipping company that specializes in sending gourmet goods like Maui Gold pineapples, sweet Maui onions, even coconut-grams (beats a postcard any day), back to mainland.

Nothing like a case of the sweetest pineapples ever to make your coworkers/family/friends not hate you for leaving them behind while you frolicked in the tropical sun all day. While you're at it, get an extra case. You'll need it to ease yourself through the imminent island withdrawal you'll be experiencing when you leave this paradise.

Take Home Maui, Inc.
121 Dickenson St.
Lahaina, HI 96761
808-661-8067

Well that wraps it up! A hui hou, Maui! Until we meet again...

A chilly Spring has me longing for a tropical vacation. One way to get a little taste of the islands in our own backyard is to dine at Roy's. Chef Roy Yamaguchi is one of the most influential and well-respected Hawaiian chefs. His style of fusion cuisine combines Asian, French and Hawaiian ingredients and techniques. He is Hawaii's first James Beard award-winner and this year his restaurants are celebrating their 20th year with special dinners.

Tomorrow's 20th anniversary dinner takes place at the San Francisco Roy's, with Roy at the helm. Local and Hawaiian ingredients will be featured with a particular emphasis on sustainable seafood and a portion of proceeds will go to Grow for Good, a national initiative dedicated to supporting local farms and encouraging sustainable agriculture.

amuse buche
Shiro-Shoyu Marinated Kona Kampachi "Nigiri"--sustainable princess conch, tri-color tobiko & Kumamoto oysters--Perrier Jouet Grand Brut

first course
Kona Lobster Ceviche--California avocado and halibut turtle shell, --organic watermelon radish, Cara Cara oranges
Jacob's Creek Riesling

second course
Organic Sausalito Springs Watercress & Red Kaiware Sprout Salad
goat cheese, Sparrow Lane Napa walnut vinaigrette --Brancott Sauvignon Blanc

third course
Japanese Wagyu Topped Niman Ranch Top Sirloin--Delta asparagus, red Irish potatoes, Sebastopol mushrooms
Jacob's Creek Reserve Shiraz

fourth course
Hawaiian Vanilla & Rum Infused "Baba"--Berkeley Farms sweet cream--Sandeman
Tawny 20 Year Port

What: Roy's 20th Anniversary Dinner
Cost: Tickets are $100 (excludes tax & gratuity)
When: Thursday April 10th, Seating from 5:00 to 9:30 pm
Where: Roy's is located at 575 Mission Street in San Francisco
More: The evening will also include performance by Hawaiian dancers and Patrick Landeza
How: To make your reservation for this special event, please call 415.777.0277

Another sweet event, literally, is a pairing of wine and chocolate at local chocolate shop, Cocoa Bella.

Head over to Cocoa Bella Chocolates on Union Street for the first Wine and Chocolate Soire. They'll be offering a six-piece tasting of favorite American and European chocolates paired with a 3-glass selection of sparkling and dessert wines. The staff will be on hand to discuss how to match up your favorite bonbons with port, Madeira, and other after-dinner drinks. Each attendee will go home with a 2-piece box of complimentary chocolates chosen from the evening's special selection.

Space is limited, so make your reservations now. Reserved tickets can be paid for at the door. Some additional tickets may be available on the night of the event, but advance reservations are encouraged to ensure your space at this entertaining and informative event.

What: Wine & Chocolate Soiree
Cost: $40 per person
When: Thursday, April 10, 2008, 7 PM - 9 PM
Where: Cocoa Bella Chocolates, 2102 Union St at Webster, San Francisco
More: Includes 6-piece chocolate tasting, 3 glasses of selected wines, and complimentary 2-piece chocolate box
How: For reservations, call (415) 931-6213 or email cocoabellachocolates@yahoo.com
Additional tickets may be available at the door

Our first Hawaiian meal -- aside from that pineapple-drenched shave ice we treated ourselves to after hiking to the top of Diamond Head in serious heat -- was at the Saveur-recommended Side Street Inn on Hopaka Street in Honolulu.

Determined to try as much as we could that was unknown to us, we ordered about eight dishes between the two of us. When we asked for the ika, our waitress hesitated. "This is dried and charbroiled squid," she explained, totally convinced that haoles wouldn't be able to handle it. Bring. It. ON.

The dish came and, as you can see above, this is not your typical calamari. The strips of squid were served with a soy mayonnaise as a dipping sauce, which they really didn't need since all it did was up the saltiness of the already well-seasoned squid. As we thoughtfully gnawed through strip after strip of the squid -- a workout our jaws definitely felt the next morning -- my husband decided, "This is squid jerky!" And so it was. I have to say, I wouldn't mind having a packet of ika with me on my next hike. It was briny and chewy but strangely satisfying. Even more satisfying was our waitress' surprised but pleased look when she cleared away our empty plate.

Another plate that was nearly licked completely clean was the aku poke. Slathered to a silken sheen with sesame oil, the dense gobbets of ruby-fleshed aku were dressed with bright green threads of lime kohu seaweed, crushed kukui nuts (inamona), and a crunchy blend of local salt and minced red pepper that happily set our mouths aflame. Aku is a kind of Hawaiian tuna, also known as skipjack, katsuo, or striped tuna. It was the first and best poke I was to taste on the islands.

Side Street Inn
1225 Hopaka Street
Honolulu, HI
808.591.0253