Jalisco Heaven: Two Mexican Restaurants Off the Beaten Boulevard in East Oakland
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Westerman","firstName":"Kim","lastName":"Westerman","slug":"kimwesterman","email":"kim.westerman@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kim Westerman has been writing about food and wine for most of her adult life. Originally from North Carolina, she moved to Berkeley in 2006 to pursue the California dream, which, it turns out, is all it’s cracked up to be. She’s a farmers' market junkie, a lover of all things tomato, and Champagne-obsessed. She loves to cook with her kids, eight and three, and she makes frequent pilgrimages to International Boulevard in search of her next favorite Mexican dish. She spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about food and wine pairing, often starting with the wine and working backwards when planning menus. She is a Level I Sommelier and a Licensed Q-Grader. Her work has appeared in KQED's Bay Area Bites, Forbes.com, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Table, Fodor’s Travel Guides, and lots of other publications. You can follow Kim on Twitter and Instagram @throughtraveler.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Westerman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kimwesterman"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_85095":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_85095","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"85095","score":null,"sort":[1406129771000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"jalisco-heaven-two-mexican-restaurants-off-the-beaten-boulevard-in-east-oakland","title":"Jalisco Heaven: Two Mexican Restaurants Off the Beaten Boulevard in East Oakland","publishDate":1406129771,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cover1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cover1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cesar Chavez Park on Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85108\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cesar Chavez Park on Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland, an alternative to International Boulevard's restaurant row, is home to two of the Bay Area's top spots for Jalisco-style food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The moment I first tucked in to a bowl of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozole\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>pozole\u003c/em>\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-campos-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Taqueria Campos\u003c/a>, an unassuming spot next to Cesar Chavez Park in East Oakland, I felt the weight of history, imagining the generations of Campos women who must’ve taught Ana Maria and her sister, Margarita, how to perfect this classic dish. But no, according to Ana, she and her sister taught each other how to cook. “We didn’t know the first thing about cooking when we started out,” Campos explained, laughing. “And we practiced every day for a long time until we got it right.” So much for my theories about how great restaurants are born. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tlapeno1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tlapeno1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pozole at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85116\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pozole at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In this case, perfection begins with broth. Slow-cooked pork bones (sometimes including pig head) form the base, and Ana leaves enough fat to infuse each bite of hominy with \u003cem>ancho\u003c/em> and \u003cem>guajillo\u003c/em> chile flavor. If this sounds—and tastes—simple, it’s not. There’s a lot of balancing to be done, between hominy and pork meat, broth and chile. The end result, in capable hands, is a delicate, smoky, chewy, fatty marvel. Garnishes are traditional, of course: diced onions, cilantro, lime, and a few fresh-fried tostadas for dunking or soaking, depending on your druthers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another destination soup here is \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caldo_tlalpe%C3%B1o\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>caldo tlapeño\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a chicken, chickpea and vegetable soup rendered spicy by the addition of \u003cem>chipotle\u003c/em> chiles to the long-simmered chicken broth. Big chunks of carrot and zucchini help ease the burn, as do thick homemade tortillas, grilled to order (three per bowl). It’s served with rice, but doesn’t really need the extra heft. Just add a little diced onion, a lot of cilantro, and some lime to brighten it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/pozole1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/pozole1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caldo tlapeño at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85110\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caldo tlapeño at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not in the mood for soup? Equally compelling are the Campos sisters’ tacos of \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>, \u003cem>cabeza\u003c/em> and \u003cem>carne al pastor\u003c/em>. Of these, my favorites are the \u003cem>cabeza\u003c/em>, meltingly tender beef cheeks and adjacent meat from the head of the cow, and the \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em>, grilled strip steak with a slightly crisp exterior and well-done but soft interior. Pay the extra $.75 for homemade tortillas, so much better than the packaged version. And ask Ana for some of her green sauce, a mild, tomatillo-based salsa that goes nicely with both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada taco at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85112\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada taco at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cabeza1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cabeza1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cabeza taco at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85119\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cabeza taco at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And if there were such a thing as a destination \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicharr%C3%B3n\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>chicharrones\u003c/em>\u003c/a> restaurant, this would be it. The Campos sisters don’t make these bits of fried pork skin every day, but when they do, they are served, free, alongside the chips and salsa, and hit the right spot between crunchy and meltingly fatty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/chicharrones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/chicharrones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chicharrones at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85122\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicharrones at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beverages are limited to homemade \u003cem>horchata\u003c/em> and two rotating flavors of \u003cem>aguas frescas\u003c/em>, none of which is too sweet. The pineapple agua fresca is mostly pulpy fruit, only slightly muted with water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ana1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ana1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ana Maria Campos serves up strawberry agua fresca\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85111\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ana Maria Campos serves up strawberry agua fresca\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A few blocks down Foothill, on the opposite side of the street, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-taco-zamorano-restaurant-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">El Taco Zamorano\u003c/a>, a cave-like space that requires your eyes to adjust to the low light. Owned by Emma Guzman and quietly in business for 33 years, El Zamorano is a solid choice for pan-Mexican food. While you can get everything from mariscos cocktails to burritos, Jalisco is the region best represented by the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/zamorano1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/zamorano1000.jpg\" alt=\"The dining room, with mural, at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining room, with mural, at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We tried a little from every column on the several-page menu, and the clear winners were the tacos, especially the \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em> and \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>. The beef was lightly seared and topped with diced white onion and cilantro, and the pork was soft, in traditional Jalisco-highlands style, as opposed to crispy, the preferred style in other parts of Mexico. (It’s odd that Zamorano is the name of a town famous for crispy \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>, but so be it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada_carnitas1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada_carnitas1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada and carnitas tacos at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85130\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada and carnitas tacos at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The same \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em> appears as a dinner plate, but in this case, instead of being shredded for tacos, the meat is left in large chunks for you to pull apart. The fat is left on, which, in my book, is the right decision. This plate comes with chunky guacamole, a simple version with just tomato, onion and cilantro, and a squeeze of lime, and the brightest, freshest green avocado meat possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/carnitas_dinner1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/carnitas_dinner1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carnitas dinner special at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carnitas dinner special at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zamorano’s combination plates are a good value. The \u003cem>chile relleno\u003c/em> and enchilada plate is enough for two people—the eggy relleno fried to brown and covered in tomato sauce and cheese, and the enchilada smothered in chile verde, medium-spicy—and they meld together with the rice and beans to cover almost every inch of a large oval platter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85109\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/combo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/combo1000.jpg\" alt=\"Combination plate: Chile relleno and green chile enchilada\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85109\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Combination plate: Chile relleno and green chile enchilada\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Margaritas are strong, but from a pre-fab mix, so stick to the Mexican-import beers, Negro Modelo and Corona.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On each of three visits, our server was Soco, who’s been working there for more than 20 years. She attests to the care that is evident in the preparation of this food. “I’ve eaten at all the places around here over many years,” she said, “and this kitchen makes some of the most lovingly prepared traditional food I’ve ever had.” I wouldn’t disagree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/soco1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/soco1000.jpg\" alt=\"Long-time server Soca at El Taco Zamorano.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85114\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Long-time server Soco at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-campos-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria Campos\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/Gmhb83\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3659 Foothill Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 510-261-4260\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> 7am-8pm, Thursday-Monday (closed Tuesday and Wednesday)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Price Range:\u003c/strong> $, Cash only \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-taco-zamorano-restaurant-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>El Taco Zamorano\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/D5l1HV\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n4032 Foothill Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 510-536-3146\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> 8am-10pm, Sunday-Friday; 8am-11pm, Saturday\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Price Range:\u003c/strong> $- $$ \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland, an alternative to International Boulevard's restaurant row, is home to two of the Bay Area's top spots for Jalisco-style food.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1406558802,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1023},"headData":{"title":"Jalisco Heaven: Two Mexican Restaurants Off the Beaten Boulevard in East Oakland | KQED","description":"Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland, an alternative to International Boulevard's restaurant row, is home to two of the Bay Area's top spots for Jalisco-style food.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Jalisco Heaven: Two Mexican Restaurants Off the Beaten Boulevard in East Oakland","datePublished":"2014-07-23T15:36:11.000Z","dateModified":"2014-07-28T14:46:42.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"85095 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=85095","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/23/jalisco-heaven-two-mexican-restaurants-off-the-beaten-boulevard-in-east-oakland/","disqusTitle":"Jalisco Heaven: Two Mexican Restaurants Off the Beaten Boulevard in East Oakland","path":"/bayareabites/85095/jalisco-heaven-two-mexican-restaurants-off-the-beaten-boulevard-in-east-oakland","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cover1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cover1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cesar Chavez Park on Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85108\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cesar Chavez Park on Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland, an alternative to International Boulevard's restaurant row, is home to two of the Bay Area's top spots for Jalisco-style food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The moment I first tucked in to a bowl of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozole\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>pozole\u003c/em>\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-campos-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Taqueria Campos\u003c/a>, an unassuming spot next to Cesar Chavez Park in East Oakland, I felt the weight of history, imagining the generations of Campos women who must’ve taught Ana Maria and her sister, Margarita, how to perfect this classic dish. But no, according to Ana, she and her sister taught each other how to cook. “We didn’t know the first thing about cooking when we started out,” Campos explained, laughing. “And we practiced every day for a long time until we got it right.” So much for my theories about how great restaurants are born. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85116\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tlapeno1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tlapeno1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pozole at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85116\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pozole at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In this case, perfection begins with broth. Slow-cooked pork bones (sometimes including pig head) form the base, and Ana leaves enough fat to infuse each bite of hominy with \u003cem>ancho\u003c/em> and \u003cem>guajillo\u003c/em> chile flavor. If this sounds—and tastes—simple, it’s not. There’s a lot of balancing to be done, between hominy and pork meat, broth and chile. The end result, in capable hands, is a delicate, smoky, chewy, fatty marvel. Garnishes are traditional, of course: diced onions, cilantro, lime, and a few fresh-fried tostadas for dunking or soaking, depending on your druthers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another destination soup here is \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caldo_tlalpe%C3%B1o\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>caldo tlapeño\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a chicken, chickpea and vegetable soup rendered spicy by the addition of \u003cem>chipotle\u003c/em> chiles to the long-simmered chicken broth. Big chunks of carrot and zucchini help ease the burn, as do thick homemade tortillas, grilled to order (three per bowl). It’s served with rice, but doesn’t really need the extra heft. Just add a little diced onion, a lot of cilantro, and some lime to brighten it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/pozole1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/pozole1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caldo tlapeño at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85110\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caldo tlapeño at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not in the mood for soup? Equally compelling are the Campos sisters’ tacos of \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>, \u003cem>cabeza\u003c/em> and \u003cem>carne al pastor\u003c/em>. Of these, my favorites are the \u003cem>cabeza\u003c/em>, meltingly tender beef cheeks and adjacent meat from the head of the cow, and the \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em>, grilled strip steak with a slightly crisp exterior and well-done but soft interior. Pay the extra $.75 for homemade tortillas, so much better than the packaged version. And ask Ana for some of her green sauce, a mild, tomatillo-based salsa that goes nicely with both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada taco at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85112\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada taco at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cabeza1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/cabeza1000.jpg\" alt=\"Cabeza taco at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85119\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cabeza taco at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And if there were such a thing as a destination \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicharr%C3%B3n\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>chicharrones\u003c/em>\u003c/a> restaurant, this would be it. The Campos sisters don’t make these bits of fried pork skin every day, but when they do, they are served, free, alongside the chips and salsa, and hit the right spot between crunchy and meltingly fatty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/chicharrones1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/chicharrones1000.jpg\" alt=\"Chicharrones at Taqueria Campos\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85122\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicharrones at Taqueria Campos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beverages are limited to homemade \u003cem>horchata\u003c/em> and two rotating flavors of \u003cem>aguas frescas\u003c/em>, none of which is too sweet. The pineapple agua fresca is mostly pulpy fruit, only slightly muted with water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ana1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ana1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ana Maria Campos serves up strawberry agua fresca\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85111\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ana Maria Campos serves up strawberry agua fresca\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A few blocks down Foothill, on the opposite side of the street, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-taco-zamorano-restaurant-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">El Taco Zamorano\u003c/a>, a cave-like space that requires your eyes to adjust to the low light. Owned by Emma Guzman and quietly in business for 33 years, El Zamorano is a solid choice for pan-Mexican food. While you can get everything from mariscos cocktails to burritos, Jalisco is the region best represented by the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/zamorano1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/zamorano1000.jpg\" alt=\"The dining room, with mural, at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85118\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining room, with mural, at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We tried a little from every column on the several-page menu, and the clear winners were the tacos, especially the \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em> and \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>. The beef was lightly seared and topped with diced white onion and cilantro, and the pork was soft, in traditional Jalisco-highlands style, as opposed to crispy, the preferred style in other parts of Mexico. (It’s odd that Zamorano is the name of a town famous for crispy \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>, but so be it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada_carnitas1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/asada_carnitas1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carne asada and carnitas tacos at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85130\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carne asada and carnitas tacos at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The same \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em> appears as a dinner plate, but in this case, instead of being shredded for tacos, the meat is left in large chunks for you to pull apart. The fat is left on, which, in my book, is the right decision. This plate comes with chunky guacamole, a simple version with just tomato, onion and cilantro, and a squeeze of lime, and the brightest, freshest green avocado meat possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85123\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/carnitas_dinner1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/carnitas_dinner1000.jpg\" alt=\"Carnitas dinner special at El Taco Zamorano\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85123\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carnitas dinner special at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Zamorano’s combination plates are a good value. The \u003cem>chile relleno\u003c/em> and enchilada plate is enough for two people—the eggy relleno fried to brown and covered in tomato sauce and cheese, and the enchilada smothered in chile verde, medium-spicy—and they meld together with the rice and beans to cover almost every inch of a large oval platter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85109\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/combo1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/combo1000.jpg\" alt=\"Combination plate: Chile relleno and green chile enchilada\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85109\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Combination plate: Chile relleno and green chile enchilada\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Margaritas are strong, but from a pre-fab mix, so stick to the Mexican-import beers, Negro Modelo and Corona.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On each of three visits, our server was Soco, who’s been working there for more than 20 years. She attests to the care that is evident in the preparation of this food. “I’ve eaten at all the places around here over many years,” she said, “and this kitchen makes some of the most lovingly prepared traditional food I’ve ever had.” I wouldn’t disagree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/soco1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/soco1000.jpg\" alt=\"Long-time server Soca at El Taco Zamorano.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85114\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Long-time server Soco at El Taco Zamorano\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-campos-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria Campos\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/Gmhb83\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3659 Foothill Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 510-261-4260\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> 7am-8pm, Thursday-Monday (closed Tuesday and Wednesday)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Price Range:\u003c/strong> $, Cash only \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-taco-zamorano-restaurant-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>El Taco Zamorano\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/D5l1HV\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n4032 Foothill Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94601\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 510-536-3146\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> 8am-10pm, Sunday-Friday; 8am-11pm, Saturday\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Price Range:\u003c/strong> $- $$ \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/85095/jalisco-heaven-two-mexican-restaurants-off-the-beaten-boulevard-in-east-oakland","authors":["5575"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_2891","bayareabites_13605","bayareabites_13607","bayareabites_13606","bayareabites_180","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_13604"],"featImg":"bayareabites_85113","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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