Whenever I mention fava beans, it seems someone -- usually a person who has never eaten one -- ends up deadpanning Hannibal Lecter. I'm sure you've heard it, and maybe you're even the dinner-party comic who likes to throw in this quip when some poor bookish vegetable lover like me tries to talk seriously about broad beans. Now I'll admit that Anthony Hopkins seemed alluringly creepy while chatting with Clarice Starling (aka Jodie Foster) in The Silence of the Lambs, but his chilling tale of enjoying beans and a nice Chianti with some poor census taker's liver just doesn't do justice to the fava. I mean, come on, liver with fava beans?

For the last 20 years, the fava bean has been associated with this movie, which is unfair as it's been around for millennia. It was one of the earliest plants to be cultivated in Asia and North Africa, and has done more than its part to keep both ancient and modern people fed and happy. It even had an important role in early democracy, when ancient Greek and Roman voters would submit a white bean for a yes vote, and a black bean for a no vote. Imagine all those hunky scantily clad Greek men (because let's face it, there were no women voting in Ancient Greece) tossing beans in a ceramic pot. Now that's some food history. So the next time someone brings up Hannibal Lecter at a dinner party where you're serving fava beans, mention this interesting fact. Sure, your dinner guests' eyes may glaze over with your nerdy tale, but you'll end the Hannibal Lecter laughter full stop.

But don't eat fava beans because they're historical; eat them because they have a lovely verdant sweetness that is perfect when cooked in olive oil. Or eat them because they are rich in vitamins and minerals. Some researchers think they may even be used as a natural alternative to Viagra. They're not sounding so bad now, are they?

So Why Use Fava's in Ravioli?

My love for fava beans made them a natural choice for a ravioli filling recently, although I didn't realize this when I was planning the menu. I was hosting a pasta party for some friends, which included two people who do not eat meat. I knew I wanted to make ravioli, but because my stock ravioli filling of late has been a short rib ragu, I had to think outside the box. So as I walked the aisles at Berkeley Bowl, I surveyed the piles of fresh vegetables around me seeking ravioli-filling inspiration. And then it hit me, right in the bean aisle. Raviolis made with my favorite seasonal bean pureed with cream and cheese. What could be nicer for a June pasta dinner eaten on the patio with friends?

The raviolis were a hit. The beans pureed texture held up nicely in the ravioli and the addition of cream, ricotta and Parmesan aligned nicely with the fresh pasta dough. Even the meat eaters -- two of whom were avowed fava-bean haters -- said they loved the dish. I decided to believe them as one is a good friend who has a tendency to be brutally honest in a very kind way, so I know she would tell me if she hated my ravioli; and the other is a lovely man who is far too polite to announce his displeasure with a meal, but is sincere enough to just leave whatever he doesn't like on his dish -- and he had seconds.

So if you're looking to delight your friends and family with a seasonal alternative to meat ravioli filling -- one that also includes an interesting history plus may additionally rev up your love life -- look no further than favas. Just please don't eat them with liver.

Note: If you're not up for making raviolis, you can also use this filling as a creamy sauce for regular pasta.

Pureed Fava Bean Ravioli
Makes: Enough for 4-6 people

Ingredients:

2 cups shelled fava beans (just fill up a produce plastic bag with them and you'll have enough)
1/4 cup chopped shallots
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
1/4 - 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese (according to taste)
2 Tbsp whole milk
1 Tbsp chopped basil or mint (optional)
1 batch of homemade pasta dough

Preparation:

1. Prepare pasta dough and refrigerate until ready for use.

2. Shell fava beans from pods. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and then drop the beans in. Simmer for 2 minutes and then remove the beans from the pot and rinse with cold water.

3. Gently remove the outer bean casing from the tender inner bean. I usually just separate one side a bit and then gently squeeze the bean into a bowl. Do this for all the beans.

4. In a medium pan, sauté the chopped shallots in the olive oil for about 2 minutes on medium heat. Add in the fava beans and 2 Tbsp butter and cook until the beans are cooked through. Add in salt to taste.

5. Let beans and shallots cool and then pour them in a chopper along with your heavy cream, milk, ricotta, and some freshly ground black pepper. Puree until smooth.

6. If the puree seems too chunky or thick, add more heavy cream or milk as needed. Add in the Parmesan Cheese and any herbs you're using and then puree further until the mixture is completely smooth has the consistency of thick batter. Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed.

7. Roll out your pasta dough so you have long strips 4 inches wide. Spoon about 1 Tbsp puree 1 1/2 inches apart.

8. Brush egg wash on each side and in the strips between the puree and then place a 2nd pasta dough strip on top. Press down on each side in between raviolis so the pasta dough adheres along all sides of the filling and then cut out your raviolis. I like to use a pizza cutter to do this, but if you have a fancy ravioli cutter, go for it.

9. Boil pasta in salted water for about 3 minutes (or until raviolis are cooked) and then gently remove them from the pot and set in a serving dish.

10. Brown the remaining butter (around 2/3 of a stick) in a sauce pan and then pour on top of the cooked raviolis. Sprinkle on some Parmesan or other good hard Italian cheese and serve. I served my ravioli with roasted baby summer squash, but roasted shitakes or morels would also be great. You can also serve the raviolis on their own.

On Sunday, May 16th, Meals on Wheels of San Francisco will be throwing its 23rd Annual Star Chefs and Vintners Gala at Fort Mason's Festival Pavilion. The gala is a benefit for San Francisco's homebound seniors, and is the organization's largest fundraiser of the year.

Nancy Oakes of Boulevard will be returning for her 7th year as Gala Chef Chair -- it will be her 22nd year participating in the benefit. She will be leading an illustrious line-up of more than 70 of the Bay Area's finest chefs. Who says too many cooks in the kitchen is a bad thing?

Among the chefs participating in this year's gala are: Mourad Lahlou (Aziza), Jeff Banker/Lori Baker (Baker & Banker), Daniel Patterson (Coi), Douglas Keane/Nick Peyton (Cyrus), Jan Birnbaum (Epic Roasthouse), Thomas McNaughton (Flour + Water), Chris Cosentino (Incanto), Staffan Terje (Perbacco), Laurence Jossel (Nopa / Nopalito), Richard Reddington (REDD), Charles Phan (The Slanted Door), and Mark Sullivan (Spruce).

Talk about a culinary dream team, huh?

With so many all-stars on board, the meal will no doubt be stellar. I asked Oakes what it's like organizing such a massive undertaking with so much talent involved. She responded, "First and foremost, we are so fortunate to be in the Bay Area. So many [of our talented chefs] say yes."

Logistically, the evening will begin with an hors d'oeuvre "grazer" and wine reception, featuring creations from more than 30 chef and wineries. Following will be a three-course, sit-down meal. Oakes explained, the chefs have been grouped together to form 8 groups total. Each group will prepare its own menu for its assigned seating area. "The goal is to let the chefs be who they are," she said. "With each group cooking for about 100 people, it's important that they are able to put something out that they are proud of…and of course, to have fun." Chefs with similar cooking styles will be grouped together, and at least one veteran gala chef will be placed on each team.

Also, with more than 75 of California's leading vintners participating in the gala, there will be plenty of wine to pair with all that fantastic food. And in case you're still feeling thirsty, a special cocktail bar manned by beloved bartenders, Scott Beattie (Hangar One), Jon Gasparini (Rye), Scott Baird & Aaron Smith (15 Romolo) and Daniel Hyatt (The Alembic Bar) will serve up classic spirits and exotic concoctions.

The evening will culminate with a lavish dessert reception, featuring sweet treats from Sara Spearin (Dynamo Donuts), Jake Godby (Humphry Slocombe) and Bill Corbett (Coi & Il Cane Rosso), just to name a few.

Let's not forget about the benefit aspect of this whole shindig. Both a live and silent auction will be held, during which guests will have the opportunity to bid on a number of lavish prizes (food, wine, and luxury-themed). Guests will also have the chance to pledge donations to the "Fund-A-Route" campaign, which goes towards funding an entire meal delivery route for the next year. Last year's gala raised a grand total of $1.1 million.

"Providing nourishing meals and supportive services for San Francisco's seniors is of utmost importance during these trying economic times," said Ashley McCumber, Executive Director of Meals On Wheels of San Francisco. "With the generosity of these world-class chefs and wineries, we are able to provide 440,000 meals to seniors in San Francisco."

Tickets are pricey, but if you have deep pockets or know someone who does, encourage them to wine and dine for a good cause.

Individual tickets are priced at $400, with patron levels ranging from $1,500 to $20,000. To reserve tickets or for more information, call 415-343-1280 or visit www.mowsf.org.

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While the menus have yet to be finalized, I'm betting that we can expect to see lots of local spring bounty. Think asparagus, strawberries, baby carrots, fava beans, fresh, light, vibrant flavors. Here's a sneak peek at a dish Chris Cosentino (Incanto) is preparing:

Fava Bean and Strawberry Salad with Pecorino
Recipe courtesy of Chris Cosentino, Executive Chef of Incanto & Co-founder of Boccalone

Serves: 6

Ingredients:
2 cups shelled fresh fava beans [about 2 pounds of favas in their pods]
2 cups strawberries, trimmed and quartered
1 bunch wild rucola or arugula
Pecorino cheese
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher or sea salt, to taste
Coarse ground black pepper, to taste

Preparation:
1. Bring a pot of water to boil, season with salt, blanch the shelled favas for about 1 minute then transfer to an ice bath seasoned with one teaspoon of salt so as not to overcook.
2. Remove the skins of the larger favas and discard, the smaller ones don’t need to be removed as they are not tough or bitter. Place the favas in a mixing bowl, then set aside.
3. Add the strawberries to the fava beans. Season with salt and fresh ground black pepper. Add the rucola or arugula.
4. Dress with a splash of lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil, toss to incorporate all the ingredients. Put on a platter or on individual plates.
5. Using a vegetable peeler, peel curls of pecorino on top and serve.

The return of fava beans, the dinosaur-looking, rather ugly shelling bean, to the market is a sure sign of spring. Fava bean season is ridiculously short, and during fava bean season you will find me in front of the television doing the tedious work to clean the beans as often as I can. Unlike some who find the work to prepare them to not be worth it, I personally find the nutty, sweet, unique flavor of a fresh fava bean to be worth every moment of work.

Favas come in a rather large pod from which they must be released. Once pulled from the outer pod, each bean has an inner pod that is usually peeled off as well (some recipes call for some of the shells to stay on for the bitterness that they impart). Most people remove the inner pod with a quick blanch -- 30 to 60 seconds in boiling water and then dropped into ice water -- however I find it nearly as easy to peel the pods raw with my hand or a small knife. I started this method after reading the Zuni Cafe Cookbook, in which Judy Rodgers tells us that the quick blanch changes the texture of the fava bean.

While I am not sure of the exact yield of the fava bean, casual observation finds the yield to be about 1/2 cup of edible beans per pound.

Fava beans do really well when little is done to adulterate the flavor. "The less you do tho them, the more beautiful they are," says chef Jody Adams. "I feel they are one of those foods that should be treated with almost ritualistic simplicity." Favas can be eaten raw in a salad, sauteed, added to a risotto, pureed, or put into soup among other things. The photo you see above is of a side dish I made this weekend -- I quickly sauteed the peeled favas in olive oil (only 2-3 minutes), added salt, tossed with mint, and then added pecorino romano once the dish had cooled a bit. It was addictively good, and a great addition to an already full table of spring treats.

Favas will soon be widely available at the markets -- I bought my first this weekend from the Star Route Farms booth at the Marin Civic Center market.

If you've never had fava beans, please heed this warning (taken from Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini): "Fava beans should be avoided by anyone taking antidepressents of the MAO-inhibitor type. In addition, the beans can cause sever anemia in a small number of people of Mediterranean origin (and some Africans, Arabs and Asians) who suffer from glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency, an inherited imbalance. One hopes they know who they are before they sit down to your table."

Need more ideas for fava beans?
The Food Section has grilled fava beans.
Lucullian delights has raw fava beans with pecorino.
Exploring the Silver Spoon tells us about fresh fava bean puree.