Pan-fried turnip cakes with served with oyster sauce (Photo Credit: Danielle Tsi)

Lately, I've been enamored with this vintage gem of a book that Hua found on one of his eBay cookbook binges: Dim Sum, by Rhoda Yee.

Dim Sum, by Rhoda Yee

Just one look at the cover and I was in love. How adorable is she? She looks like she could be one of my aunties. Auntie Rhoda, I trust you completely.

Inside the book was even better. It is filled with recipes for all the dim sum dishes I could ever dream of making, with funny anecdotes, helpful glossaries on cooking equipment and Chinese ingredients, instructional diagrams, suggested menu groupings, and best of all, these amazing old-school 1970's era black & white photos.

Amazing

The first recipe that caught my eye was White Turnip Pudding Cake (Lo Bok Go). This is a dish that is near and dear to my heart. Crispy on the outside, creamy and smooth on the inside. The cake is made with Chinese white turnip, and studded with dried shrimp, barbecued pork, and bits of preserved turnip. Scallions and cilantro are also incorporated in the mix and scattered on top for extra fragrance.

The turnip (lo bok) itself tastes like a radish with a sharp, spicy bite to it. When it's cooked, the flavor mellows out and it loses its spiciness, but retains a distinct savory taste. If I had to compare this pudding cake to a Western dish, I would say that it is comparable to potato pancakes.

Paw Paw, big bro, and me

My grandmother used to make Lo Bok Go on special occasions, and it was always such a treat! Better than any that we would ever have in a restaurant -- not sure what her secret was. My mom has her recipe written down somewhere at home, but in the meantime, I decided to give Yee's version a shot.

Lo Bok Go in the making

I started out by finely dicing the turnip and boiling it in chicken broth. Then, stir fried together Chinese dried shrimp, barbecued pork, and turnips that had been preserved in salt and garlic. Scallions and cilantro went into the mix, and then I combined all of it into a batter of cake flour and chicken broth. Into the steamer it all went.

Aluminum steamer

Final verdict? The cake was surprisingly easy to make, and while it wasn't quite as good as my grandma's (not as smooth and light) the flavors were right on. You can eat Lo Bok Go right out of the steamer, but I prefer letting it cool and pan frying it – extra crispy, please.

White Turnip Pudding Cake (Lo Bok Go)

White Turnip Pudding Cake (Lo Bok Go)
Recipe from Rhoda Yee's Dim Sum.

Makes: one 9-inch round cake

Ingredients:
2 ½ cups finely diced Chinese turnip (lo bok) – about ¾ of one large turnip
2 ¼ cups chicken broth
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup dried shrimp
1 cup barbecued pork
2 tablespoons salted turnip, minced (preserved with salt and garlic)
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup green onions, chopped
½ cup cilantro
2 cups Swans Down cake flour (no substitute)

Preparation:

1. Soak dried shrimp for 1 hour, then finely dice after draining.

2. Bring diced turnips, 2 tablespoons oil and 1 cup chicken broth to a boil and simmer for 12-15 minutes or until turnip is soft. Do not drain liquid.

3. Heat wok and add 2 tablespoons oil and stir fry diced shrimp for 1 minute, then add diced pork, salted turnips, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/3 cup each of the green onions and cilantro. Set aside.

4. Mix 2 cups of Swans Down cake flour with 1 ¼ cup of chicken broth until smooth. Add stir fried mixture and the boiled turnip, including the remaining liquid in the pot. Mix well. Pour mixture into 9 inch cake pan.

5. Set cake pan over steam rack in wok. Cover. Bring water to a boil and turn heat to simmer. Steam for ½ hour or longer until cake is set. Sprinkle remaining green onions and cilantro over cake. Cool for at least ½ hour before cutting.

6. Cut into ½-inch thick slices and pan fry with a little oil until the outside is browned and crunchy. Serve immediately with oyster sauce.

Do-ahead Notes: Can be made ahead and frozen. Reheat by thawing first, then cut in thin slices and pan fry.

I'm one of those travelers who loves to get to know a place based on its neighborhoods and food, but I realize not everyone's this way. So during our first few days in Shanghai, I capitalized on my family's jetlag and unfamiliarity with the city and--relying on friend's recommendations and a little research--dragged them around on many a food adventure. Over the next six days we tasted everything from steamed buns to dragon fruit, and visited markets, noodle stands and higher-end restaurants. This is far from an exhaustive list. Instead, it's simply where we found ourselves eating, lounging, and drinking: a whirlwind visual tour in case you ever find yourself in Shanghai or Hong Kong with no clue where to eat. We did a little footwork for you.

SHANGHAI
Food Market
The Chinese don't eat dessert nearly as often as we do in the States. Many folks do tea after meals or a bit of fruit, but routine desserts aren't as common. However, sweet snacks are a different story altogether and markets or street-side stands stock sweet buns or dumplings. At the Food Market on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, my sister and I noticed locals lining up for a late lunch of simple noodles and dumplings, sweet snacks, whole roasted ducks, or breads and baked goods to carry out. Some of the most popular sweets were the red bean paste dumplings, black sesame dumplings, and small rice pudding patties topped with candied fruits. I absolutely loved both sweet dumplings, and found their relatively dainty size and subtle sweetness truly satisfying.

Wang Jia Sha, 805 Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China

M on the Bund
This is, by far, my favorite restaurant in Shanghai. While not the most inexpensive choice, I've never been to a place with such energy and excitement while still maintaining an utterly unpretentious and gracious vibe. Voted “One of the Top 20 restaurants in Asia” last year by the Miele Guide and “The Most Popular Restaurant in Shanghai” by Zagat two years back, M on the Bund is located in the historic 1921 Nissin Shipping Building, and overlooks The Bund, Shanghai’s most famous waterfront destination. The food's a bit tough to pin down: the flavors range from Middle Eastern to Mod Euro, but ultimately come off as really thoughtful, tasty, comforting food. You won't find fancy foam or precious portions. Instead, there are strong cocktails, beautiful salads, perfectly cooked steak and seafood, and beautiful Moroccan vegetarian fare. The roof terrace is vast; diners are seated outside overlooking the water and the teeming nightlife and energy of the Bund, but folks also bring their cocktails out and linger while waiting for their meals. It's all very romantic and intoxicating and almost otherworldly.

7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )
Shanghai 200002 China

T8
T8 has a few kinks to work out with their service and this is another spot where the food is quite pricey, but the atmosphere is beautiful and it’s located in the Xintiandi area, known for food, fashion, and nightlife and perfect for an evening stroll or grabbing a post-dinner cocktail. There is a part of me that thinks T8 takes themselves a bit too seriously, showcasing your bottle of water like it's a fine champagne and crafting teeny, artistic appetizers. However, there's another part of me that loves the candlelit atmosphere with lanterns and bamboo furnishings, a bustling open kitchen and stunning floral arrangements. They bring out incredible warm bread baked in individual popover pans--I liked that, and the entrees were solid. T8 specializes in more contemporary, seasonal European dishes with Asian accents. From the cod with Chinese vegetables to the Wagyu beef burger and sensational fries, it was a nice treat after a long day of sightseeing. Skip the starters and appetizers, go straight to the entrees, and enjoy the atmosphere.

No. 8 Xintiandi North Part Lane 181 Tai Cang Road
Shanghai 200021 China

Kommune
Kommune is the kind of place you'd adopt as your own if you lived in Shanghai. And sure enough, we saw many an expat, quite a few students, and a noticeably large Australian population congregated on the outdoor patio eating sandwiches, salads, fresh juices, pastas, simple entrees, and house baked cookies. Located on Taikang Lu, a bustling artist's enclave peppered with galleries, interesting shops, and numerous cafes and wine bars, this is one likeable joint. Do know that their portions are huge: the incredibly fresh Greek salad was enough for three, and the milkshakes could easily be shared with a few friends. I loved this place. It was a welcome respite from the bustling dim sum lunch joints we’d been frequenting. You can relax here, wasting away an entire afternoon drinking fresh juices or lattes (voted the best in Shanghai) while people-watching or making new international friends.

The Yard, No. 7, 210 Taikang Road
Shanghai, 200025, China

Yuyuan Gardens
The Yuyuan Gardens are one of those tourist attractions that you really should do while in Shanghai. They're also one of those things that, once you've seen it once, I'm not certain you need to brave the crowds and go again. Because there are some major crowds. In short, the gardens are an example of classical Chinese gardens and architecture. Surrounding the gardens are streets jammed with little tourist shops, candy stalls, and tea sellers. I admit it: this may have been my favorite part of the sightseeing venture. We obviously didn't really know much about the various candies, but we just chose some randomly. Their gummy candies are less sweet than the ones here in the States and they do nice sesame brittles and little pre-packaged egg pies with a variety of jammy fillings. Fun and kitschy if nothing else. Oh, and did I mention there's a Dairy Queen? Sometimes nothing tastes better than a blizzard.

In between Fuyou Lu and Middle Fangbang Lu
Shanghai, China

Street vendors
While in China, try some of the fruit that may be unfamiliar to you, including wax fruit and dragon fruit (not pictured here). Although some of our travel guides warned against buying fruit off the street, it's fine. Wash it and you're good to go.

HONG KONG
Intercontinental breakfast buffet
There are no words, really. My dad had stayed at The Intercontinental before and had described the breakfast buffet to us as "mind blowing: literally 60 feet long." I wasn’t thrilled. Visions of Vegas swam through my mind. I hate buffets. I also hate Vegas. But this may have been my very favorite part of our first day in Hong Kong. My dad was right: it truly is mind blowing (although I'm not sure it's 60 feet long). They cater to a variety of tourists here, so there are traditional Chinese breakfast items like congee, steamed buns, pickled vegetables and century eggs. There are also Japanese items like steamed eggs and noodles and there is your standard American fare: eggs and bacon, a pastry bar, and a waffle and pancake bar. What was so remarkable was how fresh and beautifully presented everything was. It didn't feel like an obscene all-you-can eat affair. Instead, it felt like you were carefully selecting very special pastries, local fruits, housemade jams, and trying breakfast items that aren't common back home. I'm a big yogurt and granola fan, and they had six different types of honey for your granola, a huge bar of seasonal fruits, ten different types of cereals, a huge variety of fresh jams and different yogurts and kefir. Add to that fresh juices, smoothies, strong coffee and international newspapers--I was a happy camper.

18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong, 00000 China

Zuma
Zuma is a modern Japanese restaurant with other locations in London, Dubai, and Miami. We came here to celebrate my sister's birthday, so it's definitely more of a special occasion or "last night in Hong Kong and you want to live it up" kind of place. They specialize in innovative food and a wide variety of housemade cocktails you won't find elsewhere. The interior is largely granite and glass, reminiscent of a Japanese garden with a large open kitchen, techno music, and warm lighting, and the food was outstanding. It's family style, so you'll want to order quite a few dishes and they bring them out as they're ready. Don't miss the spicy fried tofu, the dragon crab roll, and the house specialty miso black cod wrapped in a hoba leaf. Order dessert, too. My sister and I shared the green tea and banana cake with coconut ice cream, and it was the perfect end to a special meal. Before you leave (or while you're waiting for your meal), spend a little time out on the romantic terrace overlooking downtown.
The Landmark Atrium Level 5, 15 Queens Road
Central Hong Kong

Heichinrou
Heichinrou is a very popular dim sum spot in the Times Square Building, a famous shopping center in Hong Kong. It was packed with locals lingering over a long lunch, and after our first bite we understood why. The food was fantastic--probably the best dim sum I had while in China. Don't miss the broccoli with garlic, fried bean curd, shrimp jaozi, or steamed pork buns. And while I know no one in China is looking to get famous off of fried rice, I loved the pork-fried rice at Heichinrou. It had little bits of pork, fried egg and green onion and came in sweet ceramic cups. Load up on Jasmine tea and get ready for your next adventure.

Shop 1003, 10th Floor Times Square; 1 Matheson Street
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Sabatini
I'm recommending Sabatini to you because it's so utterly odd I wouldn't want you to miss it--and, of course, the food is great. It's in The Royal Garden Hotel, and they actually have pseudo-table side Mariachi music…yes, in an Italian restaurant in the middle of Hong Kong. It’s strange but it kind of works somehow. Given that most of the diners were tourists and business clientele, they know pretty much any English song you throw at them (although I will say they weren’t familiar with Lady Gaga). Sabatini's food is your classic Italian fare, with a nice seafood and pasta menu and a lovely antipasto bar. The original Sabtini opened in Rome in 1952, and this is one of two other locations. There's only so many dumplings and barbecued pork a person can eat, so when you find yourself in Hong Kong and need a break, sometimes a big plate of pasta is just the thing. Sabatini does that well.
69 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East
Kowloon, Hong Kong

Stands at Temple Street
Ah, Temple Street. This is the nighttime market hawking fake watches, handbags, and an odd collection of other items like batteries, fans, socks, baseball caps and the like. I think it's worthwhile to take a quick turn just to see it, and before you go, hit up one of the fruit stands at the far end by the food area. Here you can get a variety of local fruit juices and coconut waters. Nothing tastes better after slugging through the crowded, steamy market. Try both the young coconut and regular coconut--young coconut tends to be smaller and sweeter.

All in all, our trip was far too brief but we managed to pack it in, food-wise. I loved the variety, the spice, the unexpected cosmopolitan nature of many of the restaurants, and the graciousness of the chefs and waitstaff. I'm already compiling a list for a future trip when, perhaps, we can pack in more than a mere six days.

Dim Sum at Asian Pearl, Richmond

Ever since I've relocated to this lovely city by the bay, I've been asking every local denizen that enjoys good food (and yes, there are quite a few of you) the hard question: Where can I find good dim sum?

I almost always hear the same reputable establishments -- Yank Sing, Ton Kiang, Mayflower.

In a perfect world, I would find the ultimate dim sum spot where the food is exceptional, the wait not frightening, and the prices so low they incur giggles of disbelief and delight at the end of the meal. I know, it's a tall order, but somewhere out there I know … it awaits me.

And, I must admit, the quest is not a painful one (usually). I have stumbled upon some tasty discoveries worth sharing, such as these star dishes at Asian Pearl in Richmond.

Steamed Egg Custard Bun (Lau Sah Bao)

Not your run of the mill dim sum dish, these Steamed Egg Custard Buns are hard to come by. It takes a master dim sum chef to create these treasures of molten, buttery, yolky sweetness, encased in fluffy white steamed buns. The golden lava filling is a shock to the senses, and utterly delicious.

Marinated Tofu (Lo Sui Dao Fu)

The silky fine texture of the tofu is unreal, and seems even more so highlighted by the contrasting crunchiness of the thin fried casing around it. Light as air, but tons more flavorful. This will turn any tofu-sneerer into a believer with one bite.

Crispy Stuffed Rice Noodle Roll (Ja Leung)

A common dim sum dish done exceptionally well, Asian Pearl's Crispy Stuffed Rice Noodle Rolls were executed perfectly. The fried dough inside was freshly fried and extra crispy, and the rice noodle wrapped around it was thin, smooth, and slippery. Mmm you just can't beat carb on carb.

Pan Fried Rice Rolls (See Yao Wong Cheung Fun)

These Pan Fried Rice Rolls were a crowd pleaser. The noodles had a nice chew to them, and were fried fragrant. Like an appetizer version of your typical chow fun, with an amped up seared crispy dimension.

Ranch 99, Asian Market

And with dishes priced from $2.60 - $6.50 (with a majority of them at $3.30 for "medium" plates), you can take all that money you've saved and head over to the Ranch 99 just a few doors down. Stock up on Asian delicacies and condiments before heading home with your satiated self.

All in all, Asian Pearl, thumbs up. But is it "the one"? Afraid not. True, the variety and specialty dishes wooed me, but 1) I was sorely disappointed by their BBQ Pork Bun, one of my old standbys, botched up by too much cooking wine in the mixture; and 2) it's in Richmond. And I'm in SF with only a ZipCar to my name.

Maybe my dream is a pipedream, but this girl's not ready to give it up.

So, my dear readers, where can I find some good dim sum around here?

Yours truly,
Desperately Seeking Dim Sum

Asian Pearl
3288 Pierce St., #A-118
Richmond, CA 94804
510-526-6800