Chorizo Breakfast Sausage (no grinder needed!)

Homemade breakfast sausage has never really been on the top of my culinary accomplishments to tackle. It seemed difficult and messy, and I wasn't sold on how much better it would taste. I was wrong on all counts. Well, except for the messy part…you do need to get your hands in there.

I started to rethink the benefits of making my own sausage from scratch when I saw this month's Charcutepalooza Challenge: Grinding. For those who are unfamiliar with Charcutepalooza, it's a monthly online cooking group, like Daring Bakers or Tuesdays with Dorie, where everyone makes their take on one dish and posts about it on a given date. In this case, it is all about meat. The group, created by Mrs. Wheelbarrow and The Yummy Mummy at the beginning of this year, quickly developed an ardent following as charcuterie novices and pros alike shared their experiences of salting, smoking, curing -- and yes, grinding -- tasty meat treats.

Now, I love me a fine prosciutto any day, but admittedly, I'm not a huge charcuterie lover by nature. My husband, on the other hand, can frequently be seen in the kitchen around 9:30 p.m. making himself a plate of meat dessert. Charcutepalooza was just the thing I needed to step up my carnivorous game.

A whole lot of pork

This month's challenge focused on free form sausage-making (sans creepy skin casings). A good way to ease into things, I thought. First thing's first, I needed to get my hands on some pork shoulder and fatback. I've never asked for fatback before; it felt a little badass.

Snowy white fatback

The experts all say that the secret to a good grind is Eric Nies--sorry, I couldn't help myself--no, the real secret is ensuring that the meat and equipment are very cold. So, I stuck my metal mixing bowl and food processor blade in the freezer while I cut the meat and fat into small cubes. Then, I added my spices.

Spices

The inspiration behind my breakfast sausage seasonings comes from some tasty Chorizo Sausage Patties I had once in New York. I had done a remake of them at home before, using store-bought sausage and chorizo and adding a blend of seasonings, but this time I would attempt to do it all from scratch.

Spice rub

I raided my spice drawer and decided on a healthy dose of chili powder and smoked paprika, cayenne for some heat, cumin, ground fennel seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and a touch of garam masala to keep it interesting.

Thyme + Sage

I also added some brown sugar, garlic, and lots of fresh thyme and sage.

Ready to mingle

This party of flavors got doused over the meat and fat, and it all chilled and mingled together for two hours.

Sausage via Food Processor

Since I don't have a grinder, I used the food processor method. I worked in small batches, pulsing until everything was evenly ground. To this I added an egg yolk, a bit of milk, and vinegar to help bind it all together. I fried up a test patty, and it was good…but something was missing. My brain when to burgers (it does that sometimes) and voila! I knew what I needed -- the secret ingredient to my homemade burgers: caramelized onions.

Wit onions

That did the trick. My sausage patties were tangy, smoky, sweet, and savory, with a hint of heat. I think the biggest difference between my homemade sausage and store-bought was the texture. These definitely have more chew to them, and the fat added some great flavor. I'm already fantasizing about the killer breakfast sandwich I'm going to have tomorrow. And then, the day after that? This with Huevos Rancheros.

At this rate, I may just be on my way to meat dessert too one day.

Recipe: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage

Summary: Spicy and smoky, sweet and tangy, this homemade chorizo sausage is the breakfast of champions. The meat is ground using a food processor, so you don't even need a meat grinder!

By Stephanie Hua

Prep time: 2 hours 45 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
Total time: 2 hours 50 minutes
Yield: Makes about 30 (3-inch) patties

Ingredients

• 3 lbs boneless pork shoulder 3/4 lb. fatback
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar, chilled
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme, tightly packed
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage, tightly packed
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, ground
• 1 teaspoon cayenne
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon garam masala
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 cloves, ground (a pinch)

* If you're using fresh fatback, add 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt to the mixture. If you're using fatback that has been cured and salted, no additional salt is needed.

Instructions

1. Place your mixing bowl (metal is best) and food processor blade in the freezer. Lightly caramelize the onion over medium heat, about 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.
2. Cut the meat into 1" cubes and the fat into 1/2" cubes. Place in the chilled mixing bowl. Add the spices and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for two hours, the last 1/2 hour in the freezer.
3. Working in small batches, pulse in food processor, checking and scraping down the sides, until the meat and fat are evenly ground together. Place in a large mixing bowl.
4. Add the caramelized onions, egg yolk, milk, and vinegar. Using your hands, mix the sausage meat well to combine and reduce the air in the mixture.
5. It's a good idea to fry up a test patty at this point to check your seasoning. Form the remaining sausage mixture into patties. Over medium heat, fry the sausage patties in a lightly oiled skillet until crispy on the outside and cooked through. (Note: To freeze, form the patties and place them on a plate lined with parchment-paper. Freeze solid, then transfer the patties to an air-tight bag.)

There's nothing I love more than weekend brunch. It is the ultimate luxury. Waking up late, taking my time, and leisurely starting my day with some form of eggs and bacon or sausage, and a mug of hot coffee. Back in New York, brunch was sometimes a full-day affair, especially if Bloody Mary's were involved. Here in the Bay Area, people tend to be earlier risers, hitting the farmer's market, going to yoga class, or training for marathons/triathlons/any other –ons I'll likely never take part in.

No matter, I don't need to people watch to enjoy a good brunch. Brunch at home in PJs is just as satisfying...especially since I've cracked the recipe to these Chorizo Sausage Patties from my favorite brunch spot back east.

They take some prep time, but make them on a lazy day and keep a stash in your freezer for weekends to come. These are also a great make-ahead dish for group brunches -- just form the patties a day ahead, cover in plastic wrap, and store in the fridge. On party day, bring them to room temp and fire up the skillet!

Chorizo Sausage Patties

Makes: approximately 18 (3-inch) patties

Ingredients:
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 lb. chorizo (alternatives: Trader Joe's chicken chorizo works really well, or you can also use spicy Italian sausage removed from casings)
1 lb. sweet Italian sausage (removed from casings)
1/2 c. breadcrumbs
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. milk
2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp curry powder (or garam masala if you have it)
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh sage
2 large egg yolks

Preparation:
1. Lightly caramelize onion over moderately low heat, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool 10 minutes.

2. While onions are cooling, stir together breadcrumbs and milk in a large bowl and let stand until crumbs absorb milk. Add onions and remaining ingredients to crumb mixture and stir with a fork until blended well.

3. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F.

4. Form sausage mixture into 3-inch patties (about 1/2 inch thick) with dampened hands and arrange on a wax-paper lined tray.

5. Heat a little vegetable oil in 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Cook patties in 3 batches, turning once, until browned and just cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes per batch.

6. Drain patties briefly on paper towels as cooked, then transfer to shallow baking pan and keep warm, covered with foil, in oven while cooking remaining batches.