Bubble Wrap Chocolate at Delessio Market

At this point in time, it's probably becoming clear that I have a sweet tooth the size of Texas. I really love artisan ice cream, buttery pastries, a simple chocolate chip cookie -- and of course, chocolate. While I don't dabble with chocolate that contains lots of fillers or funky ingredients, for the most part I'll eat pretty much anything. From Ritter Sport Bars to Trader Joe's dark chocolate to an occasional Toblerone, my apartment is like a rotating door of chocolate consumption. I buy new bars and somehow they magically disappear.

But lately, I've discovered three new small-batch companies that are so special I've actually been savoring them. Yes, they've lasted for more than a day--even two, actually. I've fallen hard for each of these treats and I'm excited to take a moment to share them with you.

Bubble-Wrap Chocolate from Delessio Market

Delessio Bakery is attached to Falletti Foods. This is my neighborhood market although it's not the kind of spot where you do all of your grocery shopping; it's the perfect place to pop in for a quick bottle of wine, some fruit for your morning cereal or some pasta for dinner. However, I often find myself at Delessio Bakery for one of their lovely mini cupcakes or for a piece of bubble-wrap chocolate. Yes, I'll admit it: I first bought it because it was kind of a novelty and I haven't outgrown my love for stomping on bubble wrap and annoying friends and family near and far. But after the novelty wore off, I realized this is some darn good chocolate. They start with Felchin Swiss chocolate and melt it down, temper it, and then pour and cool it over a bubble wrap. They add in simple spices or inclusions chosen wisely so as not to mask the true flavor of the chocolate. While I generally prefer dark chocolate, the milk chocolate with macadamia nut brittle is amazing. And the bittersweet with cocoa nibs is a classic at my place. Delessio is remodeling this week and it's a little chaotic in there--but thankfully they've put the bubble-wrap in plain sight right by the entrance. In my opinion, this is really where it should always remain.

Hooker's Sweet Treats

I can't stop talking about these salted caramels. I know, I know. Maybe you feel like you're 'salted caramel-ed' out--we've certainly seen restaurants and bakeries all around the city grabbing a piece of the trend. But David "Hooker" Williams is here to stay with his Hooker's Sweet Treats, trend or not. You haven't tried a rich, buttery, complex salted caramel until you've tried one of his treats. The caramels are enrobed in 72 percent bittersweet chocolate and sprinkled with smokey Welsh sea salt.

They're packaged in a sweet craft box and currently you can only get them at two spots in town: Sightglass Coffee and The Perish Trust. But the Gods are in our favor on this one and Williams is slated to open his storefront at 442 Hyde (Between Ellis and O'Farrell) sometime this month. In addition to his infamous caramels, he'll also stock the caramel corn that has started to earn a following, and a few other treats such as Bread Pudding. For now, I'm hoofing it over to the Perish Trust and crossing my fingers they'll be in stock. Then I'm savoring each one slowly.

ChocoVivo

Based out of Southern California, ChocoVivo is doing really cool things with chocolate. This is another company that I can't stop talking about. The first word that comes to mind in describing this chocolate to friends is "rustic." It's stone-ground (how the Mayans used to do it over 2000 years ago), untempered (the process that makes chocolate shiny and pretty), and contains very few ingredients. On their website, they note: "“We eat whole fruits and vegetables, why not whole bean chocolate?” It's a good point. Next time you're at the market, take a look at the label of your favorite chocolate bar. I'd be willing to guess it has many more ingredients than you would've thought. My favorite ChocoVivo bar is the Almonds and Sea Salt and the ingredient list reads: cacao Nibs, dry roasted almonds, unrefined cane sugar, salt. That's it. Simple. Tasty. You'll be talking about this chocolate, too. I guarantee it.

My sister Rachael and her boyfriend Matt waiting in the showroom for the tour to begin

My mom was right when she mentioned no one was quite as excited about the chocolate tour as I was. I found myself almost elbowing small children to get to the front of the line so my view of the machines and the tempering process wouldn't be obstructed. I tried to keep my cool when they passed around the cocoa butter, assuring myself I'd get a turn to feel it as well. For someone who loves chocolate and who was already a big Theo fan, this was a major afternoon. And my family was kind enough to oblige when I told them that, although we only had two days in Seattle, this was how we were spending our Tuesday afternoon.

The tour began in a small room where our fearless guide led us through a brief history of Theo Chocolate, the only U.S. fair-trade, organic bean-to bar chocolate factory. In addition to many samples and a tour through the factory, we learned all about how Theo actually yields a chocolate bar from the cocoa pod--the beginning of it all.

A cocoa pod is actually a fruit with a leathery rind about 3 cm thick, and is a bit smaller than an American football. It's filled with cocoa seeds and mucilaginous pulp. The pulp kind of looks like wet cotton and it plays a key role in the fermentation of the chocolate (did you know chocolate is a fermented food?). To simplify drastically, with time and heat throughout the fermentation process, the white pulp disappears leaving only the dead heated seeds. The seeds are then dried and become known as beans--the raw material for the Theo magic to begin. There are apparently about 30-50 seeds in each pod, and it takes 80-90 beans to make a 3 oz. bar of chocolate.

The Process: One Hour Distilled Down to a Paragraph

Roasted beans, the Winnower machine, the tempering machine, quality control

In the factory itself, there are a number of machines and steps that are involved in creating the final product. They use a European roaster (there are less than 100 of these left in the world) which drives off moisture. Our tour guide explained that they do a partial roast to begin with and then send the beans into the "Winnower" machine where they are slammed against a steel plate to allow for the husks to separate, and are then moved through different meshes and through an air stream that blows the husk away from the recently smashed nibs. Then the cleaned nibs go back in the roaster to further develop the flavor. After this, off to the Ball Mill which whirls the beans at high speed so that they can be broken down and eventually turned into chocolate liqueur. They add evaporated cane juice, and 6500 pounds of chocolate goes into one holding tank where it is eventually taken to their tempering machines and out into individual molds.

Flavors of Theo Chocolate we Sampled:

Samples, samples, and more samples

I'm not sure that most people are used to describing the nuances of chocolate in the same way that we often do with wine or even with coffee. But our tour guide encouraged us to mention the first word that came to our minds when we sampled different bars. People began to loosen up after a few minutes and really explore their palates and their personal preferences. Here is a sampling of what we tried:

• Lime Coriander Confection: I loved this little square. It had a subtle, spring citrus flavor and just a hint of coriander. I was surprised to learn each confection and caramel is still hand-decorated.
• Pink Salted Vanilla Caramel: My mom bought some of these to take home. I can't honestly say that the pink salt adds any different flavor profile than regular salt, but they sure are pretty.
• Lemon Verbena Confection: Spring time in one bite. Vibrant, bright lemon flavor enrobed in dark chocolate.
• Milk Chocolate Chai Bar: While I much prefer dark to milk chocolate, I ended up falling in love with this bar and bringing one home. At Theo, their milk chocolate has at least 40% cocoa, so it still seems very rich and complex. I loved the warm spice flavor profile.
• Dark Chocolate Toasted Coconut Bar: And I bought two of these. Apparently they are seasonal so I was concerned they may go away forever. If you like coconut, try and get your hands on one.
• Dark Chocolate Cherry Almond: A really classic combination of organic cherries and rich dark chocolate studded generously with almonds.
• 91% Dark Chocolate Bar: This blew me away. I've tried 95% chocolate before and it just screamed baking chocolate--bitter, leaving your mouth with a dry, unpleasant taste. But Theo's 91% bar was not at all bitter (although not all that sweet either). The perfect bar for a dark chocolate purist.
• Nib Brittle (70%): I learned on the tour that people either love or hate cocoa nibs. I happen to love them, but by the looks on the faces of many of the folks around me, that's not always the case. This bar has organic, roasted nibs enrobed in a crunchy, slightly sweet brittle.

The Future of Chocolate in the U.S.

The tour closed with some interesting information that I wasn't aware of. Chocolate production in the U.S. is a really new endeavor--spanning only the last 250 years. And, like anything, the standards are constantly changing in regards to the percentage of cocoa required, fillers allowed etc. I was shocked to learn that currently commercial products only have to be 10% cocoa to call themselves chocolate. Yikes. What comprises the rest? Check out your average grocery store aisle and see if you can locate the chocolate chips often labeled "chocolate baking chips"--they're mostly milk solids and sugar. So Theo's whole point is that life is too short to eat bad quality chocolate and, in remaining firm with such high standards, they'll hopefully help shape the future landscape of chocolate standards and regulation. On their website they note:

At Theo, we believe there is no luxury in products that benefit us today, while jeopardizing future generations ability to meet their needs. When you taste our chocolate you will experience our passion and integrity in every luscious bite.

So like most things, not all chocolate is created equal. And I've become a little obsessed with reading labels and researching the chocolate that I purchase since taking the Theo tour. The name Theo originates from the Greek name of the Cacao tree -- Theobroma Cacao or "Food of the Gods." They're living up to the name.

Some of the Valentine's treats available at SusieCakes.

Now I don't know about you, but I think the negative vibes towards Valentine's Day are kind of laughable. We've all heard it before. Perhaps some of you are guilty of shouting it out on a yearly basis: "Urgh, I can't wait for the day to be over--it's not like I have anyone to spend it with." That sort of thing. But what could be better than a day during the dead of winter where pinks and reds abound in all the shops and where chocolate is pushed, pedaled, and procured? I mean, c'mon. Who needs a sweetie to enjoy a jaunt through See's or Recchiuti? Or, as I learned earlier this week: SusieCakes.

SusieCakes welcoming storefront

Los Angeles-based SusieCakes has been open about a month in the Bon Air Shopping Center in Marin, and I've been meaning to visit with each passing day. I was doing errands in the area the other day and decided to stop in and see what all the fuss was about. I'd heard about their "frosting-filled cupcakes" and I thought it was a genius idea for all of us who use the cupcake as a socially acceptable excuse to eat frosting. And lots of it. What I didn't expect to find was the huge celebration of Valentine's Day in full effect--from sweet little cookies to festive whoopie pies. I took some photos (for you), I chatted with the gals to see what was good and what was flying out the door, and then--of course--I took some things home.

The "Love Shack," a special Valentine's Gingerbread House, and the adorable Conversation Heart Cookies

So let's talk about those frosting-filled cupcakes. Now I'm not sure how they do it. There's literally a dip or a groove in the top of the cupcake where a nice little shot of extra frosting lays. It's pure magic. I love their almost haphazard way of frosting each cupcake as well. It's not perfectly even and looks rather homemade, but in a generous, abundant sort-of way.

The genius that is SusieCakes' signature frosting-filled cupcakes

I tried the Peanut Butter, Chocolate, Red Velvet and the Sugar and Spice (February Special) cupcakes. You'll notice there aren't any photos of the Peanut Butter. That's because, like an eager and grubby-handed child, I ate it in the car. I just couldn't wait. Each flavor I tried was unbelievably soft and moist although I must say that I’m a bit of a Red Velvet snob, and I couldn't taste the cocoa in theirs. But the chocolate was rich in cocoa, and the Sugar & Spice cupcake had a lovely, light vanilla-sugar flavor. I made a big batch of snickerdoodles recently and the Sugar and Space tastes a lot like the classic cookie. You just look at these cupcakes and want to bring them to someone you love, or like, or appreciate, or want to make smile. They're happiness in a box, really.

I didn't try some of the other treats, although I'll be back in town this week and plan on swinging by for a whoopie pie (or a "Makin' Whoopie Pie," their current take on the old-school dessert). And while there's certainly a glut of cupcake spots in the Bay Area and while some people I know are excusing cupcakes altogether as a retired trend, there’s something special about SusieCakes. It's evident in the regulars who were strolling in before 11 a.m. on a weekday to pick up a few treats. And it's evident in their attention to homemade, old-fashioned desserts (think along the lines of Magnolia Bakery in New York but before the Sex in the City madness) with banana and butterscotch puddings, classic pies and stacked cakes. They're not trying to be anything they’re not with wacky and original flavors, but they're doing the classics incredibly well.

A good motto to live by, and a great daily selection of cupcakes

So for a little shop with a big sign deeming "Eat Cake," I don't think it much matters if you have a sweetheart or not this year. Those are words we can all take to heart.

SusieCakes
310 Bon Air Center
Bon Air Shopping Center
Greenbrae, CA 94904
Map
(415) 461-2253

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10am-7pm; Closed Sunday (although they will be open Sunday February 14th for Valentines Day).

Twitter: @Susiecakes

Chocolate chip heaven

Ah, the chocolate chip cookie. A classic. An American icon. A comfort so versatile, it is as satisfying raw as it is baked.

I'm sure we've all sampled our share of this pervasive sweet treat, from those that were passable (but got the job done), to those that reached heights of heavenly decadence.

Chocolate chip cookie, unflattened golf ball version

I had one such cookie lately that made me wonder: What makes the ultimate chocolate chip cookie?

After deep introspection, I came to the conclusion that it must satisfy a trifecta of textural perfection. It has to be crunchy, chewy, and gooey.

I was reminded of David Leite's fantastic chocolate chip cookie article that came out almost a year ago in the New York Times, in which he described this much sought after "bull's-eye" of cookie greatness. When you first bite into the cookie, the crisp outer ring should break with a nice crunch, giving way to a satisfying chew, and progressing to near gooeyness in the center of it all. If done right, you should still be able to feel the sugar granules of the cookie dough on your tongue here.

Resist the temptation to eat all of this cookie dough and you will be handsomely rewarded

And then, of course, there is flavor.

The ultimate cookie must envelope you with all the homey flavors of butter, sugar, vanilla, and rich chocolate. Generous, copious amounts of quality, semi-sweet chocolate in each bite, please!

Now, I've made dozens upon dozens of chocolate chip cookies before, but how come mine just never seem to reach the ultimate level of amazingness that my favorite bakeries achieve? What is their secret?

As I learned from Mr. Leite and his arsenal of choco chip experts, it's all about patience. The trick is to let the dough rest between 24-36 hours before baking them!

I mustered up all the self restraint I had, gave it a shot, and was amazed at what a difference it made. As predicted, my cookie had a richer golden color, better texture, and had a significantly more complex flavor. The extra time allowed all the egg, butter and sugar to meld and soak into the flour so that when they baked up, the toffee caramel notes bloomed. Plus, a sprinkle of sea salt at the end adds an extra dimension to the sweetness.

Use the best ingredients you can. I went with my old faithful, unsalted, European Style Sweet Butter from Straus Family Creamery, and E. Guittard’s 61% Cacao Semisweet Couverture wafers. The quarter-sized baking discs melt well and cool with a pretty sheen. They also make for gorgeous, thin strata of luscious chocolate throughout the cookie.

Use an ice cream scoop to create golf ball sized mounds of dough that are all even. I experimented with flattening versus not flattening the mounds before baking. With the ice cream scoop mounds, not flattening resulted in a prettier cookie that was a little cakier.

My favorite batch resulted in using a ½ cup scoop, creating baseball sized mounds, and flattening it slightly so that the cookie spread a bit. The final product was a cookie with wow factor. BIG wow factor. The perfect thing for a special birthday care package.

Jumbo chocolate chip cookie, flattened baseball version

Now that's the ultimate chocolate chip cookie.

Recipe: NYT Chocolate Chip Cookie, Adapted from Jacques Torres

I've been spending entirely too much time watching episodes of The French Chef with Julia Child that my friend Craig gave me.

I find Mrs. Child oddly hypnotic. There is something about her uniquely-accented voice and the not-entirely graceful movement of her formerly 6' 2" body that compels me to watch her.

And watch her I do. Over and over again.

This week, I've been enjoying an early, black and white episode wherein she gives a champagne and coffee party in honor of:

"...the Queen of Sheba, which turns out to be this dark beauty, made of chocolate, and almonds, and rum, and butter!"

She then invites us into her kitchen where she promises we'll make:

"the best chocolate cake you ever put in your mouth."

That's one heavy promise, but I love her enthusiasm.

I decided to put my money where Mrs. Child's mouth is and examine this cake and the woman behind it, however superficially.

And one or two other things, of course.

First, there is the name:
The Queen of Sheba

The legend of the Queen of Sheba can be found in both the Old Testament and the Qur'an. As a polytheist monarch of tremendous wealth and wisdom, she was intrigued by King Solomon of Israel, who was famous for his own wealth and wisdom, plus the odd little fact that he and his people worshipped only one god (1 Kings 10:1-13). She set off to visit him, laden with spices, gold, jewels, and a series of riddles to test his alleged wisdom. She was more or less awed by him, and he rather impressed with her. She returned to her southern Kingdom with "all that her heart desired", including a new, solitary god.

Despite what the vampy costume of Betty Blythe might suggest in her 1921 epic The Queen of Sheba, most accounts suggest that the relationship between Solomon and herself were of a respectful, intellectual nature.

Most.

Unless you choose to believe the Ethiopians. They claim her as their own. In fact, the legitimacy of their nearly 3,000-year, dynasty was founded on the belief that Solomon gave her slightly more than gold and jewelry as a parting gift.

Whatever you choose to believe, it is clear why the "best chocolate cake you ever put in your mouth" was named after her-- she was dark, rich, and sophisticated. A queen fit for the queen of cakes.

Of course, I couldn't end it there. Not with Oscar season around the corner. Nor an obvious tangent staring me in the face.

Come Back, Little Sheba

One of the few vintage, Oscar-winning performances I have yet to see is that of Miss Shirley Booth's turn as Lola Delaney in Comeback, Little Sheba from 1952. The dowdy, shuffling, and unambitious Lola and her husband "Doc" (played by Burt Lancaster) are 20 years into a loveless, shotgun marriage. The baby was lost and both find comfort in their own particular ways; he with alcohol, she with a little dog named "Sheba" on whom she lavishes all of her attention until it runs away from her, most likely from fear of emotional smothering.

And that's before the film even begins. I won't give the rest of the plot away, most likely since I have no idea what happens next. I'm hoping it's some kind of sex comedy, but my hopes aren't aimed too high, since films about deep regret and personal failings aren't generally funny. Or sexy.

In stretching the limits of credibility, I have begun to think of this cake as somewhat appropriately linked to this film. Both are reportedly richly-layered, slightly crestfallen, alcoholic, and a bit nutty.

Almonds, you know.

Which leads to a warning to keep one's logical stream-of-consciousness in check. Miss Booth may have won the Academy Award for her performance in Come Back, Little Sheba, but her biggest success came later as the star of the popular 1960's situation comedy Hazel, in which she played the title role of a dictatorial-yet-endearing live-in housemaid.

Though critics have complained that the show was contrived and only "mildly amusing," Hazel does have her die-hard fans, who are referred to as "hazelnuts." Irritating, certainly.

The evident danger here is heaping too much honor upon Miss Booth by substituting the above-mentioned nuts for the traditional almonds, but that would be another cake entirely.

Little Shebas

I still intend to honor Miss Booth. Or at least the dog who had sense enough to run away from her emotionally-starved owner by making this major player in the classic repretoire of chocolate desserts into a minor figure size-wise, while still keeping the integrity of the classic recipe.

I have omitted the chocolate glaze used by many recipes, including Julia Child's. I simply think it's gilding an already-perfect lily. Oh, and I'm lazy. It is a rich cake, with a slightly gooey, warm center. More chocolate only makes it heavier. Still, I think it is a cake that would make its ancient namesake proud.

I doubt very much that Lola Delaney would have either the emotional wherewith all or even the equipment to make one herself, but Hazel would certainly find it easy to whip up for Mr. B when she wasn't busy whipping the rest of his family into shape. And , chocolate glaze or no, I think Mrs. Child would still enjoy putting one in her mouth.

Sadly, this is not as popular a cake as it used to be. Chocolate trends of the past several years have lead to denser, darker, more chocolaty, chocolate cakes. The virtue of this cake is it's balance of chocolate and nuttiness, with just a hint of rum underneath. As befitting a queen, it demands respect by virtue of its subtle complexity rather than by beating the palate with her sceptre. And that's all too bad because I think this little Sheba is definitely ready for a comeback.

The following will make one large Reine de Saba in an 8-inch cake pan, or make six petite versions in a large (3 1/2-inch diameter) muffin tin. Comme tu veux.

Ingredients:

4 oz semi-sweet chocolate (bittersweet may be used, but I'm going the Child route here)
2 tablespoons rum or coffee
1/4 lb butter at room temperature
2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 egg, separated
2/3 cup finely ground almonds
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
1/4 tsp almond extract
1/2 cup cake flour, measured then sifted
one good pinch of salt

Preparation:

Pre-heat oven to 350F and place rack in the middle.

1. Melt the chocolate and rum or coffee (choose your poison) in a pot set over simmering (not boiling, please) water, stirring to combine. Cover, turn off heat, and leave alone. You'll come back to it later and it isn't going anywhere. Cream the butter and 2/3 cup sugar together until pale yellow and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks until paler and even fluffier than before. Add almond extract.

2. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites on low-to-medium until foamy, then increase speed as you like, adding 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar until soft peaks form.

3. Return to your melted chocolate and give her a little stir. The consistency should be somewhat satiny and fluid. Beat in a bit of butter/yolk mixture at a time, stirring constantly so the yolks do not curdle. Repeat until all is one.

4. Combine almond meal, flour, and salt. Now add this dry mixture to your chocolate goo, incorporating bits at a time. When this has been accomplished, gently fold in egg whites, starting with about 1/2 a cup and working the rest in ever so skillfully.

5. Immediately set to placing about 1/2 cup of your batter into each of the six muffin tins. Give her a good, hard bang or two on your kitchen counter to level and remove any bubbles in the batter. Bake for 12 minutes, then begin to peek into your oven obsessively until finished. A pale, chocolatey crust should form, but the cakes shold jiggle a wee bit, too. Ideally, a toothpick inserted about an inch from the edges should come out dry, but one poked into the center should not. When this has been acheived, remove from oven and let cool for, oh, I don't know, let's say an hour, because you've got other things to do. When ready to remove from pan, run a sharp knife around the edges of the cakes, invert onto a tray, and you're done.

Not exactly. At this point, you may either top them with a chocolate glaze or simply dust them with powdered sugar.

Serve them to friends at your upcoming Oscar party, or just feed them to your pets and watch their little hearts explode from the chocolate.

All Summer long chocolatiers suffer as warm weather makes working, not to mention shipping their delicate product a challenge. But Winter comes along and everyone I know craves chocolate. Hot chocolate, chocolate confections, chocolate cake, it's all good.

This coming Saturday you can indulge your desire for chocolate and find out what to drink with your favorite bon bon. CocoaBella Chocolates will be hosting a Top Chocolatier Pairing Event, featuring Christopher Elbow of Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates, Fritz Knipschildt of Knipschildt Chocolatier, and Jeff Shepherd of Lillie Belle Farms.

For the first time ever, these three of the world's top artisan chocolatiers will be together presenting their favorite chocolate and spirit pairings at CocoaBella's flagship old-world European style store in San Francisco.

What: Top Chocolatier Pairing Event

Where: CocoaBella Chocolates, 2102 Union St, San Francisco

When: Saturday January 17th from 8:00-9:00 pm

How: Tickets are $20 per person, including drinks and chocolate, and are available at CocoaBella stores or by phone at (415) 931-6213

To this day one of my favorite hot chocolate drinks is this one:

Nutella Hot Chocolate

Makes: 1 serving

Ingredients:
3/4 cup milk, whole or low fat
2 Tablespoons Nutella

Preparation:
Gently heat the milk over medium low heat, in a heavy saucepan. Stir in the Nutella and whisk until smooth. Serve in a mug with or without whipped cream.

Let's face it -- Christmas is not about the joy of giving and receiving. It's not about the much-disputed birth of Christ, or miracles, or even the tarting up of pagan trees while singing Songs of Cheeses.

It's about whether you get your chocolate on odds or evens this year. It's about whether your older sister will force you to give her your day's haul of chocolate. That's right my friends, this month is ALL about Advent calendar chocolate.

(Sidebar: remember non-chocolate Advent calendars where the only reward for us kids was first, the sheer pleasure of finding the tiny digits in an almost Where's Waldo of numbers, and second, the excitement of opening the perforated hatch to expose what lay beneath? Sigh. Simpler times. Simpler pleasures.)

Okay, so since we're currently over, um, two weeks? Into Advent, this post is a skosh late, BUT forewarned is forearmed for next year.

It is a truth universally acknowledged that Advent calendar chocolate tastes no better than the cardboard doors they hide behind. To wit: last year, the chocolate in our Andronico's-purchased Advent calendar was so horrific that by Christmas Eve, I had been handing over my "turns" to my husband for at least a week.

Finally, my ire over the paucity of good chocolate sent me scurrying to the Wide, Wide World of Web. If we live in an era of artisanal cheese, specialized olive oil, rare vinegar, and DIY flour, quality Advent calendar chocolate MUST exist, right?

Eh. Sort of.

After scouring the websites of my favorites -- Burdick's, Scharffenberger, Reciutti, and Cocoa Bella -- and coming up dry, I widened the search.

I hit pay dirt when I turned up a link to Godiva's Advent calendar, but of course it was sold out, so I filed the information away in my brain, and the link in my bookmarks, and I found it again this year. (Okay, so it's sold out again, it's not like you were going to buy it now, right?)

At British Delights, I also discovered a Cadbury Dairy Milk Advent calendar. Well, of COURSE the same ingenious Brits who have the foresight to install refrigerated Cadbury chocolate dispensers in the Underground would stuff their Advent calendars with Cadbury chocolate!

While Godiva and Cadbury are clearly a flavor step above the usual Advent calendar chocolate, I still think there's room for improvement.

The Godiva Advent calendar is very sophisticated, very adult, in that there are no Christmas-themed pictures of angels, presents, teddy bears, or Santa Clauses (Clausi?) on or behind the little doors. The calendar is illustrated by a big, stylized tree made up of green ornaments on a red background; white snowflakes and gold strings of beads provide additional decoration.

Basically, it's the chocolate Advent calendar equivalent of those special jacket covers that some adults buy to hide the fact they're reading Harry Potter.

The Godiva chocolate is...fine. You get thick green, red, and blue foil-wrapped coins of milk, dark, or white chocolate with a bas-relief of Lady Godiva molded on them. Not Santa Claus or Jesus or a Wise Man, just a naked lady on a horse. Very adult.

The Cadbury Dairy Milk Advent calendar is clearly aimed at kids or the young at heart. The doors have little pictures on and behind them, and the chocolates themselves are molded into Christmassy shapes that can only be deciphered if you squint at them after several glasses of ruby port. Again, the chocolate here is just middling, but "middling" is a giant step above plastic cardboard, so I'm not really complaining.

In the next few years, I want to see Burdick's, Scharffenberger, Reciutti, Cocoa Bella, or even Dove step it up, Advent calendar-wise.

What, you think they won't sell? Aside from the adults who would kill to find orange pekoe truffles or fleur de sel caramels behind the little doors, are you telling me that the parents with kids who ask, "Is the beef local?" wouldn't brag about those same kids lisping, "Is the chocolate artisanal?"

The espresso ganache-based Obama chocolates that Cosmic Chocolates pours out in Oakland as part of their "Cosmic Icon" collection is old news in the Bay Area. Tasty, but old. Therefore, our Bay Area political chocolatieres should step up their game because Boston-based Burdick's is seriously outclassing them.

Check out Burdick's separate Obama and McCain chocolate boxes. Not only do you get a jean jacket-ready button touting either campaign and a festive box tied with blue or red ribbon and bearing the party's animal, but each box of chocolates is flavored in line with each candidate's history.

For example, the McCain box features an "Arizona Citrus" chocolate and a "Hot Pepper Tequila" chocolate. Separately, they are sort of a mystery -- when I think of citrus, my mind does not jump to AZ -- but together maybe they make sense. Sort of a chocolate cocktail. Try shoving both in your mouth at once and see if I'm right.

Also confusing in the McCain box is the "Kentucky Rye" chocolate, described as "dark ganache with a strong rye whiskey, seasoned with citrus." Huh? I guess it could just be one of their signature chocolates, along with the tiny chocolate mice and Kentucky Truffles also included in the assortment, but wouldn't it have made more sense to developed a beer-flavored chocolate?

The Obama box features a dark chocolate-coated Hawaiian pineapple pate de fruit and another made from Kenyan coffee ganache and coated with crushed coffee. The "Kansas Corn Crunch" -- dark Bourbon whisky ganache -- might seem confusing until you recall Kansas is his mother's home state. (Note: Obama won't do well in Kansas this fall, so Burdick's might want to rethink that one.)

In order to remain fair and balanced, I bought and tasted both Obama and McCain chocolates. (That way, their voting system could just toss out my vote.)

I grew up in a house divided, so for my parents' anniversary (September 11th, no less), I sent them boxes from each party. My Dad's a definite Republican, and while my mother has always been a liberal, I'm never 100% certain which way she'll go. She might see this as a bribe. I wrote, "Happy Anniversary to a couple who have always remained strong individuals even after 40+ years."

So, if you're undecided about which way to go in November, buy a 1/4 pound of each and let your tastebuds decide, because unlike the actual political parties, neither of these will leave a bad taste in your mouth.

Can't you just see Stephen Colbert chewing these over, trying to determine which one tastes "more presidential"?

Another food purveyor tempting the nation's political palate is Northbrook, Illinois deli, Max and Benny's. They've baked and frosted cookies in the likenesses of Obama, McCain, and Biden. I'm not so sure I'd want to eat a McCain, though; check out the expression on his face! It's got indigestion written all over it.

Also, one of my favorite beer companies from back east, Magic Hat Brewing, has tricked out their 12-packs in all sorts of vote-happy colors and images as part of their get out the vote campaign with Head Count.

The first weekend in September I will be flying off to Portugal to learn about cork, but if I was in town I'd be sauntering down to Ghirardelli Square to check out the annual Chocolate Festival. It's free to attend, but tickets are sold for "tastings" and all proceeds benefit Project Open Hand. There are close to 30 vendors including Ghirardelli chocolate, Ciao Bella Gelato, Kara's Cupcakes, Presidio Cafe and Young's Double Chocolate Stout.

Some highlights include a chance to meet Kara Lind, owner of Kara's Cupcakes and learn about cupcake making and decorating, a wine and chocolate pairing seminar and demonstrations by Master Chocolatier Ann Czaja who will share chocolate recipes and entertaining ideas. Yes, there will be samples!

What: Chocolate Festival Indulge in chocolate treats, sip at the Wine & Chocolate Bar, and enjoy Chef Demonstrations and other family activities.

Where: Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St, San Francisco

When:9:00am-5:00pm, September 6-7, 2008

How: Admission is free, but tickets are available for tastings, 15 tastings for $20 or 6 tastings for $10

Why: This is a fundraiser for Project Open Hand, for over 20 years, Project Open Hand has provided meals and bags of groceries to men, women and children living with symptomatic HIV and AIDS. They also provide daily congregate lunches to seniors and provide meals to people who are homebound and critically ill.

Here is the winning recipe from Ghirardelli's America's Most Intense Chocolate Recipe:

Triple Chocolate Truffle Cake

Ingredients:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened, plus additional for pan
3 cups Ghirardelli Semi Sweet Chocolate Baking Chips
8 large eggs, cold
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 cup Ghirardelli Milk Chocolate Baking Chips
2 ounces Ghirardelli White Chocolate Baking Bar, chilled

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 325° F. Arrange rack in center of oven. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9 by 2-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.

2. Melt butter and semi-sweet chocolate chips over double boiler until smooth; cool slightly. Meanwhile, with a hand mixer or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip eggs and salt on medium speed until doubled in volume, about 5 minutes.

3. Gently fold, in thirds, whipped eggs into melted chocolate. Pour batter into prepared cake pan and place pan in water bath. Bake until the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan and is set in the center, about 40 minutes. Remove pan from water bath to a cooling rack and cool cake completely in pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. To remove cake, dip the bottom and halfway up the sides of the pan in warm water and run a thin metal spatula around the inside of the pan. Invert onto a plate to unmold, remove parchment paper.

4. To prepare ganache, bring heavy cream to a simmer and pour over milk chocolate chips. Stir gently until smooth; cool slightly. Pour ganache over top of cake and spread with an offset spatula to evenly cover. (There will be some ganache leftover.) Chill cake until ganache sets, about 30 minutes. To garnish, grate white chocolate bar on top of cake.

If you've always wanted to learn how to work with chocolate, you're in luck. Chuck Siegel of Charles Chocolates will be giving chocolate classes. Head into the Charles Chocolates factory kitchen to learn the basics of working with chocolate through an entirely hands-on, intensive class led by Siegel himself.

Starting with the basics of working with chocolate, the curriculum will also include more technique driven skills like preparing ganaches, rolling truffles, tempering, shell molding and more. “People are curious about working with chocolate, and I get asked for tips and lessons all the time,” said Siegel. “Once you know the basics, there are so many ways to creatively use those skills.” Recipes are fine, but nothing beats hands-on experience.

The classes will take place on Saturday afternoons, and last approximately five hours. You must wear closed toed shoes in our factory kitchen and please wear clothing that you don't mind getting a little bit of chocolate on.

What: Chocolate Classes at Charles Chocolates
When: Saturday, June 14 from 1-6pm, other dates to follow
Where: Charles Chocolates Chocolate Bar, 6529 Hollis St., Emeryville
How: Purchase tickets $300
If you have any questions, please call 510.652.4412 x311 or email events@charleschocolates.com.
Why: Learn to make chocolates from a master chocolatier and take home all of the confections you make, plus a deluxe kit containing molds, an offset spatula, sheet pans and several recipes developed by Siegel -- everything necessary to use what was learned during the class at home.

Here's a sample recipe you can try at home:

Perfect Chocolate Truffles (untempered)
courtesy of Chuck Siegel, owner of Charles Chocolates

Ingredients:
250g/2 cups 65% Bittersweet Chocolate
250g/2 cups 41% Milk Chocolate
345g/1 1/3 cups Heavy Whipping Cream (not ultra-pasteurized) – When infusing cream with herbs or tea, increase by 50% to 518g to allow for evaporation. Use only 345 total grams of infused cream in recipe.
1 Vanilla Bean
150g/5.5 oz. Unsalted Butter – softened
453g/4 cups 65% Bittersweet Chocolate for dipping
225g/2 cups Natural (not Dutch processed) cocoa powder for rolling

Directions:
1. Melt chocolates together to 120°

2. Slit vanilla bean in half and scrape seeds into cream - Heat cream to 120° (note that variations like infusions of fresh mint, Earl Grey or Jasmine Tea or the addition of fruits like raspberries or mangos would be integrated into this step).

3. Add melted chocolate to cream and, starting from the middle of the bowl, stir with a silicone spatula to start the emulsion. As the emulsion forms in the center of the bowl, move to the edges to completely blend the ingredients.

4. Add the room temperature butter and mix with immersion blender

5. Pour ganache into a saran wrap covered ¼ sheet pan and smooth out with an offset spatula – cover with another sheet of saran to prevent a skin from forming on the ganache.

6. Refrigerate until firm (at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight)

7. Remove ganache, remove saran and invert ganache onto the back of a second ¼ sheet pan. Using a steel ruler, mark edges of ganache in 1" increments.

8. Using a pizza cutter or sharp paring knife, using the ruler as a guide, cut ganache into 1" squares. Roll each square in latex gloved hands into a smooth ball and refrigerate for 1 hour.

9. Melt bittersweet chocolate for dipping. In latex gloved hands, alternately place small amounts of melted chocolate and truffle balls in your hand to coat.

10. Drop coated truffles in natural cocoa and roll to coat. Place coated truffles on a saran covered ¼ sheet pan and refrigerate until ready to eat.