I'm one of those travelers who loves to get to know a place based on its neighborhoods and food, but I realize not everyone's this way. So during our first few days in Shanghai, I capitalized on my family's jetlag and unfamiliarity with the city and--relying on friend's recommendations and a little research--dragged them around on many a food adventure. Over the next six days we tasted everything from steamed buns to dragon fruit, and visited markets, noodle stands and higher-end restaurants. This is far from an exhaustive list. Instead, it's simply where we found ourselves eating, lounging, and drinking: a whirlwind visual tour in case you ever find yourself in Shanghai or Hong Kong with no clue where to eat. We did a little footwork for you.

SHANGHAI
Food Market
The Chinese don't eat dessert nearly as often as we do in the States. Many folks do tea after meals or a bit of fruit, but routine desserts aren't as common. However, sweet snacks are a different story altogether and markets or street-side stands stock sweet buns or dumplings. At the Food Market on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, my sister and I noticed locals lining up for a late lunch of simple noodles and dumplings, sweet snacks, whole roasted ducks, or breads and baked goods to carry out. Some of the most popular sweets were the red bean paste dumplings, black sesame dumplings, and small rice pudding patties topped with candied fruits. I absolutely loved both sweet dumplings, and found their relatively dainty size and subtle sweetness truly satisfying.

Wang Jia Sha, 805 Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China

M on the Bund
This is, by far, my favorite restaurant in Shanghai. While not the most inexpensive choice, I've never been to a place with such energy and excitement while still maintaining an utterly unpretentious and gracious vibe. Voted “One of the Top 20 restaurants in Asia” last year by the Miele Guide and “The Most Popular Restaurant in Shanghai” by Zagat two years back, M on the Bund is located in the historic 1921 Nissin Shipping Building, and overlooks The Bund, Shanghai’s most famous waterfront destination. The food's a bit tough to pin down: the flavors range from Middle Eastern to Mod Euro, but ultimately come off as really thoughtful, tasty, comforting food. You won't find fancy foam or precious portions. Instead, there are strong cocktails, beautiful salads, perfectly cooked steak and seafood, and beautiful Moroccan vegetarian fare. The roof terrace is vast; diners are seated outside overlooking the water and the teeming nightlife and energy of the Bund, but folks also bring their cocktails out and linger while waiting for their meals. It's all very romantic and intoxicating and almost otherworldly.

7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )
Shanghai 200002 China

T8
T8 has a few kinks to work out with their service and this is another spot where the food is quite pricey, but the atmosphere is beautiful and it’s located in the Xintiandi area, known for food, fashion, and nightlife and perfect for an evening stroll or grabbing a post-dinner cocktail. There is a part of me that thinks T8 takes themselves a bit too seriously, showcasing your bottle of water like it's a fine champagne and crafting teeny, artistic appetizers. However, there's another part of me that loves the candlelit atmosphere with lanterns and bamboo furnishings, a bustling open kitchen and stunning floral arrangements. They bring out incredible warm bread baked in individual popover pans--I liked that, and the entrees were solid. T8 specializes in more contemporary, seasonal European dishes with Asian accents. From the cod with Chinese vegetables to the Wagyu beef burger and sensational fries, it was a nice treat after a long day of sightseeing. Skip the starters and appetizers, go straight to the entrees, and enjoy the atmosphere.

No. 8 Xintiandi North Part Lane 181 Tai Cang Road
Shanghai 200021 China

Kommune
Kommune is the kind of place you'd adopt as your own if you lived in Shanghai. And sure enough, we saw many an expat, quite a few students, and a noticeably large Australian population congregated on the outdoor patio eating sandwiches, salads, fresh juices, pastas, simple entrees, and house baked cookies. Located on Taikang Lu, a bustling artist's enclave peppered with galleries, interesting shops, and numerous cafes and wine bars, this is one likeable joint. Do know that their portions are huge: the incredibly fresh Greek salad was enough for three, and the milkshakes could easily be shared with a few friends. I loved this place. It was a welcome respite from the bustling dim sum lunch joints we’d been frequenting. You can relax here, wasting away an entire afternoon drinking fresh juices or lattes (voted the best in Shanghai) while people-watching or making new international friends.

The Yard, No. 7, 210 Taikang Road
Shanghai, 200025, China

Yuyuan Gardens
The Yuyuan Gardens are one of those tourist attractions that you really should do while in Shanghai. They're also one of those things that, once you've seen it once, I'm not certain you need to brave the crowds and go again. Because there are some major crowds. In short, the gardens are an example of classical Chinese gardens and architecture. Surrounding the gardens are streets jammed with little tourist shops, candy stalls, and tea sellers. I admit it: this may have been my favorite part of the sightseeing venture. We obviously didn't really know much about the various candies, but we just chose some randomly. Their gummy candies are less sweet than the ones here in the States and they do nice sesame brittles and little pre-packaged egg pies with a variety of jammy fillings. Fun and kitschy if nothing else. Oh, and did I mention there's a Dairy Queen? Sometimes nothing tastes better than a blizzard.

In between Fuyou Lu and Middle Fangbang Lu
Shanghai, China

Street vendors
While in China, try some of the fruit that may be unfamiliar to you, including wax fruit and dragon fruit (not pictured here). Although some of our travel guides warned against buying fruit off the street, it's fine. Wash it and you're good to go.

HONG KONG
Intercontinental breakfast buffet
There are no words, really. My dad had stayed at The Intercontinental before and had described the breakfast buffet to us as "mind blowing: literally 60 feet long." I wasn’t thrilled. Visions of Vegas swam through my mind. I hate buffets. I also hate Vegas. But this may have been my very favorite part of our first day in Hong Kong. My dad was right: it truly is mind blowing (although I'm not sure it's 60 feet long). They cater to a variety of tourists here, so there are traditional Chinese breakfast items like congee, steamed buns, pickled vegetables and century eggs. There are also Japanese items like steamed eggs and noodles and there is your standard American fare: eggs and bacon, a pastry bar, and a waffle and pancake bar. What was so remarkable was how fresh and beautifully presented everything was. It didn't feel like an obscene all-you-can eat affair. Instead, it felt like you were carefully selecting very special pastries, local fruits, housemade jams, and trying breakfast items that aren't common back home. I'm a big yogurt and granola fan, and they had six different types of honey for your granola, a huge bar of seasonal fruits, ten different types of cereals, a huge variety of fresh jams and different yogurts and kefir. Add to that fresh juices, smoothies, strong coffee and international newspapers--I was a happy camper.

18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong, 00000 China

Zuma
Zuma is a modern Japanese restaurant with other locations in London, Dubai, and Miami. We came here to celebrate my sister's birthday, so it's definitely more of a special occasion or "last night in Hong Kong and you want to live it up" kind of place. They specialize in innovative food and a wide variety of housemade cocktails you won't find elsewhere. The interior is largely granite and glass, reminiscent of a Japanese garden with a large open kitchen, techno music, and warm lighting, and the food was outstanding. It's family style, so you'll want to order quite a few dishes and they bring them out as they're ready. Don't miss the spicy fried tofu, the dragon crab roll, and the house specialty miso black cod wrapped in a hoba leaf. Order dessert, too. My sister and I shared the green tea and banana cake with coconut ice cream, and it was the perfect end to a special meal. Before you leave (or while you're waiting for your meal), spend a little time out on the romantic terrace overlooking downtown.
The Landmark Atrium Level 5, 15 Queens Road
Central Hong Kong

Heichinrou
Heichinrou is a very popular dim sum spot in the Times Square Building, a famous shopping center in Hong Kong. It was packed with locals lingering over a long lunch, and after our first bite we understood why. The food was fantastic--probably the best dim sum I had while in China. Don't miss the broccoli with garlic, fried bean curd, shrimp jaozi, or steamed pork buns. And while I know no one in China is looking to get famous off of fried rice, I loved the pork-fried rice at Heichinrou. It had little bits of pork, fried egg and green onion and came in sweet ceramic cups. Load up on Jasmine tea and get ready for your next adventure.

Shop 1003, 10th Floor Times Square; 1 Matheson Street
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Sabatini
I'm recommending Sabatini to you because it's so utterly odd I wouldn't want you to miss it--and, of course, the food is great. It's in The Royal Garden Hotel, and they actually have pseudo-table side Mariachi music…yes, in an Italian restaurant in the middle of Hong Kong. It’s strange but it kind of works somehow. Given that most of the diners were tourists and business clientele, they know pretty much any English song you throw at them (although I will say they weren’t familiar with Lady Gaga). Sabatini's food is your classic Italian fare, with a nice seafood and pasta menu and a lovely antipasto bar. The original Sabtini opened in Rome in 1952, and this is one of two other locations. There's only so many dumplings and barbecued pork a person can eat, so when you find yourself in Hong Kong and need a break, sometimes a big plate of pasta is just the thing. Sabatini does that well.
69 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East
Kowloon, Hong Kong

Stands at Temple Street
Ah, Temple Street. This is the nighttime market hawking fake watches, handbags, and an odd collection of other items like batteries, fans, socks, baseball caps and the like. I think it's worthwhile to take a quick turn just to see it, and before you go, hit up one of the fruit stands at the far end by the food area. Here you can get a variety of local fruit juices and coconut waters. Nothing tastes better after slugging through the crowded, steamy market. Try both the young coconut and regular coconut--young coconut tends to be smaller and sweeter.

All in all, our trip was far too brief but we managed to pack it in, food-wise. I loved the variety, the spice, the unexpected cosmopolitan nature of many of the restaurants, and the graciousness of the chefs and waitstaff. I'm already compiling a list for a future trip when, perhaps, we can pack in more than a mere six days.

Fri, Oct 17, 2008
The California Report
Host: Stephanie Martin

Melamine-Tainted Cookies
Food safety experts say one of the most serious issues concerning the appearance of melamine-tainted foods from China lies in finding what's contaminated -- and getting it off the market. We bought samples of popular Chinese-made cookies and had them tested for melamine. The results? Positive.
Reporters:
• Oanh Ha

Listen to the program

Mon, Oct 20, 2008
The California Report
Host: Rachael Myrow

Melamine Cookie Recall
We reported on Friday that our testing of a popular snack sold in California came back positive for the industrial chemical melamine. Lotte USA, the Michigan distributor of Koala's March cookies, has now announced through the FDA that it's recalling the product nationwide.
Reporters:
• Oanh Ha

Listen to the program

Nicole Mones reads an excerpt from The Last Chinese Chef on KQED's Writer's Block.

The Last Chinese Chef chronicles food writer, Maggie McElroy's journey to China one year after the untimely death of her husband. A paternity claim has been filed against her husband's estate and the question surfaces whether her husband fathered a child while he was working in Beijing. While Maggie plans her China trip to unravel the truth about her husband she is offered the opportunity to profile a rising star chef, Sam Liang. This culinary distraction turns into a life-changing healing experience.

Nicole Mones is the author of the award winning novel Lost in Translation and A Cup of Light. Since 1999 Mones has written about Chinese food for Gourmet magazine, covering the food scene in Beijing, Shanghai, and the San Gabriel Valley, east of Los Angeles. Her work has also appeared in the Los Angeles Times and the Washington Post.

Here are two recipes with associated excerpts from The Last Chinese Chef:

Beggar's Chicken
When Wu Xunqu, chief chef at Lou Wai Lou, divulged this recipe, he cautioned that it was most but not all of the recipe, since he had a few secret ingredients he wanted to keep to himself. He also insisted on starting with the life of the chicken. This is one of the poultry cooking secrets of Chinese haute cuisine: the last two weeks of a chicken's life must be spent outdoors, running free.

Ingredients & Preparation
1. At home, however, you may start with a whole chicken, cleaned, and 4-6 whole lotus leaves, soaked 20 minutes in warm water.

2. Create 3-4 Cups of concentrated soup broth from pork bone, beef bone, ham, chicken feet, onion, ginger, meiling soy sauce (it's a tiny bit sour).

3. When cool, combine with rice wine, starch powder, white pepper, salt, and a little soy. Marinate chicken 30 minutes.

4. Remove the chicken to wrap in soaked lotus leaves, first pouring over and inside one cup of the marinade (fortified with extra slivered ham, other cooked meats left from the soup, and/or soaked, slivered mushrooms).

5. Follow a layer of lotus with a layer of parchment and then another layer of lotus. Use plastic style baking bags and a foil wrap to create a tight seal.

6. Roast at 400 degrees for 1/2 hour, then at 350 degrees for up to 3 1/2 hours, depending on the bird's size and age.

-courtesy Wu Xunqu

Excerpt about Beggar's Chicken from The Last Chinese Chef:

"Then the beggar's chicken. It looked at first like a foil-wrapped whole bird, but he undid it, folded back layers of crinkly baking bags, and broke the seal on a tight molded wrap of lotus leaves. A magnificently herbed chicken aroma rushed into the air. Maggie couldn't wait. She picked up a mouthful of chicken that fell away from the carcass and into her chopsticks at a touch. It was moist and dense with profound flavor, the good nourishment of chicken, first marinated,then spiked with the bits of aromatic vegetable and salt-cured ham which had been stuffed in the cavity and were now all over the bird. Shot through everything was the pungent musk of the lotus leaf. At once she knew she should write about this place. She should give this recipe, catch the glorious bustle of this restaurant, describe these tall windows looking over the lake and virgin green hills beyond."

Pork Spare Ribs in Lotus Leaf
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 lb pork spare ribs
2 dried lotus leaves
rice powder scented with 5-spice

Seasonings
2 Tablespoons chopped scallion
1 Tablespoons chopped ginger
1 Tablespoon each soy sauce, oil, sugar, soybean paste
1/2 Tablespoon sesame oil

Preparation
1. Cut spare ribs into pieces 1 1/2 inch wide, 2 inches long, then marinate in seasonings 1/2 hour.

2. Cut lotus leaves into eight pieces and soak in hot water 20 minutes.

3. Remove marinated ribs and discard scallion and ginger.

4. Add rice powder and thoroughly mix with rib pieces.

5. Divide ribs into eight small portions.

6. Place each on a soaked lotus leaf, fold and roll to make a package.

7. Place with the smooth side down in a bowl or deep plate.

8. Steam over high heat for two hours until tender.

9. Put a serving plate face down over the bowl and turn over.

Excerpt about Pork Spare Ribs in Lotus Leaf from The Last Chinese Chef:

"Inside the leaves, the rib meat came away under their chopsticks, rich and lean and long-cooked with a soft crust of scented rice powder. Underneath, the darker, more complicated flavor of the meat, the marrow, and the aromatics. Maggie thought it was
wonderful. She ate everything except the rib bones, which she nibbled clean and folded back up, polished, inside the leaf. She wished she could lick the leaf, it was so good.
But Sam, watching Uncle Xie's face, said, 'You think the scallion and ginger are too strong.'
'This is a dish of refinement,' said Xie. 'Sophistication and subtlety are what is most important, not the peaks of flavor. Every flavor must be a play on texture, while every texture suggests a flavor. You can be rustic, but never coarse. Always believe in the intelligence of the diner. Always reward them with subtlety.'"

Recipes for Beggar's Chicken and Pork Spare Ribs in Lotus Leaf (pdf)