A Cookbook Map Reveals What's Hot In American Regional Cuisine
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Map: Amazon\" width=\"839\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Region by region, Amazon food editors found the favorite cookbooks from across America. Map: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=7331307011\">Amazon\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by April Fulton, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/29/307770050/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/29/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From upstate New York's heirloom veggie craze to the Pacific Northwest's baking boom, regional fare is taking off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with zillions of cookbooks coming out every year, how do you figure out which culinary jewels will be worth your precious time and shelf space?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amazon, that giant aggregator of all things, breaks down about 500 regional cookbooks into manageable bites by curating what it considers the best of its vast collection. With the click of a mouse, you can explore them through the interactive \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=7331307011\">Great American Eats map\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hone in on the frying pans to browse by region and then further refine your search by author and whether you want new, coming soon, used, collectible, hardcover or paperbacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mari Malcolm, Amazon Books food editor, says she learned a few things putting the map together. For example, while California is a healthful hub of juicing how-to's and guides to going gluten-free, it's also a place where cookbook authors obsess over fatty meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's lots of charcuterie coming out of California,\" Malcolm says, like \u003cem>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/em> and the new \u003cem>Charcutería: The Soul of Spain\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Sausage Making: The Definitive Guide With Recipes\u003c/em>, which is due out May 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while we're on the subject of meat, it's pretty much tops in Texas. The Lone Star state's best cookbooks are \"a lot of what you would expect, with barbecue and paleo [diet books],\" she says. But \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Recipes-My-Home-Kitchen-MasterChef/dp/1623360943/ref=lp_7449751011_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398781285&sr=1-11\">Christine Ha\u003c/a>'s \u003cem>Recipes from My Home Kitchen: Asian and American Comfort Food \u003c/em>is a fan favorite. Ha won Season 3 of \"MasterChef\" on Fox and lives in Houston.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most prolific region for new cookbooks in recent years is the South, with 152 books — think \u003cem>Bobby Deen's Everyday Eats\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The New Southern Table. \u003c/em>It's followed closely by the mid-Atlantic, which boasts 105 of the 500 cookbooks on the list, including the coffee-table worthy Beekman Boys' latest, \u003cem>The Beekman 1802 Heirlook Vegetable Cookbook,\u003c/em> and new contributions from celebs Ina Garten, Mark Bittman and Lidia Bastianich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up north in New England, it's history and science-y tomes from America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To develop the map, Malcolm started with books she personally liked, then James Beard and International Association of Culinary Professionals award winners, then historically significant ones like Fannie Farmer and the quintessential African American \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Cooking-Pickles-Preserves-Classic/dp/1440035504/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398781766&sr=1-1&keywords=What+Mrs.+Fisher+Knows+About+Cooking\">contribution\u003c/a> from the 19th century: \u003cem>What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, Soups, Pickles, Preserves, Etc\u003c/em>. Then she threw in highly-rated reader favorites. \"Editorial selection criteria didn't have anything to do with sales,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the map, Amazon says, more American cookbooks these days are incorporating food with once obscure ingredients and a global edge, be it Asian, Middle Eastern or Latin. \"There's a lot of international cooking ... across the country,\" Malcom says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Amazon Books has curated an interactive map that shows who's invigorating regional cooking. And there are some surprises: Texas is moving beyond barbecue, while charcuterie is cool in California.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1398807519,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":523},"headData":{"title":"A Cookbook Map Reveals What's Hot In American Regional Cuisine | KQED","description":"Amazon Books has curated an interactive map that shows who's invigorating regional cooking. And there are some surprises: Texas is moving beyond barbecue, while charcuterie is cool in California.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Cookbook Map Reveals What's Hot In American Regional Cuisine","datePublished":"2014-04-29T21:37:22.000Z","dateModified":"2014-04-29T21:38:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"81049 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=81049","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/29/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine/","disqusTitle":"A Cookbook Map Reveals What's Hot In American Regional Cuisine","nprByline":"April Fulton","nprStoryId":"307770050","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=307770050&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/29/307770050/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine?ft=3&f=307770050","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 29 Apr 2014 15:31:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 29 Apr 2014 15:19:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 29 Apr 2014 15:31:15 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/81049/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81050\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 839px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/screen-shot-2014-04-28-at-5.48.47-pm-841599db5dc357980ec63203438f716e10b8a0d6.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/screen-shot-2014-04-28-at-5.48.47-pm-841599db5dc357980ec63203438f716e10b8a0d6.png\" alt=\"Region by region, Amazon food editors found the favorite cookbooks from across America. Map: Amazon\" width=\"839\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Region by region, Amazon food editors found the favorite cookbooks from across America. Map: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=7331307011\">Amazon\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by April Fulton, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/29/307770050/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/29/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From upstate New York's heirloom veggie craze to the Pacific Northwest's baking boom, regional fare is taking off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with zillions of cookbooks coming out every year, how do you figure out which culinary jewels will be worth your precious time and shelf space?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amazon, that giant aggregator of all things, breaks down about 500 regional cookbooks into manageable bites by curating what it considers the best of its vast collection. With the click of a mouse, you can explore them through the interactive \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=7331307011\">Great American Eats map\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hone in on the frying pans to browse by region and then further refine your search by author and whether you want new, coming soon, used, collectible, hardcover or paperbacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mari Malcolm, Amazon Books food editor, says she learned a few things putting the map together. For example, while California is a healthful hub of juicing how-to's and guides to going gluten-free, it's also a place where cookbook authors obsess over fatty meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's lots of charcuterie coming out of California,\" Malcolm says, like \u003cem>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/em> and the new \u003cem>Charcutería: The Soul of Spain\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Sausage Making: The Definitive Guide With Recipes\u003c/em>, which is due out May 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while we're on the subject of meat, it's pretty much tops in Texas. The Lone Star state's best cookbooks are \"a lot of what you would expect, with barbecue and paleo [diet books],\" she says. But \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Recipes-My-Home-Kitchen-MasterChef/dp/1623360943/ref=lp_7449751011_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398781285&sr=1-11\">Christine Ha\u003c/a>'s \u003cem>Recipes from My Home Kitchen: Asian and American Comfort Food \u003c/em>is a fan favorite. Ha won Season 3 of \"MasterChef\" on Fox and lives in Houston.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most prolific region for new cookbooks in recent years is the South, with 152 books — think \u003cem>Bobby Deen's Everyday Eats\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The New Southern Table. \u003c/em>It's followed closely by the mid-Atlantic, which boasts 105 of the 500 cookbooks on the list, including the coffee-table worthy Beekman Boys' latest, \u003cem>The Beekman 1802 Heirlook Vegetable Cookbook,\u003c/em> and new contributions from celebs Ina Garten, Mark Bittman and Lidia Bastianich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up north in New England, it's history and science-y tomes from America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To develop the map, Malcolm started with books she personally liked, then James Beard and International Association of Culinary Professionals award winners, then historically significant ones like Fannie Farmer and the quintessential African American \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Cooking-Pickles-Preserves-Classic/dp/1440035504/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398781766&sr=1-1&keywords=What+Mrs.+Fisher+Knows+About+Cooking\">contribution\u003c/a> from the 19th century: \u003cem>What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, Soups, Pickles, Preserves, Etc\u003c/em>. Then she threw in highly-rated reader favorites. \"Editorial selection criteria didn't have anything to do with sales,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the map, Amazon says, more American cookbooks these days are incorporating food with once obscure ingredients and a global edge, be it Asian, Middle Eastern or Latin. \"There's a lot of international cooking ... across the country,\" Malcom says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/81049/a-cookbook-map-reveals-whats-hot-in-american-regional-cuisine","authors":["byline_bayareabites_81049"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_11781","bayareabites_2250","bayareabites_1289","bayareabites_250","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_11239","bayareabites_13292","bayareabites_3156","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_81050","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_70428":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_70428","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"70428","score":null,"sort":[1379521456000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen","title":"The Fatted Calf's New Cookbook Brings Charcuterie Favorites Into Your Kitchen","publishDate":1379521456,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DIY charcuterie is, admittedly, not something every home cook is dying to tackle. On top of the fact that there is equipment to buy and meat to source, there is something magical about well-made sausages, terrines, and confits that makes them seem out of reach for the average kitchen weekend warrior. With the arrival of their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Charcuterie-Sausage-Confits/dp/1607743434\">\u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the acclaimed husband-and-wife duo from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>, aim to change that perception.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\" alt=\"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"647\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller’s book is at once a glossy showpiece, a culinary reference, and a hands-on cookbook. Like most cookbooks coming out of \u003ca href=\"http://crownpublishing.com/imprint/ten-speed-press/\">Ten Speed Press\u003c/a>, it is beautifully designed and photographed; in addition, it is hard to flip through a few pages without learning something. “We wanted it to be, you know, a good reference point for people’s culinary adventures and for it to be...a way of thinking about food and how certain flavors work together,” said Boetticher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller started the Fatted Calf back in 2003. At first, their charcuterie operation was small-scale and focused only on selling at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecologycenter.org/fm/\">Saturday Berkeley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>. Each worked part-time jobs—Boetticher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lanesplitterpizza.com/\">Lanesplitter Pizza\u003c/a> in West Berkeley and Miller at \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonehouseoliveoil.com/\">Stonehouse Olive Oil\u003c/a> in the Ferry Plaza—to support their fledgling business. Once they were admitted into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets\">Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>, their business really picked up and they decided it was time to open a brick-and-mortar shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair knew they wanted to stay within a public market context. The Ferry Building was all booked up, but there was an opening at the newly emerging \u003ca href=\"http://oxbowpublicmarket.com/\">Oxbow Public Market\u003c/a> in Napa. It was a “huge life change” but in the end, Boetticher said, it was the right move. The Fatted Calf store opened up at the end of January 2008, just in time for the stock market to tumble. “In hindsight, it made me stronger, but at the time it was absolutely terrifying,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\" alt=\"A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70454\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the hard opening, Boetticher and Miller’s store has proven to be wildly successful. Right around the time that they were opening up their Hayes Valley store, the pair started talking to Ten Speed about putting together a cookbook. “At this point we had developed enough recipes, we worked with enough good vendors, and we also had enough really good staff working with us that we would be able to step away for a day or so a week,” Boetticher said. “It was something that Toponia and I had wanted to do for a long time. We didn’t know what it was going to be [yet], but after making charcuterie for this amount of time, it seemed to make sense.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, they had found a good team over at Ten Speed that was willing to let Boetticher and Miller shape an untraditional meat cookbook. Despite the fact that there are close to 40 pages detailing the precise method for breaking down cows, pigs, goats, lambs, rabbits, ducks, and chickens, \u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em> is not a particularly masculine book. As Boetticher explained, “We didn’t want it to be a dude food, ‘Let's throw a ton of animals on the fire’ kind of thing. We wanted it to have a little bit more of a refined sensibility.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\" alt=\"Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book, like the philosophy of the shop itself, strays away from the more modernist trends in cooking. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sousvidesupreme.com/\">Immersion circulators\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vitamix.com/\">Vitamixes\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacojet.com/en/\">PacoJets\u003c/a> are not required. Instead, the recipes blend classic French technique with updated flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This emphasis on traditional methods helps to keep the book accessible. Yes, some recipes, like the headcheese or blood sausage, require a great deal of work and many days of commitment. However, many of the others (like the recipes featured below) require little more than a knife, some string, and patience. Natural kitchen skills are not necessarily required. To the Fatted Calf duo, making charcuterie is “more about preparation and planning than it is about raw talent or being a natural genius at something. It’s a lot more important than having a natural palate or having a good touch with a boning knife.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the two clearly recognize that great charcuterie takes practice. The recipes are written in great detail, with encouragement and experimentation in mind. Boetticher noted, “One of the things we try to hammer home a lot is that these things take practice, and not to get discouraged if your first efforts don’t go the way you intended them to. But also that if you pay attention and you take the time you need and you don’t take shortcuts, then your food will be phenomenal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what of those complex terrines and fermented sausages, you ask? How can an ordinary home cook tackle projects that large? Boetticher recommends a charcuterie party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> “Because [charcuterie] is pretty labor intensive, it’s [a good thing] to do with friends or with family, whether it’s making a two pound batch of sausage or cutting up a whole hog for the freezer. It really fosters a sense of community.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003ch3>Events:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Saturday September 21, 3pm (Free)\u003cbr>\nBook signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday September 22, 11am ($50 with copy of book, $35 without book)\u003cbr>\nTasting and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/fetes/book-signing-with-fatted-calf/\">Robert Sinskey Vineyards\u003c/a>, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Napa Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AM3dKN\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n644 C First Street\u003cbr>\nNapa, CA 94559\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (707) 256-3684\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/77UK8v\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Fell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 400-5614\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FattedCalf\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FattedCalf\">@FattedCalf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70453\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Chock-full of greens, this simple pork shoulder pot roast, made with Boston butt, makes a nourishing and comforting supper. Abundant, leafy Swiss chard tends to be available year-round and is the standard for this stuffing, but it is equally good made with spinach, mustard, kale, or other seasonal greens.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 whole boneless, skinless pork Boston butt, about 8 pounds (3.6 kg)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bunches Swiss chard or other leafy greens, stemmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (85 g) chopped toasted walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) pork, chicken, or duck broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) cups dry red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>One day in advance of cooking, season and ready the roast for stuffing. First, make the pocket for the stuffing by making a horizontal cut through the middle of the roast, following the seam where the bone was removed. Leave one of the four edges completely intact. Open the roast like a book. Season liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Close the book, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the roast from the refrigerator and allow it to temper for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the chard leaves and blanch for about 2 minutes. Drain and let cool, then squeeze out any excess water. Chop the chard coarsely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Open the pork shoulder like a book, with the intact edge on your left. Arrange the chard in the center of the roast in a neat layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border uncovered surrounding it. Distribute the garlic evenly over the chard, followed by the walnuts. Fold the top part of the roast over the stuffing and tie tightly with butcher’s twine in three places, spacing the loops evenly and reinforcing the book shape.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Outfit a large braiser with a rack. Place the pork shoulder, fatty side facing up, on the rack. (If you don’t have a rack that fits your pot, halve a few leeks lengthwise, place them on the bottom of the pot, and put the roast on the leeks; they will support the roast nicely during cooking.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the pot to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully pour off the rendered fat. Reserve these pan drippings for another use. Add the broth and wine to the pot and return it to the oven. Turn down the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C) and continue to cook, basting the roast every 30 minutes, for about 21/2 hours. The roast is ready when it is a rich golden brown, fork-tender, and a bit wobbly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let it rest for 20 minutes. Snip the twine and cut the roast into thick slices. Bathe each serving with a spoonful of the cooking juices.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70452\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ras el hanout is a classic North African spice blend. Loosely translated it means “head of the shop,” symbolizing the best the spice merchant has to offer. Traditionally, the blend contains a panorama of different spices, usually about twenty but sometimes many more, and each merchant has his or her own recipe. Although we generally advocate toasting and grinding your own spices, we love the perfectly balanced blend available from our neighbors at Whole Spice in Napa. In their version, allspice, bay leaf, black pepper, white pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, chile, clove, cumin, ginger, mace, nutmeg, saffron, rosebuds, and more are carefully combined and ground to produce a truly aromatic mix perfect for seasoning lamb.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>8 lamb rib chops\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 dried bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon thinly sliced orange rind\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large, shallow bowl, combine the garlic, bay, orange rind, and olive oil and mix well. Add the lamb chops to the bowl and turn as needed to coat evenly. Sprinkle the \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em> over the lamb chops and again turn as needed to coat evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chops, prepare a medium-hot fire for direct-heat grilling in a charcoal grill. Place the chops on the grill grate directly over the coals and grill, turning them once, for about 2 minutes on each side for rare or about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare to medium. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Alternatively, to cook on the stove top, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook, turning often, for about 5 to 7 minutes total. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from In the Charcuterie by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the husband-and-wife team behind Napa and S.F.'s Fatted Calf, released their first cookbook this week. Boetticher sat down with BAB's Kate Williams to talk the ins-and-outs of butchery and book publication.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1379566044,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1938},"headData":{"title":"The Fatted Calf's New Cookbook Brings Charcuterie Favorites Into Your Kitchen | KQED","description":"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the husband-and-wife team behind Napa and S.F.'s Fatted Calf, released their first cookbook this week. Boetticher sat down with BAB's Kate Williams to talk the ins-and-outs of butchery and book publication.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Fatted Calf's New Cookbook Brings Charcuterie Favorites Into Your Kitchen","datePublished":"2013-09-18T16:24:16.000Z","dateModified":"2013-09-19T04:47:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"70428 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=70428","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"The Fatted Calf's New Cookbook Brings Charcuterie Favorites Into Your Kitchen","path":"/bayareabites/70428/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70450\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This fantastically detailed cookbook from celebrated Fatted Calf chefs Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller comes out this week. Cover Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DIY charcuterie is, admittedly, not something every home cook is dying to tackle. On top of the fact that there is equipment to buy and meat to source, there is something magical about well-made sausages, terrines, and confits that makes them seem out of reach for the average kitchen weekend warrior. With the arrival of their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Charcuterie-Sausage-Confits/dp/1607743434\">\u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the acclaimed husband-and-wife duo from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>, aim to change that perception.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/boetticher-and-miller.jpg\" alt=\"Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"647\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70465\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Photo: Jessica Goodson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller’s book is at once a glossy showpiece, a culinary reference, and a hands-on cookbook. Like most cookbooks coming out of \u003ca href=\"http://crownpublishing.com/imprint/ten-speed-press/\">Ten Speed Press\u003c/a>, it is beautifully designed and photographed; in addition, it is hard to flip through a few pages without learning something. “We wanted it to be, you know, a good reference point for people’s culinary adventures and for it to be...a way of thinking about food and how certain flavors work together,” said Boetticher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boetticher and Miller started the Fatted Calf back in 2003. At first, their charcuterie operation was small-scale and focused only on selling at the \u003ca href=\"http://ecologycenter.org/fm/\">Saturday Berkeley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>. Each worked part-time jobs—Boetticher at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lanesplitterpizza.com/\">Lanesplitter Pizza\u003c/a> in West Berkeley and Miller at \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonehouseoliveoil.com/\">Stonehouse Olive Oil\u003c/a> in the Ferry Plaza—to support their fledgling business. Once they were admitted into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets\">Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>, their business really picked up and they decided it was time to open a brick-and-mortar shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pair knew they wanted to stay within a public market context. The Ferry Building was all booked up, but there was an opening at the newly emerging \u003ca href=\"http://oxbowpublicmarket.com/\">Oxbow Public Market\u003c/a> in Napa. It was a “huge life change” but in the end, Boetticher said, it was the right move. The Fatted Calf store opened up at the end of January 2008, just in time for the stock market to tumble. “In hindsight, it made me stronger, but at the time it was absolutely terrifying,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/salad-with-gizzards1.jpg\" alt=\"A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70454\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicory salad featuring the Fatted Calf’s duck gizzard confit was served at the book’s launch event in Napa. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the hard opening, Boetticher and Miller’s store has proven to be wildly successful. Right around the time that they were opening up their Hayes Valley store, the pair started talking to Ten Speed about putting together a cookbook. “At this point we had developed enough recipes, we worked with enough good vendors, and we also had enough really good staff working with us that we would be able to step away for a day or so a week,” Boetticher said. “It was something that Toponia and I had wanted to do for a long time. We didn’t know what it was going to be [yet], but after making charcuterie for this amount of time, it seemed to make sense.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, they had found a good team over at Ten Speed that was willing to let Boetticher and Miller shape an untraditional meat cookbook. Despite the fact that there are close to 40 pages detailing the precise method for breaking down cows, pigs, goats, lambs, rabbits, ducks, and chickens, \u003cem>In the Charcuterie\u003c/em> is not a particularly masculine book. As Boetticher explained, “We didn’t want it to be a dude food, ‘Let's throw a ton of animals on the fire’ kind of thing. We wanted it to have a little bit more of a refined sensibility.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70451\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/fig-stuffed-quail1.jpg\" alt=\"Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70451\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boetticher and Miller’s recipe for fig and sausage stuffed quail, which is a hit in their stores, is included in the cookbook. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The book, like the philosophy of the shop itself, strays away from the more modernist trends in cooking. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sousvidesupreme.com/\">Immersion circulators\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vitamix.com/\">Vitamixes\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacojet.com/en/\">PacoJets\u003c/a> are not required. Instead, the recipes blend classic French technique with updated flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This emphasis on traditional methods helps to keep the book accessible. Yes, some recipes, like the headcheese or blood sausage, require a great deal of work and many days of commitment. However, many of the others (like the recipes featured below) require little more than a knife, some string, and patience. Natural kitchen skills are not necessarily required. To the Fatted Calf duo, making charcuterie is “more about preparation and planning than it is about raw talent or being a natural genius at something. It’s a lot more important than having a natural palate or having a good touch with a boning knife.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the two clearly recognize that great charcuterie takes practice. The recipes are written in great detail, with encouragement and experimentation in mind. Boetticher noted, “One of the things we try to hammer home a lot is that these things take practice, and not to get discouraged if your first efforts don’t go the way you intended them to. But also that if you pay attention and you take the time you need and you don’t take shortcuts, then your food will be phenomenal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what of those complex terrines and fermented sausages, you ask? How can an ordinary home cook tackle projects that large? Boetticher recommends a charcuterie party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> “Because [charcuterie] is pretty labor intensive, it’s [a good thing] to do with friends or with family, whether it’s making a two pound batch of sausage or cutting up a whole hog for the freezer. It really fosters a sense of community.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003ch3>Events:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Saturday September 21, 3pm (Free)\u003cbr>\nBook signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco, CA 94131\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday September 22, 11am ($50 with copy of book, $35 without book)\u003cbr>\nTasting and book signing at \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertsinskey.com/fetes/book-signing-with-fatted-calf/\">Robert Sinskey Vineyards\u003c/a>, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Information:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Napa Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/AM3dKN\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n644 C First Street\u003cbr>\nNapa, CA 94559\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (707) 256-3684\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>San Francisco Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/77UK8v\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Fell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 400-5614\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FattedCalf\">Fatted Calf Charcuterie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/FattedCalf\">@FattedCalf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Pork-Shoulder-Pot-Roast-Stuffed-with-Garlic.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70453\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Shoulder Pot Roast with Garlic. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Chock-full of greens, this simple pork shoulder pot roast, made with Boston butt, makes a nourishing and comforting supper. Abundant, leafy Swiss chard tends to be available year-round and is the standard for this stuffing, but it is equally good made with spinach, mustard, kale, or other seasonal greens.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 whole boneless, skinless pork Boston butt, about 8 pounds (3.6 kg)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 bunches Swiss chard or other leafy greens, stemmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>10 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (85 g) chopped toasted walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) pork, chicken, or duck broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (360 ml) cups dry red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>One day in advance of cooking, season and ready the roast for stuffing. First, make the pocket for the stuffing by making a horizontal cut through the middle of the roast, following the seam where the bone was removed. Leave one of the four edges completely intact. Open the roast like a book. Season liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Close the book, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the roast from the refrigerator and allow it to temper for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the chard leaves and blanch for about 2 minutes. Drain and let cool, then squeeze out any excess water. Chop the chard coarsely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Open the pork shoulder like a book, with the intact edge on your left. Arrange the chard in the center of the roast in a neat layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border uncovered surrounding it. Distribute the garlic evenly over the chard, followed by the walnuts. Fold the top part of the roast over the stuffing and tie tightly with butcher’s twine in three places, spacing the loops evenly and reinforcing the book shape.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Outfit a large braiser with a rack. Place the pork shoulder, fatty side facing up, on the rack. (If you don’t have a rack that fits your pot, halve a few leeks lengthwise, place them on the bottom of the pot, and put the roast on the leeks; they will support the roast nicely during cooking.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the pot to the oven and roast for about 45 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully pour off the rendered fat. Reserve these pan drippings for another use. Add the broth and wine to the pot and return it to the oven. Turn down the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C) and continue to cook, basting the roast every 30 minutes, for about 21/2 hours. The roast is ready when it is a rich golden brown, fork-tender, and a bit wobbly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let it rest for 20 minutes. Snip the twine and cut the roast into thick slices. Bathe each serving with a spoonful of the cooking juices.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Lamb-Rib-Chops-with-Ras-el-Hanout.jpg\" alt=\"Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\" width=\"600\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70452\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout. Photo: Alex Farnum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ras el hanout is a classic North African spice blend. Loosely translated it means “head of the shop,” symbolizing the best the spice merchant has to offer. Traditionally, the blend contains a panorama of different spices, usually about twenty but sometimes many more, and each merchant has his or her own recipe. Although we generally advocate toasting and grinding your own spices, we love the perfectly balanced blend available from our neighbors at Whole Spice in Napa. In their version, allspice, bay leaf, black pepper, white pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, chile, clove, cumin, ginger, mace, nutmeg, saffron, rosebuds, and more are carefully combined and ground to produce a truly aromatic mix perfect for seasoning lamb.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>8 lamb rib chops\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 dried bay leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon thinly sliced orange rind\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large, shallow bowl, combine the garlic, bay, orange rind, and olive oil and mix well. Add the lamb chops to the bowl and turn as needed to coat evenly. Sprinkle the \u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em> over the lamb chops and again turn as needed to coat evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To grill the chops, prepare a medium-hot fire for direct-heat grilling in a charcoal grill. Place the chops on the grill grate directly over the coals and grill, turning them once, for about 2 minutes on each side for rare or about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare to medium. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Alternatively, to cook on the stove top, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook, turning often, for about 5 to 7 minutes total. Serve at once.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from In the Charcuterie by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/70428/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen","authors":["5485"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1596","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_12419","bayareabites_12145","bayareabites_12420","bayareabites_12144"],"featImg":"bayareabites_70461","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_66883":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_66883","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"66883","score":null,"sort":[1376578801000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pig-woman-knife-butchery-with-bailie-at-fatted-calf","title":"Pig + Woman + Knife: Butchery with Bailie at Fatted Calf ","publishDate":1376578801,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (R) and guests. Photo: Ryan Harri\" width=\"720\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (R) and guests. Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Heather Bailie—widely known as Bailie—is a Bay Area charcuterie and meat expert via her work as a butcher, operations manager and partner for Fatted Calf, the meat emporium with shops in Napa and San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> sells meat from smaller family farms, alongside handcrafted (and delectable) pates, beef jerky, terrines, sausage, bacon and salumi (pancetta \u003cem>tesa\u003c/em>, salame Toscano, and a personal favorite: an herby roll of cured pork belly). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bailie currently lives in Napa and has a meaty side project called \u003ca href=\"http://pigwomanknife.com/\">Pig + Woman + Knife\u003c/a>, which has two components. The Pig + Woman + Knife blog demystifies meat buying and butchery, and has photos and tips. She also takes the Pig + Woman + Knife meat knowledge directly to people by giving butchery classes and hands-on demonstrations for smaller groups. Yes, women can take her classes, but she also teaches groups with both genders. Baile told Bay Area Bites that she helps at “Pig Parties” for her friends, and will bring her hacksaw and knives to break down a pig and, say, help the group make sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Her reasons for creating Pig + Woman + Knife:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Stemmed from my experience working with the \"fathers\" of the Bay Area butchery and charcuterie scene. During my culinary upbringing, I was fortunate to work alongside some very talented meat masters, all of whom inspired me to keep a knife in my hand. This interest in butchery, paired with a background in animal right's activism, a degree in Women's Studies and a strong urge to do something creative, led me to create Pig + Woman + Knife.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What started as a simple blog to share knowledge with other women cooks and build community through cutting meat, eventually evolved into an educational site to reach a much broader audience—from home butchers to professionals alike. This website is devoted to showing people how buying whole animals (or rather large pieces of one) and learning a few skills will save money and time and can be a fun hobby! Going whole animal also supports local family farms and small businesses. I hope viewing this site helps to take the intimidation and confusion out of buying meat, clearly demonstrates what to do with it and inspires you to learn some traditional preparations and cooking techniques.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> [youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa1otNuqVlE]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baile has a degree from the California Culinary Academy and did restaurant work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Acquerello\u003c/a> and Ubuntu before “stalking” Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the husband and wife team behind Fatted Calf. Bailie has an animal activist background and was a “card carrying PETA member and vegetarian.” Her gateway meat to break her vegetarian diet did eventually come: a late night drive-thru meal of a Jack in the Box hamburger caused her to indulge a strong meat craving with a friend. Bailie now eats slices of mortadella for breakfast daily and samples meat freely for work and pleasure. Bay Area Bites caught up with Bailie recently while she butchered at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/classes/\">Fatted Calf Butcher's Happy Hour\u003c/a> on a Wednesday night with Ren Rossini in San Francisco. We first talked in Napa at the Oxbow Market. Her comments have been edited for clarity and grammar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s the biggest challenge in your work at Fatted Calf?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> In my position, I’m dealing with people, products and things changing all the time. Examples: a pig that I ordered two weeks ago will arrive thirty pounds smaller. Or a lamb I need is one day late. Or someone forgets to communicate a special order. There’s also business stuff and situations like staff turnover to handle. I try to deal with things, be a leader, not get pissed off and act with a level of coolness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve taught classes for Fatted Calf and CUESA, work the Fatted Calf Butcher’s Happy Hour and do butchery demos at both locations. Did Pig + Woman + Knife grow out of those experiences?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> It is a passion of mine teaching women. There are a lot of women in the industry who will come to me and say things like, “The guys don’t let me break down lamb.” So I will show them how. As much as I can, I give back. There are women who taught me all that stuff and it’s fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67291\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife2.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (center) working on a whole pig with class guests Photo: Ryan Harris\" width=\"720\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67291\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (center) working on a whole pig with class guests Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The Fatted Calf has a cookbook coming out in September. What’s that like? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> It’s been a good ride. There will be a book tour in the East Bay, in California and New York. We’re all really excited about that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You have mentors that have helped you. Teaching classes for others, have you become a mentor yourself?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie: \u003c/strong>It’s been fun and I’ve mentored Ren. I don’t just help females, I’ll help any employee or person who may not have known they have a flair for knives and butchery. When that shows up, it means they’ve got a knack for breaking things down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be the opposite, too—when people are not good behind the knife, we find something else for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Like what?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> Usually it means they are good at talking with the customers and describing the product, or passionate about farms and sustainability. It could be that they can be the person who wraps the beef jerky (laughs). Or that sign you’re looking at, that details the specials, I could never do that. But someone who is an art major is good at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you find that someone who is good with butchery has a certain strength, or maybe height? Or some sort of personality skill set?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> You’ll see they have a natural intuition and an understanding of how to look at muscles and seams. Ren was really good at watching what we did. People like that do well because they are perceptive. We can train and show them. When people come here from somewhere else, they may have training, so we’ll need to show them our way of doing things. That transition is fairly easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67292\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife3.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (R) doing knife work for a butchery class. Photo: Ryan Harris\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67292\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (R) doing knife work for a butchery class. Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What is it like to make salumi at Fatted Calf?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie: \u003c/strong>A lot of the salumi has been here two to six months. The small guys in the middle usually cure in two months. The larger ones usually take anywhere from three to four months. It all depends on temperature and humidity. When it’s hotter, we notice a fluctuation. The process is monitored day by day. I come in here and I spray and move things around and feel it. If it’s too dry, I’ll spray with water to get moisture. Or if it’s too moist in here, I’ll open the door. We do have it regulated with a machine but sometimes I like to be in here and know what’s going on -- feel it, taste it, know what’s going on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There has to be quality control and mold has a distinct flavor. You can sometimes smell if there’s something ‘not awesome’ going on -- a bad mold or ammonia smell, something like that. You want to stop that when it happens. You have to smell it, taste it and see it and use your olfactory senses to keep everything going. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What role can Fatted Calf play in the consumer marketplace?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> Compared to other meat markets in the Bay Area, we’re really on the lower end of things, price-wise. That’s because we can get away with a high-quality product and not gouge people. We maintain our inventory and our costs. Ideally, I don’t want Fatted Calf to be seen as the place to go for a special occasion purchase. I want the market to be an alternative to shopping at Safeway and buying a pork loin for $1.99. Instead the customer is going to get something really nice from Fatted Calf and they will spend a little bit more but they will know that they're supporting a different system and going against the grain. There’s just more awareness about knowing where your meat comes from these days. Eating a little bit less meat while being more conscientious—knowing where you spend your dollar—that right there, is a political act. I’ve definitely seen a change.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bailie is the woman behind Pig + Woman + Knife, which gives hunters, home and restaurant cooks hands-on knowledge and tutorials on breaking down pig, duck and lamb. Bailie practices her butchery and charcuterie craft while working at Fatted Calf, which has locations in San Francisco and Napa.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1376690636,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1488},"headData":{"title":"Pig + Woman + Knife: Butchery with Bailie at Fatted Calf | KQED","description":"Bailie is the woman behind Pig + Woman + Knife, which gives hunters, home and restaurant cooks hands-on knowledge and tutorials on breaking down pig, duck and lamb. Bailie practices her butchery and charcuterie craft while working at Fatted Calf, which has locations in San Francisco and Napa.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Pig + Woman + Knife: Butchery with Bailie at Fatted Calf ","datePublished":"2013-08-15T15:00:01.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-16T22:03:56.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"66883 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=66883","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/15/pig-woman-knife-butchery-with-bailie-at-fatted-calf/","disqusTitle":"Pig + Woman + Knife: Butchery with Bailie at Fatted Calf ","path":"/bayareabites/66883/pig-woman-knife-butchery-with-bailie-at-fatted-calf","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (R) and guests. Photo: Ryan Harri\" width=\"720\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (R) and guests. Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Heather Bailie—widely known as Bailie—is a Bay Area charcuterie and meat expert via her work as a butcher, operations manager and partner for Fatted Calf, the meat emporium with shops in Napa and San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> sells meat from smaller family farms, alongside handcrafted (and delectable) pates, beef jerky, terrines, sausage, bacon and salumi (pancetta \u003cem>tesa\u003c/em>, salame Toscano, and a personal favorite: an herby roll of cured pork belly). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bailie currently lives in Napa and has a meaty side project called \u003ca href=\"http://pigwomanknife.com/\">Pig + Woman + Knife\u003c/a>, which has two components. The Pig + Woman + Knife blog demystifies meat buying and butchery, and has photos and tips. She also takes the Pig + Woman + Knife meat knowledge directly to people by giving butchery classes and hands-on demonstrations for smaller groups. Yes, women can take her classes, but she also teaches groups with both genders. Baile told Bay Area Bites that she helps at “Pig Parties” for her friends, and will bring her hacksaw and knives to break down a pig and, say, help the group make sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Her reasons for creating Pig + Woman + Knife:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Stemmed from my experience working with the \"fathers\" of the Bay Area butchery and charcuterie scene. During my culinary upbringing, I was fortunate to work alongside some very talented meat masters, all of whom inspired me to keep a knife in my hand. This interest in butchery, paired with a background in animal right's activism, a degree in Women's Studies and a strong urge to do something creative, led me to create Pig + Woman + Knife.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What started as a simple blog to share knowledge with other women cooks and build community through cutting meat, eventually evolved into an educational site to reach a much broader audience—from home butchers to professionals alike. This website is devoted to showing people how buying whole animals (or rather large pieces of one) and learning a few skills will save money and time and can be a fun hobby! Going whole animal also supports local family farms and small businesses. I hope viewing this site helps to take the intimidation and confusion out of buying meat, clearly demonstrates what to do with it and inspires you to learn some traditional preparations and cooking techniques.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/sa1otNuqVlE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/sa1otNuqVlE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baile has a degree from the California Culinary Academy and did restaurant work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.acquerello.com/\">Acquerello\u003c/a> and Ubuntu before “stalking” Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, the husband and wife team behind Fatted Calf. Bailie has an animal activist background and was a “card carrying PETA member and vegetarian.” Her gateway meat to break her vegetarian diet did eventually come: a late night drive-thru meal of a Jack in the Box hamburger caused her to indulge a strong meat craving with a friend. Bailie now eats slices of mortadella for breakfast daily and samples meat freely for work and pleasure. Bay Area Bites caught up with Bailie recently while she butchered at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/classes/\">Fatted Calf Butcher's Happy Hour\u003c/a> on a Wednesday night with Ren Rossini in San Francisco. We first talked in Napa at the Oxbow Market. Her comments have been edited for clarity and grammar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What’s the biggest challenge in your work at Fatted Calf?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> In my position, I’m dealing with people, products and things changing all the time. Examples: a pig that I ordered two weeks ago will arrive thirty pounds smaller. Or a lamb I need is one day late. Or someone forgets to communicate a special order. There’s also business stuff and situations like staff turnover to handle. I try to deal with things, be a leader, not get pissed off and act with a level of coolness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve taught classes for Fatted Calf and CUESA, work the Fatted Calf Butcher’s Happy Hour and do butchery demos at both locations. Did Pig + Woman + Knife grow out of those experiences?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> It is a passion of mine teaching women. There are a lot of women in the industry who will come to me and say things like, “The guys don’t let me break down lamb.” So I will show them how. As much as I can, I give back. There are women who taught me all that stuff and it’s fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67291\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife2.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (center) working on a whole pig with class guests Photo: Ryan Harris\" width=\"720\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67291\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (center) working on a whole pig with class guests Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The Fatted Calf has a cookbook coming out in September. What’s that like? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> It’s been a good ride. There will be a book tour in the East Bay, in California and New York. We’re all really excited about that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You have mentors that have helped you. Teaching classes for others, have you become a mentor yourself?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie: \u003c/strong>It’s been fun and I’ve mentored Ren. I don’t just help females, I’ll help any employee or person who may not have known they have a flair for knives and butchery. When that shows up, it means they’ve got a knack for breaking things down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be the opposite, too—when people are not good behind the knife, we find something else for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Like what?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> Usually it means they are good at talking with the customers and describing the product, or passionate about farms and sustainability. It could be that they can be the person who wraps the beef jerky (laughs). Or that sign you’re looking at, that details the specials, I could never do that. But someone who is an art major is good at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you find that someone who is good with butchery has a certain strength, or maybe height? Or some sort of personality skill set?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> You’ll see they have a natural intuition and an understanding of how to look at muscles and seams. Ren was really good at watching what we did. People like that do well because they are perceptive. We can train and show them. When people come here from somewhere else, they may have training, so we’ll need to show them our way of doing things. That transition is fairly easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67292\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/pig-woman-knife3.jpg\" alt=\"Bailie (R) doing knife work for a butchery class. Photo: Ryan Harris\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67292\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bailie (R) doing knife work for a butchery class. Photo: Ryan Harris\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What is it like to make salumi at Fatted Calf?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie: \u003c/strong>A lot of the salumi has been here two to six months. The small guys in the middle usually cure in two months. The larger ones usually take anywhere from three to four months. It all depends on temperature and humidity. When it’s hotter, we notice a fluctuation. The process is monitored day by day. I come in here and I spray and move things around and feel it. If it’s too dry, I’ll spray with water to get moisture. Or if it’s too moist in here, I’ll open the door. We do have it regulated with a machine but sometimes I like to be in here and know what’s going on -- feel it, taste it, know what’s going on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There has to be quality control and mold has a distinct flavor. You can sometimes smell if there’s something ‘not awesome’ going on -- a bad mold or ammonia smell, something like that. You want to stop that when it happens. You have to smell it, taste it and see it and use your olfactory senses to keep everything going. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What role can Fatted Calf play in the consumer marketplace?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Bailie:\u003c/strong> Compared to other meat markets in the Bay Area, we’re really on the lower end of things, price-wise. That’s because we can get away with a high-quality product and not gouge people. We maintain our inventory and our costs. Ideally, I don’t want Fatted Calf to be seen as the place to go for a special occasion purchase. I want the market to be an alternative to shopping at Safeway and buying a pork loin for $1.99. Instead the customer is going to get something really nice from Fatted Calf and they will spend a little bit more but they will know that they're supporting a different system and going against the grain. There’s just more awareness about knowing where your meat comes from these days. Eating a little bit less meat while being more conscientious—knowing where you spend your dollar—that right there, is a political act. I’ve definitely seen a change.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/66883/pig-woman-knife-butchery-with-bailie-at-fatted-calf","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_8700","bayareabites_1596","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_1531","bayareabites_12154","bayareabites_11449","bayareabites_8864","bayareabites_12143","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_187","bayareabites_12145","bayareabites_12144"],"featImg":"bayareabites_67307","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_62070":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_62070","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"62070","score":null,"sort":[1368749856000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","title":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","publishDate":1368749856,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 335px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\" alt=\"Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the 1971 film Lady Liberty. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\" width=\"335\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Liberty_(film)\">1971 film\u003c/a> \u003cem>Lady Liberty\u003c/em>. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/16/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American gourmets and lovers of Italian food products, your days as food smugglers are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No more stuffing your suitcases with delicacies bought in Italy, hoping the sniffer dogs at JFK or other American airports won't detect the banned-in-the-USA foodstuffs inside your luggage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., they're called cured meats, the French say \u003cem>charcuterie\u003c/em> and in Italy, the word for cured-pork products is \u003cem>salumi. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting May 28, a four-decades-old ban on the import of many Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/30/dining/ban-on-many-italian-pork-products-to-be-relaxed.html\">will be lifted\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. Department of Agriculture has announced that the Italian regions of Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto and Piedmont, and the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, are free of swine vesicular disease. Imports of pork products from those areas, says the USDA, present a low risk of introducing the disease into the U.S. The disease was first detected in the 1960s and can survive cooking and even long curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up to now, only a few Italian pork products were approved for import to the U.S.: prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, as well as mortadella — which was \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-02-16/features/0002160286_1_italian-swine-fever-ban\">also banned until 2000.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting soon, as long as they receive USDA approval, hundreds of artisanal products will arrive on American tables. It's not yet clear, however, what standards the producers will have to meet and what the costs will be. But even without a ban, Italian cured meat producers must pay hefty fees as part of the process of getting certified for importation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Italians have been making some of the highest-quality cured meats in Europe. It's time to start learning some of their names: \u003cem>sopressata,\u003c/em> a slow-cured dried pork, similar in appearance to salami; \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em>, bacon made from the pork belly, but unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em> is cured in salt and spices; \u003cem>coppa\u003c/em> or \u003cem>capocollo\u003c/em>, made from pork shoulder or neck and seasoned with wine, salt and spice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the secret behind the high quality of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say it's the quality of the pigs, the climate where they're raised and what they're fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, many of them celebrated in weeklong folk festivals. There are fans of \u003cem>Coppa Piacentina\u003c/em> or those who swear by \u003cem>Coppa di Parma\u003c/em>; there's an infinite variety of salamis — from Brianza, Vicenza, Cremona and many more, spiced with garlic, juniper and myrtle berries, fennel and red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the delicacies that may soon reach U.S. shores is \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em>, named after the small town of the same name near Parma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the website \u003ca href=\"http://www.prosciuttopedia.com/\">prosciuttopedia\u003c/a>, \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em> traces its origins to the Middle Ages. The oldest pictorial representation is found in the Parma Baptistery, where one can see two salamis draped over a saucepan. And in 1905, the wording \"Salame di Felino\" was officially included in the dictionary of the Italian language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\" alt=\"Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what cured meat aficionados are most eagerly waiting for is the king of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Culatello.htm\">culatello\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a product of the flatlands of Zibello and neighboring towns near Parma — a product whose secret ingredient is the dense winter fog that hovers at a particular bend in the Po River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> dates back at least to the 15th century. It's made with the muscular part of the hind leg of pigs born, raised and slaughtered in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Italian poet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriele_d'Annunzio\">Gabriele D'Annunzio\u003c/a>, a \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> enthusiast, wrote in 1891, \"It is aged only in the square of land surrounding Zibello, where the air of the Po is often humid and good for the mold that preserves this fatless cut of meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first experienced \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattorialabuca.com/english/start.htm\">Trattoria La Buca di Zibello\u003c/a>, a long-established restaurant run for four generations solely by women. A huge room is dedicated to curing the \u003cem>zibelli\u003c/em> — hundreds hang from the ceiling. The women told me one of the key steps is a loving massage that helps salt penetrate the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> is an expensive delicacy even in Italy, and of the two \u003cem>culatelli\u003c/em> produced by the same animal, one is always better than the other: It's said that pigs are animals of habit and always sleep on the same side, which ends up being the less tender of the two thighs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are some cured pork products that won't soon be imported to the U.S. The region of Tuscany is still on the USDA-restricted list. So, you'll still have to travel there to savor wild boar sausages (my favorite) and\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/curedmeats/r/blr0699.htm\"> finocchiona\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of Siena, a fennel-flavored salami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's that most sinful of products (sinful for those who have to watch their cholesterol intake), \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Lardo-Di-Colonnata.htm\">lardo di Colonnata\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, the small town perched above the marble quarries of Carrara. That velvety white lard — pork fat from the back of the pig — is cured in marble vats. Locals claim it's the porous quality of the stone that's responsible for its unique, refined taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buon appetito. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>Culatello. Capocollo. Sopressata.\u003c/em> It will soon be legal to import a whole new world of Italian cured pork products, thanks to the USDA's decision to end a decades-long ban. Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi.\u003c/em>","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368749856,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":942},"headData":{"title":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America | KQED","description":"Culatello. Capocollo. Sopressata. It will soon be legal to import a whole new world of Italian cured pork products, thanks to the USDA's decision to end a decades-long ban. Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive salumi.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","datePublished":"2013-05-17T00:17:36.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-17T00:17:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"62070 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=62070","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/16/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america/","disqusTitle":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli","nprStoryId":"184553890","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=184553890&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america?ft=3&f=184553890","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 18:36:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 16:38:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 18:36:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/62070/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 335px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\" alt=\"Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the 1971 film Lady Liberty. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\" width=\"335\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Liberty_(film)\">1971 film\u003c/a> \u003cem>Lady Liberty\u003c/em>. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/16/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American gourmets and lovers of Italian food products, your days as food smugglers are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No more stuffing your suitcases with delicacies bought in Italy, hoping the sniffer dogs at JFK or other American airports won't detect the banned-in-the-USA foodstuffs inside your luggage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., they're called cured meats, the French say \u003cem>charcuterie\u003c/em> and in Italy, the word for cured-pork products is \u003cem>salumi. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting May 28, a four-decades-old ban on the import of many Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/30/dining/ban-on-many-italian-pork-products-to-be-relaxed.html\">will be lifted\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. Department of Agriculture has announced that the Italian regions of Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto and Piedmont, and the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, are free of swine vesicular disease. Imports of pork products from those areas, says the USDA, present a low risk of introducing the disease into the U.S. The disease was first detected in the 1960s and can survive cooking and even long curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up to now, only a few Italian pork products were approved for import to the U.S.: prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, as well as mortadella — which was \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-02-16/features/0002160286_1_italian-swine-fever-ban\">also banned until 2000.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting soon, as long as they receive USDA approval, hundreds of artisanal products will arrive on American tables. It's not yet clear, however, what standards the producers will have to meet and what the costs will be. But even without a ban, Italian cured meat producers must pay hefty fees as part of the process of getting certified for importation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Italians have been making some of the highest-quality cured meats in Europe. It's time to start learning some of their names: \u003cem>sopressata,\u003c/em> a slow-cured dried pork, similar in appearance to salami; \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em>, bacon made from the pork belly, but unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em> is cured in salt and spices; \u003cem>coppa\u003c/em> or \u003cem>capocollo\u003c/em>, made from pork shoulder or neck and seasoned with wine, salt and spice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the secret behind the high quality of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say it's the quality of the pigs, the climate where they're raised and what they're fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, many of them celebrated in weeklong folk festivals. There are fans of \u003cem>Coppa Piacentina\u003c/em> or those who swear by \u003cem>Coppa di Parma\u003c/em>; there's an infinite variety of salamis — from Brianza, Vicenza, Cremona and many more, spiced with garlic, juniper and myrtle berries, fennel and red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the delicacies that may soon reach U.S. shores is \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em>, named after the small town of the same name near Parma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the website \u003ca href=\"http://www.prosciuttopedia.com/\">prosciuttopedia\u003c/a>, \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em> traces its origins to the Middle Ages. The oldest pictorial representation is found in the Parma Baptistery, where one can see two salamis draped over a saucepan. And in 1905, the wording \"Salame di Felino\" was officially included in the dictionary of the Italian language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\" alt=\"Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what cured meat aficionados are most eagerly waiting for is the king of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Culatello.htm\">culatello\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a product of the flatlands of Zibello and neighboring towns near Parma — a product whose secret ingredient is the dense winter fog that hovers at a particular bend in the Po River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> dates back at least to the 15th century. It's made with the muscular part of the hind leg of pigs born, raised and slaughtered in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Italian poet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriele_d'Annunzio\">Gabriele D'Annunzio\u003c/a>, a \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> enthusiast, wrote in 1891, \"It is aged only in the square of land surrounding Zibello, where the air of the Po is often humid and good for the mold that preserves this fatless cut of meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first experienced \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattorialabuca.com/english/start.htm\">Trattoria La Buca di Zibello\u003c/a>, a long-established restaurant run for four generations solely by women. A huge room is dedicated to curing the \u003cem>zibelli\u003c/em> — hundreds hang from the ceiling. The women told me one of the key steps is a loving massage that helps salt penetrate the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> is an expensive delicacy even in Italy, and of the two \u003cem>culatelli\u003c/em> produced by the same animal, one is always better than the other: It's said that pigs are animals of habit and always sleep on the same side, which ends up being the less tender of the two thighs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are some cured pork products that won't soon be imported to the U.S. The region of Tuscany is still on the USDA-restricted list. So, you'll still have to travel there to savor wild boar sausages (my favorite) and\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/curedmeats/r/blr0699.htm\"> finocchiona\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of Siena, a fennel-flavored salami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's that most sinful of products (sinful for those who have to watch their cholesterol intake), \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Lardo-Di-Colonnata.htm\">lardo di Colonnata\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, the small town perched above the marble quarries of Carrara. That velvety white lard — pork fat from the back of the pig — is cured in marble vats. Locals claim it's the porous quality of the stone that's responsible for its unique, refined taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buon appetito. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/62070/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","authors":["byline_bayareabites_62070"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_320","bayareabites_11718","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_11719","bayareabites_318","bayareabites_11720","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_62072","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_36803":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_36803","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"36803","score":null,"sort":[1325001600000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"qa-with-peter-temkin-in-house-charcutier-for-show-dogs","title":"Q&A with Peter Temkin, In-House Charcutier for Show Dogs","publishDate":1325001600,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Peter-Temkin500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Peter-Temkin500.jpg\" alt=\"Peter Temkin. Photo: Sarah Logan\" title=\"Peter Temkin. Photo: Sarah Logan\" width=\"500\" height=\"752\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36809\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Peter Temkin.\u003c/strong> Photo: Sarah Logan\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter Temkin brings a decade of experience to \u003ca href=\"http://showdogssf.com/\">Show Dogs\u003c/a> and specializes in charcuterie from pates and whole-cut dry-cured meats to fresh sausages. Peter began working with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark\u003c/a> six months ago as Show Dogs’ in-house Charcutier, and recently introduced five new specialty sausages to the \u003ca href=\"http://showdogssf.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a> including: Merguez, Wild Boar, Chicken Curry, Chicken Boudin and Maple Bacon. Each sausage is made with locally sourced meats but incorporate seasonings to mirror the regions from which the sausages are inspired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter was introduced to the culinary world in his youth while growing up in New York City -- his mother was a catering chef and his father was a book publisher for MCA/Universal's book division, now known as Putnam Books. This upbringing, coupled with travels to France and Italy, instilled an early appreciation for food and cooking traditions. He began his culinary career as an apprentice at \u003ca href=\"http://www.floriosf.com/\">Florio\u003c/a> restaurant in San Francisco. Here, Temkin says, Chef Rick Hackett set his foundation for cooking -- learning everything from practical skills to the art of cured meat. Since then, Temkin has been instrumental in the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/menu/dinner/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sprucesf.com/\">Spruce\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavallopoint.com/gallery.html\">Cavallo Point’s Farley Bar\u003c/a>, where he developed comprehensive charcuterie programs. He lives in South City. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThings are great and the in-house sausages are really singing. We're in the process of developing several new charcuterie offerings as well, which is very exciting. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/food/brunch.php\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a>, the housemade program is starting to hit its stride, now that the salumis are beginning to show. My chefs are so supportive and generous with their talent. I'm very lucky to work where I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite 2 spots to shop for food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avedano's\u003c/a> on Cortland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliviersbutchery.com/\">Olivier's Butchery\u003c/a> in the Dogpatch. I also keep my eye on anything \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodsonthego.blogspot.com/\">Good Foods Catering\u003c/a> does. Chef Dontaye gets it done!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about meeting your wife.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy wife is Melody Mitchell, who is a certified sommelier and the lead server at \u003ca href=\"http://thevillagepub.net/menus\">The Village Pub\u003c/a>. We met through mutual friends after a catering event. I went up to her and kissed her, and we've been together ever since. That was about 6 years ago, and we've been married for over a year and a half. My sun rises and sets with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite date night spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.slowclub.com/\">Slow Club\u003c/a> because the combination of the ambiance, the decor and Chef Matt Paul's food are just devastating.... My wife and I always order his flatbread, and I know he just put his short ribs on the menu. We'll have to get those, since I've heard they're just amazing. We also love \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayflower-seafood.com/HKFL/index.htm\">Flower Lounge\u003c/a> in Millbrae and, well, our house! We cook quite a bit together and the food's getting better all the time. My friend Jon Reitz just opened his first place, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cedarhillsf.com/menu/dinner/\">Cedar Hill Kitchen + Smokehouse\u003c/a>, so we're looking forward to eating there as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy wife's chicken thighs, braised greens and scalloped potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStouffer's French bread pepperoni pizza\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>As a teacher, what are the “musts” of making charcuterie?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou have to keep your proteins clean, cold and covered. Don't let the fancy words intimidate you -- a pate is just a meat loaf that's had a couple of cocktails. Finally, patience and passion -- you'll need both to do charcuterie well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have plans for the holidays and/or a favorite dish/recipe?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Eat, drink and be merry!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Sausage_Knot500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Sausage_Knot500.jpg\" alt=\"Sausage knot. Photo: Sarah Logan\" title=\"Sausage knot. Photo: Sarah Logan\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36808\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Salumi Paradiso - Sausage Knot.\u003c/strong> Photo: Elisa Cicinelli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Salumi Paradiso\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>20 lbs of boneless pork butt, large cube, lean and fat separated\u003cbr>\n9 oz of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n3 tsp of DQ#2 curing salt (\u003ca href=\"http://butcherpacker.com/\">Butcher & Packer\u003c/a> is a fantastic source for curing salts, starter cultures and casings.)\u003cbr>\n125 g of dextrose\u003cbr>\n2 cups of non-fat dry milk powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz of dry white wine\u003cbr>\nTwo large pinches of saffron\u003cbr>\n10 g of crushed chile de arbol\u003cbr>\n15 g of minced fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n15 g of minced fresh garlic\u003cbr>\n4 g of starter culture \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Place meat on a full tray sheet for 20 minutes or until very cold.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Grind lean and fat pork separately through 3/18\" plate-make sure to chill all grinder parts for at least 20 minutes before grinding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place ground pork, separating the lean and the fat, on a full sheet and keep refrigerated until all ingredients are assembled and ready to be utilized.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring white wine to a boil and then off heat, crush the saffron between your fingers to release the essential oils of the saffron and then, put the saffron into the white wine and let steep into liquid is cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove meat from fridge and combine lean meat with all seasoning and spices, by hand, break the fat into small pieces and incorporate into meat mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix white wine/saffron liquid into meat along with several glugs of ice water.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place starter culture into 3 oz of room temperature distilled water and vigorously incorporate solution by hand into meat mixture, make sure mixture is tacky.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stuff mixture into 34-36 mm hog casings, form sausages into 1/2 foot links, tying off links with double knots on both ends.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Prick sausages with sausage pricker and hang on dowels and place in fermentation chamber for 48 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place in drying room with a temperature of 58 degrees and an ambient humidity of 65-70% for 4-6 weeks or until sausages have given up approximately 40-50% of their water weight.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Peter Temkin brings a decade of experience to Show Dogs and specializes in charcuterie from pates and whole-cut dry-cured meats to fresh sausages. Recipe for Salumi Paradiso. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1324527199,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":954},"headData":{"title":"Q&A with Peter Temkin, In-House Charcutier for Show Dogs | KQED","description":"Peter Temkin brings a decade of experience to Show Dogs and specializes in charcuterie from pates and whole-cut dry-cured meats to fresh sausages. Recipe for Salumi Paradiso. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Q&A with Peter Temkin, In-House Charcutier for Show Dogs","datePublished":"2011-12-27T16:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2011-12-22T04:13:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"36803 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=36803","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/12/27/qa-with-peter-temkin-in-house-charcutier-for-show-dogs/","disqusTitle":"Q&A with Peter Temkin, In-House Charcutier for Show Dogs","path":"/bayareabites/36803/qa-with-peter-temkin-in-house-charcutier-for-show-dogs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Peter-Temkin500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Peter-Temkin500.jpg\" alt=\"Peter Temkin. Photo: Sarah Logan\" title=\"Peter Temkin. Photo: Sarah Logan\" width=\"500\" height=\"752\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36809\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Peter Temkin.\u003c/strong> Photo: Sarah Logan\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter Temkin brings a decade of experience to \u003ca href=\"http://showdogssf.com/\">Show Dogs\u003c/a> and specializes in charcuterie from pates and whole-cut dry-cured meats to fresh sausages. Peter began working with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark\u003c/a> six months ago as Show Dogs’ in-house Charcutier, and recently introduced five new specialty sausages to the \u003ca href=\"http://showdogssf.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a> including: Merguez, Wild Boar, Chicken Curry, Chicken Boudin and Maple Bacon. Each sausage is made with locally sourced meats but incorporate seasonings to mirror the regions from which the sausages are inspired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peter was introduced to the culinary world in his youth while growing up in New York City -- his mother was a catering chef and his father was a book publisher for MCA/Universal's book division, now known as Putnam Books. This upbringing, coupled with travels to France and Italy, instilled an early appreciation for food and cooking traditions. He began his culinary career as an apprentice at \u003ca href=\"http://www.floriosf.com/\">Florio\u003c/a> restaurant in San Francisco. Here, Temkin says, Chef Rick Hackett set his foundation for cooking -- learning everything from practical skills to the art of cured meat. Since then, Temkin has been instrumental in the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/menu/dinner/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sprucesf.com/\">Spruce\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavallopoint.com/gallery.html\">Cavallo Point’s Farley Bar\u003c/a>, where he developed comprehensive charcuterie programs. He lives in South City. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThings are great and the in-house sausages are really singing. We're in the process of developing several new charcuterie offerings as well, which is very exciting. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/food/brunch.php\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a>, the housemade program is starting to hit its stride, now that the salumis are beginning to show. My chefs are so supportive and generous with their talent. I'm very lucky to work where I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite 2 spots to shop for food?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avedano's\u003c/a> on Cortland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliviersbutchery.com/\">Olivier's Butchery\u003c/a> in the Dogpatch. I also keep my eye on anything \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodsonthego.blogspot.com/\">Good Foods Catering\u003c/a> does. Chef Dontaye gets it done!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about meeting your wife.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy wife is Melody Mitchell, who is a certified sommelier and the lead server at \u003ca href=\"http://thevillagepub.net/menus\">The Village Pub\u003c/a>. We met through mutual friends after a catering event. I went up to her and kissed her, and we've been together ever since. That was about 6 years ago, and we've been married for over a year and a half. My sun rises and sets with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite date night spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.slowclub.com/\">Slow Club\u003c/a> because the combination of the ambiance, the decor and Chef Matt Paul's food are just devastating.... My wife and I always order his flatbread, and I know he just put his short ribs on the menu. We'll have to get those, since I've heard they're just amazing. We also love \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayflower-seafood.com/HKFL/index.htm\">Flower Lounge\u003c/a> in Millbrae and, well, our house! We cook quite a bit together and the food's getting better all the time. My friend Jon Reitz just opened his first place, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cedarhillsf.com/menu/dinner/\">Cedar Hill Kitchen + Smokehouse\u003c/a>, so we're looking forward to eating there as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your favorite meal to have with your family?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy wife's chicken thighs, braised greens and scalloped potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStouffer's French bread pepperoni pizza\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>As a teacher, what are the “musts” of making charcuterie?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou have to keep your proteins clean, cold and covered. Don't let the fancy words intimidate you -- a pate is just a meat loaf that's had a couple of cocktails. Finally, patience and passion -- you'll need both to do charcuterie well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have plans for the holidays and/or a favorite dish/recipe?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Eat, drink and be merry!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Sausage_Knot500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Sausage_Knot500.jpg\" alt=\"Sausage knot. Photo: Sarah Logan\" title=\"Sausage knot. Photo: Sarah Logan\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36808\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Salumi Paradiso - Sausage Knot.\u003c/strong> Photo: Elisa Cicinelli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Salumi Paradiso\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>20 lbs of boneless pork butt, large cube, lean and fat separated\u003cbr>\n9 oz of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n3 tsp of DQ#2 curing salt (\u003ca href=\"http://butcherpacker.com/\">Butcher & Packer\u003c/a> is a fantastic source for curing salts, starter cultures and casings.)\u003cbr>\n125 g of dextrose\u003cbr>\n2 cups of non-fat dry milk powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz of dry white wine\u003cbr>\nTwo large pinches of saffron\u003cbr>\n10 g of crushed chile de arbol\u003cbr>\n15 g of minced fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n15 g of minced fresh garlic\u003cbr>\n4 g of starter culture \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Place meat on a full tray sheet for 20 minutes or until very cold.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Grind lean and fat pork separately through 3/18\" plate-make sure to chill all grinder parts for at least 20 minutes before grinding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place ground pork, separating the lean and the fat, on a full sheet and keep refrigerated until all ingredients are assembled and ready to be utilized.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring white wine to a boil and then off heat, crush the saffron between your fingers to release the essential oils of the saffron and then, put the saffron into the white wine and let steep into liquid is cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove meat from fridge and combine lean meat with all seasoning and spices, by hand, break the fat into small pieces and incorporate into meat mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix white wine/saffron liquid into meat along with several glugs of ice water.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place starter culture into 3 oz of room temperature distilled water and vigorously incorporate solution by hand into meat mixture, make sure mixture is tacky.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stuff mixture into 34-36 mm hog casings, form sausages into 1/2 foot links, tying off links with double knots on both ends.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Prick sausages with sausage pricker and hang on dowels and place in fermentation chamber for 48 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place in drying room with a temperature of 58 degrees and an ambient humidity of 65-70% for 4-6 weeks or until sausages have given up approximately 40-50% of their water weight.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/36803/qa-with-peter-temkin-in-house-charcutier-for-show-dogs","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_320","bayareabites_8874","bayareabites_8875","bayareabites_10003","bayareabites_318","bayareabites_2344","bayareabites_8873","bayareabites_10006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_36809","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_27337":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_27337","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"27337","score":null,"sort":[1305464447000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"charcutepalooza-chorizo-breakfast-sausage","title":"Charcutepalooza: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage","publishDate":1305464447,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-12.jpg\" alt=\"Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\" title=\"Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27347\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chorizo Breakfast Sausage (no grinder needed!)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Homemade breakfast sausage has never really been on the top of my culinary accomplishments to tackle. It seemed difficult and messy, and I wasn't sold on how much better it would taste. I was wrong on all counts. Well, except for the messy part…you do need to get your hands in there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started to rethink the benefits of making my own sausage from scratch when I saw this month's \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrswheelbarrow.com/2011/04/charcutepalooza-may-challenge-grinding/\">Charcutepalooza Challenge: Grinding\u003c/a>. For those who are unfamiliar with \u003cstrong>Charcutepalooza\u003c/strong>, it's a monthly online cooking group, like \u003ca href=\"http://thedaringkitchen.com/\">Daring Bakers\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://tuesdayswithdorie.wordpress.com/\">Tuesdays with Dorie\u003c/a>, where everyone makes their take on one dish and posts about it on a given date. In this case, it is all about \u003cstrong>meat\u003c/strong>. The group, created by \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrswheelbarrow.com/\">Mrs. Wheelbarrow\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://theyummymummy.blogspot.com/\">The Yummy Mummy\u003c/a> at the beginning of this year, quickly developed an ardent following as charcuterie novices and pros alike shared their experiences of salting, smoking, curing -- and yes, grinding -- tasty meat treats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I love me a fine \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/04/melon-and-prosciutto-risotto/\">prosciutto\u003c/a> any day, but admittedly, I'm not a huge charcuterie lover by nature. My husband, on the other hand, can frequently be seen in the kitchen around 9:30 p.m. making himself a plate of meat dessert. Charcutepalooza was just the thing I needed to step up my carnivorous game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-1.jpg\" alt=\"pork shoulder\" title=\"pork shoulder\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27338\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A whole lot of pork\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This month's challenge focused on free form sausage-making (sans creepy skin casings). A good way to ease into things, I thought. First thing's first, I needed to get my hands on some \u003cstrong>pork shoulder\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>fatback\u003c/strong>. I've never asked for fatback before; it felt a little badass. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-2.jpg\" alt=\"fatback\" title=\"fatback\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27339\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Snowy white fatback\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experts all say that the secret to a good grind is \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Nies\">Eric Nies\u003c/a>--sorry, I couldn't help myself--no, the real secret is ensuring that the meat and equipment are \u003cstrong>very cold\u003c/strong>. So, I stuck my metal mixing bowl and food processor blade in the freezer while I cut the meat and fat into small cubes. Then, I added my spices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-3.jpg\" alt=\"spices\" title=\"spices\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27340\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spices\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration behind my breakfast sausage seasonings comes from some tasty Chorizo Sausage Patties I had once in New York. I had done a remake of them at home before, using store-bought sausage and chorizo and adding a blend of seasonings, but this time I would attempt to do it all from scratch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-4.jpg\" alt=\"Spice rub\" title=\"Spice rub\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spice rub\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I raided my spice drawer and decided on a healthy dose of chili powder and smoked paprika, cayenne for some heat, cumin, ground fennel seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and a touch of garam masala to keep it interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-13.jpg\" alt=\"Thyme + Sage\" title=\"Thyme + Sage\" width=\"500\" height=\"352\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27348\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Thyme + Sage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also added some brown sugar, garlic, and lots of fresh thyme and sage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-7.jpg\" alt=\"pork and seasonings\" title=\"pork and seasonings\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27342\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ready to mingle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This party of flavors got doused over the meat and fat, and it all chilled and mingled together for two hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_sausage-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_sausage-1.jpg\" alt=\"sausage via food processor\" title=\"sausage via food processor\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27447\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sausage via Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since I don't have a grinder, I used the \u003cstrong>food processor\u003c/strong> method. I worked in small batches, pulsing until everything was evenly ground. To this I added an egg yolk, a bit of milk, and vinegar to help bind it all together. I fried up a test patty, and it was good…but something was missing. My brain when to burgers (it does that sometimes) and voila! I knew what I needed -- the secret ingredient to my homemade burgers: caramelized onions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-10.jpg\" alt=\"sausage mixture with onions\" title=\"sausage mixture with onions\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27345\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wit onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That did the trick. My sausage patties were \u003cstrong>tangy\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>smoky\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>sweet\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>savory\u003c/strong>, with a hint of \u003cstrong>heat\u003c/strong>. I think the biggest difference between my homemade sausage and store-bought was the texture. These definitely have more chew to them, and the fat added some great flavor. I'm already fantasizing about the killer breakfast sandwich I'm going to have tomorrow. And then, the day after that? This with Huevos Rancheros. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this rate, I may just be on my way to meat dessert too one day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfieldset class=\"hrecipe\">\n\u003clegend class=\"fn\">Recipe: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\u003c/legend>\n\u003cp class=\"summary\">\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Spicy and smoky, sweet and tangy, this homemade chorizo sausage is the breakfast of champions. The meat is ground using a food processor, so you don't even need a meat grinder! \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By \u003cspan class=\"author\">Stephanie Hua\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-11.jpg\" alt=\"Chorizo Sausage Patties\" title=\"Chorizo Sausage Patties\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27346 photo\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"preptime\">2 hours 45 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT2H45M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"cooktime\">5 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT5M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"duration\">2 hours 50 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT2H50M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"yield\">Makes about 30 (3-inch) patties\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"ingredients\">\n\u003ch4>Ingredients\u003c/h4>\n\u003cul class=\"ingredients\">\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">3 lbs boneless pork shoulder 3/4 lb. fatback\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 medium onion, finely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 large egg yolk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/4 cup red wine vinegar, chilled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme, tightly packed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage, tightly packed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon smoked paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon fennel seeds, ground\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 teaspoon cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon garam masala \u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 cloves, ground (a pinch) \u003c/li>\n\u003cp>* If you're using fresh fatback, add 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt to the mixture. If you're using fatback that has been cured and salted, no additional salt is needed.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003cdiv class=\"instructions\">\n\u003ch4>Instructions\u003c/h4>\n\u003col class=\"instructions\">\n\u003cli>Place your mixing bowl (metal is best) and food processor blade in the freezer. Lightly caramelize the onion over medium heat, about 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the meat into 1\" cubes and the fat into 1/2\" cubes. Place in the chilled mixing bowl. Add the spices and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for two hours, the last 1/2 hour in the freezer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Working in small batches, pulse in food processor, checking and scraping down the sides, until the meat and fat are evenly ground together. Place in a large mixing bowl. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the caramelized onions, egg yolk, milk, and vinegar. Using your hands, mix the sausage meat well to combine and reduce the air in the mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>It's a good idea to fry up a test patty at this point to check your seasoning. Form the remaining sausage mixture into patties. Over medium heat, fry the sausage patties in a lightly oiled skillet until crispy on the outside and cooked through. (Note: To freeze, form the patties and place them on a plate lined with parchment-paper. Freeze solid, then transfer the patties to an air-tight bag.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/fieldset>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Spicy and smoky, sweet and tangy, this homemade chorizo sausage is the breakfast of champions. The meat is ground using a food processor, so you don't even need a meat grinder.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1305431168,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1047},"headData":{"title":"Charcutepalooza: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage | KQED","description":"Spicy and smoky, sweet and tangy, this homemade chorizo sausage is the breakfast of champions. The meat is ground using a food processor, so you don't even need a meat grinder.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Charcutepalooza: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage","datePublished":"2011-05-15T13:00:47.000Z","dateModified":"2011-05-15T03:46:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"27337 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=27337","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/15/charcutepalooza-chorizo-breakfast-sausage/","disqusTitle":"Charcutepalooza: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage","path":"/bayareabites/27337/charcutepalooza-chorizo-breakfast-sausage","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-12.jpg\" alt=\"Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\" title=\"Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27347\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chorizo Breakfast Sausage (no grinder needed!)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Homemade breakfast sausage has never really been on the top of my culinary accomplishments to tackle. It seemed difficult and messy, and I wasn't sold on how much better it would taste. I was wrong on all counts. Well, except for the messy part…you do need to get your hands in there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started to rethink the benefits of making my own sausage from scratch when I saw this month's \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrswheelbarrow.com/2011/04/charcutepalooza-may-challenge-grinding/\">Charcutepalooza Challenge: Grinding\u003c/a>. For those who are unfamiliar with \u003cstrong>Charcutepalooza\u003c/strong>, it's a monthly online cooking group, like \u003ca href=\"http://thedaringkitchen.com/\">Daring Bakers\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://tuesdayswithdorie.wordpress.com/\">Tuesdays with Dorie\u003c/a>, where everyone makes their take on one dish and posts about it on a given date. In this case, it is all about \u003cstrong>meat\u003c/strong>. The group, created by \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrswheelbarrow.com/\">Mrs. Wheelbarrow\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://theyummymummy.blogspot.com/\">The Yummy Mummy\u003c/a> at the beginning of this year, quickly developed an ardent following as charcuterie novices and pros alike shared their experiences of salting, smoking, curing -- and yes, grinding -- tasty meat treats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I love me a fine \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/04/melon-and-prosciutto-risotto/\">prosciutto\u003c/a> any day, but admittedly, I'm not a huge charcuterie lover by nature. My husband, on the other hand, can frequently be seen in the kitchen around 9:30 p.m. making himself a plate of meat dessert. Charcutepalooza was just the thing I needed to step up my carnivorous game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-1.jpg\" alt=\"pork shoulder\" title=\"pork shoulder\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27338\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A whole lot of pork\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This month's challenge focused on free form sausage-making (sans creepy skin casings). A good way to ease into things, I thought. First thing's first, I needed to get my hands on some \u003cstrong>pork shoulder\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>fatback\u003c/strong>. I've never asked for fatback before; it felt a little badass. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-2.jpg\" alt=\"fatback\" title=\"fatback\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27339\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Snowy white fatback\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experts all say that the secret to a good grind is \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Nies\">Eric Nies\u003c/a>--sorry, I couldn't help myself--no, the real secret is ensuring that the meat and equipment are \u003cstrong>very cold\u003c/strong>. So, I stuck my metal mixing bowl and food processor blade in the freezer while I cut the meat and fat into small cubes. Then, I added my spices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-3.jpg\" alt=\"spices\" title=\"spices\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27340\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spices\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration behind my breakfast sausage seasonings comes from some tasty Chorizo Sausage Patties I had once in New York. I had done a remake of them at home before, using store-bought sausage and chorizo and adding a blend of seasonings, but this time I would attempt to do it all from scratch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-4.jpg\" alt=\"Spice rub\" title=\"Spice rub\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spice rub\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I raided my spice drawer and decided on a healthy dose of chili powder and smoked paprika, cayenne for some heat, cumin, ground fennel seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and a touch of garam masala to keep it interesting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-13.jpg\" alt=\"Thyme + Sage\" title=\"Thyme + Sage\" width=\"500\" height=\"352\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27348\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Thyme + Sage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also added some brown sugar, garlic, and lots of fresh thyme and sage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-7.jpg\" alt=\"pork and seasonings\" title=\"pork and seasonings\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27342\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ready to mingle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This party of flavors got doused over the meat and fat, and it all chilled and mingled together for two hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_sausage-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_sausage-1.jpg\" alt=\"sausage via food processor\" title=\"sausage via food processor\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27447\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sausage via Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since I don't have a grinder, I used the \u003cstrong>food processor\u003c/strong> method. I worked in small batches, pulsing until everything was evenly ground. To this I added an egg yolk, a bit of milk, and vinegar to help bind it all together. I fried up a test patty, and it was good…but something was missing. My brain when to burgers (it does that sometimes) and voila! I knew what I needed -- the secret ingredient to my homemade burgers: caramelized onions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-10.jpg\" alt=\"sausage mixture with onions\" title=\"sausage mixture with onions\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27345\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wit onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That did the trick. My sausage patties were \u003cstrong>tangy\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>smoky\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>sweet\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>savory\u003c/strong>, with a hint of \u003cstrong>heat\u003c/strong>. I think the biggest difference between my homemade sausage and store-bought was the texture. These definitely have more chew to them, and the fat added some great flavor. I'm already fantasizing about the killer breakfast sandwich I'm going to have tomorrow. And then, the day after that? This with Huevos Rancheros. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this rate, I may just be on my way to meat dessert too one day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfieldset class=\"hrecipe\">\n\u003clegend class=\"fn\">Recipe: Chorizo Breakfast Sausage\u003c/legend>\n\u003cp class=\"summary\">\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Spicy and smoky, sweet and tangy, this homemade chorizo sausage is the breakfast of champions. The meat is ground using a food processor, so you don't even need a meat grinder! \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By \u003cspan class=\"author\">Stephanie Hua\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/2011_05_chorizo_sausage-11.jpg\" alt=\"Chorizo Sausage Patties\" title=\"Chorizo Sausage Patties\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27346 photo\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"preptime\">2 hours 45 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT2H45M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"cooktime\">5 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT5M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"duration\">2 hours 50 minutes\u003cspan class=\"value-title\" title=\"PT2H50M\">\u003c/span>\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> \u003cspan class=\"yield\">Makes about 30 (3-inch) patties\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"ingredients\">\n\u003ch4>Ingredients\u003c/h4>\n\u003cul class=\"ingredients\">\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">3 lbs boneless pork shoulder 3/4 lb. fatback\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 medium onion, finely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 large egg yolk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/4 cup red wine vinegar, chilled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme, tightly packed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage, tightly packed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon smoked paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 tablespoon fennel seeds, ground\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1 teaspoon cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon cumin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/2 teaspoon garam masala \u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli class=\"ingredient\">2 cloves, ground (a pinch) \u003c/li>\n\u003cp>* If you're using fresh fatback, add 2 teaspoons of Kosher salt to the mixture. If you're using fatback that has been cured and salted, no additional salt is needed.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003cdiv class=\"instructions\">\n\u003ch4>Instructions\u003c/h4>\n\u003col class=\"instructions\">\n\u003cli>Place your mixing bowl (metal is best) and food processor blade in the freezer. Lightly caramelize the onion over medium heat, about 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cut the meat into 1\" cubes and the fat into 1/2\" cubes. Place in the chilled mixing bowl. Add the spices and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for two hours, the last 1/2 hour in the freezer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Working in small batches, pulse in food processor, checking and scraping down the sides, until the meat and fat are evenly ground together. Place in a large mixing bowl. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the caramelized onions, egg yolk, milk, and vinegar. Using your hands, mix the sausage meat well to combine and reduce the air in the mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>It's a good idea to fry up a test patty at this point to check your seasoning. Form the remaining sausage mixture into patties. Over medium heat, fry the sausage patties in a lightly oiled skillet until crispy on the outside and cooked through. (Note: To freeze, form the patties and place them on a plate lined with parchment-paper. Freeze solid, then transfer the patties to an air-tight bag.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/fieldset>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/27337/charcutepalooza-chorizo-breakfast-sausage","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_1927","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_9279","bayareabites_9280","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_2147","bayareabites_9281","bayareabites_8739","bayareabites_2344"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20936":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20936","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20936","score":null,"sort":[1294243216000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cochon-butcher-new-orleans","title":"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans","publishDate":1294243216,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/butcher-quad-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/butcher-quad-1.jpg\" alt=\"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans\" title=\"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20943\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cochon Butcher (New Orleans)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suspended above the deli counter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonbutcher.com/\">Cochon Butcher\u003c/a> runs a long meat locker filled with pink plump sausage links dangling happily in temperature controlled, humidified bliss. On the walls, homage to the divine swine. In the deli case, rows of house-made sausages and salumi, butcher specials like andouille sausage, smoky spicy tasso ham, kurobuta bacon, boudin-stuffed quail, duck confit, and various cuts of beef, lamb, and of course, piggy piggy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was going to be a great lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Donald Link\u003c/strong>, of Nola's famous French-Southern bistro \u003ca href=\"http://www.herbsaint.com/\">Herbsaint\u003c/a> and the acclaimed Cajun-Southern restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonrestaurant.com/\">Cochon\u003c/a>, opened Butcher in January 2009 with partner chefs \u003cstrong>Stephen Stryjewski\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Warren Stephens\u003c/strong>. The casual 25-seat combo café/meat market is right next to Cochon, and together, they have made the Warehouse District quite the dining destination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the sandwiches are made with house-cured meats -– it reminded me of the \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a>, but with a distinct New Orleans style with heavenly freshly baked bread (light and white), bold spices, and rich flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-10.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Boudin, Butcher, New Orleans\" title=\"Hot Boudin, Butcher, New Orleans\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20938\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hot Boudin\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To start, we sampled the \u003cstrong>Hot Boudin\u003c/strong> -– a Cajun classic. Rice is mixed in with the pork before it is all stuffed into the casing (back in the day, this was the poor man's sausage and adding the rice filler was a way to stretch the meat). The hearty boudin is served with sweet-tart crunchy pickles and spicy whole-grain mustard, both great for cutting the richness of the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-12.jpg\" alt=\"Cochon Muffaletta \" title=\"Cochon Muffaletta \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20940\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cochon Muffaletta \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another NOLA classic, we had to try the \u003cstrong>Cochon Muffaletta\u003c/strong> (pronounced \u003cem>muff-a-lotta\u003c/em>). There are a few hallmarks of a great Muffaletta. Soft, pillowy bread, round as an oversized whoopee cushion, and sprinkled with sesame seeds; deli meats piled high; and olive salad. Cochon's version hits the spot with quality house-made meats, provolone, pickled peppers, and a finely minced olive salad, whose olive oil-red wine vinegar dressing has soaked nicely into the bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-11.jpg\" alt=\"Duck Pastrami Slider \" title=\"Duck Pastrami Slider \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20939\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Duck Pastrami Slider \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cstrong>Duck Pastrami Slider\u003c/strong> sure didn't look like any slider I've seen before…and the duck didn't taste too much like duck, but what's in a name? This was a tasty pastrami sandwich cut into cute little triangles. I do wish the duck was a bit duckier, but no matter, the creamy gruyere cheese sauce and butter-grilled white Pullman bread made up for it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-14.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-14.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\" title=\"Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20941\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a sucker for pork belly, so I just couldn't resist trying this. Shockingly, it was my least favorite sandwich. Maybe I'm just spoiled with all the excellent pork belly I've found in SF? The \u003cstrong>Pork Belly on White\u003c/strong> fell a bit flat for me. No crispy bits. Perhaps not enough salt? The simplicity of the sliced white bread I could appreciate (like an amped up tea sandwich), and the mint, pickled cucumber, and chili-lime aioli were bright accompaniments, but the star of the show fell short. Those homemade kettle chips though. I could eat them forever. Not a trace of grease and a crunch you can hear round the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-16.jpg\" alt=\"BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\" title=\"BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20942\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, my favorite of the bunch, the \u003cstrong>BBQ Pork\u003c/strong> sandwich, lit up the room like a shower of Mardi Gras beads. A generous heap of smoky \u003cstrong>Carolina-style Pulled BBQ Pork\u003c/strong>, topped with a generous heap of fresh \u003cstrong>Cole Slaw\u003c/strong> (that is thankfully, not drowning in mayo for once), all piled on top of that airy, soft-crumb bread I've fallen in love with here in the Big Easy. The most remarkable thing about this BBQ pork sandwich is that it is served without a drop of BBQ sauce. Instead, the meat is dressed in a vinegar sauce that gives it a mouth-watering tang. Pardon my French, but this is one tasty, juicy mofo. Also of note, the \u003cstrong>Potato Salad\u003c/strong> earns its keep here. Creamy and chunky, with lots of whole-grain mustard cutting it so it doesn't feel too heavy. Ooh child, this order is a whole lotta lovin' on a plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-7.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon Praline \" title=\"Bacon Praline \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20937\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bacon Praline \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacon Pralines\u003c/strong> officially tipped this meal from decadent to obscene. Instead of studding the buttery brown sugar and cream praline with the traditional pecans, Butcher's heart attack version uses chewy bits of thick slab bacon. The homemade batches of these \u003cem>PRAH-leens\u003c/em> (as my Southern gentleman of a host kindly pointed out, I've been saying it all wrong my whole life) routinely sell out. We were lucky to get our paws on some, still warm from the oven. I expected them to be more brittle, like toffee, but the consistency of real southern pralines is soft, like fudge. If you're the type who loves dipping your bacon in maple syrup, this is your kind of candy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was refreshing to see a different regional take on artisanal homemade charcuterie. \u003cstrong>Cochon Butcher\u003c/strong> has a special thing going, with a style and personality all its own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonbutcher.com/\">Cochon Butcher\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n930 Tchoupitoulas St\u003cbr>\nNew Orleans, LA 70130\u003cbr>\n(504) 588-7675\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"New Orleans takes its swine seriously. Lunch at Cochon Butcher means no shortage of homemade charcuterie and specialty meats, from a classic Muffaletta, to a Pulled BBQ Pork stunner, to Bacon Pralines. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1294213247,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":857},"headData":{"title":"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans | KQED","description":"New Orleans takes its swine seriously. Lunch at Cochon Butcher means no shortage of homemade charcuterie and specialty meats, from a classic Muffaletta, to a Pulled BBQ Pork stunner, to Bacon Pralines. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans","datePublished":"2011-01-05T16:00:16.000Z","dateModified":"2011-01-05T07:40:47.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"20936 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20936","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/05/cochon-butcher-new-orleans/","disqusTitle":"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans","path":"/bayareabites/20936/cochon-butcher-new-orleans","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/butcher-quad-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/butcher-quad-1.jpg\" alt=\"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans\" title=\"Cochon Butcher, New Orleans\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20943\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cochon Butcher (New Orleans)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suspended above the deli counter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonbutcher.com/\">Cochon Butcher\u003c/a> runs a long meat locker filled with pink plump sausage links dangling happily in temperature controlled, humidified bliss. On the walls, homage to the divine swine. In the deli case, rows of house-made sausages and salumi, butcher specials like andouille sausage, smoky spicy tasso ham, kurobuta bacon, boudin-stuffed quail, duck confit, and various cuts of beef, lamb, and of course, piggy piggy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was going to be a great lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Donald Link\u003c/strong>, of Nola's famous French-Southern bistro \u003ca href=\"http://www.herbsaint.com/\">Herbsaint\u003c/a> and the acclaimed Cajun-Southern restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonrestaurant.com/\">Cochon\u003c/a>, opened Butcher in January 2009 with partner chefs \u003cstrong>Stephen Stryjewski\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Warren Stephens\u003c/strong>. The casual 25-seat combo café/meat market is right next to Cochon, and together, they have made the Warehouse District quite the dining destination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the sandwiches are made with house-cured meats -– it reminded me of the \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a>, but with a distinct New Orleans style with heavenly freshly baked bread (light and white), bold spices, and rich flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-10.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Boudin, Butcher, New Orleans\" title=\"Hot Boudin, Butcher, New Orleans\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20938\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hot Boudin\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To start, we sampled the \u003cstrong>Hot Boudin\u003c/strong> -– a Cajun classic. Rice is mixed in with the pork before it is all stuffed into the casing (back in the day, this was the poor man's sausage and adding the rice filler was a way to stretch the meat). The hearty boudin is served with sweet-tart crunchy pickles and spicy whole-grain mustard, both great for cutting the richness of the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-12.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-12.jpg\" alt=\"Cochon Muffaletta \" title=\"Cochon Muffaletta \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20940\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cochon Muffaletta \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another NOLA classic, we had to try the \u003cstrong>Cochon Muffaletta\u003c/strong> (pronounced \u003cem>muff-a-lotta\u003c/em>). There are a few hallmarks of a great Muffaletta. Soft, pillowy bread, round as an oversized whoopee cushion, and sprinkled with sesame seeds; deli meats piled high; and olive salad. Cochon's version hits the spot with quality house-made meats, provolone, pickled peppers, and a finely minced olive salad, whose olive oil-red wine vinegar dressing has soaked nicely into the bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-11.jpg\" alt=\"Duck Pastrami Slider \" title=\"Duck Pastrami Slider \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20939\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Duck Pastrami Slider \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cstrong>Duck Pastrami Slider\u003c/strong> sure didn't look like any slider I've seen before…and the duck didn't taste too much like duck, but what's in a name? This was a tasty pastrami sandwich cut into cute little triangles. I do wish the duck was a bit duckier, but no matter, the creamy gruyere cheese sauce and butter-grilled white Pullman bread made up for it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-14.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-14.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\" title=\"Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20941\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pork Belly on White with Mint + Cucumber\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a sucker for pork belly, so I just couldn't resist trying this. Shockingly, it was my least favorite sandwich. Maybe I'm just spoiled with all the excellent pork belly I've found in SF? The \u003cstrong>Pork Belly on White\u003c/strong> fell a bit flat for me. No crispy bits. Perhaps not enough salt? The simplicity of the sliced white bread I could appreciate (like an amped up tea sandwich), and the mint, pickled cucumber, and chili-lime aioli were bright accompaniments, but the star of the show fell short. Those homemade kettle chips though. I could eat them forever. Not a trace of grease and a crunch you can hear round the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-16.jpg\" alt=\"BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\" title=\"BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20942\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>BBQ Pork 'Carolina Style' and Cole Slaw with Potato Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, my favorite of the bunch, the \u003cstrong>BBQ Pork\u003c/strong> sandwich, lit up the room like a shower of Mardi Gras beads. A generous heap of smoky \u003cstrong>Carolina-style Pulled BBQ Pork\u003c/strong>, topped with a generous heap of fresh \u003cstrong>Cole Slaw\u003c/strong> (that is thankfully, not drowning in mayo for once), all piled on top of that airy, soft-crumb bread I've fallen in love with here in the Big Easy. The most remarkable thing about this BBQ pork sandwich is that it is served without a drop of BBQ sauce. Instead, the meat is dressed in a vinegar sauce that gives it a mouth-watering tang. Pardon my French, but this is one tasty, juicy mofo. Also of note, the \u003cstrong>Potato Salad\u003c/strong> earns its keep here. Creamy and chunky, with lots of whole-grain mustard cutting it so it doesn't feel too heavy. Ooh child, this order is a whole lotta lovin' on a plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/2011_01_cochon_butcher-7.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon Praline \" title=\"Bacon Praline \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20937\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bacon Praline \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacon Pralines\u003c/strong> officially tipped this meal from decadent to obscene. Instead of studding the buttery brown sugar and cream praline with the traditional pecans, Butcher's heart attack version uses chewy bits of thick slab bacon. The homemade batches of these \u003cem>PRAH-leens\u003c/em> (as my Southern gentleman of a host kindly pointed out, I've been saying it all wrong my whole life) routinely sell out. We were lucky to get our paws on some, still warm from the oven. I expected them to be more brittle, like toffee, but the consistency of real southern pralines is soft, like fudge. If you're the type who loves dipping your bacon in maple syrup, this is your kind of candy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was refreshing to see a different regional take on artisanal homemade charcuterie. \u003cstrong>Cochon Butcher\u003c/strong> has a special thing going, with a style and personality all its own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cochonbutcher.com/\">Cochon Butcher\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n930 Tchoupitoulas St\u003cbr>\nNew Orleans, LA 70130\u003cbr>\n(504) 588-7675\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20936/cochon-butcher-new-orleans","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_8778","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_8776","bayareabites_8777","bayareabites_8779","bayareabites_965"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_671":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_671","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"671","score":null,"sort":[1184426100000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"salumi-stars-at-bar-bambino","title":"Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino","publishDate":1184426100,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1184426100,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":663},"headData":{"title":"Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino | KQED","description":"The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi. I know what you're thinking. "Salumi?" you're thinking. "That is so, like, 2006." Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at Bar Bambino, it never goes out of style. The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino","datePublished":"2007-07-14T15:15:00.000Z","dateModified":"2007-07-14T15:15:00.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"671 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/07/14/salumi-stars-at-bar-bambino/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/07/14/salumi-stars-at-bar-bambino/","disqusTitle":"Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino","path":"/bayareabites/671/salumi-stars-at-bar-bambino","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/671/salumi-stars-at-bar-bambino","authors":["5023"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_321","bayareabites_166","bayareabites_320","bayareabites_319","bayareabites_229","bayareabites_318"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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