Cecilia Chiang, Who Revolutionized American Chinese Food, Dies At 100
First Bite: Long Anticipated, Mr. Jiu’s Opens in San Francisco’s Chinatown
Sake, Donuts, Noodles and a CAAMFeast: Celebrating Asian Culture and Cuisine
Alice Waters Reflects on Friendship With Cecilia Chiang
Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer
SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs
Sponsored
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Follow her at \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mladdfood\">@mladdfood\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"mladdfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Mary Ladd | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/maryladd"},"kimwesterman":{"type":"authors","id":"5575","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5575","found":true},"name":"Kim Westerman","firstName":"Kim","lastName":"Westerman","slug":"kimwesterman","email":"kim.westerman@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kim Westerman has been writing about food and wine for most of her adult life. Originally from North Carolina, she moved to Berkeley in 2006 to pursue the California dream, which, it turns out, is all it’s cracked up to be. She’s a farmers' market junkie, a lover of all things tomato, and Champagne-obsessed. She loves to cook with her kids, eight and three, and she makes frequent pilgrimages to International Boulevard in search of her next favorite Mexican dish. She spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about food and wine pairing, often starting with the wine and working backwards when planning menus. She is a Level I Sommelier and a Licensed Q-Grader. Her work has appeared in KQED's Bay Area Bites, Forbes.com, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Table, Fodor’s Travel Guides, and lots of other publications. You can follow Kim on Twitter and Instagram @throughtraveler.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Westerman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kimwesterman"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139433":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139433","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139433","score":null,"sort":[1603994972000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cecilia-chiang-who-revolutionized-american-chinese-food-dies-at-100","title":"Cecilia Chiang, Who Revolutionized American Chinese Food, Dies At 100","publishDate":1603994972,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The chef and restaurant owner who helped change the way Americans think about Chinese food has died. Cecilia Chiang was twice a refugee before she opened the influential San Francisco restaurant The Mandarin and taught Chinese cooking to Julia Child and James Beard. Chiang died Wednesday in San Francisco. She was 100 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulofabanquetfilm.com/\">Soul of a Banquet\u003c/a> explains that Chiang was born into a wealthy Shanghai family with two full-time chefs — one from the north and one from the south. (The film also features drool-inducing close ups of her specialties, like red cooked pork and fish stuffed with ginger and pepper. Don't watch it while you're hungry.) Speaking to the camera, former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine editor Ruth Reichl says food connected Chiang to a vanished era: \"She has this taste memory that goes back to a time that — there aren't a lot of people alive who remember the food of that China, the great food of the great houses, when what you had were chefs who had been classically trained.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That China no longer exists. In 1937, when Japan bombed Shanghai, Chiang had just started college. She and an older sister fled, walking hundreds of miles to the city of Chengdu. Eighty years later, Chiang told NPR about getting robbed by soldiers and hiding from low-flying Japanese warplanes. \"Now I think about it, I was very brave,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=\"postID=bayareabites_31183,bayareabites_107168,bayareabites_95890,bayareabites_46618\" label=\"More about Cecilia Chiang\"}\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang had to flee her home a second time when the Communists took over. She wound up in the U.S., where she was both shocked and amused by the food most Americans considered to be Chinese — like gloppy chop suey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They think chop suey is the only thing we have in China,\" she said with a laugh. \"What a shame.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Chiang resolved to open a high-end Chinese restaurant that served authentic fare. \"Everybody said, 'You cannot make it. You cannot speak English. You don't know anything,' \" she recalled. But starting in 1961, tourists, dignitaries and celebrities — from Mae West to John Lennon — flocked to The Mandarin for then-unfamiliar food like tea-smoked duck and twice-cooked pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this day, Cecelia Chiang's DNA can be found all over American Chinese food. Her son founded the chain P.F. Chang's and the son of one of her chefs founded Panda Express.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In early 2017, Chiang told NPR how she lived to be so old: \"I always think about the better side, the good side of everything. I never think about, \u003cem>Oh, I'm going to fail. Oh, I cannot do this. Oh, I feel sorry for myself.\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Chiang wrote books, starred in a PBS documentary series and won the most prestigious award in American cooking (from the James Beard Foundation) when she was 93 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">https://www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cecilia+Chiang%2C+Who+Revolutionized+American+Chinese+Food%2C+Dies+At+100&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In 1961, Chiang opened San Francisco's The Mandarin, a high-end Chinese restaurant that served authentic fare. Today, her DNA is all over American Chinese food, from P.F. Chang's to Panda Express.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621631946,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":500},"headData":{"title":"Cecilia Chiang, Who Revolutionized American Chinese Food, Dies At 100 | KQED","description":"In 1961, Chiang opened San Francisco's The Mandarin, a high-end Chinese restaurant that served authentic fare. Today, her DNA is all over American Chinese food, from P.F. Chang's to Panda Express.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139433 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139433","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/29/cecilia-chiang-who-revolutionized-american-chinese-food-dies-at-100/","disqusTitle":"Cecilia Chiang, Who Revolutionized American Chinese Food, Dies At 100","nprImageCredit":"Eric Risberg","nprByline":"Neda Ulaby","nprImageAgency":"AP","nprStoryId":"532900657","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=532900657&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2020/10/28/532900657/cecilia-chiang-who-revolutionized-american-chinese-food-dies-at-100?ft=nprml&f=532900657","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 29 Oct 2020 08:28:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 28 Oct 2020 17:43:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 29 Oct 2020 05:36:16 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2020/10/20201029_me_cecilia_chiang_who_revolutionized_american_chinese_food_dies_at_100.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1062&d=177&p=3&story=532900657&ft=nprml&f=532900657","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1929022550-0e5180.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1062&d=177&p=3&story=532900657&ft=nprml&f=532900657","path":"/bayareabites/139433/cecilia-chiang-who-revolutionized-american-chinese-food-dies-at-100","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2020/10/20201029_me_cecilia_chiang_who_revolutionized_american_chinese_food_dies_at_100.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1062&d=177&p=3&story=532900657&ft=nprml&f=532900657","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The chef and restaurant owner who helped change the way Americans think about Chinese food has died. Cecilia Chiang was twice a refugee before she opened the influential San Francisco restaurant The Mandarin and taught Chinese cooking to Julia Child and James Beard. Chiang died Wednesday in San Francisco. She was 100 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulofabanquetfilm.com/\">Soul of a Banquet\u003c/a> explains that Chiang was born into a wealthy Shanghai family with two full-time chefs — one from the north and one from the south. (The film also features drool-inducing close ups of her specialties, like red cooked pork and fish stuffed with ginger and pepper. Don't watch it while you're hungry.) Speaking to the camera, former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine editor Ruth Reichl says food connected Chiang to a vanished era: \"She has this taste memory that goes back to a time that — there aren't a lot of people alive who remember the food of that China, the great food of the great houses, when what you had were chefs who had been classically trained.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That China no longer exists. In 1937, when Japan bombed Shanghai, Chiang had just started college. She and an older sister fled, walking hundreds of miles to the city of Chengdu. Eighty years later, Chiang told NPR about getting robbed by soldiers and hiding from low-flying Japanese warplanes. \"Now I think about it, I was very brave,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"postID=bayareabites_31183,bayareabites_107168,bayareabites_95890,bayareabites_46618","label":"label=\"More about Cecilia Chiang\"}\u003c/span>\u003c/p> \u003cp>Chiang had to flee her home a second time when the Communists took over. She wound up in the U.S., where she was both shocked and amused by the food most Americans considered to be Chinese — like gloppy chop suey.\u003c/p> \u003cp>[ad fullwidth"},"numeric":["label=\"More","about","Cecilia","Chiang\"}\u003c/span>\u003c/p>","\u003cp>Chiang","had","to","flee","her","home","a","second","time","when","the","Communists","took","over.","She","wound","up","in","the","U.S.,","where","she","was","both","shocked","and","amused","by","the","food","most","Americans","considered","to","be","Chinese","—","like","gloppy","chop","suey.\u003c/p>","\u003cp>[ad","fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They think chop suey is the only thing we have in China,\" she said with a laugh. \"What a shame.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Chiang resolved to open a high-end Chinese restaurant that served authentic fare. \"Everybody said, 'You cannot make it. You cannot speak English. You don't know anything,' \" she recalled. But starting in 1961, tourists, dignitaries and celebrities — from Mae West to John Lennon — flocked to The Mandarin for then-unfamiliar food like tea-smoked duck and twice-cooked pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this day, Cecelia Chiang's DNA can be found all over American Chinese food. Her son founded the chain P.F. Chang's and the son of one of her chefs founded Panda Express.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In early 2017, Chiang told NPR how she lived to be so old: \"I always think about the better side, the good side of everything. I never think about, \u003cem>Oh, I'm going to fail. Oh, I cannot do this. Oh, I feel sorry for myself.\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Chiang wrote books, starred in a PBS documentary series and won the most prestigious award in American cooking (from the James Beard Foundation) when she was 93 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">https://www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cecilia+Chiang%2C+Who+Revolutionized+American+Chinese+Food%2C+Dies+At+100&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139433/cecilia-chiang-who-revolutionized-american-chinese-food-dies-at-100","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139433"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_17017","bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16601"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139434","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_108533":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_108533","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"108533","score":null,"sort":[1460587312000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"first-bite-long-anticipated-mr-jius-opens-in-san-franciscos-chinatown","title":"First Bite: Long Anticipated, Mr. Jiu’s Opens in San Francisco’s Chinatown","publishDate":1460587312,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Just as Charles Phan did for Vietnamese food when he opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> in the Mission in 1995, Brandon Jew is doing for the Cantonese food of his childhood — reinventing it by way of a contemporary, local, and decidedly upscale approach. One of the most eagerly anticipated restaurants to open in San Francisco in recent years, \u003ca href=\"http://misterjius.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mister Jiu’s\u003c/a> officially opened last night on a charming block of Waverly Place in Chinatown, a neighborhood better known for fast, inexpensive food and tourist photo-ops than as a dining destination. If the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/07/chef-brandon-jew-of-mister-jius-shares-his-inspirations-and-creative-process/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant’s name\u003c/a> seems like a pun on the chef-owner’s, it is. When Chef Jew’s grandparents immigrated to the U.S., the processor translated their last name “Jiu” (which was \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/08/14/brandon-jew-talks-mister-jiu-chinese-food-chinatown-and-much-more/\" target=\"_blank\">also fabricated\u003c/a>, but by them) as “Jew,“ and this remained the family name. So, the gesture of naming the restaurant Mister Jiu’s is a reclamation, of sorts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as the reservation system went online, I grabbed a table. And last night, we were seated next to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/25/sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine/\" target=\"_blank\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, the legendary chef and founder of The Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco. Though that restaurant is long gone, Chiang’s living-legend status as the mother of Chinese cuisine thrives. Her presence at the next table seemed auspicious, like a blessing of the endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108546\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920.jpg\" alt=\"The signage of the former Four Seas restaurant, still visible out front\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108546\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The signage of the former Four Seas restaurant, still visible out front \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dining room occupies the first floor of the former Four Seas restaurant, and its huge windows onto the street backlight the spacious, high-ceilinged room. The ceiling is all about the gorgeous lotus-blossom chandeliers that hang down over the round banquet tables in the center of the room. Backlighting the other end of the room is the bright, open kitchen where Chef Jew mindfully worked at a clip all night long, surrounded by a blur of helpers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108552\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920.jpg\" alt=\"View of the dining room at Mister Jiu's with huge windows facing the street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108552\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of the dining room at Mister Jiu's with huge windows facing the street. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108548\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a.jpg\" alt=\"The dining room at Mister Jiu's with a view of the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108548\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining room at Mister Jiu's with a view of the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Brandon Jew in his big open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108545\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Brandon Jew in his big open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is served family style here, $69 for five courses. Everyone at the table must agree on the choices, but courses can be ordered from any menu category: salad, soup, rice and noodles, veggies, and entrees. While I felt like I might as well close my eyes and point, so beautiful was the menu, we decided to order one dish from each category, figuring that was the chef’s intention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started with salt and pepper squid, Monterey squid battered in baking soda and rice flour for supreme crispiness and fried with fennel and kumquat (a brilliant idea) and served with a soy, ginger, garlic and serrano chile sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108554\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Salt and pepper squid with soy-chile sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108554\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt and pepper squid with soy-chile sauce. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next up: a Marin Miyagi clam and oyster custard with barely cooked fava beans, lap cheong and green garlic, sweetly earthy and sea-driven, yet delicate. This was followed by the more assertive cold sweet potato noodles tossed in peanut sauce with chrysanthemum and Dungeness crab. For our vegetable, we chose the sweet pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic and a few asparagus tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108555\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Clam and oyster custard.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108555\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam and oyster custard. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108556\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet potato noodles in peanut sauce with Dungeness crab and chrysanthemum.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108556\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet potato noodles in peanut sauce with Dungeness crab and chrysanthemum. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We upgraded our main course for $25 (per table, not per person) to the barbecued pork, which featured both belly and spareribs, the latter slathered with black garlic paste, served with a side of homemade mantou buns and cucumber and daikon pickles. We tucked the belly meat into the steaming buns and dipped both those and the ribs in the hot mustard also on the plate. This recipe is destined to become a classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecued pork with homemade mantou buns and pickles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108558\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecued pork with homemade mantou buns and pickles. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My one quibble with the place is that some of what we ordered would have been better as bona fide side dishes, rather than standalone courses — in our case, the tendrils and the noodles. But it’s a small complaint amidst the deep pleasure invoked by the whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both the cocktail and wine lists are married to the food. We went for the latter and ordered an inexpensive dry Riesling, a 2013 Hunstler from the Rheingau, which had just the right balance of minerality, fruit and acidity for all the dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was remarkably together for day one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Mister Jiu’s is a harbinger of Chinatown’s future, I say welcome to the new era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://misterjius.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Mister Jiu’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n28 Waverly Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94703 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/UyrFiV\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 857-9688\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Thu, 5:30-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (Prix fixe, banquet-style, $69 per person for 5 courses).\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MisterJiu\" target=\"_blank\">@MisterJiu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Brandon Jew reinvigorates an almost-forgotten dining neighborhood with his ambitious new Cantonese restaurant.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1460651647,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":829},"headData":{"title":"First Bite: Long Anticipated, Mr. Jiu’s Opens in San Francisco’s Chinatown | KQED","description":"Chef Brandon Jew reinvigorates an almost-forgotten dining neighborhood with his ambitious new Cantonese restaurant.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"108533 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=108533","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/04/13/first-bite-long-anticipated-mr-jius-opens-in-san-franciscos-chinatown/","disqusTitle":"First Bite: Long Anticipated, Mr. Jiu’s Opens in San Francisco’s Chinatown","source":"Restaurants","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/restaurants-and-bars/","path":"/bayareabites/108533/first-bite-long-anticipated-mr-jius-opens-in-san-franciscos-chinatown","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Just as Charles Phan did for Vietnamese food when he opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> in the Mission in 1995, Brandon Jew is doing for the Cantonese food of his childhood — reinventing it by way of a contemporary, local, and decidedly upscale approach. One of the most eagerly anticipated restaurants to open in San Francisco in recent years, \u003ca href=\"http://misterjius.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mister Jiu’s\u003c/a> officially opened last night on a charming block of Waverly Place in Chinatown, a neighborhood better known for fast, inexpensive food and tourist photo-ops than as a dining destination. If the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/07/chef-brandon-jew-of-mister-jius-shares-his-inspirations-and-creative-process/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant’s name\u003c/a> seems like a pun on the chef-owner’s, it is. When Chef Jew’s grandparents immigrated to the U.S., the processor translated their last name “Jiu” (which was \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/08/14/brandon-jew-talks-mister-jiu-chinese-food-chinatown-and-much-more/\" target=\"_blank\">also fabricated\u003c/a>, but by them) as “Jew,“ and this remained the family name. So, the gesture of naming the restaurant Mister Jiu’s is a reclamation, of sorts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as the reservation system went online, I grabbed a table. And last night, we were seated next to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/25/sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine/\" target=\"_blank\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, the legendary chef and founder of The Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco. Though that restaurant is long gone, Chiang’s living-legend status as the mother of Chinese cuisine thrives. Her presence at the next table seemed auspicious, like a blessing of the endeavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108546\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920.jpg\" alt=\"The signage of the former Four Seas restaurant, still visible out front\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108546\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5017-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The signage of the former Four Seas restaurant, still visible out front \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dining room occupies the first floor of the former Four Seas restaurant, and its huge windows onto the street backlight the spacious, high-ceilinged room. The ceiling is all about the gorgeous lotus-blossom chandeliers that hang down over the round banquet tables in the center of the room. Backlighting the other end of the room is the bright, open kitchen where Chef Jew mindfully worked at a clip all night long, surrounded by a blur of helpers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108552\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920.jpg\" alt=\"View of the dining room at Mister Jiu's with huge windows facing the street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108552\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5021-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of the dining room at Mister Jiu's with huge windows facing the street. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108548\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a.jpg\" alt=\"The dining room at Mister Jiu's with a view of the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108548\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5024-1920a-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining room at Mister Jiu's with a view of the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108545\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Brandon Jew in his big open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108545\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5035-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Brandon Jew in his big open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is served family style here, $69 for five courses. Everyone at the table must agree on the choices, but courses can be ordered from any menu category: salad, soup, rice and noodles, veggies, and entrees. While I felt like I might as well close my eyes and point, so beautiful was the menu, we decided to order one dish from each category, figuring that was the chef’s intention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started with salt and pepper squid, Monterey squid battered in baking soda and rice flour for supreme crispiness and fried with fennel and kumquat (a brilliant idea) and served with a soy, ginger, garlic and serrano chile sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108554\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Salt and pepper squid with soy-chile sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108554\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5032-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt and pepper squid with soy-chile sauce. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next up: a Marin Miyagi clam and oyster custard with barely cooked fava beans, lap cheong and green garlic, sweetly earthy and sea-driven, yet delicate. This was followed by the more assertive cold sweet potato noodles tossed in peanut sauce with chrysanthemum and Dungeness crab. For our vegetable, we chose the sweet pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic and a few asparagus tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108555\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Clam and oyster custard.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108555\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5041-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam and oyster custard. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108556\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet potato noodles in peanut sauce with Dungeness crab and chrysanthemum.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108556\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5042-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet potato noodles in peanut sauce with Dungeness crab and chrysanthemum. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5046-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pea tendrils with Meyer lemon and roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We upgraded our main course for $25 (per table, not per person) to the barbecued pork, which featured both belly and spareribs, the latter slathered with black garlic paste, served with a side of homemade mantou buns and cucumber and daikon pickles. We tucked the belly meat into the steaming buns and dipped both those and the ribs in the hot mustard also on the plate. This recipe is destined to become a classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_108558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecued pork with homemade mantou buns and pickles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-108558\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/04/IMG_5047-1920-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecued pork with homemade mantou buns and pickles. \u003ccite>(Kim Westerman)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My one quibble with the place is that some of what we ordered would have been better as bona fide side dishes, rather than standalone courses — in our case, the tendrils and the noodles. But it’s a small complaint amidst the deep pleasure invoked by the whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both the cocktail and wine lists are married to the food. We went for the latter and ordered an inexpensive dry Riesling, a 2013 Hunstler from the Rheingau, which had just the right balance of minerality, fruit and acidity for all the dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was remarkably together for day one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Mister Jiu’s is a harbinger of Chinatown’s future, I say welcome to the new era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://misterjius.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Mister Jiu’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n28 Waverly Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94703 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/UyrFiV\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 857-9688\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Thu, 5:30-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (Prix fixe, banquet-style, $69 per person for 5 courses).\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MisterJiu\" target=\"_blank\">@MisterJiu\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/108533/first-bite-long-anticipated-mr-jius-opens-in-san-franciscos-chinatown","authors":["5575"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9134","bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_1269","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_15332"],"featImg":"bayareabites_108539","label":"source_bayareabites_108533"},"bayareabites_107168":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107168","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107168","score":null,"sort":[1456424028000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine","title":"Sake, Donuts, Noodles and a CAAMFeast: Celebrating Asian Culture and Cuisine","publishDate":1456424028,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang arrived in San Francisco in 1959 to spend time with her sister, who had just lost her husband to cancer. During her first visit to the city, Chiang secured a lease (impulsively? fatefully?) for some friends who wanted to open a restaurant. When that partnership fell apart, Chiang, with little previous business experience, became an accidental restaurateur. Unable to break her lease and unwilling to lose the $10,000 she had put toward the deposit, she decided to go ahead and open the restaurant in a small location on the north end of Polk Street. After sampling what then passed for Chinese food in the U.S. (chop suey, egg foo young, dishes she had never tasted before in China), Chiang opened The Mandarin to little fanfare in 1961, determined to introduce real Chinese food to the American palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107169\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\" width=\"640\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-400x499.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-800x997.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-768x957.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1180x1471.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-960x1197.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After gaining (apparently) well-deserved and hard-earned notoriety, The Mandarin moved to a larger location on Ghirardelli Square, and Chiang began her mission in earnest, adding classes in traditional Chinese cooking to the restaurant’s menu. Alice Waters attended a handful of these lessons and became a lifelong friend, eventually comparing Chiang’s influence to Julia Child’s, who Chiang also schooled in the art of Chinese cuisine. When Waters’ famous Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse celebrated its 40th anniversary a few years back, Chiang paid tribute to their decades-long friendship by preparing a traditional Chinese banquet, which was captured on film by Wayne Wang (\u003cem>The Joy Luck Club\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Chan Is Missing\u003c/em>). That project blossomed into Wang’s \u003cem>Soul of a Banquet\u003c/em> documentary celebrating the restaurateur’s life and influence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/f3fY6sCQQvc\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with San Francisco so famous for its cuisine, it is almost impossible to imagine what food in the city must have been like back in the day. We will never understand the influence of pioneers like Chiang. We cannot know the world as it was before them, but must be careful to remember their efforts as we enjoy the fruits of their labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is interesting to consider how changes in thinking about food magnify, ripple and ultimately modify the culture. Food is so basic to identity, which is why the Center for Asian American Media (\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAM\u003c/a>) began its CAAMFeast a couple years back. \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> celebrates “the ways cultural memory and storytelling are passed down through food.” I thought it intriguing that the Center for Asian American \u003cem>Media\u003c/em> was spotlighting chefs instead of filmmakers and asked Debbie Ng, CAAM’s Development and Communications Director about the connection between food and media. Ng replied, “As a cultural institution, we have always told stories about bridging and bonding — and food is a primary vehicle for that.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the CAAMFeast, a multimedia event honoring 96-year-old Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, along with internationally renowned chef and entrepreneur George Chen (Betelnut, LongLife Noodle Company) — who started out as a waiter at The Mandarin, by the way — and chef Brandon Jew (Bar Agricole, Mister Jiu’s) for their contributions to Asian American culinary achievement, is a huge celebration that leads directly into CAAMFest, the 34th annual celebration of Asian American film, music and food. The festival is truly a BEAST, with 11 days of film screenings, music events, panel discussions and social gatherings in multiple venues all around the Bay. This post would quickly become unwieldy should I attempt to cover the breadth of CAAMFest’s ambitions (the festival screens 123 films from around 20 countries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/WX4C6jr_mmA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme connecting culture and cuisine is on vivid display in the film festival’s presentation of \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, an engaging cooking-travelogue-history show exploring the traditions behind popular Hawaiian dishes with celebrity chef Ed Kenney. The two episodes featured in the festival are a sneak peek at a series that has already won an Emmy for its pilot episode and will begin airing in earnest on PBS this July. The first episode begins with Kenney's personal relationship to poi, a staple made from taro root that is often the first solid food Hawaiian children are fed. Kenney reveals the many permutations of poi, visiting a farm that raises heirloom varieties, a community center that celebrates the making of poi as a communal practice, and profiling a couple of chefs engaged in expanding the vocabulary of the dish (poi pie, poi hummus, poi cheese). The second episode begins with \u003cem>pipikaula\u003c/em> (salted dried beef) and ends up tracing the history of the \u003cem>paniolo\u003c/em> (Hawaiian cowboys) back in time to the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Q4MIdOj98EA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A featured documentary, \u003cem>Kampai: For the Love of Sake\u003c/em>, follows three sake connoisseurs on a trip through Japanese culture toward a better understanding of the present-day sake industry. \u003cem>Kampai\u003c/em> (Japanese of ‘cheers’) is one of those lush, multi-layered journey films — a gorgeously photographed and lovingly constructed portrait of three men and the passion for sake that almost fatefully unites them. How did a young, seemingly aimless engineering student from Cleveland, OH become an international sake evangelist? How did the scion of a sake company go from avoiding the family business to revolutionizing it? How did a rural Brit become one of Japan’s most respected sake makers? These questions get answered over the course of the documentary, but as they do another arises: Do you choose your path or does your path choose you? Meanwhile, how is sake made? We get to see the process in glorious detail. Make a reservation at a local sake spot; you will want to experience the drink's many complexities when this film comes to an end. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107173\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png\" alt=\"Still from Noodle Deli\" width=\"640\" height=\"324\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107173\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-400x202.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-960x485.png 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Noodle Deli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two shorts, \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em> offer loving profiles of immigrant entrepreneurs. David Liu’s \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> documents the process of making Shanxi knife-cut noodles while Temple City, CA noodle shop-owner Jeffrey Zhifeng Yang tells the origin story of one of the world’s oldest noodle-making traditions. In Robert Riutta’s \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em>, Sam Ath Eath recounts his youth on a poor Cambodian farm, his struggle to get educated, how he became a doctor and then, after the rise of the Khmer Rouge, how he ended up the owner of a donut shop in the Bay Area. Against the current immigration debates, it is an important reminder that we may never truly understand the struggles that lead people out of their homes and into foreign lands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Center for Asian America’s Feast and Fest both celebrate this continuing journey. It is hard to imagine Chinese food today without Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang’s pioneering contributions. In \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, chef Ed Kenney says, “The person that prepares the food gives a little of themselves.” CAAM celebrates those contributions in their many forms. Get out and celebrate those who blazed the trails that lead to where we are now and those clearing the way for where we are headed. Kampai!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 3rd Annual CAAMFeast is presented by One Kearny Club, Saturday, March 5, 2016, 6pm-9pm. For more information visit \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 34th Annual CAAMFest runs March 10-20, 2016 at venues across the San Francisco Bay Area. Get your tickets now at \u003ca href=\"https://caamedia.org/blog/category/caamfest-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's coming! The Center for Asian American Media is about to unleash a huge celebration of Asian film, music and food across the Bay Area. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1456673715,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":1245},"headData":{"title":"Sake, Donuts, Noodles and a CAAMFeast: Celebrating Asian Culture and Cuisine | KQED","description":"It's coming! The Center for Asian American Media is about to unleash a huge celebration of Asian film, music and food across the Bay Area. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"107168 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107168","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/02/25/sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine/","disqusTitle":"Sake, Donuts, Noodles and a CAAMFeast: Celebrating Asian Culture and Cuisine","path":"/bayareabites/107168/sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang arrived in San Francisco in 1959 to spend time with her sister, who had just lost her husband to cancer. During her first visit to the city, Chiang secured a lease (impulsively? fatefully?) for some friends who wanted to open a restaurant. When that partnership fell apart, Chiang, with little previous business experience, became an accidental restaurateur. Unable to break her lease and unwilling to lose the $10,000 she had put toward the deposit, she decided to go ahead and open the restaurant in a small location on the north end of Polk Street. After sampling what then passed for Chinese food in the U.S. (chop suey, egg foo young, dishes she had never tasted before in China), Chiang opened The Mandarin to little fanfare in 1961, determined to introduce real Chinese food to the American palate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107169\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg\" alt=\"Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\" width=\"640\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1440x1795.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-400x499.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-800x997.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-768x957.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-1180x1471.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/ceciilia1961-960x1197.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, still from Wayne Wang's Soul of a Banquet\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After gaining (apparently) well-deserved and hard-earned notoriety, The Mandarin moved to a larger location on Ghirardelli Square, and Chiang began her mission in earnest, adding classes in traditional Chinese cooking to the restaurant’s menu. Alice Waters attended a handful of these lessons and became a lifelong friend, eventually comparing Chiang’s influence to Julia Child’s, who Chiang also schooled in the art of Chinese cuisine. When Waters’ famous Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse celebrated its 40th anniversary a few years back, Chiang paid tribute to their decades-long friendship by preparing a traditional Chinese banquet, which was captured on film by Wayne Wang (\u003cem>The Joy Luck Club\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Chan Is Missing\u003c/em>). That project blossomed into Wang’s \u003cem>Soul of a Banquet\u003c/em> documentary celebrating the restaurateur’s life and influence. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Now, with San Francisco so famous for its cuisine, it is almost impossible to imagine what food in the city must have been like back in the day. We will never understand the influence of pioneers like Chiang. We cannot know the world as it was before them, but must be careful to remember their efforts as we enjoy the fruits of their labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is interesting to consider how changes in thinking about food magnify, ripple and ultimately modify the culture. Food is so basic to identity, which is why the Center for Asian American Media (\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAM\u003c/a>) began its CAAMFeast a couple years back. \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">CAAMFeast\u003c/a> celebrates “the ways cultural memory and storytelling are passed down through food.” I thought it intriguing that the Center for Asian American \u003cem>Media\u003c/em> was spotlighting chefs instead of filmmakers and asked Debbie Ng, CAAM’s Development and Communications Director about the connection between food and media. Ng replied, “As a cultural institution, we have always told stories about bridging and bonding — and food is a primary vehicle for that.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the CAAMFeast, a multimedia event honoring 96-year-old Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang, along with internationally renowned chef and entrepreneur George Chen (Betelnut, LongLife Noodle Company) — who started out as a waiter at The Mandarin, by the way — and chef Brandon Jew (Bar Agricole, Mister Jiu’s) for their contributions to Asian American culinary achievement, is a huge celebration that leads directly into CAAMFest, the 34th annual celebration of Asian American film, music and food. The festival is truly a BEAST, with 11 days of film screenings, music events, panel discussions and social gatherings in multiple venues all around the Bay. This post would quickly become unwieldy should I attempt to cover the breadth of CAAMFest’s ambitions (the festival screens 123 films from around 20 countries).\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/WX4C6jr_mmA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/WX4C6jr_mmA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The theme connecting culture and cuisine is on vivid display in the film festival’s presentation of \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, an engaging cooking-travelogue-history show exploring the traditions behind popular Hawaiian dishes with celebrity chef Ed Kenney. The two episodes featured in the festival are a sneak peek at a series that has already won an Emmy for its pilot episode and will begin airing in earnest on PBS this July. The first episode begins with Kenney's personal relationship to poi, a staple made from taro root that is often the first solid food Hawaiian children are fed. Kenney reveals the many permutations of poi, visiting a farm that raises heirloom varieties, a community center that celebrates the making of poi as a communal practice, and profiling a couple of chefs engaged in expanding the vocabulary of the dish (poi pie, poi hummus, poi cheese). The second episode begins with \u003cem>pipikaula\u003c/em> (salted dried beef) and ends up tracing the history of the \u003cem>paniolo\u003c/em> (Hawaiian cowboys) back in time to the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Q4MIdOj98EA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Q4MIdOj98EA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>A featured documentary, \u003cem>Kampai: For the Love of Sake\u003c/em>, follows three sake connoisseurs on a trip through Japanese culture toward a better understanding of the present-day sake industry. \u003cem>Kampai\u003c/em> (Japanese of ‘cheers’) is one of those lush, multi-layered journey films — a gorgeously photographed and lovingly constructed portrait of three men and the passion for sake that almost fatefully unites them. How did a young, seemingly aimless engineering student from Cleveland, OH become an international sake evangelist? How did the scion of a sake company go from avoiding the family business to revolutionizing it? How did a rural Brit become one of Japan’s most respected sake makers? These questions get answered over the course of the documentary, but as they do another arises: Do you choose your path or does your path choose you? Meanwhile, how is sake made? We get to see the process in glorious detail. Make a reservation at a local sake spot; you will want to experience the drink's many complexities when this film comes to an end. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_107173\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png\" alt=\"Still from Noodle Deli\" width=\"640\" height=\"324\" class=\"size-large wp-image-107173\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1440x728.png 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-400x202.png 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/02/Noodle-Deli-Photo-1-960x485.png 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still from Noodle Deli\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two shorts, \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em> offer loving profiles of immigrant entrepreneurs. David Liu’s \u003cem>Noodle Deli\u003c/em> documents the process of making Shanxi knife-cut noodles while Temple City, CA noodle shop-owner Jeffrey Zhifeng Yang tells the origin story of one of the world’s oldest noodle-making traditions. In Robert Riutta’s \u003cem>Donut Shop\u003c/em>, Sam Ath Eath recounts his youth on a poor Cambodian farm, his struggle to get educated, how he became a doctor and then, after the rise of the Khmer Rouge, how he ended up the owner of a donut shop in the Bay Area. Against the current immigration debates, it is an important reminder that we may never truly understand the struggles that lead people out of their homes and into foreign lands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Center for Asian America’s Feast and Fest both celebrate this continuing journey. It is hard to imagine Chinese food today without Cecilia Sun Yun Chiang’s pioneering contributions. In \u003cem>Family Ingredients\u003c/em>, chef Ed Kenney says, “The person that prepares the food gives a little of themselves.” CAAM celebrates those contributions in their many forms. Get out and celebrate those who blazed the trails that lead to where we are now and those clearing the way for where we are headed. Kampai!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 3rd Annual CAAMFeast is presented by One Kearny Club, Saturday, March 5, 2016, 6pm-9pm. For more information visit \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/caamfeast-awards-stories-food-you/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 34th Annual CAAMFest runs March 10-20, 2016 at venues across the San Francisco Bay Area. Get your tickets now at \u003ca href=\"https://caamedia.org/blog/category/caamfest-2016/\" target=\"_blank\">caamedia.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107168/sake-donuts-noodles-and-a-caamfeast-celebrating-asian-culture-and-cuisine","authors":["8"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_11455","bayareabites_13014","bayareabites_13181","bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_143","bayareabites_1223"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107170","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_95890":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_95890","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"95890","score":null,"sort":[1431102490000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"alice-waters-reflects-on-friendship-with-cecilia-chiang","title":"Alice Waters Reflects on Friendship With Cecilia Chiang","publishDate":1431102490,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Alice Waters is well-known as the chef and proprietor of the Berkeley, California restaurant Chez Panisse. Waters is a pioneer in modern cuisine, bringing local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients to the plate, before “farm-to-table” was ever a catchphrase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many know Waters as a chef of French-influenced dishes, Waters has a history with Chinese food. Specifically, one of her longtime friends and mentors is Cecilia Chiang, 95, owner of the former Mandarin Restaurant, which first opened in San Francisco in 1961. Waters met Chiang shortly after opening her own restaurant, Chez Panisse, in 1971. The two have forged a friendship in the past four decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters is the author of 14 books and founder of The Edible Schoolyard Project, which advocates for healthy school lunches and a sustainable food curriculum in every public school. She is also vice president of Slow Food International.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang and Waters are subjects in the new documentary by Wayne Wang, \"Soul of a Banquet,\" which \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/soul-banquet/\" target=\"_blank\">premieres on PBS stations nationally this May\u003c/a>, presented by the Center for Asian American Media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the 40th anniversary of Chez Panisse, Chiang prepared a multi-course Chinese banquet in celebration of Waters and her restaurant, and to raise funds for The Edible Schoolyard Project. Wang filmed the banquet, which kickstarted the documentary about Chiang’s life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters shares how she first met Chiang, reflections on their travels in China, and why she believes her daughter, Fanny, has a passion for Asian food today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>—Momo Chang\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you first meet Cecilia?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>I met her right at the beginning of Chez Panisse. I’m not quite sure when it was, maybe the first three years of Chez Panisse. Our mutual friend, Marion Cunningham, asked me to go to a cooking class that was happening at the Mandarin. So I went there for lunch and I was incredibly impressed and really admired Cecilia as a restaurateur, or I should say, a restauratrice. And we became friends from that point. Very much the three of us -- Marion, Cecilia and myself -- we spent a lot of time together, going out to restaurants, eating at the Mandarin, and ultimately, traveling together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the cooking class like?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>We were in the kitchen. Her chef was cooking, and they were making tea-smoked duck. I just had never had duck like that in my life. I was just so knocked out with his doing it, how they were being smoked. It was revelatory to me to watch him cooking with the wok and using all the vegetables that I didn’t know about. It was very impressive. It was a demonstration kind of cooking. I didn’t really take a class -- I was there looking in on the class.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So Cecilia was a restaurant owner at the same time as you were. What did it mean to you that she started her restaurant in 1961, and in Japan before then? Did that have any impact on you as a woman chef?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Oh, absolutely. She just took me under her wing, in a way. She taught me everything she knew about taking care of a dining room and what it was to make up a menu. I think that was the part that was particularly impressive to me. Because I was doing single menus at Chez Panisse. She would think about a menu in ways that I’d never imagined before. It was always about what was exactly in season; always ending with fish; and she was always thinking about the textures. I was seated at her side at many banquets so she would be putting things on my plate and showing me how to eat them in sequence. She knew she was passing something on to me, and I was very eager to have it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You, Marion and Cecilia traveled together in Europe and Asia. Can you talk about what that was like?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>It was positively eye-opening to go to China in 1983. We stayed at a guesthouse where Nixon had stayed in China. We were supposedly there for a gastronomic and culinary visit. I realized later that Cecilia was really there to see her family. And she used the idea of this culinary adventure to have access to very special places and for us to have dinner. We ate a lunch at the Summer Palace while we were there. Many times, when we were traveling around, people would stop and listen to Cecilia speaking Mandarin and be very impressed by her and thinking that she was a part of the ruling class of China and following her around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She took us on lots of adventures. One of them was when we went to Hangzhou. There weren’t any restaurants but she saw somebody was getting married at a place she used to like. And she said, “Well, let’s go say hello to these people,” and they invited us to have lunch with them. We had this amazing sweet and sour fish with water chestnuts. Cecilia is always ready to eat and drink and walk and talk and meet. She’s a great traveling companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was pregnant during that trip. It’s quite amazing that now my daughter has an absolute passion for Asian food. We had gone to Japan before and then to China. Sometimes I wonder if it had to do with that time I spent there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>She was exposed to it in your belly.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Yes. It was quite something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That’s fascinating. About \"Soul of a Banquet\" -- what do you think of the film?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>I think it’s so important that her life is recorded because she has influenced and educated a whole generation about Chinese food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Could you talk a little bit about what your friendship with her has meant to you throughout the years?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Oh, it’s precious to me. I’m just writing a memoir about the people that have influenced my life, the women who have influenced my life, and she’s one of the 10 people who’ve had great influence on me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She has a beautiful rhythm to her life. It’s about how you stay vital as you grow older, and what keeps you young. Certainly, her relationship with restaurants, her excitement about tasting things that are new. She is as passionate as she was when I first met her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is an edited version of the interview.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/f3fY6sCQQvc\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/soul-banquet/\" target=\"_blank\">Watch \"Soul of a Banquet\" on PBS. Check local listings.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2015/04/30/meet-soul-of-a-banquets-cecilia-chiang/\" target=\"_blank\">Meet \"Soul of a Banquet‘s\" Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cecilia Chiang shares her recipes for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/lions-head/\" target=\"_blank\">Lion’s Head\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/bon-bon-chicken/\" target=\"_blank\">Bon Bon Chicken\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/mapo-dofu/\" target=\"_blank\">Mapo Dofu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/zha-ziang-mian/\" target=\"_blank\">Zha Ziang Mian\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2015/04/21/soul-of-a-banquet-director-wayne-wang/\" target=\"_blank\">Q&A with \"Soul of a Banquet\" Director Wayne Wang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Momo Chang is the content manager at the \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Center for Asian American Media\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1431102490,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1163},"headData":{"title":"Alice Waters Reflects on Friendship With Cecilia Chiang | KQED","description":"Alice Waters is well-known as the chef and proprietor of the Berkeley, California restaurant Chez Panisse. Waters is a pioneer in modern cuisine, bringing local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients to the plate, before “farm-to-table” was ever a catchphrase. While many know Waters as a chef of French-influenced dishes, Waters has a history with Chinese food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"95890 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=95890","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/05/08/alice-waters-reflects-on-friendship-with-cecilia-chiang/","disqusTitle":"Alice Waters Reflects on Friendship With Cecilia Chiang","nprByline":"Momo Chang, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/caamedia/\">CAAM","path":"/bayareabites/95890/alice-waters-reflects-on-friendship-with-cecilia-chiang","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Alice Waters is well-known as the chef and proprietor of the Berkeley, California restaurant Chez Panisse. Waters is a pioneer in modern cuisine, bringing local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients to the plate, before “farm-to-table” was ever a catchphrase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many know Waters as a chef of French-influenced dishes, Waters has a history with Chinese food. Specifically, one of her longtime friends and mentors is Cecilia Chiang, 95, owner of the former Mandarin Restaurant, which first opened in San Francisco in 1961. Waters met Chiang shortly after opening her own restaurant, Chez Panisse, in 1971. The two have forged a friendship in the past four decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters is the author of 14 books and founder of The Edible Schoolyard Project, which advocates for healthy school lunches and a sustainable food curriculum in every public school. She is also vice president of Slow Food International.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang and Waters are subjects in the new documentary by Wayne Wang, \"Soul of a Banquet,\" which \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/soul-banquet/\" target=\"_blank\">premieres on PBS stations nationally this May\u003c/a>, presented by the Center for Asian American Media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the 40th anniversary of Chez Panisse, Chiang prepared a multi-course Chinese banquet in celebration of Waters and her restaurant, and to raise funds for The Edible Schoolyard Project. Wang filmed the banquet, which kickstarted the documentary about Chiang’s life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters shares how she first met Chiang, reflections on their travels in China, and why she believes her daughter, Fanny, has a passion for Asian food today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>—Momo Chang\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you first meet Cecilia?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>I met her right at the beginning of Chez Panisse. I’m not quite sure when it was, maybe the first three years of Chez Panisse. Our mutual friend, Marion Cunningham, asked me to go to a cooking class that was happening at the Mandarin. So I went there for lunch and I was incredibly impressed and really admired Cecilia as a restaurateur, or I should say, a restauratrice. And we became friends from that point. Very much the three of us -- Marion, Cecilia and myself -- we spent a lot of time together, going out to restaurants, eating at the Mandarin, and ultimately, traveling together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the cooking class like?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>We were in the kitchen. Her chef was cooking, and they were making tea-smoked duck. I just had never had duck like that in my life. I was just so knocked out with his doing it, how they were being smoked. It was revelatory to me to watch him cooking with the wok and using all the vegetables that I didn’t know about. It was very impressive. It was a demonstration kind of cooking. I didn’t really take a class -- I was there looking in on the class.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So Cecilia was a restaurant owner at the same time as you were. What did it mean to you that she started her restaurant in 1961, and in Japan before then? Did that have any impact on you as a woman chef?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Oh, absolutely. She just took me under her wing, in a way. She taught me everything she knew about taking care of a dining room and what it was to make up a menu. I think that was the part that was particularly impressive to me. Because I was doing single menus at Chez Panisse. She would think about a menu in ways that I’d never imagined before. It was always about what was exactly in season; always ending with fish; and she was always thinking about the textures. I was seated at her side at many banquets so she would be putting things on my plate and showing me how to eat them in sequence. She knew she was passing something on to me, and I was very eager to have it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You, Marion and Cecilia traveled together in Europe and Asia. Can you talk about what that was like?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>It was positively eye-opening to go to China in 1983. We stayed at a guesthouse where Nixon had stayed in China. We were supposedly there for a gastronomic and culinary visit. I realized later that Cecilia was really there to see her family. And she used the idea of this culinary adventure to have access to very special places and for us to have dinner. We ate a lunch at the Summer Palace while we were there. Many times, when we were traveling around, people would stop and listen to Cecilia speaking Mandarin and be very impressed by her and thinking that she was a part of the ruling class of China and following her around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She took us on lots of adventures. One of them was when we went to Hangzhou. There weren’t any restaurants but she saw somebody was getting married at a place she used to like. And she said, “Well, let’s go say hello to these people,” and they invited us to have lunch with them. We had this amazing sweet and sour fish with water chestnuts. Cecilia is always ready to eat and drink and walk and talk and meet. She’s a great traveling companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was pregnant during that trip. It’s quite amazing that now my daughter has an absolute passion for Asian food. We had gone to Japan before and then to China. Sometimes I wonder if it had to do with that time I spent there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>She was exposed to it in your belly.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Yes. It was quite something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That’s fascinating. About \"Soul of a Banquet\" -- what do you think of the film?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>I think it’s so important that her life is recorded because she has influenced and educated a whole generation about Chinese food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Could you talk a little bit about what your friendship with her has meant to you throughout the years?\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>Oh, it’s precious to me. I’m just writing a memoir about the people that have influenced my life, the women who have influenced my life, and she’s one of the 10 people who’ve had great influence on me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She has a beautiful rhythm to her life. It’s about how you stay vital as you grow older, and what keeps you young. Certainly, her relationship with restaurants, her excitement about tasting things that are new. She is as passionate as she was when I first met her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is an edited version of the interview.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/f3fY6sCQQvc'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/soul-banquet/\" target=\"_blank\">Watch \"Soul of a Banquet\" on PBS. Check local listings.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2015/04/30/meet-soul-of-a-banquets-cecilia-chiang/\" target=\"_blank\">Meet \"Soul of a Banquet‘s\" Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cecilia Chiang shares her recipes for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/lions-head/\" target=\"_blank\">Lion’s Head\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/bon-bon-chicken/\" target=\"_blank\">Bon Bon Chicken\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/mapo-dofu/\" target=\"_blank\">Mapo Dofu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/food/recipes/zha-ziang-mian/\" target=\"_blank\">Zha Ziang Mian\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/blog/2015/04/21/soul-of-a-banquet-director-wayne-wang/\" target=\"_blank\">Q&A with \"Soul of a Banquet\" Director Wayne Wang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Momo Chang is the content manager at the \u003ca href=\"http://caamedia.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Center for Asian American Media\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/95890/alice-waters-reflects-on-friendship-with-cecilia-chiang","authors":["byline_bayareabites_95890"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_583","bayareabites_9350","bayareabites_14429"],"featImg":"bayareabites_95894","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_46618":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_46618","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"46618","score":null,"sort":[1344034629000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"qa-with-restaurant-critic-michael-bauer","title":"Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer","publishDate":1344034629,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_46636\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 233px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" title=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-46636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a> has been writing about food in the Bay Area for 25 years-- a feat worth noting considering the ever morphing state of journalism. He also manages the biggest newspaper \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">food and wine\u003c/a> staff in the country and his “Tower of Bauer” includes an (often thriving, sometimes experimental) rooftop garden, recipe test kitchen, photo studio, beehives, and a wine cellar with 10,000 bottles. When I was a food department intern in 2002, I saw that Bauer received and ultimately declined scores of invitations to appear at events or, say, be the commencement speaker at the California Culinary Academy graduation ceremony. The organizers of SF Chefs have sweet talked Bauer into appearing behind a screen for what is billed as an \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">“intimate interview”\u003c/a> with restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drew_Nieporent\">Drew Nieporent\u003c/a> tomorrow at the Westin St Francis. As of Friday afternoon, tickets were still available. Bay Area Bites caught up with \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/michaelbauer1\">Bauer\u003c/a> via phone interview and his comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of Bay Area food? What's trendy -- both good and bad?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs far as what’s happening here it’s going really strong. Two years ago was the best year in my 25 years here. It slowed down a little bit and now it’s really good. I’m finding interesting things around the bay and in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest trend is the further casualization of décor & service which can be both good & bad. I’m also seeing the implementation of tasting menus: like \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Saison\u003c/a>, where you get this high-style fixed menu in a barn. Then we have \u003ca href=\"http://www.centralkitchensf.com/\">Central Kitchen\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://sfdixie.com/\">Dixie\u003c/a>. Every chef now wants to do a tasting menu. Which is interesting because I thought the tasting menu was dead in the water five years ago. I think they’ve found ways to make it go quicker because diners don't want to be at the table beyond two and a half hours and chefs want to show off their skills. Also, diners like that guidance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of restaurant reviewing after you’ve spent 25 yrs doing it? Is there anything you wish you knew then that you know now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNo because when you’re in the middle of it, it’s just an ongoing process. It’s hard to look back. Obviously the biggest change has been the internet. But that’s changed everyone’s lives. It’s too soon to see how things will shake out and what the role of traditional media will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You were close with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Marion-Cunningham-food-champion-to-many-3705925.php\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. Can you share any thoughts on her recent passing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was a long slow decline for her and it’s very sad that someone that vital ended up in the situation that she was in. It’s weird that if you talk to a young chef, they have no idea who she is. I was talking to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Gayle Pirie\u003c/a> over this and Marion’s not been out of circulation even five years. The world is moving so fast that history is getting lost so quickly. What she has to offer and what Julia Child has to offer is starting to get lost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a culinary elder now that Marion has passed away?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nShe’s different but \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> is still very active. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like doing a public Q&A event? Yes, you’ll be behind a screen, but how are you preparing for SF Chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrankly I don't even think about it. There’s nothing to be afraid of. I don’t know what Drew will ask. I told him to ask whatever he wants. That's what it's kind of like when you live your life in public. I am hopefully anonymous. I can’t think that anything would surprise me. I think the internet has been a good skin thickener. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>By \"skin thickener\" do you mean comments that people leave on your SF Gate posts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes. I think that generally -- I’m not just talking about where I’m concerned. There seems to be a real lack of civility. I did this dinner with Nancy Pelosi and the comments online were just horrible. And I had a similar experience when I did a dinner with Mourad Lahlou. I think people go on with the worst comments and it doesn't matter who it is. I’m not saying “poor me.” I’m just saying in general it just happens. If I had my way, you’d have to actually sign in to comment on any site, not just our site. It’s okay to be spirited and disagree but you should at least put your name to it. Then at least people have the passion. You may still disagree and you can explain it. These comments come out of left field you don’t know who they are and how to deal with it, and what the background is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about comments on sites like Open Table & Yelp?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you look at comments on Yelp, at least three-fourths of the comments, the people weren’t treated well and they let that color their experience about everything else. This is where I think a restaurant critic is someone who does this differently. I’ve had bad experiences in restaurants but I don’t let that affect how I feel about the food. If you do a good job, you separate the different elements as a critic. If I have a really creepy waiter that does not reflect on the tomato salad I have. That’s the discipline that we have that a consumer does not have. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has social media changed the landscape of food culture and reviewing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t think it’s completely changed what I do and what other critics employed by publications do. It’s probably the same. It’s probably less now about discovery for readers. People used to tune in to find out what’s new. Hopefully you’ve built up respect and people want to read you and see what your opinion is. As we get more information, people will see and want it filtered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you shop for food and do you cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t cook much because I’m out every night. I’m often out on weekends during the day. I do quick lunches that I’ll cook. It could be Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s or Safeway, where I’m picking up food for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do to stay healthy?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEating in restaurants. That’s the healthiest thing you can do, at least the caliber I eat at. I’ve never understood people going on about the rich food at restaurants. To me it’s all about pacing yourself and moderation. I’ve existed on a restaurant diet for 25 yrs and maintained the same weight the whole time. I may go up or down one or two but if that happens, I watch it. I weigh in every day or every other day and go to the health club Monday through Friday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That shows discipline. You’re at work early each day, right?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’m usually at the Chronicle by 5:30am every morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/curiousmikie\">Michael Murphy\u003c/a> meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe met at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.academyoffriends.org/\">Academy of Friends\u003c/a> and have been together for more than 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Have you experienced homophobia as a writer and critic in the food world? What’s your perspective on the gay community, Chick-Fil-A and politics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m sure when you go with a few men for dinner there may be something that happens…. But not here. It’s not like the Midwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t agree with the Chick-Fil-A protest on either side but I think people should make up their mind. It’s fine to make people aware of that but it’s an individual decision on whether or not to patronize them. I guess I’ve never really thought about the gay aspects. You just do your job. So the whole sexuality issue has nothing to do with that. It’s kind of a non-issue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the whole thing of discrimination: a lot of people think that they’re discriminated against because (for instance) it’s a table of women and waiters may not like that. I’ve had African American and Asian people write me because they think they’re discriminated against. And people get discriminated against because they don't dress as well. You can’t really know. Just cause you get a lousy seat it may not be discrimination. It could be an ignorant host who just doesn’t know better. I can tell you that more times than not, I usually go out to restaurants very early. At the most popular restaurant, I’m there when it’s half empty or half full. The majority of the time I’m led to the worst table or nearly the worst table. It’s not because I dress bad. I think it's the inexperienced host; and if they have poor tables that they want to get rid of. If you protest, which I don’t... I’ve seen a host try to seat four different people at the same table. It’s “Okay, let’s give that table and see if anyone’s gullible enough to take it.” And people are not speaking up. That bad table should be saved for a walk-in. People would be happy because they walked in and they get it. It shouldn’t be for people who made a reservation two to three weeks ago and they get it. That can be the point of discrimination--but actually it’s really not a point of discrimination it's the lack of knowledge of person seating. It’s one of my pet peeves. Apparently it’s never gonna change. I’ve written about it so much. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How was Sunday's SF Chefs four-star \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/07/27/how-a-charity-dinner-with-nine-4-star-chefs-comes-together/\">dinner\u003c/a> with Thomas Keller, a benefit for the San Francisco-Marin Food Bank? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was amazing and mind boggling to have those chefs (Douglas Keane, David Kinch, Christopher Kostow, Corey Lee, Roland Passot, Daniel Patterson, Michael Tusk and Alice Waters) there cooking, and that their wine directors came. It was an amazing collaboration that showed why it’s great to live in the Bay Area. You may not get that in other parts of the country and have all these chefs helping each other out. Every chef has an ego but you’re also willing to help others. Quince did an amazing job and it was flawless. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">SF Chefs: The Inside Scoop with Michael Bauer\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, August 4th at 3:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\nWestin St Francis Hotel\u003cbr>\n335 Powell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.eventbrite.com/event/3428620095/eorg\">Tickets\u003c/a>: $28 to $35\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd talks to Michael Bauer, who has worked for 25 years as a restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle. Bauer dishes on the biggest trends in restaurants and shares one of his biggest pet peeves.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1344443370,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1921},"headData":{"title":"Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd talks to Michael Bauer, who has worked for 25 years as a restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle. Bauer dishes on the biggest trends in restaurants and shares one of his biggest pet peeves.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"46618 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=46618","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/03/qa-with-restaurant-critic-michael-bauer/","disqusTitle":"Q&A with Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer","path":"/bayareabites/46618/qa-with-restaurant-critic-michael-bauer","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_46636\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 233px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/Michael-Bauer-final1.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" title=\"Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-46636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Michael Bauer. Photo courtesy of Craig Lee/SF Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a> has been writing about food in the Bay Area for 25 years-- a feat worth noting considering the ever morphing state of journalism. He also manages the biggest newspaper \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/\">food and wine\u003c/a> staff in the country and his “Tower of Bauer” includes an (often thriving, sometimes experimental) rooftop garden, recipe test kitchen, photo studio, beehives, and a wine cellar with 10,000 bottles. When I was a food department intern in 2002, I saw that Bauer received and ultimately declined scores of invitations to appear at events or, say, be the commencement speaker at the California Culinary Academy graduation ceremony. The organizers of SF Chefs have sweet talked Bauer into appearing behind a screen for what is billed as an \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">“intimate interview”\u003c/a> with restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drew_Nieporent\">Drew Nieporent\u003c/a> tomorrow at the Westin St Francis. As of Friday afternoon, tickets were still available. Bay Area Bites caught up with \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/michaelbauer1\">Bauer\u003c/a> via phone interview and his comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of Bay Area food? What's trendy -- both good and bad?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs far as what’s happening here it’s going really strong. Two years ago was the best year in my 25 years here. It slowed down a little bit and now it’s really good. I’m finding interesting things around the bay and in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest trend is the further casualization of décor & service which can be both good & bad. I’m also seeing the implementation of tasting menus: like \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/18/qa-with-saison-chef-joshua-skenes/\">Saison\u003c/a>, where you get this high-style fixed menu in a barn. Then we have \u003ca href=\"http://www.centralkitchensf.com/\">Central Kitchen\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://sfdixie.com/\">Dixie\u003c/a>. Every chef now wants to do a tasting menu. Which is interesting because I thought the tasting menu was dead in the water five years ago. I think they’ve found ways to make it go quicker because diners don't want to be at the table beyond two and a half hours and chefs want to show off their skills. Also, diners like that guidance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s the state of restaurant reviewing after you’ve spent 25 yrs doing it? Is there anything you wish you knew then that you know now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNo because when you’re in the middle of it, it’s just an ongoing process. It’s hard to look back. Obviously the biggest change has been the internet. But that’s changed everyone’s lives. It’s too soon to see how things will shake out and what the role of traditional media will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You were close with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Marion-Cunningham-food-champion-to-many-3705925.php\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. Can you share any thoughts on her recent passing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was a long slow decline for her and it’s very sad that someone that vital ended up in the situation that she was in. It’s weird that if you talk to a young chef, they have no idea who she is. I was talking to \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/28/breakfast-at-show-dogs-with-chefs-gayle-pirie-and-john-clark/\">Gayle Pirie\u003c/a> over this and Marion’s not been out of circulation even five years. The world is moving so fast that history is getting lost so quickly. What she has to offer and what Julia Child has to offer is starting to get lost. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a culinary elder now that Marion has passed away?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nShe’s different but \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a> is still very active. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is it like doing a public Q&A event? Yes, you’ll be behind a screen, but how are you preparing for SF Chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrankly I don't even think about it. There’s nothing to be afraid of. I don’t know what Drew will ask. I told him to ask whatever he wants. That's what it's kind of like when you live your life in public. I am hopefully anonymous. I can’t think that anything would surprise me. I think the internet has been a good skin thickener. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>By \"skin thickener\" do you mean comments that people leave on your SF Gate posts?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes. I think that generally -- I’m not just talking about where I’m concerned. There seems to be a real lack of civility. I did this dinner with Nancy Pelosi and the comments online were just horrible. And I had a similar experience when I did a dinner with Mourad Lahlou. I think people go on with the worst comments and it doesn't matter who it is. I’m not saying “poor me.” I’m just saying in general it just happens. If I had my way, you’d have to actually sign in to comment on any site, not just our site. It’s okay to be spirited and disagree but you should at least put your name to it. Then at least people have the passion. You may still disagree and you can explain it. These comments come out of left field you don’t know who they are and how to deal with it, and what the background is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about comments on sites like Open Table & Yelp?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIf you look at comments on Yelp, at least three-fourths of the comments, the people weren’t treated well and they let that color their experience about everything else. This is where I think a restaurant critic is someone who does this differently. I’ve had bad experiences in restaurants but I don’t let that affect how I feel about the food. If you do a good job, you separate the different elements as a critic. If I have a really creepy waiter that does not reflect on the tomato salad I have. That’s the discipline that we have that a consumer does not have. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has social media changed the landscape of food culture and reviewing?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t think it’s completely changed what I do and what other critics employed by publications do. It’s probably the same. It’s probably less now about discovery for readers. People used to tune in to find out what’s new. Hopefully you’ve built up respect and people want to read you and see what your opinion is. As we get more information, people will see and want it filtered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you shop for food and do you cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t cook much because I’m out every night. I’m often out on weekends during the day. I do quick lunches that I’ll cook. It could be Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s or Safeway, where I’m picking up food for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do to stay healthy?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEating in restaurants. That’s the healthiest thing you can do, at least the caliber I eat at. I’ve never understood people going on about the rich food at restaurants. To me it’s all about pacing yourself and moderation. I’ve existed on a restaurant diet for 25 yrs and maintained the same weight the whole time. I may go up or down one or two but if that happens, I watch it. I weigh in every day or every other day and go to the health club Monday through Friday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That shows discipline. You’re at work early each day, right?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’m usually at the Chronicle by 5:30am every morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/curiousmikie\">Michael Murphy\u003c/a> meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe met at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.academyoffriends.org/\">Academy of Friends\u003c/a> and have been together for more than 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Have you experienced homophobia as a writer and critic in the food world? What’s your perspective on the gay community, Chick-Fil-A and politics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m sure when you go with a few men for dinner there may be something that happens…. But not here. It’s not like the Midwest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don’t agree with the Chick-Fil-A protest on either side but I think people should make up their mind. It’s fine to make people aware of that but it’s an individual decision on whether or not to patronize them. I guess I’ve never really thought about the gay aspects. You just do your job. So the whole sexuality issue has nothing to do with that. It’s kind of a non-issue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the whole thing of discrimination: a lot of people think that they’re discriminated against because (for instance) it’s a table of women and waiters may not like that. I’ve had African American and Asian people write me because they think they’re discriminated against. And people get discriminated against because they don't dress as well. You can’t really know. Just cause you get a lousy seat it may not be discrimination. It could be an ignorant host who just doesn’t know better. I can tell you that more times than not, I usually go out to restaurants very early. At the most popular restaurant, I’m there when it’s half empty or half full. The majority of the time I’m led to the worst table or nearly the worst table. It’s not because I dress bad. I think it's the inexperienced host; and if they have poor tables that they want to get rid of. If you protest, which I don’t... I’ve seen a host try to seat four different people at the same table. It’s “Okay, let’s give that table and see if anyone’s gullible enough to take it.” And people are not speaking up. That bad table should be saved for a walk-in. People would be happy because they walked in and they get it. It shouldn’t be for people who made a reservation two to three weeks ago and they get it. That can be the point of discrimination--but actually it’s really not a point of discrimination it's the lack of knowledge of person seating. It’s one of my pet peeves. Apparently it’s never gonna change. I’ve written about it so much. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How was Sunday's SF Chefs four-star \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/07/27/how-a-charity-dinner-with-nine-4-star-chefs-comes-together/\">dinner\u003c/a> with Thomas Keller, a benefit for the San Francisco-Marin Food Bank? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was amazing and mind boggling to have those chefs (Douglas Keane, David Kinch, Christopher Kostow, Corey Lee, Roland Passot, Daniel Patterson, Michael Tusk and Alice Waters) there cooking, and that their wine directors came. It was an amazing collaboration that showed why it’s great to live in the Bay Area. You may not get that in other parts of the country and have all these chefs helping each other out. Every chef has an ego but you’re also willing to help others. Quince did an amazing job and it was flawless. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfchefsfoodwine.com/events/08/4/inside-scoop-michael-bauer/\">SF Chefs: The Inside Scoop with Michael Bauer\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, August 4th at 3:30 p.m.\u003cbr>\nWestin St Francis Hotel\u003cbr>\n335 Powell Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94102\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.eventbrite.com/event/3428620095/eorg\">Tickets\u003c/a>: $28 to $35\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/46618/qa-with-restaurant-critic-michael-bauer","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_10593","bayareabites_2024","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_10649","bayareabites_2026","bayareabites_10654"],"featImg":"bayareabites_46636","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_31183":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_31183","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"31183","score":null,"sort":[1312910728000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","title":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs","publishDate":1312910728,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"228\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31214\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes. Photos: courtesy of SF Chefs 2011\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of celebrity-chef star power was on display last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefs2011.com\">SF Chefs 2011\u003c/a>. But on Sunday morning, when a lot of event-goers were still sleeping off the effects of Saturday night's tasting-tent cocktails, Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three of the city's true pioneer chefs, were chatting in front of a small but attentive audience, discussing the challenges, achievements, and changes happening then and now in San Francisco's restaurant scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some background, for you newcomers: Nancy Oakes is the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, the brasserie-style New American restaurant at the foot of Mission Street that's 18 years old and still garnering awards and a swarm of reservations every night. Before that, she was the chef/owner of L'Avenue, an acclaimed 50-seat bistro. She also heads the team at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> in Soma, which opened last year to rave reviews. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/25/at-the-mandarin-cecilia-chiang-changed-chinese-food/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, now in her 90s, brought the fiery flavors of Hunan and Szechuan cuisine to a city dominated by Cantonese cooking. She opened the 300-seat Mandarin in Ghirardelli Square in 1968, making it a destination restaurant with sophisticated service and decor. The Mandarin set a standard for high-end, authentic Chinese cooking, and Chiang ran the restaurant until 1991. She later became a consultant for Betelnut on Union Square; her son Phillip went on to found P.F. Chang's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>'s Square One restaurant, in Jackson Square, demonstrated that there was a lot more to real Mediterranean food than spaghetti and dolmas. Goldstein, a cooking teacher and former Cafe at Chez Panisse chef who had lived and traveled extensively all around the Mediterranean, brought the vibrant, sunny flavors of these countries back to California. Square One, which she opened in 1984, offered dishes inspired by everything from Spanish tapas to Turkish mezze to Moroccan tagines. It helped shape the Mediterranean focus of California cuisine that continues today. Goldstein closed the restaurant in 1997, but has continued as a popular cookbook author, teacher, and consultant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many successful women who have weathered the ups and downs of a demanding profession, they get a little tired of being classified as \"women chefs.\" However, this profession is still one that's dominated by men, and it was much more so back in the 1960s, when all three were starting out. But it helped to be in San Francisco. Said Joyce, \"The Bay Area was always progressive. Banks here would lend women money. There were a lot of women entrepreneurs, women running businesses in the city.\" Now, she says, there are a lot of women in the wine business, women not just working as pastry chefs but running their own bakeries, manufacturing their own jams and confections, running businesses rather than just cooking at home for fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang had a different experience, trying to break into what was then a very insular, Cantonese-dominated Chinese food world. Said Chiang, \"I was a woman, and restaurants weren't a women's business. I can't speak Cantonese, and then 90% of the Chinese-restaurant population spoke Cantonese. I would speak Mandarin to them, and they'd laugh at me, be very insulting, treat me like a foreigner. I couldn't get credit at any of the produce, fish, or meat markets in Chinatown; I had to pay cash for everything. The Americans were so kind, they accepted me, but not the Chinese, because I was a woman.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, said Nancy, women in the business are competing on a level playing field, especially here in the Bay Area, where there's more diversity, and kitchens are less dominated by the European boys' club common in New York restaurants. So, why do male chefs still get the lion's share of press and notoriety? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, besides \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a>, who keeps her end up being outrageous, most women chefs don't feel they have to be potty-mouthed in the school of [Anthony] Bourdain and [David] Chang, traveling in packs and dropping f-bombs. Women do this because we like the work, not to be a celebrity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the three of them, they've seen a lot of trends come and go. Foraging, for example, is nothing new. Back in Chez Panisse's early years, Nancy remembered Alice Waters and pastry chef Lindsey Shere constantly picking through the Berkeley backyards of their friends and neighbors, making poundcakes scented with rose geranium leaves, plucking nasturtium blossoms and purslane for salads. \"I keep learning,\" noted Nancy. \"I'm not a chemical-food or foam advocate, but when you've got a bunch of 23-year-olds in the kitchen who are excited about this kind of thing, well, I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-sanctuaire.com\">Le Sanctuaire\u003c/a>, we get out the gels and the foams and see what works, what will really be worth eating, what will stand the test of time. I think you need 100 years to really create a cuisine. How long has it been for California cuisine, 30, 40 years? We're still finding out what will last.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was first starting out, I needed a lot of ingredients that the Cantonese don't use. No one carried them; I had to get everything shipped in from Taiwan. Now, you can get anything in Asian markets, things from all over,\" said Cecilia. She's less impressed with the quality of Chinese restaurants in the Bay Area now. \"The cooks aren't professionally trained, they don't have passion. It's just a business.\" As a restaurant-owning friend pointed out to her, a restaurant can make so much more money off hard liquor and entertainment, like karaoke, there's little incentive to invest in high-quality ingredients or top-notch chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's been so much progression in Mediterranean food. It's much more about specific cuisines now,\" noted Joyce. Restaurants don't just serve Italian food, they serve Roman, Sicilian, or Sardinian food. And the quality of up-and-coming cooks is higher, too. \"Everyone's going to cooking schools, doing \u003cem>stages\u003c/em>...they don't always have the palate or the passion, but they do have the skills.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do they miss? The California-meets-Chinese cuisine of the late \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, for one, whose China Moon Cafe has never been equaled. \"She was a scholar, extremely meticulous, doing Chinese cooking with California ingredients. No else has picked up on that, to the degree that she was doing,\" said Joyce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And where do they go now? \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, said Nancy. \"I like the great spirit there, the service, the wine list where I never recognize anything but always find something interesting, the fact that 10% of the cost of the tasting menu goes to charity.\" Goldstein agreed. Normally suspicious of tech-y modernist cuisine, she said, \"I was pleasantly surprised! Jason Fox understands texture, he understands flavor, and they understand hospitality. I feel the same about \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I bring people there from out of town. Yes, it's boisterous, but the food is solid and grounded, and I love the wine list. Perbacco, too, because I always learn something. And because I like to see the chef actually in the restaurant, in the farmers' market.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, says Cecilia. It's very consistent, and the prices haven't changed. She likes \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com\">Benu\u003c/a>, too, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very hard to stay viable, and stay relevant,\" Nancy admitted. \"It's an art, and it's a business.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three women who shaped the San Francisco restaurant scene come together to discuss the past and future of food at SF Chefs 2011.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1312911024,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1259},"headData":{"title":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs | KQED","description":"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three women who shaped the San Francisco restaurant scene come together to discuss the past and future of food at SF Chefs 2011.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"31183 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=31183","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/09/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs/","disqusTitle":"SF Chefs 2011: Women Pioneer Chefs","path":"/bayareabites/31183/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/sfchefs2011.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"228\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31214\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, Nancy Oakes. Photos: courtesy of SF Chefs 2011\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of celebrity-chef star power was on display last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefs2011.com\">SF Chefs 2011\u003c/a>. But on Sunday morning, when a lot of event-goers were still sleeping off the effects of Saturday night's tasting-tent cocktails, Joyce Goldstein, Cecilia Chiang, and Nancy Oakes, three of the city's true pioneer chefs, were chatting in front of a small but attentive audience, discussing the challenges, achievements, and changes happening then and now in San Francisco's restaurant scene. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some background, for you newcomers: Nancy Oakes is the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, the brasserie-style New American restaurant at the foot of Mission Street that's 18 years old and still garnering awards and a swarm of reservations every night. Before that, she was the chef/owner of L'Avenue, an acclaimed 50-seat bistro. She also heads the team at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> in Soma, which opened last year to rave reviews. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/25/at-the-mandarin-cecilia-chiang-changed-chinese-food/\">Cecilia Chiang\u003c/a>, now in her 90s, brought the fiery flavors of Hunan and Szechuan cuisine to a city dominated by Cantonese cooking. She opened the 300-seat Mandarin in Ghirardelli Square in 1968, making it a destination restaurant with sophisticated service and decor. The Mandarin set a standard for high-end, authentic Chinese cooking, and Chiang ran the restaurant until 1991. She later became a consultant for Betelnut on Union Square; her son Phillip went on to found P.F. Chang's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2008/11/07/check-please-bay-area-season-3-joyce-goldstein-special-391/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a>'s Square One restaurant, in Jackson Square, demonstrated that there was a lot more to real Mediterranean food than spaghetti and dolmas. Goldstein, a cooking teacher and former Cafe at Chez Panisse chef who had lived and traveled extensively all around the Mediterranean, brought the vibrant, sunny flavors of these countries back to California. Square One, which she opened in 1984, offered dishes inspired by everything from Spanish tapas to Turkish mezze to Moroccan tagines. It helped shape the Mediterranean focus of California cuisine that continues today. Goldstein closed the restaurant in 1997, but has continued as a popular cookbook author, teacher, and consultant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many successful women who have weathered the ups and downs of a demanding profession, they get a little tired of being classified as \"women chefs.\" However, this profession is still one that's dominated by men, and it was much more so back in the 1960s, when all three were starting out. But it helped to be in San Francisco. Said Joyce, \"The Bay Area was always progressive. Banks here would lend women money. There were a lot of women entrepreneurs, women running businesses in the city.\" Now, she says, there are a lot of women in the wine business, women not just working as pastry chefs but running their own bakeries, manufacturing their own jams and confections, running businesses rather than just cooking at home for fun. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chiang had a different experience, trying to break into what was then a very insular, Cantonese-dominated Chinese food world. Said Chiang, \"I was a woman, and restaurants weren't a women's business. I can't speak Cantonese, and then 90% of the Chinese-restaurant population spoke Cantonese. I would speak Mandarin to them, and they'd laugh at me, be very insulting, treat me like a foreigner. I couldn't get credit at any of the produce, fish, or meat markets in Chinatown; I had to pay cash for everything. The Americans were so kind, they accepted me, but not the Chinese, because I was a woman.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, said Nancy, women in the business are competing on a level playing field, especially here in the Bay Area, where there's more diversity, and kitchens are less dominated by the European boys' club common in New York restaurants. So, why do male chefs still get the lion's share of press and notoriety? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well, besides \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a>, who keeps her end up being outrageous, most women chefs don't feel they have to be potty-mouthed in the school of [Anthony] Bourdain and [David] Chang, traveling in packs and dropping f-bombs. Women do this because we like the work, not to be a celebrity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the three of them, they've seen a lot of trends come and go. Foraging, for example, is nothing new. Back in Chez Panisse's early years, Nancy remembered Alice Waters and pastry chef Lindsey Shere constantly picking through the Berkeley backyards of their friends and neighbors, making poundcakes scented with rose geranium leaves, plucking nasturtium blossoms and purslane for salads. \"I keep learning,\" noted Nancy. \"I'm not a chemical-food or foam advocate, but when you've got a bunch of 23-year-olds in the kitchen who are excited about this kind of thing, well, I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-sanctuaire.com\">Le Sanctuaire\u003c/a>, we get out the gels and the foams and see what works, what will really be worth eating, what will stand the test of time. I think you need 100 years to really create a cuisine. How long has it been for California cuisine, 30, 40 years? We're still finding out what will last.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I was first starting out, I needed a lot of ingredients that the Cantonese don't use. No one carried them; I had to get everything shipped in from Taiwan. Now, you can get anything in Asian markets, things from all over,\" said Cecilia. She's less impressed with the quality of Chinese restaurants in the Bay Area now. \"The cooks aren't professionally trained, they don't have passion. It's just a business.\" As a restaurant-owning friend pointed out to her, a restaurant can make so much more money off hard liquor and entertainment, like karaoke, there's little incentive to invest in high-quality ingredients or top-notch chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's been so much progression in Mediterranean food. It's much more about specific cuisines now,\" noted Joyce. Restaurants don't just serve Italian food, they serve Roman, Sicilian, or Sardinian food. And the quality of up-and-coming cooks is higher, too. \"Everyone's going to cooking schools, doing \u003cem>stages\u003c/em>...they don't always have the palate or the passion, but they do have the skills.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do they miss? The California-meets-Chinese cuisine of the late \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2011/05/26/reaching-for-the-moon-at-china-moon-cafe/\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a>, for one, whose China Moon Cafe has never been equaled. \"She was a scholar, extremely meticulous, doing Chinese cooking with California ingredients. No else has picked up on that, to the degree that she was doing,\" said Joyce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And where do they go now? \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, said Nancy. \"I like the great spirit there, the service, the wine list where I never recognize anything but always find something interesting, the fact that 10% of the cost of the tasting menu goes to charity.\" Goldstein agreed. Normally suspicious of tech-y modernist cuisine, she said, \"I was pleasantly surprised! Jason Fox understands texture, he understands flavor, and they understand hospitality. I feel the same about \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I bring people there from out of town. Yes, it's boisterous, but the food is solid and grounded, and I love the wine list. Perbacco, too, because I always learn something. And because I like to see the chef actually in the restaurant, in the farmers' market.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, says Cecilia. It's very consistent, and the prices haven't changed. She likes \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com\">Benu\u003c/a>, too, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com\">Prospect\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very hard to stay viable, and stay relevant,\" Nancy admitted. \"It's an art, and it's a business.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/31183/sf-chefs-2011-women-pioneer-chefs","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9580","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_4003","bayareabites_9581","bayareabites_9582"],"featImg":"bayareabites_31214","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Consider-This_3000_V3-copy-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2022/06/forum-logo-900x900tile-1.gif","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/FreshAir_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/HereNow_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this","airtime":"SUN 7:30pm-8pm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/how-i-built-this","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/How-I-Built-This-p910896/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510313/podcast.xml"}},"inside-europe":{"id":"inside-europe","title":"Inside Europe","info":"Inside Europe, a one-hour weekly news magazine hosted by Helen Seeney and Keith Walker, explores the topical issues shaping the continent. No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/insideEurope.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. Download Chris’s Song of the Week plus other highlights from the broadcast. Produced by American Public Media.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-8pm, SUN 11am-1pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/liveFromHere.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.livefromhere.org/","meta":{"site":"arts","source":"american public media"},"link":"/radio/program/live-from-here-highlights","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1167173941","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Live-from-Here-Highlights-p921744/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/a-prairie-home-companion-highlights/rss/rss"}},"marketplace":{"id":"marketplace","title":"Marketplace","info":"Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.","airtime":"MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/Marketplace_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.marketplace.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"American Public Media"},"link":"/radio/program/marketplace","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=201853034&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/APM-Marketplace-p88/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"}},"mindshift":{"id":"mindshift","title":"MindShift","tagline":"A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids","info":"The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/mindshift2021-tile-3000x3000-1-scaled-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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