Healthy Butternut Squash Soup

There are times for luxurious butternut squash soup laced with brown butter and then there are times for a more austere version that doesn't involve homemade stock, a gaggle of aromatics, bouquet garni, and tedious straining. This isn't a knock on the former -- she's an elegant special occasion soup, and you can taste the extra fuss that goes into her. Sometimes though, you just want an everyday soup -- a practical gal that's into healthiness, nourishment, and minimum effort.

For times like these, I turn to my Healthy Butternut Squash Soup. Comforting, satisfying, zero-guilt goodness, step right up. Did I mention, it only requires 3 main ingredients? Butternut squash, onion, chicken (or vegetable) broth. How wholesome.

The recipe is simple. Cut up the butternut squash and onion, and roast until soft and delightfully caramelized. The roasting takes some time, but it's dead time -- just stick it in the oven, set a timer, and go do something else. Then, bring your broth to a simmer in a large pot, add the roasted veggies, and puree. That's it!

Finish with a drizzle of EVOO or spoonful of plain yogurt for a little extra panache. Serve with some tomato focaccia or garlicky bread sticks if you'd like. (I do.) Simple, good, healthy -- it's hard to eat this without feeling self-congratulatory.

Butternut Squash Soup and Tomato Focaccia

Healthy Butternut Squash Soup
Comforting, nourishing, zero-guilt goodness, using only 3 main ingredients. You just can't beat that.

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:

1 butternut squash
1 yellow onion
32 oz. chicken (or vegetable) broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Peel, de-seed, and dice the squash into roughly 1-inch cubes (doesn't need to be perfect).

Peel and dice the onion into roughly 1-inch pieces.

Place the squash and onion onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Roast in oven for 45-50 minutes until squash is lightly golden and fork-tender.

In a large pot, bring the broth to a simmer. Add the roasted veggies. Puree using an immersion blender, regular blender, or food processor. (If using a regular blender or food processor, work in batches so that your container isn't full to the brim, and be careful not to burn yourself). Finish with a drizzle of EVOO or spoonful of plain yogurt if you'd like, and enjoy!

Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork

I'm a huge fan of polenta. It's rich, creamy, warm, and comforting, and the perfect blank canvas to work with. I almost always add a nice handful of cheese to the mix (think cheesey grits), sometime I wilt some spinach or arugula into it to boost the health quotient, or my latest favorite add-in has been roasted butternut squash. The sweet caramelized squash marries well with the wholesome sweet cornmeal.

Not only is polenta delicious, it is also very forgiving, as I learned from Joyce Goldstein, who taught me how to make a pumpkin polenta with pork and chestnut stew. As Goldstein says, unlike risotto, which you have to serve right away, polenta you can baby, and keep it on the stove until you're ready.

Another reason I love polenta so much is for its versatility. You can serve it freshly made, while it has the consistency of warm pudding. Or, you can chill it in a baking sheet, and then cut it out into shapes (squares, triangles, strips, rounds, whatever you desire) to pan fry into the best leftovers you've ever had.

For my freshly made version, I paired my butternut squash polenta with a deceptively easy pulled pork. I started with a lean and inexpensive cut of pork tenderloin, and seared it off so that a nice golden crust formed on both sides. Then, the aromatics (onion and garlic) and spices (chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne) are introduced. The cinnamon and cumin in particular add a great smoky-sweet dimension, while the chili and cayenne bring some heat. Now for the tang. Ketchup and apple cider vinegar create the acidity that really flavors the meat. The pork is shredded and then left to simmer in the sauce. The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for this tangy, saucy pulled pork.

Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread

Now, for the leftover polenta! Pan-fried polenta cakes make for the perfect hors d'oeuvres because you can top them with virtually anything. I love topping my butternut squash polenta cakes with a roasted veggie spread made with eggplant, red peppers, red onion, and tomato paste.

Best of all, you can make this dish ahead of time. The veggie spread can be whirred up the day before and kept in the fridge. And, the polenta cakes can even be cut up ahead of time and kept under plastic wrap. When you're ready to assemble, simply dust the polenta cakes with a flour/cornstarch mix to make sure they get a nice crust, and you're good to go.

If the idea of jockeying for a reservation at an expensive restaurant on 2/14 makes you cringe, why not spend Valentine's Day at home and cozy up to a romantic meal made with love. Whether it's a homey dish of Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork, or a fancy looking appetizer of Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread, polenta will be sure to earn you some big points with your honey.

*****

Butternut Squash Polenta with Pulled Pork
The sweet richness of the butternut squash polenta provides the perfect accompaniment for the tangy, saucy pulled pork.

Serves: 6-8

For the Pulled Pork
Recipe adapted from the Food Network.

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound, cut into 4 pieces

Preparation:

1. In a large pot heat the oil over medium heat. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add the pork to the pot and sear both sides, flipping only once so that a nice golden crust forms. Remove the pork and set aside.
2. Add the onion and garlic to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook until softened and lightly browned (about 5 minutes). Add the chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until toasted (1 minute more).
3. Stir in the broth, ketchup, vinegar, and brown sugar. Bring to a simmer and add the pork. Simmer, covered, until the pork is just cooked through and tender (about 20 minutes).
4. Remove the pork to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes. Increase the heat on the remaining sauce in the pot to medium-high and cook until thickened (about 5 minutes). Remove from the heat.
5. Shred the pork with two forks into large chunks and add back into the thickened sauce. Toss well to coat. Let stand 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, to let the pork absorb the sauce.

For the Polenta
Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)
7 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.
3. Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.
4. Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.

Note: To make polenta cakes with leftovers, spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready cut into shapes and pan fry.

*****
Butternut Squash Polenta Cakes with Roasted Veggie Spread
If you've already refrigerated your leftover polenta, skip to Step 6.

Serves: 8-10 (as an appetizer)

For the Polenta
Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups polenta (or coarse cornmeal)
7 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper
1/2 cup flour + 2 tablespoons cornstarch
oil for frying

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Peel the squash, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into 1-inch cubes (Tip: microwave the entire squash for a few minutes so that it's easier to cut into). Place the squash on a foil-lined baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast until soft and edges are lightly browned (30-40 min). Set aside.
3. Combine polenta and cold water in a large saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat, stirring often, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Mix in squash and stir, mashing up the squash. Continue cooking until the cornmeal is no longer grainy on your tongue (about another 15 minutes); add more water if needed if the polenta becomes too thick.
4. Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in butter to finish.
5. Spread the polenta evenly onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
6. Cut the polenta out in squares.
7. Dust both sides with the flour/cornstarch mixture.
8. Heat up some oil in a frying pan and fry the polenta squares, flipping once, so that a browned crust forms on each side.
9. Cut into triangles, top with a spoonful of Roasted Veggie Spread, and sprinkle with grated Parmigiano. Serve immediately.

For the Roasted Veggie Spread
Recipe adapted from Ina Garten.

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients:
1 medium eggplant
2 red bell peppers, seeded
1 red onion, peeled
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste

Preparation:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Cut the eggplant, bell pepper, and onion into 1-inch cubes. Toss them in a large bowl with the garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet.
3. Roast for 45 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned and soft, tossing once during cooking. Cool slightly.
4. Place the vegetables in a food processor, add the tomato paste, and blend until everything is pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

A steaming plate of enchiladas is one of my favorite meals. I love how the depth of flavor in a good enchilada sauce wakes up the tongue; and then of course there's the added bonus of melted cheese. But the process of making enchiladas is a bit fussy. Baked while sitting rank and file, nestled against each other in a queue, they demand a tidy symmetry. The result is a row of neat and snug packages wrapped in their own corn tortillas, which is lovely on the plate, but unnecessary for a family dinner. Anyone who has gone through the process of making homemade enchiladas knows that filling each individual tortilla can be time consuming and messy; plus traditional enchilada sauce is difficult to make from scratch and it's hard to find a good one in a can or jar. It is for all these reasons that I abandoned making red sauce enchiladas at home and instead converted my recipe into a casserole. Little did I realize how good this dish would be, how inexpensive it would be to make, nor how much my family would love it.

The casserole's innate unruly character seemed like a perfect fit for enchilada's zesty ingredients. I figured I would use many of the same components -- chicken, cheese and a red sauce -- and then crossed my fingers that I would end up with something that was close to enchiladas. Yet as with so much in life, making what seemed a paltry amendment to preparation instructions ended up altering the finished product's essence. With the ingredients now added in a hodgepodge of layers, the spices and flavors were given the freedom to intermingle while chilies, sour cream and cheese were at liberty to melt into each other. And while conventional enchilada sauces are made up of dried chilies, I felt that the freewheeling nature of the casserole gave me license to be a bit more innovative. Okay, fine, I only added in tomatoes as a sauce base, but I never would have done this if I'd been making old-school enchiladas. When all was said and done, and I removed that bubbling cheesy dish from the oven, I found that enchilada casserole tastes even more luxurious than its authentic cousin.

As with enchiladas, this casserole is full of southwestern ingredients. Fresh Anaheim chili peppers cooked with chicken (or vegetables), onions, tomatoes, cumin, and Mexican oregano, not to mention a nice dose of chili powder, provides the satisfying Mexican flavors you expect but also a little more. You can also add in a jalapeno for some heat. If you want to keep this dish meat-free, just use roasted butternut or acorn squash instead of chicken (and savor the sweet earthy taste of those vegetables against the mildly picante flavors of the sauce).

Making the filling for this one-dish meal is a breeze, but assembling it is even easier. After toasting the tortillas a bit in a pan, you just layer half of them in a casserole dish, top with half the filling, some cheese and sour cream, and then add on another layer. That's it.

So if you love enchiladas, but aren't crazy about making them; or if you simply crave an easy-to-make hearty one-dish meal that will please your entire family, here is my recipe for Cheesy Enchilada Casserole. The main recipe uses chicken but I've also included a vegetarian alternative that uses butternut or acorn squash at the end. Both are great choices for an easy and hearty dinner at home.

Cheesy Chicken Enchilada Casserole

Makes: one 9 x 13 casserole

Ingredients:

12 corn tortillas
5 chicken thighs (or two cups leftover chicken)
½ cup chicken stock or water
2 large Anaheim peppers chopped
½ large onion chopped
1 Tbsp plus ½ tsp Ancho or Chipotle chili powder (regular chili powder can be subbed in, but the Ancho and Chipotle are so good they're worth seeking out)
1 tsp cumin
1 Tbsp Mexican oregano (or regular)
1 15 oz can diced tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
2/3 cup sour cream
¼ cup milk
1 cup shredded Monterey jack, Colby or cheddar cheese (use 1 ½ cups if not using Cotijo)
½ cup Cotijo cheese (optional)
1 Tbsp lime juice
¼ cup chopped cilantro (optional)
1 Tbsp corn or vegetable oil (or enough to thinly coat the bottom of a large pan)

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. If using fresh chicken, place thighs in a pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and about ½ tsp chili powder and then cover with chicken stock or water. Cook covered for 7-10 minutes, turning over after about 4 minutes. Simmer until cooked through and then remove both chicken and broth from the pan to cool. Shred chicken and keep the broth in a separate dish.

3. Heat the same pan (now empty) to medium heat and then add in the oil, chopped Anaheim peppers and onions. If using jalapeno, add now. Sauté for 10 minutes.

4. Add in the rest of your chili powder plus your cumin and oregano. Be sure to crush the oregano in your hand first (as this releases the flavors more thoroughly into the dish). Add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Add in your shredded chicken (if using chopped leftover chicken add in now), broth, and tomatoes and stir until everything is thoroughly mixed in. Taste and then add more salt if needed. Simmer for 15 - 20 minutes on low heat.

6. Heat a medium pan (I like to use cast iron) to warm up your tortillas. I use medium high heat. Add in a little oil (must enough to barely cover the bottom of the pan) and fry each tortilla until warmed through and slightly crisp. Set aside on a plate.

7. Mix the cilantro and lime juice into your filling and stir. Taste one more time to see if you need to add any salt or pepper and then remove from heat.

8. Mix the milk into your sour cream (whisking to combine) and then set up a workspace with your 9 x 13" pan (which you should spray or line with oil), tortillas, grated cheeses, and filling.

9. Using a ladle, scoop mostly sauce (i.e., not much meat or vegetables) into the bottom of the casserole dish and then lay 6 of your heated tortillas into the bottom of the pan. Top with half your filling followed by drizzling on half your sour cream (making sure you even distribute). Set half your cheese on top of that and then repeat by laying on the remaining tortillas, filling, sour cream and cheeses.

10. Set dish in the oven for about 30 minutes (25 if using a convection oven) or until the entire casserole is warmed through and the cheese is bubbly.

11. Serve and enjoy.

Cheesy Squash Enchilada Casserole Variation
Follow the above instructions with the following alteration:

1. Instead of cooking the chicken in step 1, roast your peeled and chopped squash in the oven with some olive oil and salt until al dente.

2. In step 5 leave out the chicken (obviously) and add in ½ cup vegetable broth instead. Also, do not add in your squash yet as you don't want to overcook it. Instead just simmer your other vegetables in the tomatoes and broth.

3. Add your cubed and roasted squash in step 7.

Butternut Squash Soup with Gingerbread and Brown Butter

I recently revisited one of my favorite cozy neighborhood gems, Firefly, and was just smitten with their Fairy Tale Pumpkin Soup with Gingerbread Crouton, Golden Sage and Brown Butter. The flavors were spot on. Roasted butternut squash pureed to a luxurious, velvety texture, seasoned with brown butter and caressed by warm sage notes. It reminded me right away of a soup I discovered awhile back in Thomas Keller's Bouchon.

BOUCHON by THOMAS KELLER (Artisan Books) Copyright 2004. (Photo Credit: Deborah Jones)

TK's Butternut Squash Soup with Brown Butter, Sage and Nutmeg Crème Fraîche had a similar weak-in-the-knees-good effect on me with its layers of rich, harmonious flavors and that ethereal silkiness. (I connected the dots when I learned that Keller influence wasn't incidental. Firefly's new chef, Henry Zamora, previously trained at the French Laundry.)

With hot soup and butternut squash season upon us, I was inspired to recreate Firefly's fanciful rendition with homemade gingerbread. The gingerbread "crouton" was less of a typical crunchy crouton and more of a deep, dark, sticky square of dense bread, so my first step was to find a great recipe for gingerbread.

Black Sticky Gingerbread

I struck spicy sweet gold with Regan Daley's (In the Sweet Kitchen) Black Sticky Gingerbread recipe.

Ginger, cinnamon, cloves, allspice

The fragrance of ginger, cinnamon, and cloves filled the house as the bread baked up, instantly elating my mood and prematurely transporting me to Christmas time and fireplaces.

Grandma's Molasses

Plus, the combination of dark unsulphered molasses, local sage honey, brown sugar, and plenty of butter resulted in just the kind of gingerbread I looking for. Tall, dark, and handsome (minus the tall…and ok, the handsome…but definitely deep, dark, and rich). I'm for sure tucking this recipe away for the holidays – little mini loaves would make a pretty homemade gift.

With the gingerbread under my belt, I turned to my tried and true recipe for butternut squash soup from Bouchon. My one minor change: the gingerbread was so good I wanted it to shine on its own as the only accompaniment, so I omitted Keller's nutmeg-spiked crème fraiche and fried sage leaves garnish. I did, however, definitely keep in the finishing drizzle of brown butter. Giddy-up.

Butternut Squash Soup with Gingerbread and Brown Butter

Butternut Squash Soup with Gingerbread and Brown Butter

The soup portion of this recipe is excerpted from BOUCHON by THOMAS KELLER (Artisan Books). Copyright 2004.

Serves: 6

Ingredients:
One 3- to 3 1/2-pound butternut squash
2 tablespoons canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sage sprigs
1 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) leeks, white and light green parts only
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) carrots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) shallots
1/2 cup thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) onions
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons honey
6 cups Vegetable Stock, plus extra if necessary
Bouquet Garni
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
Black Sticky Gingerbread

Preparation:

For the soup:
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil.

2. Cut the neck off the squash and set it aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out and discard the seeds. Brush each half inside and out with about 1 1/2 teaspoons of the canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper and tuck a sprig of sage into each. Place cut side down on the baking sheet and roast for about 1 hour, or until completely tender.

3. Remove the squash from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle, then scoop out and reserve the flesh (discard the sage).

4. Meanwhile, using a paring knife or sharp vegetable peeler, peel away the skin from the neck of the squash until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the flesh into 1/2-inch pieces (these will be pureed, so don't be concerned if the pieces are irregularly shaped). (You should have approximately 4 cups diced squash.)

5. Put the remaining 1 tablespoon canola oil in a stockpot over medium-high heat, add the leeks, carrots, shallots, and onions, and cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes, reducing the heat as necessary to keep the garlic and squash from coloring. Stir in the honey and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock and bouquet garni, bring to a simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the squash is tender.

6. Add the roasted squash and simmer gently for about 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Remove from the heat and discard the bouquet garni.

7. Transfer the soup to a blender, in batches, and puree. Strain the soup through a fine strainer into a bowl or other container, tapping the side of the strainer so the soup passes through. (Do not skip this step. Straining it is what gives this soup its incredible texture.) Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning. Let the soup cool, then refrigerate until ready to serve.

To complete:
1. Reheat the soup. If it is too thick, add a little more vegetable stock.

2. Heat a medium skillet over high heat. When it is very hot, add the butter and rotate the skillet over the heat as necessary to brown the butter evenly, scraping up any bits that settle in the bottom. As soon as the foaming has subsided and the butter is a hazelnut brown, pour it into the pot of soup, reserving some to drizzle on top of the soup as a garnish. (Be careful not to leave the butter over the heat too long, as it can change from rich brown to black in seconds.)

3. Ladle the soup into serving bowls. Top each with a piece of gingerbread. Drizzle the remaining brown butter over the top of each bowl.

I used to think gnocchi was difficult to make. After numerous attempts, it seemed almost impossible to achieve the light and delicate texture I desired. I tried using both potatoes and butternut squash, but the results were always disappointing: heavy and dense dumplings instead of the tender pillows I craved.

After doing a little research, I discovered Lydia Bastianich's potato gnocchi recipe with these wonderful words of advice: "…keep it light; the more you work the dough, the more flour you'll need, and you don't want to incorporate too much or the gnocchi will be heavy and dry." Eureka! I had always thought making gnocchi was like making pasta dough, but after reading Lydia's instructions, realized my attempts were misguided. Trying to attain a pasta texture, I always added too much flour and overworked my dough.

I stashed this sage advice in a little storeroom in my brain: something to be used later when gnocchi was on the menu. That day arrived last weekend when it was rainy and cold outside and I had a butternut squash sitting on my counter waiting to be used.

You see, I like to make my gnocchi using squash instead of potatoes. Although potato gnocchi is fantastic, squash's natural sweetness is incredibly appealing when paired with a browned butter sauce, and the texture is perfect for gnocchi.

After roasting my squash with some olive oil, sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, I was ready to go. I put the squash through a ricer and then gently mixed in the remaining ingredients. The texture seemed far too mushy to handle, but I really wanted to follow Lydia's advice, so I refrained from adding more flour. With a pot of boiling salted water by my side, I gently cut off pieces of the dough, carefully setting each batch on top of some flour I had scattered on my counter top, being careful not to use too much.

I set to work making long snakes of gnocchi dough that I then cut into 1/2-inch pieces. After shaping each one, I carefully set the lot in my hot water and watched as they cooked in the simmering pot. Although I was afraid the gnocchi would fall apart, they instead formed into beautiful little mounds. When cooked through, I set my dumplings in a pan of browned butter with herbs.

My gnocchi was light and airy yet retained a stable consistency. The squash flavor was sweet but subtle and paired beautifully with the brown butter and herb sauce. My husband claimed them to be the best gnocchi I’d ever made. Thank you, Lydia!

Butternut Squash Gnocchi in Brown Butter Sauce

Makes: Enough for four people

Ingredients:

1 medium or 2/3 1 large butternut squash
2 cups flour
1 egg scrambled in a bowl
Olive oil (enough to drizzle onto squash when baking)
Salt and pepper to taste
Brown Butter Sauce (recipe below)

Preparation:

Baking the Squash

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Peel squash. Cut in half and then seed. Slice into ¼-inch pieces.
3. Drizzle a large pan or baking dish with olive oil and then set the squash on top. Drizzle on more olive oil and then sprinkle on salt and pepper.
4. Set baking dish in oven and bake for 20-25 minutes or until squash in cooked through (fork tender).

Making the Gnocchi Dough

1. Fill a large pasta pot with water and bring to a boil. Add 1 heaping tablespoon with salt and add. Simmer until ready for use.
2. Cool squash and then put through a ricer. If you don't have one you can finely squash with a fork.

3. Place riced squash in a large bowl and add the egg and flour. Sprinkle in a dash of salt and add a few grinds of pepper.
4. Gently mix ingredients with a fork until just mixed.

5. Place about a ½ cup of flour on a solid surface (such as a large cutting board or counter top), quarter the dough, and set one piece on the flour. Shape into a snake and then cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Gently flick each piece with the tongs of a fork to shape and set aside on a floured dish. Repeat until all gnocchi are made.

6. Place gnocchi in the pot of boiling water and cook for 2-3 minutes or until plump and floating at the top of the water. Be sure to mix the gnocchi in the water after adding as they have a tendency to sink.
7. Place cooked gnocchi into your pan of brown butter sauce (recipe below) and cook on medium high for one minute. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.

Brown Butter Sauce

Makes: Enough for one batch gnocchi

Ingredients:

½ stick butter

1/8 cup chopped fresh herbs (Sage is wonderful, but you can also use Italian parsley, oregano, or basil)

¼ cup toasted walnuts (optional)

salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
1. Heat the butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat.
2. If using walnuts, add and brown now. Add in the herbs along with a dash of salt and pepper.
3. Turn off the heat until ready for use. When gnocchi is ready, heat pan to medium again and then sauté dumplings in the butter sauce for one minute.

Did you know that today is National Cheese Lover's Day? Isn't that lovely?

To commemorate this happy holiday, the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board is launching a Macaroni & Cheese Blog which will feature a new macaroni & cheese recipe every day for thirty days. There goes that New Year's resolution (unless your resolution was to be happier in life).

I've always been partial to using gruyere and parmigiano for mac 'n' cheese, but the good people at Wisconsin Milk convinced me to give American a try. They sent me some aged Marieke Gouda and Stravecchio Parmesan from Sartori Reserve...and I was promptly inspired.

Without a question, the ultimate comfort food is macaroni and cheese. Gooey, cheesy, warm, and indulgent. The inspiration on this twist on the classic mac 'n' cheese comes from one of my favorite pasta dishes, Tortelli di Zucca (large ravioli-like pasta stuffed with a pumpkin filling).

I first sampled this taste of heaven during my year abroad living in Italy. On a visit to the charming Renaissance city of Mantova (Mantua), I was introduced to the town's signature dish of handmade ravioli stuffed with a velvety smooth puree of pumpkin, crushed almondy Amaretti cookies, and a hint of spices. The al dente pillows of precious filled pasta were bathed in a luxurious sauce of brown butter and a shower of parmigiano.

That meal has haunted me for 6 years.

And it has coaxed me into creating this Italian-American fusion of ultimate comfort, Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust.

Butternut squash is one of my favorite ingredients to work with during the fall and winter because it just exudes a sweet, hearty, warmth. When it's roasted, all the sugars caramelize and the flavor of the squash is intensified.

Pair it with the other star ingredient in this dish, the aged Gouda, and we have ourselves a sweet-and-savory homerun!

The technique to making this dish is pretty standard as far as mac and cheese goes. After sautéing the onions and sage, a roux is made with flour, chicken stock, and milk.

Then the squash is added to the mix...

...and smashed in a bit to fully incorporate.

Once the sauce is made, it is added to the macaroni (since we can't all be as blessed as the Mantuans with their homemade pasta at a finger's snap).

After that, comes the magic of toppings. I loved how the nutty spice of the Amaretti cookies played with the flavor of the pumpkin in the Tortelli di Zucca. In this mac and cheese, that sweet, unexpected crunch translates as gingersnaps. I also threw in a handful of chopped pecans too because I love how their faintly maple flavor goes with sweet potatoes, and I thought...butternut squash? Sweet potato? Pretty similar, no? (At the very least, both orange.)

I may not be able to jet-set to Italy whenever I get the craving for some tortelli lovin', but that doesn't mean I can't get my fix of pumpkin and spice and everything nice! Surprise your guests with this dish this winter. The presentation is beautiful and homey, and one bite will have them coming for more.

Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 lb elbow macaroni
1 small onion, diced
1 cup chicken stock
1 ½ cups nonfat milk
3 tbsp butter
2 tbsp flour
1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced
2 cups grated aged Marieke Gouda cheese
1 cup grated Stravecchio Parmesan cheese (Sartori Reserve, 2 year aged)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
pinch of cayenne pepper
½ cup crumbled gingersnap cookies (about 8 cookies)
½ cup chopped pecans
1 tbsp olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper

Preparation:

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Toss the squash with olive oil, salt and pepper to season. Roast on a foil-lined baking sheet for 20-25 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside and turn the oven down to 350 degrees.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add macaroni and cook until al dente according to the package instructions, about 8 minutes.

3. While the pasta cooks, heat a large pan over medium heat. Add the butter, chopped onion, and sage. Saute about 4-5 minutes until onions are translucent. Add the flour and stir to combine. Let the mixture cook for 1-2 more minutes. Whisk in stock and milk, and let come to a boil to thicken up.

4. Next, add the cheeses, mustard, nutmeg, and cayenne. Stir to combine. Then, mix in the squash. Use a whisk to mash up the squash a little. I prefer to leave a few chunky pieces of the squash in the sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Drain the cooked pasta and return it to the pot. Pour the sauce over the pasta and combine well. Pour the mac 'n' cheese into a buttered casserole dish. Sprinkle the gingersnap cookie crumble and pecans over the top and drizzle with a little olive oil.

6. Cover with foil and bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes more.

Butternut Squash

When I lived in Bologna, my Italian roommate Mariangela would make this heavenly Butternut Squash Risotto on special occasions. She would stand there by the stove, stirring away with her ancient looking wooden spoon (she claimed it imparted extra flavor) until a magical transformation took place and plain rice became creamy risotto. She would then finish it off with a generous drizzle of the liquid gold her mother would ship to her from their olive grove in Calabria.

This dish holds a special place in my heart because it reminds me of long, hearty meals around a dining room table that gets cozier as the night progresses and louder as the wine flows. Which, come to think of it, is maybe why I think it's the perfect Thanksgiving dish as well.

Risotto: premature stages

Risotto: fully bloomed

Mariangela taught me a few tricks of the trade to making her risotto:
1) Don't forget to shred a carrot into the mix. Since carrot is a natural sweetener, it will bring out the sweetness of the butternut squash.
2) Don't forget to toast the rice a bit before you start adding liquid. It brings out the flavor of the rice and also helps in getting that nice, slightly al dente chew at the end.
3) Don't forget to bring the broth to a simmer before adding it to the rice.
4) Don't forget to add the broth one ladle at a time, waiting until it is absorbed by the rice until more is added.
5) Don't forget to pour yourself a nice glass of wine while you stir.

Risotto takes time and TLC, but it's well worth it. For Thanksgiving, roast off the squash ahead of time and keep it ready for use in an airtight container. You can even make the entire dish ahead of time and keep it in a large casserole dish ready to reheat in the oven before serving.

Butternut Squash Risotto

This Butternut Squash Risotto is meant to be shared and enjoyed with those near and dear to you. It is warm and comforting, creamy and rich, and taste like home.

Butternut Squash Risotto

Serves: 10-12

Ingredients:
1 small butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds), or 1 package pre-cut
32 oz chicken broth (2 boxes)
1 small onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated ginger
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of nutmeg
½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
Olive oil for roasting and finishing

Preparation:

Roast the Butternut Squash
1. Preheat oven to 450°F with the rack in the middle.
2. If using pre-cut squash, drizzle with about a tablespoon of olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and roast on a foil-lined baking sheet for 20-25 minutes until lightly browned. (Skip to step 5).
3. If using a whole squash, microwave the entire squash for 3-4 minutes so that it's easier to cut through. Halve squash lengthwise and discard seeds.
4. Peel one half and cut into 1-inch dice. Put remaining half, cut side down, in an oiled foil-lined baking pan with diced squash and season with salt and pepper. Bake the squash, stirring the diced pieces occasionally, until tender and browned lightly, 20-25 minutes. Holding halved squash in a kitchen towel, scoop out flesh and coarsely chop.
5. Set aside. (Roasting can be done 1-2 days ahead of time and kept in an airtight container in the fridge.)

Making the Risotto
6. In a saucepan bring broth to a simmer and keep at a bare simmer.
7. In a large pot melt the butter and add onion, carrot, garlic, and ginger. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened.
8. Stir in rice and let it toast a bit, stirring constantly, about 1 minute.
9. Add wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed.
10. Then stir in the broth ¼ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until absorbed. Keep the risotto at a simmer throughout. Continue simmering, stirring, and adding broth, letting each addition be absorbed before adding next, until about half of broth has been added.
11. Stir in diced and chopped squash, honey, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and continue simmering and adding broth in same manner until rice is tender and creamy-looking but still slightly al dente, about 20-25 minutes.
12. Stir in the grated Parmigiano and combine.
13. Spoon risotto into serving bowls and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and a few curls of Parmigiano using a vegetable peeler.

This is a family of winter squash, including jack be little pumpkins, delicata and sweet dumplings, carnival, kuri, baby bear pumpkins, butternut, spaghetti squash and a cinderella pumpkin.
Photo by Julia Wiley of Mariquita Farm

Just in case you're wondering: no, you can't recycle last night's only-slightly-scorched jack o' lantern into this morning's pumpkin muffins. Sorry, greenies, into the compost bin it goes.

Why? Well, for starters, it wouldn't taste very good. Pumpkins bred to be big, beautiful, and able to sit on the porch without rotting for weeks on end are not going to be yummy, too. There are only so many characteristics that you can highlight on a gene string, and as far as it goes with pumpkins, you can find a fabulously chunky orange canvas, or you can have one that's dainty and edible. But not both. If it's big enough to carve a vampire face on, it's probably also going to be bland, stringy, and watery. Roast the seeds, yes, but put the rest to rest in your big green bin.

The baker's secret, however, is that even those cute little pumpkins, often sold under the names Sugar Pie or Sugar Pumpkin, are just not all that delicious. Compared to that supermarket workhorse, the beige-skinned butternut, even the cutest pumpkin is all bark, no bite. The butternut is dense and rich-fleshed, wonderful roasted and pureed into soups with apple and sage or a little curry powder and coconut milk. Mashed butternut is what I use for homemade pumpkin pies, pumpkin bread, and pumpkin cookies, and the only difference is how much better it tastes than actual pumpkin.

All these hard-shelled winter squashes are in the same family of cucurbits, anyway, under the same umbrella that shelters melons, cucumbers, summer squash and zucchini. Winter squash get their name not from their growing season (they need 100+ days of warm weather, ripening just at the tail end of summer and then curing on the vines for a few more weeks into early fall) but from their usefulness as a winter staple. Once cured--that is, left in the field or in a cool, airy place for a few weeks--their skin hardens, their curvy stem (a peduncle, for those botantically inclined) dries to almost wood-like firmness, and they can be stored in a cool, dry place with little loss of flavor or texture for months on end. Their only real enemies are warmth and moisture.

But good as butternuts are, there's no reason to stop there. Right now the markets are lavishly stocked with every size and crazy streaked-and-spotted shape of winter squash. There's the delicate delicata, ivory-skinned with green stripes and orange flecks over a pale yellow-peach flesh. You can slice it into narrow half-moons, massage lightly with olive oil and bake until tender. The thin skin is edible to all but the most fastidious. For those folks, cut the squash in half lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and strings, and fill with an autumnal bread or wild-rice stuffing. Bake until squash is fork-tender and filling has browned and crisped.

There are other variations on the delicata, like the dumpling squash, shaped like an oversized popover and perfect for stuffing.

The squarish, dark green buttercup squash is for those who like their squash dry and nutty, tasting like a cross between roasted chestnuts and baked sweet potato. In their Ladybug newsletters, Andy and Julia of Mariquita Farm have sung the praises of two big beige squash, the plump, round-cheeked Long Island cheese pumpkin and the deeply grooved, deep-orange fleshed Musquee de Provence squash, also called the Fairytale pumpkin for its Cinderella-coach shape.

Although, if I were a mouse looking for glamor, I'd hitch myself to a Rouge Vif d'Etampes pumpkin and wait for the fairy godmother to descend. This is the most glamorous squash of all, vivid orange-red, huge and elegantly grooved. If you've ever wanted to make a pumpkin soup and serve it in a pumpkin, this is the one you want. Not surprisingly, given its shape and its tongue-twisting French name, it's often called the Cinderella pumpkin. Carved out, it also makes a striking ice bucket for an autumn brunch.

But my favorite remains a tricky-to-find recent hybrid, the Sunshine kabocha. Bright orange skinned, it's easy to confuse with the Red Kuri, but once tasted, it can't be mistaken for anything but its amazingly delectable self. Oh, all right, I'll admit it: roasted, it tastes like chicken. Or, even better, like the incredibly savory drippings left at the bottom of the pan after you roast a chicken. Trust me: if you think you don't like squash because you've only ever eaten those bland and pasty little baked acorn squash, you owe it your tastebuds to seek out--or grow--a Sunshine kabocha. A plain old kabocha is pretty good, too, sweet and nutty, but the Sunshine variety is just nubbly orange heaven.

Once you've done something virtuously savory with your roasted squash--soup, a suave puree--then it's time for a few treats. Squash, like applesauce, adds moisture without fat to baked goods, and it seems everyone turns out a loaf or two of low-fat pumpkin bread this time of year.

Then again, we are moving into hibernation weather and a holiday mood. At least once this month, follow the lead of Alameda home baker Steven Mounce and get every Peter Pumpkin Eater at your table moaning with pleasure over this lush pumpkin bread pudding. Trust Mounce: a man with the word "homemade" tattooed on his knuckles knows what you want.

Pumpkin Bread Pudding
Serves 6-8
Did you know that canned pumpkin is rarely actual pumpkin, but rather butternut or other winter squash? Whatever you call it, plain canned pumpkin is always a handy staple, since it can be used in both sweet and savory dishes. Of course, you can also roast and mash your own for this gorgeously warming centerpiece for brunch or dessert.

Ingredients:
4 eggs
2 cups half and half
15 oz can pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling) , or 1 3/4 cups roasted, mashed butternut or kabocha squash
¾ cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons dark molasses
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1 large loaf of French bread, cut into 2" cubes
½ cup walnuts, roughly chopped
¼ cup raisins or dried cranberries
3 tablespoons butter, softened
3 tablespoons brown sugar

Preparation:
1. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, half and half, pumpkin, brown sugar, molasses, salt, and spices together. Add bread cubes to bowl in batches, stirring well between each batch. Add only enough bread to soak up liquid mixture; you may not need all the bread. Let mixture rest for 15 minutes.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Fill a kettle or pitcher with hot water, and set aside. Lightly grease an 8"x8" glass baking dish. Stir nuts and raisins into bread mixture. Spoon mixtures loosely into baking dish. Do not pack bread mixture into dish. Mound lightly above edge of the dish if necessary.

3. Place glass baking dish into a 13"x9" baking pan. Place both dishes on the center rack of the oven. Pour hot water into larger baking pan to come up halfway on the glass pan. Bake for 30 minutes, until top is golden brown and center is set. While bread pudding is baking, stir together butter and 3 tablespoons brown sugar, and set aside.

4. When pudding is baked, remove glass pan from oven and set on a rack. (Wait to remove water-filled pan until oven has cooled.) Dot with brown sugar mixture, which will melt into a gooey caramel sauce, mmm. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Got a fabulous pumpkin recipe to share? Enter Omnivore Books' pumpkin cooking contest. Everything from soup to muffins considered, as long as the main ingredient is pumpkin. Sat. Nov. 21, 4-5pm.

My brother planted way too much butternut squash this year. He has so much butternut squash that he doesn't know what to do with all of it. He has so much butternut squash that he laid down the law that it must play a starring role in our annual over-the-top, overly decadent, planned-for-months-in-advance, Christmas feast.

So, being the loving and caring sister that I am, I've been on a quest for lip-smacking, mouth-watering, not-your-run-of-the-mill recipes that contain butternut squash. Beyond the obvious (yet delicious) array of butternut squash soups and pureed or roasted butternut side dishes, I've discovered butternut gnocchi, a world of curries containing the squash (particularly Thai red beef curry or green pork curry, and an amazing Indian curry with chickpeas), roasted squash salads both warm and cold, and an array of pasta dishes. One of my favorite pasta discoveries was a lasagna recipe by Jamie Oliver, which in turn, inspired this recipe.

I have to say, this is one of the most luscious lasagnas that I’ve ever eaten. It made me swoon. I'd even say it's up there with the Most Amazing Decadent Mushroom Lasagna and the completely-from-scratch Lasagne Bolognese that my family makes annually for Christmas Eve. Hell, who knows, maybe this one will take center stage this year. If nothing else, it would most certainly make a great crowd pleaser for a holiday dinner party.

Oh, and thanks brother! For giving me a reason to try new and different things with a tried-and-true ingredient that might have been easily overlooked and one that was certainly stuck in a boring rut, at least in my cooking repertoire.

Roasted Butternut Lasagna

Ingredients:

For the meat sauce:
2 thick slices applewood-smoked bacon, finely diced
1 yellow onion, finely diced
2 carrots, peeled and finely diced
1 lb ground pork shoulder
1 lb ground beef
1/2 cup milk
1 28oz + 1 14 oz can crushed tomatoes (6 in 1)
About 10 cremini mushrooms, chopped
2 cups red wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dried oregano

For the roasted butternut:
1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup finely shredded Parmesan, plus more for sprinkling on top
1 cup crème fraiche
1 lb fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
6 sheets no-boil lasagna noodles

Preparation:

1. To make the meat sauce, in a large Dutch oven, sauté the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels. Add the onion, and sauté over medium-high heat until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the carrot and sauté just until tender. Add the pork and beef, reduce the heat to low and sauté the meat just until it loses it’s pink color. Season with plenty of salt and pepper, then stir in the milk. Simmer gently until most of the milk is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, red wine, and oregano. Partially cover the pot and simmer over very low heat for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until thickened and delicious.

2. Meanwhile, roast the squash. Preheat the oven to 400F. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the butternut with the coriander, pepper flakes, a drizzle of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Roast the squash, turning occasionally, until tender and browned, about 40 minutes. Chop the butternut squash into bite-sized pieces. (You might want to make double the recipe of the butternut squash, this is SO amazingly good.)

3. To put the lasagna together, decrease the oven temperature to 375F. In a small bowl stir together the Parmesan and crème fraiche. Lightly oil a square baking pan (about 10x10x3 inches). Spread a big spoonful of meat sauce over the bottom of the pan. Put a layer of lasagna noodles (2), then a layer of meat sauce, half of the butternut squash, 1/3 of the crème fraiche, 1/3 of the mozzarella, a thin layer of meat sauce, and then another layer of lasagna noodles. Repeat: a layer of meat sauce, the remaining butternut squash, 1/2 of the remaining crème fraiche, 1/2 of the remaining mozzarella, a thin layer of meat sauce, and then a final layer of lasagna noodles. Top with a thin layer of meat sauce, the remaining crème fraiche, and the remaining mozzarella. Sprinkle with extra Parmesan and put in the oven.

4. Bake until bubbly and the pasta is tender, about 45 minutes. If the cheese starts to brown too quickly, cover with foil. If the lasagna bubbles over, put a baking sheet underneath. Let the lasagna sit for at least 10 minutes before serving. Dig in!