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Posts Tagged ‘breakfast’


Check, Please! Bay Area: Café Aquarius, Tanguito, VEGA

Thursday, October 20th, 2011

Guests and host Leslie Sbrocco taping episode 611 of Check, Please! Bay Area at KQED
Guests and host Leslie Sbrocco taping episode 611 of Check, Please! Bay Area at KQED. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend

Check, Please! Bay Area Season 6: episode 11 airs Thursday October 20 at 7:30pm on KQED TV 9. View other airtimes and channels.

You can watch individual restaurant segments as well as view the entire episode online. The website also provides restaurant information not specified on the show, written reviews from the guests and restaurant recipes. If you have opinions on the restaurants featured please feel free to share your thoughts. This season, Leslie Sbrocco will be sharing wine tips with each episode.

The eleventh episode of the season features these restaurants: Café Aquarius (Emeryville), Tanguito Argentinean Grill & Empanadas (San Francisco) and VEGA (San Francisco).

Leslie Sbrocco: Wine Tips -- Pairing Dessert Wines

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Kitchen 388: A Morning Delight

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Kitchen 388

There is yet another new cafe that recently opened in the Grand/Lakeshore neighborhood of Oakland, and this one is not only worth a visit but a return trip, too. The first thing I heard about Joseph Dunbar's Kitchen 388 was that they were doing housemade pop-tarts, and since I do them for my business Marge, I had many friends writing me to go and check it out. Scope out the competition, so to speak. Then I heard they serve Four Barrel coffee, and I'm a big fan of Four Barrel and have a hard time finding it in the East Bay. Do note that they serve drip coffee and cafe au laits, but currently aren't doing espresso drinks. So if you have your heart set on a foamy latte, you'll have to keep traveling up the street.

coffee

Upon walking into Kitchen 388, you may feel like you're in your favorite college cafe. The interior is a little-bit-sterile with bright art on the walls. They've tried improving the ambiance by adding Strauss bottles filled with flowers and a nice bar for cream and sugar, but it still feels dated. But that's about where my criticism ends. The folks are warm and gracious and seem genuinely happy to be working there. The food is affordable and truly delicious. The menu isn't necessarily revolutionary or anything that you won't find at another great local cafe, but they're doing it really well.

breakfast at Kitchen 388

For breakfast, we ordered the Baked Eggs, Salmon Tartine, and the Banana Nutella Pop-Tart. I'm not quite sure where you can go in town and get a lovely breakfast for $5.95 -- a few bucks more for a coffee. This was a delightful surprise. The Baked Eggs were simple but tasty with a little basil on top and ripe summer tomatoes on the side. The Salmon Tartine was fantastic -- I'll be back for this. Really great bread, a generous portion of salmon, a dollop of cream cheese, juicy tomatoes, onions and capers: hearty and delicious. And the pop-tarts that everyone's been talking about. What's the verdict?

They were good. I must say. The pastry is more soft than flaky but the amount of filling is perfect: they don't come off as too spare or too gloppy. I chatted with the pastry chef, Alicia Toyooka, and she explained that they're having a tough time keeping up with demand. She's currently doing three varieties: a strawberry/rhubarb, a pecan, and the banana nutella. Everything is housemade and seasonal, so when strawberries and rhubarb are out of season she'll start to look towards pears and apples for inspiration. Alicia noted that they don't have much in the way of large-scale bakery equipment at Kitchen 388 so she's literally been doing every batch of dough the old-fashioned way: no mixer, cutting the butter into the flour by hand each morning. I respect this. While her decision's born from necessity and lack of space/equipment, I choose to do my pie dough this way because I really do think you can tell a difference. And this is evident in Alicia's pastry, too.

While we didn't have lunch, they offer a nice selection of salads and sandwiches and other small sweets (slices of apple cake and cookies). They also sell housemade jams and pounds of Four Barrel coffee to take home. As far as what's in the cards next, it looks like extended hours and possibly some exciting evening pop-up dinners and other events. Kitchen 388 is currently open from 8-4 but they're revisiting this and want to get a feel for the neighborhood before they decide what they best move will be here. As for pop-up dinners, it sounds like this is a preliminary idea, but Oakland could use a little after-hours food buzz; bring it on, Kitchen 388. We're waiting.

Kitchen 388
388 Grand Avenue
Oakland, CA 94610
(510) 893-3005
Hours: 8 am-4 pm Tuesdays-Sundays (closed Mondays)
Like them on Facebook
Follow them on Twitter

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Spinach Cheddar Pancakes with Tomato-Orange Cream Sauce

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011

Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes with Sundried Tomato Cream
Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes with Sundried Tomato Cream

A great take on a breakfast favorite, these savory pancakes are thick, fluffy, and chock full of spinach (Note to parents: these are a most delicious way to sneak a healthy dose of veggies into your kid's diet). Skip the maple syrup and instead, drizzle this stack with a tangy tomato cream sauce spiked with orange zest.

The inspiration behind these savory pancakes comes from a wonderful dish I had at a sunny little spot called Lady Marmalade in Toronto. Their brunch menu featured a Cheddar Spinach Waffle drizzled with a Tomato-Orange cream sauce. I loved the combination of flavors and thought I'd give it a try at home.

Ingredients for Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes
Ingredients for Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes

I started out by grating some extra sharp cheddar and prepping the chopped spinach (squeezing out as much water as possible). The large amount of spinach in this recipe makes for a pretty hearty pancake, so if you prefer a lighter version, feel free to cut down on the greens.

Pancake Batter
Pancake Batter

Next, a thick batter is formed by combining the cheese and spinach with a beaten egg, melted butter, milk, all purpose flour, salt, and baking powder. The hefty amount of baking powder mixed in with the flour mimics self-rising flour so your pancakes puff up nice and fluffy. Since the batter is pretty dense at this point, I employed an old trick for light and airy pancakes: whipped egg whites. Fold them into the batter and you are good to go.

Sundried Tomatoes and Orange Zest
Sundried Tomatoes and Orange Zest

The sauce I'm modeling this after was like a roasted tomato bisque. It was creamy and comforting, and was the perfect complement to the cheddar cheese in the dish. To save time on roasting my tomatoes, I decided to use just regular canned whole-peeled tomatoes, and threw in a handful of sundried tomatoes to intensify the flavor. I loved the surprising zip of orange zest in the original sauce and was sure to include it in my remake. A few glugs of cream, and into the food processor it all went. As the mixture blended together, I noticed that the cream was looking a little chunky, but after I heated it up in a saucepan, it all smoothed out.

Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes with Sundried Tomato Cream

If you're a savory rather than sweet person, you'll appreciate this rendition of pancakes that don't involve chocolate or fruit (although, come to think of it, chocolate chip banana pancakes do sound darn tasty). I digress. The sweet pancakes will have to wait for another day. In the meantime, breakfast for dinner, anyone?

Recipe: Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes with Sundried Tomato Cream

Summary: Inspired by brunch at Lady Marmalade in Toronto, these savory pancakes are thick, fluffy, and full of spinach and cheese. With a zesty tomato-orange cream sauce poured on top, this is not your average stack of pancakes.

Spinach-Cheddar Pancakes with Sundried Tomato Cream

Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 20 min
Total time: 35 min
Yield: 4-6 servings

Ingredients

  • 10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 cup grated sharp cheddar
  • 1 large egg, beaten
  • 2 egg whites
  • 2/3 cup low-fat milk
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Olive oil for frying
  • Sundried Tomato Cream Sauce

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 F.
  2. Squeeze all water from the defrosted spinach. Melt the butter in the microwave, about 30 seconds.
  3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the spinach, melted butter, grated cheese, the beaten egg, milk, flour, baking powder, and salt. Mix well, forming a thick batter.
  4. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites in a separate bowl until they form soft peaks. Fold it into the batter.
  5. Place a frying pan over medium high heat and add enough oil to coat the surface. Ladle the batter into the hot pan, spreading the batter out. Give yourself enough room in the pan to flip the pancakes.
  6. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until the pancakes are golden on the bottom. They will puff up and small air bubbles will form on the surface when they're ready to be flipped. Flip the pancakes over and cook for about another 2 minutes until the other side is golden.
  7. Transfer to a foil-lined baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm while you finish the remaining batches. Serve with the Tomato Cream Sauce spooned on top.

*****************

Recipe: Sundried Tomato Cream Sauce

Prep time: 3 min
Cook time: 2 min
Total time: 5 min
Yield: 1 cup

Ingredients

  • 5 sundried tomatoes packed in oil
  • 2 whole peeled tomatoes
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon orange zest

Instructions

  1. Blend together all the ingredients using food processor or blender. (The cream may look a little chunky, it's ok).
  2. Transfer to a saucepan and warm through over low-to-moderate heat. If you had chunky-ish cream before, it should melt smoothly, leaving you with a creamy smooth sauce.

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Breakfast at Show Dogs, with Chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark

Friday, January 28th, 2011

John Clark and Gayle Pirie. Photo: John A. Benson Photography
John Clark and Gayle Pirie. Photo: John A. Benson Photography

This is the first week of weekday breakfast offerings at Show Dogs, the Civic Center sausage emporium serving up meaty numbers of quality from Golden Gate Meats, 4505 Meats, Fatted Calf, and Let's Be Frank. A breakfast at Show Dogs includes dishes and drinks priced from $4 to $12.95, and the food is from one of San Francisco's best cooking couples, Gayle Pirie and John Clark. The couple resides in the East Bay and together have over two and a half decades of cooking experience including working as co-chefs at Zuni Café and being co-owners and chefs at Foreign Cinema. Their new breakfast menu—with Chef de Cuisine Seth Carter--is inspired by brunch at their ever-popular Foreign Cinema, and from their book, Country Egg, City Egg.

Chef Pirie said via phone interview that when creating Show Dogs, she and Clark tried to “think of the history of Market Street and create a fine food emporium. [We wanted to] make it inclusive of all three meals, and had dinner, lunch and happy hour already.” Offering breakfast service at Show Dogs is “harkening back to the turn of the century, when you had food all day.” Brunch will launch on weekends soon -- view the full menu at showdogssf.com.

Croque Madame. Photo by Mary Ladd
Croque Madame. Photo by Mary Ladd

Show Dogs morning fare is sophisticated yet comfortable, with fun twists on the Croque Madame (with succulent pulled pork, Gruyere & béchamel), pancakes (corn cakes with molasses syrup and apricot preserves spiked with Serrano chiles), and Huevos Rancheros (white beans, bacon, cheddar and tomatillo salsa). Sausage fans can indulge with the Sunrise ShowDog plate of maple bacon on a soft Acme bun, scrambled egg, piperade, arugula and a side of celery root hashers. Chef Pirie said she is “real partial to sausage with eggs,” making the Sunrise ShowDog plate her top pick.

The house coffee is from Four Barrel. Belly up to an eye opener with a Lagunitas Espresso Stout, served warm. Other adult beverages include: Bloody Marys, Mimosas, or Bloody Beer. Fire-eaters can up the heat level on their food with hot sauce, provided on each table. Music includes Brazilian sambas and French jazz. The space is sun-filled and tidy, with wide window views of the unfolding morning activity.

Sunrise ShowDog. Photo by Mary Ladd
Sunrise ShowDog. Photo by Mary Ladd

SHOWDOGS SUNRISE SHOWDOG
Chef/Owners Gayle Pirie and John Clark
Chef de Cuisine Seth Carter

Ingredients:
Note: made with as many organic ingredients as possible

2 T diced red pepper
1 T diced onion
4-5 leaves of arugula
2 T sharp cheddar
1 Egg, scrambled
1 T Butter
splash of sherry vinegar
pinch of cayenne
salt & pepper to taste
1 hot dog bun
1 pork breakfast sausage

Method:

1. Cook sausage in a fry pan or preferably, on a grill until browned on both sides and cooked through.
2. While sausage is cooking, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small fry pan.
3. When butter is melted, sautee peppers and onions in butter until cooked through.
4. Add a splash of sherry vinegar and cook for another minute or so, then add a pinch of cayenne, salt and pepper.
5. Add the eggs, arugula and cheddar.
6. Continue to mix the scramble egg mixture until egg is mostly cooked but still a touch wet. (egg will continue to cook for a few seconds)
7. Place the cooked sausage in the hot dog bun and top with the scrambled egg mix.
8. Serve with your favorite hash browns or country potatoes.
*For a bit more texture, toast the hot dog bun in a 350 degree oven for 3-4 minutes to crisp the outside.

Show Dogs, Fine Sausage logo
Show Dogs, Fine Sausages
Location: Map
1020 Market Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
415.558.9560
Hours: Mon-Thurs: 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat: 11am-12am, Sunday: 12pm-6pm

Twitter: @ShowdogsSF
Facebook: Showdogs
Foursquare: Show Dogs

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Alternative Grains: Millet and Quinoa Recipes

Tuesday, January 25th, 2011

Curried Quinoa Salad
Curried Quinoa Salad

In a world where rice and wheat reign supreme, sometimes you want something more. Maybe you have a food allergy, maybe you have special health needs that your regular diet just isn't meeting, or maybe you just wanting more exciting than the status quo. Regardless of your reasons for upgrading your grain options, you've got an entire rainbow of whole grains to choose from besides rice and wheat.

Take, for example, the humble millet. Often thought of as only bird seed, millet is actually very much edible by humans. Mentioned in the Bible, people have been eating millet for many thousands of years in countries such as China, India, and Africa. What's so great about millet? Well, first of all, it's not acid-forming and is known for being easy to digest, so those who deal with any number of digestive ailments can usually enjoy millet without aggravating their GI. Taste-wise, Millet is mildly sweet with a nutty flavor and contains many beneficial nutrients, such as protein, fiber, B-vitamins, iron, magnesium, potassium, and more.

Another alternative grain you might consider is quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah). Another old-world grain, quinoa has also been cultivated for thousands of years in South America. The Inca revered quinoa as a very important part of their culture, and used it to make breads, cereals, and other dishes. Not technically a grain, quinoa is actually a grass seed, much like buckwheat.

Quinoa has a nutty, hearty flavor that makes it ideal for both savory dishes and sweet breakfast recipes. It is high in protein, calcium, iron, vitamin B, and vitamin E. The protein in quinoa a "complete protein" due to the presence of all eight essential amino acids, something that's not often seen in cereals or grains. Note: Before being eaten, quinoa grains must be rinsed to remove its bitter coating, called saponin. When rinsing quinoa, be sure to keep the water flowing until there are so soap-like suds when you agitate the seeds with your hands. Once the water runs clear, the saponin is gone.

Where can you buy millet and quinoa? You'll be happy to hear that both grains are readily available at health food stores, and if you like, you can even buy them online. While you can buy boxed millet and quinoa, you'll usually find them cheaper by shopping in the bulk section of your local natural foods store.

You can buy millet and quinoa in several different forms, as well:

To get you started, here are a few recipes for these awesome grains. Once you give them a try, they might just become your new favorite carb!


Nutty Millet Porridge

Serves 2

Ingredients:

1 cup raw millet
5 cups water
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
4 teaspoons butter
6 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup fresh blueberries or dried cranberries

Directions:
1. Heat a medium pot over medium heat. Add millet, stirring grains until they become fragrant. Add water and salt, and bring to a boil.

2. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until millet if soft like oatmeal. Add butter and honey, stirring well. Serve hot, topped with fruit.


Curried Quinoa Salad

Serves 6 as a side or 4 for lunch

Ingredients:
1/4 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons yellow curry powder
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/3 cups uncooked quinoa
4 cups water
2 mangoes, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch chunks
1 fresh serrano chile, seeded and minced
1/4 cup fresh mint, chopped
1/2 cup salted roasted cashews or peanuts, chopped

Preparation:
1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together yogurt, lime juice, curry powder, ginger, salt, and pepper. Slowly drizzle in oil, whisking until fully combined.

2. Rinse quinoa in a bowl for 5 minutes, using fingers to agitate grains and the water runs through it. Agitating while rinsing will help remove the bitter saponin.

3. In a large pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil with a few pinches of salt. Add quinoa to boiling water and cook for 15 minutes, until grains are almost completely cooked through but still just a little crunchy. Strain and rinse with cold water. Let sit to drain for 15 minutes.

4. Mix quinoa with curried yogurt and stir well. Stir in mango, bell pepper, Serrano chili, mint, and nuts. Serve at room temperature.


If you like these grain recipes, check out these other healthy, protein-rich posts:

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Low-fat Steel-Cut Oat Muffins with Cherry Jam Inside

Thursday, January 20th, 2011

Cherry Jam Steel-Cut Oat muffins

With the December holidays behind me, I'm trying to be a little more heart healthy. This doesn't mean I'm dieting -- as I'm a miserable failure at all diets. Tell me I can't eat butter and I'll day dream incessantly about buttered toast. No, in my world, being healthier means trying to eat more whole grains and vegetables, which usually isn't a problem as I love both.

So to start off my new year, I vowed to make and eat more steel-cut oats. Steel-cut oats are the actual oat grain buds (or groats) that have been cut into two or three pieces by steel blades. Unlike their flat rolled oat cousins, they plump up when you cook them, much like rice or wheat berries. And although they can take 30-40 minutes to cook, the earthy nutty flavors and satisfying chewy texture are worth the wait. But waiting a half hour or more for your breakfast to cook can cramp your weekday morning routine. This is why I try to make a large batch of steel-cut oats on the weekend. You can also purchase precooked steel-cut oats at Trader Joe's (in the freezer section).

So what do you do with the oats once they're cooked? Eating them with brown sugar or honey plus a handful of nuts and/or dried fruit is a great and simple breakfast. If you're avoiding sugar, just use cooked apples or pears, which add deep fruity undertones. But if you want something really special, try baking with your precooked steel-cut oats. For years I've made Nut and Fruit Oatcakes and Strawberry Oat Squares. This week, however, I tried something slightly different and loved it.

In the mood for something a little lighter and airier, I decided to make steel-cut oat muffins. Much like my oatcakes and oat squares, I started with a base of steel-cut oats, flour and butter. Yet unlike those baked treats, I used a little less butter and instead added in some buttermilk (which is naturally lowfat) for added tangy flavor and to moisten things up a bit. For a burst of sweetness, I nestled some cherry jam into each muffin (being sure to include at least one cherry in each). Hot out of the oven, the muffins smelled and tasted a bit like cherry pie.

So if you're looking for a heart-healthy breakfast that tastes like an indulgence, or simply another way to use your leftover steel cut oats, try some jammy oat muffins. Served warm, they are the ultimate morning treat.

Note: these muffins taste best when warm, so be sure to either eat them all soon after baking, or just reheat in the microwave the next day.

Low-fat Steel-Cut Oat Muffins with Cherry Jam Inside

Makes: 1 dozen muffins

Ingredients:

1 cup flour
½ cup bran or oat flour
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 cup cooked steel cut oats
1 egg
¼ cup brown or regular sugar
4 Tbsp cold butter cut into small pieces
½ tsp salt
1/2 cup buttermilk
½ cup cherry jam (or another fruit preserve)
½ cup dried cherries (optional)
¼ cup slivered or chopped almonds (optional)

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large bowl, mix flour, bran or oat flour, cinnamon, sugar and salt.

3. Cut in your butter (you can do this in a food processor, with a pastry cutter, or just squeeze the butter between your fingers and into the flour until you have something resembling small floury butter pebbles).

4. Mix in your steel-cut oat (do not do this in the food processor) with either a wooden spoon or using your fingers, mixing until fully incorporated.

5. In a separate bowl, beat your egg into your buttermilk and then add to the flour and oat mixture, stirring until combined. If adding dried cherries and nuts, mix in now.

6. In a prepared muffin pan (either sprayed with oil or with muffin liners inserted) divide your batter evenly for 12 muffins.

7. Using a teaspoon, indent a hole into the middle of each muffin and then spoon in about 1 tsp of jam plus at least one or two cherries.

8. Set in the oven and bake for 20 minutes or until you can insert a toothpick and it comes out clean.

9. Serve warm and enjoy.

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Trouble-Free Christmas Breakfast Strata

Thursday, December 23rd, 2010

holiday strata

The holidays are such a busy time that breakfast can seem either too hectic to deal with or like an afterthought. In the hopes of creating a memorable morning meal you could easily be tempted to spend your morning chopping and stirring instead of enjoying your family. Or maybe the allure of that new Wii game is too strong, so you end up blowing off your planned meal and making scrambled eggs and toast instead. So is there a happy medium? After years of plotting and planning my family's morning Christmas feasts, and buying specialty ingredients for them, I think I've found one.

Egg strata is my new standard quick and painless meal for a decadently delicious holiday breakfast. After first making this dish a few years ago, I've made holiday strata a few other times with great results. I love that I can make this dish the night before, so the only thing I have to do on Christmas morning is stick it in the oven. I've also taken to using ingredients I already have. After all, why buy bacon when I have smoked sausage or holiday ham in the fridge? And do I really need grated smoked cheddar if I already have Gouda or Humboldt Fog from appetizers the night before? This means I don't have to shop and plan for yet another holiday meal.

But the best part is that this strata is everything a holiday breakfast should be: mixed with whole milk or half and half, the eggs turn out creamy and pillowy, while the addition of those holiday cheeses plus a little cream cheese or crème fraiche adds a gorgeous richness, sort of like a beautiful bow on an already lovely present.

There is no strict recipe for holiday strata. The rule is to simply use whatever your refrigerator contains that sounds good. So if you have Gouda and smoked sausage, use it. Or if the roasted artichoke hearts from the evening before are available, cut them up and toss them in with some chunks of Brie. Anything is fine as long as you like it.

Here are some general directions for making a holiday strata. I hope your breakfast, and day, are as stress-free as this dish.

Trouble-Free Holiday Breakfast Strata

The following is a set of guidelines for making your own holiday breakfast. The measurements are for individual servings, so just multiply by the number of people you’re serving. You can also bake this dish in one big casserole or baking dish, or split each serving up in separate dishes (which is what I like to do).

Ingredients:

1/2 - 3/4 cup chopped day old bread, croissants, bagels, or appetizer toasts
2 eggs
1/2 cup whole milk or half and half
1/4 cup of your favorite on-hand ingredients (such as cooked spinach and shallots; sausage and onions; tomatoes and bacon; lump crab meat ; holiday ham; chanterelles; or whatever sounds good)
1/3 cup cheese (use leftover appetizer cheese from a holiday party; Cotswold is one of my favorites, but Brie or Gouda are also great. If you don’t have any, use some cheddar or jack mixed with cream cheese)
1/8 cup crème fraiche or ricotta cheese (if you have some on hand)
1 Tbsp chopped herbs
Top with fresh or dried bread crumbs
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

1. Butter or oil your baking dishes.
2. Add in the chopped bread
3. Top with your favorite strata ingredients, cheese and herbs
4. In a separate bowl, beat eggs, milk or half and half, and salt and pepper
5. Pour egg mixture into baking dish. Let sit overnight, covered, in the refrigerator or for at least ten minutes before baking.
6. The next morning, preheat oven to 350 degrees while you unwrap presents.
7. Before popping the stratas in the oven, top each with bread crumbs
8. Bake for 20 minutes or until cooked through.

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An Excuse to Eat Cake for Breakfast

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

Blueberry Breakfast Buckle
Blueberry Breakfast Buckle in Ball Jars

I'm a sucker for old-fashioned rustic desserts like buckles, slumps, and cobblers. If buckle isn't part of your daily vocabulary, let's change that right now. Essentially a buckle is a light cake with fruit baked into it and scattered on the top. It earned its name because the fruit on top makes the dessert itself buckle ever so slightly. It's like a cross between a messy, fruity, light coffeecake and a more traditional cake. I started making blueberry buckle at the beginning of the summer and decided that it'd be perfect for breakfast. It's kind of like a blueberry muffin on steroids, so it seemed logical that in addition to making it for dessert, why wouldn't folks eat it for breakfast as well? Instead of serving it with whipped cream, why not dollop a little yogurt on the top?

ingredients for breakfast buckle
Laying out the Ingredients for Breakfast Buckle

I first became obsessed with buckles and slumps when I came across Julie Richardson and Cory Schreiber's book, Rustic Fruit Desserts. In it, they detail numerous recipes for great old-school desserts focusing on the seasons and really paying attention to the traits of different fruits and how they'll bake up in a variety of situations. They discuss slumps, pandowdy's, betty's, crisps, and teacakes. If you've ever had an inkling to recreate some of the great old-fashioned desserts your grandparents probably made, get this book. So this is where I found the inspiration for the buckle recipe. The one in Richardson and Schreiber's book is quite different--it's for a Tayberry Oat Buckle and uses more sugar and butter and the ever-elusive tayberry. I decided to adapt the recipe to use the more common blueberry and added a bit of lemon zest and less butter and sugar. The result is perfectly breakfast-worthy--I've literally been looking forward to waking up early and grabbing a slice (or a jar) with my coffee lately. And my coworkers are happy. Very, very happy.

jars of breakfast buckle
Buckles in Jars: Ready for the oven!

Now, the recipe below works beautifully in a 9" square pan as well. That way, you can slice it more traditionally. No problem. But I was drawn to the Ball Jar idea because I was asked to bring a little something to a brunch last weekend--something mini like scones to share. I was feeling like everyone had had a mini scone before, but that'd it'd be fun to introduce folks to the Breakfast Buckle. And I've been experimenting with baking in jars, so the two ideas came together naturally. If you like the idea of baking the buckle in the ball jars, let me give you a bit of advice that I learned after my first go-around: Only fill the jars 3/4 of the way full (at most)--the batter rises and you'll have a gooey mess if you don't. Wipe off the edges of your jar to prevent the rim of cooked cake that you'll (unfortunately) see in my photos below. They'd be prettier without it! I love the way you can see the berries strewn throughout. They'd also be great with some chopped pecans or walnuts on top. Experiment with any kind of fruit or nuts that you like. I guarantee, brighter mornings are in your future. Trust me on this one.

Blueberry Breakfast Buckle
Adapted From: Rustic Fruit Desserts

Makes: 10-12 servings

Ingredients:
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter at room temperature, for pan
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup oat flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 tsp. fresh lemon zest
1 cup buttermilk
1 dry pint blueberries (2 1/2 cups or 9 oz), fresh or frozen
1/4 cup rolled oats
2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar (or brown sugar) for topping

Preparation:
1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Lightly butter the insides of 10 half-pint glass jars or a 9-inch square baking pan.
2. Sift together the flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium-sized bowl.
3. Cream the butter and sugar together on medium speed with a handheld mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Beat until light and fluffy: about 2-3 minutes.
4. Add the eggs one at a time, beating inbetween each addition to combine. Make sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl after each addition to ensure all of the ingredients are being evenly combined. Mix in the vanilla and the lemon zest.
5. Next, stir in the flour mixture in three additions alternating with the buttermilk in two additions. Essentially, you want to begin and end with the dry ingredients and scrape down the bowl a few times as you go.
6. Using a spatula, gently fold in 3/4 of the blueberries and pour the batter into the prepared jars, being cautious to only fill them 1/2-3/4 of the way full--the batter will rise! Wipe off the rims with a dry paper towel. Distribute the remaining blueberries over the tops of each buckle and sprinkle the oats and turbinado sugar over the top. If you're using a 9-inch pan instead, pour the batter out into the pan, sprinkle with remaining blueberries and oats and sugar.

Baking Instructions:

For 1 pint ball jars: Bake for 30-35 minutes but check frequently. I found this time varies greatly depending on exactly how much you fill your jars. So once the top looks a bit golden, pull them out--they're probably done.
For 9-inch pan: Bake for 45-50 minutes or until the top is lightly golden and firm to the touch.

To serve, spoon a dollop of yogurt over the buckle and drizzle a little agave or honey on top if you’d like. Buckle will be good for 2 days if stored in plastic wrap (or with lids on jars) at room temperature.

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Baking with Olive Oil: Granola and Beyond

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

olive oil granola
Olive Oil Granola with Cherries and Pecans

I recently made this granola on my own blog, so naturally I was hesitant to write about it here. But you know what? Every time I crack open my jar of granola in the morning, I feel like singing from the rooftops. And I've made this recipe two additional times since writing about it, and have discovered a few tweaks and changes I'm excited to share with you. It's now utterly perfect.

Now, do you all remember the craze last fall when everyone was talking about the New York Times' Olive Oil Granola recipe? It seemed like food bloggers and food writers couldn't get enough. I began seeing it slowly pop up in little area cafes and my friend's mom made me a batch after a particularly hard week at work. I was hooked. But I never made the stuff on my own because I've always had a recipe I stick by. You know your old standards that you just can't cheat on? Yeah, that's my granola. The one I started making while living in Boulder, CO that uses orange juice for sweetener. Kind of a cliche (if you've ever visited Boulder, CO).

Then lately, I've noticed this resurgence of recipes calling for olive oil instead of butter or more traditional vegetable oil. It's obviously cool health-wise, but it also lends a very distinct flavor to baked goods that you just can't achieve another way. If you're making brownies or cakes with a distinct flavor, it doesn't really matter what type of olive oil you're using. In my humble opinion, it makes little sense to use your good stuff. However, for mildly flavored cakes or delicate cookies, I'd use a extra-light cold pressed olive oil--it's really perfectly suited for baking because it's relatively free of strong olive-oil aroma or flavor.

Now for some conversions so you can try experimenting with your favorite recipes at home. A few months ago, I visited We Olive in the Marina. They gave out a cool conversion chart to help clarify how to experiment with the new baking method. After much googling and light research, I realized there are differing opinions on these substitutions--like anything, experts like to weigh in with their tweaks and theories. But I've used the below conversion in my own baking numerous times and it seems to be the most popular out there. Like anything, experiment and find out what works for you.

granola ingredients
Laying out Ingredients for Olive Oil Granola

Butter/Margarine --> Olive Oil
1 tsp. ----> 3/4 tsp.
1 tbsp. ----> 2 1/4 tsp.
1/4 cup ----> 3 Tbsp.
1/3 cup ----> 1/4 cup
1/2 cup ----> 1/4 cup + 2 Tbsp.
2/3 cup ----> 1/2 cup
3/4 cup ----> 1/2 cup + 1 Tbsp.
1 cup ----> 3/4 cup

So today I'm sharing with you my tested and tweaked recipe for the best granola you'll taste, and giving you a few other links for olive oil baking inspiration.

mixing granola

Olive Oil Granola with Cherries and Pecans
I like baking granola in a convection oven if you have access to one--makes for very even cooking and no little burnt bits around the edges. So for this recipe, I gave both conventional oven and convection oven cooking times. Feel free to play around with other dried fruits or nuts if you'd like. This recipe is forgiving that way.

Ingredients:
3 cups rolled old-fashioned oats (not instant)
1 cup raw pecan halves
3/4 cup sliced, raw almonds
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds
1/2 cup sweetened coconut
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/2 cup dried cherries
3/4 cup maple syrup
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cardamom

Method:
1. Preheat the convection oven to 275 or the standard oven to 300 F.
2. With the exception of the cherries, mix all the ingredients together in a big bowl and spoon out onto a large, rimmed baking sheet.
3. Bake:
Bake Times:
–Convection Oven: 35-40 minutes, stir every fifteen minutes.
–Standard Oven: 45 minutes, stir every ten minutes so granola doesn’t stick to the sides of the pan and burn.
4. Granola will be done when it’s golden brown and well toasted. Remove from the oven and stir in the dried cherries. Let cool completely. Serve with dollops of plain yogurt and fruit. Or whatever floats your boat.

Makes: 8-9 cups

Awesome Olive Oil Recipe Links
Olive Oil Ice Cream from The Kitchn (not technically baking...but so, so good)
Olive Oil Cookies from The New York Times
Olive Oil Brownies from Spoonful
Spelt Olive Oil Cake with Chocolate Chunks from Blue Ridge Baker
Apricot, Olive Oil, and Cornmeal Upside Down Cake from the L.A. Times

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Breakfast in Lake Tahoe

Monday, July 12th, 2010

Rosie's
Rosie's Cafe, a Tahoe City institution

Lake Tahoe is, for many a Bay Area resident, a beloved vacation spot. A mere few hours in the car and you trade the traffic (kind of) and gridlock of day to day life for clean air, endless trees, the sound of boat motors in the distance, and an inviting (albeit rather cold) crystal blue lake. My family's been coming up to Lake Tahoe ever since I was three years old. We have a modest cabin on the North Shore where, growing up, my sisters and I and made Log Cabin Ice Cream, Kings Beach, the Mini Golf Course and 7-11 (best slurpee in town) our home throughout the summer months. Today, my sisters and I are grown adults and rarely all get up there at the same time. The house has been renovated recently and is much less modest. And of course, our priorities have changed. No longer do we jump at the chance to go mini-golfing or score a cone of blue bubblegum ice cream. Nowadays, there is a lot of beach lounging, novel reading, hiking, and late breakfasts.

Last weekend, I drove up to the cabin to spend some time with my dad. We barbecued, took the boat out, did a lot of dock-sitting, and went to breakfast. As the years have passed, our favorite breakfast spots change and revolve like new gym shoes. But the current favorite (for the last few years now) is Rosie's in Tahoe City. I was actually first introduced to Rosie's by a few of my students when I was teaching college composition in--of all places--Boston. I'd assigned an essay where students were asked to write about the one place they felt truly at home. Two students wrote about Rosie's: a breakfast spot all the way across the country that their family had been going to since they were little. It turns out Rosie's was a mere fifteen minute drive from my family's cabin and I'd never even been. How could this be? I asked each student to elaborate: what was so great? What's your favorite thing to order? The resounding answers to the latter were the pancakes: the fluffiest they'd ever had. Hands down.

So next time I was up at the cabin, over a year later, I was training for a marathon. After a grueling 18-mile run, I came back starving and suggested we all head out for breakfast. Rosie's popped into my mind. And because I'd run for virtually three hours that morning, I ordered two breakfasts. I haven't looked back since.

My students were right. The pancakes basically rock. Rosie's specializes in Swedish Oatmeal Pancakes topped with applesauce, imported lingonberries and sour cream. They also do very traditional buttermilk pancakes. While you may be tempted to go the Swedish route (as was I), I'm here to advise you to go traditional this time around. I found the Swedish pancakes to be quite flat, a bit soggy, and rather flavorless. They're a little too gloppy for their own good. But the buttermilk pancakes are another tale altogether: they're uber-light and fluffy yet substantial enough to hold large pats of butter and long pours of syrup. If you're coming to Rosie's for the first time and you're a pancake person, this is your order.

Now, if you tend more towards the egg side of life, the Green Eggs and Ham is one of my favorites. It's a scramble with spinach, avocado, green onions and jack cheese served with a side of ham. Everything's in proportion, there's not too much cheese and the eggs are cooked perfectly (often my complaint with scrambles). The Eggs Benecado is another favorite: a benedict with an english muffin, sliced tomato, guacamole, and poached eggs.

Eggs Benecado
Eggs Benecado at Rosie's Cafe

I always order the Florentine sauce on the side; they can be a little heavy-handed here. And last, the Breakfast Burrito. I wasn't the one to order a breakfast burrito because, well, I usually hate them. I find that they're rarely hot all the way though and often the eggs can be a little runny. But my dad loves the Breakfast Burrito at Rosie's and he's made me an almost-convert. I'll admit it: it's good. Really good. There's really nothing that remarkable about the ingredients. We're talking eggs, beans, bacon, chives, and cheese. But it's thoughtfully put together and cooked perfectly. Those things are important when we're talking about a big jumble of breakfast ingredients.

And a review of Rosie's wouldn't be complete without a mention of the Chicken Fried Steak. Again, this has never been my first choice but my sister swears by it.

Chicken Fried Steak
Chicken Fried Steak at Rosie's Cafe

It's a stick-to-your-ribs breakfast and according to our neighbors on the lake, this is the locals spot for chicken fried steak. With traditional country gravy, fluffy eggs, and crispy hashbrowns--this has been a faithful hangover breakfast in my family in the case that the previous night got a little too raucous.

So, thanks to my students who wrote essays on Rosie's. Thanks to the owners who have maintained the likeable vintage decor (everything from antique bikes and ski equipment to elk horn chandeliers) since they purchased it in 1989, and thanks to the bad diner coffee and good dependable food--we return each year. It's come to signify mornings when all of us are, miraculously, together at the same table up at the lake.

Rosie's Cafe
571 North Lake Boulevard Map
Tahoe City, CA 96145
(530) 583-8504
Hours: Open daily, 7:30am-9pm (although the bar will stay open later if there are folks drinking)

Other Favorite Breakfast Spots Around the Lake
Maybe you've had one too many Rosie's pancakes. Maybe you're just passing through Truckee. Maybe you're looking for something new. If so, here are a few other suggestions of tried-and-true breakfast spots I frequent often when I'm up at the lake:

Tahoe House Bakery: Okay, so it's not technically a breakfast spot--this is definitely more of a bakery. But they do a mean, strong Americano and really lovely pastries. I always get a few raspberry pockets for later in the afternoon, a homemade granola bar for breakfast the next morning, and my morning treat of choice remains the Swiss chocolate croissant. They also have a nice selection of take-out picnic items.

The Old Post Office Cafe: A charming former post office converted into one heck of a busy breakfast spot. Really good coffee, probable waits on the weekends, great build-your-own scrambles and biscuits and gravy.

Fire Sign Cafe: It's been around since the 1970s and in the summer the wait can be pretty long, but it's worth it. I absolutely love their buckwheat pancakes and the salmon omelet. Order the coffeecake of the day and share it with your tablemates (the fresh blueberry is incredible).

Squeeze In: Ah, Truckee. Quaint Victorian houses, surprisingly good restaurants, fun antiques...and a really fine breakfast. Squeeze In is known for their omelets: last time I was there I believe they had 58 to choose from. This makes for a bit of indecision so have one of their strong Bloody Mary's to loosen up first.

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