How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves
Why Is This Fisherman Selling Threatened Bluefin Tuna For $2.99 A Pound?
Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna
Farming The Bluefin Tuna, Tiger Of The Ocean, Is Not Without A Price
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bluefin tuna for sale for $2.99 per pound at the fish market in San Diego. That shockingly low price does not reflect the deeply threatened state of the bluefin population.","publishDate":1434064557,"status":"inherit","parent":96845,"modified":1434065096,"caption":"Pacific bluefin tuna for sale for $2.99 per pound at the fish market in San Diego. That shockingly low price does not reflect the deeply threatened state of the bluefin population.","credit":"Clare Leschin-Hoar for NPR","description":"Pacific bluefin tuna for sale for $2.99 per pound at the fish market in San Diego. 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Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group.","publishDate":1420662408,"status":"inherit","parent":91895,"modified":1420664194,"caption":"The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto","credit":null,"description":"The IUCN \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/21860/0\">says\u003c/a> the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group.","imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg","width":1000,"height":667}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_85340":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_85340","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"85340","found":true},"title":"Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology.","publishDate":1406739249,"status":"inherit","parent":85339,"modified":1406739249,"caption":"Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology. 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Controversial Study Makes Waves","publishDate":1457542748,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Bluefin tuna have been severely depleted by fishermen, and the fish have become a globally recognized poster child for the impacts of overfishing. Many chefs refuse to serve its rich, buttery flesh; many retailers no longer carry it; and consumers have become increasingly aware of the environmental costs associated with the bluefin fishery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a group of scientists is now making the case that Atlantic bluefin may be more resilient to fishing than commonly thought — and perhaps better able to rebound from the species' depleted state. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2016/03/04/1525636113.full?sid=a03f6d77-51ee-4209-a5e3-7f43e2f32228\">a paper\u003c/a> published Monday in the journal \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,\u003c/em> the researchers suggest that fishery managers reassess the western Atlantic bluefin's population, which could ultimately allow more of the fish to be caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 10 co-authors, most of whom are scientists with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, say they've all but confirmed that bluefin tuna spawn in an area of the Atlantic Ocean previously suspected but not known to be a breeding ground. Not only that; the tuna spawning in this area off the Atlantic Coast are much younger and smaller than the age and size at which it was previously believed the fish become sexually mature, according to the scientists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, their paper claims, would make the western Atlantic bluefin tuna \"less vulnerable to overexploitation and extinction than is currently estimated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study is controversial. Several tuna researchers we spoke with warned that the results are preliminary, and it's much too soon to use them to guide how fisheries are managed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"New science and new information is good. What one has to be careful of is attempting to manage the Atlantic bluefin population from a single study. The situation is always complex,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/about/experts/amanda-nickson\">Amanda Nickson\u003c/a>, director of global tuna conservation at the Pew Charitable Trusts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologist, author and former tuna fisherman \u003ca href=\"http://safinacenter.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Carl Safina\u003c/a> cautions that the research doesn't change how fishing has already impacted the Atlantic bluefin, which is listed as \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/21860/0\">endangered\u003c/a> by the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List. The U.S. federal government considers the species overfished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this is in fact true, that they're spawning in this area [in addition to the Gulf of Mexico] and it wasn't just a one-year occurrence, it's good to know that the potential for recovery is brighter than we would have thought. But it certainly doesn't mean they were less depleted than they've been,\" Safina tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Duke University research scientist \u003ca href=\"https://nicholas.duke.edu/people/faculty/boustany\" target=\"_blank\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a bluefin expert who was not involved in the study, says the findings should be used cautiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the current population of Atlantic bluefin of reproductive age is indeed larger than once believed, that would mean that, historically, there were a lot more spawning bluefin than once thought, Boustany says. And that means that goals for recovery of the Atlantic bluefin would have to be set at a higher level, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we're trying to rebuild the population within a certain time frame, then we might need to actually reduce the amount of fish we're catching now,\" Boustany explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To produce their results, the researchers behind the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> paper dragged a fine-meshed plankton net through a portion of the coastal North Atlantic known as the Slope Sea in 2013. They captured dozens of bluefin tuna larvae no more than 5 or 6 days old. The site is far from known spawning areas in the Gulf of Mexico. That great distance, coupled with the slow speed of the ocean currents, meant only one thing, explains David Richardson, the study's lead author:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>These young tuna had been born in the immediate vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was very clear these fish had not come from the Gulf of Mexico,\" Richardson, a larval fish biologist with the NOAA's Northeast Fisheries Science Center, tells us. \"It's just too far a distance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richardson and his colleagues have also analyzed the movements of adult bluefin tuna tagged with electronic transmitters by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tunalab.org/aboutus.htm\">Large Pelagics Research Center\u003c/a> at the University of Massachusetts, Boston. The tracking data provided evidence that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>western Atlantic bluefin appear to begin spawning at a much younger age than previously believed, when they're about 5 years old, instead of 14 or 15. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we found in our tagging data is that really big bluefin swim through the Slope Sea really fast, in three or four days, whereas the smaller bluefin — around 100 pounds to 400 or 500 pounds — are staying in the Slope Sea for about a 20-day duration,\" he says. The suspicion, he elaborates, is that younger, smaller tuna are spawning in the Slope Sea. Then, when they become older and bigger, they begin spawning in the Gulf of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is significant, because species that don't reach sexual maturity until they're older are considered especially vulnerable to overfishing. That's because such fish may easily be caught years before they've spawned even once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the western Atlantic bluefin are actually spawning much younger than once believed, that should be factored into population assessments, the study authors argue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lowering the age at maturity will increase estimates of spawning stock biomass and will likely lead to higher estimates\" of how much bluefin can be fished sustainably, their paper says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://woods.stanford.edu/about/woods-faculty/barbara-block\">Barbara Block\u003c/a>, a marine biologist with the Stanford Woods Institute for the Environment, says the study is \"interesting.\" But she says much more evidence is needed — like actually seeing these sexually mature tuna in the Slope Sea — before it can be concluded that Atlantic bluefin are spawning at a younger age and in a new region than believed before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers' conclusions — that perhaps more bluefin can be caught — also have Safina highly skeptical of their study, which he says looks like a ploy by fishery-friendly scientists to create a higher catch allowance for the Atlantic tuna fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email exchange with The Salt, Safina writes, \"[T]heir main concern is not recovery, not conservation, but how their findings can allow additional exploitation and more stress to be inflicted on a very beleaguered creature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"https://www.umb.edu/academics/csm/faculty_staff/molly_lutcavage\">Molly Lutcavage,\u003c/a> a researcher at the University of Massachusetts, Boston and a co-author of the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> study, dismissed Safina as an \"enviro bully\" and an ideologue who ignores the science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can't do good conservation without good science,\" she told us, responding to Safina's comments. In a \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Tuna/environmental-bullies-how-conservation-ideologues-attack-scientists-who-don-t-agree-with-them-8b48e57385bd#.rhak0pwy1\">post\u003c/a> published Tuesday on Medium, she offers a vehement defense of her research. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A study suggests Atlantic bluefin, prized for its buttery flesh, may breed younger, and in more places, than once thought — and it may be time to rethink fishing quotas. Not so fast, critics argue.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1457542748,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1100},"headData":{"title":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves | KQED","description":"A study suggests Atlantic bluefin, prized for its buttery flesh, may breed younger, and in more places, than once thought — and it may be time to rethink fishing quotas. Not so fast, critics argue.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"107537 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107537","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/09/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves/","disqusTitle":"How In Trouble Are Bluefin Tuna, Really? Controversial Study Makes Waves","nprImageCredit":"Pablo Blazquez Dominguez","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"469551768","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=469551768&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/08/469551768/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves?ft=nprml&f=469551768","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:41:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:05:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 08 Mar 2016 18:41:24 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/107537/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Bluefin tuna have been severely depleted by fishermen, and the fish have become a globally recognized poster child for the impacts of overfishing. Many chefs refuse to serve its rich, buttery flesh; many retailers no longer carry it; and consumers have become increasingly aware of the environmental costs associated with the bluefin fishery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a group of scientists is now making the case that Atlantic bluefin may be more resilient to fishing than commonly thought — and perhaps better able to rebound from the species' depleted state. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2016/03/04/1525636113.full?sid=a03f6d77-51ee-4209-a5e3-7f43e2f32228\">a paper\u003c/a> published Monday in the journal \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,\u003c/em> the researchers suggest that fishery managers reassess the western Atlantic bluefin's population, which could ultimately allow more of the fish to be caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 10 co-authors, most of whom are scientists with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, say they've all but confirmed that bluefin tuna spawn in an area of the Atlantic Ocean previously suspected but not known to be a breeding ground. Not only that; the tuna spawning in this area off the Atlantic Coast are much younger and smaller than the age and size at which it was previously believed the fish become sexually mature, according to the scientists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, their paper claims, would make the western Atlantic bluefin tuna \"less vulnerable to overexploitation and extinction than is currently estimated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study is controversial. Several tuna researchers we spoke with warned that the results are preliminary, and it's much too soon to use them to guide how fisheries are managed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"New science and new information is good. What one has to be careful of is attempting to manage the Atlantic bluefin population from a single study. The situation is always complex,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/about/experts/amanda-nickson\">Amanda Nickson\u003c/a>, director of global tuna conservation at the Pew Charitable Trusts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ecologist, author and former tuna fisherman \u003ca href=\"http://safinacenter.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Carl Safina\u003c/a> cautions that the research doesn't change how fishing has already impacted the Atlantic bluefin, which is listed as \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/21860/0\">endangered\u003c/a> by the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List. The U.S. federal government considers the species overfished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this is in fact true, that they're spawning in this area [in addition to the Gulf of Mexico] and it wasn't just a one-year occurrence, it's good to know that the potential for recovery is brighter than we would have thought. But it certainly doesn't mean they were less depleted than they've been,\" Safina tells The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Duke University research scientist \u003ca href=\"https://nicholas.duke.edu/people/faculty/boustany\" target=\"_blank\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a bluefin expert who was not involved in the study, says the findings should be used cautiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the current population of Atlantic bluefin of reproductive age is indeed larger than once believed, that would mean that, historically, there were a lot more spawning bluefin than once thought, Boustany says. And that means that goals for recovery of the Atlantic bluefin would have to be set at a higher level, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we're trying to rebuild the population within a certain time frame, then we might need to actually reduce the amount of fish we're catching now,\" Boustany explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To produce their results, the researchers behind the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> paper dragged a fine-meshed plankton net through a portion of the coastal North Atlantic known as the Slope Sea in 2013. They captured dozens of bluefin tuna larvae no more than 5 or 6 days old. The site is far from known spawning areas in the Gulf of Mexico. That great distance, coupled with the slow speed of the ocean currents, meant only one thing, explains David Richardson, the study's lead author:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>These young tuna had been born in the immediate vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was very clear these fish had not come from the Gulf of Mexico,\" Richardson, a larval fish biologist with the NOAA's Northeast Fisheries Science Center, tells us. \"It's just too far a distance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Richardson and his colleagues have also analyzed the movements of adult bluefin tuna tagged with electronic transmitters by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tunalab.org/aboutus.htm\">Large Pelagics Research Center\u003c/a> at the University of Massachusetts, Boston. The tracking data provided evidence that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>western Atlantic bluefin appear to begin spawning at a much younger age than previously believed, when they're about 5 years old, instead of 14 or 15. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What we found in our tagging data is that really big bluefin swim through the Slope Sea really fast, in three or four days, whereas the smaller bluefin — around 100 pounds to 400 or 500 pounds — are staying in the Slope Sea for about a 20-day duration,\" he says. The suspicion, he elaborates, is that younger, smaller tuna are spawning in the Slope Sea. Then, when they become older and bigger, they begin spawning in the Gulf of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is significant, because species that don't reach sexual maturity until they're older are considered especially vulnerable to overfishing. That's because such fish may easily be caught years before they've spawned even once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the western Atlantic bluefin are actually spawning much younger than once believed, that should be factored into population assessments, the study authors argue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lowering the age at maturity will increase estimates of spawning stock biomass and will likely lead to higher estimates\" of how much bluefin can be fished sustainably, their paper says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://woods.stanford.edu/about/woods-faculty/barbara-block\">Barbara Block\u003c/a>, a marine biologist with the Stanford Woods Institute for the Environment, says the study is \"interesting.\" But she says much more evidence is needed — like actually seeing these sexually mature tuna in the Slope Sea — before it can be concluded that Atlantic bluefin are spawning at a younger age and in a new region than believed before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers' conclusions — that perhaps more bluefin can be caught — also have Safina highly skeptical of their study, which he says looks like a ploy by fishery-friendly scientists to create a higher catch allowance for the Atlantic tuna fleet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email exchange with The Salt, Safina writes, \"[T]heir main concern is not recovery, not conservation, but how their findings can allow additional exploitation and more stress to be inflicted on a very beleaguered creature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003ca href=\"https://www.umb.edu/academics/csm/faculty_staff/molly_lutcavage\">Molly Lutcavage,\u003c/a> a researcher at the University of Massachusetts, Boston and a co-author of the \u003cem>PNAS\u003c/em> study, dismissed Safina as an \"enviro bully\" and an ideologue who ignores the science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can't do good conservation without good science,\" she told us, responding to Safina's comments. In a \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Tuna/environmental-bullies-how-conservation-ideologues-attack-scientists-who-don-t-agree-with-them-8b48e57385bd#.rhak0pwy1\">post\u003c/a> published Tuesday on Medium, she offers a vehement defense of her research. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107537/how-in-trouble-are-bluefin-tuna-really-controversial-study-makes-waves","authors":["byline_bayareabites_107537"],"categories":["bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_15338","bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_836","bayareabites_8932","bayareabites_13239","bayareabites_14742"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107538","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_96845":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_96845","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"96845","score":null,"sort":[1434065532000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-is-this-fisherman-selling-threatened-bluefin-tuna-for-2-99-a-pound","title":"Why Is This Fisherman Selling Threatened Bluefin Tuna For $2.99 A Pound?","publishDate":1434065532,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Twenty minutes before the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market was set to open, the line was 75 people deep and starting to curl past the pier. The crowd here last Saturday didn't come for the local sand dabs or trap-caught black cod. They were bargain hunters looking to score freshly caught, whole Pacific bluefin tuna for the unbelievably low price of only $2.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's less per pound for this fish — a delicacy prized for its fatty flesh, whose numbers are rapidly dwindling — than the cost of sliced turkey meat at a supermarket deli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a low price that doesn't reflect the true state of Pacific bluefin: Scientists and environmentalists say the species is in deep trouble. According to population estimates, stocks of Pacific bluefin tuna are at historic lows, down 96 percent from the levels they'd be at if they weren't fished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But commercial fishermen like David Haworth, who brought this pile of small, steely gray bluefin to market, say that assessment doesn't match up with what they're seeing in the water: a\u003ca href=\"http://www.petethomasoutdoors.com/2015/06/173-pound-bluefin-tuna-speared-off-dana-point-exceeds-state-record-by-75-pounds.html\"> record-smashing\u003c/a> abundance of Pacific bluefin tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our spotter pilots that have been fishing with us for up to 40 years here say they're seeing the most bluefin they've ever seen in their lifetimes, and our government is not documenting any of it,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth, 52, is the last purse-seine tuna fisherman in San Diego — a city once heralded as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2009/jun/20/1ez20history182544-san-diego-once-was-tuna-capital/\">tuna capital of the world\u003c/a>. Making a living isn't easy for commercial fishermen like Haworth. For much of the year he fishes for squid, but El Nino patterns have changed fishery patterns, making squid harder to find. And forget about the sardine fishery — crashing stocks have \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2015/04/16/400177895/feds-place-commercial-sardine-fishing-on-hold-for-more-than-a-year\">triggered its closure\u003c/a> until 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, warmer ocean conditions have brought an abundance of bluefin tuna into the region, shifting Haworth's focus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, he says, \"there was never really a quota on bluefin, and we could go out and catch plenty and sell them. Or we could catch sardines, or mackerel, so we'd have something to do when [ocean] conditions changed\" or when the species that Haworth depended on for his income became less reliable. \"Now, we're just so restricted.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bluefin tuna has long been listed as a species to \"avoid\" by influential groups like the Monterey Bay Aquarium's \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> program. It's a warning that many seem to have taken to heart. And it means the higher prices fishermen like Haworth used to count on for bluefin are no longer a sure thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth says wholesalers who used to clamor for his bluefin now pass on it, preferring yellowfin tuna instead. Supermarkets and chefs that once eagerly purchased bluefin have pledged not to carry it. Fellow San Diego fisherman Tory Becker tried to sell some of Haworth's bluefin tuna at a local farmers market last week and was publicly scolded by a customer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96847\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of people queued up to buy Pacific bluefin for the bargain price of $2.99 per pound last Saturday at the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market.\" width=\"920\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96847\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e.jpg 920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e-800x600.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A long line of people queued up to buy Pacific bluefin for the bargain price of $2.99 per pound last Saturday at the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market. \u003ccite>(Clare Leschin-Hoar for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haworth says that the buyer he had originally lined up for his haul backed out of the sale, then later offered him a mere $1-$2 a pound — too low for him to break even. Instead, he took his catch and headed for San Diego's fledgling fishers market to sell directly to local foodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you have a 30-pound fish, and you're selling it to a consumer for $2.99 a pound, it's $90 for one fish. I was trying to get to the price point where we're going to make decent money, but one where every family could come down and grab a fish if they want one,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the bounty of bluefin that California fishermen like Haworth \u003ca href=\"https://swfsc.noaa.gov/uploadedFiles/Divisions/FRD/Large_Pelagics/Tuna/Pacific%20bluefin_frequently%20asked%20questions_March%202015.pdf\">report seeing\u003c/a> is not what it seems, scientists say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very difficult task to count animals as elusive as tuna,\" says Craig Heberer, the West Coast regional coordinator for\u003ca href=\"http://www.westcoast.fisheries.noaa.gov/stories/2015/11_02112015_rec_fishing.html\"> recreational fisheries\u003c/a> for NOAA Fisheries. \"The increase in the number of bluefin spotted by Southern California fishermen likely [reflects] a change in the percentage of migrating fish, not the overall population numbers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacific bluefin off the coast of California and Mexico aren't counted in current stock assessments. That's because spawning grounds for Pacific bluefin are located in the western Pacific Ocean, near Japan. Some, but not all, of those fish then migrate to the U.S. West Coast and Mexico to feed. Counting them where they spawn, rather than where only a portion of them migrate, is how regulators say they get the most accurate information.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The migration to the U.S. side of the Pacific happens when bluefin are between 1 and 3 years old, which also explains why the tuna Haworth caught were so small — just 20 to 30 pounds each. They're technically still juveniles that haven't had the opportunity to reproduce and help replenish bluefin numbers. Mature Pacific bluefin can reach 1,200 pounds, and don't typically reproduce until they're closer to 5 years old. By that point, they would have already migrated back to their spawning grounds on the other side of the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/profile/theresa-sinicrope-talley\">Theresa Sinicrope Talley\u003c/a>, a coastal specialist with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego, says local fishermen like Haworth are simply catching what's plentiful and pricing it to local demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're trying to make this business work. They're aware,\" she says. \"They don't want to harm the environment, either — their livelihood depends upon it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"From their perspective,\" she says, \"they're abiding by the law.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/fishing-tuna.jpg\" alt=\"Workers get more bluefin tuna from the deck of the Barbara H., David Haworth's vessel, to bring up on the dock for sale.\" width=\"400\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96854\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers get more bluefin tuna from the deck of the Barbara H., David Haworth's vessel, to bring up on the dock for sale. \u003ccite>(Clare Leschin-Hoar for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In recent years, Haworth and other commercial fisherman in the U.S. have seen the amount of bluefin they're allowed to catch slashed drastically as part of international agreements. Bluefin were once reliably lucrative for Haworth, but the cuts have affected his ability to make a living, he says. And he feels strongly that in the larger scheme of things, the amount of bluefin he catches is so small, it doesn't negatively impact global stocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico now has a quota of 6,000 metric tons of fish over two years,\" he notes, while the quota for U.S. commercial fishermen is just a tenth of that. \"How could our 600 metric tons not be sustainable, when you think about it in the picture of the whole world? We're only catching 600 tons,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth says he often feels villainized by environmental groups for fishing for this vulnerable species. But not everyone blames small fishermen like him for declining stock levels. Some are pointing the finger at the very organizations that oversee bluefin fisheries and set the world's catch limits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://mgel.env.duke.edu/people/andre-boustany/\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a research scientist and bluefin expert at Duke University, faults the agencies that manage the fishery for failing to conduct a \u003ca href=\"http://isc.ac.affrc.go.jp/working_groups/pacific_bluefin_tuna.html\">full assessment\u003c/a> of Pacific bluefin stock until 2012 — \"well after massive damage had already been done.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While Pacific bluefin tuna are not currently listed as endangered in the U.S., that could change if the stock maintains its current trajectory. And I say that as a scientist that is most definitely not an alarmist,\" Boustany says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pew Charitable Trusts plans to call for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/research-and-analysis/issue-briefs/2015/06/recommendations-to-the-89th-meeting-of-the-inter-american-tropical-tuna-commission\">stronger measures\u003c/a> to protect Pacific bluefin later this month, when the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission — the agency responsible for setting international catch limits — meets in Ecuador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We would disagree that the quotas, as they are currently set, are sustainable,\" says Jamie Gibbon, a tuna expert with Pew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's still hope for the Pacific bluefin — and for fishermen like Haworth. For years its cousin, the Atlantic bluefin, was also experiencing rapidly declining stocks, garnering lots of headlines and hand-wringing. All that attention now seems to be paying off: This year, for the first time since 2006, stocks are healthy enough that \u003ca href=\"http://www.undercurrentnews.com/2015/05/26/bluefin-tuna-2015-fishing-season-kicks-off-with-20-quota-increase/\">catch quotas were actually increased\u003c/a> by 20 percent. Gibbon says it's not too late for the Pacific bluefin, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a population that can recover, and can recover in a relatively short amount of time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"That low price doesn't reflect the true state of Pacific bluefin: Scientists say it's in deep trouble. But fishermen who catch it say they're just trying to make a living — and obeying the law.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1434065532,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":32,"wordCount":1445},"headData":{"title":"Why Is This Fisherman Selling Threatened Bluefin Tuna For $2.99 A Pound? | KQED","description":"That low price doesn't reflect the true state of Pacific bluefin: Scientists say it's in deep trouble. But fishermen who catch it say they're just trying to make a living — and obeying the law.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"96845 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=96845","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/06/11/why-is-this-fisherman-selling-threatened-bluefin-tuna-for-2-99-a-pound/","disqusTitle":"Why Is This Fisherman Selling Threatened Bluefin Tuna For $2.99 A Pound?","nprByline":"Clare Leschin-Hoar, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"412943456","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=412943456&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/11/412943456/why-is-this-fisherman-selling-threatened-bluefin-tuna-for-2-99-a-pound?ft=nprml&f=412943456","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:12:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:56:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:12:48 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/96845/why-is-this-fisherman-selling-threatened-bluefin-tuna-for-2-99-a-pound","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Twenty minutes before the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market was set to open, the line was 75 people deep and starting to curl past the pier. The crowd here last Saturday didn't come for the local sand dabs or trap-caught black cod. They were bargain hunters looking to score freshly caught, whole Pacific bluefin tuna for the unbelievably low price of only $2.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's less per pound for this fish — a delicacy prized for its fatty flesh, whose numbers are rapidly dwindling — than the cost of sliced turkey meat at a supermarket deli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a low price that doesn't reflect the true state of Pacific bluefin: Scientists and environmentalists say the species is in deep trouble. According to population estimates, stocks of Pacific bluefin tuna are at historic lows, down 96 percent from the levels they'd be at if they weren't fished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But commercial fishermen like David Haworth, who brought this pile of small, steely gray bluefin to market, say that assessment doesn't match up with what they're seeing in the water: a\u003ca href=\"http://www.petethomasoutdoors.com/2015/06/173-pound-bluefin-tuna-speared-off-dana-point-exceeds-state-record-by-75-pounds.html\"> record-smashing\u003c/a> abundance of Pacific bluefin tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our spotter pilots that have been fishing with us for up to 40 years here say they're seeing the most bluefin they've ever seen in their lifetimes, and our government is not documenting any of it,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth, 52, is the last purse-seine tuna fisherman in San Diego — a city once heralded as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2009/jun/20/1ez20history182544-san-diego-once-was-tuna-capital/\">tuna capital of the world\u003c/a>. Making a living isn't easy for commercial fishermen like Haworth. For much of the year he fishes for squid, but El Nino patterns have changed fishery patterns, making squid harder to find. And forget about the sardine fishery — crashing stocks have \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2015/04/16/400177895/feds-place-commercial-sardine-fishing-on-hold-for-more-than-a-year\">triggered its closure\u003c/a> until 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, warmer ocean conditions have brought an abundance of bluefin tuna into the region, shifting Haworth's focus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, he says, \"there was never really a quota on bluefin, and we could go out and catch plenty and sell them. Or we could catch sardines, or mackerel, so we'd have something to do when [ocean] conditions changed\" or when the species that Haworth depended on for his income became less reliable. \"Now, we're just so restricted.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bluefin tuna has long been listed as a species to \"avoid\" by influential groups like the Monterey Bay Aquarium's \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> program. It's a warning that many seem to have taken to heart. And it means the higher prices fishermen like Haworth used to count on for bluefin are no longer a sure thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth says wholesalers who used to clamor for his bluefin now pass on it, preferring yellowfin tuna instead. Supermarkets and chefs that once eagerly purchased bluefin have pledged not to carry it. Fellow San Diego fisherman Tory Becker tried to sell some of Haworth's bluefin tuna at a local farmers market last week and was publicly scolded by a customer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96847\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of people queued up to buy Pacific bluefin for the bargain price of $2.99 per pound last Saturday at the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market.\" width=\"920\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96847\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e.jpg 920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/img_5826-fd53cba9fee6ff1dce1760e677ceea8bc239120e-800x600.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A long line of people queued up to buy Pacific bluefin for the bargain price of $2.99 per pound last Saturday at the San Diego Tuna Harbor Dockside Market. \u003ccite>(Clare Leschin-Hoar for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haworth says that the buyer he had originally lined up for his haul backed out of the sale, then later offered him a mere $1-$2 a pound — too low for him to break even. Instead, he took his catch and headed for San Diego's fledgling fishers market to sell directly to local foodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you have a 30-pound fish, and you're selling it to a consumer for $2.99 a pound, it's $90 for one fish. I was trying to get to the price point where we're going to make decent money, but one where every family could come down and grab a fish if they want one,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the bounty of bluefin that California fishermen like Haworth \u003ca href=\"https://swfsc.noaa.gov/uploadedFiles/Divisions/FRD/Large_Pelagics/Tuna/Pacific%20bluefin_frequently%20asked%20questions_March%202015.pdf\">report seeing\u003c/a> is not what it seems, scientists say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very difficult task to count animals as elusive as tuna,\" says Craig Heberer, the West Coast regional coordinator for\u003ca href=\"http://www.westcoast.fisheries.noaa.gov/stories/2015/11_02112015_rec_fishing.html\"> recreational fisheries\u003c/a> for NOAA Fisheries. \"The increase in the number of bluefin spotted by Southern California fishermen likely [reflects] a change in the percentage of migrating fish, not the overall population numbers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacific bluefin off the coast of California and Mexico aren't counted in current stock assessments. That's because spawning grounds for Pacific bluefin are located in the western Pacific Ocean, near Japan. Some, but not all, of those fish then migrate to the U.S. West Coast and Mexico to feed. Counting them where they spawn, rather than where only a portion of them migrate, is how regulators say they get the most accurate information.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The migration to the U.S. side of the Pacific happens when bluefin are between 1 and 3 years old, which also explains why the tuna Haworth caught were so small — just 20 to 30 pounds each. They're technically still juveniles that haven't had the opportunity to reproduce and help replenish bluefin numbers. Mature Pacific bluefin can reach 1,200 pounds, and don't typically reproduce until they're closer to 5 years old. By that point, they would have already migrated back to their spawning grounds on the other side of the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/profile/theresa-sinicrope-talley\">Theresa Sinicrope Talley\u003c/a>, a coastal specialist with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego, says local fishermen like Haworth are simply catching what's plentiful and pricing it to local demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're trying to make this business work. They're aware,\" she says. \"They don't want to harm the environment, either — their livelihood depends upon it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"From their perspective,\" she says, \"they're abiding by the law.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/06/fishing-tuna.jpg\" alt=\"Workers get more bluefin tuna from the deck of the Barbara H., David Haworth's vessel, to bring up on the dock for sale.\" width=\"400\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-96854\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers get more bluefin tuna from the deck of the Barbara H., David Haworth's vessel, to bring up on the dock for sale. \u003ccite>(Clare Leschin-Hoar for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In recent years, Haworth and other commercial fisherman in the U.S. have seen the amount of bluefin they're allowed to catch slashed drastically as part of international agreements. Bluefin were once reliably lucrative for Haworth, but the cuts have affected his ability to make a living, he says. And he feels strongly that in the larger scheme of things, the amount of bluefin he catches is so small, it doesn't negatively impact global stocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico now has a quota of 6,000 metric tons of fish over two years,\" he notes, while the quota for U.S. commercial fishermen is just a tenth of that. \"How could our 600 metric tons not be sustainable, when you think about it in the picture of the whole world? We're only catching 600 tons,\" says Haworth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haworth says he often feels villainized by environmental groups for fishing for this vulnerable species. But not everyone blames small fishermen like him for declining stock levels. Some are pointing the finger at the very organizations that oversee bluefin fisheries and set the world's catch limits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://mgel.env.duke.edu/people/andre-boustany/\">Andre Boustany\u003c/a>, a research scientist and bluefin expert at Duke University, faults the agencies that manage the fishery for failing to conduct a \u003ca href=\"http://isc.ac.affrc.go.jp/working_groups/pacific_bluefin_tuna.html\">full assessment\u003c/a> of Pacific bluefin stock until 2012 — \"well after massive damage had already been done.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While Pacific bluefin tuna are not currently listed as endangered in the U.S., that could change if the stock maintains its current trajectory. And I say that as a scientist that is most definitely not an alarmist,\" Boustany says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pew Charitable Trusts plans to call for \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewtrusts.org/en/research-and-analysis/issue-briefs/2015/06/recommendations-to-the-89th-meeting-of-the-inter-american-tropical-tuna-commission\">stronger measures\u003c/a> to protect Pacific bluefin later this month, when the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission — the agency responsible for setting international catch limits — meets in Ecuador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We would disagree that the quotas, as they are currently set, are sustainable,\" says Jamie Gibbon, a tuna expert with Pew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's still hope for the Pacific bluefin — and for fishermen like Haworth. For years its cousin, the Atlantic bluefin, was also experiencing rapidly declining stocks, garnering lots of headlines and hand-wringing. All that attention now seems to be paying off: This year, for the first time since 2006, stocks are healthy enough that \u003ca href=\"http://www.undercurrentnews.com/2015/05/26/bluefin-tuna-2015-fishing-season-kicks-off-with-20-quota-increase/\">catch quotas were actually increased\u003c/a> by 20 percent. Gibbon says it's not too late for the Pacific bluefin, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a population that can recover, and can recover in a relatively short amount of time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/96845/why-is-this-fisherman-selling-threatened-bluefin-tuna-for-2-99-a-pound","authors":["byline_bayareabites_96845"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_14558","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_14559"],"featImg":"bayareabites_96846","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_91895":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_91895","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"91895","score":null,"sort":[1420664431000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","title":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna","publishDate":1420664431,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91897\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna\" target=\"_blank\">by \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348764033/eliza-barclay\" target=\"_blank\">Eliza Barclay\u003c/a>, The Salt at NPR Food (1/7/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, a single 380-pound bluefin tuna \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">sold\u003c/a> for about $37,500 in the first auction of the year at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. That's far below the peak price of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/07/168813383/the-1-76-million-tuna-great-for-publicity-bad-for-the-species\">$1.76 million\u003c/a> that a bluefin went for at the same market in 2013, and this year's price isn't a good indicator of the supply, or population status. But it is a reminder of the unrelenting hunger and willingness to pay top dollar for the fatty pink flesh of this swiftly disappearing wild fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2015 inaugural bluefin is bound for a popular restaurant chain in Japan called Sushi-Zanmai, according to \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">wire reports\u003c/a>. Japan consumes 80 percent of the world's bluefin, and international conservation groups say that demand from the Asian sushi and sashimi industry is mainly to blame for the rapid decline in bluefin populations in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November, the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/news/global-appetite-for-resources-pushing-new-species-to-the-brink\">moved\u003c/a> Pacific bluefin tuna from \"least concern\" to \"vulnerable,\" which means that the fish is now threatened with extinction. It joins the southern bluefin, which is \"critically endangered\" — the third, and most threatened IUCN designation — and the Atlantic bluefin, which is \"endangered,\" the second level. In all cases, overfishing is making it nearly impossible for the spawning stock to rebuild the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, just as many Japanese sushi chefs can't say no to the glistening meat on offer, neither can several American chefs — even though U.S. conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/samuel-fromartz/nobu-feels-the-heat-about_b_213314.html\">media\u003c/a> and the food cognoscenti made a big stink about it in 2009, and in 2010, the Center for Biological Diversity launched the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bluefin-Tuna-Boycott-Join-the-Bluefin-Brigade/107330386001726\">Bluefin Boycott\u003c/a>, which has garnered 80,000 signatures from people who've pledged not to eat the fish or serve it. (Among the signatories were owners of big-name restaurants like Blue Hill, Chez Panisse and Tataki Sushi.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you'll still find tiny morsels of bluefin on tasting menus at glittery sushi restaurants in New York and Los Angeles like Nobu, Morimoto and Masa, and at the Michelin-starred Terra in Napa Valley. It has become a luxury food item — like shark fin or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/03/337162283/taste-for-rare-wild-pangolin-is-driving-the-mammal-to-extinction\">pangolin\u003c/a> in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\" alt=\"The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And we received an invitation in October from Jaleo, one of celebrity chef Jose Andres' Spanish-themed restaurants in Washington, D.C., for a \"Tuna Celebration\" featuring four dishes with bluefin. (The event was postponed; more on it and Andres later.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one clear reason why it's still on menus: \"Bluefin tuna belly is one of the most delicious things in the world,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/bruce-mattel/\">Bruce Mattel\u003c/a>, associate dean of food production at the Culinary Institute of America. But, he says, the decision to serve bluefin is \"largely driven by demographics and customer base\" — in other words, chefs beholden to people spending hundreds of dollars on a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs at top restaurants can't really play dumb about how few bluefin are left in the sea, Mattel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think most [chefs] are aware of the conservation issues,\" Mattel tells us. \"I don't know how you cannot be aware if you have a passion for fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One internationally acclaimed chef who's aware — and gravely concerned — is Japanese sushi master Jiro Ono, subject of the 2011 documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/16/148737187/cameras-follow-worlds-greatest-sushi-chef\">Jiro Dreams of Sushi\u003c/a> and the chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/306227740/obama-gets-a-taste-of-jiros-dream-sushi-in-name-of-diplomacy\">who prepared sushi \u003c/a>for President Obama during a visit to Japan in April 2014. In November, Ono told the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan: \"I can't imagine at all that sushi in the future will be made of the same materials we use today. I told my young men three years ago sushi materials will totally change in five years. And now, such a trend is becoming a reality little by little.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/jiro-ono-warns-raw-deal-overfishing-article-1.1998645\">According to\u003c/a> the \u003cem>New York Daily News\u003c/em>, Ono was referring to his troubles getting high-quality Pacific bluefin, and having to rely on Atlantic bluefin instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattel of the CIA says he won't order that species of tuna anymore, whether he's dining or cooking. And he's troubled and perplexed by chefs' continued use of it, when there are so many other delicious fish they could be cooking instead. \"When you think about the diversity of the oceans, it just baffles that we're so dependent on this species,\" says Mattel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We asked the chefs at Nobu and Terra in Napa Valley to explain why they still serve it, but we got no response to our calls and emails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After repeated requests for an interview, Jose Andres finally sat down with us to explain why he included bluefin on the menu for his Tuna Celebration. The event was postponed last fall, but Andres says he may still host it in May. It will be focused around\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, a coastal Spanish tradition of carving a whole bluefin tuna in front of an audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I wanted to do was celebrate the way of life of the people in the Mediterranean, show the disappearing way of life, the \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em>,\" he says, referring to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhIqzqpE9D8\">elaborate and ancient system of nets\u003c/a> used in small fishing communities. For the celebration, he hopes to bring over fishermen from Galicia, Spain, who catch the fish this way only once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And ultimately, Andres argues, these artisanal fishermen who've been catching Atlantic bluefin their whole lives the same way their grandfathers did, are not to blame for the species' decimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I believe something radical should be done. We should be stopping those [large fishing] fleets following those tunas. If that means also stopping those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> in Spain, Turkey, Italy, I will say so ... but I don't believe those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> catchers are the problem.\" (After our interview, Andres said he might not serve bluefin at the tuna event, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biologicaldiversity.org/about/staff/\">Catherine Kilduff\u003c/a>, staff attorney for the Center for Biological Diversity, agrees that the agencies charged with regulating fishing of bluefin haven't set low enough limits for fishermen big or small to allow the populations to recover. And, she says, the fishermen who catch bluefin can still make a lot of money from them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, this is an environmental issue that's been very responsive in the past to economics,\" she says. \"There are still people who want to buy it; that's why the price is so high. The only way to break that loop is to have people say they're valuable in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, Kilduff says, eating a tuna caught by an artisanal fisherman in a Mediterranean \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> isn't any more defensible than eating one caught by a massive Japanese trawler: \"The argument that there's a way to catch them that makes it sustainable is kind of a red herring.\" (This is why some fishermen have decided instead to try and farm bluefin, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/30/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price/\">reported\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while American consumers are not the primary consumers of bluefin, their influence still matters a lot, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public demand that these fish not go extinct is the only thing that's going to save them,\" says Kilduff. \"Having people go into restaurants [serving it and telling them not to] is probably the most direct way to vote on those issues.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Japanese sushi chefs often can't resist bluefin tuna on offer. Some American chefs can't either, even though conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1420664431,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1301},"headData":{"title":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna | KQED","description":"Japanese sushi chefs often can't resist bluefin tuna on offer. Some American chefs can't either, even though conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"91895 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=91895","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/07/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna/","disqusTitle":"Why Some Chefs Just Can't Quit Serving Bluefin Tuna","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"375366742","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=375366742&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna?ft=3&f=375366742","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 14:28:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 12:01:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 07 Jan 2015 14:27:59 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/91895/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-1_enl-4508bc0741d23812a49587be7ea12a6d7cf3bba3-e1420664098474.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91897\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-rolled bluefin tuna sushi is prepared with green onions at Vegas Uncork'd by Bon Appetit's Grand Tasting event in Las Vegas. Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images for Vegas Uncork'd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2015/01/07/375366742/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna\" target=\"_blank\">by \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348764033/eliza-barclay\" target=\"_blank\">Eliza Barclay\u003c/a>, The Salt at NPR Food (1/7/15)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, a single 380-pound bluefin tuna \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">sold\u003c/a> for about $37,500 in the first auction of the year at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. That's far below the peak price of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/07/168813383/the-1-76-million-tuna-great-for-publicity-bad-for-the-species\">$1.76 million\u003c/a> that a bluefin went for at the same market in 2013, and this year's price isn't a good indicator of the supply, or population status. But it is a reminder of the unrelenting hunger and willingness to pay top dollar for the fatty pink flesh of this swiftly disappearing wild fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2015 inaugural bluefin is bound for a popular restaurant chain in Japan called Sushi-Zanmai, according to \u003ca href=\"http://phys.org/news/2015-01-bluefin-tuna-nets-tokyo-year.html\">wire reports\u003c/a>. Japan consumes 80 percent of the world's bluefin, and international conservation groups say that demand from the Asian sushi and sashimi industry is mainly to blame for the rapid decline in bluefin populations in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November, the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List \u003ca href=\"http://www.iucnredlist.org/news/global-appetite-for-resources-pushing-new-species-to-the-brink\">moved\u003c/a> Pacific bluefin tuna from \"least concern\" to \"vulnerable,\" which means that the fish is now threatened with extinction. It joins the southern bluefin, which is \"critically endangered\" — the third, and most threatened IUCN designation — and the Atlantic bluefin, which is \"endangered,\" the second level. In all cases, overfishing is making it nearly impossible for the spawning stock to rebuild the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, just as many Japanese sushi chefs can't say no to the glistening meat on offer, neither can several American chefs — even though U.S. conservation groups and marine biologists have been badgering them about bluefin for years. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/samuel-fromartz/nobu-feels-the-heat-about_b_213314.html\">media\u003c/a> and the food cognoscenti made a big stink about it in 2009, and in 2010, the Center for Biological Diversity launched the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bluefin-Tuna-Boycott-Join-the-Bluefin-Brigade/107330386001726\">Bluefin Boycott\u003c/a>, which has garnered 80,000 signatures from people who've pledged not to eat the fish or serve it. (Among the signatories were owners of big-name restaurants like Blue Hill, Chez Panisse and Tataki Sushi.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you'll still find tiny morsels of bluefin on tasting menus at glittery sushi restaurants in New York and Los Angeles like Nobu, Morimoto and Masa, and at the Michelin-starred Terra in Napa Valley. It has become a luxury food item — like shark fin or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/03/337162283/taste-for-rare-wild-pangolin-is-driving-the-mammal-to-extinction\">pangolin\u003c/a> in Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91896\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/bluefin-tuna-2_enl-808feafef2fcb638e46945e81c26827fd39a25d9-e1420664178117.jpg\" alt=\"The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91896\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The IUCN says the Atlantic bluefin tuna is endangered. Its stocks have declined globally between 29 percent and 51 percent over the past 21 to 39 years, according to the conservation group. Photo: Tono Balaguer/iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And we received an invitation in October from Jaleo, one of celebrity chef Jose Andres' Spanish-themed restaurants in Washington, D.C., for a \"Tuna Celebration\" featuring four dishes with bluefin. (The event was postponed; more on it and Andres later.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's one clear reason why it's still on menus: \"Bluefin tuna belly is one of the most delicious things in the world,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/bruce-mattel/\">Bruce Mattel\u003c/a>, associate dean of food production at the Culinary Institute of America. But, he says, the decision to serve bluefin is \"largely driven by demographics and customer base\" — in other words, chefs beholden to people spending hundreds of dollars on a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs at top restaurants can't really play dumb about how few bluefin are left in the sea, Mattel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think most [chefs] are aware of the conservation issues,\" Mattel tells us. \"I don't know how you cannot be aware if you have a passion for fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One internationally acclaimed chef who's aware — and gravely concerned — is Japanese sushi master Jiro Ono, subject of the 2011 documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/03/16/148737187/cameras-follow-worlds-greatest-sushi-chef\">Jiro Dreams of Sushi\u003c/a> and the chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/306227740/obama-gets-a-taste-of-jiros-dream-sushi-in-name-of-diplomacy\">who prepared sushi \u003c/a>for President Obama during a visit to Japan in April 2014. In November, Ono told the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan: \"I can't imagine at all that sushi in the future will be made of the same materials we use today. I told my young men three years ago sushi materials will totally change in five years. And now, such a trend is becoming a reality little by little.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/jiro-ono-warns-raw-deal-overfishing-article-1.1998645\">According to\u003c/a> the \u003cem>New York Daily News\u003c/em>, Ono was referring to his troubles getting high-quality Pacific bluefin, and having to rely on Atlantic bluefin instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattel of the CIA says he won't order that species of tuna anymore, whether he's dining or cooking. And he's troubled and perplexed by chefs' continued use of it, when there are so many other delicious fish they could be cooking instead. \"When you think about the diversity of the oceans, it just baffles that we're so dependent on this species,\" says Mattel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We asked the chefs at Nobu and Terra in Napa Valley to explain why they still serve it, but we got no response to our calls and emails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After repeated requests for an interview, Jose Andres finally sat down with us to explain why he included bluefin on the menu for his Tuna Celebration. The event was postponed last fall, but Andres says he may still host it in May. It will be focused around\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, a coastal Spanish tradition of carving a whole bluefin tuna in front of an audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I wanted to do was celebrate the way of life of the people in the Mediterranean, show the disappearing way of life, the \u003cem>ronqueo\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em>,\" he says, referring to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhIqzqpE9D8\">elaborate and ancient system of nets\u003c/a> used in small fishing communities. For the celebration, he hopes to bring over fishermen from Galicia, Spain, who catch the fish this way only once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And ultimately, Andres argues, these artisanal fishermen who've been catching Atlantic bluefin their whole lives the same way their grandfathers did, are not to blame for the species' decimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I believe something radical should be done. We should be stopping those [large fishing] fleets following those tunas. If that means also stopping those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> in Spain, Turkey, Italy, I will say so ... but I don't believe those \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> catchers are the problem.\" (After our interview, Andres said he might not serve bluefin at the tuna event, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.biologicaldiversity.org/about/staff/\">Catherine Kilduff\u003c/a>, staff attorney for the Center for Biological Diversity, agrees that the agencies charged with regulating fishing of bluefin haven't set low enough limits for fishermen big or small to allow the populations to recover. And, she says, the fishermen who catch bluefin can still make a lot of money from them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, this is an environmental issue that's been very responsive in the past to economics,\" she says. \"There are still people who want to buy it; that's why the price is so high. The only way to break that loop is to have people say they're valuable in the oceans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, Kilduff says, eating a tuna caught by an artisanal fisherman in a Mediterranean \u003cem>almadraba\u003c/em> isn't any more defensible than eating one caught by a massive Japanese trawler: \"The argument that there's a way to catch them that makes it sustainable is kind of a red herring.\" (This is why some fishermen have decided instead to try and farm bluefin, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/30/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price/\">reported\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while American consumers are not the primary consumers of bluefin, their influence still matters a lot, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Public demand that these fish not go extinct is the only thing that's going to save them,\" says Kilduff. \"Having people go into restaurants [serving it and telling them not to] is probably the most direct way to vote on those issues.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/91895/why-some-chefs-just-cant-quit-serving-bluefin-tuna","authors":["byline_bayareabites_91895"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_14055","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_335","bayareabites_336","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_1956"],"featImg":"bayareabites_91896","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_85339":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_85339","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"85339","score":null,"sort":[1406741728000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price","title":"Farming The Bluefin Tuna, Tiger Of The Ocean, Is Not Without A Price","publishDate":1406741728,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2791px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tunatanks_wide-617dba4e0d254ac55e1e82039b54a962ec7aed2b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tunatanks_wide-617dba4e0d254ac55e1e82039b54a962ec7aed2b.jpg\" alt=\"Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\" width=\"2791\" height=\"1570\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/30/336339179/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/07/20140730_me_farming_the_bluefin_tuna_tiger_of_the_ocean_is_not_without_a_price.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/30/336339179/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/30/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a windowless laboratory in downtown Baltimore, some tiny, translucent fish larvae are swimming about in glass-walled tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are infant bluefin tuna. Scientists in this laboratory are trying to grasp what they call the holy grail of aquaculture: raising this powerful fish, so prized by sushi lovers, entirely in captivity. But the effort is fraught with challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visited, I couldn't see the larvae at first. They look incredibly fragile and helpless, just drifting in the tanks' water currents. But they're already gobbling up microscopic marine animals, which in turn are living on algae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85341\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/larvae-with-prey-infront-a30a1898564436011a182499495aa9ebfa31f9c2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/larvae-with-prey-infront-a30a1898564436011a182499495aa9ebfa31f9c2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Larvae with prey. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathon Zohar\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-85341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larvae with prey. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathon Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's amazing. We cannot stop looking at them! We are here around the clock and we are looking at them, because it is so beautiful,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.umbc.edu/imet/people/zohar.html\">Yonathan Zohar\u003c/a>, the scientist in charge of this project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's beautiful to Zohar because it's so rare. Scientists are trying to raise bluefin tuna completely in captivity in only a few places around the world. Laboratories in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/11/business/energy-environment/japans-delicate-search-for-a-way-to-breed-tuna-on-an-industrial-scale.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">Japan\u003c/a> have led the effort. This experiment, at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's \u003ca href=\"http://marinebiotechnology.umbc.edu/\">Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology\u003c/a>, is the first successful attempt in North America. It's also the first in the world to do it with Atlantic bluefin tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists still have a long way to go to succeed. Most of the larvae have died, but hundreds have now survived for 10 days, \"and we are counting every day,\" says Zohar. \"We want to be at 25 to 30 days. This is the bottleneck. The bottleneck is the first three to four weeks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they make it that far, they'll be juvenile fish and much more sturdy. Then, they'll mainly need lots to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fully grown, the bluefin tuna is a tiger of the ocean: powerful and voracious, its flesh in high demand for sushi all around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://paulgreenberg.org/\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> wrote about bluefin tuna in his book \u003cem>Four Fish\u003c/em>. If you're an angler, he says, catching one is an experience you don't forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When they come onboard, it's like raw energy coming onto the boat. Their tail will [beat] like an outboard motor, just blazing with power and energy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish can grow to 1,000 pounds. They can swim up to 45 miles per hour and cross entire oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85342\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/day-12-with-teeth-f9b9294d12941b2dcb72bd41b2739c1b857fd248.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/day-12-with-teeth-f9b9294d12941b2dcb72bd41b2739c1b857fd248-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A 12-day-old larvae that has developed teeth. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-85342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 12-day-old larvae that has developed teeth. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They're also valuable. Demand for tuna has grown, especially in Japan, where people sometimes pay \u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/bluefin-tuna-sells-for-record-breaking-18-million-2013-1\">fantastic prices\u003c/a> for the fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That demand has led to overfishing, and wild populations of tuna now are declining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why scientists like Zohar are trying to invent a new way to supply the world's demand. They're trying to invent bluefin tuna farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The vision is to have huge tanks, land-based, in a facility like what you see here, having bluefin tuna that are spawning year-round, on demand, producing millions of eggs,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those eggs would hatch and grow into a plentiful supply of tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That brings us back to these precious larvae. Before there can be aquaculture, large quantities of these larvae have to survive. Here in the laboratory, the scientists are tinkering with lots of things — the lights above the tanks, the concentration of algae and water currents — to keep the fragile larvae from sinking toward the bottom of the tank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They tend to go down,\" explains Zohar. \"They have a heavy head. They go head down and tail up. If they hit their head on the bottom they are gone. They are not going to survive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough are surviving, at the moment, that Zohar thinks they're getting close to overcoming this obstacle, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that still leaves a final hurdle. The scientists will need to figure out how to satisfy the tuna's amazing appetite without causing even more damage to the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A tuna's natural diet consists of other fish. Lots of other fish. Right now, there are tuna \"ranches\" that capture young tuna in the ocean and then fatten them up in big net-pens. According to Greenberg, those ranches feed their tuna about 15 pounds of fish such as sardines or mackerel for each additional pound of tuna that can be sold to consumers. That kind of tuna production is environmentally costly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zohar thinks that it will be possible to reduce this ratio or even create tuna feed that doesn't rely heavily on other fish as an ingredient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Greenberg says the basic fact that they eat so much makes him wonder whether tuna farming is really the right way to go. It increases the population of a predator species that demands lots of food itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Why would you domesticate a tiger when you could domesticate a cow,\" he asks — or, even better, a chicken, which converts just 2 pounds of vegetarian feed into a pound of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If farmed tuna really can reduce the demand for tuna caught in the wild, it would be worth doing. But it might do more good, he says, to eat a little lower on the marine food chain. We could eat more mussels or sardines. It would let more tuna roam free. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Scientists are trying to raise prized bluefin tuna completely in captivity. An experiment at a Baltimore university is the first successful attempt in North America.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1406741728,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":955},"headData":{"title":"Farming The Bluefin Tuna, Tiger Of The Ocean, Is Not Without A Price | KQED","description":"Scientists are trying to raise prized bluefin tuna completely in captivity. An experiment at a Baltimore university is the first successful attempt in North America.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"85339 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=85339","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/30/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price/","disqusTitle":"Farming The Bluefin Tuna, Tiger Of The Ocean, Is Not Without A Price","nprByline":"Dan Charles","nprStoryId":"336339179","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=336339179&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/30/336339179/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price?ft=3&f=336339179","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 30 Jul 2014 11:47:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 30 Jul 2014 04:59:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 30 Jul 2014 11:47:40 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/07/20140730_me_farming_the_bluefin_tuna_tiger_of_the_ocean_is_not_without_a_price.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=336339179","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1336468363-9ca63c.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=336339179","path":"/bayareabites/85339/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/07/20140730_me_farming_the_bluefin_tuna_tiger_of_the_ocean_is_not_without_a_price.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2791px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tunatanks_wide-617dba4e0d254ac55e1e82039b54a962ec7aed2b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/tunatanks_wide-617dba4e0d254ac55e1e82039b54a962ec7aed2b.jpg\" alt=\"Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\" width=\"2791\" height=\"1570\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yonathan Zohar, Jorge Gomezjurado and Odi Zmora check on bluefin tuna larvae in tanks at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/30/336339179/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/07/20140730_me_farming_the_bluefin_tuna_tiger_of_the_ocean_is_not_without_a_price.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/30/336339179/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/30/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a windowless laboratory in downtown Baltimore, some tiny, translucent fish larvae are swimming about in glass-walled tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are infant bluefin tuna. Scientists in this laboratory are trying to grasp what they call the holy grail of aquaculture: raising this powerful fish, so prized by sushi lovers, entirely in captivity. But the effort is fraught with challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visited, I couldn't see the larvae at first. They look incredibly fragile and helpless, just drifting in the tanks' water currents. But they're already gobbling up microscopic marine animals, which in turn are living on algae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85341\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/larvae-with-prey-infront-a30a1898564436011a182499495aa9ebfa31f9c2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/larvae-with-prey-infront-a30a1898564436011a182499495aa9ebfa31f9c2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Larvae with prey. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathon Zohar\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-85341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Larvae with prey. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathon Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's amazing. We cannot stop looking at them! We are here around the clock and we are looking at them, because it is so beautiful,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.umbc.edu/imet/people/zohar.html\">Yonathan Zohar\u003c/a>, the scientist in charge of this project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's beautiful to Zohar because it's so rare. Scientists are trying to raise bluefin tuna completely in captivity in only a few places around the world. Laboratories in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/11/business/energy-environment/japans-delicate-search-for-a-way-to-breed-tuna-on-an-industrial-scale.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">Japan\u003c/a> have led the effort. This experiment, at the University of Maryland Baltimore County's \u003ca href=\"http://marinebiotechnology.umbc.edu/\">Institute of Marine and Environmental Technology\u003c/a>, is the first successful attempt in North America. It's also the first in the world to do it with Atlantic bluefin tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists still have a long way to go to succeed. Most of the larvae have died, but hundreds have now survived for 10 days, \"and we are counting every day,\" says Zohar. \"We want to be at 25 to 30 days. This is the bottleneck. The bottleneck is the first three to four weeks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they make it that far, they'll be juvenile fish and much more sturdy. Then, they'll mainly need lots to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fully grown, the bluefin tuna is a tiger of the ocean: powerful and voracious, its flesh in high demand for sushi all around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://paulgreenberg.org/\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> wrote about bluefin tuna in his book \u003cem>Four Fish\u003c/em>. If you're an angler, he says, catching one is an experience you don't forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When they come onboard, it's like raw energy coming onto the boat. Their tail will [beat] like an outboard motor, just blazing with power and energy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish can grow to 1,000 pounds. They can swim up to 45 miles per hour and cross entire oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85342\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/day-12-with-teeth-f9b9294d12941b2dcb72bd41b2739c1b857fd248.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/day-12-with-teeth-f9b9294d12941b2dcb72bd41b2739c1b857fd248-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A 12-day-old larvae that has developed teeth. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-85342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 12-day-old larvae that has developed teeth. Photo: Courtesy of Yonathan Zohar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They're also valuable. Demand for tuna has grown, especially in Japan, where people sometimes pay \u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/bluefin-tuna-sells-for-record-breaking-18-million-2013-1\">fantastic prices\u003c/a> for the fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That demand has led to overfishing, and wild populations of tuna now are declining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why scientists like Zohar are trying to invent a new way to supply the world's demand. They're trying to invent bluefin tuna farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The vision is to have huge tanks, land-based, in a facility like what you see here, having bluefin tuna that are spawning year-round, on demand, producing millions of eggs,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those eggs would hatch and grow into a plentiful supply of tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That brings us back to these precious larvae. Before there can be aquaculture, large quantities of these larvae have to survive. Here in the laboratory, the scientists are tinkering with lots of things — the lights above the tanks, the concentration of algae and water currents — to keep the fragile larvae from sinking toward the bottom of the tank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They tend to go down,\" explains Zohar. \"They have a heavy head. They go head down and tail up. If they hit their head on the bottom they are gone. They are not going to survive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough are surviving, at the moment, that Zohar thinks they're getting close to overcoming this obstacle, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that still leaves a final hurdle. The scientists will need to figure out how to satisfy the tuna's amazing appetite without causing even more damage to the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A tuna's natural diet consists of other fish. Lots of other fish. Right now, there are tuna \"ranches\" that capture young tuna in the ocean and then fatten them up in big net-pens. According to Greenberg, those ranches feed their tuna about 15 pounds of fish such as sardines or mackerel for each additional pound of tuna that can be sold to consumers. That kind of tuna production is environmentally costly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zohar thinks that it will be possible to reduce this ratio or even create tuna feed that doesn't rely heavily on other fish as an ingredient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Greenberg says the basic fact that they eat so much makes him wonder whether tuna farming is really the right way to go. It increases the population of a predator species that demands lots of food itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Why would you domesticate a tiger when you could domesticate a cow,\" he asks — or, even better, a chicken, which converts just 2 pounds of vegetarian feed into a pound of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If farmed tuna really can reduce the demand for tuna caught in the wild, it would be worth doing. But it might do more good, he says, to eat a little lower on the marine food chain. We could eat more mussels or sardines. It would let more tuna roam free. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/85339/farming-the-bluefin-tuna-tiger-of-the-ocean-is-not-without-a-price","authors":["byline_bayareabites_85339"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13635","bayareabites_11270","bayareabites_14756"],"featImg":"bayareabites_85340","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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