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Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"},"alexandrawall":{"type":"authors","id":"5567","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5567","found":true},"name":"Alix Wall","firstName":"Alix","lastName":"Wall","slug":"alexandrawall","email":"alixwall@sbcglobal.net","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Alix Wall appeared in her hometown paper in Riverside, California as “Chef of the Week” when she was 15 years old, and in high school, she founded “The Bon Appetit Club.” After working as a journalist for many years, Alix became a certified natural foods chef from Bauman College in Berkeley. 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You'll usually find her sniffing out great ingredient sources, locating intriguing food stories, inventing recipes and exercising like a demon as an antidote to her passion. This Bay Area native is a longtime food & wine journalist and blogger who has contributed to regional publications such as the San Jose Mercury News and its affiliates, Metro, San Francisco Chronicle, South Bay Accent, Urbanspoon and other epistles that are lucky enough not to have been killed off yet by the publishing crisis.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ea0e2509178d71552ad508c072f4c3ce?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Susan Hathaway | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ea0e2509178d71552ad508c072f4c3ce?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ea0e2509178d71552ad508c072f4c3ce?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/susanhathaway"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_92716":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_92716","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"92716","score":null,"sort":[1424975541000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"powders-and-ferments-galore-a-peek-inside-bar-tartines-project-kitchen","title":"Powders and Ferments Galore: A Peek Inside Bar Tartine's Project Kitchen","publishDate":1424975541,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg\" alt=\"Cortney Burns in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cortney Burns in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cortney Burns and Nicolaus Balla could be considered major fermentation geeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As is evident to anyone who has eaten Bar Tartine's border-crossing food – heavily influenced by Hungary and Japan, but with other culinary influences, too – or seen their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Bar Tartine: Techniques and Recipes\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books) the chefs have exponentially more projects going at any one time than most.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when Bay Area Bites asked for a tour of their pantry, we were thrilled when they said yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In one smaller refrigerator, they keep things that need to be tasted on a regular basis. “We always are tasting to see what’s going on,” said Burns, “we have to see where things are at from one day to the next.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93193\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93193\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Just to give you an idea what’s inside: house-made Asian fish sauce, kimchi made from fiddlehead ferns, fermented almonds, pickled green walnuts, sakes that are being turned into vinegars, several varieties of fermented honeys (fermenting honey gives it a bit of acidity and more complex flavor; honey will ferment above a certain temperature and if it’s above a certain moisture content), coriander seeds and elderberries that are salted and brined like capers – since capers don’t grow locally, they pickle other seeds and berries to make them taste like capers, a two month process – preserved lemons, pepper pastes made from thousands of pounds of Hungarian peppers, blood orange vinegar, three year old umeboshi (Japanese sour) plums (“We did a huge batch three years ago, and haven’t had to do anymore in the past few years,” said Burns), several kinds of miso and koji.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93197\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their miso is house-made, and comes from their house-made koji, which is made by inoculating cooked grains or legumes with a fungus. They always have koji made from several types of grains fermenting at once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pickled green walnuts are made from unripe whole nuts. Once pickled, they become like dry, black olives in texture, with a flavor similar to pickled artichokes. Fermenting them is a several month-long process, in which they are submerged in several types of brine with honey and malt vinegar. In the cookbook, Balla and Burns say they use them in their sweet potato salad, but that they pair well with olives and blue cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were also two sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation, sumac and honey ginger turmeric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg\" alt=\"Sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93509\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-320x480.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They source very few products from far away (ramps, sour cherries and bottarga, or Mediterranean cured fish roe, are a few), but sumac is another; on a visit to Madison, Wis., where Burns went to college, they were at the farmers' market and came upon a farmer selling the fruit, which is most often ground into a sourish powder to spice up Middle Eastern cuisine (fans of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a> books will no doubt have it in their pantry). The farmer shipped some to Bar Tartine, where they soaked the stems and pods in warm water to extract the tannins. Later, they added whey, a byproduct from their house-made yogurt, and apple and pear juice with a bit of honey for sweetness. Fermenting causes natural carbonation to occur, resulting in a refreshingly sour soda. Their honey ginger turmeric soda is made from a probiotic non-dairy kefir (kefir is usually a fermented milk product) made with fresh turmeric grown in Sebastopol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg\" alt=\"House-made honey ginger turmeric and sumac soda. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made honey ginger turmeric and sumac soda. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In another section, there is their house-made farmer cheese, butter from kefir, yogurts and sour creams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Another unusual find:\u003c/strong> carrot caramel, which is made from slow cooking carrots for 12 hours, caramelizing them in honey, which they use for carrot cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving that fridge, we turned the corner into the main part of the kitchen, where Burns was most excited about a jar of their house-made paprika. While they had been drying and dehydrating their own peppers to make the pungent spice for years, they found that nothing they did could match the flavor of paprika from Szeged, a region of Hungary known to have the best. Especially important is the essential oils found in the peppers from the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg\" alt=\"Jar of house-made paprika. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jar of house-made paprika. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some years ago, with help from Balla’s mother and step-father, who were visiting, they deseeded pounds of Hungarian peppers, and gave the seeds to Juston and Mindy Enos of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fulltablefarm.com\" target=\"_blank\">Full Table Farm\u003c/a> in Yountville, who were already growing food for the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, they have locally grown paprika made from peppers in Yountville: “It’s better than the Hungarian stuff we were getting,” Burns said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the various paprika, we were wowed by the various jars of powders. As anyone who has seen the cookbook knows, these chefs take their powders extremely seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93208\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg\" alt=\"Paprikas and other items in pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93208\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various paprikas and other items in pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Several pages are devoted to how they make them, with six pages devoted to the allium family alone. The items are usually dehydrated (timing varies, it depends on what the vegetable is and its water content), and then ground into a powder, which is then sprinkled into a recipe to add layers of flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The allium family includes: charred green onion powder, green onion powder, sweet onion powder, smoked onion powder, black garlic powder, and green garlic powder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They mostly go into soups and stews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Onion powder goes in anything,” said Burns. “It’s a natural way to create sweetness, so if you have a dish that needs a layer of sweet but you don’t want to add honey to it, if it has an allium base, onion powder will layer that sweetness into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They also have burnt bread powder and burnt eggplant powder, as “anything we can burn, we burn, as we’re really into that aroma,” said Burns. “We char all kind of stuff.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yogurt powder gets added onto a wilted kale dish, “it brings in an acidic lactose aroma, and is mainly there for acidity,” Burns explained, while sauerkraut powder functions like salt, but with a built-in hint of acid, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93538\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg\" alt=\"Powders: onion, burnt eggplant, yogurt and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93538\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Powders: onion, burnt eggplant, yogurt and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Other vegetables like mushrooms end up in powdered form as well; parsnip powder is in heavy rotation, due to the fact that the chefs prefer not to use refined sugar in their desserts. Given parsnip’s inherent sweetness, parsnip powder is their go-to to be sprinkled on desserts to add sweetness rather than powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We try to use as little refined sugar as possible,” said Burns. “We’re not about being anti-sugar necessarily, but it doesn’t have as good flavor, and we like working with things that have great flavor.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One section is devoted to flowers and herbs, some of which are used in their teas, and some in their food, like elderflower, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93207\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg\" alt=\"Herbs in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93207\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Herbs in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’re not bringing in loose teas at the moment, and we’re seeing if we can get farmers to grow tea and ferment it,” said Burns. “We haven’t formed any good relationships yet with people where we know the source.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While they try to get almost all their spices grown for them locally, of course they have to rely on a few commodity spices, black pepper and coriander are two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to get someone to grow a pepper tree, but we’d need a field of them with how much we go through,” Burns joked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there is the sprouting section, where a variety of legumes are sprouting, and nuts are soaked to make nut milks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along one wall of the prep area are their multi-gallon plastic fermentation tubs. We saw a melon juice made from water kefir that will eventually be turned into a soda or sauce; kefir cream, which will be turned into butter and used in a sauce; red cabbage kraut and whole green cabbage leaves. We saw a green cabbage kraut with horseradish, and one made from mustard greens. One tub held pickling carrots and radishes, and another held a kraut made from Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg\" alt=\"Fermentation tubs with melon juice and kefir cream, red cabbage kraut and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93511\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fermentation tubs with melon juice and kefir cream, red cabbage kraut and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They generally allow their kraut to sit at room temperature for over a month, though if they get desperate, they’ll serve it before that. “We let it go for as long as can,” said Burns. “I like it after a month or two.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg\" alt=\"Sauerkraut. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93543\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-320x480.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauerkraut. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in another small fridge, we saw jars upon jars of various chile pastes, another condiment they take very seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chile pastes are one of our passions,” said Burns. Again, in the cookbook, a section on pepper pastes features sweet, charred, chipotle and Southeast Asian \u003cem>sambal\u003c/em> styles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peppers are first cooked or smoked and then pureed with salt. After fermenting for over a week at room temperature, they are dried in a dehydrator or low oven for 12 to 16 hours, resulting in a tomato paste-like consistency. Then the paste is pureed, and left to mellow in a refrigerator for at least three months, though it’s even better after six.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93549\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg\" alt=\"Chile pastes. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chile pastes. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While there were jars of preserved lemons and limes on a shelf overhead, we also saw jars of a lime-pickle condiment in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A variation of the South Indian \u003cem>achar\u003c/em> lime pickles, they preserve limes with spices like fresh turmeric, dill, coriander, caraway, chiles, garlic and lime juice, and leave it to ferment for several months. To make the limes into a condiment, which they serve with their whole grilled eggplant or pureed and rubbed on grilled meats, the preserved limes are steamed and then cooked with onions, garlic, chiles and honey until it resembles a paste. That is then refrigerated for up to six months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the very back of the kitchen is the wood-fired oven, where Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery, fires his famous loaves for the restaurant. If only that smell could be bottled or infused into this web page; the photos will have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93206\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg\" alt=\"Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery's bread. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93206\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery's bread. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Up at the bar, we saw a few soju infusions. Bar Tartine does not have a liquor license, but because the Korean spirit soju (made from rice) has less alcohol than traditional spirits, they infuse it themselves to make various cocktails. For example, one is infused with buddha’s hand, a citrus, and another with parsnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg\" alt=\"Cortney Burns at the bar in Bar Tartine. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93188\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cortney Burns at the bar in Bar Tartine. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of their inspiration comes from earlier projects. With the parsnip soju, Burns said “we had parsnip scraps from juicing it, but the scraps still had a lot of flavor, so we thought, ‘what would happen if we put parsnip in soju?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when asked whether they keep a master list of all of their various kitchen projects at Bar Tartine, Burns laughed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Not at all,” she says. “We’re totally not organized, we’re not those people. We’re lucky to get dates written on, we have to remember to put the years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that they’ve been in business four years, it’s not uncommon for them to find a mysterious jar. Knowing what’s in it is usually easy to figure out, but then they ask “What year did we make this?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s this kind of experimentation that keeps the food at Bar Tartine so innovative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if this article has inspired you to get fermenting or powdering, there’s one thing to know before you begin. Many people assume that preserving or fermenting is a great way to use food that is on it’s way out or was not that great to begin with. Big mistake, Burns warns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you don’t start with something delicious, it won’t make it better by fermenting it, so that’s been a good lesson,” she said. “We’ve had to throw away a fair bit. People want to bring us 100 pounds of things, but the first thing we ask is ‘Is it tasty?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetables headed for fermentation can be cosmetically challenged, she said, but they must taste as good as their better looking cousins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while many of these projects may seem way too daunting as well as unrealistically labor-intensive for the home cook, Burns said that many of them are much easier than they look.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">Buy our book!\u003c/a>” Burns said. “The fermentation stuff in there is pretty straightforward. You can do almost all of it in your own kitchen.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg\" alt=\"Bar Tartine's facade. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar Tartine's facade. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pickled Mushrooms\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Used with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">Bar Tartine: Techniques & Recipes\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books, November 2014)\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We see versions of these pickles in Russian markets and in Italian delis. Both types are equally addictive. We make our version with lots of paprika, which gives it a strong Hungarian accent. The draw of this dish is the combination of the savory garlic-laced paste that coats the outside and the sweet-and-sour, almost-creamy-textured inside of the button mushroom. This pickle is great to have on the table with all kinds of meals and with the Liptauer dip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_92851\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled Mushrooms. Photo credit: Chad Robertson\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-92851\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-400x345.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-800x690.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-768x663.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-320x276.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled Mushrooms. Photo credit: Chad Robertson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/2 pt/675 ml\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb/455 g button mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp filtered sunflower or grapeseed oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tsp kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup/60 ml red wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 garlic cloves, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chopped fresh marjoram or 1 tsp dried marjoram\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp sweet paprika, powdered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp sweet onion powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp garlic powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Minced zest of 1 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. In a large roasting pan, combine the mushrooms with 1 tbsp of the oil and 11/2 tsp of the salt and toss to coat. Roast until tender, about 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, parsley, marjoram, paprika, brown sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, lemon zest, pepper, and the remaining 11/2 tsp salt and mix well. Add the warm mushrooms and stir and toss to coat the mushrooms evenly. Chill the mushrooms completely in the refrigerator before serving, about 2 hours. Transfer the mushrooms and brine to one or more nonreactive containers and refrigerate for up to 1 month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Not every restaurant has something called \"The Project Kitchen,\" but San Francisco's Bar Tartine does. Step inside and take a tour, as chef Cortney Burns shows us around.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1425403944,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":52,"wordCount":2545},"headData":{"title":"Powders and Ferments Galore: A Peek Inside Bar Tartine's Project Kitchen | KQED","description":"Not every restaurant has something called "The Project Kitchen," but San Francisco's Bar Tartine does. Step inside and take a tour, as chef Cortney Burns shows us around.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Powders and Ferments Galore: A Peek Inside Bar Tartine's Project Kitchen","datePublished":"2015-02-26T18:32:21.000Z","dateModified":"2015-03-03T17:32:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"92716 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=92716","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/02/26/powders-and-ferments-galore-a-peek-inside-bar-tartines-project-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Powders and Ferments Galore: A Peek Inside Bar Tartine's Project Kitchen","path":"/bayareabites/92716/powders-and-ferments-galore-a-peek-inside-bar-tartines-project-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg\" alt=\"Cortney Burns in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/courtney-pantry4-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cortney Burns in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cortney Burns and Nicolaus Balla could be considered major fermentation geeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As is evident to anyone who has eaten Bar Tartine's border-crossing food – heavily influenced by Hungary and Japan, but with other culinary influences, too – or seen their new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Bar Tartine: Techniques and Recipes\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books) the chefs have exponentially more projects going at any one time than most.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when Bay Area Bites asked for a tour of their pantry, we were thrilled when they said yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In one smaller refrigerator, they keep things that need to be tasted on a regular basis. “We always are tasting to see what’s going on,” said Burns, “we have to see where things are at from one day to the next.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93193\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93193\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Just to give you an idea what’s inside: house-made Asian fish sauce, kimchi made from fiddlehead ferns, fermented almonds, pickled green walnuts, sakes that are being turned into vinegars, several varieties of fermented honeys (fermenting honey gives it a bit of acidity and more complex flavor; honey will ferment above a certain temperature and if it’s above a certain moisture content), coriander seeds and elderberries that are salted and brined like capers – since capers don’t grow locally, they pickle other seeds and berries to make them taste like capers, a two month process – preserved lemons, pepper pastes made from thousands of pounds of Hungarian peppers, blood orange vinegar, three year old umeboshi (Japanese sour) plums (“We did a huge batch three years ago, and haven’t had to do anymore in the past few years,” said Burns), several kinds of miso and koji.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93197\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-horizontal2-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the Bar Tartine refrigerator. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their miso is house-made, and comes from their house-made koji, which is made by inoculating cooked grains or legumes with a fungus. They always have koji made from several types of grains fermenting at once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pickled green walnuts are made from unripe whole nuts. Once pickled, they become like dry, black olives in texture, with a flavor similar to pickled artichokes. Fermenting them is a several month-long process, in which they are submerged in several types of brine with honey and malt vinegar. In the cookbook, Balla and Burns say they use them in their sweet potato salad, but that they pair well with olives and blue cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were also two sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation, sumac and honey ginger turmeric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg\" alt=\"Sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93509\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fridge-soda-320x480.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sodas in their secondary stage of fermentation. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They source very few products from far away (ramps, sour cherries and bottarga, or Mediterranean cured fish roe, are a few), but sumac is another; on a visit to Madison, Wis., where Burns went to college, they were at the farmers' market and came upon a farmer selling the fruit, which is most often ground into a sourish powder to spice up Middle Eastern cuisine (fans of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a> books will no doubt have it in their pantry). The farmer shipped some to Bar Tartine, where they soaked the stems and pods in warm water to extract the tannins. Later, they added whey, a byproduct from their house-made yogurt, and apple and pear juice with a bit of honey for sweetness. Fermenting causes natural carbonation to occur, resulting in a refreshingly sour soda. Their honey ginger turmeric soda is made from a probiotic non-dairy kefir (kefir is usually a fermented milk product) made with fresh turmeric grown in Sebastopol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg\" alt=\"House-made honey ginger turmeric and sumac soda. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sodas-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House-made honey ginger turmeric and sumac soda. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In another section, there is their house-made farmer cheese, butter from kefir, yogurts and sour creams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Another unusual find:\u003c/strong> carrot caramel, which is made from slow cooking carrots for 12 hours, caramelizing them in honey, which they use for carrot cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving that fridge, we turned the corner into the main part of the kitchen, where Burns was most excited about a jar of their house-made paprika. While they had been drying and dehydrating their own peppers to make the pungent spice for years, they found that nothing they did could match the flavor of paprika from Szeged, a region of Hungary known to have the best. Especially important is the essential oils found in the peppers from the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg\" alt=\"Jar of house-made paprika. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/paprika-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jar of house-made paprika. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some years ago, with help from Balla’s mother and step-father, who were visiting, they deseeded pounds of Hungarian peppers, and gave the seeds to Juston and Mindy Enos of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fulltablefarm.com\" target=\"_blank\">Full Table Farm\u003c/a> in Yountville, who were already growing food for the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, they have locally grown paprika made from peppers in Yountville: “It’s better than the Hungarian stuff we were getting,” Burns said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the various paprika, we were wowed by the various jars of powders. As anyone who has seen the cookbook knows, these chefs take their powders extremely seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93208\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg\" alt=\"Paprikas and other items in pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93208\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various paprikas and other items in pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Several pages are devoted to how they make them, with six pages devoted to the allium family alone. The items are usually dehydrated (timing varies, it depends on what the vegetable is and its water content), and then ground into a powder, which is then sprinkled into a recipe to add layers of flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The allium family includes: charred green onion powder, green onion powder, sweet onion powder, smoked onion powder, black garlic powder, and green garlic powder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They mostly go into soups and stews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Onion powder goes in anything,” said Burns. “It’s a natural way to create sweetness, so if you have a dish that needs a layer of sweet but you don’t want to add honey to it, if it has an allium base, onion powder will layer that sweetness into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They also have burnt bread powder and burnt eggplant powder, as “anything we can burn, we burn, as we’re really into that aroma,” said Burns. “We char all kind of stuff.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yogurt powder gets added onto a wilted kale dish, “it brings in an acidic lactose aroma, and is mainly there for acidity,” Burns explained, while sauerkraut powder functions like salt, but with a built-in hint of acid, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93538\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg\" alt=\"Powders: onion, burnt eggplant, yogurt and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93538\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/onion-powders-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Powders: onion, burnt eggplant, yogurt and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Other vegetables like mushrooms end up in powdered form as well; parsnip powder is in heavy rotation, due to the fact that the chefs prefer not to use refined sugar in their desserts. Given parsnip’s inherent sweetness, parsnip powder is their go-to to be sprinkled on desserts to add sweetness rather than powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We try to use as little refined sugar as possible,” said Burns. “We’re not about being anti-sugar necessarily, but it doesn’t have as good flavor, and we like working with things that have great flavor.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One section is devoted to flowers and herbs, some of which are used in their teas, and some in their food, like elderflower, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93207\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg\" alt=\"Herbs in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93207\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/pantry-mugwort-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Herbs in the Bar Tartine pantry. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’re not bringing in loose teas at the moment, and we’re seeing if we can get farmers to grow tea and ferment it,” said Burns. “We haven’t formed any good relationships yet with people where we know the source.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While they try to get almost all their spices grown for them locally, of course they have to rely on a few commodity spices, black pepper and coriander are two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to get someone to grow a pepper tree, but we’d need a field of them with how much we go through,” Burns joked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there is the sprouting section, where a variety of legumes are sprouting, and nuts are soaked to make nut milks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along one wall of the prep area are their multi-gallon plastic fermentation tubs. We saw a melon juice made from water kefir that will eventually be turned into a soda or sauce; kefir cream, which will be turned into butter and used in a sauce; red cabbage kraut and whole green cabbage leaves. We saw a green cabbage kraut with horseradish, and one made from mustard greens. One tub held pickling carrots and radishes, and another held a kraut made from Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg\" alt=\"Fermentation tubs with melon juice and kefir cream, red cabbage kraut and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93511\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/fermenter-containers-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fermentation tubs with melon juice and kefir cream, red cabbage kraut and more. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They generally allow their kraut to sit at room temperature for over a month, though if they get desperate, they’ll serve it before that. “We let it go for as long as can,” said Burns. “I like it after a month or two.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg\" alt=\"Sauerkraut. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93543\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/sauerkraut-320x480.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauerkraut. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in another small fridge, we saw jars upon jars of various chile pastes, another condiment they take very seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chile pastes are one of our passions,” said Burns. Again, in the cookbook, a section on pepper pastes features sweet, charred, chipotle and Southeast Asian \u003cem>sambal\u003c/em> styles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peppers are first cooked or smoked and then pureed with salt. After fermenting for over a week at room temperature, they are dried in a dehydrator or low oven for 12 to 16 hours, resulting in a tomato paste-like consistency. Then the paste is pureed, and left to mellow in a refrigerator for at least three months, though it’s even better after six.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93549\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg\" alt=\"Chile pastes. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/chile-paste-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chile pastes. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While there were jars of preserved lemons and limes on a shelf overhead, we also saw jars of a lime-pickle condiment in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A variation of the South Indian \u003cem>achar\u003c/em> lime pickles, they preserve limes with spices like fresh turmeric, dill, coriander, caraway, chiles, garlic and lime juice, and leave it to ferment for several months. To make the limes into a condiment, which they serve with their whole grilled eggplant or pureed and rubbed on grilled meats, the preserved limes are steamed and then cooked with onions, garlic, chiles and honey until it resembles a paste. That is then refrigerated for up to six months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the very back of the kitchen is the wood-fired oven, where Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery, fires his famous loaves for the restaurant. If only that smell could be bottled or infused into this web page; the photos will have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93206\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg\" alt=\"Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery's bread. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93206\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/bread-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery's bread. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Up at the bar, we saw a few soju infusions. Bar Tartine does not have a liquor license, but because the Korean spirit soju (made from rice) has less alcohol than traditional spirits, they infuse it themselves to make various cocktails. For example, one is infused with buddha’s hand, a citrus, and another with parsnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg\" alt=\"Cortney Burns at the bar in Bar Tartine. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93188\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/cortney-burns1-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cortney Burns at the bar in Bar Tartine. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of their inspiration comes from earlier projects. With the parsnip soju, Burns said “we had parsnip scraps from juicing it, but the scraps still had a lot of flavor, so we thought, ‘what would happen if we put parsnip in soju?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when asked whether they keep a master list of all of their various kitchen projects at Bar Tartine, Burns laughed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Not at all,” she says. “We’re totally not organized, we’re not those people. We’re lucky to get dates written on, we have to remember to put the years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that they’ve been in business four years, it’s not uncommon for them to find a mysterious jar. Knowing what’s in it is usually easy to figure out, but then they ask “What year did we make this?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s this kind of experimentation that keeps the food at Bar Tartine so innovative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if this article has inspired you to get fermenting or powdering, there’s one thing to know before you begin. Many people assume that preserving or fermenting is a great way to use food that is on it’s way out or was not that great to begin with. Big mistake, Burns warns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you don’t start with something delicious, it won’t make it better by fermenting it, so that’s been a good lesson,” she said. “We’ve had to throw away a fair bit. People want to bring us 100 pounds of things, but the first thing we ask is ‘Is it tasty?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetables headed for fermentation can be cosmetically challenged, she said, but they must taste as good as their better looking cousins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while many of these projects may seem way too daunting as well as unrealistically labor-intensive for the home cook, Burns said that many of them are much easier than they look.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">Buy our book!\u003c/a>” Burns said. “The fermentation stuff in there is pretty straightforward. You can do almost all of it in your own kitchen.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg\" alt=\"Bar Tartine's facade. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93557\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/restaurant-front-320x213.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar Tartine's facade. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Pickled Mushrooms\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Used with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Tartine-Techniques-Cortney-Burns/dp/1452126461\" target=\"_blank\">Bar Tartine: Techniques & Recipes\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books, November 2014)\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We see versions of these pickles in Russian markets and in Italian delis. Both types are equally addictive. We make our version with lots of paprika, which gives it a strong Hungarian accent. The draw of this dish is the combination of the savory garlic-laced paste that coats the outside and the sweet-and-sour, almost-creamy-textured inside of the button mushroom. This pickle is great to have on the table with all kinds of meals and with the Liptauer dip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_92851\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled Mushrooms. Photo credit: Chad Robertson\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-92851\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-400x345.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-800x690.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-768x663.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Pickled-Mushrooms1000-320x276.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled Mushrooms. Photo credit: Chad Robertson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/2 pt/675 ml\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb/455 g button mushrooms\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp filtered sunflower or grapeseed oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tsp kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup/60 ml red wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 garlic cloves, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp chopped fresh marjoram or 1 tsp dried marjoram\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp sweet paprika, powdered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp sweet onion powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp garlic powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Minced zest of 1 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. In a large roasting pan, combine the mushrooms with 1 tbsp of the oil and 11/2 tsp of the salt and toss to coat. Roast until tender, about 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, parsley, marjoram, paprika, brown sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, lemon zest, pepper, and the remaining 11/2 tsp salt and mix well. Add the warm mushrooms and stir and toss to coat the mushrooms evenly. Chill the mushrooms completely in the refrigerator before serving, about 2 hours. Transfer the mushrooms and brine to one or more nonreactive containers and refrigerate for up to 1 month.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/92716/powders-and-ferments-galore-a-peek-inside-bar-tartines-project-kitchen","authors":["5567"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_3952","bayareabites_14148","bayareabites_12368","bayareabites_14149"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93202","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_91045":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_91045","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"91045","score":null,"sort":[1420242874000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"kendra-bakers-new-santa-cruz-food-empire-gaining-fans","title":"Kendra Baker's New Santa Cruz Food Empire Gaining Fans","publishDate":1420242874,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91052\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach.jpg\" alt=\"Former Bar Tartine and Manresa pastry chef Kendra Baker joined with business brain Zach Davis to launch a bustling food dominion on the coast. Photo: CJ Nugent\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91052\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Former Bar Tartine and Manresa pastry chef Kendra Baker joined with business brain Zach Davis to launch a bustling food dominion on the coast. Photo: CJ Nugent\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Looking past the saltwater taffy, snow cones and deep-fried Twinkies that some visitors might characterize as \u003ca href=\"http://beachboardwalk.com/food/\" target=\"_blank\">cuisine\u003c/a> in the laid-back beach town of \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzca.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, a food revolution is taking place. In the last few years, talented chefs have been busily opening new eateries and the restaurant scene \"over the hill,\" as valley residents call it, is as exciting as it's ever been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While guests are atwitter over all the great new eating in Santa Cruz these days, the clear leader is the now-multi-location empire of heralded pastry chef Kendra Baker, whose resume includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Manresa\u003c/a>. In just four years, Baker and her business partner, Zachary Davis, have opened three ice cream shops, a beachside lunch cafe, a serious sit-down restaurant and a pop-up space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the fact that 60% of \u003ca href=\"http://online.csp.edu/blog/business/why-do-90-of-restaurants-fail-in-the-first-year\" target=\"_blank\">new restaurants fail in the first year\u003c/a>, it's clear that Baker and Davis are doing something right. Their restaurant group, the \u003ca href=\"http://theglassjar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Glass Jar\u003c/a>, now has about 120 employees and an uncompromising vision of matching top-notch cooking using local organic ingredients with the unique, funky gestalt of Surf City. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two-star Michelin chef \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Kinch\" target=\"_blank\">David Kinch\u003c/a> of Manresa in Los Gatos -- Baker's previous boss -- pegged it when he called her \"obsessive,\" adding that this is a common characteristic found in many successful people. He has also called her \"smart, hardworking and ambitious.\" This might well be the combination needed to buck the odds in a tough industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91053\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_cracking_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_cracking_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Baker is a pastry whiz, where her creations at Bar Tartine and Manresa have garnered praise and happy tummies. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1501\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baker is a pastry whiz, where her creations at Bar Tartine and Manresa have garnered praise and happy tummies.\u003cbr>Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Baker took an interesting route to where she sits today. Growing up in Sacramento, she regularly vacationed in Santa Cruz as a child and later attended the town's \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucsc.edu/\" target=\"_blank\">University of California\u003c/a> campus. She had no interest in food then -- her original major was chemistry -- until discovering \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/about/facilities.html\" target=\"_blank\">UCSC's 30-acre gardens\u003c/a>, a renowned agricultural research and training center. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>”I got excited about growing your own food and about all the amazing work they were doing,\" she says. \"That was really inspiring to me. As a result, I thought food was this thing that bound communities together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During college, she started working in a local restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://gabriellacafe.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Gabriella Cafe\u003c/a>, that was serious about organic ingredients, then took a cooking job there after graduation. Next up was culinary school -- \u003ca href=\"http://academics.jwu.edu/college-of-culinary-arts/\" target=\"_blank\">Johnson & Wales\u003c/a> in Rhode Island -- and some European training, where an internship in France with a pastry chef opened her eyes again. \"It's an incredible medium,\" she says about pastry. \"I love the whimsy I can create in my pastry desserts but I also like the control and fine details.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working her way west, she cooked in Boston, then became the opening chef at Bar Tartine in San Francisco's Mission district, an instant hit. Later, she was plucked by Kinch to head up the pastry program at Manresa, where she and her desserts received accolades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But percolating in her head was launching her own venture, working with longtime friend Davis, who had recently completed a green MBA program to complement work in technology and other businesses. While the two share an itch for achievement with good conscience, the most fortuitous aspect of their pairing is Baker's culinary prowess combined with Davis's solid business skills. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their intention wasn't just to launch a food business but to locate it in a family-friendly place that would accommodate other goals. \"There were so many reasons why that was Santa Cruz,\" Baker explains. \"It's an incredible place. We have the mountains and the ocean for personal pleasure. And it's an excellent place to raise our families. On the culinary side, the bounty of \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzchamber.org/cwt/external/wcpages/facts/agriculture.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">agriculture\u003c/a> that's available to us here is unbelievable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach_Penny.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach_Penny.jpg\" alt=\"The first food business the partners opened was an ice cream parlor where everything -- even the ripples and add-ins -- is made from scratch. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91051\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The first food business the partners opened was an ice cream parlor where everything -- even the ripples and add-ins -- is made from scratch. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their timing didn't hurt, either. In 2010, when they embarked, \"We recognized that Santa Cruz was ripe for businesses like ours,\" Baker explains. \"We have a demographic here that really appreciates great food and supports our local farmers through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org/\" target=\"_blank\">farmers markets\u003c/a> and wants good food for their families and themselves. There was a little bit of a void -- at least, not enough of this kind of food. So we recognized that there was definitely potential here for our businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They wrote a 70-page business plan for an ice cream shop that they called the \u003ca href=\"http://thepennyicecreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Penny Ice Creamery\u003c/a>. This is no ordinary \"gourmet\" gelato store; they applied for and received a pasteurization license so they could make their own custard base. Other ice cream shops typically use a purchased base. All ripples, add-ins and the like are house-made. Cones are baked one at a time and hand rolled. Ingredients are as organic, local and sublime as they can find. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their cute downtown scoop shop offers nine flavors at a time, including classics along with a rotating list of luscious seasonal choices like brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Customers can get a cap of toasted, house-made marshmallow fluff if they desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91054\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_hand_rolled_cones.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_hand_rolled_cones.jpg\" alt=\"Not only does the Penny Ice Creamery make its own custard base but the cones are individually hand rolled and baked on site. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91054\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not only does the Penny Ice Creamery make its own custard base but the cones are individually hand rolled and baked on site. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given such attention to quality and detail, \"the Penny,\" as Baker calls it, proudly identifies itself as “the only ice cream shop in Northern California making all our ice cream completely from scratch.” Shortly before the shop opened, Baker and Davis each became new parents -- their respective sons were born two weeks apart -- then they started working 100-hour weeks as their business geared up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A key aspect that made the Penny possible was a $250,000 loan obtained through \u003ca href=\"http://www.allbusiness.com/government/government-bodies-offices-government/11820858-1.html\" target=\"_blank\">Obama's SBA Recovery Act\u003c/a>. To show their appreciation, Baker and Davis made a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmWjlA9FlAo&feature=player_embedded\" target=\"_blank\">YouTube thank-you video\u003c/a> receiving more than 100,000 hits, which got the attention of Joe Biden (he called them) and Michelle Obama's office (inviting them to a State of the Union address and reception). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baker and Davis only spent enough time in the capitol to sit in the First Lady's box and meet some dignitaries, then flew back to scoop ice cream. Not surprising, since the Penny's business was going gangbusters. Far exceeding projections, the explosive sales enabled two more scoop shops to be opened in Santa Cruz as well as new kiosks at local farmers markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_scoop.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Among a slew of delectable flavors are brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91055\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among a slew of delectable flavors are brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2011, the partners opened a super-casual beachfront cafe that they called \u003ca href=\"http://thepicnicbasketsc.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Picnic Basket\u003c/a> that followed the same freshness-first mentality of their ice cream stores. Sandwiches and salads are inventive, delicious and available for eating in or out. House-made pickles and just-baked bread enhance classics like a killer BLT or reuben, while the chicken salad sandwich with avocado, greens and pickled onions is amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naturally, corned beef and hot dogs come from renowned local butcher and salumi maker, \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsalchichero.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Salchichero\u003c/a>, and ice cream is from the Penny. A long deck in front delivers views of the beach and nearby pier. The crowds were large from the moment this eating spot opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Picnic_Basket_Exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Picnic_Basket_Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Located across from the beach, The Picnic Basket has become the town's go-to place for sandwiches, salads and snacks. Photo: Zachary Davis\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located across from the beach, the Picnic Basket has become the town's go-to place for sandwiches, salads and snacks. Photo: Zachary Davis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pair's most ambitious step took place in early 2014 with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://assembleforfood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Assembly\u003c/a> in downtown Santa Cruz. A spacious, modern sit-down restaurant that celebrates local ingredients in a deceptively rustic menu -- like chicken leg confit with merquez sausage, carrot-lentil puree and artichoke/green olive relish -- this eatery was also mobbed from the day it opened. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Assembly, Baker works with executive chef Carlo Espinas, formerly of Comstock Saloon in San Francisco, to produce comforting, affordable fare with enough pizzazz to attract foodies. Communal tables encourage the neighborly vibe that Baker has been seeking since she was first enthralled with the gardens at UCSC. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Assembly has been smiled upon by critics like the San Francisco Chronicle's Michael Bauer. Regarding The Picnic Basket, he wrote: \"For my money, it's the only place to stop.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91049\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_interior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_interior.jpg\" alt=\"This modern, sit-down restaurant features rustic, fresh cuisine and several communal tables. Photo: Nicole Nelson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91049\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This modern, sit-down restaurant features rustic, fresh cuisine and several communal tables. Photo: Nicole Nelson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Baker's and Davis's youngest venture is \u003ca href=\"http://heypopup.com/\" target=\"_blank\">POPUP\u003c/a>, a space adjacent to Assembly whose charter is showcasing intriguing, emerging food businesses that deserve local discovery. Besides being a weekly source for the wondrous bread and pastries from the \u003ca href=\"http://manresarestaurant.blogspot.com/2013/03/manresa-bread-project.html\" target=\"_blank\">Manresa Bread Project\u003c/a>, POPUP has presented scrumptious pies from \u003ca href=\"http://companionbakeshop.com/%20\" target=\"_blank\">Companion Bakeshop\u003c/a> (think Meyer lemon buttermilk) and delicious, small-batch steam buns and other snacks from \u003ca href=\"http://mortaldumpling.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mortal Dumpling\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While shooting for multiple Michelin stars might be the egotistical objective of some new chefs when they open their own boîte, this is not in Baker's business plan. \"We have foodies in this community but we also have people who just want to eat,\" she explains. \"We want to create a place where people feel comfortable and where it's not like a '\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portlandia_%28TV_series%29\" target=\"_blank\">Portlandia\u003c/a>' skit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91050\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_Sidewalk.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_Sidewalk.jpg\" alt=\"Located in downtown Santa Cruz, Assembly serves food throughout the day and has moderate prices. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in downtown Santa Cruz, Assembly serves food throughout the day and has moderate prices. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All their businesses aim to please the cross section of people that make up just about any community, she says. \"We made a conscious decision to balance our menu with things that are known and comfortable and accessible with things that are out there. For example, in the ice cream shop, we always have our Tahitian vanilla bean and our chocolate sorbet, but then we'll throw something like candy cap mushroom in the case or strawberry pink peppercorn.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a chef who proudly states that \"I don't do precious,\" the various enterprises within The Glass Jar would seem to be a success. Baker's role these days might be overseeing menu development while Davis handles business as CEO but this is just one element in the overall game plan that brought them to Santa Cruz and business ownership. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With their families, Baker and Davis have put down roots in the coastal town. Davis now has three young children and Baker just gave birth to another baby. In a business empire dedicated to celebrating food and community, they haven't forgotten that all-important second element.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"There's more than surf up these days in coastside Santa Cruz, where pastry chef Kendra Baker and business partner Zach Davis have launched no less than six successful food outposts since 2010. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1420326101,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1785},"headData":{"title":"Kendra Baker's New Santa Cruz Food Empire Gaining Fans | KQED","description":"There's more than surf up these days in coastside Santa Cruz, where pastry chef Kendra Baker and business partner Zach Davis have launched no less than six successful food outposts since 2010. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Kendra Baker's New Santa Cruz Food Empire Gaining Fans","datePublished":"2015-01-02T23:54:34.000Z","dateModified":"2015-01-03T23:01:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"91045 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=91045","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/02/kendra-bakers-new-santa-cruz-food-empire-gaining-fans/","disqusTitle":"Kendra Baker's New Santa Cruz Food Empire Gaining Fans","path":"/bayareabites/91045/kendra-bakers-new-santa-cruz-food-empire-gaining-fans","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91052\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach.jpg\" alt=\"Former Bar Tartine and Manresa pastry chef Kendra Baker joined with business brain Zach Davis to launch a bustling food dominion on the coast. Photo: CJ Nugent\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91052\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Former Bar Tartine and Manresa pastry chef Kendra Baker joined with business brain Zach Davis to launch a bustling food dominion on the coast. Photo: CJ Nugent\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Looking past the saltwater taffy, snow cones and deep-fried Twinkies that some visitors might characterize as \u003ca href=\"http://beachboardwalk.com/food/\" target=\"_blank\">cuisine\u003c/a> in the laid-back beach town of \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzca.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, a food revolution is taking place. In the last few years, talented chefs have been busily opening new eateries and the restaurant scene \"over the hill,\" as valley residents call it, is as exciting as it's ever been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While guests are atwitter over all the great new eating in Santa Cruz these days, the clear leader is the now-multi-location empire of heralded pastry chef Kendra Baker, whose resume includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Manresa\u003c/a>. In just four years, Baker and her business partner, Zachary Davis, have opened three ice cream shops, a beachside lunch cafe, a serious sit-down restaurant and a pop-up space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the fact that 60% of \u003ca href=\"http://online.csp.edu/blog/business/why-do-90-of-restaurants-fail-in-the-first-year\" target=\"_blank\">new restaurants fail in the first year\u003c/a>, it's clear that Baker and Davis are doing something right. Their restaurant group, the \u003ca href=\"http://theglassjar.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Glass Jar\u003c/a>, now has about 120 employees and an uncompromising vision of matching top-notch cooking using local organic ingredients with the unique, funky gestalt of Surf City. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two-star Michelin chef \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Kinch\" target=\"_blank\">David Kinch\u003c/a> of Manresa in Los Gatos -- Baker's previous boss -- pegged it when he called her \"obsessive,\" adding that this is a common characteristic found in many successful people. He has also called her \"smart, hardworking and ambitious.\" This might well be the combination needed to buck the odds in a tough industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91053\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_cracking_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_cracking_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Baker is a pastry whiz, where her creations at Bar Tartine and Manresa have garnered praise and happy tummies. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1501\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91053\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baker is a pastry whiz, where her creations at Bar Tartine and Manresa have garnered praise and happy tummies.\u003cbr>Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Baker took an interesting route to where she sits today. Growing up in Sacramento, she regularly vacationed in Santa Cruz as a child and later attended the town's \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucsc.edu/\" target=\"_blank\">University of California\u003c/a> campus. She had no interest in food then -- her original major was chemistry -- until discovering \u003ca href=\"http://casfs.ucsc.edu/about/facilities.html\" target=\"_blank\">UCSC's 30-acre gardens\u003c/a>, a renowned agricultural research and training center. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>”I got excited about growing your own food and about all the amazing work they were doing,\" she says. \"That was really inspiring to me. As a result, I thought food was this thing that bound communities together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During college, she started working in a local restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://gabriellacafe.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Gabriella Cafe\u003c/a>, that was serious about organic ingredients, then took a cooking job there after graduation. Next up was culinary school -- \u003ca href=\"http://academics.jwu.edu/college-of-culinary-arts/\" target=\"_blank\">Johnson & Wales\u003c/a> in Rhode Island -- and some European training, where an internship in France with a pastry chef opened her eyes again. \"It's an incredible medium,\" she says about pastry. \"I love the whimsy I can create in my pastry desserts but I also like the control and fine details.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working her way west, she cooked in Boston, then became the opening chef at Bar Tartine in San Francisco's Mission district, an instant hit. Later, she was plucked by Kinch to head up the pastry program at Manresa, where she and her desserts received accolades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But percolating in her head was launching her own venture, working with longtime friend Davis, who had recently completed a green MBA program to complement work in technology and other businesses. While the two share an itch for achievement with good conscience, the most fortuitous aspect of their pairing is Baker's culinary prowess combined with Davis's solid business skills. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their intention wasn't just to launch a food business but to locate it in a family-friendly place that would accommodate other goals. \"There were so many reasons why that was Santa Cruz,\" Baker explains. \"It's an incredible place. We have the mountains and the ocean for personal pleasure. And it's an excellent place to raise our families. On the culinary side, the bounty of \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzchamber.org/cwt/external/wcpages/facts/agriculture.aspx\" target=\"_blank\">agriculture\u003c/a> that's available to us here is unbelievable.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach_Penny.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Kendra_and_Zach_Penny.jpg\" alt=\"The first food business the partners opened was an ice cream parlor where everything -- even the ripples and add-ins -- is made from scratch. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91051\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The first food business the partners opened was an ice cream parlor where everything -- even the ripples and add-ins -- is made from scratch. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Their timing didn't hurt, either. In 2010, when they embarked, \"We recognized that Santa Cruz was ripe for businesses like ours,\" Baker explains. \"We have a demographic here that really appreciates great food and supports our local farmers through the \u003ca href=\"http://www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org/\" target=\"_blank\">farmers markets\u003c/a> and wants good food for their families and themselves. There was a little bit of a void -- at least, not enough of this kind of food. So we recognized that there was definitely potential here for our businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They wrote a 70-page business plan for an ice cream shop that they called the \u003ca href=\"http://thepennyicecreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Penny Ice Creamery\u003c/a>. This is no ordinary \"gourmet\" gelato store; they applied for and received a pasteurization license so they could make their own custard base. Other ice cream shops typically use a purchased base. All ripples, add-ins and the like are house-made. Cones are baked one at a time and hand rolled. Ingredients are as organic, local and sublime as they can find. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their cute downtown scoop shop offers nine flavors at a time, including classics along with a rotating list of luscious seasonal choices like brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Customers can get a cap of toasted, house-made marshmallow fluff if they desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91054\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_hand_rolled_cones.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_hand_rolled_cones.jpg\" alt=\"Not only does the Penny Ice Creamery make its own custard base but the cones are individually hand rolled and baked on site. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91054\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not only does the Penny Ice Creamery make its own custard base but the cones are individually hand rolled and baked on site. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Given such attention to quality and detail, \"the Penny,\" as Baker calls it, proudly identifies itself as “the only ice cream shop in Northern California making all our ice cream completely from scratch.” Shortly before the shop opened, Baker and Davis each became new parents -- their respective sons were born two weeks apart -- then they started working 100-hour weeks as their business geared up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A key aspect that made the Penny possible was a $250,000 loan obtained through \u003ca href=\"http://www.allbusiness.com/government/government-bodies-offices-government/11820858-1.html\" target=\"_blank\">Obama's SBA Recovery Act\u003c/a>. To show their appreciation, Baker and Davis made a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmWjlA9FlAo&feature=player_embedded\" target=\"_blank\">YouTube thank-you video\u003c/a> receiving more than 100,000 hits, which got the attention of Joe Biden (he called them) and Michelle Obama's office (inviting them to a State of the Union address and reception). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baker and Davis only spent enough time in the capitol to sit in the First Lady's box and meet some dignitaries, then flew back to scoop ice cream. Not surprising, since the Penny's business was going gangbusters. Far exceeding projections, the explosive sales enabled two more scoop shops to be opened in Santa Cruz as well as new kiosks at local farmers markets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_scoop.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Penny_scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Among a slew of delectable flavors are brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91055\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among a slew of delectable flavors are brown-butter spiced pumpkin seed, black pepper quince and honey yogurt walnut jam. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2011, the partners opened a super-casual beachfront cafe that they called \u003ca href=\"http://thepicnicbasketsc.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Picnic Basket\u003c/a> that followed the same freshness-first mentality of their ice cream stores. Sandwiches and salads are inventive, delicious and available for eating in or out. House-made pickles and just-baked bread enhance classics like a killer BLT or reuben, while the chicken salad sandwich with avocado, greens and pickled onions is amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naturally, corned beef and hot dogs come from renowned local butcher and salumi maker, \u003ca href=\"http://www.elsalchichero.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Salchichero\u003c/a>, and ice cream is from the Penny. A long deck in front delivers views of the beach and nearby pier. The crowds were large from the moment this eating spot opened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Picnic_Basket_Exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Picnic_Basket_Exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Located across from the beach, The Picnic Basket has become the town's go-to place for sandwiches, salads and snacks. Photo: Zachary Davis\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located across from the beach, the Picnic Basket has become the town's go-to place for sandwiches, salads and snacks. Photo: Zachary Davis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pair's most ambitious step took place in early 2014 with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://assembleforfood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Assembly\u003c/a> in downtown Santa Cruz. A spacious, modern sit-down restaurant that celebrates local ingredients in a deceptively rustic menu -- like chicken leg confit with merquez sausage, carrot-lentil puree and artichoke/green olive relish -- this eatery was also mobbed from the day it opened. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Assembly, Baker works with executive chef Carlo Espinas, formerly of Comstock Saloon in San Francisco, to produce comforting, affordable fare with enough pizzazz to attract foodies. Communal tables encourage the neighborly vibe that Baker has been seeking since she was first enthralled with the gardens at UCSC. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Assembly has been smiled upon by critics like the San Francisco Chronicle's Michael Bauer. Regarding The Picnic Basket, he wrote: \"For my money, it's the only place to stop.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91049\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_interior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_interior.jpg\" alt=\"This modern, sit-down restaurant features rustic, fresh cuisine and several communal tables. Photo: Nicole Nelson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91049\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This modern, sit-down restaurant features rustic, fresh cuisine and several communal tables. Photo: Nicole Nelson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Baker's and Davis's youngest venture is \u003ca href=\"http://heypopup.com/\" target=\"_blank\">POPUP\u003c/a>, a space adjacent to Assembly whose charter is showcasing intriguing, emerging food businesses that deserve local discovery. Besides being a weekly source for the wondrous bread and pastries from the \u003ca href=\"http://manresarestaurant.blogspot.com/2013/03/manresa-bread-project.html\" target=\"_blank\">Manresa Bread Project\u003c/a>, POPUP has presented scrumptious pies from \u003ca href=\"http://companionbakeshop.com/%20\" target=\"_blank\">Companion Bakeshop\u003c/a> (think Meyer lemon buttermilk) and delicious, small-batch steam buns and other snacks from \u003ca href=\"http://mortaldumpling.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Mortal Dumpling\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While shooting for multiple Michelin stars might be the egotistical objective of some new chefs when they open their own boîte, this is not in Baker's business plan. \"We have foodies in this community but we also have people who just want to eat,\" she explains. \"We want to create a place where people feel comfortable and where it's not like a '\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portlandia_%28TV_series%29\" target=\"_blank\">Portlandia\u003c/a>' skit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91050\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_Sidewalk.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/Assembly_Sidewalk.jpg\" alt=\"Located in downtown Santa Cruz, Assembly serves food throughout the day and has moderate prices. Photo: Molly Watson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91050\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in downtown Santa Cruz, Assembly serves food throughout the day and has moderate prices. Photo: Molly Watson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All their businesses aim to please the cross section of people that make up just about any community, she says. \"We made a conscious decision to balance our menu with things that are known and comfortable and accessible with things that are out there. For example, in the ice cream shop, we always have our Tahitian vanilla bean and our chocolate sorbet, but then we'll throw something like candy cap mushroom in the case or strawberry pink peppercorn.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a chef who proudly states that \"I don't do precious,\" the various enterprises within The Glass Jar would seem to be a success. Baker's role these days might be overseeing menu development while Davis handles business as CEO but this is just one element in the overall game plan that brought them to Santa Cruz and business ownership. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With their families, Baker and Davis have put down roots in the coastal town. Davis now has three young children and Baker just gave birth to another baby. In a business empire dedicated to celebrating food and community, they haven't forgotten that all-important second element.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/91045/kendra-bakers-new-santa-cruz-food-empire-gaining-fans","authors":["5578"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_14044","bayareabites_3952","bayareabites_2763","bayareabites_14039","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_14041","bayareabites_14040","bayareabites_8979","bayareabites_14042","bayareabites_141","bayareabites_14043","bayareabites_14045"],"featImg":"bayareabites_91051","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_64163":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64163","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64163","score":null,"sort":[1373302155000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"louisa-shafia-taps-family-ties-in-the-new-persian-kitchen","title":"Louisa Shafia Taps Family Ties in The New Persian Kitchen","publishDate":1373302155,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64741\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/Louisa-Shafia700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/Louisa-Shafia700.jpg\" alt=\"For her latest cookbook, Louisa Shafia learned recipes from extended family in L.A. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64741\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For her latest cookbook, Louisa Shafia learned recipes from extended family. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Louisa Shafia is a poster child for the American melting pot. Shafia's Persian father came from a Muslim family in Iran, and her Ashkenazi Jewish mother grew up in Philadelphia. She had a Catholic nanny and attended Quaker school. As a child, Shafia, who has never been to Iran, also had a soft spot for the dishes from her dad's culture, though at the time she didn't think of those recipes as Persian food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little wonder then that as a chef Shafia is comfortable playing with pomegranates and seasoning with sumac. But it hasn't always been so. Shafia, author of the lovely eco-conscious cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://lucidfood.com/\">Lucid Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, has a predisposition for produce-centric cooking, and has dabbled in \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Road\">Silk Road\u003c/a>-recipes in the past. But in her latest cookbook, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/1607743574?tag=food52-20\">The New Persian Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Shafia immerses herself in the cuisine of her father's family, in dishes dotted with classic Middle Eastern ingredients like pistachios, saffron, tamarind, dried limes, and rosewater. Persian food turns out to be a good fit for Shafia's wholesome style of cooking, the cookbook also features whole grains, quinoa, and tempeh and loads of vegetarian options. The book is as much about her modern American sensibility as a cook as it is a mash note to the ancient Iranian food of her roots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During an extended stay in San Francisco that included \u003ca href=\"http://lucidfood.com/2013/05/12/two-nights-two-incredible-book-dinners-thank-you-san-francisco/\">events\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zare at Fly Trap\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, the New York-based Shafia, 43, who has cooked in restaurants on both coasts and calls San Francisco her spiritual home, spoke with BAB about her new book and shared a recipe too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/1607743574?tag=food52-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/New-Persian-cover700.jpg\" title=\"The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia\" alt=\"The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-64736\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How would you describe Persian food for the uninitiated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Persian food is a really interesting mix of different Silk Road influences as well as its own native thing. There are a lot of native fruits and vegetables in Iran--pomegranates, citrus fruit, dates, are some of the iconic ingredients--and then there are influences from Russia, China, India, Eastern Europe and the Arabic world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are lots of spices in Persian cuisine, but there are no chile peppers in Persian cooking, with the exception of way down south near the Persian Gulf, so while there's a lot of seasoning in this cuisine there isn't spiciness to the food. You'll find things like turmeric, saffron, dried limes, rose petals, tamarind, pomegranate molasses, Angelica powder, and fenugreek, these are all interesting flavors unique to that part of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who cooked Persian food for you growing up?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly my mother: Like most Iranian men back then, my dad didn't really cook, although he has one signature dish, which is rice with lentils or \u003cem>adas polo\u003c/em>. My mom is an amazing cook, when I was at home she was really into Julia Child and took Chinese cooking classes. She made Persian food occasionally and it was always delicious. One of the favorite meals of my childhood was \u003cem> bademjan\u003c/em>, which is eggplant and tomato stew spiced with pomegranate molasses. That's in the book. Lamb kebabs, fluffy saffron rice, yogurt with cucumber and mint, are all foods I grew up eating. Once in a while my mother made \u003cem>fesenjan\u003c/em>, a special occasion, sweet-and-sour dish. It's a classic Iranian stew, known as \u003cem>khoresh\u003c/em>, and it forms the center of a Persian meal. There's a magical combination of rich ground walnuts, tart pomegranate syrup, cinnamon, and saffron simmered with seared chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about Persian food while writing this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't really know the whole underlying philosophy around Persian cooking, which is that there are energetically hot foods and cold foods. It's not that different from the Ayurvedic tradition of earth, ether, air, fire, and water or traditional Chinese designations of yin and yang, which makes sense, because they're all on the Silk Road, so I'm sure they all exchanged ideas. Take a kebab sprinkled with sumac and served with rice, raw onion, and a yogurt drink. Onions have antibacterial properties and sumac and yogurt aid in digestion. So the ingredients are selected to help the body digest hunks of rich protein. Here, meat and onions would be considered \"hot\" and sumac, yogurt, and rice are classified as \"cold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had never worked with dried limes and they are offer a wonderful, bitter-sweet, intense citrus essence, which imparts a concentrated flavor. I have a dried lime tea in the book. I love to eat them. Some people put them aside after they're cooked but I find them a really nice counterpoint to some of the rich flavors in the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really learned about saffron. I didn't even know that the traditional way to prepare saffron in Iran is to grind it and then steep it in a little hot liquid for as long as you can before cooking it. It releases flavor and intensifies the color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/sweet-rice700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/sweet-rice700.jpg\" alt=\"Rice-based dishes, like this Sweet Rice with Carrots and Nuts, feature in The New Persian Kitchen. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice-based dishes, like this Sweet Rice with Carrots and Nuts, feature in The New Persian Kitchen. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about rice? Was there a lot to learn there, too?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, there's a very specific approach to making rice in Iran. You take white, Basmati rice, soak it in cold water for about an hour to remove the starch, then par boil it in very salty water, drain it and shock it. Next, you heat a pan, put in a decent amount of cooking fat, prepare a bottom layer with that par-boiled rice, then pile the rest of the rice in a pyramid shape, and poke holes in it to air it. Cover, turn it on high for ten minutes, and then turn it on very, very low for about an hour. What that does is it creates two different dishes in one pot: On the top you have beautiful, fluffy, white rice where all the grains are separated. Then on the bottom you have \u003cem>tahdig\u003c/em>--it's the Iranian soul food--if you've done it right you should have a crisp, golden layer of crunchy rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was it a conscious decision to use the word Persian rather than Iranian in the book's title?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It never occurred to me to have Iran in the title. I've always thought of the food and the culture as Persian because that's how we know it in the Western world and that's what I grew up hearing. And, of course, Iran has immediate negative connotations for many people in the U.S. When my father left Iran he never went back and never saw his parents, who lived in Tehran, again. He moved here, attempted to Anglicize his name, and if people asked he said he was German, which was silly because he does not look German. My dad didn't want to be identified with Iran. This was during the time of the Iranian Revolution, when there were American hostages. It was a different time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as I've been touring around the country and talking about the book I've actually become much more comfortable substituting the word Iranian for Persian half the time. Now I use them both interchangeably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has your own cooking changed since working on this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I use dried limes and dried mint all the time. I put dried mint in soups and season grains with it. I make dried lime tea and put dried limes in stews and rice. And sumac is one of those things that's now on my table like salt and pepper. I think of it as a combination of lemon juice and MSG, in that it sets off the flavors of other food. I put it in salad, it's an excellent meat tenderizer, and it's great on grilled fish or chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you know about Persian cuisine in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a huge fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zare at FlyTrap\u003c/a>. I admire what Chef Hoss does there: He takes Persian food and flavors and does something innovative with them. He incorporates elements of California cuisine and classic French cuisine, and takes these beautiful traditionally Persian ingredients that most people aren't cooking with and shows them off. I did a lot of lunch-time signings on the peninsular and Persian people I met there recommended \u003ca href=\"http://www.shalizaar.com/\">Shalizaar\u003c/a> in Belmont, for dependable Persian food. In the city people also like \u003ca href=\"http://www.maykadehrestaurant.com/\">Maykadeh\u003c/a> in North Beach. I've enjoyed the food there in the past. And the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rosemarketcatering.com/\">Rose International Market\u003c/a> in Mountain View, which is a grocery store, has a cafe that people say sells amazing shish kebab. It's on my list to try next trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/turmeric-chicken700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/turmeric-chicken700.jpg\" alt=\"A chicken recipe that's simple and quick to prepare--and packs a lot of flavor. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64740\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicken recipe that's simple and quick to prepare--and packs a lot of flavor. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Turmeric Chicken with Sumac and Lime\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003cbr>\nSea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n4 bone-in chicken thighs\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons grapeseed oil\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n2 juicy limes, halved\u003cbr>\nSumac, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, mix the turmeric with 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. Place the chicken on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with the spice mixture, turning to coat both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Brown the chicken well on both sides, about 7 minutes per side. Pour in the water, then add the garlic, stirring it into the water. Bring the water to a boil, then turn down the heat to low and cover. Braise the chicken for 25 minutes, until the inside is opaque. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the chicken to a serving platter, turn up the heat to high, and reduce the cooking liquid for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until it’s slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour the sauce over the chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the chicken with sumac and pepper, garnish with lime halves, and serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Option \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nUse whole portobello mushrooms in place of the chicken, or use 1 pound firm tofu, well drained and cut into slabs 1 inch thick. You will need a little extra oil for searing than what is called for in the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In The New Persian Kitchen Louisa Shafia draws on her Iranian heritage to create modern flavors with Old World charm. Shafia talks dried limes and sumac with BAB's Sarah Henry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1373386763,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":32,"wordCount":1748},"headData":{"title":"Louisa Shafia Taps Family Ties in The New Persian Kitchen | KQED","description":"In The New Persian Kitchen Louisa Shafia draws on her Iranian heritage to create modern flavors with Old World charm. Shafia talks dried limes and sumac with BAB's Sarah Henry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Louisa Shafia Taps Family Ties in The New Persian Kitchen","datePublished":"2013-07-08T16:49:15.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-09T16:19:23.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"64163 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64163","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/08/louisa-shafia-taps-family-ties-in-the-new-persian-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Louisa Shafia Taps Family Ties in The New Persian Kitchen","path":"/bayareabites/64163/louisa-shafia-taps-family-ties-in-the-new-persian-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64741\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/Louisa-Shafia700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/Louisa-Shafia700.jpg\" alt=\"For her latest cookbook, Louisa Shafia learned recipes from extended family in L.A. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64741\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For her latest cookbook, Louisa Shafia learned recipes from extended family. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Louisa Shafia is a poster child for the American melting pot. Shafia's Persian father came from a Muslim family in Iran, and her Ashkenazi Jewish mother grew up in Philadelphia. She had a Catholic nanny and attended Quaker school. As a child, Shafia, who has never been to Iran, also had a soft spot for the dishes from her dad's culture, though at the time she didn't think of those recipes as Persian food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little wonder then that as a chef Shafia is comfortable playing with pomegranates and seasoning with sumac. But it hasn't always been so. Shafia, author of the lovely eco-conscious cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://lucidfood.com/\">Lucid Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, has a predisposition for produce-centric cooking, and has dabbled in \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_Road\">Silk Road\u003c/a>-recipes in the past. But in her latest cookbook, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/1607743574?tag=food52-20\">The New Persian Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Shafia immerses herself in the cuisine of her father's family, in dishes dotted with classic Middle Eastern ingredients like pistachios, saffron, tamarind, dried limes, and rosewater. Persian food turns out to be a good fit for Shafia's wholesome style of cooking, the cookbook also features whole grains, quinoa, and tempeh and loads of vegetarian options. The book is as much about her modern American sensibility as a cook as it is a mash note to the ancient Iranian food of her roots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During an extended stay in San Francisco that included \u003ca href=\"http://lucidfood.com/2013/05/12/two-nights-two-incredible-book-dinners-thank-you-san-francisco/\">events\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zare at Fly Trap\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, the New York-based Shafia, 43, who has cooked in restaurants on both coasts and calls San Francisco her spiritual home, spoke with BAB about her new book and shared a recipe too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/1607743574?tag=food52-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/New-Persian-cover700.jpg\" title=\"The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia\" alt=\"The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-64736\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How would you describe Persian food for the uninitiated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Persian food is a really interesting mix of different Silk Road influences as well as its own native thing. There are a lot of native fruits and vegetables in Iran--pomegranates, citrus fruit, dates, are some of the iconic ingredients--and then there are influences from Russia, China, India, Eastern Europe and the Arabic world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are lots of spices in Persian cuisine, but there are no chile peppers in Persian cooking, with the exception of way down south near the Persian Gulf, so while there's a lot of seasoning in this cuisine there isn't spiciness to the food. You'll find things like turmeric, saffron, dried limes, rose petals, tamarind, pomegranate molasses, Angelica powder, and fenugreek, these are all interesting flavors unique to that part of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who cooked Persian food for you growing up?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly my mother: Like most Iranian men back then, my dad didn't really cook, although he has one signature dish, which is rice with lentils or \u003cem>adas polo\u003c/em>. My mom is an amazing cook, when I was at home she was really into Julia Child and took Chinese cooking classes. She made Persian food occasionally and it was always delicious. One of the favorite meals of my childhood was \u003cem> bademjan\u003c/em>, which is eggplant and tomato stew spiced with pomegranate molasses. That's in the book. Lamb kebabs, fluffy saffron rice, yogurt with cucumber and mint, are all foods I grew up eating. Once in a while my mother made \u003cem>fesenjan\u003c/em>, a special occasion, sweet-and-sour dish. It's a classic Iranian stew, known as \u003cem>khoresh\u003c/em>, and it forms the center of a Persian meal. There's a magical combination of rich ground walnuts, tart pomegranate syrup, cinnamon, and saffron simmered with seared chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about Persian food while writing this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't really know the whole underlying philosophy around Persian cooking, which is that there are energetically hot foods and cold foods. It's not that different from the Ayurvedic tradition of earth, ether, air, fire, and water or traditional Chinese designations of yin and yang, which makes sense, because they're all on the Silk Road, so I'm sure they all exchanged ideas. Take a kebab sprinkled with sumac and served with rice, raw onion, and a yogurt drink. Onions have antibacterial properties and sumac and yogurt aid in digestion. So the ingredients are selected to help the body digest hunks of rich protein. Here, meat and onions would be considered \"hot\" and sumac, yogurt, and rice are classified as \"cold.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had never worked with dried limes and they are offer a wonderful, bitter-sweet, intense citrus essence, which imparts a concentrated flavor. I have a dried lime tea in the book. I love to eat them. Some people put them aside after they're cooked but I find them a really nice counterpoint to some of the rich flavors in the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really learned about saffron. I didn't even know that the traditional way to prepare saffron in Iran is to grind it and then steep it in a little hot liquid for as long as you can before cooking it. It releases flavor and intensifies the color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/sweet-rice700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/sweet-rice700.jpg\" alt=\"Rice-based dishes, like this Sweet Rice with Carrots and Nuts, feature in The New Persian Kitchen. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64738\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice-based dishes, like this Sweet Rice with Carrots and Nuts, feature in The New Persian Kitchen. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about rice? Was there a lot to learn there, too?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, there's a very specific approach to making rice in Iran. You take white, Basmati rice, soak it in cold water for about an hour to remove the starch, then par boil it in very salty water, drain it and shock it. Next, you heat a pan, put in a decent amount of cooking fat, prepare a bottom layer with that par-boiled rice, then pile the rest of the rice in a pyramid shape, and poke holes in it to air it. Cover, turn it on high for ten minutes, and then turn it on very, very low for about an hour. What that does is it creates two different dishes in one pot: On the top you have beautiful, fluffy, white rice where all the grains are separated. Then on the bottom you have \u003cem>tahdig\u003c/em>--it's the Iranian soul food--if you've done it right you should have a crisp, golden layer of crunchy rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was it a conscious decision to use the word Persian rather than Iranian in the book's title?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It never occurred to me to have Iran in the title. I've always thought of the food and the culture as Persian because that's how we know it in the Western world and that's what I grew up hearing. And, of course, Iran has immediate negative connotations for many people in the U.S. When my father left Iran he never went back and never saw his parents, who lived in Tehran, again. He moved here, attempted to Anglicize his name, and if people asked he said he was German, which was silly because he does not look German. My dad didn't want to be identified with Iran. This was during the time of the Iranian Revolution, when there were American hostages. It was a different time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as I've been touring around the country and talking about the book I've actually become much more comfortable substituting the word Iranian for Persian half the time. Now I use them both interchangeably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has your own cooking changed since working on this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I use dried limes and dried mint all the time. I put dried mint in soups and season grains with it. I make dried lime tea and put dried limes in stews and rice. And sumac is one of those things that's now on my table like salt and pepper. I think of it as a combination of lemon juice and MSG, in that it sets off the flavors of other food. I put it in salad, it's an excellent meat tenderizer, and it's great on grilled fish or chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you know about Persian cuisine in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a huge fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zare at FlyTrap\u003c/a>. I admire what Chef Hoss does there: He takes Persian food and flavors and does something innovative with them. He incorporates elements of California cuisine and classic French cuisine, and takes these beautiful traditionally Persian ingredients that most people aren't cooking with and shows them off. I did a lot of lunch-time signings on the peninsular and Persian people I met there recommended \u003ca href=\"http://www.shalizaar.com/\">Shalizaar\u003c/a> in Belmont, for dependable Persian food. In the city people also like \u003ca href=\"http://www.maykadehrestaurant.com/\">Maykadeh\u003c/a> in North Beach. I've enjoyed the food there in the past. And the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rosemarketcatering.com/\">Rose International Market\u003c/a> in Mountain View, which is a grocery store, has a cafe that people say sells amazing shish kebab. It's on my list to try next trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_64740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/turmeric-chicken700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/turmeric-chicken700.jpg\" alt=\"A chicken recipe that's simple and quick to prepare--and packs a lot of flavor. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-64740\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chicken recipe that's simple and quick to prepare--and packs a lot of flavor. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Turmeric Chicken with Sumac and Lime\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003cbr>\nSea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n4 bone-in chicken thighs\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons grapeseed oil\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n2 juicy limes, halved\u003cbr>\nSumac, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a small bowl, mix the turmeric with 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. Place the chicken on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with the spice mixture, turning to coat both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Brown the chicken well on both sides, about 7 minutes per side. Pour in the water, then add the garlic, stirring it into the water. Bring the water to a boil, then turn down the heat to low and cover. Braise the chicken for 25 minutes, until the inside is opaque. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the chicken to a serving platter, turn up the heat to high, and reduce the cooking liquid for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until it’s slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour the sauce over the chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the chicken with sumac and pepper, garnish with lime halves, and serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetarian Option \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nUse whole portobello mushrooms in place of the chicken, or use 1 pound firm tofu, well drained and cut into slabs 1 inch thick. You will need a little extra oil for searing than what is called for in the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64163/louisa-shafia-taps-family-ties-in-the-new-persian-kitchen","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_3952","bayareabites_11449","bayareabites_11949","bayareabites_11897","bayareabites_11893","bayareabites_11895","bayareabites_11899","bayareabites_11950","bayareabites_11896","bayareabites_11900","bayareabites_11898","bayareabites_11894","bayareabites_11913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_64735","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_12821":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_12821","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"12821","score":null,"sort":[1272380393000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"commonwealth-a-benevolent-business-blooms-part-i","title":"Commonwealth: A Benevolent Business Blooms Part I","publishDate":1272380393,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/commonwealthtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"commonwealth cartoon\" title=\"commonwealth cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"563\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12844\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it springs to life in the old El Herradero space on Mission at 18th, presumably early this summer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> will be \"a progressive American restaurant, building on California's tradition of showcasing local, seasonal foods while incorporating diverse culinary approaches from around the world.\" Many, many San Francisco restaurants plaster that sort of thesis statement across their websites. While it's pegged as an \"innovative model of benevolent fine-dining...committed to benefiting our community,\" in which \"a set portion of proceeds from [Chef Jason] Fox’s inventive tasting menus will be donated to local non-profits,\" none of Commonwealth's p.r. literature refers to the eatery-in-process as a charity exactly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreedictionary.com/charity\">free, potentially unreliable online dictionary\u003c/a> defines charity: \"Provision of help or relief to the poor; almsgiving; something given to help the needy; alms; an institution, organization, or fund established to help the needy; benevolence or generosity toward others or toward humanity; indulgence or forbearance in judging others.\" As applied to the restaurant world, the word takes a lot of different tacks. Jamie Oliver's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifteen.net/Pages/default.aspx\">Fifteen\u003c/a> foundation trains disadvantaged youth to run a growing empire of restaurants. Since 1991, San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.delanceystreetfoundation.org/\">Delancey Street Foundation\u003c/a> has run a vocational training program around its restaurant staffed by residents (often ex-convicts and former abusers of drugs and alcohol). Plenty of restaurants make a point of donating surplus food to banks and soup kitchens. I also think of \u003ca href=\"http://karmakitchen.org/\">Karma Kitchen\u003c/a>, the three-year-old Berkeley cafe founded on the concept of pay-it-forward. Every meal is a \"genuine gift\" paid for by previous customers. The idea is that happy diners will then elect to become donors to allow subsequent visitors to enjoy the same nourishment and hospitality, and to perpetuate the cycle of trust, abundance, and community-awareness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though high-end big-ticket establishments occasionally throw a benefit bash situated around one holiday or another, most restaurants focused on helping others aren't overly preoccupied with pushing unique, gastronomically interesting meals. Relatively austere offerings such as dal and rice abound. I suppose that's why Commonwealth feels fresh -- even with brasserie \u003ca href=\"http://www.elmwoodcafe.com/\">Elmwood Cafe\u003c/a> in Berkeley getting off to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/03/01/cafe-elmwood-makes-immediate-impact/\">good start\u003c/a> last month. In \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/04/16/myint_dishes_on_postfunding_plans_for_commonwealth.php\">an Eater S.F. bit\u003c/a> posted the week before last, founder Anthony Myint laid out the mission pretty clearly: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Basically, we're drawing on some aspects of [Mission Street Food], such as affordability and inventiveness of cuisine, and trying to make this a more consistent and sustainable business, which creates some revenue for local charities...[We're creating an] approachable fine dining atmosphere, focused on value-oriented food...The overall experience will be much more akin to fine dining than the sometimes charming, but often chaotic atmosphere at Lung Shan.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Given the sprint-like pace at which cultural movements now gather speed, the idea that food can be an agent of positive change is not particularly new; the idea that a fine dining restaurant can -- and not just by sourcing produce from nearby farms or going \"green\" -- is, on the other hand, somewhat unprecedented. Eager \"foodies\" inevitably hover like locusts around any waves preparing to crash across the city's dining scene. Once street food emerged as a monster trend, the swelling popularity of carts and stands run not infrequently by unemployment check-cashing hobbyists helped draw positive attention to people with families depending on their fledgling Health Code-flaunting businesses for survival. They may compete with citizens who ten years ago might have worked at a dot com and snapped up SOMA lofts, but at least higher profiles and legitimacy loom closer for all, right? How appropriate to harness that reoccurring phenomenon with the intention of sharing profits with non-profit organizations bent on improving lives, not just lighting up the dining scene. Just as they do for \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> twice a week, lines will form around the block for Commonwealth when it opens. The lines will form partially because of the city's familiarity with Mission Street Food, but they will only stay if the restaurant is actually really good. Mission Street Food doesn't operate under the same pressure awaiting Commonwealth. It doesn't just appeal to people because it's a pop-up, or because its meals benefit charities. Each dinner is an opportunity to enjoy an unprecedented experience curated by a chef applying his learned techniques, background, and imagination to the concept. The chefs are usually relatively unheralded, and the meals give them an opportunity to garner more attention than they usually enjoy manning the sauce station at a celebrated restaurant with someone else's name on the menu out front. Imagine if \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> showed up one night with an army of assistants. The line would stretch up to Mount Davidson, but something would be lost all the same. Mission Street Food is a d.i.y. adventure with low prices to match. Dishes are executed with more consistency in a humming three-star kitchen with the same staff every night, but the spirit remains unique, lovably loose, with an invigorating, not unnerving, degree of uncertainty surrounding each dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S.F. Weekly online food editor John Birdsall said so much a month ago when he \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/commonwealth_chef_jason_fox_mi.php\">reported on the developing project\u003c/a>: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Commonwealth is no Crossroads Cafe...some scrappy, scrape-together-funding place -- despite a well publicized cash-raising initiative on Kickstarter -- along the lines of the twice-weekly pop-up that put funky, fusty Lung Shan on the map. In a way, Commonwealth promises to reprise an earlier, finer-dining incarnation of Bar Tartine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'm excited to see if Commonwealth's business plan in any way influences how it's received. Will Commonwealth's food be assessed like that of any other hotly anticipated Mission District eatery? Given the press and circulating buzz, will its food be taken as seriously as whatever charitable mission diners perceive ? It should be. But even if it sucks -- and it almost assuredly won't -- who would want to savage a restaurant founded on such noble principles? Will Michael Bauer bash away if it doesn't measure up to expectations? Will Yelpers revel in reporting on over-dressed salads, shaky service, and ice-cold plates, or will they hold back? Will Commonwealth's community-bolstering aspirations wilt beneath a barrage of dismissive, incomprehensible tweets?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stay tuned next week for some Q-and-A with Commonwealth folks.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1272380393,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":1122},"headData":{"title":"Commonwealth: A Benevolent Business Blooms Part I | KQED","description":"In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Commonwealth: A Benevolent Business Blooms Part I","datePublished":"2010-04-27T14:59:53.000Z","dateModified":"2010-04-27T14:59:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"12821 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=12821","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/27/commonwealth-a-benevolent-business-blooms-part-i/","disqusTitle":"Commonwealth: A Benevolent Business Blooms Part I","path":"/bayareabites/12821/commonwealth-a-benevolent-business-blooms-part-i","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/commonwealthtoon500.jpg\" alt=\"commonwealth cartoon\" title=\"commonwealth cartoon\" width=\"500\" height=\"563\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12844\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it springs to life in the old El Herradero space on Mission at 18th, presumably early this summer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a> will be \"a progressive American restaurant, building on California's tradition of showcasing local, seasonal foods while incorporating diverse culinary approaches from around the world.\" Many, many San Francisco restaurants plaster that sort of thesis statement across their websites. While it's pegged as an \"innovative model of benevolent fine-dining...committed to benefiting our community,\" in which \"a set portion of proceeds from [Chef Jason] Fox’s inventive tasting menus will be donated to local non-profits,\" none of Commonwealth's p.r. literature refers to the eatery-in-process as a charity exactly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefreedictionary.com/charity\">free, potentially unreliable online dictionary\u003c/a> defines charity: \"Provision of help or relief to the poor; almsgiving; something given to help the needy; alms; an institution, organization, or fund established to help the needy; benevolence or generosity toward others or toward humanity; indulgence or forbearance in judging others.\" As applied to the restaurant world, the word takes a lot of different tacks. Jamie Oliver's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifteen.net/Pages/default.aspx\">Fifteen\u003c/a> foundation trains disadvantaged youth to run a growing empire of restaurants. Since 1991, San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.delanceystreetfoundation.org/\">Delancey Street Foundation\u003c/a> has run a vocational training program around its restaurant staffed by residents (often ex-convicts and former abusers of drugs and alcohol). Plenty of restaurants make a point of donating surplus food to banks and soup kitchens. I also think of \u003ca href=\"http://karmakitchen.org/\">Karma Kitchen\u003c/a>, the three-year-old Berkeley cafe founded on the concept of pay-it-forward. Every meal is a \"genuine gift\" paid for by previous customers. The idea is that happy diners will then elect to become donors to allow subsequent visitors to enjoy the same nourishment and hospitality, and to perpetuate the cycle of trust, abundance, and community-awareness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though high-end big-ticket establishments occasionally throw a benefit bash situated around one holiday or another, most restaurants focused on helping others aren't overly preoccupied with pushing unique, gastronomically interesting meals. Relatively austere offerings such as dal and rice abound. I suppose that's why Commonwealth feels fresh -- even with brasserie \u003ca href=\"http://www.elmwoodcafe.com/\">Elmwood Cafe\u003c/a> in Berkeley getting off to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/03/01/cafe-elmwood-makes-immediate-impact/\">good start\u003c/a> last month. In \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/04/16/myint_dishes_on_postfunding_plans_for_commonwealth.php\">an Eater S.F. bit\u003c/a> posted the week before last, founder Anthony Myint laid out the mission pretty clearly: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Basically, we're drawing on some aspects of [Mission Street Food], such as affordability and inventiveness of cuisine, and trying to make this a more consistent and sustainable business, which creates some revenue for local charities...[We're creating an] approachable fine dining atmosphere, focused on value-oriented food...The overall experience will be much more akin to fine dining than the sometimes charming, but often chaotic atmosphere at Lung Shan.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Given the sprint-like pace at which cultural movements now gather speed, the idea that food can be an agent of positive change is not particularly new; the idea that a fine dining restaurant can -- and not just by sourcing produce from nearby farms or going \"green\" -- is, on the other hand, somewhat unprecedented. Eager \"foodies\" inevitably hover like locusts around any waves preparing to crash across the city's dining scene. Once street food emerged as a monster trend, the swelling popularity of carts and stands run not infrequently by unemployment check-cashing hobbyists helped draw positive attention to people with families depending on their fledgling Health Code-flaunting businesses for survival. They may compete with citizens who ten years ago might have worked at a dot com and snapped up SOMA lofts, but at least higher profiles and legitimacy loom closer for all, right? How appropriate to harness that reoccurring phenomenon with the intention of sharing profits with non-profit organizations bent on improving lives, not just lighting up the dining scene. Just as they do for \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a> twice a week, lines will form around the block for Commonwealth when it opens. The lines will form partially because of the city's familiarity with Mission Street Food, but they will only stay if the restaurant is actually really good. Mission Street Food doesn't operate under the same pressure awaiting Commonwealth. It doesn't just appeal to people because it's a pop-up, or because its meals benefit charities. Each dinner is an opportunity to enjoy an unprecedented experience curated by a chef applying his learned techniques, background, and imagination to the concept. The chefs are usually relatively unheralded, and the meals give them an opportunity to garner more attention than they usually enjoy manning the sauce station at a celebrated restaurant with someone else's name on the menu out front. Imagine if \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> showed up one night with an army of assistants. The line would stretch up to Mount Davidson, but something would be lost all the same. Mission Street Food is a d.i.y. adventure with low prices to match. Dishes are executed with more consistency in a humming three-star kitchen with the same staff every night, but the spirit remains unique, lovably loose, with an invigorating, not unnerving, degree of uncertainty surrounding each dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this specific sense, Commonwealth can't be as exciting. It might be innovative, but it won't be rough-and-tumble. Instead, with a bar, a regular fleet of servers, a pedigreed designer, and a beloved local chef starting a new gig, it will be more like...a restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S.F. Weekly online food editor John Birdsall said so much a month ago when he \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/commonwealth_chef_jason_fox_mi.php\">reported on the developing project\u003c/a>: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Commonwealth is no Crossroads Cafe...some scrappy, scrape-together-funding place -- despite a well publicized cash-raising initiative on Kickstarter -- along the lines of the twice-weekly pop-up that put funky, fusty Lung Shan on the map. In a way, Commonwealth promises to reprise an earlier, finer-dining incarnation of Bar Tartine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'm excited to see if Commonwealth's business plan in any way influences how it's received. Will Commonwealth's food be assessed like that of any other hotly anticipated Mission District eatery? Given the press and circulating buzz, will its food be taken as seriously as whatever charitable mission diners perceive ? It should be. But even if it sucks -- and it almost assuredly won't -- who would want to savage a restaurant founded on such noble principles? Will Michael Bauer bash away if it doesn't measure up to expectations? Will Yelpers revel in reporting on over-dressed salads, shaky service, and ice-cold plates, or will they hold back? Will Commonwealth's community-bolstering aspirations wilt beneath a barrage of dismissive, incomprehensible tweets?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stay tuned next week for some Q-and-A with Commonwealth folks.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/12821/commonwealth-a-benevolent-business-blooms-part-i","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_3951","bayareabites_3952","bayareabites_2748","bayareabites_3955","bayareabites_3954","bayareabites_3956","bayareabites_3950","bayareabites_3953","bayareabites_2311","bayareabites_3484"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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