Then, each chapter explains a different element of the process. "Bread" gives recipes for making your own French-style sandwich rolls at home, but also gives helpful suggestions on sourcing ready-made options. "Mayonnaise, Sauces, and Pickles" starts with homemade mayonnaise, then gives a handful of variations ranging from Cilantro Maggi Mayonnaise to Srirachi Aioli. Her easy vinegar-brine pickles--Citrusy Red Cabbage Pickle, Green Tomato and Lemongrass, Red Radish and Carrot--could liven up any summer picnic. "Cold Cuts" gives straightforward DIY options for making the East-meets-West sausages, terrines, and pates typically found in Vietnamese sandwich shops. Next come succulent, meaty chapters filled with inventive fillings, including chicken, pork, beef, seafood, tofu, and more.

At her book launch party at Omnivore Books on Monday, Nguyen came up with a great party idea. Platters of grilled and braised meat, bowls of pickles, dishes of cilantro sprigs and slivered cucumbers, and jars of flavored mayonnaises with paired with baskets of thin-sliced baguette toasts. Guests piled their plates high and made their own open-face banh mi crostini. Savory cocktails were spiked with fish sauce or pickling brine. Forget the olives and proscuitto, cheese platter and grapes: the banh mi bar had arrived, and in less than an hour, Nguyen's fans had picked every platter clean. As she writes,

"Banh mi started out as a colonial novelty in Vietnam, became a nationwide favorite, was transported and transplanted via a diaspora, and was enthusiastically adopted by new audiences. Like people in Vietnam, these new fans enjoy banh mi for what it is: a super tasty sandwich."

Hanoi Grilled Chicken. Photo: Paige Green

Recipe: Hanoi Grilled Chicken

Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

Brilliant foods are often simple foods. I had this tangy-salty grilled chicken at a Hanoi cafe in 2003 and was struck by its bright flavor. So much so that I replicated it upon returning to the States. It's great with rice but is perfectly at home stuffed into baguette. When possible, grill it over an open flame for a nice charred flavor. The heavy dose of black pepper lends an edge to this chicken.

Makes enough for 6 banh mi

Ingredients:

1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 teaspoon sugar
brimming 1/4 tsp salt
1 3/4 teaspoons black pepper
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
About 1 1/2 tbsp canola oil

Instructions:

Trim and discard big fat pads from chicken thighs. If the thighs are large and/or super uneven in thickness, butterfly them. Set aside.
In a bowl, stir together the sugar, salt, pepper, fish sauce, and lime juice. If needed, tweak the flavor to get a slightly tart-sweet, salty finish. Add the oil, then the chicken, coating the pieces well. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
To grill the chicken, preheat a gas grill to medium or prepare a medium-hot fire, or use a stove-top grill pan heated over medium-high heat with a little oil brushed on. Cook the chicken for 6 to 10 minutes, turning several times, until clear juices flow out when you pierce the flesh with the tip of a knife. Cool for 10 minutes before cutting across the grain. Tumble in the cooking juices to include extra flavor in the sandwich.

Note: When to Flip the Chicken
After putting a chicken thigh on a hot grill or pan, let it sear undisturbed. When there is an opaque border about 1/4 inch, flip the chicken. It should release easily and have nice browning on the underside. The second side will cook in less time, and you can turn it as you like.

Daikon and Carrot Pickle. Photo: Paige Green

Recipe: Daikon and Carrot Pickle

Reprinted with permission from The Banh Mi Handbook by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

If you only have one pickle for banh mi, this is it. Many banh mi shops opt to use only (or mostly) carrot for their do chua (literally “tart stuff”). In your kitchen, emphasize the slight radish funk for a sandwich with more character and cut the vegetables big enough to showcase their crunch; limp pickles get lost. Select daikon that’s firm, relatively smooth, and no wider than 2 inches . A batch of this pickle requires one that’s about the length of a forearm.

Andrea NguyenAndrea Nguyen

The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy-Delicious Sandwiches, by Andrea Nguyen