Lavender and a Honeybee

"Can you smell that?" I asked Hua, who was thankfully navigating the winding road, going up and up, as I rolled down the window and stuck my head out like an excited pup. We were in upcountry Maui, on our way to the Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm, and I could smell it! The faintest trace of that intoxicating fragrance. There was no mistaking it, we were close.

Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm

Perched 4,000 feet on the slopes of the volcano Haleakala, Ali'i Kula Lavender is the site of over 55,000 lavender plants blooming across 13.5 acres of serenity. More than 45 varieties of the lovely plant are grown on the farm, 7 of which bloom year round.

Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer

Ali’i Chang is the owner and farmer of Ali’i Kula Lavender. Since February 2002, under the warmth of the Hawaiian sun and Ali'i's smiling demeanor, the farm has flourished with not only lavender, but also vibrant proteas, hydrangeas, geraniums, roses, olive trees, and native Hawaiian plants.

While lavender is not a native species to Hawaii, the cool and dry climate, and rich volcanic soil create an optimal environment for it to grow. And yes, I did say "cool climate." Maui sustains a fascinating number of microclimates, and it happens that in lavender country, temperatures can go down to the 40s at night. Remember that if you find yourself sunburned and sweltering just an hour or so away by the coast.

As for how lavender first came to Hawaii, the history is a bit unclear, but supposedly, the herb was brought from England to the royal palace in Honolulu in the 19th century (it seems Hawaii's last monarch, Queen Liliuokalani fancied it). In homage to its noble history, Ali'i Kula Lavender means the Royal Lavender of Kula.

View from Buddha

The fragrance of lavender is known to have calming effects on one's being, and indeed, as I surveyed the sweeping vista in front of me and drank in the quiet beauty of the place, I felt a grounding sense of zen.

In fact, Ali'i Kula Lavender's mantra is "Relax, Rejuvenate, Renew," and it seems that every detail and service offered there is to reinforce that mindset. The dragonfly is used as their logo, an emblem that symbolizes rebirth and renewal; quiet sanctuaries are scattered throughout the grounds, picturesque places to just sit and enjoy, maybe even catch a quick nap; and everywhere you look, the mark of thoughtfulness appears.

Toasty Scones

My favorite? The toaster ovens out on the porch, ready to warm up one of the farm's famous buttery, flaky, Lavender Scones, and a spread of complimentary lavender liliko'i (passion fruit) jelly, lavender strawberry pepper jam, lavender honey, and lavender strawberry syrup.

Which brings me to the dizzying array of lavender products available here (more than 75, if you're counting). Edible, non-edible, sweet, savory -- you name it, they've got it.

Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop

Lavender brownies and shortbread cookies, teas, seasonings, jams, honey from the beehives on the property (crazy good), every bath and body product you could imagine, candles, sachets, even pet grooming products!

Apparently, not only does the scent of lavender relax and soothe, it also reduces symptoms from insomnia and vertigo, acts as a natural antiseptic, healing cuts and insect bites, and moisturizes.

I've been slathering myself with the heavenly body butter ever since I got my paws on a jar, and I can say, not only does it soften the skin, it helps to ease the imminent Maui withdrawal you're bound to face once you leave this paradise.

I also picked up some scone mix and lavender herb tea (made with lemon balm, mint, and chamomile) to help transport myself to a royal Ali'i Kula tea service whenever I wish.

Ali'i Kula Lavender

The impressive number of products is made possible by partnerships with more than 25 local businesses like Ono Gelato (responsible for lavender chocolate gelato), Kauai Kookie Kompany (producer of the delectable lavender shortbread cookies), The Hawaiian Fudge Sauce Company (lavender fudge sauce), Big Island Candies (lavender brownies and chocolate truffles), and so on…

"It is our social responsibility to take care of our communities and offer an experience that allows people to 'reconnect' to the land, to each other, and to themselves," says Chang. "We try to create opportunities for 'togetherness'."

It is this spirit of togetherness, collaboration, community that makes this lavender farm up in the mountains truly special. That, and the awesome smelling air.

Stop and Smell the Lavender

Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm
1100 Waipoli Road
Kula, HI 96790
808-878-3004

There's not a whole lot I wish for in San Francisco. City-wide peace. Perhaps a sharkless surf. A mayor who actually cared about the murder rate. Maybe the odd snowstorm complete with school closings that wouldn't actually affect me, but for which I would still get up at 6 AM to tune the radio appropriately. However, after re-watching one of my all-time favorite episodes of The Office, I now wish for Agri-Tourism.

The Bay Area is clearly the perfect place for a Schrute Farms bed and breakfast. Or The Stalk Inn, one of the cutest little asparagus farms you'll ever see. Now, maybe visitors wouldn't necessarily want to learn table-making from Dwight's lapsed Amish and potentially psychotic cousin, Mose, or have Harry Potter read to them by the innkeeper himself, but tending to the beets? Digging the asparagus beds? I'd totally sign up for that!

Think about it: in our hungry quest to become one with our food, we already chat extensively with farmers, attend farm dinners, volunteer at some farms and visit others -- clearly the next step is to sleep over at and work the farms themselves. Plenty of farms across the country already offer more than just a farm stand. Up in Philo, for example, The Apple Farm offers cooking classes, and in Hawaii, there's at least one coffee farm that offers accommodations.

Can we pick the coffee beans? Can we help bring in the harvest? Surely willing guests could be trusted with the most mundane of farm tasks, if only to get a weekend taste of reveling in growing things and honest dirt. There are also locavore B&Bs to be found in Virginia, North Carolina, and Georgia where you can be sure to sup on locally-grown victuals. I also discovered that there are farmstays to be had in Lancaster County and in Canada. At some places you can learn a great deal about farming, along with holistic uses for herbs and vegetables, while other farms simply encourage you to participate in vegetable picking for the inn's meals.

All of the above are great starts, but I'm looking for the same sort of intenseness you get from volunteering at Alemany Farm. A stay where you get covered in dirt and sore muscles from pulling weeds or harvesting beets. A stay where you go back to your soft room and take a long hot shower before settling down to a large farmhouse meal. A stay where you collapse into bed tired, happy, and knowing that you have sated something deeper than your stomach.