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Rough and Red-dy: Mount Tamalpais Merlot

Thursday, June 28th, 2007

Barely over my ecstasy from that first amaranth-hued glass, I decided to sample another grape-smeared offering from Marin Wines, their Mount Tamalpais Merlot. My god. My GOD!

Now, yes, Merlot has been battered about by the Hollywood likes of Sideways and bad examples of the glass. And, because it had been at least five years since I traded in my last glass of Merlot for Zinfandels, Francs, Barbarescos, and anything found in the Rhone, I also laughed knowingly along with the rest of the Northern California audience as Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles, slagged off on the once-popular wine.

It wasn’t even that I agreed with what his character, Miles, said about Merlot, it’s that I had long left what I considered a cloyingly sweet and flat red for rougher cut pastures and vines. Certain Merlots were shuddering reminders of my White Zinfandel-tinted youth, and I knew that my palette had grown up and was guiding me to richer and more complex climes.

However, last year I went to a traveling seminar sponsored by Swanson Vineyards called “Merlot Fights Back.” Not only did I get reintroduced to Merlot and reminded just how good that beleaguered grape can be, but I learned that the special bottle of ‘61 Cheval Blanc Miles had been saving was a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. That’s right, fifty percent “fucking Merlot.” However, I still wasn’t buying it by the bottle or even ordering it in restaurants. Until now.

Mount Tamalpais Merlot is remarkably robust and much more like the Bordeaux of old than the fruity, jammy, Smucker’s Merlots I had given up. Rich and musty with shifting prisms of loamy complexity, this Merlot massaged my soul with long, intense strokes. After one sip, I felt myself sinking bodily into my garnet glass.

As with any new and exciting bottle, this wine deserved a special dinner, so I paired it with a flagelot bean gratin, rare rosemary-flecked sirloin lamb chops, and a peppery watercress, fennel, and French Breakfast radish salad. Limbs entangled endlessly, the creamy beans, the gamey lamb, and the crunch-spice salad wallowed happily with the velvet-tongued wine.

You can buy Mount Tamalpais Merlot at PlumpJack Wines and the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant in San Francisco, at Tomales Bay Foods in Point Reyes, and from the Marin Wine website.

Mount Tamalpais Merlot, 2004, $25.00

posted by Stephanie Lucianovic | posted in wine | 2 Comments
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Think Pink!: Mount Tamalpais Vin Gris

Thursday, June 7th, 2007

This past Memorial Day took me out of the cold, foggy city and up to sun-drenched Pt. Reyes Station to celebrate Cowgirl Creamery’s 10th Anniversary. Cowgirls, Cowboys, and friends and families of both gathered under circus-peaked tents to listen to the inspirational words of The Cowgirls (Peg Smith and Sue Conley), Albert Straus of Straus Family Creamery, and Janet Brown of AllStar Organics. After the speeches, the entire staff plus the Straus family and some honored customers, stood for a very long time for a very large photo and then finally went into the closed-on-Mondays Tomales Bay Foods barn to chow down on the homemade potluck.

I balanced a satisfyingly heavy plate of Laura’s Kitchen Sink Mac and Cheese, chorizo, cornbread, salad, and my own basil-mint pesto edamame in one hand and grabbed at a wine glass with the other. I had taken a long sip of the Mount Tamalpais Vin Gris 2006 and was just starting to think that it was the best pink wine I had tasted in about ten years when I heard someone behind me ask, “How’s the wine?” I turned around to see a tall guy wearing a yellow Pey-Marin tee-shirt that matched the label on another bottle sitting on the bar. I babbled about how fabulously spicy and dry the rosé was. How I hadn’t had a wine like that since I tasted my very first Rosé d’Anjou. How THIS was the kind of stiff rosé I could snuggle up with any day of the week. Then I caught myself and, gesturing at his shirt, I added politely, “Of course, I haven’t tried your wine yet.” Well, I had, because Pey-Marin and Mount Tamalpais are labels from the same wine-making family, Susan and Jonathan Pey of Marin Wines. Jonathan smiled at me and said, “I just wanted an honest reaction.”

Well, he got it. This vin gris is insanely good. It went with everything on my plate — the rich mac and cheese, the stingingly spicy chorizo, the fresh basil-mint pesto, everything. I had to have a bottle of this. Jonathan told me I could find it at Plumpjack and the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant in the city.

The bottle secured a week later, I set about trying to confuse the wine with a whole host of foods. Secretly, I knew it could stand up to every single one of them, but I still had to try. We sat down to a dinner of minted Iacopi English peas with red onion, garlic, and roasted Dirty Girl turnips, homemade black pepper fettuccine with a wild mushroom-thyme cream sauce, and a beet salad with spicy greens (Heirloom Organics tatsoi and arugula and Four Sisters flowering watercress). The vin gris not only stood up to everything, including the rich and earthy mushroom sauce, but it actually gave each dish a shove back, asserting its own strong personality without shouting them down. My amaranth-hued glass gleamed back at me across my plate as if to say, “Is that all you’ve got? Because I can take it. Bring it on, my friend. Bring. It. On.”

Even the color is fierce! None of this blush and bashful pink that’s barely a whisper of color, this was wildhotcrazy lascivious pink. The pink of deep-bosomed sunsets, the pink of Barbie’s dress from the 80s (you know the one I mean), the pink of Belle Watling’s sheets, the discontinued pink of a Clinique lipstick I wore in high school. This Mount Tamalpais Vin Gris isn’t “pink,” it’s “PINK!”

I don’t know much about wines. I just know what I like, and I loved this.

Mount Tamalpais Vin Gris 2006, $18.00

Next Week: Mount Tamalpais Merlot

posted by Stephanie Lucianovic | posted in wine | 8 Comments
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A Moveable Thirst

Wednesday, April 25th, 2007


I’ve done a lot in my effort to learn more about wine. I’ve drunk and I’ve drunk and I’ve drunk, but to be honest I haven’t read all that much until now. Just recently several wonderful wine books have really caught my attention. A Moveable Thirst Tales and Tastes from a Season in Napa Wine Country is one of those books.

The premise of the book is that a journalist and a wine buyer decide to visit all 141 public tasting rooms in Napa over the course of a season. Part of the book is really an in-depth guide to the wineries with details like service, wine availability, picnic prospect and even “intangibles and extras” that includes things like “this winery is worth the effort to find” or “this room is aimed at novices”.

The “quest” portion of the book will have you laughing out loud. As Kushman bemoans his lack of spitting ability he is made to feel like an expert when he overhears other tasters ask, if the wine tastes like apricots does that mean they put apricots in the wine? And why do they call it a finish?

Napa is a region you could spend years getting to know. The authors of this book have done a lot of the legwork to help you make the most of your time in Napa. But those who plan no trips to Napa will enjoy it and learn something too. The information in the book ranges from the useful, like which Napa vintners are making Old World style wines to the trivial—did you know that one out of ten bottles of wine sold in America is White Zinfandel?

Another book that features the pairing of a novice and an expert is Educating Peter.

For my review of Educating Peter by Food & Wine editor Lettie Teague, head over to Cooking with Amy.

posted by Amy Sherman | posted in books, wine | 0 Comments
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Rhone at Home: Garage Wines

Sunday, April 1st, 2007

The invitation from Tim “Blind Muscat” Patterson was a two-part, April Fool’s proposition. First, we’d get to help him bottle a batch of ros&#233, a mongrel mix of this year’s Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Zinfandel. Then, there’d be the festive unbottling of the selfsame wine. What better way to celebrate Subterranean Cellars’ acquisition of water and electricity? The expansion of the patio and the recent arrival of a BBQ rig were additional excuses for an all-day drink-and-eat-fest.

Though far from a wine expert, I knew I’d be there when I read the menu’s magic words: pulled pork.


The newly equipped premises of Subterranean Cellars, with a peek back to the just-assembled patio table.


A barrel of Mourvedre sits patiently in the laundry room.

On Sunday morning a crew of bottlers arrived early. Long before gospel hymns swelled from the church across the street, all the bottles were filled, corked, capped, and labeled.


Out on the driveway, three cases of wine receive corks the old-fashioned way.


With corks securely in place, the bottles then head to the kitchen’s high-tech steaming device for capping.


In the dining room, those with sharp eyes and steady hands affix the labels.


“Scheming Beagle” has its own cult following.


A few bottles are removed from the production line. Roughy keeps watch over them as they chill.

Through the day, we enjoyed barrel samples of the Malbec and Cabernet Franc, some Riesling, and Roger Campbell’s amazing Mourvedre-in-Progress. A taste each of the 2006 Port and the heady Zort (Zinfandel Port) pretty much put me over the top, so I sat in the kitchen alone with the potato salad until I felt myself again. Overstuffed and inebriated, the official photographer of the event managed to miss documenting much that was worth remembering: the fat, glistening shrimp hot off the grill; the gorgeous salad of watermelon radish and sunchokes; plates upon plates of deviled eggs; and the pulled pork in all its tender glory.


Blind Muscat leads us in a toast to sunshine and wine.


A well-laid buffet never requires guests to put down their drinks.

Guests were as well-mixed as the grape varietals. Color theorists traded cookie techniques with psychologists, Pilates instructors held forth on root vegetables, and investment experts shared pie with graying revolutionaries. Yes, we were in Berkeley.

Driving back across the bridge, I remembered why I settled here in the Bay Area. There are other places for enjoying food, from the hawker stalls of Singapore to the routiers of Provence. New York has its fine service, and New Orleans its exuberance. What ties me to Northern California, though, are how much people here like to cook, always experimenting with ingredients and techniques in their own kitchens, and how generous people are in welcoming new friends to their homes and tables.

Finding good food is easy. Finding food shared with an open heart is true treasure.

posted by Thy Tran | posted in wine | 2 Comments
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Steele Wine Dinner @ Luella

Wednesday, March 21st, 2007


You don’t hear as much about Lake County as you do about neighboring Napa and Sonoma, but it’s an up and coming region that produces some wonderful wines. Though wines have been made here since before prohibition, its modern development as a wine region is relatively recent due in part to affordable property values. It’s the home to two of the newest American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s) designations, High Valley and Red Hills Lake County as well as two of the oldest, Guenoc and Clear Lake.

Red volcanic soils, mountain slopes, extreme temperature swings and winds off the lake result in longer ripening periods, a wide variety of grapes and an amazing range of wines. Varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Barbera, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc.

One of the pioneers in this area is Jed Steele, the winemaker who was responsible for the first nine vintages at Kendall Jackson. In 1991 he founded Steele and Shooting Star Wines. His whimsically named wines are reasonably priced and range from delicate to bold.

One of my favorite neighborhood restaurants, Luella, is holding it’s first winemaker dinner the Steele Wine Dinner on April 3rd with winemaker Jed Steele. This is a great way to try some Lake County wines and hear from the winemaker without heading North. As for the food, you’ll taste a number of dishes that Luella does best, crisp pizzettas, deliciously unctuous slow braised meats and sauces and tender homemade pastas.

Steele Wine Dinner
April 3, 2007
6:30 pm

Greet with
Shooting Star Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County, CA, 2005
Pizzetta with fromage blanc and lemon
Pizzetta with wild mushrooms and gremolata

First Course
Shooting Star Aligote, Washington State, 2005
Oysters on the half shell & fried with tarragon nage

Second Course
Steele Pinot Blanc, Santa Barbara, CA, 2005
Rapini ravioli with hazelnuts

Third Course
Writers Block Grenache, Lake County, CA, 2005
Rabbit sugo with papperdelle

Fourth Course
Stymie Merlot, Lake County, CA 2003
Lamb osso buco with chickpea wafers

Fifth Course
Steele Pacini Vineyard Zinfandel, Mendocino, CA 2004
Seared beef filet en croute with bone marrow butter and horseradish

Dessert
Shooting Star Black Bubbles Syrah, Lake County, CA 2003
Chocolate and strawberry shortcake

$75 all inclusive

Contact the restaurant for reservations:

Luella
1896 Hyde St
San Francisco CA
(415) 674-4343

posted by Amy Sherman | posted in restaurants, wine | 0 Comments
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A Jug of Wine…

Friday, March 9th, 2007

“A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread– and Thou” — Omar Khayyam.

I am not going to dissect that line from the Rubiayat today. I just placed it in this blog to somehow justify the fact that I chose to photograph a $3.99 1.5 liter bottle of Carlo Rossi Burgundy and put it into my blog.

Today, I am going to a wine tasting. It’s for work, so I’ll have to do a lot of spitting, sadly. My friends and colleagues, Saeed and Lyle, have kindly taken the time to share their wine knowledge (and our restaurant’s wine cellar) with the rest of their co-workers. This week’s session is loosely structured. Today, they are merely taking call-in requests– we’re drinking whatever the hell we want to drink. I think I’m a rather lucky fellow to have this opportunity.

Of course, this is work. I pretty much live in a restaurant. I talk about wine with strangers. And food, of course. It’s what I do.

When I am dining out with friends or family or anyone lacking in wine-related gumption (and I am not talking about gumption derived from wine intake), the wine list is automatically handed to me. In my earlier, I-have-to-impress-everyone-by-my-wine-knowledge days, this was a dangerous act of trust. Hopefully, my ordering habits have mellowed like, well, something that mellows. Friends, please correct me if I am wrong. I am still feeling my way.

The road of wine education has been a long one, with lots of sharp learning curves. And wet, too. Wine tends to make everything slippery, you know.

And the scenery is not always pretty. There are photos to prove it.

I myself was introduced to wine at an early age. Sadly, my early experiences weren’t shaped by early autumn harvests at my grandfather’s vineyards in Piemonte. He was an auto mechanic from Philadelphia. He liked beer. Lucky lager– the brand with the little concentration puzzles on the insides of the caps. My first taste of wine came with a threat from his wife. “You’re not getting down from this table until you finish your wine.” I was five. My grandmother didn’t like to waste anything. I cut my Ernest (R.I.P.) & Julio Gallo with as much ginger ale as I could pour into my wine goblet– the one with the etched glass grape vines– and did as I was told.

My introduction to champagne was only slightly more romantic. At nine, I ran about the garden tables filling the hollows of plastic Korbel “corks” with “champagne” and sipping from them daintily– pinky raised– at my cousin Stephanie’s wedding. I hope no one saw the pinky action. I have no idea who I was imitating. It just seemed the proper hand gesture for champagne drinking.

No wonder I preferred hard alcohol in my youth.

I mention these little snippets of my upbringing because I have the feeling I am not alone. I was not a wine savvy child. I didn’t really know too much about it until I thirty-ish. Though wine drinking is becoming a fast-growing sport here in the United States, I believe that most Americans are intimidated by the stuff. Please take that “Oh, but we live so close to Napa” expression off your face. Admit it, most Americans still drink beer with dinner. Or coffee. Or ([big] gulp) Diet Coke.

Wine is (I know you still have that smirk on your face and that can stop right now, foodie) simply not part of our collective heritage. We are not comfortable with it as a nation as a whole. Thank you, Pilgrims. Thank you, Volstead Act.

It saddens me to watch people squirm when faced with ordering wine, because it is my job as a waiter to make people comfortable. Choosing a wine should not be a daunting task, but it appears to so be for many. Which wine do I choose? What if I pick the wrong one? What if I don’t like it? When I ask people what they feel like drinking wine-wise, the answer is either Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc if they want a white and Cab or Pinot for red. No one ever seems to say the full name of either grape. Pinot? Noir, Meuniere, Gris, Blanc? One of these days I will blend all of these into one glass and present it to someone. One of these days. I often plead with my guests to break out of their neo-oenophobia and just try something different. Please. I suppose we may just have to wait for another sleeper-hit film to push people into trying another varietal.

I’ve been through this particular agony myself. The I don’t-know-anything-about-wine-so-I-am not-even-going-to-try syndrome. Or even oh-God-the-waiter-and-all-my-friends-will-judge me-if-I-order-the-wrong-thing. My point, if I indeed do have a point today, is that drinking wine should be a pleasant experience. If anyone laughs at you, wine is the perfect thing to “accidentally” knock from the table and onto his or her lap. No one should make fun of you (to your face) when you order wine. Oh, that’s my other point. Snobbish wine people are annoying, which makes me think of a certain Polk St. wine bar that needs a good investigation. Thank you for reminding me.

Over the next few months, I intend to drone on about wine varietals I think you should be drinking and why you should be drinking them. I’ll walk you through the geeky horrors of blind tasting and, not surprisingly, I’ll pair up some victuals I’d like to eat with some wines I’d like to drink. Isn’t that exciting? Say yes, even if you don’t mean it. I’m fragile.

Now, if you will excuse me, I have some serious imbibing to do. Over the next week, I expect you to get out there and drink something you’ve never drunk before, even if it’s Bull’s Blood of Eger. I expect a full report.

posted by Michael Procopio | posted in wine | 1 Comment
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