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A dreaded fungus that has destroyed banana plantations in Asia has now spread to Latin America.","imgSizes":{"thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-160x107.jpg","width":160,"height":107,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"medium":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-800x534.jpg","width":800,"height":534,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"medium_large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-768x513.jpg","width":768,"height":513,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-1020x681.jpg","width":1020,"height":681,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"complete_open_graph":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-1200x801.jpg","width":1200,"height":801,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-672x372.jpg","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-1038x576.jpg","width":1038,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-1920x1282.jpg","width":1920,"height":1282,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/gettyimages-156543302_custom-7893a6ecca1604f61423c678fdac5a0fbd954275-e1565976459877.jpg","width":1920,"height":1282}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_bayareabites_135987":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_135987","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_135987","name":"Lisa Held, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_134733":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_134733","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_134733","name":"Erika Mahoney, NPR Food","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_134492":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_134492","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_134492","name":"Terrence Chea, Associated Press","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_134473":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_134473","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_134473","name":"Christopher Joyce, All Things Considered","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_134460":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_134460","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_134460","name":"Dan Charles, NPR Food","isLoading":false},"civileat":{"type":"authors","id":"5583","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5583","found":true},"name":"Civil Eats","firstName":"Civil","lastName":"Eats","slug":"civileat","email":"twilight@civileats.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> is a daily news source for critical thought about the American food system. 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Follow Civil Eats on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CivilEats\">@civileats\u003c/a> and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Civil-Eats/56766540637\">Facebook\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"CivilEats","facebook":"/pages/Civil-Eats/56766540637?ref=hl","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Civil Eats | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/civileat"},"rgebreyesus":{"type":"authors","id":"11625","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11625","found":true},"name":"Ruth Gebreyesus","firstName":"Ruth","lastName":"Gebreyesus","slug":"rgebreyesus","email":"rgebreyesus@KQED.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"Food Writer","bio":"Ruth Gebreyesus is a freelance writer and producer based in the Bay Area. Through stories across various mediums, Ruth explores the creation and consumption of cultural products. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"https://www.kotetakotet.com/\">here\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"root_g","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Ruth Gebreyesus | KQED","description":"Food Writer","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rgebreyesus"},"uramakrishnan":{"type":"authors","id":"11689","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11689","found":true},"name":"Urmila Ramakrishnan","firstName":"Urmila","lastName":"Ramakrishnan","slug":"uramakrishnan","email":"uramakrishnan@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"KQED Food Editor","bio":"Urmila Ramakrishnan is KQED Arts & Culture’s food editor and an award-winning food journalist based in the Bay Area. Her multi-platform work has been featured in \u003ci>The New York Times\u003c/i>, \u003ci>Edible\u003c/i>, \u003ci>The San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i>, among other publications. She’s a kitchen gadget enthusiast who also loves food puns. Keep up with her cooking adventures on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/urmilamakes/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@urmilamakes\u003c/a> and join the food discussion \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/U_Ramakrishnan\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@U_Ramakrishnan\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d014718b767c29f78f33117b5b75eb6d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"U_Ramakrishnan","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Urmila Ramakrishnan | KQED","description":"KQED Food Editor","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d014718b767c29f78f33117b5b75eb6d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d014718b767c29f78f33117b5b75eb6d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/uramakrishnan"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139576":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139576","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139576","score":null,"sort":[1606161616000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-wine-country-is-adapting-to-climate-change","title":"How Wine Country is Adapting to Climate Change","publishDate":1606161616,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In September of 2015, Cecilia Enriquez sold the Petaluma estate of her family's winery, \u003ca href=\"https://enriquezwines.com/ourstory/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Enriquez Estate Winery\u003c/a>, in order to purchase a new property in the Russian River Valley. The following year, they were \"rocking and rolling\" in their new vineyard, but by the beginning of 2017, record-breaking rains had hit the Bay Area and caused destructive flooding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully, the winery was elevated enough to not be affected. Then October brought historic fires that \u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/10/16/a-closer-look-at-the-22-wineries-damaged-by-wine-country-fires/\">damaged at least 27 wineries\u003c/a> across Sonoma and Napa counties. With her winery located right off of River Road, Enriquez says, the fire came close, crossing Highway 101 just south of the River Road exit, toward Coffey Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 2017, fires are becoming more frequent—and destructive. In 2020, when the August Complex Fire became the \u003ca href=\"https://www.fire.ca.gov/media/11416/top20_acres.pdf\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">largest fire in California history\u003c/a>, Enriquez had to manage evacuations and power outages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You get so used to them that you already have things ready to go,\" Enriquez says. \"It becomes part of your normal everyday life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Enriquez, the California wine industry at large has struggled with the effects of climate change: drought, earlier and earlier harvests, floods and fires. But beyond structural damage, possibly the biggest impact that vintners and wineries have had to deal with is smoke taint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139611\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Grapes wither on the vine as smoke from the Glass Fire fills the sky at a vineyard near Calistoga on Sept. 30. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139611\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grapes wither on the vine as smoke from the Glass Fire fills the sky at a vineyard near Calistoga on Sept. 30. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Reversing the Effects of Smoke\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Smoke taint occurs when grapes are exposed to wildfire smoke, which can result in an overwhelming quality to the wine, often described as \"campfire,\" \"burnt\" or \"medicinal.\" With the extent of the fires in 2020, many wineries had to decide what to do with fruit that was tainted. And, since 2017, wineries like Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma County have experimented with technologies that both test for the presence of smoke taint and work to reverse it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are efforts to mitigate climate change and there's just kind of adaptation,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.winebusiness.com/people/?go=getPeopleArticle&dataId=223739\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Towle Merritt\u003c/a>, the vice president of operations and general manager at Gundlach Bundschu, who has plenty firsthand experience with smoke taint. In 2017, multiple Gundlach Bundschu properties had fire on-site. Going into this year, the winery wasn't looking to take in any grapes after October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But because of new technology, the winery decided to take in some late-season grapes that had been affected by smoke. The process uses the sanitizing agent known as ozone, which Merritt had used fairly regularly in to reduce microorganisms in barrels. The inorganic molecule has also been\u003ca href=\"https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20100510006593/en/Purfresh-Announces-Study-Results-Demonstrating-Effectiveness-of-Ozone-to-Enhance-Food-Safety-During-Transport-of-Fresh-Produce\"> used in produce transport\u003c/a> to increase food safety and in hotel rooms to \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1992-01-12-tr-114-story.html#:~:text=Ozone%20purifying%20units%20are%20increasingly,carried%20on%20a%20maid's%20cart.\">remove tobacco smoke odor\u003c/a>. There were claims, Merritt says, that ozone could eliminate 50-90% of smoke's volatile compounds in grapes by permeating the cell wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It actually fixed the issue than hid the issue,\" says Merritt. \"[Ozone] atomizes the volatile compounds. We like the prospect of actually trying to mitigate the root problem.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enriquez decided to go with a different method by using Bioclear or Clear Up BIO, which binds to the smoke taint in the grape juice and stays at the bottom of the barrel when it's racked. She treated all grapes that came in this year with it as a precautionary measure, even though smoke wasn't noticeably present. \"We've had very clean wine thus far,\" says Enriquez. \"But that's not to say it's not going to show up later in life.\" (In 2014, for example, some ash briefly fell around the estate in Petaluma; the grapes remained clean in fermenting and bottling, but a couple of months later, Enriquez noticed a little bit of smoke. \"Not overpowering, but you could definitely taste that there was smoke in there compared to previous vintages.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/img_0869-f529cb1ca9e89c814ea9054437fadcd7fdcb5fbe-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of Segassia Vineyard's vines were damaged after wildfires raged through Napa Valley in 2017.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-130543\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Forty percent of Segassia Vineyard's vines were damaged after wildfires raged through Napa Valley in 2017. \u003ccite>(Andrew Cates)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>'Mother Nature Does Not Have a Schedule'\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Not all wineries can afford to use smoke technologies. Some have chosen to work with smoke-tainted grapes and ferment with them, or else sell them wholesale to other wineries. Meanwhile, others with crop insurance often decide to forgo making wine from smoke-tainted grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, \"Mother Nature does not have a schedule,\" says winemaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.trombettawines.com/erica-stancliff\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Erica Stancliff\u003c/a> of Trombetta Family Wines. \"Mother Nature does what Mother Nature wants, and we are along for the ride.\" Stancliff's adjustments include pruning later in the winter to delay bud break and to mitigate the risk of frost early in the spring; she's also been proactive with watering and irrigation, and in moving more toward dry farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think 2017 was sort of a wake-up call,\" says Merritt. \"But really a wake-up call in the sense that there is just not enough research out there that you can speak to with any sort of absolute.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Napa winemaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.larkmead.com/pages/about/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Petroski\u003c/a>, a longtime advocate for talking about climate change in the wine industry, it's hard to pinpoint climate change as the sole cause for fires and other major disasters. \"It's a cumulative effect over time that is causing all this to happen,\" he says. A big factor in the LNU Lightning fires, which were caused by lightning strikes during hot, dry weather that ended up burning more than 363,000 acres, was human expansion, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're just going to keep continuously expanding and growing and thinking that we are indestructible,\" Petroski says. \"We've built houses in places that shouldn't be there, and put telephone poles with electric wires in places that shouldn't have been there, that weren't there 100 years ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Petroski is the winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards, which just celebrated its 125 anniversary this year as a family winegrowing estate. In the late 2000s, he was a part of the climate task force in Napa Valley which issued \u003ca href=\"https://www.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/CC%20and%20Agriculture%20Report%20(02-04-2013)b.pdf\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">a detailed report\u003c/a> on climate change's future effects. Petroski started becoming vocal about climate change, he says, because generational wineries like Larkmead want to continue their legacies 10, 20, and 30 years from now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order for Napa Valley to survive and thrive, Petroski says there needs to be a shift in how wineries think of the region as a destination. People come for the experience, even if it's during the winter months, he says, and not necessarily for the valley's famous varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. In other words, it's about rethinking and adapting to the continuously changing landscape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They come to absorb the sunshine and the good time,\" Petroski says, optimistically. \"It's going to continue to get better.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Earthquakes, fires, floods and drought have been a part of Wine Country in the last decade. Napa and Sonoma winemakers discuss what they're doing to adapt to the constantly changing climate.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621555260,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1115},"headData":{"title":"How Wine Country is Adapting to Climate Change | KQED","description":"Earthquakes, fires, floods and drought have been a part of Wine Country in the last decade. Napa and Sonoma winemakers discuss what they're doing to adapt to the constantly changing climate.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Wine Country is Adapting to Climate Change","datePublished":"2020-11-23T20:00:16.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T00:01:00.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139576 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139576","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/11/23/how-wine-country-is-adapting-to-climate-change/","disqusTitle":"How Wine Country is Adapting to Climate Change","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139576/how-wine-country-is-adapting-to-climate-change","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In September of 2015, Cecilia Enriquez sold the Petaluma estate of her family's winery, \u003ca href=\"https://enriquezwines.com/ourstory/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Enriquez Estate Winery\u003c/a>, in order to purchase a new property in the Russian River Valley. The following year, they were \"rocking and rolling\" in their new vineyard, but by the beginning of 2017, record-breaking rains had hit the Bay Area and caused destructive flooding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully, the winery was elevated enough to not be affected. Then October brought historic fires that \u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/10/16/a-closer-look-at-the-22-wineries-damaged-by-wine-country-fires/\">damaged at least 27 wineries\u003c/a> across Sonoma and Napa counties. With her winery located right off of River Road, Enriquez says, the fire came close, crossing Highway 101 just south of the River Road exit, toward Coffey Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 2017, fires are becoming more frequent—and destructive. In 2020, when the August Complex Fire became the \u003ca href=\"https://www.fire.ca.gov/media/11416/top20_acres.pdf\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">largest fire in California history\u003c/a>, Enriquez had to manage evacuations and power outages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You get so used to them that you already have things ready to go,\" Enriquez says. \"It becomes part of your normal everyday life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Enriquez, the California wine industry at large has struggled with the effects of climate change: drought, earlier and earlier harvests, floods and fires. But beyond structural damage, possibly the biggest impact that vintners and wineries have had to deal with is smoke taint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139611\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Grapes wither on the vine as smoke from the Glass Fire fills the sky at a vineyard near Calistoga on Sept. 30. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139611\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/Image-from-iOS-23-1536x1024-1.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grapes wither on the vine as smoke from the Glass Fire fills the sky at a vineyard near Calistoga on Sept. 30. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Reversing the Effects of Smoke\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Smoke taint occurs when grapes are exposed to wildfire smoke, which can result in an overwhelming quality to the wine, often described as \"campfire,\" \"burnt\" or \"medicinal.\" With the extent of the fires in 2020, many wineries had to decide what to do with fruit that was tainted. And, since 2017, wineries like Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma County have experimented with technologies that both test for the presence of smoke taint and work to reverse it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are efforts to mitigate climate change and there's just kind of adaptation,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.winebusiness.com/people/?go=getPeopleArticle&dataId=223739\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Towle Merritt\u003c/a>, the vice president of operations and general manager at Gundlach Bundschu, who has plenty firsthand experience with smoke taint. In 2017, multiple Gundlach Bundschu properties had fire on-site. Going into this year, the winery wasn't looking to take in any grapes after October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But because of new technology, the winery decided to take in some late-season grapes that had been affected by smoke. The process uses the sanitizing agent known as ozone, which Merritt had used fairly regularly in to reduce microorganisms in barrels. The inorganic molecule has also been\u003ca href=\"https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20100510006593/en/Purfresh-Announces-Study-Results-Demonstrating-Effectiveness-of-Ozone-to-Enhance-Food-Safety-During-Transport-of-Fresh-Produce\"> used in produce transport\u003c/a> to increase food safety and in hotel rooms to \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1992-01-12-tr-114-story.html#:~:text=Ozone%20purifying%20units%20are%20increasingly,carried%20on%20a%20maid's%20cart.\">remove tobacco smoke odor\u003c/a>. There were claims, Merritt says, that ozone could eliminate 50-90% of smoke's volatile compounds in grapes by permeating the cell wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It actually fixed the issue than hid the issue,\" says Merritt. \"[Ozone] atomizes the volatile compounds. We like the prospect of actually trying to mitigate the root problem.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enriquez decided to go with a different method by using Bioclear or Clear Up BIO, which binds to the smoke taint in the grape juice and stays at the bottom of the barrel when it's racked. She treated all grapes that came in this year with it as a precautionary measure, even though smoke wasn't noticeably present. \"We've had very clean wine thus far,\" says Enriquez. \"But that's not to say it's not going to show up later in life.\" (In 2014, for example, some ash briefly fell around the estate in Petaluma; the grapes remained clean in fermenting and bottling, but a couple of months later, Enriquez noticed a little bit of smoke. \"Not overpowering, but you could definitely taste that there was smoke in there compared to previous vintages.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130543\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/img_0869-f529cb1ca9e89c814ea9054437fadcd7fdcb5fbe-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of Segassia Vineyard's vines were damaged after wildfires raged through Napa Valley in 2017.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-130543\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Forty percent of Segassia Vineyard's vines were damaged after wildfires raged through Napa Valley in 2017. \u003ccite>(Andrew Cates)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>'Mother Nature Does Not Have a Schedule'\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Not all wineries can afford to use smoke technologies. Some have chosen to work with smoke-tainted grapes and ferment with them, or else sell them wholesale to other wineries. Meanwhile, others with crop insurance often decide to forgo making wine from smoke-tainted grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, \"Mother Nature does not have a schedule,\" says winemaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.trombettawines.com/erica-stancliff\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Erica Stancliff\u003c/a> of Trombetta Family Wines. \"Mother Nature does what Mother Nature wants, and we are along for the ride.\" Stancliff's adjustments include pruning later in the winter to delay bud break and to mitigate the risk of frost early in the spring; she's also been proactive with watering and irrigation, and in moving more toward dry farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think 2017 was sort of a wake-up call,\" says Merritt. \"But really a wake-up call in the sense that there is just not enough research out there that you can speak to with any sort of absolute.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Napa winemaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.larkmead.com/pages/about/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">Dan Petroski\u003c/a>, a longtime advocate for talking about climate change in the wine industry, it's hard to pinpoint climate change as the sole cause for fires and other major disasters. \"It's a cumulative effect over time that is causing all this to happen,\" he says. A big factor in the LNU Lightning fires, which were caused by lightning strikes during hot, dry weather that ended up burning more than 363,000 acres, was human expansion, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're just going to keep continuously expanding and growing and thinking that we are indestructible,\" Petroski says. \"We've built houses in places that shouldn't be there, and put telephone poles with electric wires in places that shouldn't have been there, that weren't there 100 years ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Petroski is the winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards, which just celebrated its 125 anniversary this year as a family winegrowing estate. In the late 2000s, he was a part of the climate task force in Napa Valley which issued \u003ca href=\"https://www.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/CC%20and%20Agriculture%20Report%20(02-04-2013)b.pdf\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">a detailed report\u003c/a> on climate change's future effects. Petroski started becoming vocal about climate change, he says, because generational wineries like Larkmead want to continue their legacies 10, 20, and 30 years from now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order for Napa Valley to survive and thrive, Petroski says there needs to be a shift in how wineries think of the region as a destination. People come for the experience, even if it's during the winter months, he says, and not necessarily for the valley's famous varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. In other words, it's about rethinking and adapting to the continuously changing landscape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They come to absorb the sunshine and the good time,\" Petroski says, optimistically. \"It's going to continue to get better.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139576/how-wine-country-is-adapting-to-climate-change","authors":["11689"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_836","bayareabites_1604","bayareabites_17042","bayareabites_17041","bayareabites_14869","bayareabites_14748","bayareabites_9738","bayareabites_3788"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139610","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136148","score":null,"sort":[1579745548000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","publishDate":1579745548,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7T8qdVAcOl/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6qqxF0B6xw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BECD5fbERqI/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6RD-tkgY9o/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1579915254,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades | KQED","description":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","datePublished":"2020-01-23T02:12:28.000Z","dateModified":"2020-01-25T01:20:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"136148 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/22/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades/","disqusTitle":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B7T8qdVAcOl"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6qqxF0B6xw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BECD5fbERqI"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6RD-tkgY9o"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13931","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9714","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_1180","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_13973"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136153","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136002":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136002","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136002","score":null,"sort":[1576771246000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"seafood-lovers-rejoice-dungeness-crab-season-is-on","title":"Seafood Lovers, Rejoice: Dungeness Crab Season Is On","publishDate":1576771246,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Dungeness crab season in California has officially begun after\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11784637/commercial-crab-fishing-season-tentatively-delayed-recreational-warning-issued\"> a delay\u003c/a> issued by the state's Department of Fish and Wildlife. The month-long wait allowed whales to safely migrate south for the winter without getting caught in crab fishing lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a video posted earlier this week, Berkeley- and San Francisco-based sustainable fishmonger Monterey Fish Market showed boats collecting bucket loads that have already arrived at Bay Area restaurants by now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6OSMnbhj1g/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Edward Wooley, who runs Oakland pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/?hl=en\">Chef Smelly\u003c/a>, posted a photo yesterday showing a pair of crabs dressed in garlic and butter on a glistening bed of noodles. While\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sisterrestaurant/\"> Sister\u003c/a> on Grand Avenue has incorporated the crustaceans into their pasta dishes, starting Dec. 31 they'll feature whole and half crabs paired with absinthe cocktails. You can expect crabs to crawl into many more Bay Area restaurants and holiday dinners in the coming months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Dungeness crab season in California is officially on after a month-long delay to allow whales to safely migrate south. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1576780012,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":157},"headData":{"title":"Seafood Lovers, Rejoice: Dungeness Crab Season Is On | KQED","description":"Dungeness crab season in California is officially on after a month-long delay to allow whales to safely migrate south. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Seafood Lovers, Rejoice: Dungeness Crab Season Is On","datePublished":"2019-12-19T16:00:46.000Z","dateModified":"2019-12-19T18:26:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"136002 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136002","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/19/seafood-lovers-rejoice-dungeness-crab-season-is-on/","disqusTitle":"Seafood Lovers, Rejoice: Dungeness Crab Season Is On","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136002/seafood-lovers-rejoice-dungeness-crab-season-is-on","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Dungeness crab season in California has officially begun after\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11784637/commercial-crab-fishing-season-tentatively-delayed-recreational-warning-issued\"> a delay\u003c/a> issued by the state's Department of Fish and Wildlife. The month-long wait allowed whales to safely migrate south for the winter without getting caught in crab fishing lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a video posted earlier this week, Berkeley- and San Francisco-based sustainable fishmonger Monterey Fish Market showed boats collecting bucket loads that have already arrived at Bay Area restaurants by now.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6OSMnbhj1g"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Chef Edward Wooley, who runs Oakland pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/?hl=en\">Chef Smelly\u003c/a>, posted a photo yesterday showing a pair of crabs dressed in garlic and butter on a glistening bed of noodles. While\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sisterrestaurant/\"> Sister\u003c/a> on Grand Avenue has incorporated the crustaceans into their pasta dishes, starting Dec. 31 they'll feature whole and half crabs paired with absinthe cocktails. You can expect crabs to crawl into many more Bay Area restaurants and holiday dinners in the coming months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136002/seafood-lovers-rejoice-dungeness-crab-season-is-on","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_564","bayareabites_10886","bayareabites_523","bayareabites_14757"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136005","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135987":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135987","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135987","score":null,"sort":[1576692007000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","title":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?","publishDate":1576692007,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134729']“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_121110']“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_126036']On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_51586']“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some advocates are working to close a loophole that they say has created unintended consequences, including destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1576692007,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":1926},"headData":{"title":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation? | KQED","description":"Some advocates are working to close a loophole that they say has created unintended consequences, including destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?","datePublished":"2019-12-18T18:00:07.000Z","dateModified":"2019-12-18T18:00:07.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135987 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135987","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/18/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/","disqusTitle":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?","nprByline":"Lisa Held, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/135987/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_134729","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_121110","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_126036","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_51586","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135987/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135987"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13098","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135989","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135016":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135016","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135016","score":null,"sort":[1570822104000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","title":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?","publishDate":1570822104,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_68996,bayareabites_130307' label='More on Dry Farming']\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the state faces ever hotter, drier, and more erratic weather, advocates of dry farming say its time has come—again.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1570822104,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1993},"headData":{"title":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards? | KQED","description":"As the state faces ever hotter, drier, and more erratic weather, advocates of dry farming say its time has come—again.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?","datePublished":"2019-10-11T19:28:24.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-11T19:28:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135016 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135016","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/10/11/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/","disqusTitle":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?","path":"/bayareabites/135016/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_68996,bayareabites_130307","label":"More on Dry Farming "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135016/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","authors":["5583"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_16478","bayareabites_12282","bayareabites_14748"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135018","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134733":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134733","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134733","score":null,"sort":[1568052132000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins","title":"Saving California's Kelp Forest May Depend On Eating Purple Sea Urchins","publishDate":1568052132,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='science_922896,science_1927312' label='More on Sea Urchins']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A favorite dish for purple sea urchins living off the coast of California is kelp. Problem is, those kelp forests are shrinking dramatically and that's hurting the marine ecosystem. So a group of scientists ran an experiment to see if these sea urchins can become a top menu item themselves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just off the Monterey Peninsula, a boat sways in the ocean. Three divers get ready to jump in. They're students from \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlml.calstate.edu/\">Moss Landing Marine Laboratories\u003c/a>, a graduate school for marine scientists. The assignment, count purple sea urchins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Catch you on the flip side,\" says Shelby Penn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their professor, Luke Gardner, waits on deck. He expects they'll find plenty of urchins. And that's not a good thing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What they do is they just eat everything in sight,\" Gardner says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These spiny creatures are mowing down California's kelp forests. Kelp is a vital part of the ecosystem. It provides food and shelter for numerous animals, including abalone, rockfish and sea otters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urchin barrens\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem began around 2014. That's when Gardner says warmer ocean temperatures began affecting the reproduction of kelp. It's also when a disease killed off sunflower sea stars, a predator of purple sea urchins. The purple sea urchin population skyrocketed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So with the increase in purple sea urchins, what we've seen is a dramatic reduction in kelp cover, primarily in Northern California. But it's slowly creeping further south. And now we're starting to see a fair bit of it on the Central Coast,\" Gardner says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Urchin barrens are areas that used to be full of kelp and are now full of urchins. One of these is below the boat. Diver Daniel Gossard takes video of it with a GoPro camera. The video shows rocks covered in spiny, ball-shaped creatures that can fit in the palm of your hand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kelp was nonexistent,\" Gossard said on the boat ride back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The divers didn't come up empty-handed. They bring Gardner some purple urchins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They've just got a bunch of spines, bright colors,\" says Gardner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's inside is the part we eat, the uni — a part of the sea urchin considered a delicacy in Japanese cuisine. (You might have encountered it on the menu at a sushi restaurant.) Commercial divers have been harvesting urchins in California for decades. Primarily red sea urchin, because they're bigger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner says we should be eating more of the purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The problem with these guys is that when you open them up... there's nothing in there,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since they've eaten up their food supply, they're basically skeletons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter aquaculture, or the farming of aquatic organisms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner is also an aquaculture specialist with the \u003ca href=\"https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/\">California Sea Grant\u003c/a>, a state and federal partnership that uses science to help coastal communities solve issues. So he had his students run a research trial on this problem. The goal was to make these urchins valuable by turning them into a delicacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Graduate student Katie Neylan helped run the experiment. She and her classmates removed 500 purple sea urchins from the ocean and transplanted them into big, blue tanks at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlml.calstate.edu/aquaculture/\">Moss Landing Marine Laboratories Center of Aquaculture\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We came out and fed them every three to five days. We had red algae that we fed them called ogo or Gracilaria pacifica. We fed them kelp, which is just giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera,\" Neylan says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ones eating ogo reached market size faster, in just eight weeks. Neylan says it showed how ogo is more nutritious thank kelp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The proof in the eating\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, it was time for the taste test.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a typical foggy day in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the class crowds into the kitchen of Michelin Star restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://auberginecarmel.com/\">Aubergine\u003c/a>. Here, Executive Chef Justin Cogley serves uni from around the world. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He uses tweezers to open up the purple urchins, revealing the orange uni inside.His favorite is the ogo-fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134735\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/urchin-dish_wide-99ab7d9403f4444805169cdad824a0df3a759804-e1568051492253.jpg\" alt=\"Aubergine Executive Chef Justin Cogley prepared the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for the class to try.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134735\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aubergine Executive Chef Justin Cogley prepared the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for the class to try. \u003ccite>(Erika Mahoney/KAZU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Honestly, it's rich and buttery. I think this one might be a touch [cleaner], tastes a little bit cleaner,\" Cogley says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His conclusion, he'd serve it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a great story and everyone's trying to do their part to save the ocean too,\" Cogley says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He prepares the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for everyone to try. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tasty end to the project. But this could be just the beginning. A company called Urchinomics has been selling their ranched urchins in Japan. Now, they're working to secure a site in California. All in an effort to save the state's dwindling kelp forest and help the thousands of animals that depend on it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR/KAZU. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/09/756929657/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Purple sea urchins are devouring the kelp forest off California's coast. To help the forest survive, researchers are trying to make these urchins a delicacy on menus at seafood restaurants.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1568052132,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":832},"headData":{"title":"Saving California's Kelp Forest May Depend On Eating Purple Sea Urchins | KQED","description":"Purple sea urchins are devouring the kelp forest off California's coast. To help the forest survive, researchers are trying to make these urchins a delicacy on menus at seafood restaurants.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Saving California's Kelp Forest May Depend On Eating Purple Sea Urchins","datePublished":"2019-09-09T18:02:12.000Z","dateModified":"2019-09-09T18:02:12.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134733 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134733","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/09/09/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins/","disqusTitle":"Saving California's Kelp Forest May Depend On Eating Purple Sea Urchins","nprImageCredit":"Erika Mahoney","nprByline":"Erika Mahoney, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"KAZU","nprStoryId":"756929657","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=756929657&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/09/756929657/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins?ft=nprml&f=756929657","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 09 Sep 2019 12:01:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 09 Sep 2019 12:01:17 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 09 Sep 2019 12:01:17 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/134733/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"science_922896,science_1927312","label":"More on Sea Urchins "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A favorite dish for purple sea urchins living off the coast of California is kelp. Problem is, those kelp forests are shrinking dramatically and that's hurting the marine ecosystem. So a group of scientists ran an experiment to see if these sea urchins can become a top menu item themselves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just off the Monterey Peninsula, a boat sways in the ocean. Three divers get ready to jump in. They're students from \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlml.calstate.edu/\">Moss Landing Marine Laboratories\u003c/a>, a graduate school for marine scientists. The assignment, count purple sea urchins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Catch you on the flip side,\" says Shelby Penn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their professor, Luke Gardner, waits on deck. He expects they'll find plenty of urchins. And that's not a good thing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What they do is they just eat everything in sight,\" Gardner says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These spiny creatures are mowing down California's kelp forests. Kelp is a vital part of the ecosystem. It provides food and shelter for numerous animals, including abalone, rockfish and sea otters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urchin barrens\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem began around 2014. That's when Gardner says warmer ocean temperatures began affecting the reproduction of kelp. It's also when a disease killed off sunflower sea stars, a predator of purple sea urchins. The purple sea urchin population skyrocketed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So with the increase in purple sea urchins, what we've seen is a dramatic reduction in kelp cover, primarily in Northern California. But it's slowly creeping further south. And now we're starting to see a fair bit of it on the Central Coast,\" Gardner says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Urchin barrens are areas that used to be full of kelp and are now full of urchins. One of these is below the boat. Diver Daniel Gossard takes video of it with a GoPro camera. The video shows rocks covered in spiny, ball-shaped creatures that can fit in the palm of your hand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kelp was nonexistent,\" Gossard said on the boat ride back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The divers didn't come up empty-handed. They bring Gardner some purple urchins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They've just got a bunch of spines, bright colors,\" says Gardner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's inside is the part we eat, the uni — a part of the sea urchin considered a delicacy in Japanese cuisine. (You might have encountered it on the menu at a sushi restaurant.) Commercial divers have been harvesting urchins in California for decades. Primarily red sea urchin, because they're bigger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner says we should be eating more of the purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The problem with these guys is that when you open them up... there's nothing in there,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since they've eaten up their food supply, they're basically skeletons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter aquaculture, or the farming of aquatic organisms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner is also an aquaculture specialist with the \u003ca href=\"https://caseagrant.ucsd.edu/\">California Sea Grant\u003c/a>, a state and federal partnership that uses science to help coastal communities solve issues. So he had his students run a research trial on this problem. The goal was to make these urchins valuable by turning them into a delicacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Graduate student Katie Neylan helped run the experiment. She and her classmates removed 500 purple sea urchins from the ocean and transplanted them into big, blue tanks at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlml.calstate.edu/aquaculture/\">Moss Landing Marine Laboratories Center of Aquaculture\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We came out and fed them every three to five days. We had red algae that we fed them called ogo or Gracilaria pacifica. We fed them kelp, which is just giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera,\" Neylan says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ones eating ogo reached market size faster, in just eight weeks. Neylan says it showed how ogo is more nutritious thank kelp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The proof in the eating\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, it was time for the taste test.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a typical foggy day in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the class crowds into the kitchen of Michelin Star restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://auberginecarmel.com/\">Aubergine\u003c/a>. Here, Executive Chef Justin Cogley serves uni from around the world. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He uses tweezers to open up the purple urchins, revealing the orange uni inside.His favorite is the ogo-fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134735\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/urchin-dish_wide-99ab7d9403f4444805169cdad824a0df3a759804-e1568051492253.jpg\" alt=\"Aubergine Executive Chef Justin Cogley prepared the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for the class to try.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134735\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aubergine Executive Chef Justin Cogley prepared the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for the class to try. \u003ccite>(Erika Mahoney/KAZU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Honestly, it's rich and buttery. I think this one might be a touch [cleaner], tastes a little bit cleaner,\" Cogley says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His conclusion, he'd serve it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a great story and everyone's trying to do their part to save the ocean too,\" Cogley says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He prepares the uni on a fried potato with a sweet soy glaze for everyone to try. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tasty end to the project. But this could be just the beginning. A company called Urchinomics has been selling their ranched urchins in Japan. Now, they're working to secure a site in California. All in an effort to save the state's dwindling kelp forest and help the thousands of animals that depend on it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR/KAZU. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/09/756929657/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134733/saving-californias-kelp-forest-may-depend-on-eating-purple-sea-urchins","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134733"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_91","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_836","bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_15739","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_14756","bayareabites_16464"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134734","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134492":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134492","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134492","score":null,"sort":[1566495270000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","title":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years","publishDate":1566495270,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside tag='salmon' num='2' label='More on Salmon']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trolling off the California coast, Sarah Bates leans over the side of her boat and pulls out a long, silvery fish prized by anglers and seafood lovers: wild king salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reeling in a fish “feels good every time,” but this year has been surprisingly good, said Bates, a commercial troller based in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and other California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sharp reversal for chinook salmon, also known as king salmon, an iconic species that helps sustain many Pacific Coast fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial salmon catches have surpassed official preseason forecasts by about 50%, said Kandice Morgenstern, a marine scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. Harvests have been particularly strong in Morro Bay, Monterey and San Francisco, but weaker along California’s northern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re really surprised to be seeing this many fish being landed so far this season,” Morgenstern said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon rebound comes after three years of extremely low catches that resulted from poor ocean conditions and California’s five-year drought, which drained the state’s rivers and reservoirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past several years, regulators imposed severe fishing restrictions to protect chinook salmon, and officials declared \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/62f6559d8010428699d63e7dcd12ffbe\">federal fishery disasters\u003c/a> in 2018 to assist fishing communities in California, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_oZTViacZE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pacific Coast fishermen are reeling in big hauls of wild king salmon after years of weak harvests due to severe drought and poor ocean conditions. The chinook salmon boom is good news for anglers, seafood lovers and coastal fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s adult salmon are the first class to benefit from record rainfall that filled California rivers and streams in early 2017, making it easier for juvenile chinook to migrate to the Pacific Ocean, where they grow into full-size fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are also being helped by improved ocean conditions that have produced an abundance of anchovies, krill and other feed. Several years ago, an El Nino event brought unusually warm water to the Pacific Coast and disrupted the marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For the salmon fishermen who’ve been dealing with disaster for so long, this is an incredible boon to their livelihoods,” said Noah Oppenheim, who heads the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strong salmon season, which typically runs from May to October, is positive environmental news at a time of growing anxiety about climate change. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/afb6990efd7c437da19c6d4d9976899c\">United Nations report\u003c/a> released this month warns that global warming threatens food supplies worldwide.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_81655' align='left' label='How to Cook Your Salmon']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgenstern says climate change is creating greater fluctuations in ocean and river conditions, making chinook fisheries “less stable, less predictable and more challenging for fishery managers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the chinook salmon now being caught come from the Sacramento River and its tributaries, where they spawn. Many were raised in state-run hatcheries then released into rivers to swim to the ocean. Harvests of chinook from rivers farther north have not been strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For consumers, the bountiful harvest has driven down wild salmon prices to $15 to $20 per pound, compared with $30 to $35 per pound in recent years. Fishermen are making up for the difference by catching more fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The market is dictating right now that there’s a lot of salmon, so the customers don’t have to pay as much,” said Gordon Drysdale, culinary director at Scoma’s, a seafood restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The wharf is one of many California fishing communities now benefiting from the salmon boom. Pier 45, where boats unload their fish, hasn’t been this busy in many years, said Larry Collins, who runs the San Francisco Community Fishing Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year started out with a bang, and it’s just kept banging the whole time,” Collins said. “We’re all really excited and happy the fish showed up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent morning, commercial fisherman Brand Little, who sells to customers in the Lake Tahoe area, returned from four days of fishing with nearly 200 salmon weighing more than 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Best trip of the season,” Little said. “It’s been a long time coming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon boom is also welcomed by sport fishermen and the boat operators who take them out to the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the fish are biting, it’s always good for business for us,” said Mike Rescino, who runs a charter boat. “When the people see the big reports, they’re going to come out and go fishing with us.”\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1566505116,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":826},"headData":{"title":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years | KQED","description":"California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years","datePublished":"2019-08-22T17:34:30.000Z","dateModified":"2019-08-22T20:18:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134492 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134492","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/22/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years/","disqusTitle":"Pacific Fishermen Report Best King Salmon Season in Years","nprByline":"Terrence Chea, Associated Press","path":"/bayareabites/134492/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"salmon","num":"2","label":"More on Salmon "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trolling off the California coast, Sarah Bates leans over the side of her boat and pulls out a long, silvery fish prized by anglers and seafood lovers: wild king salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reeling in a fish “feels good every time,” but this year has been surprisingly good, said Bates, a commercial troller based in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and other California fishermen are reporting one of the best salmon fishing seasons in years, thanks to heavy rain and snow that ended the state’s historic drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sharp reversal for chinook salmon, also known as king salmon, an iconic species that helps sustain many Pacific Coast fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Commercial salmon catches have surpassed official preseason forecasts by about 50%, said Kandice Morgenstern, a marine scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. Harvests have been particularly strong in Morro Bay, Monterey and San Francisco, but weaker along California’s northern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re really surprised to be seeing this many fish being landed so far this season,” Morgenstern said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon rebound comes after three years of extremely low catches that resulted from poor ocean conditions and California’s five-year drought, which drained the state’s rivers and reservoirs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past several years, regulators imposed severe fishing restrictions to protect chinook salmon, and officials declared \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/62f6559d8010428699d63e7dcd12ffbe\">federal fishery disasters\u003c/a> in 2018 to assist fishing communities in California, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/s_oZTViacZE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/s_oZTViacZE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Pacific Coast fishermen are reeling in big hauls of wild king salmon after years of weak harvests due to severe drought and poor ocean conditions. The chinook salmon boom is good news for anglers, seafood lovers and coastal fishing communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s adult salmon are the first class to benefit from record rainfall that filled California rivers and streams in early 2017, making it easier for juvenile chinook to migrate to the Pacific Ocean, where they grow into full-size fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinook salmon are also being helped by improved ocean conditions that have produced an abundance of anchovies, krill and other feed. Several years ago, an El Nino event brought unusually warm water to the Pacific Coast and disrupted the marine ecosystem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For the salmon fishermen who’ve been dealing with disaster for so long, this is an incredible boon to their livelihoods,” said Noah Oppenheim, who heads the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strong salmon season, which typically runs from May to October, is positive environmental news at a time of growing anxiety about climate change. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.apnews.com/afb6990efd7c437da19c6d4d9976899c\">United Nations report\u003c/a> released this month warns that global warming threatens food supplies worldwide.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_81655","align":"left","label":"How to Cook Your Salmon "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgenstern says climate change is creating greater fluctuations in ocean and river conditions, making chinook fisheries “less stable, less predictable and more challenging for fishery managers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the chinook salmon now being caught come from the Sacramento River and its tributaries, where they spawn. Many were raised in state-run hatcheries then released into rivers to swim to the ocean. Harvests of chinook from rivers farther north have not been strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For consumers, the bountiful harvest has driven down wild salmon prices to $15 to $20 per pound, compared with $30 to $35 per pound in recent years. Fishermen are making up for the difference by catching more fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The market is dictating right now that there’s a lot of salmon, so the customers don’t have to pay as much,” said Gordon Drysdale, culinary director at Scoma’s, a seafood restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The wharf is one of many California fishing communities now benefiting from the salmon boom. Pier 45, where boats unload their fish, hasn’t been this busy in many years, said Larry Collins, who runs the San Francisco Community Fishing Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year started out with a bang, and it’s just kept banging the whole time,” Collins said. “We’re all really excited and happy the fish showed up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent morning, commercial fisherman Brand Little, who sells to customers in the Lake Tahoe area, returned from four days of fishing with nearly 200 salmon weighing more than 2,000 pounds (907 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Best trip of the season,” Little said. “It’s been a long time coming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salmon boom is also welcomed by sport fishermen and the boat operators who take them out to the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the fish are biting, it’s always good for business for us,” said Mike Rescino, who runs a charter boat. “When the people see the big reports, they’re going to come out and go fishing with us.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134492/pacific-fishermen-report-best-king-salmon-season-in-years","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134492"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10489","bayareabites_836"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134495","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134473":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134473","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134473","score":null,"sort":[1566359881000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china","title":"U.S. Recycling Industry Is Struggling To Figure Out A Future Without China","publishDate":1566359881,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='science_1941477,forum_2010101871721' label='More on Recycling Plastics']\u003cbr>\nThe U.S. used to send a lot of its plastic waste to China to get recycled. But last year, China put the kibosh on imports of the world's waste. The policy, called National Sword, freaked out people in the U.S. — a huge market for plastic waste had just dried up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where was it all going to go now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, executives from big companies that make or package everything from water to toothpaste in plastic met in Washington, D.C. Recyclers and the people who collect and sort trash were there too. It was the whole chain that makes up the plastic pipeline. It was a time of reckoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Caturano of Nestlé Waters North America, which makes bottled water, said plastic is getting a bad reputation. \"The water bottle has in some ways become the mink coat or the pack of cigarettes. It's socially not very acceptable to the young folks, and that scares me,\" he said during a panel called Life After National Sword.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunil Bagaria, who runs recycling company GDB International, took his colleagues to task. \"Forever, we have depended on shipping our scrap overseas,\" he bemoaned. \"Let's stop that.\" European countries, he added, \"are recycling 35% to 40% [of their plastic waste]. The U.S. only recycles 10%. How tragic is that?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a couple of days of this, a woman named Kara Pochiro from the Association of Plastic Recyclers stood up and said not to panic. \"Plastic recycling isn't dead, and it works, and it's important to protecting our environment, and it's essential to the circular economy,\" she reassured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Circular economy\" is now a catchphrase that some say is a way out of the plastic mess. The idea is essentially this: Society needs plastic, but people need to recycle a lot more of it and use it again and again and again. That will eliminate a lot of waste and cut down on the avalanche of new plastic made every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how does circularity actually work? A good place to find out is at a recycling company called TerraCycle in Trenton, N.J. The company's global vice president for research and development is Ernie Simpson. A cheerful man with a Jamaican accent, he works out of a small lab at TerraCycle's headquarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134475\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-offices_enl-48b0bd89ee7e6ef664f17834e0f408b14e2962a4-e1566359369460.jpg\" alt=\"Plastic bottles surround an employee at a workstation inside recycling company TerraCycle's headquarters in Trenton, N.J., in 2017.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134475\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plastic bottles surround an employee at a workstation inside recycling company TerraCycle's headquarters in Trenton, N.J., in 2017. \u003ccite>(David Williams/Bloomberg via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He's also a physicist who's part of a collaboration with Procter & Gamble to turn plastic trash into new products. In his lab, Simpson has an array of very sophisticated and expensive equipment — a Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer and a calorimeter, which use light or heat, respectively, to determine the chemistry of plastic. What goes into those devices is junk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simpson holds up a clear plastic bag. Inside, he says, \"is the famous beach plastic from the ocean\": wrappers, caps, bottles. To recycle any of it, he has to know what kind of plastic each piece is made of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many kinds of plastic are there? \"Ohhhh,\" he sighs. \"Indefinite, just about. There are about 20 different categories of material, but there are blends and there are hybrids.\" Almost all possess their own characteristics, some easily recyclable, many not. Some can be melted down; others shredded mechanically or chemically broken down. They end up as pellets the size of small marbles. These go to fabricators that turn the material back into products.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11714223,news_11768467' align='left' label='More on the Recycling Industry']\u003cbr>\n\"And so that's how the famous Head & Shoulders shampoo bottle was created,\" Simpson says, referring to what P&G calls the \"world's first recyclable shampoo bottle made from beach plastic.\" That's a form of circularity — pouring old plastic into new bottles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a catch though. \"This particular one,\" Simpson says of the beach plastic, \"is probably three times as expensive as virgin\" — virgin being brand-new plastic made straight from oil and gas out of the ground. This is one of the obstacles to circularity: It costs a lot. There's not a lot of money to be made from recycling to begin with, and it's tough for recycled plastic to compete with virgin plastic made cheap by the boom in U.S. oil and gas production. And there aren't nearly enough recyclers in the U.S. to handle the tsunami of new plastic pouring out of the petrochemical industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1893px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c.jpg\" alt=\"Material collected by TerraCycle is shredded for processing.\" width=\"1893\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134476\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c.jpg 1893w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-800x456.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-768x438.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-1020x582.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-1200x685.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1893px) 100vw, 1893px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Material collected by TerraCycle is shredded for processing. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of TerraCycle)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a.jpg\" alt=\"Collected material, including plastic, is baled at TerraCycle.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134477\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collected material, including plastic, is baled at TerraCycle. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of TerraCycle)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recycling is the underdog,\" says Keefe Harrison, CEO of the Recycling Partnership, a nonprofit that seeks to boost the industry. \"We're fighting an uphill battle to make it cost competitive from day one.\" One problem, she says, is the U.S. outsourced so much of its recycling to Asia that the domestic industry languished. And there's the fact that plastic manufacturers keep making more and more of it, and consumer brands like Procter & Gamble, Nestlé and Walmart keep wrapping more consumer goods in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harrison explains: \"So we've got these companies producing this new packaging and new materials and new plastics in such a scientific- and business-driven way, and then [they] rely on the disjointed network that is recycling to get it back. And [recycling] is not robust.\" That's an assessment shared by others, such as global financial analysis company IHS Markit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several petrochemical companies have joined big consumer brands in pledging to make most of their plastic recyclable, reusable or compostable within the next decade or two. Their group, Alliance to End Plastic Waste, has promised to spend $1.5 billion over five years to do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as environmental groups like Greenpeace and Break Free From Plastic point out, just because something can technically be recycled doesn't mean it will be. There has to be an industry robust enough to do it — and a profit at the end of the day. And, they say, building up recycling allows plastic producers to keep making 300 million tons of new plastic every year (half of which is for single use) and to put the burden of cleaning up the waste on someone else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pochiro, of the Association of Plastic Recyclers, says recycling does need help — from consumers, for example. \"We're trying to make consumers understand that recycling isn't just about putting your container in the bin,\" she says. \"You also need to buy recycled,\" meaning products that contain recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a growing market for such products, stuff like bottles, clothing, packaging or bags, for example. But it's tough to compete against cheap virgin plastic. Recycling companies need huge investments, and to get that, they have to show they have a market for their products. And for that, Pochiro says, they need commitments — voluntary or mandated by law — by consumer goods companies to buy recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a recycler can't be confident enough that they have a market for at least maybe six months to a year,\" she says, \"then they aren't going to want to make that investment in their own facilities\" to make more recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's a disconnect underlying all this talk by the plastics industry to help recyclers and the circular economy of plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A report from ICIS, a plastics market research company, says the petrochemical industry will likely double its plastic manufacturing capacity from 2016 to 2024. And the American Chemistry Council, which represents, among others, plastics manufacturers, says it expects industry to spend nearly $25 billion to build new plastic manufacturing capacity by 2025. (That compares with the $1.5 billion that the industry plans to spend on cleaning up plastic waste.) The World Economic Forum has issued a report on plastic that predicts a doubling of production in the next two decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing driving that growth is the belief that demand for petroleum-based fuels will decline — the oil and gas industry is looking to produce more plastics from petrochemicals to take up the slack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if a new circular plastics economy recycles — that is, reuses — more \u003cem>old\u003c/em> plastic, why is the petrochemical industry spending billions of dollars for a boom in \u003cem>new\u003c/em> plastic? Where is all that new plastic going to go? It seems the industry isn't too worried. The American Chemistry Council's analysis includes this statement about new plastic: \"In a virtuous cycle, as the manufacturing renaissance accelerates, demand for plastic products will be generated, reinforcing resin [raw plastic] demand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essentially, go ahead and make it, and people will find a way to use it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/08/20/750864036/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"China is no longer taking the world's waste. The U.S. recycling industry is overwhelmed — it can't keep up with the plastic being churned out. This doesn't bode well for our plastic waste problem.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1566359881,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1497},"headData":{"title":"U.S. Recycling Industry Is Struggling To Figure Out A Future Without China | KQED","description":"China is no longer taking the world's waste. The U.S. recycling industry is overwhelmed — it can't keep up with the plastic being churned out. This doesn't bode well for our plastic waste problem.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"U.S. Recycling Industry Is Struggling To Figure Out A Future Without China","datePublished":"2019-08-21T03:58:01.000Z","dateModified":"2019-08-21T03:58:01.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134473 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134473","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/20/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china/","disqusTitle":"U.S. Recycling Industry Is Struggling To Figure Out A Future Without China","nprImageCredit":"Saul Loeb","nprByline":"Christopher Joyce, All Things Considered","nprImageAgency":"AFP/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"750864036","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=750864036&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/2019/08/20/750864036/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china?ft=nprml&f=750864036","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2019 20:10:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2019 15:27:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2019 20:14:02 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2019/08/20190820_atc_us_recycling_industry_is_struggling_to_figure_out_a_future_without_china.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1007&aggIds=684530164&d=317&p=2&story=750864036&ft=nprml&f=750864036","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1752882698-5f2771.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1007&aggIds=684530164&d=317&p=2&story=750864036&ft=nprml&f=750864036","path":"/bayareabites/134473/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2019/08/20190820_atc_us_recycling_industry_is_struggling_to_figure_out_a_future_without_china.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1007&aggIds=684530164&d=317&p=2&story=750864036&ft=nprml&f=750864036","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"science_1941477,forum_2010101871721","label":"More on Recycling Plastics "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThe U.S. used to send a lot of its plastic waste to China to get recycled. But last year, China put the kibosh on imports of the world's waste. The policy, called National Sword, freaked out people in the U.S. — a huge market for plastic waste had just dried up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where was it all going to go now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, executives from big companies that make or package everything from water to toothpaste in plastic met in Washington, D.C. Recyclers and the people who collect and sort trash were there too. It was the whole chain that makes up the plastic pipeline. It was a time of reckoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Caturano of Nestlé Waters North America, which makes bottled water, said plastic is getting a bad reputation. \"The water bottle has in some ways become the mink coat or the pack of cigarettes. It's socially not very acceptable to the young folks, and that scares me,\" he said during a panel called Life After National Sword.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunil Bagaria, who runs recycling company GDB International, took his colleagues to task. \"Forever, we have depended on shipping our scrap overseas,\" he bemoaned. \"Let's stop that.\" European countries, he added, \"are recycling 35% to 40% [of their plastic waste]. The U.S. only recycles 10%. How tragic is that?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a couple of days of this, a woman named Kara Pochiro from the Association of Plastic Recyclers stood up and said not to panic. \"Plastic recycling isn't dead, and it works, and it's important to protecting our environment, and it's essential to the circular economy,\" she reassured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Circular economy\" is now a catchphrase that some say is a way out of the plastic mess. The idea is essentially this: Society needs plastic, but people need to recycle a lot more of it and use it again and again and again. That will eliminate a lot of waste and cut down on the avalanche of new plastic made every year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how does circularity actually work? A good place to find out is at a recycling company called TerraCycle in Trenton, N.J. The company's global vice president for research and development is Ernie Simpson. A cheerful man with a Jamaican accent, he works out of a small lab at TerraCycle's headquarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134475\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-offices_enl-48b0bd89ee7e6ef664f17834e0f408b14e2962a4-e1566359369460.jpg\" alt=\"Plastic bottles surround an employee at a workstation inside recycling company TerraCycle's headquarters in Trenton, N.J., in 2017.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134475\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plastic bottles surround an employee at a workstation inside recycling company TerraCycle's headquarters in Trenton, N.J., in 2017. \u003ccite>(David Williams/Bloomberg via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He's also a physicist who's part of a collaboration with Procter & Gamble to turn plastic trash into new products. In his lab, Simpson has an array of very sophisticated and expensive equipment — a Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer and a calorimeter, which use light or heat, respectively, to determine the chemistry of plastic. What goes into those devices is junk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simpson holds up a clear plastic bag. Inside, he says, \"is the famous beach plastic from the ocean\": wrappers, caps, bottles. To recycle any of it, he has to know what kind of plastic each piece is made of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many kinds of plastic are there? \"Ohhhh,\" he sighs. \"Indefinite, just about. There are about 20 different categories of material, but there are blends and there are hybrids.\" Almost all possess their own characteristics, some easily recyclable, many not. Some can be melted down; others shredded mechanically or chemically broken down. They end up as pellets the size of small marbles. These go to fabricators that turn the material back into products.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11714223,news_11768467","align":"left","label":"More on the Recycling Industry "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\"And so that's how the famous Head & Shoulders shampoo bottle was created,\" Simpson says, referring to what P&G calls the \"world's first recyclable shampoo bottle made from beach plastic.\" That's a form of circularity — pouring old plastic into new bottles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a catch though. \"This particular one,\" Simpson says of the beach plastic, \"is probably three times as expensive as virgin\" — virgin being brand-new plastic made straight from oil and gas out of the ground. This is one of the obstacles to circularity: It costs a lot. There's not a lot of money to be made from recycling to begin with, and it's tough for recycled plastic to compete with virgin plastic made cheap by the boom in U.S. oil and gas production. And there aren't nearly enough recyclers in the U.S. to handle the tsunami of new plastic pouring out of the petrochemical industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1893px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c.jpg\" alt=\"Material collected by TerraCycle is shredded for processing.\" width=\"1893\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134476\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c.jpg 1893w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-800x456.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-768x438.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-1020x582.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-2_enl-791fc7ad00b2af7bc497fd6630dfe93a64d0736c-1200x685.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1893px) 100vw, 1893px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Material collected by TerraCycle is shredded for processing. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of TerraCycle)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134477\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a.jpg\" alt=\"Collected material, including plastic, is baled at TerraCycle.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134477\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/terracycle-3_enl-ff129b0f2f05d93c384f9625f5eb6d6d213b9a2a-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collected material, including plastic, is baled at TerraCycle. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of TerraCycle)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recycling is the underdog,\" says Keefe Harrison, CEO of the Recycling Partnership, a nonprofit that seeks to boost the industry. \"We're fighting an uphill battle to make it cost competitive from day one.\" One problem, she says, is the U.S. outsourced so much of its recycling to Asia that the domestic industry languished. And there's the fact that plastic manufacturers keep making more and more of it, and consumer brands like Procter & Gamble, Nestlé and Walmart keep wrapping more consumer goods in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harrison explains: \"So we've got these companies producing this new packaging and new materials and new plastics in such a scientific- and business-driven way, and then [they] rely on the disjointed network that is recycling to get it back. And [recycling] is not robust.\" That's an assessment shared by others, such as global financial analysis company IHS Markit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several petrochemical companies have joined big consumer brands in pledging to make most of their plastic recyclable, reusable or compostable within the next decade or two. Their group, Alliance to End Plastic Waste, has promised to spend $1.5 billion over five years to do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as environmental groups like Greenpeace and Break Free From Plastic point out, just because something can technically be recycled doesn't mean it will be. There has to be an industry robust enough to do it — and a profit at the end of the day. And, they say, building up recycling allows plastic producers to keep making 300 million tons of new plastic every year (half of which is for single use) and to put the burden of cleaning up the waste on someone else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pochiro, of the Association of Plastic Recyclers, says recycling does need help — from consumers, for example. \"We're trying to make consumers understand that recycling isn't just about putting your container in the bin,\" she says. \"You also need to buy recycled,\" meaning products that contain recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a growing market for such products, stuff like bottles, clothing, packaging or bags, for example. But it's tough to compete against cheap virgin plastic. Recycling companies need huge investments, and to get that, they have to show they have a market for their products. And for that, Pochiro says, they need commitments — voluntary or mandated by law — by consumer goods companies to buy recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a recycler can't be confident enough that they have a market for at least maybe six months to a year,\" she says, \"then they aren't going to want to make that investment in their own facilities\" to make more recycled plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's a disconnect underlying all this talk by the plastics industry to help recyclers and the circular economy of plastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A report from ICIS, a plastics market research company, says the petrochemical industry will likely double its plastic manufacturing capacity from 2016 to 2024. And the American Chemistry Council, which represents, among others, plastics manufacturers, says it expects industry to spend nearly $25 billion to build new plastic manufacturing capacity by 2025. (That compares with the $1.5 billion that the industry plans to spend on cleaning up plastic waste.) The World Economic Forum has issued a report on plastic that predicts a doubling of production in the next two decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing driving that growth is the belief that demand for petroleum-based fuels will decline — the oil and gas industry is looking to produce more plastics from petrochemicals to take up the slack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if a new circular plastics economy recycles — that is, reuses — more \u003cem>old\u003c/em> plastic, why is the petrochemical industry spending billions of dollars for a boom in \u003cem>new\u003c/em> plastic? Where is all that new plastic going to go? It seems the industry isn't too worried. The American Chemistry Council's analysis includes this statement about new plastic: \"In a virtuous cycle, as the manufacturing renaissance accelerates, demand for plastic products will be generated, reinforcing resin [raw plastic] demand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essentially, go ahead and make it, and people will find a way to use it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/08/20/750864036/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134473/u-s-recycling-industry-is-struggling-to-figure-out-a-future-without-china","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134473"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_16430","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_15351","bayareabites_14756"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134474","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134460":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134460","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134460","score":null,"sort":[1565976736000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future","title":"Devastating Banana Fungus Arrives In Colombia, Threatening The Fruit's Future","publishDate":1565976736,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_105848' label='More on Tropical Race 4']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest fears of the fresh fruit industry just came true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fungal disease that has been destroying banana plantations in Asia has arrived in Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For me, the worst moment was [seeing] the first pictures,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.keygene.com/news-events/keygenes-tr4-expert-coordinates-diagnostics-on-samples-from-suspected-colombian-banana-farms/\">Fernando Alexander García-Bastidas\u003c/a>, a banana researcher at the Dutch company Keygene, who carried out tests confirming what had happened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some farmers in Colombia, where García-Bastidas grew up, sent him photos of their banana plants two months ago. The plants were turning yellow and wilting, as if they didn't have water. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>García-Bastidas recognized the symptoms. He'd seen them before, in devastated banana plantations in the Philippines. These are the effects of a fungus called \u003cem>Fusarium\u003c/em>. But the implications were devastating, and García-Bastidas hoped he was wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I felt this thing in my heart that was like kind of praying for a false positive, or something like that,\" García-Bastidas recalls. \"It was terrible\" — and doubly distressing because it affected his homeland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the next month, he says, he had trouble sleeping. He flew to Colombia, collected samples of the wilting plants and tested them. The results confirmed his fears. The plants were infected with a variant of \u003cem>Fusarium \u003c/em>fungus called \u003ca href=\"http://www.promusa.org/Tropical+race+4+-+TR4\">Tropical Race 4\u003c/a>, or TR4.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TR4 \u003ca href=\"http://www.promusa.org/Tropical+race+4+-+TR4#Distribution\">began marching\u003c/a> through the world's banana-growing countries in the 1990s. First detected in Taiwan, it moved to Malaysia and Indonesia, then jumped to China, Australia and the Philippines. It showed up in Mozambique, in Africa, five years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People involved in banana production or research have taken extreme measures to prevent it from spreading. When García-Bastidas visits an area where the fungus is present, he'll buy a new pair of shoes before entering another banana-growing region to avoid bringing in a speck of fungus-contaminated soil. The main international conference on banana research no longer takes place in any banana-growing country, to reduce the risk that the fungus might hitch a ride with one of the researchers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow, though, it has now hopped the ocean and arrived in Latin America. García-Bastidas says he expected it would happen someday, but not so quickly. \"It's very difficult to control the spread of this disease,\" he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Fusarium \u003c/em>fungus lives in the soil. No one knows how to eradicate it or to treat infected plants. It invades banana plants through their roots and then blocks the vessels that carry water and nutrients, starving the plants. It kills most members of the banana family, including the variety called Cavendish that accounts for the vast majority of bananas traded internationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colombian authorities have declared a national emergency and launched efforts to contain the fungus. Banana growers are destroying all banana plants anywhere near a plant that shows symptoms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They may be too late, though. By the time symptoms appear, the fungus has already been present in the soil around that plant for at least a year. During that time, people may have been walking through the farms, perhaps picking up bits of fungus on their shoes and spreading it. \"I hope I'm wrong, but most likely it spread already to other places,\" says García-Bastidas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only good news may be that the disaster will unfold slowly. It can take years or decades for the fungus to move across entire countries or continents. In Asia, individual farms have been devastated, but many of the affected countries remain major banana producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, researchers are trying \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/01/11/462375558/our-favorite-banana-may-be-doomed-can-new-varieties-replace-it\">desperately to find a new kind of banana\u003c/a> that can survive Tropical Race 4.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists in Australia have created a fungus-resistant variety using genetic engineering. It's still being tested and would require government approval before it could be grown or sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other scientists are looking through nature's storehouse. When García-Bastidas was a graduate student at Wageningen University, in the Netherlands, he tested 300 different members of the banana family. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, 80% of the [varieties] that I tested were susceptible to TR4,\" he says. \"But there is a little bit of hope with the other ones that were not susceptible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of those fungus-resistant plants are ready to replace the bananas that currently fill supermarket shelves. Most of them are cooking bananas, or plantains. Others are wild bananas with tiny fruit that's inedible; the pods are full of seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hope, however, is that plant breeders can take these plants and cross-pollinate them, mating them with other, more commercially viable bananas, reshuffling the genes to create new varieties that are both delicious and immune to TR4. The company where García-Bastidas now works, \u003ca href=\"https://www.keygene.com/\">Keygene\u003c/a>, is one of the research centers pursuing this goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeding bananas is so complicated that few people have ever tried it. For one thing, it takes bananas with seed-filled fruit, since those seeds represent the new genetic combinations that plant breeders want. Yet those seeds can't appear in the fruit of a commercial variety. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>García-Bastidas says the task is very difficult. But it is possible. And now it's necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/08/16/751499719/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A fungus that has destroyed banana plantations in Asia is now in Latin America. The disease moves slowly, but there's no cure, and it could mean calamity for the continent's banana industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1565976736,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":886},"headData":{"title":"Devastating Banana Fungus Arrives In Colombia, Threatening The Fruit's Future | KQED","description":"A fungus that has destroyed banana plantations in Asia is now in Latin America. The disease moves slowly, but there's no cure, and it could mean calamity for the continent's banana industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Devastating Banana Fungus Arrives In Colombia, Threatening The Fruit's Future","datePublished":"2019-08-16T17:32:16.000Z","dateModified":"2019-08-16T17:32:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134460 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134460","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/16/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future/","disqusTitle":"Devastating Banana Fungus Arrives In Colombia, Threatening The Fruit's Future","nprImageCredit":"Jan Sochor","nprByline":"Dan Charles, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"LatinContent via Getty Images","nprStoryId":"751499719","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=751499719&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/08/16/751499719/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future?ft=nprml&f=751499719","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 16 Aug 2019 11:48:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 16 Aug 2019 09:39:57 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 16 Aug 2019 11:48:56 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/134460/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_105848","label":"More on Tropical Race 4 "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest fears of the fresh fruit industry just came true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fungal disease that has been destroying banana plantations in Asia has arrived in Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For me, the worst moment was [seeing] the first pictures,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.keygene.com/news-events/keygenes-tr4-expert-coordinates-diagnostics-on-samples-from-suspected-colombian-banana-farms/\">Fernando Alexander García-Bastidas\u003c/a>, a banana researcher at the Dutch company Keygene, who carried out tests confirming what had happened.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some farmers in Colombia, where García-Bastidas grew up, sent him photos of their banana plants two months ago. The plants were turning yellow and wilting, as if they didn't have water. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>García-Bastidas recognized the symptoms. He'd seen them before, in devastated banana plantations in the Philippines. These are the effects of a fungus called \u003cem>Fusarium\u003c/em>. But the implications were devastating, and García-Bastidas hoped he was wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I felt this thing in my heart that was like kind of praying for a false positive, or something like that,\" García-Bastidas recalls. \"It was terrible\" — and doubly distressing because it affected his homeland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the next month, he says, he had trouble sleeping. He flew to Colombia, collected samples of the wilting plants and tested them. The results confirmed his fears. The plants were infected with a variant of \u003cem>Fusarium \u003c/em>fungus called \u003ca href=\"http://www.promusa.org/Tropical+race+4+-+TR4\">Tropical Race 4\u003c/a>, or TR4.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TR4 \u003ca href=\"http://www.promusa.org/Tropical+race+4+-+TR4#Distribution\">began marching\u003c/a> through the world's banana-growing countries in the 1990s. First detected in Taiwan, it moved to Malaysia and Indonesia, then jumped to China, Australia and the Philippines. It showed up in Mozambique, in Africa, five years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People involved in banana production or research have taken extreme measures to prevent it from spreading. When García-Bastidas visits an area where the fungus is present, he'll buy a new pair of shoes before entering another banana-growing region to avoid bringing in a speck of fungus-contaminated soil. The main international conference on banana research no longer takes place in any banana-growing country, to reduce the risk that the fungus might hitch a ride with one of the researchers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow, though, it has now hopped the ocean and arrived in Latin America. García-Bastidas says he expected it would happen someday, but not so quickly. \"It's very difficult to control the spread of this disease,\" he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Fusarium \u003c/em>fungus lives in the soil. No one knows how to eradicate it or to treat infected plants. It invades banana plants through their roots and then blocks the vessels that carry water and nutrients, starving the plants. It kills most members of the banana family, including the variety called Cavendish that accounts for the vast majority of bananas traded internationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colombian authorities have declared a national emergency and launched efforts to contain the fungus. Banana growers are destroying all banana plants anywhere near a plant that shows symptoms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They may be too late, though. By the time symptoms appear, the fungus has already been present in the soil around that plant for at least a year. During that time, people may have been walking through the farms, perhaps picking up bits of fungus on their shoes and spreading it. \"I hope I'm wrong, but most likely it spread already to other places,\" says García-Bastidas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only good news may be that the disaster will unfold slowly. It can take years or decades for the fungus to move across entire countries or continents. In Asia, individual farms have been devastated, but many of the affected countries remain major banana producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, researchers are trying \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/01/11/462375558/our-favorite-banana-may-be-doomed-can-new-varieties-replace-it\">desperately to find a new kind of banana\u003c/a> that can survive Tropical Race 4.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists in Australia have created a fungus-resistant variety using genetic engineering. It's still being tested and would require government approval before it could be grown or sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other scientists are looking through nature's storehouse. When García-Bastidas was a graduate student at Wageningen University, in the Netherlands, he tested 300 different members of the banana family. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately, 80% of the [varieties] that I tested were susceptible to TR4,\" he says. \"But there is a little bit of hope with the other ones that were not susceptible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of those fungus-resistant plants are ready to replace the bananas that currently fill supermarket shelves. Most of them are cooking bananas, or plantains. Others are wild bananas with tiny fruit that's inedible; the pods are full of seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hope, however, is that plant breeders can take these plants and cross-pollinate them, mating them with other, more commercially viable bananas, reshuffling the genes to create new varieties that are both delicious and immune to TR4. The company where García-Bastidas now works, \u003ca href=\"https://www.keygene.com/\">Keygene\u003c/a>, is one of the research centers pursuing this goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeding bananas is so complicated that few people have ever tried it. For one thing, it takes bananas with seed-filled fruit, since those seeds represent the new genetic combinations that plant breeders want. Yet those seeds can't appear in the fruit of a commercial variety. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>García-Bastidas says the task is very difficult. But it is possible. And now it's necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/08/16/751499719/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134460/devastating-banana-fungus-arrives-in-colombia-threatening-the-fruits-future","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134460"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_129","bayareabites_2203","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134461","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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