BBQ with the Oakland Fire Department
At the 2nd annual Bay Area BBQ Championship ahead of the A’s game against the Mariners this Saturday, you’ll see celebrity chefs like Dr. BBQ (aka Ray Lampe). You’ll see celebrity baseball stars like Jonny Gomes.
You may have to seek out the Oakland Fire Department’s corner of the People’s Choice category. But having tasted what Station 12 is bringing, I recommend looking for it, and saving some space.

Yes, but you should see the Wolf in the kitchen. Photo: KQED/Rachael Myrow
Lieutenant James Patrick Troy — or “JP” — out of Oakland Fire Station 12 says the firefighters aren’t bringing a lot of, em, heat to the competition. But firefighters famously eat well, and Station 12 in Chinatown is no exception. Troy’s team, the “Dragonslayers,” features at least two guys with experience working in restaurants.

Top Chef Zach Fraser with wok in Firehouse kitchen. Photo: KQED/Polly Stryker
The team’s Top Chef is Zach Fraser, who knows enough Cantonese to shop in Chinatown. To say that a white guy speaking Cantonese charms the shop keepers is an understatement. They beam at him. “Jo San!” he calls out as he enters Yuen Hop on Webster, and the cashier calls back “Joooo Saaan!”
Fraser winces at the phrase “Asian-style,” but it’s a fair description of the way he cooks. And it fairly describes the menu he’s putting together for Saturday: marinated chicken seared on the grill, topped with black sesame seeds and a sweet, sour sauce made with plums. Plus a side of coleslaw with an “Asian” (sorry, Zach) take on Green Goddess dressing.
Now I have to admit, I was kinda hoping for tri-tip and Caesar Salad. After all, Saturday night is traditionally Steak and Caesar Night with the Oakland Fire Department.
But the Chef has his reasons. Since the firefighters, their union and the Championship organizers are forking out for the food, red meat for hordes of people is a tad expensive. Also, the romaine lettuce in Chinatown is not always up to snuff. Like any cook worth his salt, Fraser makes something delicious out of what’s available. And as it happens, plums are in season.
Listen to Zach Fraser in action:
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Zach making use of a bunch of plums straight off his father-in-law’s tree. Photo: KQED/Polly Stryker
Here are the recipes. Fraser doesn’t do portion sizes — everything is to taste, so adjust accordingly…
Recipe: Chicken Marinade
Ingredients:
Skinless chicken thighs
Soy Sauce
Seasoned Rice Vinegar
Sesame Oil
Sriracha Sauce
Chinese five spice powder
Shredded fresh ginger
Shredded fresh garlic
Chopped green onions
Instructions:
Mix everything but the chicken in a bowl. Then put the raw chicken in. Let sit for 45 minutes to 2 hours.

Marinade does double duty as a basting sauce when the chicken hits the grill. Photo: KQED/Polly Styker
Recipe: Dragonslayer Chinatown BBQ Sauce
Ingredients:
Onions
Garlic
Ginger
Ketchup
Tsingtao beer
Splash of rice wine vinegar
Hoisin sauce
Soy sauce
Plum sauce
Fresh plums if in season
Five-spice
Instructions:
Saute onion, garlic and ginger until soft. Deglaze with beer (if not cooking at a firehouse, where all alcohol is forbidden.) Add all other ingredients and cook down until it thickens. Check your flavors and adjust to taste. Push sauce through a sieve. Great on pork as well as chicken.
Recipe: Coleslaw dressing
Ingredients:
Rice wine vinegar
Toasted sesame oil
Canola or other neutral oil
Soy sauce
Cilantro
Avocado
Cabbage
Carrots
Toasted sesame seeds
Instructions:
Blend all ingredients except for the seeds, cilantro and half the avocado, which lends a nice creaminess to the dressing. After you’ve shredded your cabbage and carrots, toss with sliced avocado, chopped cilantro and dressing. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top.

The final dish. Photo: KQED/Rachael Myrow
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