Passover Inspiration with 12 Tribes Food

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Orange Custard. Photos by Rebecca Joseph, courtesy of 12 Tribes Kosher Foods.
Orange Custard. Photo by Rebecca Joseph

Happy Passover! What are you cooking? Passover, even more than Thanksgiving, is a home and family holiday. Of course, there are restaurants doing Seder-inspired meals; in San Francisco, Passover at Delfina brings their Edible Seder Plate, Stoll Family Matzoh Balls, and other Italian-Jewish specialties, all much anticipated by regulars. This year, they’ll be serving matzoh made by their former sous-chef, Brad Joffe, who now runs Beauty’s Bagels in Oakland, source of the excellent weekend bagels at Wise Sons. (And by the way, pastrami lovers, Wise Sons is closed for Passover; they’ll re-open on Sunday, April 15.)

Firefly has a delish-sounding brisket and root-vegetable tsimmes on this week’s menu, along with a spring vegetable plate with matzoh kugel and yellowfoot-mushroom sauce. (And for those who don’t mind a little trayf, don’t worry, they’ve still got the shrimp-and-scallop dumplings on the menu.)

But for many of us, Passover is a time to slow down, reconnect with family and friends over dinners at home, and pay attention to what we’re eating. Jewish dietary laws forbid the eating of grains during the 8-day holiday, especially anything yeasted or naturally leavened. So, no bread, no bagels, no pasta, no rice, just matzoh, a flat cracker that must be mixed and baked in less than 18 minutes, to prevent any natural rising of the dough from occurring. So, much kvetching can be heard this week from toast-lovers like myself, and, for those with a sweet tooth, a whole lot of dependance on ground nuts and matzoh meal in lieu of flour, plus whisked egg whites for fluffiness.

However, Rebecca Joseph, rabbi and owner of 12 Tribes Food, a kosher catering and prepared-meals business, looks at the holiday’s restrictions with abundance in mind.

“What I suggest to people who say that they dread the holiday because they can’t eat bread is to think of this as a time to celebrate freedom from habitual food choices or ways of eating that may be less than optimally healthful. Also, when we focus on all the things we can eat, especially early spring produce, then Passover meals can be really delicious and seasonal.”

Joseph describes her Orange Custard recipe, below, as “a very easy dessert (no separating eggs or weird ingredients involved) that’s a great break from nuts and matzoh meal. It’s also parve (containing neither meat nor dairy), so it’s good for people who are lactose intolerant, gluten-free and/or have nut sensitivities.”

For those of you, like myself, who have had egg-separating mishaps and fallen-spongecake disasters, this recipe couldn’t be simpler. Only three very basic ingredients, no whisking, no folding. A splash of orange-flower water would probably add a lovely perfumey touch. With the money you’re not spending on coconut macaroons in a can, get really fresh, gold-yolked eggs from happy, pasture-raised chickens. Joseph dresses her custard up with lightly toasted coconut shards, but you can also get crazy and let your guests dive into David Lebovitz’s toffee-licious Chocolate-Covered Caramelized Matzoh Crunch as well.

Orange Custard. Photos by Rebecca Joseph, courtesy of 12 Tribes Kosher Foods.
Orange Custard. Photo by Rebecca Joseph

Recipe: Orange Custard
Recipe courtesy of 12 Tribes Food

Made from just eggs, sugar, and orange juice, this easy dessert takes just a few minutes to put together. Unlike a typical baked custard, it contains no dairy, so it can served as dessert after a meat meal by those following kosher dietary laws.

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30-35 minutes
Total Time: 40-45 minutes
Yield: 6 custards

Ingredients
5 large eggs
1/3 cup sugar
2 cups fresh orange juice

    Preparation

  1. Preheat the oven to 325° F. In a small pot, heat orange juice until lukewarm.
  2. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a fork until well blended. Beat in the sugar. To produce a smooth, creamy custard, the mixture should be well combined, but not frothy. Slowly add the orange juice, beating to combine.
  3. Pour 1/2 cup of the custard mixture into each of 6 ramekins. Place the ramekins in a large pan and pour enough boiling water into the pan to come about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
  4. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until just set. Remove the ramekins from the pan of hot water. Cool for 30 minutes, then refrigerate. Serve chilled.
  5. Serves 6.
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Category: asian food and drink, baking and bakeries, bay area, Bay Area Bites Food + Drink, dessert and chocolate, holidays and traditions, local food businesses, recipes

About the Author ()

Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.
  • Organicsleep

    wow! Three Ingredients! I could do this!

  • aan cowsky

    I need to try this recipe. I was thinking to add some extra strawberries on top of orange custard. And with ice cream. Oh that would be my best dessert ever :)
    Thanks for the recipe. As this is so easy to make, I need to make it now so I can serve it chilled tonight. Perfect!

    http://howtomakesweetpotatofries.org/