Ruth Reichl is one of the most influential names in food. Her storied career includes stints at the Los Angeles Times as a restaurant critic and food editor, as well as the restaurant critic for the New York Times. She is also the author of five bestselling books, the recipient of six James Beard Awards, and spent 10 years as the Editor-in-chief of the now defunct Gourmet magazine.

But as any resilient woman will tell you, when one door closes, a few other doors open. She’s now an editor-at-large for the mega-publisher, Random House, is currently writing three new books, and on April 6th, will make her debut as one of the new judges on Top Chef Masters.

She was kind enough to carve out some time to chat with me while on a recent trip to Palo Alto for a speaking engagement. I asked her about how life has changed since the closing of Gourmet magazine, how she feels about food bloggers, and what she really thinks about Ruth Bourdain.

ELAINE: What was life like after Gourmet magazine shut its doors?
RUTH: At first I thought, “Oh my God, I’ll never have another job!” and I immediately made a deal to write three books, which I’m working on, and that’s great. I’m finishing my first fiction novel, and I promised to write a cookbook and then a memoir about my time at Gourmet and its closing.

But then about eight months after the magazine closed, I was literally getting a job offer a day. The most interesting is one I can’t talk about. Let’s just say it’ll be the food magazine of my dreams. I’m very lucky. (NOTE: We know now that Ms. Reichl will be running the Gilt Groupe’s “Gilt Taste” website.)

ELAINE: And you’re going to be on Top Chef Masters! What made you want to take that offer?

RUTH: I just thought it would be fun! I was kind of curious about how reality shows worked and it seemed like a learning experience. But I had already agreed to be a fellow at Dartmouth, so I’m not in every single episode.

ELAINE: What was the experience like?

RUTH: Top Chef Masters was such a surprise. They could not have been more passionate and respectful of the chefs, judges, guests and I loved every minute of it. And they take it all very seriously. I thought the judges would surely have to lean on the producers to make the decisions about who gets cut, and the producer probably would’ve liked a different outcome in some cases, but I never heard it from them.

And Curtis Stone (the new host) is so good looking, you’d think he had to be an idiot. But he’s so smart and has a heart of gold. He’s honestly one of the sweetest people I’ve ever met. He insisted on cooking for the entire crew a multi-course meal after the show wrapped. He’s totally for real. I was so sorry when it was all over. It felt like family. You really get to know everyone. It’s very intimate.

ELAINE: What are your thoughts on the new Gourmet Live app for the iPad?

RUTH: …I’m not going to say. It is what it is.

ELAINE: What do you think about the new generation of food bloggers? Are they changing the landscape of food writing in general?

RUTH: A lot of them are really, really good. I think it’s changed for restaurant critiquing in particular. You can read 30 reviews and make up your mind yourself. A professional restaurant critic’s word shouldn’t matter that much. People should bring their own intelligence to it. What real criticism should do is give you a better way to appreciate food and give you the tools you need to enhance your experience, good or bad. And food bloggers have put the burden back on the professionals to be good educators and good writers, and maybe even be a little bit more humble about their own opinions.

ELAINE: You’re fairly active on Twitter. Why do you use it?

RUTH: I just don’t have time to keep up with so many blogs. But if someone I follow on Twitter tells me to read something on a blog, I will! I love the social and political aspects. There are people I don’t see much but I keep up with them on Twitter. And as a writer, I feel like there’s a voice that I didn’t know I had using Twitter. There’s a real discipline to putting something into 140 characters. I’m trying to actually make a word picture in 140 characters and it’s been really fun for me. It turns out to be a very natural voice for me.

ELAINE: What do you think of Ruth Bourdain getting nominated for a James Beard Award this year for Humor?

RUTH: I think it’s great! I agree with Tony Bourdain! If we can’t have fun with food, what are we gonna have fun with? I hope he/she wins so they’ll have to get up and accept the award!

But I actually think it’s a “he,” and I don’t think it’s any of the people that have been talked about. I think all the theories about who this person is are all wrong.

ELAINE: As a former Bay Area resident, what do you miss about the area?
RUTH: At the moment, if you go to the farmers market in New York there’s not much. In the Bay Area you’re spoiled with fresh produce year round. I really miss that. And there’s an incredible energy with farmers and food producers here. There’s a great artisan food community here that you don’t get anywhere else.

Just a few short weeks ago, the world witnessed massive devastation in Japan. With heart-wrenching photos pouring in, first of a magnitude 9 earthquake, followed by a terrifying tsunami, then a nuclear meltdown, it's hard not to feel helpless, and so small.

Then again, a few small things really can add up. Around the globe, good people have been using the skills and resources they have to help in whatever way they can -- fundraisers, volunteering, even a Twitter-sourced charity book is in the works. Web designer Sabrina Modelle turned to her own skill set, and that of her fellow food bloggers, when she put out the Twitter call for an Online Bake Sale to aid Japan. Nearly 90 bloggers and bakers from 9 countries responded. The search for a corporation willing to match any part of the money raised was looking bleak. At the eleventh hour Andrew Sigal of The Uncarved Block stepped up to match the first $500 raised. Any other takers?

Modelle commented,

"While I am hell-bent on raising as much money as we possibly can for Japan, I find myself reflecting most on how grateful I am to be a part of a community that is so quick to graciously and generously give whatever they can to people in need."

So, how does it work? Today, for one day only, visit Modelle's blog, The Tomato Tart, to bid on delectable homemade goods from the blogger of your choice. Score the winning bid and you'll receive a shipment from your personal baker within two weeks. All proceeds will go to Second Harvest Japan, a food bank currently responding on the ground to the needs of people displaced by the earthquake and tsunami.

To whet your appetite (and loosen your purse strings), here are a few snapshots of items being offered by some Bay Area bloggers:

Photo from Kitchen Em

Emiko from Kitchen Em will be baking up a batch of her Matcha & Raspberry Flower Honey Madeleines. These pretty little cakes are infused with a subtle touch of pungent matcha tea, layered with the floral sweetness of local Napa-sourced honey.

Photo from Lemons and Anchovies

Jean from Lemons and Anchovies will be satisfying choco-chili addicts with her almost flourless Chocolate Chili Bites. The bites are rich and dense, and the deep choco-late flavor is spiked with just a touch of smoky spice to keep it interesting.

Photo from Eat the Love

Speaking of interesting, these Salted Exotic Bourbon Blood Orange Burnt Sugar Crème Fraiche Caramel Chews from Irvin Lin of Eat the Love may have a long name, but that's because they contain a powerhouse of pleasure flavors. Blood orange, bourbon, burnt sugar, salted caramel, Tahitian vanilla bean, grains of paradise...oh no, this is not the caramel candy of your childhood. Caramels just got grown and sexy.

Photo from Kitchen Corners

For the gluten-free crowd, have no fear, Damaris Santos-Palmer from Kitchen Corners, will be whipping up gluten-free Alfajore Pops, traditional Argentinian cookies filled with homemade dulce de leche and dipped in chocolate.

Photo from Rice and Wheat

If savory is more your bag, Angi from Rice and Wheat has you covered with her delightfully cheesy looking Cheddar-Chive Scones.

Photo from Lick My Spoon

And, yours truly will be making a stunner of a Blood Orange Marmalade Tart. I learned how to make this beauty from Joyce Goldstein, who adapted it from a recipe called Crostata di Marmellata delle Suore Trappiste, served at the Vineria Cozzi in Bergamo Alta, Italy. The tart gets its interesting name because it is filled with orange marmalade made by the Trappist nuns. In this version, we use blood oranges for a stunning presentation and floral flavor, “like an orange mixed with a rose.” It is divine…really, you should buy this.

We're rolling out the pastry dough…so you can help us raise the other kind of dough.

Go. Bid. Bid High.

Follow on Twitter: #OnlineBake4Japan
sabrina modelle @thetomatotart

If there's one thing you need to eat in Spain, it's paella. And that's exactly what I planned to do once I got to Valencia during my recent trip to Europe -- eat all the paella I could get my hands on. After all, paella originated in Valencia; hence the fact that most recipes call for Valencia rice, a short-grain white rice from the same area.

Unfortunately, my trip to Valencia succumbed to the whims of the mercurial travel gods, and I ended up spending an entire week in Barcelona instead. Not one to be dissuaded from my dream meal, I was determined to have my paella anyways, even if it could only be had a few hours north of where it originated. I set about the gorgeous city of Barcelona to find the perfect place to eat, but noticed a problem right away: many different restaurants had these funny signs with ten or so photos of paella, all labeled with a brand name: Paellador. Others had a difference brand, Paella Maxima. As one who likes my food so fresh that it would almost be breathing, my foodie-tuned spidey sense went off.

After a little digging, it turns out that these are pre-fab frozen paella companies. Restaurants buy the dishes frozen, then heat up the paella to serve to customers, who think they're getting the real thing. Um, no. No. Great big capital NO. Frozen paella? In Spain? Are you kidding me?

I polled the staff of a few restaurants and eventually turned up a handful of places that served fresh paella. I ate at three or four of them, and indeed the dishes they served were freshly made with some of the finest seafood the Aegean sea has to offer. I never did try the frozen paella, and you know what? I never will. Yikes.

For those of you not currently cooling your heels in Barcelona, I recommend making paella at home. It's a very simple dish to make, and the ingredients are easy to rustle up. If you're in the East Bay or near Mill Valley, I highly recommend making the short trek down to your local Spanish Table shop, where they not only stock Iberian imported foods, but they can also school you in the magical ways of paella making and recommend a Spanish wine to pair with your meat selection. Can you say staycation?

Recipe: Paella Valenciana

By Stephanie Stiavetti

Summary:
Valencia-style paella is a simple dish that contains both shellfish and chicken. Bring a little bit of the Iberian coast to your kitchen.

Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 45 min
Total time: 1 hr
Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

• 1/4 tsp saffron threads
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 2 chicken legs
• 2 chicken wings
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 1 1/2 cups Valencia rice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper pepper
• 8 small fresh clams, scrubbed and clean
• 8 small fresh mussels, scrubbed and clean

Instructions

1. Stir saffron into chicken stock; set aside.
2. In large, wide skillet or paella pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add chicken to pan and cook until browned, 7 minutes per side. Remove to a plate.
3. Add onion and garlic to pan and cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Add stock to pan along with tomatoes and bring to boil. Scrape any browned bits from bottom of pan.
4. Stir in rice, salt and pepper. Add chicken again and simmer gently over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring only occasionally.
5. Examine shellfish to make sure they are clean. Throw away any that do not tighten closed when tapped. Nestle clams and mussels into rice until almost covered by rice and broth. Continue cooking over low heat until rice is tender and all shellfish open, about 7 to 10 minutes. Throw away any clams or mussels that do not open. Serve hot.

Culinary Tradition: Spanish

QUEST Science on the SPOT Feature produced by Jenny Oh

Eduardo Morrell monitors the internal temperature of the bread to gauge its readiness. Photo: Jenny Oh.

Since the Gold Rush days when prospectors baked loaves in their encampments, sourdough bread has been a beloved favorite of the Bay Area. But what is true sourdough bread? It's more than just the tangy flavor. Science on the SPOT visits with Maria Marco of UC Davis and baker Eduardo Morrell to learn more about the secret science of sourdough.

Producer's Notes: Secrets of Sourdough
Learn more about the history of Morrell's Bread and check out a slideshow of Eduardo Morrell's typical 16-hour workday.

Bring me your bialys, your chocolate babkas, your lox, capers, and schmears yearning to be free! It's a cliche, perhaps, to kvetch about the Bay Area's lack of decent Jewish deli food, when we can find just about everything else here from Burmese tea salad to Himalayan momos. But try telling that to a nostalgic deli-lover. An empanada is not a knish; a wonton is not a kreplach; a morning bun, however glorious, is not a slice of babka.

Yes, there are pockets here and there: Saul's in Berkeley, of course, and Miller's East Coast Deli on Polk Street in SF, a few halfway-decent bagel shops, the Russian grocery stores and bakeries on Clement Street that stock sour pickles, rye bread, farmer cheese and stuffed cabbage. But where to bask in the kibbitzing atmosphere of Manhattan's Barney Greengrass on a Saturday morning, where platters of salami-and-eggs or whitefish salad are smacked down on Formica tables? Where can we inhale a perfume like the heady aroma inside Russ and Daughters on a Friday afternoon, equal parts smoked fish and buttery-cinnamony rugalach, with a hint of onion bagel?

But the Bay Area is a land more attuned to kale and lardo than chicken liver and schmaltz. Then again, if every other ethnic cuisine, no matter how obscure, can find its niche, why not this one? So far, the success of Wise Sons Deli, Evan Bloom's and Leo Beckerman's 10-week-old pop-up restaurant, bodes well for saving the deli. Started as a popular offering at Off the Grid, Beckerman and Bloom are now setting up shop at Jackie's Cafe on every Saturday morning from 9am to 2pm, turning the marble-tabled Valencia Street spot into their own version of Langer's.

The menu is short, a mixture of specials (mushroom-and-barley soup, corned-beef knishes) and staples (schmaltz on rye, housemade corned beef and pastrami sandwiches). No egg creams or Cel-Ray tonic, just Bolyan's sodas, De La Paz coffee and Mexican Cokes. Neither Wise Son has a restaurant background (Bloom has a degree in architecture; Beckerman worked in public health) but they're learning fast. Beckerman takes the orders while Bloom and his small crew slices pastrami and assembles sandwiches in a plugged-in, makeshift semi-kitchen where a bucket of potato salad jostles against a bin of bialys near a couple of Reubens toasting on a jerry-rigged griddle.

It's not an ideal set-up (says Bloom dryly, "I'd like to be able to boil water") but somehow, everything comes out delicious: thick-cut, lavishly fatty corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on springy, caraway-flecked sour rye bread, buttressed with heaps of fresh and crunchy coleslaw and sour pickles; a yeasty-chewy toasted bialy slathered with caper cream cheese and red onions, piled lavishly with Acme smoked salmon from the Polish neighborhood of Greenpoint in Brooklyn; plates of sunny yellow noodle kugel and hunks of babka densely ribboned with chocolate and caramel. They're working hard to rehabilitate schmaltz (chicken fat); after all, why should lardo and duck fat get all the foodie love? Already, regulars are asking to have their Reubens griddled in schmaltz. "We're like In-N-Out! It's our animal style," they laugh.

All the prep work--baking the breads, brining and smoking the meats, making the kugels, and more--is done in the community kitchens at La Cocina. Working there, they share the kitchens with an international mix of small-scale entrepreneurs, many of them women from Central and South America. It makes them think of all kinds of Mission-ready mash-ups--why not a corned beef pupusa? Or a dulce de leche hamantashen? A kale knish? How about a meatless Reuben stuffed with smoked shiitake mushrooms? (These last two have already been adopted on the menu, with great success.)

"I'd say the majority of our clientele isn't Jewish," says Bloom, and doing a quick one-over of the room on a recent Saturday morning, I'd agree with him; the mix is a resolutely urban one, united in a love for corned beef. Beckerman and Bloom have plans to get bigger and better. "We'd like to be open more than just on Shabbas," jokes Beckerman, although they're certainly positioned to scoop up the after-services crowd from nearby Congregation Sha'ar Zahav. They've been pounding the pavement looking for a permanent location in the Mission for the past six months, and will be hosting a Passover Seder dinner at Coffee Bar on Tuesday, April 19th. They've also got a full Passover catering menu in place for April 18th and 19th, the first two nights of Passover. Let all who are hungry, come and eat brisket.

Wise Sons Deli, 105 Valencia at McCoppin Sts, SF. Saturday, 9am-2pm. Cash only. Phone: 415 787-DELI.
Twitter: @WiseSonsDeli

A few months ago I began leading tours for Edible Excursions (run by epicurean concierge Lisa Rogovin) around North Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto, which includes visits to the Cheeseboard Collective, photo ops in front of Chez Panisse, and the occasional celebrity sighting (or what counts as celebrity in that town--don't blink but there's Michael Lewis buying pie with one of his kids.)

Many participants ask about other tours the company offers, which I don't lead, but I realized pretty quickly I needed to know what was on the menu so I could share the details with potential repeat customers.

So I recently shadowed the Taste the Mission tour (arguable the real Ghetto Gourmet these days) and what struck me on that food store and restaurant jaunt, as we spent three hours hoofing around the 'hood, was the different business models employed by the people in the kitchens trying to survive--or even thrive--during recessionary times.

What I came away with from that afternoon (aside from an impressive food baby after hearty sampling at nine spots) is a bit of a metaphor for life--there's no right way to do it, different strategies work for different people, love what you do, work hard, and the rest will follow.

Below, a trio of approaches to ride out the recession.

Pan Dulce on display at La Victoria Bakery. Photo: Courtesy of Edible Excursions.

Adapt or die: The best example of this approach can be found at La Victoria Bakery, an anchor institution at 24th and Alabama Streets that's sold conchas for some sixty years. Fast-talking owner Jamie Maldonado figured out that simply serving Latin pastries wasn't going to cut it in today's culinary climate. These days the cafe features a line of sweet treats from Wholesome Bakery, which turns out vegan cakes, cookies, and pies. Maldonado rents out kitchen space to Mission fixtures such as Iso Rabins of forageSF, and Danny Gabriner of Sour Flour, both of whom were at the cafe during our tour. And the cafe now hosts pop-up dinners by popular street-food chefs like Hapa SF and Soul Cocina.

Top left: Natalie Galatzer of Bike Basket Pies. Photo: Daniel Laing. Top right: Karen Heisler and crew from Mission Pie. Photo: Anne Hamersky.
Bottom left: Mission Minis sweet treats. Photo: Serena Bartlett. Bottom right: Manny Gimenez of Mr. Pollo. Photo: Serena Bartlett.

Start Small: This category includes many relatively new arrivals to the Mission District, such as bite-sized cupcakery Mission Minis, seasonal sweet and savory pastries from Bike Basket Pies, and the in-demand arepas from Manny Torres Gimenez of Mr. Pollo.

Consider, too, Mission Pie, which began as a slip of a store serving sweet tarts and took over the space next door when it became available at the busy intersection of Mission and 25th Streets. Store co-owner Karen Heisler says that the organic way the business grew made sense in terms of their overall business plan. "We wanted to make sure the community wanted us and responded to what we do," says Heisler, who sells affordable, sustainable savory and sweet eats made from ingredients sourced locally from places like Pie Ranch, Blue House Farm, and Good Humus Farm. Heisler says she's not interested in opening Mission Pie 2 or scaling up to sell wholesale, but wants to continue to solidify loyal relationships with consumers and vendors. (Heisler talks about her favorite local places in this previous BAB post.)

Street sign for the restaurant and bakery housed in one space. Photo: Serena Bartlett.

Diversify: Yaron Milgrom, owner of Local: Mission Eatery envisioned a village gathering place with a food focus. His business at 24th and Folsom Streets is essentially an inexpensive sandwich-soup-salad shop by day and morphs into a high-end restaurant at night. It also acts as a cookbook lending library and offers kitchen classes several times a month. Jake Des Voignes is the chef and his partner in life Shauna Des Voignes runs Knead Patisserie in the rear of the restaurant. Shauna sets up a cart in the establishment's entryway in the morning, catching commuters on the fly who nab lemon ricotta turnovers or brioche apple rolls on their way to BART.

Who makes it in the fickle food biz in the continually evolving Mission District remains to be seen. But the economic models employed here may well be instructive--as these food folks create community around good grub.

What other innovative approaches to selling food have you come across in the Mission or elsewhere in your travels?

Chef David Bazirgan. Photo: Meigan Canfield

Don’t let David Bazirgan’s “America’s Hottest Chef” crown--from Eater readers--keep you from noticing his considerable kitchen prowess (and uni flan) as Executive Chef at Fifth Floor Restaurant in San Francisco. The Massachusetts native trained at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. As a young chef, he spent line cook time at Olives Restaurant (helmed by Todd English, who has his own history of being considered a hot chef) as well as Boston’s Number 9, a James Beard awarded restaurant headed up by Bazirgan’s mentor, Barbara Lynch.

In 2005, Bazirgan won a StarChefs' Rising Star as Baraka’s (in Potrero Hill) Chef. Bazirgan worked in the Bay Area at Elisabeth Daniel in 2003 before working with restaurateur Jocelyn Bulow at Baraka, where he turned out food that showed proper French technique, with Moroccan and Spanish influences. The San Francisco Chronicle gave Baraka three stars in 2005, and “Baz” nailed the publication’s Rising Star Chef Award the same year. In 2008, Bazirgan plied his culinary craft with Provencal touches at Chez Papa Resto (at Mint Plaza), which was awarded three stars by the San Francisco Chronicle. The newlywed chef lives with his wife Michele in Potrero Hill; the two have been together for over six years. Bazirgan said that because he’s been in San Francisco for over eight years, “it feels like home now.”

Where do you like to shop for food?
I love getting into the different ethnic neighborhoods and shopping there. I like seeing the different fresh produce, spices, and ingredients. I love going to Nijiya market in Japantown, Luen Sing fish market in Chinatown and the Mission Meat Market in The Mission.

Favorite food & drink spots?
I really love going to Serpentine for brunch—the chicken fried steak and eggs is great, and it’s in my neighborhood. I also really love the food and cocktail program at Aziza and am frequently there on a night off.

Favorite Mom & Pop joints?
I’m a big Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack fan—nothing quite like that place! Truly Mediterranean on 16th and Valencia is also a favorite spot—their lamb shawerma is so good!

Where do you go for date night?
Michele and I usually are busy checking out the newest spot, or visiting our friends’ restaurants: Aziza, Una Pizza Napolatena and Umi Sushi in Potrero Hill.

Guiltiest local food pleasure?
RoliRoti! Nothing beats that porchetta sandwich—which is often my breakfast on market days.

Any news on projects we should know about?
Nope! Just adjusting and staying busy at the Fifth Floor!

While he adjusts to the new(ish) restaurant gig, readers can now plot where to spot this chef who happens to hold a title that includes the word “hot.”

Chef David Bazirgan. Photo: Meigan Canfield

Sol Food has become a San Rafael culinary treasure. If you mention eating out in Marin, it's bound to come up. In my circles, anyway. There are many reasons for this: incredible Puerto Rican beans, salads, plantains, local meats, housemade hot sauce and limeade. I could go on. Sol Food is also open late which is a rarity in Marin. So not that I needed convincing, but I was excited to check out La Bodega, their new little annex right next door that boasts a seamless take-out and pick-up service along with a few special items you won't find at the other two locations. Currently, they're renovating their larger corner spot, so the pick-up annex is handling a lot of spill-over. There are lines, there is bustle, but they're all handling it remarkably well.

Market items at La Bodega

The first difference you'll notice upon walking into La Bodega is the little display of grocery items you can purchase: hot sauce, interesting olives, beans, and plantain chips. They also have their normal selection of beverages, including coconut waters, Fizzie Lizzie's and a few sodas.

Beverages at La Bodega

But one of the reasons to sneak into the new annex now is for the whole free-range roasted chicken or ribs that you can't get at the other locations. According to a few of the servers, they're going to continue to do a few distinct dishes at their new mid-block location to draw in more folks who might go to the reliable corner spot instead.

Menus at La Bodega

So when it comes right down to it:

The upside: Quick. Same, reliable (and lovable) menu.
The downside: No seating; lines.

La Bodega
Address: Map
903 Lincoln Ave
San Rafael, CA 94901
Phone: (415) 451-4765
Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 8am-12pm; Fri. 8am-2am

Huh. Cauliflower. Who knew it could be so delicious?

The first time I went to the Berkeley Bowl, I remember marveling at the array of orange cauliflower (which contains 25 times the Vitamin A of white varieties; the color is from the massive quantities of beta-carotene in the veggie) and purple cauliflower (whose shocking violet color is caused by the antioxidant anthocyanin, also found in blueberries, red cabbage, and red wine) on display.

Apparently, yes, you can have your vegetables in carnival colors. I still went home with the plain Jane white variety that evening -- I dunno, maybe the kaleidoscope cauliflower was just too jarring for me. It's been awhile since I last bought a head of cauliflower. My renewed interest in it came about after a lovely Italian meal.

Did you ever notice how Italians just have a way with making simple vegetables taste so darn good? It's the Grade A olive oil they use. That, and invoking la bella vita into their kitchens, no doubt. This particular contorno of cavolfiori was robust and full of flavor. Florets of cauliflower were roasted with sweet garlic, briny anchovies, and gilded with fruity olive oil. As each little cauliflower tree disappeared into my mouth, I plotted my strategy on how to recreate this dish at home.

I started off by cutting the cauliflower in half, then separating the branches into florets. Then, I melted down the anchovies in a skillet, stirring them until a paste formed. My husband is obsessed with all things anchovy (and all things salty for that matter), so I've been buying in bulk these little tins of Italian anchovies packed in olive oil.

Next, I add the smashed garlic to the pan, lemon juice, and the cauliflower, tossing it all together so that the anchovy "sauce" coats all the florets. A sprinkle of panko crumbs, a drizzle of olive oil, and into the oven it all goes.

The dish is done when the cauliflower is fork-tender and the panko has turned a crunchy golden brown. Top with grated parmigiano, salt and pepper, and you've got yourself one mighty fine side dish. No peacock colors necessary. The bang is all in the taste.

Recipe: Roasted Cauliflower with Garlic and Anchovies

Summary:
Cauliflower makes a simple and satisfying side dish, roasted with sweet garlic, briny anchovies, and gilded with fruity olive oil.

Prep time: 10 min
Cook time: 40 min
Total time: 50 min
Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

• 1 head of cauliflower
• 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and smashed
• juice of 1/2 lemon
• 2 oz container of anchovies packed in oil
• 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1/4 cup parmigiano
• 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 450 F.
2. Cut cauliflower into florets and rinse thoroughly.
3. In a large pan/cast iron skillet over medium high heat, add the anchovies and the oil they're packed in. Melt down the anchovies down, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it forms a paste. Add garlic. Saute for a few minutes (don't let garlic get too dark). Add lemon juice and cauliflower to the pan and toss to coat.
4. Place in a baking dish large enough so that the florets form one layer. Sprinkle with freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle panko crumbs on top. Drizzle with olive oil. (If you're using a cast iron skillet, you can just leave everything in there and pop the whole skillet into the oven).
5. Bake 30-35 minutes, giving everything a good stir about halfway through the baking time, until cauliflower is fork-tender and panko has turned golden brown. Remove from oven, sprinkle with parmigiano, salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

The market's grand exterior, on a side street just off La Rambla.

In the heart of Barcelona, Spain, there is a road called Rambla dells Caputxins, or La Rambla for short. Teeming with life, La Rambla is a wide, busy road that is partially blocked off for pedestrian traffic. You can buy all sorts of things along this street: flowers, crepes, postcards, newspapers, hamsters, and a steaming hot pan of paella. But perhaps the most interesting part of La Rambla is Mercat de La Boqueria, Barcelona's famous open food market.

Ferran Adrià, chef of Spain's famous elBulli, called the mercat "A temple of gastronomy,' if that gives you any idea of what a culinary wonderland this place its. While you can buy all sorts of interesting things on La Rambla, within the huge hangar-like structure of Mercat de La Boqueria you'll find an incredible selection of Spanish fare. Fruit and produce are just a small portion of what's available; there are rows upon rows of incredibly fresh seafood, cured meats, freshly-foraged mushrooms, and delectable handmade sweets.

The variety and freshness of the foods in the Mercat de La Boqueria can be overwhelming for even the most experienced foodie -- one could easily spend four or five hours roaming the stalls, deciding what to eat or prepare for dinner. My first visit took me about three hours, and I finally left because, being on vacation, I couldn't bear the thought of not having a place to prepare any of the wonderful things I was seeing. My second (and third!) trip to the market also took hours. Really, there is so much to see, smell, and taste.

This is one of those situations where pictures speaks much louder than words, so I'll just show you the loveliness of it all. Be prepared for the urge to book the next one-way ticket to Spain.

A forest of cured meats! Hallelujah!

Fruit salad "La Macedonia." Many vendors sell these salads for a quick, healthy, on-the-go lunch.

Fruity smoothies make a great snack. A rainbow of flavors are available.

The selection of seafood is unimaginable.

A food porn shot for the mushroom lover in all of us.

More seafood, still alive and kicking.

A huge selection of sweets are available for a huge selection of vendors. It's a sugar-lovers paradise in here.

More sweets to tempt your sweet tooth.

I loved these silver pastilles. Such a bright light in the busy market.

And did I mention the produce selection? It's ungodly, really.

More fresh seafood, though clearly not alive any longer. ;)

This fresh conejo might offend even the staunch carnivore, but that doesn't make it any less tasty.

More cured meat, for the charcuterie lover (like me!).

I loved these little cupcakes. They were only .50 euros each -- or $0.70 US!

Seeing all of these fresh ingredients makes me wish I had a kitchen to cook in while I am here. Alas...............