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Archive for July 10th, 2006


Farm Tour: Marin Sun Farms, Part I

Monday, July 10th, 2006

Anyone who's been to the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market is probably familiar with Marin Sun Farms. Located on Point Reyes, Marin Sun Farms is responsible for bringing pasture-raised eggs, grass-finished beef, chicken, and lamb to customers in San Francisco.

Dave Evans, the owner of Marin Sun Farms, understands the importance of showing customers where the products they purchase come from. He regularly invites customers to the farm for farm tours and talks. Our tour and lunch began at the Marin Sun Farms butcher shop. Kim talked about the butcher shop on Bay Area Bites last August. Since that time, the shop was damaged by thirty inches of flood water over New Years' weekend. The flood became a forced pause in Evans' business, causing him to stop and really consider the speed with which his business was going and where he wanted to take Marin Sun Farms. The butcher shop reopened on Fourth of July weekend.

At the butcher shop, we were able to see meat that is in cold-storage, being dry-aged for tenderness and flavor before it is taken to market.

The real highlight of the trip was going to the ranch. Marin Sun Farms' home ranch is on Point Reyes. For any of you who are familiar with the area, it is the Historic H Ranch and is very close to Abbott's Lagoon. The ranches on Point Reyes have a long history with the area and are now under the purview of the National Parks Service and the Department of the Interior. The farmers who are on these ranches now are on five-year leases, which presents an infrastructure issue for the farmers who are reticent to invest in their farm if they are going to be off the land in a few years.

The Historic H Ranch has been in the Evans family for three generations and was originally purchased by Dave Evans' grandfather in 1939. Evans' parents now run the ranch, breeding and raising cows during the early part of their lives before they are sold to feedlots for finishing and introduction into the industrial agriculture system.

A majority of the beef in the United States starts out on small farm operations which have mother cows giving birth to cattle yearly. The young cows are then kept with their mothers until ten months of age when they are weaned and separated. At that point, if the cows are of the proper weight (700 - 800 pounds), they are sold to one of the three major beef operations: Iowa Beef Processors, ConAgra, or Cargill for grain finishing and to be fattened for market.

A certain amount of the Evans' cows, however, are now held back and become Marin Sun Farms cows. These lucky few are taken by Dave Evans and raised on grass and come to market as Marin Sun Farms beef. Evans leases approximately 3800 acres of grassland throughout Marin County. The cows that he raises live off the land and are grass-fed throughout their lives.

Grass feeding and finishing of cows is now being chosen by many consumers as preferable to corn finishing. Grass feeding creates a leaner product that is higher in omega-3 nutrients and it is more natural for the cow and thus requires no antibiotic regimens.

Marin Sun Farms beef is not certified organic, and Evans does not think that organic certification is his highest priority. His operation is a small one with very few people, and he believes that it is more important to provide his customers with a quality, grass-finished product than it is to spend energy getting the organic seal.

However, his beef is raised according to most organic practices: The land that the cows graze on is free of pesticides, the animals are not treated with growth hormones, and they are antibiotic-free.

Next week, I will give you a tour of the Marin Sun Farms' chicken operation.

For more information about Marin Sun Farms or grass-fed beef:

Power Steer by Michael Pollan.
The Ethicurean on the Marin Sun Farms Tour
Marin Sun Farms Website

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NYC: Coney Island!

Monday, July 10th, 2006

There is no question that it's summer in New York. I am on my yearly trip to see family and friends, eat around town and take my beloved trip to Coney Island. I have been traveling to this antique amusement park since I was too short to go on the rides.

Although Coney Island is not known for it's food, per se, there is a small "menu" I eat every year. First is a pistachio soft serve cone with colored sprinkles, second is raw clams on the half shell, and I finish with Nathan's ridged fries.

Coney Island is the only place I have ever been able to find pistachio soft serve.

This year I was in a bit of a rush so I missed eating clams and fries, but I found a new food. The Coney Island Shortcake sells home-made strawberry shortcakes on an edge of a bar between a fast food stand and my favorite surreal game, Shoot The Freak. Graphic designers by trade Kalene and Dan, the creators of Coney Island Shortcake, didn't want to spend another summer at home in front of their computers. Both lovers of the amusement park, they built a white rolling stand, painted 3D wooden signs, contracted out shortake making to an Italian baker in Brooklyn, slice strawberries fresh every day and attach a nitrous jet to a canister with fresh cream for the simple three ingredient dessert.

I always stop at the Coney Island Museum as I was, for many years, a proud Coney-O-Phile, and as well a dedicated Mermaid Day Parade goer, sponsored by the Coney Island Hysterical Society. The museum is a small, mostly volunteer run organization. With a new Coney Island revitalization on the horizon, the hope is that those of us who feel strongly about keeping intact the soul of this quirky place will support the cause.

Newly sparked interest in the history of Coney Island has brought a number of artists in to re-invigorate some of the old marquees. If you can tear your eyes away from the dizzying sights, sounds and smells of what's before you, and look up, you will find some wondrous examples of nuevo Astroland inspired paintings, whimsical and well crafted.

Even the subway station, home to more than four lines, has been given a make-over.

If you're like me and you love a day of overwhelming sensory overload, can shamelessly consume deliciousness which might not be food, feel like you're on acid even if you're sober, give yourself the permission to talk to strangers, ride the last wooden, non-electric rollercoaster in the country, wander aimelessly and visit childhood memories, then you'll love Coney Island.


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