When I first started cooking with the seasons, I had to make some transitions in the way that I cooked. Before this time, I would find a recipe that I wanted to make, and then would go to the supermarket to find each ingredient. Nevermind that it was the dead of winter and I was looking for zucchini, the market provided exactly what I needed.

Once I started going to the farmers' market on a regular basis, I found I wasn't always finding what I needed. "Do you have cilantro?" I'd ask. "Not in season," the farmer would tell me. Nevermind that I had to have cilantro for the dish I was creating. I was faced with a problem: I could either ditch the idea of eating seasonally and run to Albertson's for cilantro from a far away place or I could adapt the way that I cooked to match what was available at the farmers' market.

These days, cooking is a much different proposition. I often have less control over what vegetables are in my household, and I rarely walk out of the house with a recipe that is hard and fast. Most vegetables come to me through the CSA we belong to, and with that, we have no control over what comes to us. Any other items I supplement come from the farmers' market but I often go with nothing in mind and return with whatever looked best that day.

At home, I have collected a bookshelf of reference books to guide me whenever I have a foreign fruit or vegetable. Before this year, for instance, I had never cooked with a rutabaga. It showed up in my CSA box with a few suggestions, but I wanted to know more.

My first reference for what to do with vegetables is usually Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini by Elizabeth Schneider. Schneider shows a photo of the vegetable, and then a lengthy description. From her book we find out the rutabagas came to the United States in the 19th century, and that you can have success cooking rutabagas in any way aside from the way that most people cook them: boiled for a very long time. Schneider then outlines basic uses for the rutabaga in a general manner: you can julienne it and serve it raw, marinate it in salads, or steam it until al dente among many other suggestions. From the "selection" section we learn that we want our rutabagas to be relatively heavy as that implies juiciness.

The last section of each entry is the one that I often read first. In an area called "Pros Purpose," Schneider asks lots of industry professionals what they do with rutabagas in their kitchen. This section does not have specific recipes, but usually has short blurbs from many chefs generally describing dishes in their kitchens featuring the vegetable.

When I first mentioned buying The Victory Garden Cookbook last summer, fellow BAB writer Amy Sherman commented "You will LOVE the Victory Garden Cookbook, mine is falling to shreds...". Marian Morash first published the Victory Garden Cookbook in 1982, and I remember it well from growing up. To this day, my mom uses Morash's scalloped potatoes recipe from this book. The Victory Garden Cookbook combines growing information about specific vegetables with preparation methods and general information for those of us who don't grow our own food.

In Morash's section about rutabagas, we learn some additional tidbits about rutabagas. They can be stored for a couple months if unwashed and stored in a container of dry sand, sawdust or peat. Another option for storage is to freeze mashed or pureed rutabagas. In her many recipes, there is a delicious-sounding Shinbone Soup with Turnip and Rutabaga made with beef shinbones, and even a sweet rutabaga pie, as she says that root vegetables make "wholesome yet delicate pies."

When Heidi talked about The Organic Cook's Bible on her site about a month ago, my first response was suspicion. I am generally wary of books that are targeted at "organic" cooks, as I feel that someone using organic ingredients can use any recipe available, and that it is a marketing ploy to make people buying organic foods think that they need to find books aimed at them. One look at this book, however, and I knew that I had to have it.

Jeff Cox's 500-page tome is organized into sections describing "Vegetables", "Fruits", "Nuts, Seeds, Beans & Grains", "Herbs and Spices", and "Meats, Dairy & Eggs". The layout for each entry is well-organized and easily understandable. After spending just three weeks with this book, I am already finding it to be an invaluable reference. The entries are succinct, but give the reader a lot of information about each fruit and vegetable.

From the rutabaga entry, we discover that some rutabagas are grown for their seeds and commercially become canola oil. Cox explains the season that rutabagas are available (fall and winter) and has a lengthy description about uses. His approach seems to be very much that of a consumer who has used most of these fruits and vegetables in his home kitchen, though he is well qualified by having been and editor of Organic Gardening for many years, as well as hosting Your Organic Garden for public television.

If you are a seasonal cook like me, any of these books would be an invaluable addition to your library.

After seven, yes SEVEN, months of winter, summer has finally arrived. At least I think it has. It's been glorious with bright blue skies and a bone-warming sun for the past week. We'll see how long it lasts.... So another reason, along with 3 Bay Area friends in town, to have a dinner party and welcome in the new season. I'm cheating here as I am posting the menu and a recipe before then I will post the pictures on Sunday after the dinner so please check back for the visuals.

So now that summer has snuck in, all of Paris is outside soaking up the fleeting warmth. The parks are full and cafes are overflowing into the streets. I walked through the Palais Royal a few times over the past week and it too was full of smiling people, sketching artists, lounging dogs, and harried tour guides.

So back to the dinner... Rather than having traditional flower centerpieces, I love to decorate my table with the most gorgeous, vibrant food I can find. The peppers were so beautiful at the market that I decided to make the centerpiece simply a plate stacked with beautiful bell peppers, and a white eggplant flanked by a few flowers. I saved the big bouquets for the mantle.

Bonjour l'Ete! Hello Summer!
10 Juin 2006
Chez Laura

Champagne Aperitif avec Framboises
* Ruinart Brut de Rheims

Poivrons Roti Farci de Ratatouille et Couscous avec Chevre - Peppers stuffed with Ratatouille and Couscous with Goat Cheese
* Beaune du Chateau Premier Cru 2002, Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils

Bar de Ligne Roti Entier avec Fenouil et Caviar Beurre Blanc - Whole Roasted Sea Bass with Fennel in a Caviar White Butter Sauce
* Meursault Genevrieres Premier Cru 2001, Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils

Assiette des Fromages - Assortment of Cheeses: Blue Cheese from Gex, Comte from the Alps and Cumin Tomme
* Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Les Vercots, Domaine Hippolyte Thevenot

Zabaglione de Marsala avec Framboises et Myrtilles - Marsala Zabaglione with Raspberries and Blueberries
* Vougeot Premier Cru 2000, Clos de la Perriere, Monopole

Mignardises de Patisserie Pinaud - Small Chocolates from Pastry Chef Pascal Pinaud

...so wish me luck, I'm going to need it!

Caviar Beurre Blanc - adapted from Julia Child

1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tbsp shallots, finally chopped
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper
10 oz unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes
salt, pepper, lemon juice
1 small can caviar

1. Boil vinegar, lemon juice, shallots, salt, pepper until reduced to 1.5 tbsps. Remove from heat

2. Immediately beat in 1/2 the butter until it forms a creamy paste.

3. Set over low heat and continue beating in 1 oz of butter at a time adding the butter only when the previous piece is fully incorporated.

4. Remove from heat and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice as needed.

5. Gently stir in caviar and serve immediately.

Bon Appetit!

How does one drive to Los Angeles and still keep their sanity? By driving on Highway 101 and stopping at small independent eateries the entire trip there. On Tuesday, I covered the drive north from Los Angeles to Pismo Beach. Today, I have three favorite places between Pismo Beach and San Francisco.

GOOD OL' BURGERS
1145 24th Street
Paso Robles, CA
805-238-0655

If you have by chance been to Good Ol' Burgers in the past, you will do a double-take when arriving at the newly rebuilt store. The old establishment was a small shack in a parking lot right off 101. Recently, it seems that the shack was torn down and a small strip mall was built instead -- complete with a drive-through Starbuck's. Luckily, however, Good Ol' Burgers still exists, and still makes great burgers. "Order Up!" you'll hear when your burger and fries are ready -- each burger is made to order. The fries are delicious as well, and the burger and fries make a great on-the-road meal.

COFFEE STATION
1199 Mission Street
San Miguel, CA
805-467-2100

My boyfriend is a photographer when he is not working at his day job, and he has recently become enamored of a small town north of Paso Robles called San Miguel. It's a very small, mostly rundown town that has a lot of old buildings that he is having fun shooting. Luckily for me, San Miguel is home to a small coffee shop called Coffee Station. It's a perfect place to sit and read a book while Jason is off taking photos. The service is friendly, and the proprietors sell several sweet and savory items in addition to coffee drinks.

FALAFEL'S DRIVE IN
2301 Stevens Creek Blvd
San Jose, CA
408-294-7886

I originally heard of Falafel's Drive In from Chowhound. Posts to Chowhound raved about their delicious falafels and great banana shakes. This small store has been in existence in San Jose for nearly forty years. The line is often long, but moves quickly. It is near the 880 freeway, and is a perfect stop for your road trip. The Middle Eastern menu featuring falafel, gyros, kufta kebab and other delicious items is great for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. And make sure to save room for a banana shake!

I grew up in Southern California and both my family and Jason's family still live there. So, I am often down south for birthdays, get-togethers, weddings, or other events. Though I usually fly, we end up driving a few times a year. Jason and I have gotten into a rhythm of driving on Highway 101 instead of Highway 5. I know that some of you out there can't imagine taking the few extra hours to drive on a slower highway, but we find that we arrive at our destination happier, and that there are a lot of fun places to stop on 101 that you won't find on 5.

When in San Francisco, I rarely eat at chain restaurants and always search out the small mom and pop establishments. I have been attempting to do the same on my trips, as I find there are small, great establishments in most places. When looking for ideal places to stop while on a road trip, I look for:

1. Locations allow me to get on and off the freeway with relative ease.
2. Locations that are open long hours, and between meals.
3. Locations that provide quick, excellent service.
4. Clean and convenient bathrooms are a must.
5. The location must have great food and beverage.

What follows is a list of my favorite places to stop. Today, I will cover the drive from Southern California to Pismo Beach. On Thursday, you can return to this site to read about the drive from Pismo Beach to San Francisco.

BENT ON COFFEE
140 W Hillcrest Dr, Ste 121
Thousand Oaks, CA
805-379-2402

I have noticed a lot of changes to the coffee scene on Highway 101 in the past few years. Even the small towns have a chain coffee place, and when you are on the road travelling, it is easy to pop into a Starbuck's because they are conveniently located and open longer hours than the small town restaurants. But for those of us who really try and frequent smaller coffee places, finding independent coffee establishments can become an exercise in frustration. I have specific independent coffee stands that I frequent during the drive, and Bent on Coffee in Thousand Oaks is the first. The employees at Bent on Coffee are friendly, and the coffee is good. The store roasts their own beans daily, and the resultant cup is rich and strong.

TAQUERIA EL BAJIO
129 N. Milpas Street
Santa Barbara, CA
805-884-1828
CASH ONLY

I have a secret to admit. I have never been to the famous La Super Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara. Every time I try and go, the line is long and I am too impatient to wait. Long lines are not justifiable when on a long road trip, so I have looked around in the same area for other good Mexican restaurants. The best I have found is Taqueria El Bajio. The restaurant has a large menu, and everything that I have tried there has been very good. Above, you see their sope adobada which is handmade and large. The parking for Taqueria El Bajio is easy, service is quick, and the outdoor seating allows you to take in some sun before continuing on your trip.

Taqueria El Bajio is open for breakfast -- opening at 6 am every morning and staying open through the evening. They are closed Mondays.

FIRESTONE BREWERY
620 McMurray Rd
Buellton, CA
805-686-1557

1400 Ramada Drive
Paso Robles, CA
805-238-2556

A fun stop along the way is at one of Firestone Brewery's two taprooms. There, you can pick up a growler of one of their beers to take home and enjoy, or you have a pint there along with some snacks. The southern taproom in Buellton has a recent addition of a rather large restaurant. The chef is serving seasonal and local ingredients, and the menu looks interesting. However, I have not had the chance to eat there yet.

VILLAGE CAFE
112 W Branch Street
Arroyo Grande, CA
805-473-1655

The small town of Arroyo Grande is located approximately five miles south of Pismo Beach. The residents have preserved a small old-town that is a good stop along the drive. You can stop in at the Village Cafe, which serves breakfast all day, including and excellent homemade corned beef hash, and very good biscuits. The service is friendly and efficient, and you can get back on the road with your stomach full in no time. If you need a coffee refill, try Cafe Andreini right down the street at 131 East Branch Street.

STEAMING BEAN
1651 Shell Beach Rd
Pismo Beach, CA
805-773-2222

I have stopped at the Steaming Bean for years and years. The coffee shop is located on a street that parallels 101 and it's an easy stop-off to refill your coffee. They have recently remodeled to add more seating, the coffee is good, and the service is fairly quick. They serve some baked goods and I believe they often offer a soup of the day.

On Thursday, I will cover the rest of the road trip from Pismo Beach north to San Francisco.

For all of you who might have wanted to know about my last class before it happened I am here to announce my second class, Understanding Pate Choux.

Pate choux literally translated means cabbage dough, or cabbage look-alike dough. Sounds better in French. It is the pastry Americans know as eclair or cream puffs. And it's, hands down, one of the most versatile doughs in the European baking tradition. A twice-cooked recipe with enigmatic directions, pate choux can be a kitchen conundrum forever without a few specific tricks.

It helps that I have baked thousands upon thousands of these little cabbage puffs. At Bouchon the profiteroles were my most popular dessert and there were 3 to an order. My weekly math went something like this: our 80+ seat restaurant served approximately 300+ diners 7 days a week 11:30 am - 2 am straight through. Dessert sales were at about 70-85%.

Like the pretty photo of the gougeres in The French Laundry Cookbook? I made those. And I made them in a "still oven;" much like the one you have at home.

Teaching, like cooking and baking, is part craft, passion, inspiration, patience, empathy, listening skills and intuition. Most chefs I've worked for have not been incredible teachers. Self admittedly they do not have the patience for it. The cooks who took the time to explain technique or the whys and hows of a particular recipe are those I channel when I teach. Because I did not go to culinary school I had to hone my watching and practicing skills sharper than I honed my knives. Maybe because I learned everything on the line, literally, I remember the moments in time and with whom I experienced learning epiphanies with.

As a floundering "B" position garde manger cook at LuLu almost 14 years ago I ate my first fresh fig, put thinly sliced raw artichokes in my mouth, dodged flying plates from an angry chef, was purposely burned for the first time by a fellow line cook and jokingly surprised by fresh mango sprinkled with cayenne, tasted lavendar ice cream, shucked oysters and learned that every sous chef has a different idea of what enough salt is.

With as many cooking shows as are on TV these days, cooking and baking, as with all crafts, are best learned though hands-on classes. One on one with chefs who understand what they are choosing to teach backwards and forwards. An actual person standing there to watch, correct and encourage what your hands are learning or feeling awkward with. Being inside a kitchen, standing over a hot stove, watching with wonder how eggs added to flour, water and butter can become a delicate airy eggy puff, a crunchy-creamy doughnut, rich gnocchi. Eating an afternoon's hard work and taking home a recipe one intimately understands with hands and mouth and mind.

This is the teaching I do. I explain the whys not merely the hows. I am better than a cookbook, more responsive than a TV show, and I have inspired and encouraged fellow bakers and novices equally.

Although my classes come about organically I am hoping to teach one per month. Want to learn a particular something? Let me know, if there's enough demand and interest, you may well design July's class. I hope to see you soon!

Understanding Pate Choux
Sunday June 11 1-3:30 PM
Berkeley, CA
$68

You may pay via PayPal or email me directly if you would like to send a check.

Like Kim, I've had a busy few weeks. And by "busy," I mean decadent. Strange, isn't it, that with so much eating out I've had no time to blog? Something wrong there, considering I'm supposed to be blogging about eating.

A few weeks ago, we spent the weekend in Inverness. It was foggy, a little rainy, and gorgeous. On Friday night we ate at Manka's Inverness Lodge, which has long been on my agenda.

The menu is rather precious even by Bay Area standards.

(I have no idea why it's purple -- that happened somewhere between scanner and Photoshop. I have no patience for technical peccadilloes.)

We got off to a good start with these little gougeres stuffed with Romaine and anchovies -- a tangy Caesar sandwich. And, of course, Champagne.

Leek soup

The crab was delicious, roasted with smoky paprika. It was served with a bearnaise sauce (the menu said it was to be "plated with a daze of Meyer lemons," but apparently there had been a mixup; no Meyers).

Goat's milk cheese puff. I love watercress.

The meat course was lovely; in addition to the grilled lamb, we were served, family-style, the most smoky-delicious tender ribs.

Finally, dessert. The mascarpone ice cream was so light, so creamy.

I have no photos of the restaurant -- though take a look at these pretty plates. (Chargers? Is that what they're called?)

It would be the ultimate decadence to actually stay at the lodge, perhaps in one of the water-side cabins. If they treat their lodge guests as well as they treat their restaurant guests, I think it would be worth it.

Manka's Inverness Lodge
30 Callender Way, Inverness
(415) 669-1034
Mon-Sat, 7-10pm; Sun, 4-10pm
Major credit cards accepted.

posted by Davina Baum

My friend James, a fellow Silicon Valley refugee who moved to Berlin to follow his artistic dream, was in town and the thermometer was actually creeping above 60 degrees so why not re-celebrate spring, or celebrate the 2nd nice day of the year along with my friend's visit than a little dinner party. I have yet to do anything "little" but am working on it.

James and I met 12 years ago when we were both sent to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia by our Huge Software Company to work on a conference there. When one is on the other side of the world, working grueling hours, and trying to accomplish things with people who will tell you they will do something even if they have no intention of doing it, you develop special bonds that are near unbreakable. Such was our serendipitous meeting. It was also the same trip where I met my ex-fiance, a South African cricket player, which wasn't so serendipitous (note the "ex") however that's another story that requires copious amounts of martinis, but I digress...

So James was in town and off to the market I went. It was a beautiful spring day with a bright blue sky and I wanted everything to be bright. Bright colors, bright food, bright table. So a bright spring salad and a very bright pink risotto courtesy of a roasted beet followed by a bright, tangy blood orange-lemon curd. Mission accomplished. Bon appetit!

Bienvenue au Printemps...Encore!
Chez Laura

Champagne Aperitif, Bellinis et Kir Royals
-Veuve Cliquot Brut

Salade des Fenouils, Oranges Sanguine, Radis et Oignon Rouge avec Vinaigrette de Framboise
-Vielles Vignes 2004 Chablis

Bar de Ligne en Papillote sur Risotto Champagne de Betterave
-Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits 2004

Tarte au Orange-Sanguine et Citron De-construire
Mignardises des chocolates et petits tartes de Patisserie Pinaud
-Cafe, The et Liqueur

Recipe for Poisson en Papillote

this fish recipe (fish in paper) is the easiest recipe you'll ever find. take a piece of fish and lay it on a long piece of foil. rub a little olive oil on both sides, a little sea salt, some fresh ground pepper and sprinkle a few herbs such as tarragon, thyme or dill.

cover the fish with a layer of thinly sliced lemons

add about a quarter-cup of white wine (or champagne) and a handful of cherry tomatoes. pull up the ends of the foil and seal like a pouch so that the fish steams in the liquid. cook for about 20 minutes in a 400 degree oven.

i usually serve this over a bed of risotto so scoop some risotto in a low shallow bowl. unwrap the fish carefilly and gently place the fish on the risotto. spoon the tomatoes and juice over and around the fish.

guaranteed happy campers!

Yes. I know. I've been gone for a while. So what better way to return than with the recent 14-course Pig Dinner hosted by Manresa last Tuesday evening. Actually it kicked off one of the most decadent food weeks of my life, which I may tell you about someday, but let's start with all things piggy.

Manresa's chef de cuisine, Jeremy Fox, has a way with the pig. Having staged with one of my culinary heroes, Fergus Henderson, at his London restaurant St. John, Jeremy's interests and talents have blossomed into expertise. He makes me like parts I didn't think I would ever truly enjoy. And alongside Jeremy was Manresa pastry chef Deanie Hickox, who can make pastry submit to her every whim. Deanie is equally at home with a fresh peach souffle as she is with her stunning black olive madeleines. And she certainly delivered on this night (I was wondering how she would incorporate pig into the sweet courses. She did not disappoint).

Here's the menu. Read it and weep.

First course. 8:09 p.m.
Saucisson Sec. Three kinds of thinly sliced saucisson: fennel (hands-down my fave), black pepper, and red pepper. Served alongside crunchy French radishes with creamy butter and sea salt.

Second course. 8:18 p.m.
Bacon. House-cured bacon with soft potato, green garlic, creme fraiche, and a pile of shredded local cheddar. Served straight up in a martini glass with the crispiest fried potato skin you ever did munch.

Third course. 8:31 p.m.
Tortino di ciccioli. A stuffed pig's ear served atop bacon brioche with fresh strawberry jam. That's right. Bacon brioche.

Fourth course. 8:46 p.m.
Tripe. Who wouldn't love tripe that's been chopped up and served in a fried hush puppy? Hmmm? Hmmm? oh, the best part: pork fat mayonnaise.

*Side note: We are not even a third of the way through the dinner. I realized we must be in Rome.

Fifth course. 9:02 p.m.
Lardo. Cured fat. Served with crunchy, vinegary celery, carrot, and fennel. Drizzled with honey. Refreshing.

Sixth course. 9:14 p.m.
Lomo. Thin-sliced, dry-cured pork loin draped over a wedge of many-layered crepe, shards of manchego, and a smattering of fresh peas. I could have eaten that all day.

Seventh course. 9:27 p.m.
Tongue. I've never eaten tongue before, can you believe it? Thin, thin, oh-so-paper-thin slices of the tongue. Perched on caprese salad of milk skin and tomato with a drizzle of aged balsamic. It melts in your mouth.

*Side note: Just reached the halfway point. I'm starting to slump in my chair. Must remember to sit up.

Eighth course. 9:38 p.m.
Trotters. Feet, people. Shredded feet meat. Tender little shards tucked into a glass jar, topped with a silky oh-so-illicit layer of foie gras and duck fat and served alongside roasted grape salad.

Ninth course. 9:54 p.m.
Jowl. Braised and cured guanciale, frenchified and served over sauerkraut. An ode to Alsace.

Tenth course. 10:14 p.m.
Belly. Oh how I love a brined and roasted belly. Meaty, creamy, fatty, salty. Nestled in hearty gumbo z'herbs. Hello New Orleans.

*Side note: I'm starting to not remember the details. I know it's delicious. It's incredible. What? Sure I'll have another glass of wine.

Eleventh course. 10:27 p.m.
Boudin noir. You either love it or you hate it. Or you just can't get past the fact that it is bloody rice encased in an intestine. Get over yourself, if you eat pork, eat it all and don't let anything go to waste. I'm a big fan. Bring it on.

Twelfth course. 10:45 p.m.
Leg. Jeremy's ode to his Southern heritage. Slow smoked with coca-cola BBQ sauce and smoked salt. Served with a swig of the hot-damned best sweet tea I ever did see. Or drink.

Thirteenth course. 11:00 p.m.
Pancetta. Surprise! This is the first dessert course. A thin crisp disk of pancetta capped off a quivering, creamy brown butter panna cotta. Swoon.

Last course. whew. 11:14 p.m.
Bacon butter. Okay, well, the menu actually read "Medjool date muffin" but since all the other courses listed piggy parts I couldn't help myself. Best damn muffin I ever ate with the best damn butter slathered on it.

*Side note: I feel woozy. I need to lie down. Is it the wine or the pig? I will never eat again. Well, until the next night when I'm bound for A16...

Manresa Restaurant
320 Village Lane (just off North Santa Cruz Avenue)
Los Gatos, CA 95030
408.354.4330

**A final note of confession: Yes. I know Deanie and Jeremy, they are friends of mine. However, before you give me a lashing, I have not until this very special dinner which was attended by numerous local culinary luminaries, written about Manresa. And one other thing. I realize I have no pictures. There is no excuse. So slap me.

With the closing of Devil's Slide and the crawling bumper-to-bumper traffic on 92*, what could possibly drag me down to Half Moon Bay in the middle of the working week? Well, if not for my first look at the impossibly picturesque town with atmospheric mists slinking in, then for the food at Rogue Chefs. And if not for the fabulous food at Rogue Chefs, then for the opportunity to hear Don The Rogue Chefs Wine Guy describe a glass of Burrell School Chardonnay thusly: "Take a California Chardonnay, see, and just PUMP some steroids into it!" Syrah snarfs are not pretty. They're also sorta painful -- like a nasal wine enema.

Eating at Rogue Chefs is like eating at home. If your home comes equipped with a kick-ass chef. Like many Bay Area Chefs, Kevin Koebel is all about the "farm to fork" credo. Influenced by growing up on Canadian working farms, Kevin supports and respects local farms and he works hard to maintain a direct connection between it and his ever-changing Asian-European-American menu. That's all well and good and definitely admirable, but what I enjoyed most about this particular dinner was the interaction between Kevin and his patrons. Should we start calling it, "from cook to customer"? Maybe it will catch on.

It's ridiculously easy to find good food, fabulous food, even food that could romance the pants off you after the first bite in the Bay Area. What is harder to find is a total dining experience that matches said good food. I'm sure I'm not the only one to have a close-to-perfect meal compromised by bad service or cold and impersonal treatment. In these gastronomically competitive days, chefs and restauranteurs should be looking to satisfy both stomach and heart.

To kickstart my experience, my normally shy self chose to sit at the beautiful "Chef's Table" (a long bar constructed from a single stunning piece of environmentally-ecstatic Brazilian Ipê wood), where I watched Kevin lovingly massage a piece of black cod. He felt for bones and sliced out a divot of flesh to remove the majority of them. For me, sitting at the chef's table was like being back in culinary school -- I was watching, learning, and drooling. I even felt the urge to grab a knife and jump right in. But I controlled myself.

The Chef's Table is also the place to experience the intimate interplay between Kevin and his customers. Without any preamble he calls out to the cozy dining room behind me, "So you say medium-rare, does that mean...?" "Close to walking," the customer nods. "Great," Kevin responds and -- get this -- goes over to personally turn the guy's meat. It's like being at a friend's barbeque.

Rogue Chefs' homey comfort is even more apparent when I realized the other cooks and workers were calling him "Kevin" instead of that often power-tripping, scraping-and-bowing title of "Chef!" Hey, when Harold insisted all the former Top Chefs call him "Harold" while helping him with his finale service, I knew he was destined to win. From time to time, other diners looked around at other people's plates and asked Kevin what they were having. Without missing a beat while tossing pasta and sauce, Kevin answered easily and happily. You feel warm, welcome, and completely part of the entire experience.

Not to get all Mr. Rogers on you, but when I walked away from Rogue Chefs, my heart and stomach were overflowing with good food and good feelings. Here's a taste of what I sampled that night.

The Ubiquitous Seared Ahi Tuna Beautifully Reimagined: The ruby tuna is coated in tumeric, saffron, cinnamon, sugar, and salt and served with caramelized onions, caramelized grapefruit, and wasabi. The pairing of the spices with the thin slices of caramelized grapefruit is what really spanked my psyche in this dish. That's a good thing.

Pounded pork loin wrapped in nori and prosciutto and curled around asparagus with a salad of jicama, arugula, orange, beet, and ginger. It's sushi for porkivores.

Penne with Fennel-Molasses Sausage: This is precisely the sort of dish I crave on cold winter nights (or cold San Francisco Summer nights) and it didn't disappoint.

Broiled eggplant stuffed with Harley Farms chèvre and served with Meyer lemon chard. Leaving the skin on helped maintain the structural integrity of the eggplant and the added texture was delectable.

Warm Cherries and Chard: Local Berta chard, sundried Rainier cherries, are robed in mascarpone. When I eat chard, it always falls into the "It's good for me, so I have to choke it down" family. I put it in soup to improve texture and remove bitterness. This chard didn't need that. Kevin's chardy secret? Cooked directly after being yanked out of the dirt.

This meal was comped.

Rogue Chefs Restaurant
730 Main Street
Half Moon Bay, CA 94019

Saturday: 11:30am-2:00pm (lunch)
Sunday: 11:00am-2:30pm (brunch)

*Honestly? The traffic isn't really that bad and, let's face it, if you have to sit in traffic wouldn't you rather be surrounded by cool, green forest-y splendor than be on ugly 101? Me too.